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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #234
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80-96-list-digest Saturday, August 21 1999 Volume 03 : Number 234



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 80-96 - Transmission oil cooler
FTE 80-96 - Air Pump Goes???
Re: FTE 80-96 - Air Pump Goes???
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: oil viscosity
FTE 80-96 - Test : PLease Ignore
FTE 80-96 - still shaking
Re: FTE 80-96 - still shaking
FTE 80-96 - power steering pump
FTE 80-96 - Keep Out!
RE: FTE 80-96 - RE: oil viscosity
RE: FTE 80-96 - Air Pump Goes???
RE: FTE 80-96 - still shaking
RE: FTE 80-96 - power steering pump
FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Pump Goes???
FTE 80-96 - Re:- Transmission oil cooler
FTE 80-96 - Re: Diesel Power
RE: FTE 80-96 - power steering pump
FTE 80-96 - Idle problem on 1996 F-150
Re: FTE 80-96 - still shaking
RE: FTE 80-96 - power steering pump
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: oil viscosity
FTE 80-96 - advice on 88 F150
Re: FTE 80-96 - advice on 88 F150
Re: FTE 80-96 - Idle problem on 1996 F-150

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 08:08:15 -0400
From: Greg Carter
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Transmission oil cooler

But what he probably wanted to know was how to figure out which line is the
'to radiator' and which is back 'to tranny'.

The easiest way to do it is the 'hot line test'. Which is with the truck
cold, pop the hood, get in truck, start, quickly put it in gear and give it
a bit of gas with the foot on the brake, only do this for a few seconds,
shut off truck. This will slip the torque converter and generate heat. Now
get out and run around to the front, put your hands on each of the tranny
lines. The one that is warm is the one that flows to the radiator from the
transmission.

If neither line seems warm, try it again but leave it in gear a bit longer.
Bye.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mobilepdr aol.com [mailto:Mobilepdr aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 1999 11:31 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission oil cooler


Take the out tranny line out of the radiator and put it into the tranny
cooler and install it in front of the radiator.That way it goes thru the
first cooler being the radiator then goes threw the external tranny cooler
then to the transmission.......happy towing
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 08:37:22 -0400
From: "Golly, Scott M"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Air Pump Goes???

Dave,

I have a 1990 with a 5.8L and E4OD. My air pump recently "fell off" when I
took a couple of bolts out and so did the canister, filter, and bypass
valves. The truck runs fantastic and you only need a 90.5 inch belt. I got
torque and horsepower gains, not to mention throttle response.

Now, To answer your question. The outlet of the air pump goes to a series
of vacuum actuated check valves that in the closed position vent the air
back to the small filter behind the battery. In the open position, it
forces the air through a check valve, splits to the catalytic converter
(that also fell off my truck) and also goes to the connector lines that come
out of the exhaust ports on the back of the heads. All of which fell off my
truck. The big canister (not the coffee can, which fell off my truck) is
simply an inlet air filter.

That sounds horrible when I say that it fell off but I live in Maryland
which has strict emissions laws and a treadmill. I passed the emissions
test 2 weeks ago with flying colors in fact the emissions tester said my
truck runs as clean as some of the 97s he has been testing if not
cleaner.....fortunately he forgot to do a visual inspection!!!

Did I answer your question??

Scott M. Golly
Researcher/Fire Protection Engineer & Ford truck fanatic.

: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 22:23:23 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier" dharmier gte.net>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - AIR Pump output goes?????

'91 F-150 5.8L/E4OD (Yuck!)
Where does the output from the AIR pump go? There is a big canister pass
side behind battery from it to pump, then from pump to a vacuum valve about
halfway back along exhaust manifold, then back up to a small canister above
the intake canister. There is a hose nipple on the small one that makes
noise (output) when the engine is revved.
Where should a hose go from there???? I guess to cat, but it's hard to
tell!!!

Help!!!
Dave H.
Houston
92 F-150 Mine
91 F-150 Dads, mine to fix!

P.S. Anyone elses PS box leak? What'd ya do about it?
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 08:51:47 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Air Pump Goes???

Scott,
ROFLMAO...man that must been a HUGE damn bump!!!
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 09:34:14 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: oil viscosity

>The more viscosity modifier you add the thicker the oil will get at the
>higher
>temperature, 200 deg F. BUT, the viscosity modifiers tend to stick the
>upper rings because of the ring temperature, 1700F. That's why GM (brand
>x) discontinued the use of 10w-40 in the mid 80's, the modifier built up
>on the upper rings and stuck the rings and killed the cylinder walls.
>The last I heard before I left the business was that GM would void the
>warranty on your car or truck if they found you had 10w-40 in the pan.
>On major warranty work they do test the oil for many different things if
>there are sufficient claims made.
>
>What this all has boiled down to is that we began to see 10w-30 or
>15w-40 and
>even 15w-50 (btw one of the strongest conventional oils on the market
>was made by a mining company and was a 15w-50, Cato Oil and Grease
>Mystik JT-8) and a few of the 5w-30 oils. There is also a 0w-30. 0w-30
>doesn't mean that there is no viscosity, just that the oil acts like a
>0w at zero deg F.
>
>Most of the Indy cars run a 0 wt oil.
>

This is right... and the more viscosity modifier that is used, the more
lubrication property is displaced.

I would not use 10W-40. I do however, highly recommend 15W-40. Make sure
you get the stuff rated at least SF and CD as this oil is designed for
heavy duty gasoline and diesel engine use. I have used it for over 20 years
with great success. Otherwise go with a straight weight such as SAE 30 or
40. If you live where it gets really cold, use SAE 10W in the winter.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 06:54:53 -0700
From: "Joan and Walt Posluszny"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Test : PLease Ignore

New : Computer, I.D., service.

Walt
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 10:07:38 EDT
From: BanksRVA aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - still shaking

Hey all, still trying to solve a problem on my 82 F100 300 4spd (w/granny)
that is shaking between my 3rd and 4th gears. If i shift before 45 mph the
engine shakes. I am not lugging the engine, it pulls fine and the rpm's feel
and sound right. BUT, If I shift at 35mph it will just shake till I hit
45mph. I am tired of cruisin at 40mph in 3rd gear. Anyone have any ideas?
Timing advance? Carb? I'm clueless at this point. Thank you,
Joe
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 11:51:03 EDT
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - still shaking

In a message dated 8/20/99 2:10:54 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
If you've covered all the basics, like ignition service (car, rotor, wires,
and plugs) then your problem is likely a cylinder or 2 with lower compression
than the others. A compression test will tell you which cylinder(s) are
effected. Good Luck.

BanksRVA aol.com writes:
F100 300 4spd (w/granny)
that is shaking between my 3rd and 4th gears. If i shift before 45 mph the
engine shakes. I am not lugging the engine, it pulls fine and the rpm's feel
and sound right. BUT, If I shift at 35mph it will just shake till I hit
45mph. I am tired of cruisin at 40mph in 3rd gear. Anyone have any ideas?
Timing advance? Carb? I'm clueless at this point. Thank you,


Joe >>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 08:47:05 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: FTE 80-96 - power steering pump

Howdy Group, I was wonnerin' eff'n anyone has an idea on how t'stop a
small leak in my power steerin' box, other than stop leak, which has not
worked, at all . two weeks ago ah thought I was smart by replacin' th'
old fluid in mah pump, well since then it has developed a small leak
that I cant stop. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Eric

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 10:32:50 -0600
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Keep Out!

Paul In Portland (formely Silver City,NM) wrote;

The last I knew, it was illegal to take a motor vehicle into the
Gila
Wilderness except on the main roads. I do remember a couple of guys
from a 4wheel drive shop attempting to go thru the Gila Wilderness.
they stuck the vehicles and walked out. Got caught and had to hire
mule
teams to go in and bring out the vehicles. They wouldn't even let
them
start the engines to help the mule teams. Very Expensive. And that
did
not count the fines.
Paul in Portland OR (who lived in Silver City, NM at that time)

Well if more people thought that way good because hopefully we will run
into less humans when we go! I will start spreading this story to keep more
inconsiderate trash leaving humans out of the forest.

Actually Paul, you are right but one detail you left out was that those
clowns were in a well marked restricted area of the Aldo Leopold Wilderness
(not the Gila Wilderness, although these two areas are adjacent to one
another). IMHO they deserved it. Some areas do not allow any motor vehicles
within their boundaries and thats where these guys were. They did not help
the off-roaders crowd with their actions.

But for where we are going, it was uniformed forest rangers at their
station who gave us several maps and showed us the forest roads leading to
our goal.
And they are the ones who warned us that high ground clearance vehicles and
4X4 was needed to traverse and also showed us good spots to camp. Besides
that every other time we have gone into this wilderness we have run into
game wardens and other forest people. Never a problem.

So Blake, I've never seen a mule up there but lots of elk, antelope, and
deer. I won't hit any (at least intentionally). BTW I was thinking along the
same line you described, all 4 wheels should turn, but my logic is not
always in synch with the rest of the world. I hope to confirm this week-end.

Scott thanks for the suggestion, but I prefer not to go to shops for things
I can do myself. For one they tend to get nervous when I want to look up
under my truck and inspect its undercarriage. Also they always insist their
impact air guns will not overtighten my lugs. That's why it was only my
imagination that I have had shops replace broken studs on two separate
occasions. I prefer to use my own shiny craftsman torque wrench and torque
the lugs to factory specs. I know then I can get them off, and I know that
the Ford Gods will bless my truck and its occupants.

Does anyone else break #2 cylinder spark plug on a regular basis or is it
just me?

Phred - KD5AQB
1995 F-150 4X4 302, Mazda stick, LP powered, and MSD 6-Digital
Incoming fire always has the right of way!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 09:46:44 -0700
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - RE: oil viscosity

Hi Mike,

That was interesting reading... Thanks for the clarification.

You mention that you were in the business... just out of curriosity, can
you give a little more info on what business that was, and what you were
doing?

If I understand you correctly, the hotter the oil gets, the additives in the
multi-grade oils make the oil "thicker"... Is this correct?

I'm driving an '88 F350 (Crew-Cab, Dually) with the 460-CID (7.5 Litre)
engine. It currently has about 134,000 miles on it. I live in Southern
California (no winters), and I'm using a 20w50 oil, with a can of that STP
Oil Treatment (the really thick stuff).

What exactly am I doing to my engine? Should I be using a different
viscosity, or additive, or no additive at all? Up to this point I assumed
that for an engine with high mileage the best thing was 20w-50... I
certanly don't want to shorten the life of my engine by mistake.

Thanks again...

Todd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://209.19.94.132/tmcmahon The home of "The BEAST"


- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Persell [mailto:persell home.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 1999 7:37 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: oil viscosity


"McMahon, Todd R." wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> I'm having a hard time understanding this...
> It would seem to me that it would have to be just the opposite.
> That at zero degrees F the oil must be at its thickest (30),
> and at 200 degrees F the oil must be at its thinest (5).
>
> Am I wrong on this? Perhaps someone can explain it to me.

Its more of this oil is actually a 5w but is designed to act
like a 30w at 200F because of the additive package. One of the
materials used in viscosity index improvers expands to about 28 times
its original size making the oil "act" thicker at 200 deg F. What its
actual viscosity may be will depend on heat, contamination, depletion of
additives, etc.

The more viscosity modifier you add the thicker the oil will get at the
higher
temperature, 200 deg F. BUT, the viscosity modifiers tend to stick the
upper rings because of the ring temperature, 1700F. That's why GM (brand
x) discontinued the use of 10w-40 in the mid 80's, the modifier built up
on the upper rings and stuck the rings and killed the cylinder walls.
The last I heard before I left the business was that GM would void the
warranty on your car or truck if they found you had 10w-40 in the pan.
On major warranty work they do test the oil for many different things if
there are sufficient claims made.

What this all has boiled down to is that we began to see 10w-30 or
15w-40 and
even 15w-50 (btw one of the strongest conventional oils on the market
was made by a mining company and was a 15w-50, Cato Oil and Grease
Mystik JT-8) and a few of the 5w-30 oils. There is also a 0w-30. 0w-30
doesn't mean that there is no viscosity, just that the oil acts like a
0w at zero deg F.

Most of the Indy cars run a 0 wt oil.

Mike
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 10:05:28 -0700
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Air Pump Goes???

Dave:

That's amazing...! Do you have the test values handy? Would you mind
sharing the test results?

Thanks,

Todd

- -----Original Message-----
From: Golly, Scott M [mailto:gollys BATTELLE.ORG]
Sent: Friday, August 20, 1999 5:37 AM
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Air Pump Goes???


Dave,

I have a 1990 with a 5.8L and E4OD. My air pump recently "fell off" when I
took a couple of bolts out and so did the canister, filter, and bypass
valves. The truck runs fantastic and you only need a 90.5 inch belt. I got
torque and horsepower gains, not to mention throttle response.

Now, To answer your question. The outlet of the air pump goes to a series
of vacuum actuated check valves that in the closed position vent the air
back to the small filter behind the battery. In the open position, it
forces the air through a check valve, splits to the catalytic converter
(that also fell off my truck) and also goes to the connector lines that come
out of the exhaust ports on the back of the heads. All of which fell off my
truck. The big canister (not the coffee can, which fell off my truck) is
simply an inlet air filter.

That sounds horrible when I say that it fell off but I live in Maryland
which has strict emissions laws and a treadmill. I passed the emissions
test 2 weeks ago with flying colors in fact the emissions tester said my
truck runs as clean as some of the 97s he has been testing if not
cleaner.....fortunately he forgot to do a visual inspection!!!

Did I answer your question??

Scott M. Golly
Researcher/Fire Protection Engineer & Ford truck fanatic.

: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 22:23:23 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier" dharmier gte.net>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - AIR Pump output goes?????

'91 F-150 5.8L/E4OD (Yuck!)
Where does the output from the AIR pump go? There is a big canister pass
side behind battery from it to pump, then from pump to a vacuum valve about
halfway back along exhaust manifold, then back up to a small canister above
the intake canister. There is a hose nipple on the small one that makes
noise (output) when the engine is revved.
Where should a hose go from there???? I guess to cat, but it's hard to
tell!!!

Help!!!
Dave H.
Houston
92 F-150 Mine
91 F-150 Dads, mine to fix!

P.S. Anyone elses PS box leak? What'd ya do about it?
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 10:08:19 -0700
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - still shaking

What's the condition of your engine and transmission mounts?

- -----Original Message-----
From: BanksRVA aol.com [mailto:BanksRVA aol.com]
Sent: Friday, August 20, 1999 7:08 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - still shaking


Hey all, still trying to solve a problem on my 82 F100 300 4spd (w/granny)
that is shaking between my 3rd and 4th gears. If i shift before 45 mph the
engine shakes. I am not lugging the engine, it pulls fine and the rpm's feel

and sound right. BUT, If I shift at 35mph it will just shake till I hit
45mph. I am tired of cruisin at 40mph in 3rd gear. Anyone have any ideas?
Timing advance? Carb? I'm clueless at this point. Thank you,


Joe
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 10:25:27 -0700
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - power steering pump

Eric:

Where is it leaking from? Perhaps you only need to tighten a hose
fitting?Obviously, the BEST thing to do would be to pull the pump, and
replace the offending gasket (ie: REBUILD the pump). If this is a problem,
you could attempt to tighten any pump housing bolts you can get to.

As a last resort, you could attempt to "patch" the leak: First, drain the
fluid; CLEAN off the area around the leak with Acetone to remove any
oil/dirt(etc); then clean it again with rubbing alcohol to remove any
residual film the acetone may have left behind; apply some RTF Silicone
sealant to the area; allow it to CURE completely (read the instructions);
then re-fill the fluid. Depending on how well you clean the area, the size
of the gap that is leaking, and the amount of preasure behind the fluid that
is being pushed out, the above "patch" should do the trick. Remember that
you don't want to put the fluid in until AFTER the silicone has fully cured,
otherwise it will just leak again.

Keep in mind that this will look like $#!+, and will also be a real pain to
clean off if you should change your mind and decide to replace the gaskets.

Good Luck...!

Todd


- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric Sneed [mailto:ESneed reil.com]
Sent: Friday, August 20, 1999 8:47 AM
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: FTE 80-96 - power steering pump



Howdy Group, I was wonnerin' eff'n anyone has an idea on how t'stop a
small leak in my power steerin' box, other than stop leak, which has not
worked, at all . two weeks ago ah thought I was smart by replacin' th'
old fluid in mah pump, well since then it has developed a small leak
that I cant stop. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Eric

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 13:26:23 -0400
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Air Pump Goes???

Yeah, I hit the same bump with my '82 F150. Only it dropped my entire engine and when I picked it back up again I couldn't find any of the air pump stuff!

My smog inspectors in NC did a visual, but didn't mention the missing smog pump and associated equip. They did want me to put a heat riser in from my headers to my open element air filter, though.

Slik
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 13:29:57 -0400
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:- Transmission oil cooler

Should be the same as the radiator; the top line is the hot line from the transmission. If you don't send it throught the radiator, then it doesn't matter.

Slik
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 10:49:34 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Diesel Power

On Thu, 19 Aug 1999, Bill Sample wrote:
>
> Just a question for you diesel experts. I have noticed that when I
> start running low on fuel, right
> before it starts surging and idling rough it seems to have a lot more
> power. I realize that it is not
> good for the pump to run dry- however I am curious about the apparent
> power increase with a
> "leaner" mixture. Any thoughts on this? I have installed dual exhaust
> in an effort to increase
> drivability, it did not seem to help much. Other than turbocharging -
> what else can I do to improve
> performance without sacrificing torque? Thanks for your thoughts....

I have noticed mine does this, too. I theorized the air might be
atomizing the fuel a little bit better. However, I have never noticed
it at full stomp, only light throttle. Leaner mixture means less
horsepower, period.

As far as performance goes, how is it on the black smoke? Black smoke
indicates that you have reached the full potential of your air
delivery. I.E. You are burning all available air. There should be a
healthy cloud of black smoke as you accelerate quickly from a stop or
corner when your engine is not in the peak power band. At full tilt up
a steep hill you should just be able to see the black smoke in the
mirror. Adjusting the fuel delivery is as simple as turning a screw in
the injection pump. Once you have reached the "black smoke point", any
addidional fuel just gets blown out the pipes.

Rumor also has it that 6.9s suffer from air deprivation in stock form.
You could modify the intake ducting to cause less restriction, but I
don't have any real results on that.

Birken
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 11:01:41 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - power steering pump

Thanks Todd, I am going to try and patch it up. I believe that by
flushing out the system, I probably loosened up dirt or something and
caused it to leak.
Anyways thank for the suggestion.

Eric

> -----Original Message-----
> From: McMahon, Todd R. [SMTP:TMcMahon anacomp.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 20, 1999 10:25 AM
> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - power steering pump
>
> Eric:
>
> Where is it leaking from? Perhaps you only need to tighten a hose
> fitting?Obviously, the BEST thing to do would be to pull the pump, and
> replace the offending gasket (ie: REBUILD the pump). If this is a
> problem,
> you could attempt to tighten any pump housing bolts you can get to.
>
> As a last resort, you could attempt to "patch" the leak: First, drain
> the
> fluid; CLEAN off the area around the leak with Acetone to remove any
> oil/dirt(etc); then clean it again with rubbing alcohol to remove any
> residual film the acetone may have left behind; apply some RTF
> Silicone
> sealant to the area; allow it to CURE completely (read the
> instructions);
> then re-fill the fluid. Depending on how well you clean the area, the
> size
> of the gap that is leaking, and the amount of preasure behind the
> fluid that
> is being pushed out, the above "patch" should do the trick. Remember
> that
> you don't want to put the fluid in until AFTER the silicone has fully
> cured,
> otherwise it will just leak again.
>
> Keep in mind that this will look like $#!+, and will also be a real
> pain to
> clean off if you should change your mind and decide to replace the
> gaskets.
>
> Good Luck...!
>
> Todd
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric Sneed [mailto:ESneed reil.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 20, 1999 8:47 AM
> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - power steering pump
>
>
>
> Howdy Group, I was wonnerin' eff'n anyone has an idea on how t'stop a
> small leak in my power steerin' box, other than stop leak, which has
> not
> worked, at all . two weeks ago ah thought I was smart by replacin' th'
> old fluid in mah pump, well since then it has developed a small leak
> that I cant stop. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Eric
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 12:17:22 -0700
From: "Derek J. Vincent"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Idle problem on 1996 F-150

I have a 1996 F150, with the 300 I-6 and manual tranny. I have been
experiencing some problems with the idle. For example while driving, the
truck will go through periods where, after depressing the clutch to
shift, the idle sticks for as long as 10 seconds before returning to
normal. Also, sometimes after depressing the clutch, the idle RPM will
increase to around 2000 and stay there for 3-7 seconds before slowly
going back to normal and allowing me to complete the shift. This is a
real pain the butt, so if anyone has any info, I would be most grateful.
Thanks.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 15:39:03 -0500
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - still shaking

Joe..
Sounds like a driveshaft problem to me ;^) Check the u-joints and swing
bearing . (If you got one)
Smeck
87 F150
- ----- Original Message -----
From: McMahon, Todd R.
To:
Sent: Friday, August 20, 1999 12:08 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - still shaking


> What's the condition of your engine and transmission mounts?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BanksRVA aol.com [mailto:BanksRVA aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 20, 1999 7:08 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - still shaking
>
>
> Hey all, still trying to solve a problem on my 82 F100 300 4spd (w/granny)
> that is shaking between my 3rd and 4th gears. If i shift before 45 mph the
> engine shakes. I am not lugging the engine, it pulls fine and the rpm's
feel
>
> and sound right. BUT, If I shift at 35mph it will just shake till I hit
> 45mph. I am tired of cruisin at 40mph in 3rd gear. Anyone have any ideas?
> Timing advance? Carb? I'm clueless at this point. Thank you,
>
>
> Joe
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 14:24:08 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - power steering pump

Actually it appears to be leaking from the power steering box as apposed
to the pump.

Eric

> -----Original Message-----
> From: McMahon, Todd R. [SMTP:TMcMahon anacomp.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 20, 1999 10:25 AM
> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - power steering pump
>
> Eric:
>
> Where is it leaking from? Perhaps you only need to tighten a hose
> fitting?Obviously, the BEST thing to do would be to pull the pump, and
> replace the offending gasket (ie: REBUILD the pump). If this is a
> problem,
> you could attempt to tighten any pump housing bolts you can get to.
>
> As a last resort, you could attempt to "patch" the leak: First, drain
> the
> fluid; CLEAN off the area around the leak with Acetone to remove any
> oil/dirt(etc); then clean it again with rubbing alcohol to remove any
> residual film the acetone may have left behind; apply some RTF
> Silicone
> sealant to the area; allow it to CURE completely (read the
> instructions);
> then re-fill the fluid. Depending on how well you clean the area, the
> size
> of the gap that is leaking, and the amount of preasure behind the
> fluid that
> is being pushed out, the above "patch" should do the trick. Remember
> that
> you don't want to put the fluid in until AFTER the silicone has fully
> cured,
> otherwise it will just leak again.
>
> Keep in mind that this will look like $#!+, and will also be a real
> pain to
> clean off if you should change your mind and decide to replace the
> gaskets.
>
> Good Luck...!
>
> Todd
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric Sneed [mailto:ESneed reil.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 20, 1999 8:47 AM
> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - power steering pump
>
>
>
> Howdy Group, I was wonnerin' eff'n anyone has an idea on how t'stop a
> small leak in my power steerin' box, other than stop leak, which has
> not
> worked, at all . two weeks ago ah thought I was smart by replacin' th'
> old fluid in mah pump, well since then it has developed a small leak
> that I cant stop. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Eric
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 21:31:56 -0500
From: Mike Persell
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: oil viscosity

"McMahon, Todd R." wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> You mention that you were in the business... just out of curriosity, can
> you give a little more info on what business that was, and what you were
> doing?

Specialty lubrication work...oil analysis and such for equipment that is
just beyond the specs of the off the shelf stuff. Worked mainly in motor
oils, gear lubes and greases.


> If I understand you correctly, the hotter the oil gets, the additives in the
> multi-grade oils make the oil "thicker"... Is this correct?

Thats true up to a point. Over 220-240 deg it begins to really thin out
and every 20 deg after that the oil life is cut in half, roughly. Always
remember too that if you have an overheating episode, change the oil
too.

> I'm driving an '88 F350 (Crew-Cab, Dually) with the 460-CID (7.5 Litre)
> engine. It currently has about 134,000 miles on it. I live in Southern
> California (no winters), and I'm using a 20w50 oil, with a can of that STP
> Oil Treatment (the really thick stuff).

If you've been using that brand and weight of oil for a while don't
change the routine. Engines don't deal with change very well. The
hardest part of the 20w-50 is the startup, the first few seconds after
starting. The STP will probably help there a little, its pretty
adhesive. (sticks to other things)
Southern Cal temps (I grew up in Lakewood) are no so cold that you'l
have major startup problems. Minnesota is a different story.

>
> What exactly am I doing to my engine? Should I be using a different
> viscosity, or additive, or no additive at all? Up to this point I assumed
> that for an engine with high mileage the best thing was 20w-50... I
> certanly don't want to shorten the life of my engine by mistake.

Apparently your not doing too much bad, 134000 is pretty respectable.
Regular changes of oil and filter are the best maintainance for an
engine. Todays pieces have good metallurgy. Besides the 429-460 family
has a really solid bottom end.


Mike
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 23:53:59 -0400
From: Peter Wong
Subject: FTE 80-96 - advice on 88 F150

I'm looking for owner experience and advice before I buy a used 88 F150
w/ 4.9 6-cylinder, and standard 5-speed with overdrive. The truck has
135,000 mi. and was used to perform landscaping duties (hauling a light
equipment trailer, small payloads, etc.). The clutch seems intact (not
sure if it's been replaced) but is sometimes difficult to put into 1st
when starting from a stop (any common syncro problems to look out for?).
The oil pressure gauge doesn't work (is it common for sensors to go
faulty?), and the alternator light flashes occasionally -- the owner
doesn't seem to think it's a problem since he's been driving it
regularly without incident. All else seems good and solid. The owner has
replace rear brakes, shocks, starter, and electrical tune-up parts. The
vehicle is a southeast car so I didn't see any signs of rust but would
appreciate any advice as to where the common corrosion spots are for
this model year.

Are there specific items (especially those that are expensive) that one
should look out for? Any inherent driveline problems or engine faults
that owners frequently experience (e.g., differential problems, blown
head gaskets, valve train problems, etc.) that I should be careful of?
Your words of wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks.

Peter

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 22:07:45 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - advice on 88 F150

Well if it is a F-150 with a 300-6 then it probably has the Mazda 5spd
tranny, and if the tranny is having problems then I would pass on this one.
The mazda 5spd is not the greatest manual transmission Ford ever used, and a
rebuild can be pretty expensive from what I have heard.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Wong
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, August 20, 1999 8:49 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - advice on 88 F150


>I'm looking for owner experience and advice before I buy a used 88 F150
>w/ 4.9 6-cylinder, and standard 5-speed with overdrive. The truck has
>135,000 mi. and was used to perform landscaping duties (hauling a light
>equipment trailer, small payloads, etc.). The clutch seems intact (not
>sure if it's been replaced) but is sometimes difficult to put into 1st
>when starting from a stop (any common syncro problems to look out for?).
>The oil pressure gauge doesn't work (is it common for sensors to go
>faulty?), and the alternator light flashes occasionally -- the owner
>doesn't seem to think it's a problem since he's been driving it
>regularly without incident. All else seems good and solid. The owner has
>replace rear brakes, shocks, starter, and electrical tune-up parts. The
>vehicle is a southeast car so I didn't see any signs of rust but would
>appreciate any advice as to where the common corrosion spots are for
>this model year.
>
>Are there specific items (especially those that are expensive) that one
>should look out for? Any inherent driveline problems or engine faults
>that owners frequently experience (e.g., differential problems, blown
>head gaskets, valve train problems, etc.) that I should be careful of?
>Your words of wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>Peter
>
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------------------------------....


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