From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #216
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80-96-list-digest Tuesday, August 3 1999 Volume 03 : Number 216



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 80-96 - fuel tank
FTE 80-96 - hot fuel pump ?
FTE 80-96 - aerodynamics
FTE 80-96 - Carb adjustment
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank/other problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Mechanical fuel pump overheat??
FTE 80-96 - AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR
[none]
FTE 80-96 - fuel tanks and recalls
FTE 80-96 - Webb site
RE: FTE 80-96 - Mechanical fuel pump overheat??
Re: [RE: FTE 80-96 - Mechanical fuel pump overheat??]
Re: FTE 80-96 - fuel tank
FTE 80-96 - Reputable Truck Parts and Acces. Company
Re: FTE 80-96 - Reprogramming my speedo for larger tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - Reputable Truck Parts and Acces. Company
Re: FTE 80-96 - Reprogramming my speedo for larger tires
RE: FTE 80-96 - fuel tank
Re: FTE 80-96 - Reputable Truck Parts and Acces. Company
Re: FTE 80-96 - Reputable Truck Parts and Acces. Company
FTE 80-96 - RE: Blinker won't blink.
FTE 80-96 - 302 V8 or 300 I-6?
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 V8 or 300 I-6?
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 V8 or 300 I-6?

=======================================================================

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Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 07:51:20 -0400
From: "Little, Ned"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - fuel tank

I don't believe it would be a bad connection because when the circuit to the
sender is opened the fuel gauge goes full scale. I think that the float in
the sending unit was stuck on the bottom and after you filled the tank and
it sat a while it eventually gave way and your indication was then correct.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Larry [mailto:ldidier worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, July 30, 1999 9:50 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - fuel tank


I've been reading about the various problems with dual tanks. I haven't seen
anyone

with one like mine. The tanks were working fine, and then one day I pulled
into a
service
station to fill them up. I filled the rear tank, and then moved to the
front. It
showed empty on the gauge, but only took about a gallon. I kept trying to
put gas
in it, but it was full. The gauge still showed empty.

I don't drive the truck that often, and it's only been on one long trip
since I've
owned it. It's a 91, 351w, ecab/longbed. It has about 53,000 miles on it.

I assumed the problem was in the sending unit in the tank, and figured that
one day

I'd get around to removing the bed and fixing it. The truck is in emaculate
condition and I always fix any problems... eventually. I like my vehicles to
be
perfect.

OK, so it got parked for a few weeks, and when I went to use it for a trip
to the
lumber yard, the gauge was working fine. It hasn't had a problem since. It's
been
working fine now for over a month. Any ideas? I hate to think that it will
fail
when I most need it, but we all know that's exactly what will happen.
- --
-=Larry=-

91 F-150 XLT Lariat
98 Honda Prelude
99 Honda Civic Si







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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 08:11:26 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - hot fuel pump ?

> I've been running cold water on each part I suspect
> of heating up and the one that seems to be causing
> the problem is the fuel pump; but it's mechanical
> and I can't figure out how it can overheat.

That is quite odd, unless some internal part is binding,
or the opening where the arm extends out of the pump
is full of baked sludge and won't let oil in to lube it.

Fuel pumps are pretty inexpensive at around $10-15,
so perhaps your best bet is to get a new fuel pump.

Even if the old pump is not the problem, you only spent
$10-15, eliminated a possible source of the problem,
and made your truck a little more reliable. You can
always save the old one as an emergency spare.



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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 08:23:44 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - aerodynamics

>
> average refrigerator that high in
> the air. >>

> In case you haven't noticed, most of our trucks
> are already shaped like the average refrigerator to begin with...

Yessir, they are, but when you bring them up another
foot or two, there's even worse drag because there is
more parts showing to catch the air underneath.

I myself don't see the need to spend lots of $$$ to
put a truck in the air and huge tires under it...
granted, if done with some taste, a person can put
together quite an impressive looking lifted truck ...
by the same token, there are those folks who put
a monster lift on a S-10 C#3vy Blazer, and run tires
so huge that they dwarf the engine. This IMO is just
a plain ugly waste of $$$. (there is one of those
driving around my home town area)




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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 09:14:13 -0400
From: "Alger, Timothy, CTR, AFSAA/SAT"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Carb adjustment

I have an 86 F150 with a 351W; 4180 Holley 4bbl. The specific question I
have is reguarding the adjustment of the dashpot plunger and or throttle
lever. I have about a 1/2" space between the two and I know they should be
less than a 1/16". After looking through my manuals I have yet be able to
determine what to look for to check or adjust. All help will be
appreciated.


Tim
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 09:34:49 -0500
From: "DannyF"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank/other problems

> >
> > 5. Passenger side window doesn't work. The motor turns but the window just
> > falls down.
>
> Gears are shot in window motor. Replacement gears are available, biggest problem
> is getting to motor, it's riveted in, drilling and new bolts are required.
>

True, except they aren't gears. You might call them cams or
"tumblers" made of plastic that are probably all chewed up. Ford
sell a kit of replacements for ~$20. Typical dealer pricing... you get
4 or 5 of these pieces worth maybe $2. Many replace with alum.
3/8" round stock for ~$3.

Only thing is typically the windings will go in the mtr a year or two
later. Aftermkt elect. window mtrs new are available for ~$60-
70(screws come w/it). Rebuilt ones are available for ~$45 but are
usually junk because all the rebuilder did was replace the plastic
cams, add new grease and your on your own with the same used
elect. mtr.

Danny


Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 09:34:48 -0500
From: "DannyF"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Mechanical fuel pump overheat??

> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Mechanical fuel pump overheat??
>
> Vapor lock, is the heating god liquid fuel to the point of boiling. It then becomes a vapor that the intake can not use. The majority of vapor lock conditions occur when elements are too close to the
> engine/exhaust manifold. If the mechanical pump were generating this much heat by itself, it would be on the verge of destruction.
>
> It could be the fuel line going into it or the fuel line leaving it that's drawing, then transferring the heat.
>
> Bob
>

Classic case of a weak fuel pump. Replace for $15-20(non-dealer).

Danny
Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 08:58:34 -0600
From: "Ellsworth, Sam"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR

ANY ONE HAVE AN OLD A/C COMPRESSOR LYING/LAYING AROUND THAT THEY WOULD LIKE
TO OFFLOAD?
I AM LOOKING FOR WHAT I BELIEVE TO BE THE YORK BRAND. IT IS KIND OF BIG AND
SQUARE-LOOKING. IT WOULD GO TO A GOOD HOME.
E-MAIL ME IF YOU HAVE ONE PLEASE.
BUY? TRADE?
WE SHOULD BE ABLE TO WORK SOMETHING OUT.

THANKS,

SAM ELLSWORTH
SANTAQUIN, UTAH
88 F-150 4X4
148,000 MILES
DAILY DRIVER

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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 16:22:39 +0100
From: robertwerner postmaster.co.uk
Subject: [none]

Well, I just joined the list, so I figured I'd introduce myself. I'm a 16 year
old male living in west-central Michigan. I live near the lake, and there are
some of the best sand dunes in the country for off-roading just 10 miles from
me. I drive a 91 F-150 4x4, and although it *is* a Ford, it's well...a pile of
crap. This could be attributed to the fact that they guy we bought it from
never took care of it, but I really don't care for the engine (300 straight
six). My mom has an 89 Probe, and we've never had a single problem with it.
It's starting to go now, and rust is taking over, but what can you expect for 10
years of snow driving. I'm trying to save a little money to a late 70's or
early 80's Ford truck, and install a 460 in it that I think I can buy. Finally,
I prefer Fords, but I believe I could live with a Chevy if I had to.


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Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 10:26:22 -0500
From: Andy Norris
Subject: FTE 80-96 - fuel tanks and recalls

I just did a search on recalls at the FTE site, and came back with a recall
on my year of truck calling to REPLACE THE DUAL FUEL TANK SELECTOR VALVE.

Question 1: could this be the reason I can't use the rear fuel tank?
Question 2: is it too late to get a Ford dealer to do this?
Question 3: do I just call the dealership and talk to the service manager
about this?
Question 4: (off subject) what's the best motor oil for a 5.8L 351? I live
in Kansas: friggin' hot in summer, friggin' cold in winter.

Thanks,

Andy Norris
89 F250

P.S. Got my truck out of the shop on Saturday. Had a problem with erratic
idling. There was a radiator leak (I spotted it, they charged me for it),
and the sensor in the radiator was telling the computer that the engine was
overheating (because the level of the fluid in the radiator didn't reach
the sensors). Replaced the radiator hose, filled it with antifreeze, seems
to run better. S'pose I should have just not said anything, taken it home,
and addressed the problem myself...

But, later that day the truck wouldn't start. I went to O'Reilly's and
bought a starter (~$40 exchange) and, for good measure I bought a relay,
too (~$12). Replaced the danged starter (lucked out, only two mounting
bolts), didn't start. Was the relay. The moral, fix the simplest things first.

I'm not so bummed about my truck anymore.

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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 10:36:45 -0500
From: "Sam Means"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Webb site

Sorry about the webb sit being messed up at the time of my earlier email. If
you missed it and are stimll interested,the site is : http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://
Smeans1.homepage.com/Means "


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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 09:13:11 -0700
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Mechanical fuel pump overheat??

Fuel Pumps are not very expensive, and with your vehicle being an '84, it's
probably worth it to replace it anyway. Insulation is important as well, my
vehicle's fuel filter is located right next to my exhaust headers - and
therefore there is a heat shield between them (a piece of metal to deflect
the heat from the headers), there is also insulation on the filter and the
fuel lines in this area.

Go ahead and replace the fuel pump, and add insulation and/or heat shields
anywhere there is a possibility of heat transfer.

Good luck!

Todd

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Hirsch [mailto:bobh p3.net]
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 1999 2:37 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Mechanical fuel pump overheat??


Has anybody out there ever experienced a *mechanical* type fuel pump that
can overheat and stop the truck?

I've been having a tough time troubleshooting a "stalls when hot problem"
with my 84 F150 (302).

I've been running cold water on each part I suspect of heating up and the
one that seems to be causing the problem is the fuel pump; but it's
mechanical and I can't figure out how it can overheat.

Make any sense? Anybody have any similar experience? Should I change the
pump or insulate it somehow?
Thanks.

Bob Hirsch
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Date: 2 Aug 99 11:32:06 PDT
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [RE: FTE 80-96 - Mechanical fuel pump overheat??]

"McMahon, Todd R." wrote:

> Go ahead and replace the fuel pump, and add insulation and/or heat shie=
lds
> anywhere there is a possibility of heat transfer.
> =

> Good luck!
> =

> Todd
> =

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Hirsch [mailto:bobh p3.net]
> Sent: Sunday, August 01, 1999 2:37 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Mechanical fuel pump overheat??


> I've been running cold water on each part I suspect of heating up and t=
he
> one that seems to be causing the problem is the fuel pump; but it's
> mechanical and I can't figure out how it can overheat.
> =

> Make any sense? Anybody have any similar experience? Should I change =
the
> pump or insulate it somehow?
> Thanks.
> =

> Bob Hirsch
############################################
Bob did the right thing and Todd has the right answer--I've seen it in VW=

engines, too. Yes, the old, aircooled ones, where the copper fuel lines =
wrap
around the engine to get to the fuel pump. The fuel heats up and vaporiz=
es,
causing the pump to lose its prime and blocking the fuel flow. I'll bet =
there
are some heat shields missing from around the fuel line or the fuel line =
has
been rerouted near the exhaust manifold or aftermarket headers are cookin=
g the
fuel line. =


Doubt if the fuel pump is the problem, but it's old enough to pull off an=
d
look at. Another fix from old VW days is to put an electric fuel pump at=
the
tank so it can push cold fuel straight to the carb--they usually come wit=
h a
blank plate to block off the old pump. Just be sure to get the LOW press=
ure
pump, not the HIGH pressure FI pump.

Bill in Portland

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webm=
ail.netscape.com.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 14:06:48 -0700
From: Larry
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - fuel tank

"Little, Ned" wrote:

> I don't believe it would be a bad connection because when the circuit to the
> sender is opened the fuel gauge goes full scale. I think that the float in
> the sending unit was stuck on the bottom and after you filled the tank and
> it sat a while it eventually gave way and your indication was then correct.
>

Thanks. At this point everything is working perfectly. Trying to trouble shoot a
problem under these conditions is sorta difficult. I guess I'll just have to
wait and see if it happens again.
- --
-=Larry=-




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Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 19:47:32 -0400
From: Cliff McLarty
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Reputable Truck Parts and Acces. Company

I have heard of JC Whitney, but do not know of any other
companies/cataloges/websites that I should be looking at for
parts/ideas. Can you help? I am in Asheville, NC so need a storefront
with a website/mail order.

Thanks.

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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 20:04:07 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Reprogramming my speedo for larger tires

Gang,
Ok...I have read about reprogramming the speedo/odo to recalibrate for a gear
change or different tires size. How does one do this, and what is the
equation you use to figure out what to set it to?
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 21:02:57 EDT
From: PMckee5253 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Reputable Truck Parts and Acces. Company

Try Summit.com or Jegs.com if you have a V-8 or clifford performance.com if
you have a I6. If you want body parts or acessories go with JCWhitney.
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 21:28:18 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Reprogramming my speedo for larger tires

In a message dated 08/02/1999 9:10:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
FLR150 aol.com writes:


Ok...I have read about reprogramming the speedo/odo to recalibrate for a
gear
change or different tires size. How does one do this, and what is the
equation you use to figure out what to set it to?
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC >>

80-96 - Speedometer Calibration FOUND IT
Start with 20186, divide by actual tire size in inches. Divide again by 66.66
Example: 20186/34.5=585.1/66.66=8.78
Thus for 34.5 inch tires, the calibration is 878
To set the calibration, ground the single wire connector under the glove
box, hold in reset button on trip meter and turn ignition to ON. From here
use Select to get proper calibration and press reset to store
This can ONLY be done 6 times before you have to replace the module

wayne, this is what I have in my archives... although I haven't done it yet
after the addition of my tires, I'm told it's the correct procedure.

Later...

Joe
Lost in Jersey

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Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999 20:24:42 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - fuel tank

At 07:51 02/08/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I don't believe it would be a bad connection because when the circuit to the
>sender is opened the fuel gauge goes full scale. I think that the float in
>the sending unit was stuck on the bottom and after you filled the tank and
>it sat a while it eventually gave way and your indication was then correct.

No, actually, the guages work by heat and the lower the resistance in the
sender, the greater the heating in the guage and the higher it reads. So,
if you have an open circuit you have no heating and the guage reads empty
(or cold if temp guage, or no oil pressure, if oil guage).

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 21:44:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ken Woods
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Reputable Truck Parts and Acces. Company

Or, correctly:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.summitracing.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jegs.com
and
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cliffordperformance.com


On Mon, 2 Aug 1999 PMckee5253 aol.com wrote:

> Try Summit.com or Jegs.com if you have a V-8 or clifford performance.com if
> you have a I6. If you want body parts or acessories go with JCWhitney.
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>

- --
Ken Woods
kwoods kens.com
acm muc.de is an idiot. Please email him and tell him that he's an idiot.


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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 21:53:15 EDT
From: LGRanch aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Reputable Truck Parts and Acces. Company

What parts are you looking for. For sheet metal parts try Fenderworld.com.
Let them know you are with the forum and they will ship outside of Michigan
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 21:37:06 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Blinker won't blink.

My '92 did it (stayed on) . Pulled into Spaced Out Zone (Autozone), spent a
couple bucks bucks, and put a new HD Flasher in. BINGO!!!

That'll fix ONE problem. If you are at ALL inclined, you can fix the door
lock, and power window at one time, by pulling the panel off, and putting
(USUALLY) only a gear kit in the window motor, and putting the lock rod
back on. (If power locks, may need a new lock motor, you'll know it if so!)
(but it sounds like a clip slipped off from the outside lock)

A/C might be a bit pricey, but now that mine got 134, I can put some in
when needed.

Run the rear tank first...when it runs out, switch, then about 150-180
miles later, fill up!
(I have to run front first, as rear will pump 5-6 gallons back to front...I
live with it!)

Sometimes I LONG for a non computer vehicle...except our El Camino needs
5-6 minutes before we can drive it away, F-150...seconds (Though I give oil
time to flow around, and heat time to build before much throttle)

Be cool, (Can't do it here...HOT!!!!!!)

Dave H.
Houston, TX
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 20:41:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Kyle McC."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 302 V8 or 300 I-6?

In the next three months or so I am going to buy a Ford pickup and
wondering which is a better motor? It will be in the 80's to early 90's
range. I do not pull anything just throw camping gear in the back and
the motorcycle every now and then. So I am not concerned about whether
enough power just the best gas mileage and reliabilty. Also if I ever
want to in the future trick out the motor which would be better? 302 or
300? Also the vehicle will be a Short Box with four wheel drive. Just
to throw that in there. Thanks for any help. Kyle



_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 23:49:51 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 V8 or 300 I-6?

Kyle,
Definitely go with the 302, get a 351W if you can. If you get the EFI version
of the 351, most of the aftermarket performance parts will interchange,
except for the intakes. If you want to talk 302 performance, email me off
list.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 22:22:42 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 V8 or 300 I-6?

If mileage and reliablility are important to you then I would suggest
finding a truck with an EFI 300. The 300 is a very sturdy and reliable
engine, and with EFI you can get very good (for a full-sized truck) gas
mileage. The 302 is DEFINITELY easier to trick out if you decide you want a
hot rod truck in the future. But with a high flow exhuast and a K&N filter,
the 300 will make planty of power for you.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kyle McC.
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
....


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