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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #212
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80-96-list-digest Friday, July 30 1999 Volume 03 : Number 212



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge
Re: FTE 80-96 - Erratic idle and poor fuel economy
FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: ignition amp.
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank
RE: FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank
Re: FTE 80-96 - MSD
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge
Re: [Re: FTE 80-96 - 93-96 F150]
FTE 80-96 - Solonoid wiring '85 F150
Re: FTE 80-96 - MSD
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge
FTE 80-96 - As for the three to eight sparks,dud I dunno!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank
Re: FTE 80-96 - another question
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 New paint job
Re: FTE 80-96 - 84 F150 Brakes
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge//
Re: [Re: FTE 80-96 - 93-96 F150]
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 New paint job
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank
Re: FTE 80-96 - another question
Re: [Re: FTE 80-96 - 93-96 F150]
Re: FTE 80-96 - MSD
FTE 80-96 - e-test
FTE 80-96 - Black Magic fan problem.....
FTE 80-96 - Beginner without a clue
Re: FTE 80-96 - another question
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge//
Re: FTE 80-96 - MSD
Re: FTE 80-96 - Beginner without a clue

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 06:06:06 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge

On a recent afternoon, with the temperature at about 100 degrees, I figured
it was a good idea to check the timing on my truck. Never mind why. so, I
disconnect the cable from the temp sensor and let the engine idle at about
1600 rpm for a few minutes. My first clue was the water gushing from the
radiator cap. Yeah, I know I have some work to do on the cooling system. I
obviously turned off the truck and reconnected the cable. Anyway, the temp
gauge read about half immediately following this episode. Hence, the
conclusion that half scale is too hot.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Hirsch
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, July 28, 1999 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge


>If the temp gauge is showing normal, and the truck is running, what are you
guys using to know it's overheating?
>
> 72/73 de Bob, W3CW
> New Hope Pennsylvania
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 08:02:49 -0700
From: Pat Murphy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Erratic idle and poor fuel economy

HI Michael,
I checked the vacuum lines and re-torked all the Manifold bolts and
I still have the problem. With no codes. I think that I will zero
time the O2 sensor, and the BAP (the book shows the part to be a BAP
sensor not a MAP). If the problem still exists I will have to get a new
Idle Air Controle Valve. If someone out there has any thoughts let me
know.

Pat

Michael McCarthy wrote:
>
> My 2 cents on erratic idle and poor fuel economy.
>
> I agree that it probably has something to do with the MAP sensor but the
> sensor itself may not be bad. The MAP sensor reads the intake manifold
> vacuum. It then adjust the spark advance and fuel mixture based on its
> reading. If it reads a poor vacuum it thinks the engine is under load and it
> retards the spark and richens the fuel mixture. If there is a vacuum leak
> the MAP sensor continuously reads a poor vacuum and hence continuously
> retards the spark and richens the fuel mixture. The result - erratic idle
> and poor fuel economy.
> I think you should check all of the vacuum lines first. Look for
> disconnected lines or lines that are too close to hot surfaces like
> manifolds. Make absolutely sure you don't have a vacuum leak before you do
> anything else. I speak from experience and expense.
>
> Michael McCarthy
> Export, PA
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 10:27:08 -0500
From: Andy Norris
Subject: FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank

Jeesh, with all the talk about gas tanks and gas gauges, I'm starting to
feel a little discouraged. I have an 88 F250 that has two tanks, but the
rear one doesn't work. The fella I bought it from said "the fuel line may
be pinched or something." I was foolish and took the "or something" as
something that might be easy enough to fix... But with everything I'm
reading on this list, it sounds almost like Ford wasted their time putting
in a second fuel tank. Maybe they should have just put one tank in that
would hold 30 gallons or therabouts...

I really wanted to be able to count on being able to use the rear tank,
then I could make bimonthly payments at the gas station, instead of
visiting them once a week or more... (over the last 1600 mi. I'm averaging
10.5 mpg.)

Is there hope out there? Has anyone lost their rear gas tank and fixed it
or had it fixed and it's still working okay?

I hope I don't get too discouraged. My truck is in the shop right now with
some bad idling issues. If they can straighten that problem out, the next
thing on the list is getting the slop taken out of the steering. The fuel
tank was the third big-ticket item... I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I
don't get too bummed on Ford trucks too quickly!

Thanks,

Andy Norris
88 F250
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 08:29:15 -0700
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: ignition amp.

Mike,

Sure, Ohm's Law... I learned it in High School... I understand where
you're coming from...

Keeping it in simple terms for the non-technical people on the list... Most
spark amplifiers actually INCREASE resistance, to allow a greater
"differential" to be established, and by this I mean MORE current than what
would "normally" be required to bridge the gap of the spark plug (just like
the effect of increasing the size of the gap). Once that "build-up" has
reached some pre-determined saturation point, a transistor kicks in which
then BYPASSES that source of resistance (lowering resistance, as you
mentioned, IS the only way to increase current). This allows the circuit to
then complete through the spark plug (now with MORE energy than would have
been possible otherwise), which in turn allows for a greater amount of
current=amps=energy to bridge the spark plug gap.

I suppose, for non-street applications, that you could probably get a
"bigger" spark by simply bypassing the "starter resistor" in the circuit...
If I remember correctly, once the vehicle has started and the ignition key
is released, the coil output passes through a resistor. I don't know if
it's there for electrical noise reduction, or if it's intended to increase
spark plug life.... But I remember that there was one in use (on older
vehicles, anyways).

I'll ask a friend about that gizmo that fires the plugs more than once, and
then post the info...

Todd

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Salomone [mailto:mickeys sedona.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 1999 7:55 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: ignition amp.


Todd,
Damn ...I knew I should of kep my mouth shut.
Well... here goes.
E=IxR,...R=E/I,...I=E/R....These are all algebraically
equivalent.
E=voltage (volts), I=current(amps), R=resistance(ohms)
If you don't change the coil, the voltage stays the
same.The only way then, to
get higher amperage, is to decrease resistance.
Follow...12v system 24ohm parking light lamp=1/2 amp.
12volts 12ohm driving lamp =
1amp
12volts 3ohm headlight
=4amps
12volts 0.001ohm piece of
wire=12,000amps meltdown
remember the last time you laid a wrench on the battery
and it got between the + and the body.Lots of amps!!!!
Since the coil (autotransformer) secondary, through the
sparkplug,
is a series circuit, there is no way, adding anything
to the circuit, can DEcrease resistance.
I don't understand how any device can ''force a larger
amperage buildup'',since the
resistance [the spark gap] remains the same.
You are right about increasing the gap, that WILL
increase the current=amps=amount of energy.
My best guess,without taking one apart,is that the
ignition amplifiers add an AC
component to the DC voltage pulse caused by the
collapse of the coils' magnetic field
as the points open.
Okay okay.... no points!, transistor switch
ie.electronic ignition.
This is how the new small welders work you get a small
high frequency AC
arc to form between the rod and the work.Then the air
gap begins to ionize and the DC component containing
the power (amps) can flow more easily and at a further
distance than DC alone.
Any other ideas.I'm open.
As for the three to eight sparks,dud I dunno!
Happpy Trails
Mike Salomone aka mickeys sedona.net

----- Original Message -----
From: McMahon, Todd R.
To:
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 1999 10:08 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: ignition amp.


Mike,

Don't confuse voltage with amperage.... Most of the
spark amplifiers are
forcing a larger amperage build-up and not an increase
in voltage.

In the old-days you simply increased the spark plug's
gap a bit, so that the
amount of energy required to get the spark to jump the
gap was greater. Now
they've even got plugs with air-gaps built into them
inside the ceramic to
do the same thing.

I have however heard about a device that is supposed to
fire the spark plugs
more than once, in order to get a more complete burn
(something like 3 to 8
sparks instead of one).

Ever hear about them?

Todd

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Salomone [mailto:mickeys sedona.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 1999 8:02 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: ignition amp.

Wayne ,what I'm referring to was a octagonal
plastic/phenolic
device about 2" across and 3" long.It had a recess in
one end {for the coil wire}
and a lug on the other end to fit into the distributor
cap where the coil wire came out of.
If it goes in series with the coil wire it cannmot
''amplify''.
I'm an electrician and an electronics tech doing
industrial instrumentation
for the past 30 years.
The only way to get a hotter ie.''higher voltage ''
spark is to install a coil with
more windings on the ''secondary side''.I put secondary
in quotes because the
automotive coil is really what is called an
autotransformer.
>>>>>>Mike

----- Original Message -----
From:
To: ;
Sent: Monday, July 26, 1999 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Mileage/power


In a message dated 7/27/99 12:10:54 AM Eastern Daylight
Time,
mickeys sedona.net writes:


was a
youngster.
It's snake oil, friends!!!!!!!
>>
Hmmm..then I guess the MSD, Jacobs, Accel, Holley, and
Crane ignition
amplifiers are all snake oil too? If you think they
don't work, I have a coil
wire I want you to hold while I crank over my motor.
You wont be holding it
for very long...trust me.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC (MSD 6AL equipped)

HREF="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/index.html">Wayne's
Page
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 09:49:05 -0700
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank

>Jeesh, with all the talk about gas tanks and gas gauges, I'm starting to
>feel a little discouraged. I have an 88 F250 that has two tanks, but the
>rear one doesn't work. The fella I bought it from said "the fuel line may
>be pinched or something." I was foolish and took the "or something" as
>something that might be easy enough to fix... But with everything I'm
>reading on this list, it sounds almost like Ford wasted their time putting
>in a second fuel tank. Maybe they should have just put one tank in that
>would hold 30 gallons or therabouts...
>
>I really wanted to be able to count on being able to use the rear tank,
>then I could make bimonthly payments at the gas station, instead of
>visiting them once a week or more... (over the last 1600 mi. I'm averaging
>10.5 mpg.)
>
>Is there hope out there? Has anyone lost their rear gas tank and fixed it
>or had it fixed and it's still working okay?
>
>I hope I don't get too discouraged. My truck is in the shop right now with
>some bad idling issues. If they can straighten that problem out, the next
>thing on the list is getting the slop taken out of the steering. The fuel
>tank was the third big-ticket item... I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I
>don't get too bummed on Ford trucks too quickly!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Andy Norris
>88 F250

Common problem with dual tanks is the switcher that is located in the left
frame rail directly under the cab. (Has 6 fuel lines running to it)


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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 13:07:22 -0400
From: "Little, Ned"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank

This is exactly the problem that caused me to change out my sender/pump unit
located in the rear tank. You can check to see what is bad by disconnecting
your supply line to the 6 port switch located inside the left frame. This
will be the bottom inside line from the rear. Disconnect the line and short
the right pin on the maintenance plug (with the flat side down) to ground.
This causes the fuel pumps to run constantly when the ignition switch is on.
Switch to the rear tank, turn on the ignition switch and you should be able
to hear your pump in the rear tank run and there should be a good flow of
gas from the rear tank. If not, probably your in-tank pump is bad.
Possibly a kinked line but not likely.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andy Norris [mailto:anorris allenpress.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 1999 11:27 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank



Jeesh, with all the talk about gas tanks and gas gauges, I'm starting to
feel a little discouraged. I have an 88 F250 that has two tanks, but the
rear one doesn't work. The fella I bought it from said "the fuel line may
be pinched or something." I was foolish and took the "or something" as
something that might be easy enough to fix... But with everything I'm
reading on this list, it sounds almost like Ford wasted their time putting
in a second fuel tank. Maybe they should have just put one tank in that
would hold 30 gallons or therabouts...

I really wanted to be able to count on being able to use the rear tank,
then I could make bimonthly payments at the gas station, instead of
visiting them once a week or more... (over the last 1600 mi. I'm averaging
10.5 mpg.)

Is there hope out there? Has anyone lost their rear gas tank and fixed it
or had it fixed and it's still working okay?

I hope I don't get too discouraged. My truck is in the shop right now with
some bad idling issues. If they can straighten that problem out, the next
thing on the list is getting the slop taken out of the steering. The fuel
tank was the third big-ticket item... I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I
don't get too bummed on Ford trucks too quickly!

Thanks,

Andy Norris
88 F250
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 15:13:28 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - MSD

In a message dated 7/29/99 12:51:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
docster webtv.net writes:


coil. How much of a difference did you see and feel in overall driving? >>

Doc,
Well, the seat of the pants feeling was that a definite improvement was made.
The plugs looked much cleaner and the mileage picked up by 2-3 mpg (mostly
city driving). Now if I were you, I would spend the extra bucks and get the
6AL instead of the A. It has the added features of the built in rev limiter
and a specific tach hookup. It also has a separate hookup for a timing
control box. If you need more info, ask away.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 17:10:40 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge

In a message dated 07/28/1999 8:56:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Lwskywalk aol.com writes:


need fan to work..

thanks

luke welden
94 f150 >>

Luke,

I have wired up my fans to run when the ignition is on, with a relay acting
as the switch, and I tapped into the coil hot, as the sender for the relay.
The fans only come on when the ignition is on. I haven't had a problem here
in Blistering NYC traffic with the a/c on even with 98* temps, well it hasn't
been below 90* in a couple weeks.

Joe
Lost in Jersey
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------------------------------

Date: 29 Jul 99 14:50:52 PDT
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [Re: FTE 80-96 - 93-96 F150]

Question:
> >I'm considering buying a 93-96 F150 4x2 or 4x4 with a 4.9L & manual
> >trans. I haven't owned a pickup in a few years, so I'm kind of out of=

> >the loop as to what's happening.
> >
> >I know that the 4.9 is a good engine (owned one before) but I'm not su=
re
> >about the tranny's that they are putting in those trucks. My last F15=
0
> >was a '85 and that had the good old tough as nails 4 speed (granny
> >first, no OD).
> >
- --------------------
> =

> The 300 six cylinder is a good engine. It is not as sporty of an engine=
as
> the V-8s because you can not wind it up and really take off quickly lik=
e
> they can, but it is a good puller.
> =

> Try to find a truck with a ZF transmission, rather than the Mazda 5 spe=
ed
> as it is quite weak. I think it is a Mazda and Ranger truck transmissio=
n
> and some technition though it would hold up in regular trucks.
> =

> The Borg Warner T-18 4 speed you had in your 85 most likely can't be be=
at
> by anything Ford offers.
> =

> Blake
> Little Mountain
> Concord, Ohio
- -----------------------

Blake's right on the money, but I'll go one step farther--look for your o=
ld
truck! A fuel-injected 6 with the 4sp grannie in a pre-90's (minimum
computer) vehicle. With what I'm hearing about the later model trucks, I=
'll
keep rebuilding my 82!

Bill in Portland

____________________________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 18:26:00 -0400
From: Ron Freidel
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Solonoid wiring '85 F150

Hi,

I am buying an 85 F150 with the 300 straight 6, currently it has a
wiring problem, the current owner had some work done on it, now the
starter engages but will not release.

I am thinking that the solonoid was wired incorrectly. My last pickup
was a 81 F350, it had a different solonoid on it, this one has a round
one, and I don't have a Chilton's handy to refer to.

Anyone know of a site that may have a diagram or photo I could look at?
The local parts store doesn't have a Chilton's that covers an 85, I am
sort of at a loss.

Any assistance is appreciated.

Thanks,


Ron
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 18:34:51 EDT
From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - MSD

i gotta a msd6al same as wayne.....i can tell a difference but not a big
one..the more mods i do the better it works. and the less fuel i use

luke
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 18:50:01 EDT
From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge

thanks man...i was really impressed with the fan at first but as the weeks
passed the truck kept runnin hotter and hotter. so i put the stock fan and
shroud back on and still not as good as it was claimed to be so I DONT KNOW.
i am takin it back to the shop where i got it and see what they say
..........Hopin they will have a answer for me im goin to try the relay but
have to figure out what when wrong first

luke
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 17:03:28 -0600
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - As for the three to eight sparks,dud I dunno!

Hi Mike,

On Wednesday Mike Salomone wrote;
The only way then, to
get higher amperage, is to decrease resistance.

As for the three to eight sparks,dud I dunno!
Happpy Trails
Mike Salomone aka mickeys sedona.net

Yes you are absolutely right sir, but there is more than one way to skin a
cat. Working for one of the divisions of MSD, the way our system introduces
high current is by literally connecting to the battery.
We are wired in series with the coil but the input only triggers the MSD
ignition, and our output actually charges the ignition coil. So in a
nutshell, the MSD controls the stored energy in the battery to charge the
coil.
MSD Ignitions fire for a 20 degrees of crankshaft rotation for each
cylinder and of course the time for the 20 degrees to occur depends on the
RPM.
The feature about the system is if its oscillator circuit is allowed to
cycle 2, 3, 4, or 500 times during the 20 degree period, then you get that
number of sparks (just kidding with the 500 value).
And no, you don't want to hold on to the coil wire with an MSD or any
ignition, chances are you will also hurt yourself by trying to pull away
from the current.
See Fred bang his head on hood for 20 degrees of crankshaft rotation! Been
there, done that, and once was enough.
Yes I like the ignition.
FWIW, this morning the Ford almost had a Suzuki for breakfast, its driver
had the audacity to cut me off! Turned the truck a little sideways while
making a lot of noise with 10.50 X 31 BFG A/T grabbing the asphalt and the
horn drawing current. Suzuki driver just waved at me and would no longer
look in my direction, can't imagine why. That guy never read the postings of
the recent days!

Mr. "Doing a Great Job" Admin, any hats left?

My two pesos.

Phred
1995 F-150 4X4, 5.0L, Mazda 5-speed, Eduardo Package, LP powered (Drive on
Les in Oz!).


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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 19:16:56 -0400
From: Cliff McLarty
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge

My revelation that half way was too hot was on I-40 pulling my bass boat home
from a tourney. Needle about 1/4 way up until 30 miles from home. Heard some
knocking, started loosing power, and saw smoke (my radiator had busted), and the
needle had just started to hit the 1/2 way mark. Now, if it even thinks of
going above 1/4, I will stop and check it out. So far, after radiator
replacement, nothing above 1/4.

Michael McCarthy wrote:

> On a recent afternoon, with the temperature at about 100 degrees, I figured
> it was a good idea to check the timing on my truck. Never mind why. so, I
> disconnect the cable from the temp sensor and let the engine idle at about
> 1600 rpm for a few minutes. My first clue was the water gushing from the
> radiator cap. Yeah, I know I have some work to do on the cooling system. I
> obviously turned off the truck and reconnected the cable. Anyway, the temp
> gauge read about half immediately following this episode. Hence, the
> conclusion that half scale is too hot.
>
> Michael McCarthy
> Export, PA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Hirsch
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Date: Wednesday, July 28, 1999 7:58 PM
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge
>
> >If the temp gauge is showing normal, and the truck is running, what are you
> guys using to know it's overheating?
> >
> > 72/73 de Bob, W3CW
> > New Hope Pennsylvania
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> >
>
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 19:24:19 -0400
From: Cliff McLarty
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank

Andy, don't get too bumed out. Think about how old your truck is. Things do
wear out, break, or just reach their engineered life span. I have been greatly
pleased that my 88 F-150 has only had one engine, one transmission, and one
steering gear box go out, oh yeh, one radiator too. It's just like our bodies,
when a vehicle reaches 10-11 years old body parts start to sag, aches start to
creep up on you, little noices start to be noticed (bones grinding), etc. Just
give it some TLC and you will enjoy years to come.

Andy Norris wrote:

> Jeesh, with all the talk about gas tanks and gas gauges, I'm starting to
> feel a little discouraged. I have an 88 F250 that has two tanks, but the
> rear one doesn't work. The fella I bought it from said "the fuel line may
> be pinched or something." I was foolish and took the "or something" as
> something that might be easy enough to fix... But with everything I'm
> reading on this list, it sounds almost like Ford wasted their time putting
> in a second fuel tank. Maybe they should have just put one tank in that
> would hold 30 gallons or therabouts...
>
> I really wanted to be able to count on being able to use the rear tank,
> then I could make bimonthly payments at the gas station, instead of
> visiting them once a week or more... (over the last 1600 mi. I'm averaging
> 10.5 mpg.)
>
> Is there hope out there? Has anyone lost their rear gas tank and fixed it
> or had it fixed and it's still working okay?
>
> I hope I don't get too discouraged. My truck is in the shop right now with
> some bad idling issues. If they can straighten that problem out, the next
> thing on the list is getting the slop taken out of the steering. The fuel
> tank was the third big-ticket item... I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I
> don't get too bummed on Ford trucks too quickly!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Andy Norris
> 88 F250
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 19:37:33 -0400
From: Bob Hirsch
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - another question

Sooooo.......
Nobody answered my question about what the spark should look like on my 84 F150; fat and blue or thin and yellow? Dura-Spark ignition.

Here's another question; If the truck stalls due to an electrical problem would it still require pumping of the gas pedal to restart it?

302/carburator.

Anybody have either answer?
Anybody have *both* answers?

Bob
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 17:44:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tracy H
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 New paint job

.Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 16:06:40 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Paint Job

Scan a line drawing of a truck like yours and, using
photoshop or
illustrator or something, paint in the colors you are
thinking aboutand
see how it looks.
Blake

Thanks for your help. I never even thought of that!
Thank you so much. I hope that I get some ideas from
it. I think that Todd's (from this Ford list) '85 ford
has a great paint job and I might get something
simalar. Thanks again. ~*Tracy*~

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 20:49:27 -0400
From: "Troy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 84 F150 Brakes

On 28 Jul 99, at 8:07, Roy Houston wrote:

>Troy, My power brake booster is a leaker. So bad it was making the truck
>idle extremely rough. I just disconnected the line and plugged it. It's a
>little tougher to stop, and every time I get in the wife's van I nearly eat
>the dashboard. Loosing the booster won't make it impossible to stop. So
>you're safe.

That's what I figured. If the booster wasn't working then I wouldn't
have the power assist to the brakes, just that it would take a little
more effort to stop. :)

>I've got a few goodies to change out and I'm waitin' for some cooler days,
>if they ever get here!

Shoot, you're telling me. Especially since I am working in an un-air
conditioned warehouse that can sometimes get around 20 degrees
hotter than the air outside. If I make it through the summer at this
job, it'll be a miracle. :)

You might be a redneck if... You have your wife check the depth of
the water before you drive your truck through it. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet. Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 21:22:02 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge//

In a message dated 07/29/1999 7:19:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dadinc icu2.net writes:


home
from a tourney. Needle about 1/4 way up until 30 miles from home. Heard
some
knocking, started loosing power, and saw smoke (my radiator had busted), and
the
needle had just started to hit the 1/2 way mark. Now, if it even thinks of
going above 1/4, I will stop and check it out. So far, after radiator
replacement, nothing above 1/4. >>

That's not cool... Who makes the Windshield pillar gauge holders??? I think
I'm gonna install an aux gauge or two...

Joe
Lost in Jersey
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 18:44:39 -0700
From: Rob
Subject: Re: [Re: FTE 80-96 - 93-96 F150]

William Berninghausen wrote:
>
> Question:
> > >I'm considering buying a 93-96 F150 4x2 or 4x4 with a 4.9L & manual
> > >trans. I haven't owned a pickup in a few years, so I'm kind of out of
> > >the loop as to what's happening.
> > >
> > >I know that the 4.9 is a good engine (owned one before) but I'm not sure
> > >about the tranny's that they are putting in those trucks. My last F150
> > >was a '85 and that had the good old tough as nails 4 speed (granny
> > >first, no OD).
> > >
> --------------------
> >
> > The 300 six cylinder is a good engine. It is not as sporty of an engine as
> > the V-8s because you can not wind it up and really take off quickly like
> > they can, but it is a good puller.
> >
> > Try to find a truck with a ZF transmission, rather than the Mazda 5 speed
> > as it is quite weak. I think it is a Mazda and Ranger truck transmission
> > and some technition though it would hold up in regular trucks.
> >
> > The Borg Warner T-18 4 speed you had in your 85 most likely can't be beat
> > by anything Ford offers.
> >
> > Blake
> > Little Mountain
> > Concord, Ohio
> -----------------------
>
> Blake's right on the money, but I'll go one step farther--look for your old
> truck! A fuel-injected 6 with the 4sp grannie in a pre-90's (minimum
> computer) vehicle. With what I'm hearing about the later model trucks, I'll
> keep rebuilding my 82!
>
> Bill in Portland
>

What was the first year that they fuel-injected the 6? (I'm trying to
avoid the 86-92 years as they were not my favorite models). If I do
have to go with an older truck, what was the last year that the 6 came
in the F250? I would prefer a fuel-injected engine as they are much
nicer in winter (ie, I hate chokes). One last question - was the fuel
injection a throttle body, or was it sequential?

Thanks, rob
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 22:03:15 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 New paint job

>.Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 16:06:40 -0500
>From: Blake Malkamaki
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Paint Job
>
>Scan a line drawing of a truck like yours and, using
>photoshop or
>illustrator or something, paint in the colors you are
>thinking aboutand
>see how it looks.
>Blake
>
>Thanks for your help. I never even thought of that!
>Thank you so much. I hope that I get some ideas from
>it. I think that Todd's (from this Ford list) '85 ford
>has a great paint job and I might get something
>simalar. Thanks again. ~*Tracy*~
>

It would be nice to have an ftp archive site we could upload paint scheme
ideas to.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 21:56:00 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear fuel tank

>Andy, don't get too bumed out. Think about how old your truck is. Things do
>wear out, break, or just reach their engineered life span. I have been
>greatly
>pleased that my 88 F-150 has only had one engine, one transmission, and one
>steering gear box go out, oh yeh, one radiator too. It's just like our
>bodies,
>when a vehicle reaches 10-11 years old body parts start to sag, aches start to
>creep up on you, little noices start to be noticed (bones grinding), etc.
>Just
>give it some TLC and you will enjoy years to come.
>

Well I wouldn't consider an 88 as being old at all. I never had trouble
with my 78 fuel tanks, and my 77 Bronco had a rusted line going into its
tank selector valve. And its plastic fuel times never leaked.

Perhaps the newer stuff is just made more complicated than it has to be.

Everything works on my 88 F-150 fuel tanks, but the gauges do read off like
usual. Our 87 diesel does the same thing too. Our 89 diesel has gauges that
are right on.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 22:00:47 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - another question

>Sooooo.......
>Nobody answered my question about what the spark should look like on my 84
>F150; fat and blue or thin and yellow? Dura-Spark ignition.
>
>Here's another question; If the truck stalls due to an electrical problem
>would it still require pumping of the gas pedal to restart it?
>
>302/carburator.
>
>Anybody have either answer?
>Anybody have *both* answers?

No it should have nothing to do with fuel if it quits because of spark.

A snappy blue or white spark is best. It should make a good loud snap.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 22:07:11 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: [Re: FTE 80-96 - 93-96 F150]

>What was the first year that they fuel-injected the 6? (I'm trying to
>avoid the 86-92 years as they were not my favorite models). If I do
>have to go with an older truck, what was the last year that the 6 came
>in the F250? I would prefer a fuel-injected engine as they are much
>nicer in winter (ie, I hate chokes). One last question - was the fuel
>injection a throttle body, or was it sequential?
>

We had an 86 300 and it had a carb. I think the injected ones started in 87
or 88. They were multiport, but not sequential. (unless maybe California)


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 22:28:56 EDT
From: Mobilepdr aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - MSD

How much does this msd6a cost...I've installed a hyperchip in my truck
will this work with it ..............ding
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 19:55:56 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - e-test

The e-test report lists the following possible causes for high CO
failure:

>Incorrect air/fuel mixture
>Dirty air cleaner, choke or carb/fuel injection
>Carb float level improperly adjusted
>Inoperative air pump
>Diluted lubricating oil
>Soaked fuel evaporative canister

>Here are my guesses:

>Should I try leaning out the idle mixture screws? (but HC looks ok)


Have the same problem with my 76.I have to lower the float and lean out
the idle mixture until it barely runs.Not too lean or you'll get a lean
miss.After e-test I put back in running condition.
Changing oil and air cleaner can't hurt either.
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 22:03:08 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Black Magic fan problem.....

Dude, if it burns up the toggle switch, then the problem is ABSOLUTELY
install.!!! The fan should be on a relay (afterall it pulls something near
20+ amps). There should be a Fat arse wire to the relay, a fat one to the
fan, and a light gauge (or two???) wires to the toggle, a/c, etc. I bet
someone knows better, but I'd bet a beer on it!!!

Dave H.
Houston (HOT_HOT_HOT) TX
92 F-150 S/C 5.0 / E4OD...ugh!!!
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 20:09:49 -0700
From: "Carry Copeland"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Beginner without a clue

I have an 83 Bronco with a 351M, variable venturi carb, and duraspark III
ignition. The engine wiring harness was butchered by a previous owner making
it impossible to troubleshoot. I am going to attempt to replace the harness.
What other years, if any, or other models, might I find the engine wiring
harness I'm looking for?

I would appreciate any help.

Reid Copeland
avsystems sprintmail.com

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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 20:22:30 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - another question

Spark should be fat and blue.Iif electrical fault kills engine, fuel should be there, may have to open throttle to allow air to flow.

Bob


Bob Hirsch wrote:

> Sooooo.......
> Nobody answered my question about what the spark should look like on my 84 F150; fat and blue or thin and yellow? Dura-Spark ignition.
>
> Here's another question; If the truck stalls due to an electrical problem would it still require pumping of the gas pedal to restart it?
>
> 302/carburator.
>
> Anybody have either answer?
> Anybody have *both* answers?
>
> Bob
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 23:27:15 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge//

Joe,
You can get the dual gauge pod for your truck through Summit. I think it was
like $35 total including shipping. This was the screw on pod set. They also
have an almost complete Apillar set that is like $100. You will need to get
some vinyl paint to color match the pods to the interior, unless it is black.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 23:40:04 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - MSD

In a message dated 7/29/99 10:31:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Mobilepdr ....


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