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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #207
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80-96-list-digest Sunday, July 25 1999 Volume 03 : Number 207



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - RE: Off topic SUV similar to a UAV
FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion
FTE 80-96 - RE: 1988 Bronco Restoration Body Panel Sources?
Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 F-150 running rich & low vacuum
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-lNew Ford Owner
FTE 80-96 - 18/39 x 16.5 M.T and Weld rims for sale! $2,000 for only $600
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-lNew Ford Owner
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion
FTE 80-96 - another problem
FTE 80-96 - Trucking Safely
FTE 80-96 - Exhaust system
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion
Re: FTE 80-96 - E-250 Destroyed
Re: FTE 80-96 - E-250 Destroyed
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion
Re: FTE 80-96 - Transfer Case Trouble??
Re: FTE 80-96 - Transfer Case Trouble??
FTE 80-96 - Looking for an Altenator
FTE 80-96 - Wife's coffee killed my stereo!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Wife's coffee killed my stereo!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion
Re: FTE 80-96 - another problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - another problem
FTE 80-96 - Starting Troubles...

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 20:16:49 +1000
From: les
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Off topic SUV similar to a UAV

On Thursday, July 22, 1999 9:14 PM, FLR150 aol.com [SMTP:FLR150 aol.com]
wrote:
: SUV=Sport Utility Vehicle, Suburban Underpowered Vehicle,
: Many other definitions also, but the most common is the first one!
: Later
: Wayne Foy
: '94 Flareside SC (5,000 LB Traffic Clearing Device, even at a lowered
stance!)


Thank You All,
No, I wasn't even close with my guesses. I was way of line with the letter
'S'
Down here the same class of vehicle is lovingly :^) referred to as UAV's
- Urban Assault Vehicles and a lot of the owners do truly believe they
are Unassailable.


Regards.

Les W.
The Land of Oz
.


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 07:14:28 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion

I have purchased an AC conversion kit to convert the AC in my '88 E-350 from
R-12 to R-134a. I have read all of the warnings and precautions regarding
the conversion and I still have a few questions.

The instructions say to charge the system with 80%-85% of its capacity.
Without a pressure gauge how do you tell when the system is at 80% to 85% of
its capacity?

Curiosity - The instructions say that the system must be free of R-12 before
putting the R-134a in the system. However, everything I read indicates that
it is an EPA regulation but nobody mentions any danger associated with
mixing R-12 and R-134a. Is there any danger to either me or my AC system if
there is a little R-12 remaining in the system when I ad the R-134a?

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 08:30:41 EDT
From: WVAIL3 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: 1988 Bronco Restoration Body Panel Sources?

Hi ,
I am looking for the rather rare and hard to find 1988 full size Bronco
replacement body panel sources. I specifically need the rear fender well arch
openings (outside ) that typically rust on these fords. I have some back
ordered thriugh J.C. Whitneys special order dept. but the date keeps getting
moved back....they are telling me late august now..!!! ...Anyone have any
othere sources or suggestions I may try to finish this body restoration work
that is on hold due to lack of parts?......
Thanks ,

Bud :- }
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 08:38:14 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 F-150 running rich & low vacuum

More Vacuum leak / MAP information.

A vacuum leak causes the MAP sensor to indicate a higher than normal
pressure (less vacuum) in the manifold, which makes the computer think that
the engine is under much more load than it really is. As a result the
ignition timing is retarded and the fuel mixture is richened.

BTW - to convert from psi to in-Hg (inches of Mercury) multiply the psi
reading by 2 (roughly). To convert in-Hg to psi multiply in-Hg by 0.5
(roughly).

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: Baldwin, Dave (CPCP Design)
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Friday, July 23, 1999 10:54 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - '86 F-150 running rich & low vacuum


>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: CphgnCwby1 aol.com [mailto:CphgnCwby1 aol.com]
>>
>> Low manifold vacuum: 9-11 in. HG at idle.... should be between 16-22
>> Codes: 42-O2 sensor indicates rich
>> 25-Knock sensor- little change in signal
>> 22-map- out-of-normal range
>> Fuel pressure is fine (koeo- 35/koer-32)
>
>Is this pressure 35psi/32psi? This is high. I don't know what it is
>supposed to be offhand, but I think it's supposed to be more like 18-19
psi.
>Check it out and see.
>
>Dave Baldwin
>Dallas, TX.
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 08:30:48 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion

At 07:14 24/07/99 -0400, Michael McCarthy wrote:
>I have purchased an AC conversion kit to convert the AC in my '88 E-350 from
>R-12 to R-134a. I have read all of the warnings and precautions regarding
>the conversion and I still have a few questions.
>
>The instructions say to charge the system with 80%-85% of its capacity.
>Without a pressure gauge how do you tell when the system is at 80% to 85% of
>its capacity?

If you know the refrigerant capacity of your system in lb. and oz. of R-12,
then you can put 80-85% of that into your system in R-134a. That's how.
Pressure guage will not really tell you. But I'm not so sure you should try
to do this conversion without pressure guages.

>Curiosity - The instructions say that the system must be free of R-12 before
>putting the R-134a in the system. However, everything I read indicates that
>it is an EPA regulation but nobody mentions any danger associated with
>mixing R-12 and R-134a. Is there any danger to either me or my AC system if
>there is a little R-12 remaining in the system when I ad the R-134a?

The EPA regulation side of it is that they want all of the R-12 sucked out
and stored up in a bottle, not vented into the atmosphere. You do that with
a fancy A/C service system. Then if you vent your R-134a system at a later
time, the R-12 is not in there to get into the atmosphere.

From a practical standpoint, it is my understanding that the system will
perform better if you get as close to 100% R-134a in the system as you can.
That might just be folklore, though.

Let us know how it goes.
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 10:02:18 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion

Jim,
Thanks for the wake up call. I was interpreting the label on the AC unit
(3.5 lbs.) as pressure rather than volume (mass). Duh!!!
The label calls for 3.5 lbs w/o the auxiliary unit and 4.5 lbs. with the
auxiliary unit. (Wonder what that means?)
Let's see 4.5 lbs. = 72 ounces. Each can is 12 oz. so I need 6 cans and only
3 came with the conversion kit. they must supply enough R-134a in these
conversion kits for some little rice burner AC unit rather than a real AC
unit. I have a 460 (7.5L) engine in this thing (Motorhome) and the AC unit
is big! Guess I'll have to invest in some more R-134a. Still cheaper than
the R-12 and I don't need a license.
Thanks for the insight on the EPA rule. Of course, the vehicle will have a
R-134a sticker on it and some unsuspecting AC tech might just vent the thing
to the air.
The kit supplier recommends 80% - to 85% of the R-12 capacity due to the
increased pressure when using r-134a. I know the R-134a molecules are
smaller but I can't remember if that has anything to do with pressure or not
and I am not about to spend a day finding out.

Again, thanks for the wake up.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA



- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Cannon
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, July 24, 1999 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion


>At 07:14 24/07/99 -0400, Michael McCarthy wrote:
>>I have purchased an AC conversion kit to convert the AC in my '88 E-350
from
>>R-12 to R-134a. I have read all of the warnings and precautions regarding
>>the conversion and I still have a few questions.
>>
>>The instructions say to charge the system with 80%-85% of its capacity.
>>Without a pressure gauge how do you tell when the system is at 80% to 85%
of
>>its capacity?
>
>If you know the refrigerant capacity of your system in lb. and oz. of R-12,
>then you can put 80-85% of that into your system in R-134a. That's how.
>Pressure guage will not really tell you. But I'm not so sure you should try

>to do this conversion without pressure guages.
>
>>Curiosity - The instructions say that the system must be free of R-12
before
>>putting the R-134a in the system. However, everything I read indicates
that
>>it is an EPA regulation but nobody mentions any danger associated with
>>mixing R-12 and R-134a. Is there any danger to either me or my AC system
if
>>there is a little R-12 remaining in the system when I ad the R-134a?
>
>The EPA regulation side of it is that they want all of the R-12 sucked out
>and stored up in a bottle, not vented into the atmosphere. You do that with
>a fancy A/C service system. Then if you vent your R-134a system at a later
>time, the R-12 is not in there to get into the atmosphere.
>
>From a practical standpoint, it is my understanding that the system will
>perform better if you get as close to 100% R-134a in the system as you can.
>That might just be folklore, though.
>
>Let us know how it goes.
>Jim Cannon
>Houston, TX
>'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
>'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 10:03:53 EDT
From: Cerveza6 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-lNew Ford Owner

In a message dated 99-07-24 06:21:32 EDT, you write:


An oil cooler is not going to solve your problem dude, you have another
problem, maybe a worn out oil pump or motor.
>>
Chriws, before changing the punp hyou need to check the actual pressure with
a good gauge. I had the same problem and it was a bad sending unit.

Jerry O.
Mesa, Az
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 10:31:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: rich may
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 18/39 x 16.5 M.T and Weld rims for sale! $2,000 for only $600

I have (4) 18/39 x 16.5 Mickey Thompson Baja Belted tires and Weld
rims(8 lug) for sale. They are in very good condition and I am forced
to sell them because Mass. state law doesn't want me to have fun with
my truck(ie...law=29", my truck=32"). If you want to see the tires,
they are here

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://auctions.yahoo.com/auction/5524270

If interested, please e-mail
me off list.

Thanks
Rich May
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 09:28:22 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-lNew Ford Owner

At 10:03 24/07/99 EDT, Jerry wrote:
>In a message dated 99-07-24 06:21:32 EDT, you write:
>
>
> An oil cooler is not going to solve your problem dude, you have another
> problem, maybe a worn out oil pump or motor.
> >>
>Chriws, before changing the punp hyou need to check the actual pressure with
>a good gauge. I had the same problem and it was a bad sending unit.

I agree. These guages are not known to be that great. They are "indicators"
at best.

If the guage proves to be pretty accurate and your oil pressure really is
quite low when engine is hot, you can look into switching to a slightly
heavier motor oil. It won't get so thin so fast with heat and helps keep
pressure up a bit.

I'll bet you are using 10W30. Try 20W50. Unless you are in the far north,
that will probably work for you all year round. If in far north, switch
back to 10W30 or 10W40 in the winter to help with starting. Otherwise stick
to the 20W50. I am assuming this is a high-milage engine if you are having
this problem.

Good luck!

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 09:22:33 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion

At 10:02 24/07/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim,
>Thanks for the wake up call. I was interpreting the label on the AC unit
>(3.5 lbs.) as pressure rather than volume (mass). Duh!!!
>The label calls for 3.5 lbs w/o the auxiliary unit and 4.5 lbs. with the
>auxiliary unit. (Wonder what that means?)

The "auxilary unit" is a second evaporator and fan unit that is available
on vans for the rear passenger compartment. The additional pound of freon
is requied to fill this all up. I suspect you do not have this unit, or
else you would know what it was, so you should plan to put in 80-85% of the
3.5 lbs number, not the 4.5 lbs. This means you should use 45 oz. to 48
oz. of R-134a. Conveniently, that is (4) 12 oz. cans and you only need to
buy 1 more.


>Let's see 4.5 lbs. = 72 ounces. Each can is 12 oz. so I need 6 cans and only
>3 came with the conversion kit. they must supply enough R-134a in these
>conversion kits for some little rice burner AC unit rather than a real AC
>unit. I have a 460 (7.5L) engine in this thing (Motorhome) and the AC unit
>is big! Guess I'll have to invest in some more R-134a. Still cheaper than
>the R-12 and I don't need a license.

Note 80-85% of the 72 oz. original capacity is about 60 oz. and in that
case you would only need to buy 2 more 12 oz. cans IF you had the auxiliary
unit.

Later!

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 10:29:51 -0500
From: "Joel Thomas"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - another problem

thanks to everyone that helped me with my power prblem between 3rd and 4th
shifts, and the problem was my timing it was set at 5 BTDC and it is
supposed to be set at 10 BTDC that takes away a heck of a lot of my low-end
power.
But that brings me to my new problem my truck is an 84 F-150 that has the
TFI-IV ignition(computer controlled)
and it had the feedback carburator that told the computer how far to
advance the distributor in higher RPMS. but i have put a Holley in the
feedback carburators place so know the computer has no idea how to advance
the timing.
my question is i need to adapt an older ignition to my engine how hard is
this. and what are the prices for me to do it myself. I have air
conditioning
does the computer run this?? and it is manual tranny and speedo cable going
to transfer case so that is not computer controlled it seams the computer
jsut controls the distributor(very poorly) now.
what are my options to adapt older ignition and take all computer mess off
is the rewiring hard?

please help,
I have finally found my problem and need a fis pretty fast.

thank you

Joel Thomas mailto:treefort prodigy.net
1984 F-150, 351W, 9", T-18,
Edelbrock intake,Holley 750 vac,
33" BFG MT's.
Little Rock,Ar





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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 11:13:26 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Trucking Safely

>>and noticed a lady in my right mirror at the right
>rear of my trailer. I signaled to change lanes so she could pass me on the

>left -center lane-but she gassed her mercury suv and drove forward into a
box.
>She was on my right and behind the other truck. She stayed there for 3
miles
>before she realized I wasn't going to backout so she could cut in front of

>me. finally she backed off and I moved over so she could pass me. Of
course
>she waved thanks with her middle finger. good luck PHIL

If done correctly, people will get good 'n' steamed (but never realize you
are doing it to them...I HIGHLY recommend it for use against the lane
changing maniacs out there!

I have NOTHING but respect for Big Truck drivers, do the light bit with
'em, but the exception around here are gravel trucks, and local hot
shot...they drive worse than most CAR drivers!!!

All the big truck accidents around here lately involve gravel haulers or
container haulers.
You do the math!

Dave H.
Houston
92 F-150
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 14:57:22 EDT
From: craig n eggerman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust system

The only way to really test exhaust systems is to have a shop put the
truck on a dynometer and plot the horsepower curves. We looked at several
mods on an 89 E350 and the optimum was to cut the back section off the
cat (there is a severe restriction right behind the cat) and install 3
1/2 pipe muffler ect. all the way back. This shifted the HP curve up and
reduced the back pressure about 2 psi. Three inch would be fine for the
smaller V8s. The 460 needs all the help it can get.
The engine does not seem to run quite as hot and there is a measurable
improvement in road response. This mod was quite a bit cheaper than a
dual exhaust set up.
Craig
Eggerman juno.com
Casper,Wyoming
O|||||O

___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 14:06:21 -0700
From: Livingston Family
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion

I just checked out this conversion, and I found out that the AC repair shops had
very mixed feelings about it. I had it figured out that I could buy the the
tools and the conversion kits for about the same $ as getting my R 12 system
fixed. Two of the shops I checked out would do conversions. Two others
wouldn't because they had too many people coming back mad. The main problems
were that the R 134 refrigerant is a much smaller molecule than R 12 and found a
lot of places to leak in a system designed for R 12. R 134 is also less
efficent a refrigerant and needs to run at higher pressures. (Thats the reason
for putting in an 80% charge.) So even when converted, it won't cool as well in
a system. The oil for the R12 system is not compatible with the oil for the
R134 system. Unless the old R12 oil is completely flushed out, you get a
chemical reaction that will eventually destroy your comperssor.
Just my 2 cents worth.

Michael McCarthy wrote:

> I have purchased an AC conversion kit to convert the AC in my '88 E-350 from
> R-12 to R-134a. I have read all of the warnings and precautions regarding
> the conversion and I still have a few questions.
>
> The instructions say to charge the system with 80%-85% of its capacity.
> Without a pressure gauge how do you tell when the system is at 80% to 85% of
> its capacity?
>
> Curiosity - The instructions say that the system must be free of R-12 before
> putting the R-134a in the system. However, everything I read indicates that
> it is an EPA regulation but nobody mentions any danger associated with
> mixing R-12 and R-134a. Is there any danger to either me or my AC system if
> there is a little R-12 remaining in the system when I ad the R-134a?
>
> Michael McCarthy
> Export, PA
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 17:44:05 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion

I figured out what the auxiliary unit was in the mean time and realized that
I only needed what I had been supplied in the kit. (Same old story, open
mouth insert foot.) They also include 8.5 ounces of Ester oil so that
brought the total refrigerant required down to 3 lbs. and 80% of 3 pounds is
2.4 lbs. or about 38 ounces. 3 cans = 36 ounces so I have just enough.
The instructions say to add the first 2 cans of refrigerant with the can
inverted so you get liquid, then add the oil, then the third can is added in
an upright position to inject gas to top off the system. Maybe I am
impatient but the 3rd can was taking forever to feed in and I eventually
gave up because my had was burning up inside the engine compartment. I am
sure I had flow because the can was cold but man it was taking forever. I
probably got 3/4 of the last can in before I quit. I'll go back in there
when the engine is cold and try to get the rest of it in.

Once again, thanks for the help.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Cannon
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, July 24, 1999 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion


>At 10:02 24/07/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>Jim,
>>Thanks for the wake up call. I was interpreting the label on the AC unit
>>(3.5 lbs.) as pressure rather than volume (mass). Duh!!!
>>The label calls for 3.5 lbs w/o the auxiliary unit and 4.5 lbs. with the
>>auxiliary unit. (Wonder what that means?)
>
>The "auxilary unit" is a second evaporator and fan unit that is available
>on vans for the rear passenger compartment. The additional pound of freon
>is requied to fill this all up. I suspect you do not have this unit, or
>else you would know what it was, so you should plan to put in 80-85% of the
>3.5 lbs number, not the 4.5 lbs. This means you should use 45 oz. to 48
>oz. of R-134a. Conveniently, that is (4) 12 oz. cans and you only need to
>buy 1 more.
>
>
>>Let's see 4.5 lbs. = 72 ounces. Each can is 12 oz. so I need 6 cans and
only
>>3 came with the conversion kit. they must supply enough R-134a in these
>>conversion kits for some little rice burner AC unit rather than a real AC
>>unit. I have a 460 (7.5L) engine in this thing (Motorhome) and the AC unit
>>is big! Guess I'll have to invest in some more R-134a. Still cheaper than
>>the R-12 and I don't need a license.
>
>Note 80-85% of the 72 oz. original capacity is about 60 oz. and in that
>case you would only need to buy 2 more 12 oz. cans IF you had the auxiliary
>unit.
>
>Later!
>
>Jim Cannon
>Houston, TX
>'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
>'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 17:54:50 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion

I had the same reservations so I went to the "interdynamics" web site
(http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.id-usa.com/default2.htm) and looked at the FAQ section. They
claim that the mineral oil used with R-12 is simply there. It doesn't do any
harm and it doesn't do any good. The EPA web site regarding conversions
confirmed this information.
I finished the conversion today and so far, so good. Since I haven't had AC
in this vehicle for some time it is hard to say if it is colder than the
R-12 but I can tell you that it is pretty cold coming out of the vents.
Certainly cold enough to keep me comfortable. Then again I don't live in
Arizona either. Well, I've done it so I'll keep you informed.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: Livingston Family
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, July 24, 1999 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion


>I just checked out this conversion, and I found out that the AC repair
shops had
>very mixed feelings about it. I had it figured out that I could buy the
the
>tools and the conversion kits for about the same $ as getting my R 12
system
>fixed. Two of the shops I checked out would do conversions. Two others
>wouldn't because they had too many people coming back mad. The main
problems
>were that the R 134 refrigerant is a much smaller molecule than R 12 and
found a
>lot of places to leak in a system designed for R 12. R 134 is also less
>efficent a refrigerant and needs to run at higher pressures. (Thats the
reason
>for putting in an 80% charge.) So even when converted, it won't cool as
well in
>a system. The oil for the R12 system is not compatible with the oil for
the
>R134 system. Unless the old R12 oil is completely flushed out, you get a
>chemical reaction that will eventually destroy your comperssor.
> Just my 2 cents worth.
>
>Michael McCarthy wrote:
>
>> I have purchased an AC conversion kit to convert the AC in my '88 E-350
from
>> R-12 to R-134a. I have read all of the warnings and precautions regarding
>> the conversion and I still have a few questions.
>>
>> The instructions say to charge the system with 80%-85% of its capacity.
>> Without a pressure gauge how do you tell when the system is at 80% to 85%
of
>> its capacity?
>>
>> Curiosity - The instructions say that the system must be free of R-12
before
>> putting the R-134a in the system. However, everything I read indicates
that
>> it is an EPA regulation but nobody mentions any danger associated with
>> mixing R-12 and R-134a. Is there any danger to either me or my AC system
if
>> there is a little R-12 remaining in the system when I ad the R-134a?
>>
>> Michael McCarthy
>> Export, PA
>>
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 19:18:28 -0400
From: "Troy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E-250 Destroyed

On 20 Jul 99, at 0:18, JSC721 aol.com wrote:

>They will probably total it. I just rebuilt that 300 6cyl. Detailed the whole
>engine. Painted valve cover, oil pan, everything. If that baby goes to the
>junkyard somebody will have all new parts, including the new ac R134
>compressor. This 5 vehicle crash made the newspapers in my area (Tampa Bay,
>Florida) They drive like maniacs down here. There are many auto fatalites
>every day here. 6 people lost thier lives this week end in accidents in this
>area. Think my next truck will be an armored car. LoL.

OUCH! I'm sorry to see all the work go to waste, too bad that you
can't collect on the time that you spent working on it. I'm suprised
your insurance company will not let you at least remove the
shelving or anything.

You might be a redneck if... You've ever water-skied in your
underwear. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 19:18:29 -0400
From: "Troy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E-250 Destroyed

On 23 Jul 99, at 12:04, JSC721 aol.com wrote:

>Thanks for the info chris. I have all the receipts of the work done to the
>truck. What kinda sucks is that I did most of it myself so I guess I will
>only get paid for the parts. What about the labor? I busted my butt on that
>truck. We will see what happens. In the meantime, its not easy to find
>another truck. I cant afford to get a new truck because my business is still
>building. My van was paymentless. It was all mine. so I will have to find an
>88 - 90 year van. I need at least a 250 to handle the weight and an 8 cyl
>engine.

I'm sure you will find something in your area. If not, then you might
want to check out some of the online classifieds. I think there
were some at classifieds.yahoo.com or something similiar. Just
go to http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yahoo.com and look for their classified link.

You might be a redneck if... You hate having to drive to the
penitentiary to spend Christmas with Mama. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 19:41:50 -0400
From: "Troy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion

On 24 Jul 99, at 14:06, Livingston Family wrote:

>I just checked out this conversion, and I found out that the AC repair shops had
>very mixed feelings about it. I had it figured out that I could buy the the
>tools and the conversion kits for about the same $ as getting my R 12 system
>fixed. Two of the shops I checked out would do conversions. Two others
>wouldn't because they had too many people coming back mad. The main problems
>were that the R 134 refrigerant is a much smaller molecule than R 12 and found a
>lot of places to leak in a system designed for R 12. R 134 is also less
>efficent a refrigerant and needs to run at higher pressures. (Thats the reason
>for putting in an 80% charge.) So even when converted, it won't cool as well in
>a system. The oil for the R12 system is not compatible with the oil for the
>R134 system. Unless the old R12 oil is completely flushed out, you get a
>chemical reaction that will eventually destroy your comperssor.

You are right, the R-134 isn't as efficient as the R12, I don't know
about the rest of the steps for the conversion, but let's see, $4 per
pound for the R134 compared to $40 per pound for the R12. I think
I'd let them do the switch to the 134. :)

You might be a redneck if... You have a bumper sticker that says, 'My
mother's an honor student' at the local junior high. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 18:22:03 -0700
From: redmist mb.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Transfer Case Trouble??

Bob Kennedy wrote:
>
> If the grinding was in 4-wheel drive, with the hubs locked or not and you
> get the noise. It's the case or the front axle. You could eliminate the
> front axle by dropping the front driveline and doing your test again. If
> it's still there it's definitely the t-case.
>
> Bob
>
> redmist mb.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> > I heard a noise the other day when in 4-lo. It sound like a grinding
> > noise coming from the front end. I happened to be in sand that day, and
> > thought (hoped) it was just sand spinning up into the wheels wells.
> >
> > Today, I had a load of hay in the back and drove right into the pasture
> > to drop it. I went to back up to the shed and my rear wheels started
> > spinning. I peered out and noticed that the left front wheel was on the
> > other side of a little hole, with a big root at the edge of it. No
> > problem. Hit the 4x4 button and hit the gas a bit. My wife said the
> > wheel was spinning (I wasn't going anywhere). Surprised, I put it in
> > neytural and hit 4-low. I eased on the gas and I heard that loud
> > grinding noise seemingly coming from the front end again. I got over
> > the hole, and tried the gas again on level ground. As soon as I stepped
> > on the gas fairly decent, it made the grinding noise again. I got out
> > and realized the huns were unlocked, but that shouldn't have caused any
> > grinding, it just should have not engaged the front axles, right? The
> > tranny geared down, but doing that is okay in 2wd isn't it? I assume
> > this a xcase problem. Am I right? Anyone ever experienced this before?
> >
> > I recently had trouble with the tranny seemingly sticking in 1st,
> > revving way high and seemingly skipping 2nd, then going straight to
> > third and then fourth after shifting out of 4-lo and going to 2wd. This
> > happended twice about a month apart. Both times it did it only a couple
> > of times (highway driving - so getting up to highway speed one time
> > only) and then quit. I think its time to get a professional to look at
> > it, but figured I'd check to see if anyone has ever had this happen and
> > has an idea so I don't get burned when taking it into the shop.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Shel ~:O)
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

It's only in 4-low, and manual hubs locked or not.

Going forward with the brakes on, it makes more of a clunking sound. In
reverse, I get the grinding sound which is a much higher pitch. It
almost sounds like the t-case is out of or between gears, if that makes
any sense. At any rate, it's going in Monday morning for a look.

Shel

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 17:38:11 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Transfer Case Trouble??

I hope things go well for you.

Bob


redmist mb.sympatico.ca wrote:

> Bob Kennedy wrote:
> >
> > If the grinding was in 4-wheel drive, with the hubs locked or not and you
> > get the noise. It's the case or the front axle. You could eliminate the
> > front axle by dropping the front driveline and doing your test again. If
> > it's still there it's definitely the t-case.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > redmist mb.sympatico.ca wrote:
> >
> > > I heard a noise the other day when in 4-lo. It sound like a grinding
> > > noise coming from the front end. I happened to be in sand that day, and
> > > thought (hoped) it was just sand spinning up into the wheels wells.
> > >
> > > Today, I had a load of hay in the back and drove right into the pasture
> > > to drop it. I went to back up to the shed and my rear wheels started
> > > spinning. I peered out and noticed that the left front wheel was on the
> > > other side of a little hole, with a big root at the edge of it. No
> > > problem. Hit the 4x4 button and hit the gas a bit. My wife said the
> > > wheel was spinning (I wasn't going anywhere). Surprised, I put it in
> > > neytural and hit 4-low. I eased on the gas and I heard that loud
> > > grinding noise seemingly coming from the front end again. I got over
> > > the hole, and tried the gas again on level ground. As soon as I stepped
> > > on the gas fairly decent, it made the grinding noise again. I got out
> > > and realized the huns were unlocked, but that shouldn't have caused any
> > > grinding, it just should have not engaged the front axles, right? The
> > > tranny geared down, but doing that is okay in 2wd isn't it? I assume
> > > this a xcase problem. Am I right? Anyone ever experienced this before?
> > >
> > > I recently had trouble with the tranny seemingly sticking in 1st,
> > > revving way high and seemingly skipping 2nd, then going straight to
> > > third and then fourth after shifting out of 4-lo and going to 2wd. This
> > > happended twice about a month apart. Both times it did it only a couple
> > > of times (highway driving - so getting up to highway speed one time
> > > only) and then quit. I think its time to get a professional to look at
> > > it, but figured I'd check to see if anyone has ever had this happen and
> > > has an idea so I don't get burned when taking it into the shop.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Shel ~:O)
> > >
> > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> It's only in 4-low, and manual hubs locked or not.
>
> Going forward with the brakes on, it makes more of a clunking sound. In
> reverse, I get the grinding sound which is a much higher pitch. It
> almost sounds like the t-case is out of or between gears, if that makes
> any sense. At any rate, it's going in Monday morning for a look.
>
> Shel
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 20:55:16 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Looking for an Altenator

I am looking for a heavy duty/ high output altenator for my 92 F-150.
Anyone have any suggestions? With 101k on the motor, the electric fans in,
and a few more sets of lights to add, I'm afraid my alt can't hack it.
Anyone know what the original output should be? At idle I only have 12.2
volts, and if I remember correctly, when I put the new battery in last year,
I had 14.4. Maybe it could be the battery? Hmmm... Optima here I come....

Joe
Lost in Jersey
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 20:08:44 -0700
From: redmist mb.sympatico.ca
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wife's coffee killed my stereo!!

My wife had her coffee on my dash the other day, and tipped it over.
She didn't tell me until I hopped in and noticed the radio didn't work.
I couldn't figure it out at all. I checked the fuses etc. and after
lots of frustration, my wife mentioned the coffee. It turns out that
there is an opening (seam) along the dash at the edge of the lip that I
would have assumed was supposed to keep things from getting under the
dash. I guess a lot of the the coffee ran into the seam and directly
down into the stereo. The clock/display doesn't even turn on. Any
suggestions, or this thing toast?

Shel ~:O(


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 19:25:20 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wife's coffee killed my stereo!!

Fluid against live circuits is no good. You can sometimes save items by
immediately removing power (remove positive cable from battery). Make sure
the system is dry before attempting to run current through it....sounds like
it may be too late already.

If it was a latte or something other than just coffee, you may to completely
dismantle the unit to clean it up. Any residue will not let heat dissipate
as it should.

Not knowing how long the fluid stayed in the system, and power still being
delivered. Smaller electronic components will fry long before a fuse pops.

Mine was under quite a bit of water, all I lost in the end was the display
LED. Everything worked OK, I just didn't see anything on the dial.

Bob


redmist mb.sympatico.ca wrote:

> My wife had her coffee on my dash the other day, and tipped it over.
> She didn't tell me until I hopped in and noticed the radio didn't work.
> I couldn't figure it out at all. I checked the fuses etc. and after
> lots of frustration, my wife mentioned the coffee. It turns out that
> there is an opening (seam) along the dash at the edge of the lip that I
> would have assumed was supposed to keep things from getting under the
> dash. I guess a lot of the the coffee ran into the seam and directly
> down into the stereo. The clock/display doesn't even turn on. Any
> suggestions, or this thing toast?
>
> Shel ~:O(
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 23:32:19 EDT
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC Conversion

A rule of thumb temp at vents is 55 - 60 degrees farenheit.
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jul 1999 00:08:16 EDT
From: MRStace84 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - another problem

Joel,

I've got an 84 F150 with a 300 I6. Last winter I started a little bit a
restoration work, just trying to get it back into good running condition.
When we quit driving the truck regularly about 2 years it was running really
bad. Anyway over time a lot of the sensors were bad, and wire connector
were become corroded, and loose, etc. So, I decided it was time for the
computer controlled inigtion sytem to go (It was becoming a maintenace
nightmare). I decided to change mine over to a Duraspark II. What you
need is the following: Distributor, complete with cap and rotor button, coil,
and coil mounting bracket, Durapsark II ignition module, and a good chunk of
wiring harness out of an old car or truck.

Out of a 78 Mercury station wagon, I got an ignition coil and mounting
bracket, Ignition moudule, and the complete wiring harness. I went to my
local auto parts store and bought a distributor for a 78 F150 300 truck.
(the car had a 460). The distributor ended up costing me about a $100 since
I didn't have one for a core. I hung onto my old TFI-IV just in case I
needed it later. The section of the wiring harness you need is the section
the goes from the distrubtor the the ignition module. This section will also
have your horseshoe connector for the Duraspark coil. You will also need to
cut off a connector on the section of the harness going into the car, that
plugs into one of the connectors on the the igniton module.

After collecting the parts I got a chilton manual, and got copies of wiring
shematic for a 78 and an 84 and determined what I need to changed. And
after 3 solder splices it was wired, and adding a vacuum line for the vacuum
advance finished the job; it ran like a charm.

Later I plan to buy a new coil and ignition module, initially i didn't wan't
to spend any more money that I had to, until I was sure I could make it work.
But it did and I am very pleased with the results. I think my truck runs
better than it ever has.

I know this kind of rushed and rampid, so if you need more info, just let me
know and I'll try to provide it.

Stacy Fisher
98 Ranger XLT 4x4
84 F150 4x4



thanks to everyone that helped me with my power prblem between 3rd and 4th
shifts, and the problem was my timing it was set at 5 BTDC and it is
supposed to be set at 10 BTDC that takes away a heck of a lot of my low-end
power.
But that brings me to my new problem my truck is an 84 F-150 that has the
TFI-IV ignition(computer controlled)
and it had the feedback carburator that told the computer how far to
advance the distributor in higher RPMS. but i have put a Holley in the
feedback carburators place so know the computer has no idea how to advance
the timing.
my question is i need to adapt an older ignition to my engine how hard is
this. and what are the prices for me to do it myself. I have air
conditioning
does the computer run this?? and it is manual tranny and speedo cable going
to transfer case so that is not computer controlled it seams the computer
jsut controls the distributor(very poorly) now.
what are my options to adapt older ignition and take all computer mess off
is the rewiring hard?

please help,
I have finally found my problem and need a fis pretty fast.

thank you

Joel Thomas mailto:treefort prodigy.net
1984 F-150, 351W, 9", T-18,
Edelbrock intake,Holley 750 vac,
33" BFG MT's.
Little Rock,Ar
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 23:54:05 -0500
From: "Dennis Thompson"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - another problem

- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Saturday, July 24, 1999 11:08 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - another problem


> Joel,
>
> I've got an 84 F150 with a 300 I6. Last winter I started a little bit a
> restoration work, just trying to get it back into good running condition.
> When we quit driving the truck regularly about 2 years it was running
really
> bad. Anyway over time a lot of the sensors were bad, and wire connector
> were become corroded, and loose, etc. So, I decided it was time for the
> computer controlled inigtion sytem to go (It was becoming a maintenace
> nightmare). I decided to change mine over to a Duraspark II. What you
> need is the following: Distributor, complete with cap and rotor button,
coil,
> and coil mounting bracket, Durapsark II ignition module, and a good chunk
of
> wiring harness out of an old car or truck.
>
> Out of a 78 Mercury station wagon, I got an ignition coil and mounting
> bracket, Ignition moudule, and the complete wiring harness. I went to my
> local auto parts store and bought a distributor for a 78 F150 300 truck.
> (the car had a 460). The distributor ended up costing me about a $100
since
> I didn't have one for a core. I hung onto my old TFI-IV just in case I
> needed it later. The section of the wiring harness you need is the
section
> the goes from the distrubtor the the ignition module. This section will
also
> have your horseshoe connector for the Duraspark coil. You will also need
to
> cut off a connector on the section of the harness going into the car, that
> plugs into one of the connectors on the the igniton module.....


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