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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #211
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80-96-list-digest Thursday, July 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 211



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Wives and truck parts....
Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Mods
Re: FTE 80-96 - condensor??
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: ignition amp.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Guages
RE: FTE 80-96 - Gas Guages
Re: FTE 80-96 - BAD BAD NEWS!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - 84 F150 Brakes
FTE 80-96 - Re: Need help with Temperature Gauge
Re: FTE 80-96 - BAD BAD NEWS!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Guages
FTE 80-96 - Re: All I Know About Tires and Speedo
FTE 80-96 - coils and sparks
[none]
Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Mods
Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Mods
Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Mods
Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Mods
FTE 80-96 - E-Test Woes
Re: FTE 80-96 - ATF in the power steering ???
Re: FTE 80-96 - coils and sparks
Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Mods
Re: FTE 80-96 - New Paint Job
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bosch Platinum +4 plugs
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 1988 Bronco Restoration Body Panel Sources?
FTE 80-96 - Body trim tape
Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Guages
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge
Re: FTE 80-96 - Spark question
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Need help with Temperature Gauge
FTE 80-96 - Temp gauge.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 - BAD BAD news
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 1988 Bronco Restoration Body Panel Sources?
Re: FTE 80-96 - coils and sparks
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge
FTE 80-96 - 93-96 F150
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge
Re: FTE 80-96 - coils and sparks
Re: FTE 80-96 - 93-96 F150
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: ignition amp.
[none]
FTE 80-96 - MSD
Re: FTE 80-96 - Body trim tape

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 06:19:06 EDT
From: PSales264 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wives and truck parts....

Sounds like a bill clinton-ism!
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 06:46:03 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Mods

David,
What size motor does it have and what transmission? Also what gear ratio do
you have in the rear? These are determining factors also.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 06:49:07 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - condensor??

Bob,
Its not a condenser, its a noise filter. It stops ignition noise from going
into the radio and such.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 07:00:00 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: ignition amp.

Wayne ,what I'm referring to was an octagonal plastic/phenolic device about
2" across and 3" long.It had a recess in one end {for the coil wire} and a
lug on the other end to fit into the distributor cap where the coil wire came
out of. If it goes in series with the coil wire it cannot ''amplify''. I'm an
electrician and an electronics tech doing
industrial instrumentation for the past 30 years. The only way to get a
hotter ie.''higher voltage'' spark is to install a coil with more windings on
the ''secondary side''.I put secondary in quotes because the automotive coil
is really what is called an autotransformer.
>>>>>>Mike

Then I stand corrected sir. I thought you were referencing ANY ignition
amplifier.

Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 07:06:41 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Guages

Todd,
Can we do that on our trucks? Seems to me that I read a post somewhere that
the Ford intank pickups were of a different style that other trucks. That we
have a dual? pickup style that pulls the fuel up into a smaller area then out
into the line. I haven't had either of my tanks down yet, so don't blast me
for asking.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page


In a message dated 7/28/99 12:58:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
TMcMahon anacomp.com writes:


getting
rid of the OEM sending unit / fuel pumps altogether when I fix it. The
replacement OEM parts are going to be well over $300.00 each for me. For
that money, I'll drain and drop the tanks (or lift the bed off the truck)...
remove the defective unit... cover and seal the original hole (if
necessary)... then buy some generic (and SEPARATE) fuel pumps and sending
units from NAPA or something (cutting mounting holes into the tanks as
necessary). Hell, for that amount of money, time, and effort, I might just
look for some high capacity tanks that come with their own pumps and senders
- who knows. Right now (since I can't afford to do this at this time) I
keep both tanks full, drive one till it's empty, switch to the other, then
fill the empty one back up.

Thank God for dual tanks.... And low-tech solutions....

Todd
>>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:01:05 -0400
From: "Little, Ned"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Gas Guages

I thought I had found the perfect fix. Federal-Mogul/Carter makes a unit
for both the front and back tanks (part numbers P74522S and P74518S)for
under $100 each. I bought one of each and installed them. They worked
great until I switched from one tank to the other. When I switched my truck
would run out of gas right away and even when I switched back to the
original tank, it still would not run. I bought a new mechanical switch
from Ford and replaced the old one. The problem remained. After
considerable effort I found that each time I switched from a tank, I had to
crawl under the truck and bleed the pressure off of the supply gas line from
the tank I had switched from and then the 'switched to tank' would begin to
work. While investigating the problem, I discovered that the replacement
pumps that come with the Carter unit 'check' return flow on the supply line
while the OEM units do not. To verify this I let one tank run out of fuel
and then switched to the other tank. It switched perfectly under these
conditions. I have called their tech support line and e-mailed them but
they do not respond. So while my gas gauges work great, I have to run on a
tank of gas until it runs out before switching. That's what I am currently
doing. However, you can tell by looking at the sending unit portion that
its quality is considerably superior to the OEM version. The pump portion
of the units can be swapped so you might consider buying these units and
using the existing pumps on your current units.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Cliff McLarty [mailto:dadinc icu2.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 1999 9:40 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Gas Guages


I have an '88 F-150 (dual tanks) that has the devil of a time keeping gas
guages
operational. They register full at time of fill up, but will not register
any
fuel has been used until I am 3/4 empty on the tank. They have been
replaced
once before and the tech. said it was a sending unit bad. He also said all
Fords have this problem. My other Fords never did. Have any of you had the
same trouble? Any fixes out there? Thanks

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 07:10:15 -0700
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - BAD BAD NEWS!!

Chris, My replacement alt (frm Discount Auto Parts) came with a new plug for
the wiring harness. There were VERY specific instructions for replacing the
old plug and warranty was void if I didn't replace it. Parts guy said that
the fires were common.
Smeck,
87 F150

- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 1999 1:18 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - BAD BAD NEWS!!


> Hey guys, I have a '92 F 250 with a 351W in it and my alternator caught on
> fire today! From what I can see..it looks like the only wiring that got
> burnt up is the main wiring jack that goes into it (the alternator).
Thank
> goodness I had a fire extinguisher mounted in my truck or I don't know
what
> would've happened!! (I recommend all cars, trucks having one by the way!)
> Anyways, this is the SECOND time this has happened! The first time it
> happened was about 2 yrs ago and it burnt up some wires that wound up
costing
> me close to $1,000.00!! Have you guys ever heard of this happening so
> frequently?? The first time, some mechanics that I know told me that
since I
> had replaced the alternator with a rebuilt one, that was probably the
cause
> of it...it was probably a "bad" alternator. But with this one, I'm not
sure
> what the heck the problem is! This is a brand new alternator that I had
just
> replaced last August (1998). Anyways, I guess I'll take a better look at
it
> in the morning (it happened tonight)...
> Sorry to take up so much space guys but I need some help here! I know I
can
> replace the alternator and that wiring "jack," but I don't want it
happening
> again! What do you think??
>
> Thanks in advance!!
> Chris
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:07:26 -0500
From: Roy Houston
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 84 F150 Brakes

Troy, My power brake booster is a leaker. So bad it was making the truck
idle extremely rough. I just disconnected the line and plugged it. It's a
little tougher to stop, and every time I get in the wife's van I nearly eat
the dashboard. Loosing the booster won't make it impossible to stop. So
you're safe.

I've got a few goodies to change out and I'm waitin' for some cooler days,
if they ever get here!

Roy

At 09:01 PM 7/27/99 , you wrote:
>On 14 Jul 99, at 20:19, Bob Kennedy wrote:
>
>>The piston to the booster is what sticks through the firewall and your
>brake pedal
>>attaches to it. It has a seal that compresses with the pedal when you push
>it down. If
>>the seal is worn,you'll get the hiss when you step on the pedal. As the
>seal worsens so
>>does the hiss, into a full time leak. Mine started at like a high pitched
>whistle, then
>>degraded to the hiss.
>
>I see. But if it has a slight hiss, it's not going to cause the truck to
>loose the brakes altogether anytime soon is it? I'm thinking about
>putting this one off until we get some cooler weather.
>
>You might be a redneck if... You get homesick watching cops.
> - Jeff Foxworthy
>
>
>Troy Williams
>________________________________________________________
>NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet. Shouldn't you?
>Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
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Roy Houston Richmond, TX (Houston 'burb)
85 F-150XL SC 351W H.O 4V
houston1 _at_ slb _dot_ com
houzoodad _at_ aol _dot_ com
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 11:00:38 -0500
From: "DannyF"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Need help with Temperature Gauge

This subject has been discusssed by Ford techs and more
knowledgeable Ford DIYers in the newsgroups.

Bottom line is a lot of the Ford temp gauges are not true 0 - 260
degree gauges. That is they only have about 4 positions. They are
incremental. You have C, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and max or H needle
positions and that about it. Another penny saver from Ford.

As an unrelated note on multi/unique-electrode spark plugs.
Splitfire(commonly referred to as "Shitfire") pioneered this
marketing ploy ~5years ago and even the reputable plugs mgfs
followed because suckers were buying them. No dyno has ever
proved them to be beneficial in either gas mileage or power. Some
engines run worse w/them but that can be said for more reputable
brands also. Some engines just seem to be particular about the
plug design.

However, the platinum plugs can last much longer in *some*
engines. Rarely any power/mph gains just longer electrode life.
This seems particularly true for some of the imports.

Danny
>
> >
> >Can someone tell me if it is worth fixing the temperature gauge in my 1987
> >F-150 or should I install a seperate gauge for this.
> >
> >I have checked the resistance of the sensor and it reads correctly at cold,
> >warm, and hot. Problem is that the gauge is always at the low end.
> >
> >How do I get to the gauge in the instrument cluster and when (and if) I do,
> >how can I check it? Is there a connector under the hood that I should
> check
> >first to see if there is voltage getting to the gauge? All other gauges
> >work OK...except for the foulded up gas gauges but everyone knows about
> >those.
> >
> >Thanks for your help
> >
> >

Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 09:04:43 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - BAD BAD NEWS!!

Two fires in the same area, two different alternators. I think I'd start checking
for wiring problems before I burnt another one.

Bob


CRGREENE1 aol.com wrote:

> Hey guys, I have a '92 F 250 with a 351W in it and my alternator caught on
> fire today! From what I can see..it looks like the only wiring that got
> burnt up is the main wiring jack that goes into it (the alternator). Thank
> goodness I had a fire extinguisher mounted in my truck or I don't know what
> would've happened!! (I recommend all cars, trucks having one by the way!)
> Anyways, this is the SECOND time this has happened! The first time it
> happened was about 2 yrs ago and it burnt up some wires that wound up costing
> me close to $1,000.00!! Have you guys ever heard of this happening so
> frequently?? The first time, some mechanics that I know told me that since I
> had replaced the alternator with a rebuilt one, that was probably the cause
> of it...it was probably a "bad" alternator. But with this one, I'm not sure
> what the heck the problem is! This is a brand new alternator that I had just
> replaced last August (1998). Anyways, I guess I'll take a better look at it
> in the morning (it happened tonight)...
> Sorry to take up so much space guys but I need some help here! I know I can
> replace the alternator and that wiring "jack," but I don't want it happening
> again! What do you think??
>
> Thanks in advance!!
> Chris
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 12:12:13 -0700
From: Pat Murphy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Guages

Hi Cliff,

My 89 F-250 with dual tanks has the same problem, only fix I know of is
replacing the sender units in each tank. I let it go and use the trip
odometer for my guage. If you drop the tanks to do the work, you should
replace the in tank fuel pumps right away to eliminate any future fuel
pump problems. Good luck.

Pat Murphy
Slatington Pa.

Cliff McLarty wrote:
>
> I have an '88 F-150 (dual tanks) that has the devil of a time keeping gas guages
> operational. They register full at time of fill up, but will not register any
> fuel has been used until I am 3/4 empty on the tank. They have been replaced
> once before and the tech. said it was a sending unit bad. He also said all
> Fords have this problem. My other Fords never did. Have any of you had the
> same trouble? Any fixes out there? Thanks
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 10:20:18 -0700
From: redmist mb.sympatico.ca
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: All I Know About Tires and Speedo

D.B. McDonald wrote:
>
> To get on the list go to
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off -road. com /4x4web/ford/bigbroncos/ and click on
> Mailing List at the left of the screen.
>
> I honestly doubt that anyone would know anything exept offer
> you the same directions I gave you. This topic is hardly
> ever discussed and I'd bet most members don't even know that
> this can be done. I think it might be easier to bite the
> bullet and punch that button a thousand times if you have
> to.
>
> Brett
>
> redmist mb.sympatico.ca wrote:
> >
> > D.B. McDonald wrote:
> > > I think that if you hold the button down and wait it
> > > will start to advance quickly.
> >
> > I thought of that, and held it down for a couple of seconds, and nothing
> > happened. I'll try for longer tomorrow. Maybe someone on the Bronco
> > list will know. How do I get on it, from the FTE website?? I'll check
> > it out.
> >
> > > To increase the speedo you need to increase the constant. In
> > > your case at 9.8% it from 967 it should be 1053.
> >
> > That's what I thought. I'll try again tomorrow. I still have 6 tries
> > left. ~;O)
> >
> > Later,
> >
> > Shel

Just so you know, to increase the speedo, you have to REDUCE the
constant. I went up to 1054. The engine revved like crazy and I could
tell I was going pretty fast on the highway (I my home fronts on the
highway so it was easy to test it). I went down to 880 and it made a
lot more sense and worked fine. I wasted a burn, but I still have 4
left, so that's okay. Just thought I should let you know in case you
sent this info to someone who was short on burns or you tried to do this
yourself. You definitely have to go the opposite. To go up in tire
size, you reduce the constant. I confirmed this with a Ford Tech before
I tried it the second time. Made sense, because the thing *wanted* to
go down first . Since it is unlikely that someone would go to smaller
tires than factory, my gut told me to go down, that's why I asked. FYI,
the dash went down to about 500, and then flipped around to 1100 and
then back down again. I guess they didn't figure anyone would go much
smaller than 235/75R15's. Anyway, I still saved $100 bucks CDN....
I've copied this to the Ford lists, so if anyone wants to try this, they
will know to go down (mine went from 967CAL to 880CAL) to go *up* in
tire size.

Thanks a lot for your help,

Sheldon Charron,
Manitoba, Canada
~:O)

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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 14:02:10 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - coils and sparks

> If you think they don't work, I have a coil wire
> I want you to hold while I crank over my motor.
> You wont be holding it for very long...trust me.

Even the standard DuraSpark II coils put out
somewhere in the vicinity of 44000 volts of
"pulsating DC" ... you don't want to hold on
to one of those for very long either.

Aftermarket coils that have a higher voltage
output most likely have more windings in the
secondary, and thats where your stronger spark
comes from.



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Date: 28 Jul 99 11:12:51 PDT
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: [none]

I'm really glad I joined this list--you folks are the best source of
information around. It's like dropping into a tavern where everybody is
interested in the same thing--doesn't happen often!

I'm getting a little nervous, since the gauges in my 82 F100 still work l=
ike
they should. And my alternator isn't on fire. No brake boost problem si=
nce
the booster is on the end of my leg. And what can go wrong with a 3-spee=
d
tranny--except when Doofus 'alters' the Hurst conversion bracket and has =
to
fab a new one.

Just two issues:

- --ignition systems/amplifiers/gadgets--has anyone tried and kept records =
on
any of them? Jacobs, Crane, MSD, snake oil? Be good to share the info w=
ith
everyone. For me, Splitfires actually made a 9% mileage boost, tested ov=
er
1000 miles against 1,000 miles on Autolites. =


- --fuel gauges--why do we rely entirely on toilet ball/resistance coil gau=
ges? =

I'd love a flowmeter that used an impeller in the fuel line and read out =
in
tenths of gallons to show me how much has gone into the carb. Standard ga=
uges
will keep you from running out, but they ain't precision devices. Anybod=
y in
the flowmeter business?

Appreciate the info, advice, and good humor

Bill in Portland

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webm=
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 15:04:50 EDT
From: BigFords1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Mods

It has a 351, 3 speed, 3.05 rearend and a 2 barrel carb
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 12:32:39 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Mods

What Ignition system, EEC-III,IV, Duraspark I or II?

Bob


BigFords1 aol.com wrote:

> It has a 351, 3 speed, 3.05 rearend and a 2 barrel carb
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 15:35:26 EDT
From: BigFords1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Mods

In a message dated 7/28/99 3:34:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bobkennedy uswest.net writes:

>
I have no idea. How do I find out?
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 12:56:10 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Mods

I must apologize, I fear I responded to you post when in reality it was
another I was supposed to respond to...sorry.

Bob


BigFords1 aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 7/28/99 3:34:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> bobkennedy uswest.net writes:
>
> >
> I have no idea. How do I find out?
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 14:06:56 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E-Test Woes

Yo Gang:

My 1980 F250 failed its first emissions test since I bought the truck in 1993.
The only failure was idle CO%. At idle (which the test station recorded as 1177
rpm) the test measured 2.19% CO.

In Colorado where I live, the standard for my truck is 1.5% CO and 400 ppm HC.
On 1981 or older vehicles, the only tests are for HC (ppm) and CO (%) at idle
and at 2500 rpm. No treadmill/dyno tests.

Here are the details of my engine configuration:

351M, all stock, except for slightly richer Mustang carburetor (installed a
little over 1 year ago and e-tested then w/ no probs). Catalyst equipped (under
8500 GVW). EGR disabled. Thermactor AIR system working w/ bypass valve
connected according to vac schematic on original emissions label. Evap canister
and hoses connected according to same. Ignition is stock DuraSpark II w/
Mallory ProMaster coil, Accel 8.8 spiral-wound wires, and Accel cap & rotor set,
new #25 (OEM spec HR) Autolite plugs. Timing is set to 12 BTDC (10 BTDC is
spec). Exhaust system all stock, except cat-back 2.5" single pipe and Dynomax
Super Turbo muffler.

Last year, right after installing and adjusting the freshly rebuilt Mustang carb
(Motorcraft 2150 2V), the truck e-tested as follows:

idle (906 rpm) 0.03% CO, 50.5 ppm HC, 12.91% CO2
2383 rpm 0.23% CO, 44 ppm HC, 11.45% CO2

This year, the results are:

idle (1177 rpm) 2.19% CO, 57.6 ppm HC, 12.57% CO2
2243 rpm 0.48% CO, 37.3 ppm HC, 12.54% CO2

Comparing the two test results, the only thing that jumps out is the (way)
higher CO. High rpm CO has doubled and idle CO has skyrocketed!

Other than routine maintenance (spark plugs, oil & filter changes), the only
engine-related change between the tests is a new 4-row radiator and thermostat.
A few weeks after the new 195 degree thermostat (OEM spec) went in, my temp
gauge started showing cold most of the time. I am assuming it may be a wiring
problem, defective temp sensor, or possibly a defective thermostat. Overall,
the engine seems to be running fine.

Over the last few weeks, I have noticed an intermittent high rpm power loss
(usually when accelerating hard over 2K rpm) and I am suspecting the mechanical
fuel pump. Fuel and air filters have been changed w/ no affect on the problem.
Also, while changing the oil last weekend, I discovered the throttle return
spring that attaches to the bracket beside the carb is broken. I'm running w/
just the coil return spring on the throttle shaft temporarily.

The e-test report lists the following possible causes for high CO failure:

Incorrect air/fuel mixture
Dirty air cleaner, choke or carb/fuel injection
Carb float level improperly adjusted
Inoperative air pump
Diluted lubricating oil
Soaked fuel evaporative canister

Here are my guesses:

Should I try leaning out the idle mixture screws? (but HC looks ok)
Could a faulty fuel pump contribute to float level probs that would cause this
failure?
Could a defective thermostat making the engine run cooler than normal cause that
high CO?
Could the (maybe original 19-yr old) cat converter be going bad? (HC reading
still looks pretty good, though)

I'm feeling kind of stupid taking the truck in for the e-test w/ a possibly bad
fuel pump, but I figured that wouldn't affect it. This truck has always passed
w/ flying colors. Its worst year (though still passing) was when I got the EGR
plumbing corrected and had EGR operating properly. The next year, I
disconnected it again and emissions tested much cleaner.

Thanks for your help.

Dave R (the M-block guy)


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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 16:02:49 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ATF in the power steering ???

>> What was this about using automatic
>> transmission fluid in the power steering
>> unit?
>
>'tis true ... check it out in your owners
>manual, or the Chilton's or Haynes
>manual for your truck. Ford recommends
>using ATF in the power steering pump
>reservior, but you can also use the
>generic "power steering fluid". ATF and
>"power steering fluid" are soluble and
>compatible, but straight ATF is less
>expensive and works just as good.
>
>

I have used it for years with no problem. But now some companies say not to
use it. Basically all you need is hydraulic oil, which has anti-foaming
additives. I have also run motor oil and even some 90 wt in a very leaking
system in the summer with no problem.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 16:21:45 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - coils and sparks

>> If you think they don't work, I have a coil wire
>> I want you to hold while I crank over my motor.
>> You wont be holding it for very long...trust me.
>
>Even the standard DuraSpark II coils put out
>somewhere in the vicinity of 44000 volts of
>"pulsating DC" ... you don't want to hold on
>to one of those for very long either.
>
>Aftermarket coils that have a higher voltage
>output most likely have more windings in the
>secondary, and thats where your stronger spark
>comes from.
>

Ever get zapped by a Model T coil? High voltage is nothing new.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 16:14:09 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Mods

>I'm planning on installing dual 3 inch pipes with glass packs and a K&N air
>filter. I won't have a cat on at all. What horsepower, torque, and mileage
>increases can I expect? Thanks.
>

I switched mine over from headers, dual exhaust and no cats to shorty
headers, single exhaust, factory cats, and no muffler. I see a power
increase and no milage decrease.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 16:06:40 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Paint Job

>I am getting my 1984 ford F-150 re painted. I am
>hoping for some suggestions as to what colors and such
>look good on this year and model. Can any one please
>let me know of some websites or email me pictures of
>your own trucks? This paint job and along with other
>stuff is going to cost quite a bit of money so I would
>like to be happy with it when its over. Thanks... any
>suggestions would be more than helpful!
>~*Tracy*~

Scan a line drawing of a truck like yours and, using photoshop or
illustrator or something, paint in the colors you are thinking about and
see how it looks.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 15:35:05 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bosch Platinum +4 plugs

>i have had experience with the standard bosch platinums and was badly upset
>by their perfomance. Mainly because 2 of 6 tips came out in my engine.
>this cant be good for pistons. so i dont recommend them at all.
>

I was also very unhappy with them. Stick with American parts. I have used
Platinum Autolite plugs with no problem.

Bosch is a good name in diesel fuel systems and magnetos, but I think they
failed on these spark plugs.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 15:27:19 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 1988 Bronco Restoration Body Panel Sources?

>Hi ,
> I am looking for the rather rare and hard to find 1988 full size Bronco
>replacement body panel sources. I specifically need the rear fender well arch
>openings (outside ) that typically rust on these fords. I have some back
>ordered thriugh J.C. Whitneys special order dept. but the date keeps getting
>moved back....they are telling me late august now..!!! ...Anyone have any
>othere sources or suggestions I may try to finish this body restoration work
>that is on hold due to lack of parts?......
> Thanks ,

If all you need is the piece around the fender cut out, won't the
replacement ones for a truck work?

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 22:56:54 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnar_Huse?=
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Body trim tape

My 1990 E-250 Club Wagon (maroon/silver) (see at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://bryggen.bgnett.no/~bjornar/van.html ) has recently been fixed due to
a mishap and an out-of-shape Toyota HiAce. My drivers side fender has been
changed, and the new one was painted like the original, but the trim tape is
no longer available through Ford in Norway. Can any one of you please help
with asking your Ford dealer/body shop if this trim tape set is available,
and at what price?
My body shop is at a loss of what to do, but they will consider a cash
refund if I accept the van as it is and try to fix the lines myself. (Of
course a finders' fee is in order!)

Thanks so much in advance!

Regards,
Bjornar Huse
Aalesund, Norway
1990 E-250 7.3d Club Wagon, 3.54, E4OD
1994 Ford Escort 1.3i
1947 Studebaker M-15
1995 kid, 1999 kid, 1971 wife


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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 17:42:49 -0400
From: Cliff McLarty
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Guages

Thanks to all who gave some great ideas. Since I am a "tighwad", looks like I will
continue doing what i'm doing now. (use the odometer and watch the guages). Again,
thanks.

Pat Murphy wrote:

> Hi Cliff,
>
> My 89 F-250 with dual tanks has the same problem, only fix I know of is
> replacing the sender units in each tank. I let it go and use the trip
> odometer for my guage. If you drop the tanks to do the work, you should
> replace the in tank fuel pumps right away to eliminate any future fuel
> pump problems. Good luck.
>
> Pat Murphy
> Slatington Pa.
>
> Cliff McLarty wrote:
> >
> > I have an '88 F-150 (dual tanks) that has the devil of a time keeping gas guages
> > operational. They register full at time of fill up, but will not register any
> > fuel has been used until I am 3/4 empty on the tank. They have been replaced
> > once before and the tech. said it was a sending unit bad. He also said all
> > Fords have this problem. My other Fords never did. Have any of you had the
> > same trouble? Any fixes out there? Thanks
> >
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 17:44:19 -0400
From: Cliff McLarty
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge

I agree with Michael. If mine gets half way, it's too hot.

Michael McCarthy wrote:

> I have the same problem? with my '85 F-150. I just learned to live with it.
> I tried everything I know to fix it and I gave up. I can tell you that when
> my temp gauge is at half scale the truck is overheated. I'll be interested
> to see what others have to say about this issue.
>
> Michael McCarthy
> Export, PA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Neff, Charles
> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Date: Tuesday, July 27, 1999 6:54 PM
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge
>
> >
> >Can someone tell me if it is worth fixing the temperature gauge in my 1987
> >F-150 or should I install a seperate gauge for this.
> >
> >I have checked the resistance of the sensor and it reads correctly at cold,
> >warm, and hot. Problem is that the gauge is always at the low end.
> >
> >How do I get to the gauge in the instrument cluster and when (and if) I do,
> >how can I check it? Is there a connector under the hood that I should
> check
> >first to see if there is voltage getting to the gauge? All other gauges
> >work OK...except for the foulded up gas gauges but everyone knows about
> >those.
> >
> >Thanks for your help
> >
> >
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>
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 19:48:19 -0400
From: Bob Hirsch
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Spark question

My 84 F150 has a Dura-spark II ignition. I've been troublehooting a "stall when hot" problem and have question on doing a spark test.
I pulled one of the spark plugs out of the motor and plugged it back into it's own ignition wire. I then ran a ground wire from the body of the plug to the truck ground.

When I crank the ignition I get a spark, but its small and yellow.
I thought it should be fat and blue.
How's it supposed to look?
Thanks.


72/73 de Bob, W3CW
New Hope Pennsylvania
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 19:56:05 -0400
From: Bob Hirsch
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge

If the temp gauge is showing normal, and the truck is running, what are you guys using to know it's overheating?

72/73 de Bob, W3CW
New Hope Pennsylvania
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 10:12:47 +1000
From: les
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Need help with Temperature Gauge

On Thursday, July 29, 1999 2:01 AM, DannyF [SMTP:danf01 worldnet.att.net]
wrote:
: This subject has been discusssed by Ford techs and more
: knowledgeable Ford DIYers in the newsgroups.
:
: Bottom line is a lot of the Ford temp gauges are not true 0 - 260
: degree gauges. That is they only have about 4 positions. They are
: incremental. You have C, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and max or H needle
: positions and that about it. Another penny saver from Ford.
:

Hi All,
So what your saying is, to get reasonable gauge readings, be it Temp or
Fuel, and I'm sure the ammeter is not much better, (doesn't leave much does
it ?) toss them all out and replace with SVO/AUTOMETER type units ? Does
Ford make money out of the SVO parts? :^) One thing I hate, is looking at
dead gauges, or worst still, a meter that tells pork pies!!

BTW: Down here, due to the conversion to RHD the speedo ends up being
partially obstructed by the steering wheel. Hmmm, I'm getting that
customised instrument cluster feeling, again. It sure would fix a lot of
small annoying problems.

BTWII: Robert Bosch products rule supreme in Oz Ford (and others')
products, Dizzys's, Alternators S/Motors etc. I suppose it's all part of
the Aust. Content Rules.

Regards.

Les W.
The Land of Oz



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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 19:27:08 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Temp gauge.

Apparently someone figured it out before 92, mine works.
However, when it fails (if) I will put in an aftermarket
temp, and oil cluster. Should be a 2 beer job!!!

Dave H.
Houston

You might be a redneck, if you go to family reunions
to get dates! Jeff Foxworthy
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 20:51:49 EDT
From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge

same here..just bought a black magic flexlight fan that operates off the ac
and a manual switch and has its own tstat to tell the fan when to come on at
a certain temp. was very impressed with it at first it kept the truck cool
sittin in traffic but now i had to put the shroud back on and put the stock
fan back on cause it was overheatin. the guy that installed the fan for me
installed a key hot wire which he spliced into the positive wire of my msd
6al box which fried the box very ticked but performance shop gave me a new
one no prob no ques so that resolved that. now the fan(which has a power
wire goin to the positive side of the ac compressor) doesnt come on when ac
is turned on.......tried to install manual switch which keeps overheatin and
groundin out and meltin the dam* wire which melt the toggle.. so now the 200
dollar fan is no better than a autozone/pepboys 100 dollar fan...anyone got
any suggestions on how to fix this its goin back to the perforamance shop
tomorrow for my bud to look at and see if it is the fan or the
install?????????HELP ford fun weekend at bristol is comin its goin to be hot
need fan to work..

thanks

luke welden
94 f150
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 18:11:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tracy H
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 - BAD BAD news

I am really sorry to hear about your truck Chris! My
brother had a 92 F-150 and the same thing happened to
it, but unfortonally he didn't have a fire
extinguisher. He did get the fire put out (a person
came by with a fire extinguisher), but it was too late
and because of the extensive damage to the wires,
transmission, alternator etc. they wrote it off. = (
He wasn't a happy camper! I can say that much!.
He had several ppl look over the truck (an autopsy if
you will... hehe) and each one said a different thing
started the whole mess. But one person said that
several 92 fords have burn up because of faulty wiring
and alternators. Well, I know I haven't be much help
on the technical stuff, but I thought ya might like to
know that you aren't alone on this one! = P Well I
hope you get it all worked out (with out any more
problems!). Bye for now!
~*Tracy*~

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 21:14:07 EDT
From: LGRanch aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 1988 Bronco Restoration Body Panel Sources?

In a message dated 7/28/1999 4:41:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
blake little-mountain.com writes:


>>
try fenderworld.com. I'm pretty sure they have wheel arches. Tell them you
are with the forum and they will ship outside Michigan
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 18:16:38 -0700
From: Rob
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - coils and sparks

>
> Even the standard DuraSpark II coils put out
> somewhere in the vicinity of 44000 volts of
> "pulsating DC" ... you don't want to hold on
> to one of those for very long either.
>
> Aftermarket coils that have a higher voltage
> output most likely have more windings in the
> secondary, and thats where your stronger spark
> comes from.
>

The coil will only build voltage until the plug sparks. If the spark
jumps at 24,000 volts, that is all the voltage that will be produced for
that spark. Putting a coil in place that can produce 60,000 volts won't
change a thning. It will only produce what is required to fire the
plug.
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 21:28:22 EDT
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge

Luke,
Check wire size, amperage of unit, amperage of switch, all
connections, loose connections are bad news - especially in DC circuits. Did
the t-stat come with the fan? Check for contact rating of t-stat (amps).
Good luck.
Bill B.
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 18:29:40 -0700
From: Rob
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 93-96 F150

I'm considering buying a 93-96 F150 4x2 or 4x4 with a 4.9L & manual
trans. I haven't owned a pickup in a few years, so I'm kind of out of
the loop as to what's happening.

I know that the 4.9 is a good engine (owned one before) but I'm not sure
about the tranny's that they are putting in those trucks. My last F150
was a '85 and that had the good old tough as nails 4 speed (granny
first, no OD).

I could possibly be pulling a trailer of up to about 2500lbs - once a
year for short distances (under 500 miles). Other than that, it would
mostly be used for short distance commuting.

Any comments would be appreciated (good, bad or otherwise). My Taurus
is starting to get tired and it's time to start looking for a real
vehicle again.

Thanks, Rob
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 21:34:12 EDT
From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need help with Temperature Gauge

the fan came all in one it is custom cut for the mustang 5.0.....no loose
conections....so i aint got no clue thanks for input

luke
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 19:47:44 -0600
From: "Mike"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - coils and sparks

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rob
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, July 28, 1999 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - coils and sparks


>>
>> Even the standard DuraSpark II coils put out
>> somewhere in the vicinity of 44000 volts of
>> "pulsating DC" ... you don't want to hold on
>> to one of those for very long either.
>>
>> Aftermarket coils that have a higher voltage
>> output most likely have more windings in the
>> secondary, and thats where your stronger spark
>> comes from.
>>
>
>The coil will only build voltage until the plug sparks. If the spark
>jumps at 24,000 volts, that is all the voltage that will be produced for
>that spark. Putting a coil in place that can produce 60,000 volts won't
>change a thning. It will only produce what is required to fire the
>plug.


That's why you increase the gap as you increase the coil output.

mike


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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 22:34:10 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 93-96 F150

>I'm considering buying a 93-96 F150 4x2 or 4x4 with a 4.9L & manual
>trans. I haven't owned a pickup in a few years, so I'm kind of out of
>the loop as to what's happening.
>
>I know that the 4.9 is a good engine (owned one before) but I'm not sure
>about the tranny's that they are putting in those trucks. My last F150
>was a '85 and that had the good old tough as nails 4 speed (granny
>first, no OD).
>
>I could possibly be pulling a trailer of up to about 2500lbs - once a
>year for short distances (under 500 miles). Other than that, it would
>mostly be used for short distance commuting.
>
>Any comments would be appreciated (good, bad or otherwise). My Taurus
>is starting to get tired and it's time to start looking for a real
>vehicle again.
>

The 300 six cylinder is a good engine. It is not as sporty of an engine as
the V-8s because you can not wind it up and really take off quickly like
they can, but it is a good puller.

Try to find a truck with a ZF transmission, rather than the Mazda 5 speed
as it is quite weak. I think it is a Mazda and Ranger truck transmission
and some technition though it would hold up in regular trucks.

The Borg Warner T-18 4 speed you had in your 85 most likely can't be beat
by anything Ford offers.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 19:54:37 -0700
From: "Mike Salomone"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: ignition amp.

Todd,
Damn ...I knew I should of kep my mouth shut.
Well... here goes.
E=IxR,...R=E/I,...I=E/R....These are all algebraically
equivalent.
E=voltage (volts), I=current(amps), R=resistance(ohms)
If you don't change the coil, the voltage stays the
same.The only way then, to
get higher amperage, is to decrease resistance.
Follow...12v system 24ohm parking light lamp=1/2 amp.
12volts 12ohm driving lamp =
1amp
12volts 3ohm headlight
=4amps
12volts 0.001ohm piece of
wire=12,000amps meltdown
remember the last time you laid a wrench on the battery
and it got between the + and the body.Lots of amps!!!!
Since the coil (autotransformer) secondary, through the
sparkplug,
is a series circuit, there is no way, adding anything
to the circuit, can DEcrease resistance.
I don't understand how any device can ''force a larger
amperage buildup'',since the
resistance [the spark gap] remains the same.
You are right about increasing the gap, that WILL
increase the current=amps=amount of energy.
My best guess,without taking one apart,is that the
ignition amplifiers add an AC
component to the DC voltage pulse caused by the
collapse of the coils' magnetic field
as the points open.
Okay okay.... no points!, transistor switch
ie.electronic ignition.
This is how the new small welders work you get a small
high frequency AC
arc to form between the rod and the work.Then the air
gap begins to ionize and the DC component containing
the power (amps) can flow more easily and at a further
distance than DC alone.
Any other ideas.I'm open.
As for the three to eight sparks,dud I dunno!
Happpy Trails
Mike Salomone aka mickeys sedona.net

- ----- Original Message -----
From: McMahon, Todd R.
To:
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 1999 10:08 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: ignition amp.


Mike,

Don't confuse voltage with amperage.... Most of the
spark amplifiers are
forcing a larger amperage build-up and not an increase
in voltage.

In the old-days you simply increased the spark plug's
gap a bit, so that the
amount of energy required to get the spark to jump the
gap was greater. Now
they've even got plugs with air-gaps built into them
inside the ceramic to
do the same thing.

I have however heard about a device that is supposed to
fire the spark plugs
more than once, in order to get a more complete burn
(something like 3 to 8
sparks instead of one).

Ever hear about them?

Todd

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Salomone [mailto:mickeys sedona.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 1999 8:02 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: ignition amp.

Wayne ,what I'm referring to was a octagonal
plastic/phenolic
device about 2" across and 3" long.It had a recess in
one end {for the coil wire}
and a lug on the other end to fit into the distributor
cap where the coil wire came out of.
If it goes in series with the coil wire it cannmot
''amplify''.
I'm an electrician and an electronics tech doing
industrial instrumentation
for the past 30 years.
The only way to get a hotter ie.''higher voltage ''
spark is to install a coil with
more windings on the ''secondary side''.I put secondary
in quotes because the
automotive coil is really what is called an
autotransformer.
>>>>>>Mike

- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To: ;
Sent: Monday, July 26, 1999 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Mileage/power


In a message dated 7/27/99 12:10:54 AM Eastern Daylight
Time,
mickeys sedona.net writes:


was a
youngster.
It's snake oil, friends!!!!!!!
>>
Hmmm..then I guess the MSD, Jacobs, Accel, Holley, and
Crane ignition
amplifiers are all snake oil too? If you think they
don't work, I have a coil
wire I want you to hold while I crank over my motor.
You wont be holding it
for very long...trust me.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC (MSD 6AL equipped)

HREF="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/index.html">Wayne's
Page
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