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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #240
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80-96-list-digest Friday, August 27 1999 Volume 03 : Number 240



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - US-Made Floor Jacks & Stands
FTE 80-96 - Fuel sending unit
FTE 80-96 - Steering wheel
FTE 80-96 - RE: axle ratios
FTE 80-96 - 302CI performance
Re: FTE 80-96 - Steering wheel
RE: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sending unit
FTE 80-96 - 89 F250
FTE 80-96 - Up in the air
FTE 80-96 - 302CI performance
FTE 80-96 - 92 f150 4x2 4.9L performance/sway bars
FTE 80-96 - RE: Gas Tank Repair
FTE 80-96 - A Quote.
FTE 80-96 - No more Axle Code info..I know what we have!
FTE 80-96 - Re: 2WD Ground Clearance/Capability
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sending unit
Re: FTE 80-96 - 89 F250
FTE 80-96 - '89 Oil press./temp sender threads; Mazda -> ZF?
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Gas Tank Repair
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Gas Tank Repair

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:16:05 -0400
From: Almus Kenter
Subject: FTE 80-96 - US-Made Floor Jacks & Stands

``Excell'' Makes (made?) in the U.S. really nice
jack stands, engine stands and engine hoists....and
they weren't too expensive. For the engine hoist
only the hydraulic ram was imported.

They used to carry them at Sams wharehouse stores (not
recently though). Real heavy duty, excellent quality.
When I saw them I bought four jack stands (even though
I already had 4 cheap ones), engine hoist and a stand.


- -almus kenter
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 06:00:15 -0700
From: "Ken Brayton"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sending unit

Have seen several posts suggesting that the fuel sending
units are a common problem. I don't seem to be having
trouble with my fuel gauge or switching between tanks, but I
hear a very audible whine from the sending unit. Does this
indicate that the unit is heading towards a Y2K meltdown?

Ken Brayton
Albany, Oregon
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 06:14:07 -0700
From: "Ken Brayton"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Steering wheel

Went to remove my steering wheel last night to try to trace
down why my horn doesn't work. Apparently I set up my wheel
puller incorrectly and succeeded in sucking the screw
threads out of one of the screw holes you use to pull the
wheel. Dumb, I know, but can anyone suggest some ideas on
correcting this bozo mistake? My first thought is to have
someone size the hole one bold size larger and rethread it,
assuming something like that can be done?

94 F150 XLT 5.0L 4X4
Ken Brayton
Albany, Oregon
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:11:29 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: axle ratios

>>I am going to change the axel ratio of my truck, from 2.73 to a lower
>>ratio. The truck is a 91' F-150 with a a 300/I6 mated to a Mazda 5sp.
****SNIPPAGE****
>>3.55 : Able to start out "normally" in 2nd (around town / no load)?

Close, but not quite. My '94 has the same driveline as yours, with 3.55
gears. I have to use 1st for pulling away from stoplights, but it does
wind out very quickly (10-15 mph). I use 2nd for stop signs (honest,
officer, it was a ROLLING stop...) or starting on a downhill grade. This
engine is so torquey I can even start out in 3rd from a dead stop without
grinding the clutch too much (not that there is any reason to). The
300ci/3.55 gear combo is great for towing really heavy stuff, but it is
not quick off the line in any gear. What are your goals/reasons for
changing gear ratios?

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150
'73 F100
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 09:24:13 -0400
From: Dave Heverin
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 302CI performance

Hello,

I have just recently joined the Ford Truck list and was hoping to get some
opinions on my truck situation.

A couple of weeks ago I experienced a short in the ignition wiring harness
which caused the stator and the ignition module to self destruct. Not being
one to that has the knowledge to diagnose this problem I took the truck to
my local Ford dealer to solve the problem and fix it. The result was that
the truck now starts and runs. But, it runs very rough and the gas mileage
has gone from around 17MPG to 6MPG.

I had been told by another mechanic (independent) in the past that he had
moved the distributor drive gear one tooth and that made the truck run
great. More power, better mileage and it passed the state emissions tests.
Could the Ford mechanic at the dealer have been the cause of my current
performance problems? Does Ford specify a an engine timing that would cause
the engine to run so poorly?

If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
David Heverin
Baltimore, MD

88 F150, 302V8, AOD transmission
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 09:30:45 -0400
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Steering wheel

Drilling and tapping is probably your only choice. You can do it yourself,
but you need to have the correct size drill and buy a 3 or 4 flute plug tap.
Drilling and tapping is not rocket science. Drill straight, clean the hole,
put the tap in a holder, lubricate, make sure it is straight, and go slowly,
backing off a 1/4 turn after each full turn. The last previous item is to
break any cuttings and clear the threads. You should not need a lot of
force. They sell special tapping fluid, but for a one-off, you can get by
with light machine oil or even WD-40 or kerosene. I have no idea what the
original threads are in your wheel, but try not to go too much bigger, maybe
even a metric size. When you get the wheel off, make sure you clean out all
the filings really well, or the will get into places and cause all kinds of
problems with switches and bushings. A shop vac with a small tip (home made
or otherwise) should do the job. (The advantage of using kero for tapping
fluid is that it will be easier to clean later).

Mike

Ken Brayton wrote:

> Went to remove my steering wheel last night to try to trace
> down why my horn doesn't work. Apparently I set up my wheel
> puller incorrectly and succeeded in sucking the screw
> threads out of one of the screw holes you use to pull the
> wheel. Dumb, I know, but can anyone suggest some ideas on
> correcting this bozo mistake? My first thought is to have
> someone size the hole one bold size larger and rethread it,
> assuming something like that can be done?
>
> 94 F150 XLT 5.0L 4X4
> Ken Brayton
> Albany, Oregon
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton
>
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- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 10:06:20 -0400
From: "Little, Ned"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sending unit

This is the electric fuel pump. It will run for about a second when the key
is switched on and then runs continuously when the motor is running.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Brayton [mailto:kwbrayton triax.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 1999 9:00 AM
To: Ford 80-96-List-Digest
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sending unit


Have seen several posts suggesting that the fuel sending
units are a common problem. I don't seem to be having
trouble with my fuel gauge or switching between tanks, but I
hear a very audible whine from the sending unit. Does this
indicate that the unit is heading towards a Y2K meltdown?

Ken Brayton
Albany, Oregon
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 10:44:30 +0000
From: whaynes co.roanoke.va.us (Wayne Haynes)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 89 F250

I was already aware of the problems with the in tank sending units,
that was why I had not bothered to have the front one fixed. I have
a friend of mine that bought the same year model F250 new and had it
fixed 3 times while under warranty. I just don't believe in
coincidences. I am worried about all the gauges acting up at the
same time.

In response to Jim's questions:

Your oil pressure sender will also slowly fail with time and not read
as high as it used to. What does the temp gauge seem to be doing all
this time?


The oil pressure sending unit was replaced in March when I originally
had the problems with the pressure. I also installed a new temp
gauge in May because I did not trust the original one.

I can live with the problems with the fuel gauges, but I am real
concerned with the oil pressure. I am not sure if it a gauge issue
or some other type of problem.
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:51:00 -0700
From: "Gerald L. Hinkle Jr. CPA"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Up in the air

No caca? Phred, that was brilliant.

Jerry Hinkle Jr. CPA
"RULEMAKER" 94 F-350 Crew Cab 4x4
"LTS-ROK" 80 JEEP CJ-5
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 13:23:11 -0400
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 302CI performance

It sounds like it is not timed correctly. I don't know about slipping a tooth, but if it is adjustable set it somewhere between 8-12 degrees BTDC. I've been having a little problem with pinging so I've got mine cranked down to 6 degrees until I figure out what my problem is. You will get more power the closer you get to 12 degrees.

Slik

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 12:34:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Derek Whiteside
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 92 f150 4x2 4.9L performance/sway bars

Hi all:

My daily driver is a 92 F150 XLT 4x2 supercab with the 300/6 engine
and the mazda 5-speed.

I get about 15 mpg, and I'm reasonably pleased with performance.
However, I have a couple of questions:

1) The truck handles/corners like, well, like a truck. We do a lot of
mountain driving, etc, and experience a lot of body roll in the
transitions. Has anyone put F&R (anti)swaybars on their truck? Are
they worth it? Do they compromise i-beam travel, load capacity, or
anything else? JC Bolt-On has Hellwig bars for our trucks at a
reasonable price...

2) Are there any good perf mods (bolt-on or similar) for this rig? Can
I get a chip, for instance? A KN filter for my airbox, maybe? Any
other ideas? Would a hot manifold and/or a header help the factory
setup? Reccomendations?

Thanks much....

Derek Whiteside
derekw *spamremove*rocketmail.com
Corvallis, OR
92 F150 XLT Supercab
70 AMC Javelin SST
65 AMC Rambler Classic 770





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 15:54:38 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Gas Tank Repair

I use my front tank first and then last for a similar reason. Mine will
pump 5-8 gallons from rear to front with rear selected. I think there was
a recall, and it should be replaced free.
Someone will know better! I'm just too lazy/busy to find out so front first
& last cures my problem.

Jim Cannon! I can't recall ever hearing of a spun main. On dads '87 Ranger
(Yuck!) the flex plate cracked, causing a pretty scary noise. I figured
the worst also, just check it all out, I got lucky and saved my Sisters
Toyota after an overheat! And haven't we all heard that Jap Crap will break
big time under such conditions?

Good Luck to both parties!

Dave H.
Houston (Southeast/I-45), TX
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 15:57:59 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - A Quote.

Bob Deruy Wrote:

People are more violently opposed to fur than leather because it's
easier to harass rich women than motorcycle gangs.
Bob Deruy (mailto:BobXian netutah.com)

ROTFLMAO!!!!!!! That is so funny!
Just had to tell you how good I think it is!

Dave H.
Houston, TX
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 16:02:38 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - No more Axle Code info..I know what we have!

'92 = 3.55 Single Spin (Open)
'91 = 3.55 Limited Slip

Thanks for who told me what section in the manual to look! (By Email it
was)

Dave H.
Houston, TX
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 17:55:15 -0500
From: "DannyF"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 2WD Ground Clearance/Capability

Easy. Theres a lot of kits for the rear. Since you only want 1-2" you
might be able to just get the leaf spring shims and have enough
slack on the U-bolts for the lift.

Front: Check the front end places for coil sping shims(alum.
spacers that go between I-beam mounts and the bottom of the coil
spring. ~$12 ea. Does no harm to the spring using these shims.
You will not find these at your regular parts places. Usually can get
them in 1 - 2" heights.

They are great for owners who want to level out their truck and
correct that "raked" look or get some more tire clearance in front.


> Fellow Ford Listers:
>
> I own a '95 F150 with the 4.9L, 5spd Mazda, (will check rearend with
> e-mail
> from Mark). I would like to
> increase my ground clearance and increase my "off road" capability a
> little.
> I like to camp and go hunting so a little more would come in handy. I
> currently have BFG 31X10.5 ATs which have helped quit a bit. I do not
> need
> much, I understand the trucks limitations and with the South Texas terrain
> I
> normally
> am ok.
> I am thinking a 1" -2" suspension lift and changing the rear axle from
> open
> to limited slip. Has anybody done either of these on a similar truck?
> How
> were the results? Any other suggestions welcomed.
>
> I know some of you are saying, "just go get/or should have got a 4wd".
> However, I have had almost zero problems with my truck (knocking on wood),
> I
> like my truck and it only has 6 more payments.
>
> Thanks for you comments in advance,
>
> Justen Noakes


Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 18:32:58 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel sending unit

The whine you hear is probably the fuel pump in the tank. I can not think
of any way the fuel level sender can make any noise. The fuel pumps are
pretty expensive, so my advice is to run it until it fails or it is so loud
that it really bugs you. You have the other tank to run on when the first
one dies.

At 06:00 26/08/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Have seen several posts suggesting that the fuel sending
>units are a common problem. I don't seem to be having
>trouble with my fuel gauge or switching between tanks, but I
>hear a very audible whine from the sending unit. Does this
>indicate that the unit is heading towards a Y2K meltdown?
>

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 18:44:37 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 89 F250

At 10:44 26/08/99 +0000, you wrote:
>I can live with the problems with the fuel gauges, but I am real
>concerned with the oil pressure. I am not sure if it a gauge issue
>or some other type of problem.

The only way to know for sure is to put a mechanical guage on it for a few
minutes and see what it reads. Do it on a hot engine at idle and at 2000 RPM.

The following is minimum oil pressure from the shop manual for my 1980
F-series:

300 cid I-6 40-60 psi hot 2,000 RPM
302 cid V-8 40-60 psi hot 2,000 RPM
351W cid V-8 40-65 psi hot 2,000 RPM
351M cid V-8 50-75 psi hot 2,000 RPM
400 cid V-8 50-75 psi hot 2,000 RPM
460 cid V-8 40-65 psi hot 2,000 RPM

My shop manual says nothing about at idle, but I think you need at least 5
psi. That is usually the point at which an idiot light goes out. It's not
much. I'd say you are pretty safe to use these numbers as a guide for your
1989 model.



Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 17:36:38 -0700
From: Jon Miller
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '89 Oil press./temp sender threads; Mazda -> ZF?

I have a few questions in regards to an '89 F-150 4x4 with a 300 cid I-6
and everyone's favorite 5-speed :-)...

1) Do the oil pressure and coolant temperature senders use metric
threads; and if so, what size? I would like to replace the
oil-pressure-gauge-that-isn't and the forever optimistic temperature
gauge with real gauges, but still keep the original senders in place
using "T"-fittings, FWIW. I suspect the engine computer still expects
information from these senders, even though the gauges have been all but
been proven worthless, from what I've been reading so far.

2) Can the ZF 5-speed tranny used in some '89s bolt in place of the
Mazda unit this truck currently has?

Thanks in advance!

- --
Jon Miller -+- arclamp san.rr.com

From another way station somewhere along the Information Superhighway.
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 20:41:04 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Gas Tank Repair

I don't usually like to get into these "mine vs. yours" discussions, but
when without provocation you bad-mouth "jap crap", I have to tell you, I
have had a Toyota 4X4 and a Mazda 2X4, and neither ever gave me half the
problems I have had with my 94 F150, which is still under 50k miles, and
should never be evincing the problems it has had so far. (Front wheel
bearings, hub failure, I have also owned two Dodge pickups, one Chevrolet,
and one S10, which was a disgrace, and an International... None of these
showed me any particular qualities worth bragging about, except the
International, which just kept "running and running", I finally sold it to a
deer hunter. I think it is still in service. American ingenuity is
fantastic, but the big three aren't particularly known for high quality of
manufacture or long product life. Uh-oh, I know I am in trouble now.

This is not to say I don't like my F150, it is big, pretty, and comfortable
and has more power, but your so-called "jap crap" comment just isn't
accurate. Hope I haven't offended you, but I remember my little "jap crap"
pickups with a lot of fondness, and had to come to their defense.

Ed M.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Harmier
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, August 26, 1999 4:06 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Gas Tank Repair


|I use my front tank first and then last for a similar reason. Mine will
|pump 5-8 gallons from rear to front with rear selected. I think there was
|a recall, and it should be replaced free.
|Someone will know better! I'm just too lazy/busy to find out so front first
|& last cures my problem.
|
|Jim Cannon! I can't recall ever hearing of a spun main. On dads '87 Ranger
|(Yuck!) the flex plate cracked, causing a pretty scary noise. I figured
|the worst also, just check it all out, I got lucky and saved my Sisters
|Toyota after an overheat! And haven't we all heard that Jap Crap will break
|big time under such conditions?
|
|Good Luck to both parties!
|
|Dave H.
|Houston (Southeast/I-45), TX
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|

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 22:26:04 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Gas Tank Repair

Ed-
Read his original post again and you will see that Dave is quoting others
and their off the cuff jap crap comments. I believe Dave is actually
impressed with the toughness that the Toyota exhibited in surviving the
overheat and is contradicting them by example.

At 20:41 26/08/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I don't usually like to get into these "mine vs. yours" discussions, but
>when without provocation you bad-mouth "jap crap", I have to tell you, I
>have had a Toyota 4X4 and a Mazda 2X4, and neither ever gave me half the
>problems I have had with my 94 F150, which is still under 50k miles, and
>should never be evincing the problems it has had so far. (Front wheel
>bearings, hub failure, I have also owned two Dodge pickups, one Chevrolet,
>and one S10, which was a disgrace, and an International... None of these
>showed me any particular qualities worth bragging about, except the
>International, which just kept "running and running", I finally sold it to a
>deer hunter. I think it is still in service. American ingenuity is
>fantastic, but the big three aren't particularly known for high quality of
>manufacture or long product life. Uh-oh, I know I am in trouble now.
>
>This is not to say I don't like my F150, it is big, pretty, and comfortable
>and has more power, but your so-called "jap crap" comment just isn't
>accurate. Hope I haven't offended you, but I remember my little "jap crap"
>pickups with a lot of fondness, and had to come to their defense.
>
>Ed M.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Dave Harmier
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Thursday, August 26, 1999 4:06 PM
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Gas Tank Repair
>
>
>|I use my front tank first and then last for a similar reason. Mine will
>|pump 5-8 gallons from rear to front with rear selected. I think there was
>|a recall, and it should be replaced free.....

---

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