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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #243
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80-96-list-digest Tuesday, August 31 1999 Volume 03 : Number 243



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Front End
FTE 80-96 - Kill Switches
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front End
FTE 80-96 - Transmission clunk
FTE 80-96 - 4X4 Warn Hub Problem
FTE 80-96 - A rare find
Re: FTE 80-96 - Kill Switches
FTE 80-96 - Starting problem
RE: FTE 80-96 - 4X4 Warn Hub Problem
FTE 80-96 - RE: Lightnings in Car Craft?
RE: FTE 80-96 - A rare find
RE: FTE 80-96 - 1996 F150 Super Cab 4x4 Dual Exhaust system
RE: FTE 80-96 - 1996 F150 Super Cab 4x4 Dual Exhaust system
Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission clunk
RE: FTE 80-96 - Starting problem
FTE 80-96 - 4X4 Warn Hub Problem - new question
Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting problem
FTE 80-96 - Stereo

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 30 Aug 99 06:44:20 -0500
From: Todd_Johnston sony.ca
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Front End

Hi Everyone
I just have one quick question. Does anyone know
if it is possible to retro fit a 1997 F150 front end
(fenders grill hood and bumper) onto a 1988 ford Bronco.
Thanks for your help.
todd_johnston sony.ca
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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 07:57:03 -0400
From: Matt Marinak
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Kill Switches

Anyone done a kill-switch on their F150?
Reccommended wires/locations/switch types?

thx,
Matt


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 08:05:53 -0400
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front End

It won't fit dirrectly.

But then, nothing is impossible, difficult just costs more.

Matt


- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 7:44 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Front End


> Hi Everyone
> I just have one quick question. Does anyone know
> if it is possible to retro fit a 1997 F150 front end
> (fenders grill hood and bumper) onto a 1988 ford Bronco.
> Thanks for your help.
> todd_johnston sony.ca
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 08:04:44 EST
From: "James"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Transmission clunk

I've got a 89 F150 with the I6 and Mazda 5 speed transmission.
Usually when I stop at a light, I shift into neutral and release the
clutch. But lately I've noticed that when I shift back into first,
the drivetrain makes a clunk noise. After experimenting some, I
found that if I shift into 4th gear first then shift to first, there
is no clunk.

Anybody got any ideas? If my transmission is going bad, is there a
"simple" transmission swap or should I just start saving up for a
Mazda transmission rebuild?

Thanks,
James Hiers



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 06:09:10 -0700
From: "Ken Brayton"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 4X4 Warn Hub Problem

This weekend I discovered the guts of the driver's side Warn
manual hub were disintegrating. It took 3 hours, 2 broken
picks, several broken jewelers screwdrivers and too many
unkind words to my wife to finally get that stupid wire lock
ring out. There was lots of pressure pressing against it.
The wheel bearings on this side were also burned and badly
pitted. Got new hubs and new bearings and tried putting it
all back together and for the life of me, I cannot seem to
pry the axle shaft out enough or push the hub mechanism in
far enough to get the retaining C-clip on. The passengers
side went back together slick as a whistle. This side is
just not going together. I've disengaged the gears and can
turn the axle etc. There is some in/out motion but not
enough "out" to get the clip on. I did not change the
spindle bearing and seal on this side.

I have 2 questions:
1) Did the hub take out the wheel bearings or should I be
looking for another problem that might explain why all this
happened?

2) How can I get enough play in the axle to get the c-clip
on?

Thanks in advance for your help.

94 F150 XLT 4X4 5.0L manual 5-speed.
Ken Brayton
Albany, Oregon
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 06:09:12 -0700
From: "Ken Brayton"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - A rare find

There are still decent mechanics/machinists in the world!

Was told by one parts store that according to the spec book,
my front rotors were too thin to turn again. They sold me a
new set but I had to take it to a machine shop to be pressed
off/on. I dropped the stuff off to be picked up later in the
day. The machinist, Walt, whose knowledge of things
mechanical seems much more superior than many, checked the
numbers on the rotor and discovered that there was still
enough thickness on them to allow him to turn them. Which he
did. When I went to pick them up, they handed me back my
nicely turned old rotors, the unused set of new rotors,
scratched 10 bucks of my bill for the press charge, and
explained to me what had happened. I was pleasantly
surprised to find out that Walt had enough integrity and
cared enough about his customers to go that extra mile and
save me more than a few bucks. He could have easily done the
work I asked for and no one would be the wiser. My hat is
off to Walt in Albany for his excellent craftsmanship and
his commitment to integrity. May his kind multiply and fill
the earth.

Moral: Check the numbers on the hub instead of the book!
Just might save you a couple bucks.

Ken Brayton
Albany, Oregon
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 07:49:53 -0500
From: "Allen Collins"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Kill Switches

How about a simple on off switch that is hidden in you cigarette lighter?
Of course your truck is now non smoking, at least as far as you cigaretty
lighter is concerned! :{)

Al
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Marinak
To:
Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 6:57 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Kill Switches


> Anyone done a kill-switch on their F150?
> Reccommended wires/locations/switch types?
>
> thx,
> Matt
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 08:50:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Kourtney Ray de Haas
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Starting problem

Greetings.

My truck is having problems starting, even after working on it quite a
bit. I have a 1990 F-150 2WD I6. The problem originally manifested
itself in the truck's complete inability to start; when the key was turned
to the starting position, all the lights go out and nothing happens--the
lamp tests on the dashboard don't even go on, and the radio loses its
memory. I took out the starter and had it tested, and it wouldn't crank
at the machine shop, so I put in a new one. Then I tried to start, and it
still wouldn't crank, so I tried jump starting, and when I crank the key
to start, all the usual lights come on, but this time there is a weird
buzzing sound coming from the starter solenoid, like a mini-machine gun
sound. I replace the solenoid and the ignition switch, and the buzzing
sound still persists when I try to jump start, but I still can't get any
electrical activity without the help of the jumper cables. The interior
lights come on, and the radio comes on when you turn the key to Accessory
position. Any suggestions? My next idea would be to replace the battery
and neg. battery cable (the pos. cable is fairly new). The alternator is
fairly new also, so I know those things work.

Riding my bike for now,

Kourtney de Haas
Austin, Texas


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 10:43:04 -0400
From: Greg Carter
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 4X4 Warn Hub Problem

Take it all back apart, your spindle bearings/seals are probably shot as
well which let all the water in the first place. Most people overlook the
spindle bearings. You can buy the spindle bearings and seals in a kit for
about 20 bucks a side.

You'll have to remove the locking hub, rotor, then the spindle. After
taking off the spindle nuts, you'll have to separate the spindle from the
knuckle, which may require extreme force. To get mine apart (and others in
my 4x4 club) I had to place a block of wood on the spindle (just in front of
the threads) and swing at it with a large sledge hammer, you wont break the
spindle, just don't miss the wood. I had the axle assembly out of the truck
at the same time so it was a bit easier, but I as doing full over the head
swings with the hammer before the spindles broke loose. If you have an
F-350 with kingpins (not ball joints, but may work on those axles too) you
can simply hit the piece that is used to hold the calipers in place, since
it is mounted to the same knuckle studs as the spindle, a lot easier...

Be careful not to pull the axle shafts out when removing the spindles.

After you get the spindles off you have to get the bearings out, measure the
depth they are set in (mine were ~.202"), and reinstall the new bearings to
the same depth. Its a little tricky getting the spindle bearings out but
you can do it yourself, I used three long bolts positioned so that the head
of the bolts hit the side of the bearing, then a large 3/4" drive extension
was put in the middle of the three bolts to drive the bearings out. I used
the old bearings to drive the new ones in, grind down the old bearings a bit
so they wont seat when driving in the new ones.

When you place the new spindle on pack (and I mean pack) it will grease.
Then use a grease gun with a needle tip to put even more in between it and
the axle shaft after it is installed. This will help keep water out.

Also pack the rotor hub with grease (not the manual locking hub), and put
lots on the outer spindle before you put the rotor back on (have a roll of
paper towel handy!). I go through at least a small tub of grease per side.
You'll probably have to remove a bit of the grease to get the locking hub
assembly back in...Its messy but worth it. Don't over grease the locking
hub otherwise it wont work.

If you are having a hard time getting the clip on the axle after fixing up
the spindle bearings pry on the axle shaft from behind the knuckle at the
u-joint with a pry bar, it doesn't take much force and you should only have
to move it a small amount. You want to be careful not to pry it out more
than it was originally.

You may think its not worth fixing up the spindle bearings and seals but if
you don't you'll be getting water back in (especially if you off road
through water) and all the work on the hubs/bearings will be lost.

Bye.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Brayton [mailto:kwbrayton triax.com]
Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 9:09 AM
To: Ford 80-96-List-Digest
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 4X4 Warn Hub Problem


This weekend I discovered the guts of the driver's side Warn
manual hub were disintegrating. It took 3 hours, 2 broken
picks, several broken jewelers screwdrivers and too many
unkind words to my wife to finally get that stupid wire lock
ring out. There was lots of pressure pressing against it.
The wheel bearings on this side were also burned and badly
pitted. Got new hubs and new bearings and tried putting it
all back together and for the life of me, I cannot seem to
pry the axle shaft out enough or push the hub mechanism in
far enough to get the retaining C-clip on. The passengers
side went back together slick as a whistle. This side is
just not going together. I've disengaged the gears and can
turn the axle etc. There is some in/out motion but not
enough "out" to get the clip on. I did not change the
spindle bearing and seal on this side.

I have 2 questions:
1) Did the hub take out the wheel bearings or should I be
looking for another problem that might explain why all this
happened?

2) How can I get enough play in the axle to get the c-clip
on?

Thanks in advance for your help.

94 F150 XLT 4X4 5.0L manual 5-speed.
Ken Brayton
Albany, Oregon
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 09:26:11 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Lightnings in Car Craft?


Incidentally, this is the first time I can remember that Car Craft has
said anything good about a truck...
>>
I guess you didn't see the articles they have done about the 1st and 2nd
generation Lightnings.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

I guess not! Are you sure you didn't see this in Hot Rod? Do you
happen to remember the issue? This would make some good reading. I
cannot recall Car Craft ever doing a full layout on any truck, despite
their absolute focus upon front-engine rear-drive V-8 American vehicles.
If they would feature the occasional F100 hot rod or modern drag racing
truck like yours, I would consider renewing my subscription...
80-96 content: today I have to replace the headlight switch on my
'94 F150. I hate taking apart plastic dashes! Dontcha think they could
have designed the dash to just flip open for easy maintenance? You can't
even change the lightbulbs in there without tearing out the whole panel!

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150 (lights not working)
'73 F100 (engine not working)
'85 CB650SC (carbs not working)
...now we know why *I* have to keep working....entropy sux.
___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 09:16:25 -0600
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - A rare find

Ken,

I assume Walt is the name of the shop. All of my immediate family still live
in Albany, OR and I will mention it to them if they don't already know.
Fortunately Albany is still small enough to know just about everyone ;)

I gladly pay more if I was sure a shop knew what they were doing and are
honest. I would also have them do work I normally would do myself just to
know it was done right and they stood behind it. We should all reward this
kind of pride in service by spreading the word. Nothing brings in the
customers like word of mouth.

Thanks,
Scott



- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Brayton [SMTP:kwbrayton triax.com]
There are still decent mechanics/machinists in the world!

Was told by one parts store that according to the spec book,
my front rotors were too thin to turn again. They sold me a
new set but I had to take it to a machine shop to be pressed
off/on. I dropped the stuff off to be picked up later in the
day. The machinist, Walt, whose knowledge of things
mechanical seems much more superior than many, checked the
numbers on the rotor and discovered that there was still
enough thickness on them to allow him to turn them. Which he
did. When I went to pick them up, they handed me back my
nicely turned old rotors, the unused set of new rotors,
scratched 10 bucks of my bill for the press charge, and
explained to me what had happened. I was pleasantly
surprised to find out that Walt had enough integrity and
cared enough about his customers to go that extra mile and
save me more than a few bucks. He could have easily done the
work I asked for and no one would be the wiser. My hat is
off to Walt in Albany for his excellent craftsmanship and
his commitment to integrity. May his kind multiply and fill
the earth.

Moral: Check the numbers on the hub instead of the book!
Just might save you a couple bucks.

Ken Brayton
Albany, Oregon
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 11:23:25 -0400
From: Greg Carter
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 1996 F150 Super Cab 4x4 Dual Exhaust system

Here is the route I went (91 f250 5.0L), not dual but...

I installed a set of MAC headers (www.macprod.com) my self. For whatever
reason they would not mate up on the passenger side to the y-pipe and the
flange on my y-pipe had rusted a bit and when tightened instead of pulling
the pipe up to the header was just being pulled over the pipe.

So I took it to a Midas shop hoping they could heat it up a bit and bend the
y pipe to match. They claimed it was too far off (there was a 1/4 gap or
larger) and that it was too hard to get a pry bar in there.. blah blah...

So they came up with a solution...

Custom made Y-pipe with O2 sensor made from 2 1/4 pipe, to a 3" high flow
cat (with air tube fitting, 5 year warranty) to 3" Rhino (Midas performance
muffler, life time warranty) to a 3" tail pipe exiting out the side.

Now I could have just had them make up a new y-pipe for 200 bucks but I
figured why not go all out...

The sound of the Rhino muffler is great, its not loud, no real drone on the
highway. My truck actually got quieter from my stock exhaust, but it had a
cracked exhaust manifold. But the truck still has a nice performance sound
to it, but not excessive. I have a '68 Mustang with headers, loopy cam, and
glass pack mufflers and your lucky if you can hold a conversation within 20
feet of that thing (it shakes the neighbours windows :) ), the truck is 180
degrees from that and I like it.

The increase performance from the new exhaust is noticeable, but I can't
tell you about gas mileage yet. Just did it on Saturday...

Cost
Headers 229 US, 399 CND, but I got them for 329 cause they hadn't updated
their Canadian web page with new price.
Y-pipe, cat, muffler, tailpipe, install etc... 680 CND (before tax) (~460
US), I bargained a bit for that price. Also they have a muffler with a 3"
inlet with two 2 1/4" out lets, meaning you have to run two tail pipes.
This is what they first quoted me, when they charge you 100 bucks per tail
pipe you can save by going with the single 3" tail pipe, and I really don't
think you'll loose any performance.

I think the price was OK, considering the cheapest cat back system is 229
US, add a 3" cat 150 US, y-pipe ?, plus they installed it.

Bye.
FYI the guy at Midas said that MAC headers for the truck are actually the
same ones they sell for the Mustang and he has never seen a set fit right,
but I think others on this list have installed them without problems using
the stock y-pipe.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dean A. Van Peursem [mailto:cma_dvp email.msn.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 1999 11:25 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1996 F150 Super Cab 4x4 Dual Exhaust system


I am looking for recommendations of suppliers to add a dual exhaust system
to the above P/U. I am looking for increased power for pulling and improved
gas mileage when not pulling. Help?


Dean A. Van Peursem
Snohomish, WA 98290
cma_dvp email.msn.com



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 11:55:12 -0400
From: Dave Heverin
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 1996 F150 Super Cab 4x4 Dual Exhaust system

This is my story, although not a dual exhaust system.

I bought a set of OEM replacement HEDMAN HEADERS from SUMMIT RACING :
$160.00

Y-pipe replacement with a single catalytic converter: $142.00
(I ordered it from a sight I found on the internet, don't remember the URL,
search for "catalytic converters")

3" FLOWMASTER cat-back exhaust w/big block muffler.

Everything fit, sounds good, better mileage, no more cracked exhaust
manifolds!
Only problem was the coating that in on the headers. It looks like hi-temp
black paint, but is only a rust preventative to keep the pipes from
oxidizing on the shelf. It all had to be removed before they could be
painter with hi-temp header paint. My advice, if available, pay the extra
money for the factory applied hi-temp coating.

Dave
88' F150 Supercab, 1/2 ton




- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Carter [mailto:greg.carter entrust.com]
Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 11:23 AM
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 1996 F150 Super Cab 4x4 Dual Exhaust system


Here is the route I went (91 f250 5.0L), not dual but...

I installed a set of MAC headers (www.macprod.com) my self. For whatever
reason they would not mate up on the passenger side to the y-pipe and the
flange on my y-pipe had rusted a bit and when tightened instead of pulling
the pipe up to the header was just being pulled over the pipe.

So I took it to a Midas shop hoping they could heat it up a bit and bend the
y pipe to match. They claimed it was too far off (there was a 1/4 gap or
larger) and that it was too hard to get a pry bar in there.. blah blah...

So they came up with a solution...

Custom made Y-pipe with O2 sensor made from 2 1/4 pipe, to a 3" high flow
cat (with air tube fitting, 5 year warranty) to 3" Rhino (Midas performance
muffler, life time warranty) to a 3" tail pipe exiting out the side.

Now I could have just had them make up a new y-pipe for 200 bucks but I
figured why not go all out...

The sound of the Rhino muffler is great, its not loud, no real drone on the
highway. My truck actually got quieter from my stock exhaust, but it had a
cracked exhaust manifold. But the truck still has a nice performance sound
to it, but not excessive. I have a '68 Mustang with headers, loopy cam, and
glass pack mufflers and your lucky if you can hold a conversation within 20
feet of that thing (it shakes the neighbours windows :) ), the truck is 180
degrees from that and I like it.

The increase performance from the new exhaust is noticeable, but I can't
tell you about gas mileage yet. Just did it on Saturday...

Cost
Headers 229 US, 399 CND, but I got them for 329 cause they hadn't updated
their Canadian web page with new price.
Y-pipe, cat, muffler, tailpipe, install etc... 680 CND (before tax) (~460
US), I bargained a bit for that price. Also they have a muffler with a 3"
inlet with two 2 1/4" out lets, meaning you have to run two tail pipes.
This is what they first quoted me, when they charge you 100 bucks per tail
pipe you can save by going with the single 3" tail pipe, and I really don't
think you'll loose any performance.

I think the price was OK, considering the cheapest cat back system is 229
US, add a 3" cat 150 US, y-pipe ?, plus they installed it.

Bye.
FYI the guy at Midas said that MAC headers for the truck are actually the
same ones they sell for the Mustang and he has never seen a set fit right,
but I think others on this list have installed them without problems using
the stock y-pipe.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dean A. Van Peursem [mailto:cma_dvp email.msn.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 1999 11:25 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1996 F150 Super Cab 4x4 Dual Exhaust system


I am looking for recommendations of suppliers to add a dual exhaust system
to the above P/U. I am looking for increased power for pulling and improved
gas mileage when not pulling. Help?


Dean A. Van Peursem
Snohomish, WA 98290
cma_dvp email.msn.com



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 12:47:50 -0500
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission clunk

Assuming the truck is at a standstill and the output shaft is not
turning..........
The input shaft and cluster gears are still spinning (with the trans in
neutral and clutch released). When you depress the clutch the input shaft
continues to spin for a while before coming to a stop. If you select a gear
before the input shaft comes to a stop it is natural to hear a slight clunk.
Try depressing the clutch and waiting a bit longer before you shift into
gear, this should eliminate the clunk. IMHO your tranny is probably ok ;^)
Smeck,
87 F150 302 T-18
P.S. When was the last time you changed your trans oil?


- ----- Original Message -----
From: James
To:
Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 8:04 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Transmission clunk


> I've got a 89 F150 with the I6 and Mazda 5 speed transmission.
> Usually when I stop at a light, I shift into neutral and release the
> clutch. But lately I've noticed that when I shift back into first,
> the drivetrain makes a clunk noise. After experimenting some, I
> found that if I shift into 4th gear first then shift to first, there
> is no clunk.
>
> Anybody got any ideas? If my transmission is going bad, is there a
> "simple" transmission swap or should I just start saving up for a
> Mazda transmission rebuild?
>
> Thanks,
> James Hiers
>
>
>
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>


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Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 18:41:19 -0500
From: "Webdoc"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Starting problem

I had a similar problem with my 84 F150. Finally tracked it down to a loose
ground cable between the block and the firewall.
Webdoc
Email webdoc arkansas.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Kourtney Ray de Haas
Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 8:50 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Starting problem

Greetings.

My truck is having problems starting, even after working on it quite a
bit. I have a 1990 F-150 2WD I6. The problem originally manifested
itself in the truck's complete inability to start; when the key was turned
to the starting position, all the lights go out and nothing happens--the
lamp tests on the dashboard don't even go on, and the radio loses its
memory. I took out the starter and had it tested, and it wouldn't crank
at the machine shop, so I put in a new one. Then I tried to start, and it
still wouldn't crank, so I tried jump starting, and when I crank the key
to start, all the usual lights come on, but this time there is a weird
buzzing sound coming from the starter solenoid, like a mini-machine gun
sound. I replace the solenoid and the ignition switch, and the buzzing
sound still persists when I try to jump start, but I still can't get any
electrical activity without the help of the jumper cables. The interior
lights come on, and the radio comes on when you turn the key to Accessory
position. Any suggestions? My next idea would be to replace the battery
and neg. battery cable (the pos. cable is fairly new). The alternator is
fairly new also, so I know those things work.

Riding my bike for now,

Kourtney de Haas
Austin, Texas


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 18:44:08 -0700
From: "Ken Brayton"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 4X4 Warn Hub Problem - new question

I'm on the digest version of this list and tried to sign up
to receive each message but it didn't work so I'm not sure
what responses there are to my earlier question on the 4X4
hub assembly. I did receive a personal message suggesting I
change the spindle bearing on the drivers side. Just got
done pulling it (with some difficulty) and the root of my
problems revealed themselves in all their ugliness! 1/3 of
the bearings are gone, the rest are smooshed down (that's a
technical term) and impacted in there pretty bad. Closer
inspection of the spindle itself reveals quite a bit of
scoring and damage so I'll be replacing that. Besides, I
can't get the old bearing housing out at all. Seems to be
almost welded in there! Sure glad I wasn't able to put this
back together yesterday or I might not have discovered this
problem.

So here's my question and I would appreciate receiving
answers to my email at kwbrayton triax.com, if you please:
Would it be prudent to replace the shorter right axle shaft
that the spindle rides on as well as the spindle assembly?
My guess is yes, as it appears to be scored some there too.
Is this a part that can be purchased used from a salvage
yard or is this something that should be purchase new?

One last note, I've notice a lot of rust in and around these
parts. Could water damage due to a failed oil seal be at the
root of all these problems?

Thanks again for everyone's help. I hope the list gets
working again REAL SOON NOW!

Ken Brayton
Albany, Oregon
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 21:06:32 -0500
From: "Allen Collins"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting problem

You might try installing another ground cable from the block to the frame,
and or a new heavier ground from the battery.

Al
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Kourtney Ray de Haas
To:
Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 8:50 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Starting problem


> Greetings.
>
> My truck is having problems starting, even after working on it quite a
> bit. I have a 1990 F-150 2WD I6. The problem originally manifested
> itself in the truck's complete inability to start; when the key was turned
> to the starting position, all the lights go out and nothing happens--the
> lamp tests on the dashboard don't even go on, and the radio loses its
> memory. I took out the starter and had it tested, and it wouldn't crank
> at the machine shop, so I put in a new one. Then I tried to start, and it
> still wouldn't crank, so I tried jump starting, and when I crank the key
> to start, all the usual lights come on, but this time there is a weird
> buzzing sound coming from the starter solenoid, like a mini-machine gun
> sound. I replace the solenoid and the ignition switch, and the buzzing
> sound still persists when I try to jump start, but I still can't get any
> electrical activity without the help of the jumper cables. The interior
> lights come on, and the radio comes on when you turn the key to Accessory
> position. Any suggestions? My next idea would be to replace the battery
> and neg. battery cable (the pos. cable is fairly new). The alternator is....


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