From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #201
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80-96-list-digest Monday, July 19 1999 Volume 03 : Number 201



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum leak detection
Re: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum leak detection
Re: FTE 80-96 - Newbee to the list
Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.0 L camshaft
Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric Fan Suggestion
FTE 80-96 - RE:stalling f150
FTE 80-96 - RE-Vacuum leak detection
FTE 80-96 - Fuel Tank again...
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Tank again...
Re: FTE 80-96 - Newbee to the list
RE: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Tank again...
Re: FTE 80-96 - 84 F150 Brakes
FTE 80-96 - AC switching from Vents to Defrost
FTE 80-96 - E-250 Destroyed
FTE 80-96 - E-250 Destroyed
Re: FTE 80-96 - E-250 Destroyed
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates
FTE 80-96 - truck will not start after engine is cutoff
Re: FTE 80-96 - 84 F150 Brakes
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC switching from Vents to Defrost
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC switching from Vents to Defrost
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE-Vacuum leak detection
Re: FTE 80-96 - stalling f150
FTE 80-96 - Joe's Clunkin' Truck, and a brake suggestion
Re: FTE 80-96 - E-250 Destroyed
Re: FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil rust proofing
Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.0 L camshaft

=======================================================================

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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 06:11:16 -0400
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum leak detection

Well, back in the "old days", we used to spray a little WD-40 around the
suspected area. The propellant was flammable and would be sucked into
the engine where the leak was, changing the engine speed almost
immediately. Now I understand they have changed the propellant in WD-40
so that it doesn't burn. I have heard of others doing something similar
with an UNLIT propane torch, which sounds reasonable to me. Note the
"unlit" torch - it won't work if the torch is lit.

Mike

Mark Behling wrote:
>
> With all this talk about vacuum leaks lately, was wondering if anybody had any slick
> ideas for locating a leak?
>
> Mark
> '96 F150 I6 5spd
>
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- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)


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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 07:48:39 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum leak detection

I have found that Carb Cleaner works reasonably well in detecting leaks but
I had a cracked hose running from the intake manifold to the MAP sensor and
it didn't help at all in finding the problem. Problem is that the more
volatile the liquid the faster the evaporation rate, particularly on warm /
hot surfaces. So, you have to make sure that the volatile liquid gets into
the leak before it all evaporates. In addition, the more volatile the liquid
the higher the possibility you may get a little extra action that you hadn't
counted on, like an explosion. I'm already bald so the risk is minimal in my
case.
There is a TSB that describes using propane to adjust the idle on Ford
trucks. I'll look it up again and if it is relevant I will share the info.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA

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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 09:02:50 -0400
From: Cliff McLarty
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Newbee to the list

Thanks Dennis! I have been reading many of the posts and became very interested
in the hesitation/stalling at idle, steering play, and rust protection (i.e.
oil) threads. This site is well worth the time spent on-line. I will be
starting from the front and going to the back fixing things. I don't want a
"hot-rod" type truck because I still use it to haul junk when I rehab houses. I
want to keep the "beast" for many more years.

What I am concerned about right now is an oil smell. Three weeks ago I was
pulling my boat home from a bass tourney and about half way my radiator ripped a
seam. I started noticing a loss of power and a valve tapping noise, looked down
and saw I was heating up. Got over VERY quickly and had to call home for my
wife to come pull me home. She enjoyed that.

Replaced the radiator, changed oil and filter, all looked ok, but, after engine
warms up (about 10-15 min) a strong oil smell comes into cab. Could a gasket
have melted or a crack happend somewhere? Remember, I'm a newbee. This is
probably a dumb question and will receive flares from all the "in the know"
mechs. Thanks for your help.

Cliff


DENKC5 aol.com wrote:

> Hi Cliff,
> Fairly new myself. A couple of questions I can ask and a bunch totally over
> my head questions I can't answer. What I can say is that I think I helped a
> couple of owners, at least I think so. My old 79' F150 has been picked up by
> a good buyer, a father and son team that want to restore her.
>
> Specific questions, shoot, I'll help where I can.
> Dennis
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 11:12:17 EDT
From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.0 L camshaft

crane cams makes a good cam for low end the power band is 1000-4000 look into
it

luke
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 11:17:37 EDT
From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric Fan Suggestion

i got it at a local performance shop but summit should have it. its is
mounted on the back of the radiator with two bolts that came with it. there
is a relay that goes to it but if you know what you are doin with electrical
stuff you can do it. i had someone else do mine. i am real impressed on how
it works and how good it works

luke
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 11:52:34 -0500
From: "Steve Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:stalling f150

>>The truck runs OK for about an hour from a cold start, then it stalls and
won't restart until it has cooled. This happens both >>idling in my
driveway and being driven on the road.
>>When it happens on the road it occurs when I slow down for a traffic light
or turn and then won't accelerate, stalls and won't >>restart. In the
driveway it just spudders and dyes from an idle and then won't restart until
it cools down.

You really must do a bit of research to be sure if you are loosing spark or
fuel. Once you are SURE, the real trouble shooting can begin. Fuel: Vapor
lock, bad fuel pump would be my first two guesses. Spark: Coil when going
bad can get hot and shut off, then when it cools down start working again,
and probably can several other electronic parts.. Let us know what you
figure out.


>>I have no idea if it's related or not but the other, less severe problem
is that it squeals like a pig for 60-90 seconds on >>acceleration right
after it starts.

My LDT did that and I wasn't too concerned at first, but finally I fixed it.
Mine was the serpentine belt slipping just a bit. I tried tightening it, and
a new belt, and some of that spray on stop to stop bet squeal, no luck.
finally I removed the belt, took my 4" grinder with a wire wheel and
cleaned/ruffed up every pulley it rode on under the hood. Problem solved. It
could also have something to do with the AC clutch, or a bearing on a
pulley.


Steve
92 F-250
50 F-1


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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 11:59:06 -0500
From: "Steve Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE-Vacuum leak detection

>>With all this talk about vacuum leaks lately, was wondering if anybody had
any slick
>>ideas for locating a leak?

The only one that I have heard of (but haven't got it to successfully work
for me) is to spray WD-40 around suspected areas and lines, and when the
Eng. rpm speeds up, your close

Steve
92-F250
50 f-1

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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 15:43:50 -0400
From: "Nathan Edward Green"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Tank again...

OK folks,
I am the guy switching the "side mounted" fuel tank with the huge aft
mounted fuel tank. Remember? Anyway, got the gas tank today and a Haynes
manual. I am a little confused...maybe you can help. On the new aft mount tank,
as well as the illustration in haynes, there are 3 "holes". #1 is for the fuel
filler hose. #2-- is a large hole for the pump(or really with the carburated
motor, the fuel pickup hose. #3 is the problem--located on the top of the tank,
it looks to be some type of vapor recovery or something.
From what I can see on the old side mount tank, there is only 2 holes.
One for the fuel filler hose and one for the pickup hose. The illustration in
haynes is confusing. Do I need the third hole on top of the tank, or what? I
haven't taken down the tank to get a good look...I am going to work on it
tomorrow. I suppose there could be 3 hoses up top... but it soesn't look like
there is room. Help...anyone?

Nate


- --
C/Lt Col Nathan Edward Green--(Now a happy AS700)
negreen unity.ncsu.edu
(919) 833-9658

*************************************************************************
"I've got a B.S. in BS"
-Myself, in MEA444 Class

"I'm a scientist Mr. Roark, Certainty is a very big word for me."
-Dr. Amy Barnes:"Volcano"

"Well, If you want something badly enough, dreams have a way of coming true."
-EADA Ben Stone, "Law & Order"

*********************************************************************

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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 16:54:39 EDT
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Tank again...

The third hole in the tank may be the return line connection in a fuel
injected system. The unused fuel returns to the tank.
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 17:00:28 EDT
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Newbee to the list

Check the oil pan gasket. I blew one out about a month ago, towing my 5th
wheel back home. It was about 95-98 degrees that weekend and I too did some
damage. The engine lost about 2-21/2 qts. of oil. I didn't realize it had
happened 'til I was washing the truck and saw the oil spray all the way back
to rear mud flaps. Good luck!!
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 18:10:43 -0500
From: "Webdoc"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Tank again...

Seem to remember a vapor return hose from the canister under the hood for
emissions....
Webdoc
Email webdoc arkansas.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Nathan Edward Green
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 1999 2:44 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Tank again...

OK folks,
I am the guy switching the "side mounted" fuel tank with the huge aft
mounted fuel tank. Remember? Anyway, got the gas tank today and a Haynes
manual. I am a little confused...maybe you can help. On the new aft mount
tank,
as well as the illustration in haynes, there are 3 "holes". #1 is for the
fuel
filler hose. #2-- is a large hole for the pump(or really with the carburated
motor, the fuel pickup hose. #3 is the problem--located on the top of the
tank,
it looks to be some type of vapor recovery or something.
From what I can see on the old side mount tank, there is only 2 holes.
One for the fuel filler hose and one for the pickup hose. The illustration
in
haynes is confusing. Do I need the third hole on top of the tank, or what? I
haven't taken down the tank to get a good look...I am going to work on it
tomorrow. I suppose there could be 3 hoses up top... but it soesn't look
like
there is room. Help...anyone?

Nate


- --
C/Lt Col Nathan Edward Green--(Now a happy AS700)
negreen unity.ncsu.edu
(919) 833-9658

*************************************************************************
"I've got a B.S. in BS"
-Myself, in MEA444 Class

"I'm a scientist Mr. Roark, Certainty is a very big word for me."
-Dr. Amy Barnes:"Volcano"

"Well, If you want something badly enough, dreams have a way of coming
true."
-EADA Ben Stone, "Law & Order"

*********************************************************************

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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 19:18:03 -0400
From: "Troy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 84 F150 Brakes

On 15 Jul 99, at 8:07, MRStace84 aol.com wrote:

>Mine is hissing any time, that I have the pedal pushed. Whether the truck is
>at a stop or I am moving the pedal downward. After further investigation I
>have noticed that I am starting to have to press harder to get the truck
>stopped, which seems to be a good indication of a bad booster. Did anyone
>else notice having to press the pedal more firmly?

I don't know if ya'll would really call it a hiss, maybe something like
a huff or something when you're pushing down on the pedal. My
brakes are as sensitive as they were when I first bought the truck,
well over a year ago, so I guess it is normal.

You might be a redneck if... You teach your kids how to make
prank phone calls. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet. Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 20:24:39 EDT
From: craig n eggerman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - AC switching from Vents to Defrost

it is a vacuum leak . start checking hoses.
Eggerman juno.com
Casper,Wyoming
O|||||O

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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 21:01:24 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E-250 Destroyed

Hey Guys,

Well, I never though it would happen to me but it did. My 89 E-250 took a
rear end collision impact at a red light from a chevy pick up at about 65
miles an hour this morning. The good news is that Im hurtin but survived it.
The woman driving the pick up had a heart attack and stayed on the gas pedal
struck me first, then took out about 3 other vehicles. Thank god for the
crash wall on the cargo vans. I lightly rear ended a 99 dodge pick up with
the hitch busting my radiator. I stayed on the brake and took the brunt of
the crash due to a baby in the vehicle ahead of me. My fuel tank rupured from
my hitch and the body buckled. I lost some of my supplies in my Van.
But all of the customizing and mechanical work (which was everything ) that
I did is all gone. It breaks my heart. Without my truck I am out of business.
The insurance company will probably total it. But I will have the oppurtunity
to replace it with another Ford of course. Just in the wrong place at the
wrong time.

Joe Jsc721

P.S. Target Vehicle : Ford E-350 Extended Cargo Van. Diesel? Gas?
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 21:19:31 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E-250 Destroyed

Joe,
Man...thats terrible. I am glad to hear that you are ok. I'll keep my eye out
for a van for ya!
Later,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 21:49:27 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E-250 Destroyed

Thanks Wayne. I need to find an extended Cargo Van or a Box truck.
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 22:22:20 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates

The Ford Truck Enthusiasts web site has been updated:
http://www.ford-trucks.com

- -All sections of the pictorial have had new pictures
added.
- -1973-1979 Ammeter Diag article added to tech articles.
- -BBS reorganized (actually took place 3 days ago) for
easier navigation.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 22:33:32 EDT
From: RONEAKER aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - truck will not start after engine is cutoff

1992 ford f-150 4x4 with 351
I can drive the truck all over town or for 10 minutes, but when I cut the
engine off and allow it to cool off usually after 10 or 15 minutes it will
not start the rest of the day. It also idles real high after the engine warms
up. The next morning its like nothing happened. I had just changed the fuel
filter, maybe coincidence. The fuel pump seems to be working or at least gets
gas up to the motor and the plugs get fire. Any Ideas if it is one problem or
two problems and what to check. thank you.
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 23:08:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Turbo16 webtv.net (Turbo !)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 84 F150 Brakes

I have an 88 full size Bronco with the same exact problem and by
replacing the booster it fixed the problem. Good Luck with yours!
Chris

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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 20:27:07 -0700
From: "Mike Salomone"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC switching from Vents to Defrost

Subject: FTE 80-96 - AC switching from Vents to Defrost


I've a 94 F150 XLT 146,000 which is starting to switch
between dash
vents on AC to defroster. Any suggestions where to
start looking?
Hal Davis
Nokomis, FL

I'm having the same kind of problem on my
wife'sB****LeS****
I haven't got into it yet but the B**** does it pulling
a hill
ie when the vacuum drops off.I'm going to ugh! crawl up
under the dash
and look at the vacuum lines,of course FIRST I'll look
at the lines under the hood that are easy to get
to,then under the dash. I suspect I'll find what they
now call a "vacuum motor"
it looks like the old carburator "dash pot".
It'll have a vacuum line going to it and at the other
end a sliding arm or lever which moves a damper in the
forced air supply>>from the A/C,Heater fan duct.It
could be on the AIR BOX
under the hood where the fan is.
It's switching due to a change in vacuum or something
is moving a vacuum line and causing a leak which has
the same effect ..changes the amount of vacuum at the
air motor allowing the damper to move.
Happpy Trails
Mike Salomone aka mickeys sedona.net


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Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 22:26:06 -0500
From: Matthew Banevich
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC switching from Vents to Defrost

Do you know if your duct work is controlled by cable or vacuume, I had
the same problem with an 89 Bronco II, had to replace a plastic " gear "
and it works great now.....

Check for the cable operation, and if the two are the same, I can help
you!!!
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 20:58:42 -0700
From: "Mike Salomone"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE-Vacuum leak detection

Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE-Vacuum leak detection




>>With all this talk about vacuum leaks lately, was
wondering if anybody had
any slick
>>ideas for locating a leak?

Take the burner off your propane torch
(Bernzomatic)DON'T loose the lttle orifice!!!
Put a piece of vacuum hose 2,3,4 feet on the end of the
brass tube where the burner was.
Crack the valve open and move the open end of the hose
over real close to suspected areas,
vacuum lines,vacuum fittings, vacuum devices and edges
of intake manifold. When you find a leak the RPM WILL
increase! find a quit area {{outside please}} and tune
your ear to the revs or have someone watch the
tach.This works!!!
Happpy Trails
Mike Salomone aka mickeys sedona.net

The only one that I have heard of (but haven't got it
to successfully work
for me) is to spray WD-40 around suspected areas and
lines, and when the
Eng. rpm speeds up, your close

Steve
92-F250
50 f-1

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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 21:05:27 -0700
From: "Mike Salomone"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - stalling f150

If you think it might be a coil opening up with heat
get a can of FREEZE at the Radio Shack and spray the
coil to see if it comes back.
We use this stuff in the electronics business to find
heat related intermittents.
That is if you've dumped a drop of gas down the carb to
eliminate the vapor lock.
Happpy Trails
Mike Salomone aka mickeys sedona.net


Hello Everyone --

I 've got an 84 F150 4x4 with the 302 and C6 auto. 128K
on the odometer.

The truck runs OK for about an hour from a cold start,
then it stalls and won't restart until it has cooled.
This happens both idling in my driveway and being
driven on the road.
When it happens on the road it occurs when I slow down
for a traffic light or turn and then won't accelerate,
stalls and won't restart. In the driveway it just
spudders and dyes from an idle and then won't restart
until it cools down.

I have no idea if it's related or not but the other,
less severe problem is that it squeals like a pig for
60-90 seconds on acceleration right after it starts.

The ignition system checks out OK so I think I'm losing
fuel, not spark, but......

Any ideas?? And are the two problems related in any
way?

Thanks for any help/suggestions

Bob

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Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 00:37:22 -0400
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Joe's Clunkin' Truck, and a brake suggestion

Hey All,

I've been following the thread on Joe's clunkin front-end
with a lot of interest, since it sounds like we might have the same
problem. I don't think I ever heard any resolutions though, and the
thread seemed to fade away...
I've got a '95 150 4x4 with a nasty front-end clunk, but it
only happens once when I'm stopping and once when I'm accelerating
again. I've replaced the radius arm bushings, the rivets with bolts
(ugh!),
the anti-vibration clips on the brakes as the old ones were rusted away,
and the auto-hubs with ones that actually do something other than
sit there. The funky sounds have been diminishing with every fix, and
now I'm down to this one. Any suggestions?
And now for some potentially useful information instead of all
the usual question-asking that I do. :) I had the problem with the front
brakes where the floating assembly wasn't floating and was wearing
down my brake pads way too quickly (and was making the expected
the-brakes-are-overheating smell). I didn't feel like dumping any money
into this since it just seemed like something needed some greasing,
so that's what I did. I popped out the little metal dowel/cylinder things
that the mounting bolts go through, cleaned the dried gunk off of them,
and blew out the rubber boots that they are inserted into since they
seemed to have some gunk in there too. I then took wheel-bearing
grease and packed some into the rubber boots, inserted the
dowel/cylinder things, moved them around a little to make sure the boot
was seated and sealed, and bolted everything back up. It's been about
10,000 miles so far and there's been no recurring brake problems.
Hope that helps someone save a couple bucks.

- -Mike

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Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 00:28:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Turbo16 webtv.net (Turbo !)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E-250 Destroyed

Sorry to hear about your accident, but I have some info for you. Last
year my Bronco II caught fire and the ins. co. totalled it. I told them
about all the work I had done to it and they told me that if I had
reciepts that they could work with me. Since then I bought an 88 Full
size Bronco and KEEP all the reciepts and a log of what and when I did
it. Good Luck!
Chris

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Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 00:29:12 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil rust proofing

We have had that done and many times it is worse than nothing if it dries
out and peels. If you have the undercoat applied, spray the whole
undernieth every few years with fuel oil to keep the stuff soft and pliable.

Blake

>Listen to the voices from the NorthWest (Norway, even!) :
>
>It is almost mandatory to have your vehicle treated with "Tectyl" by
>Tuff-Cote Dinol (made by Valvoline) at least every 4 years, preferably every
>2-3 years. This is gunk with an attitude, thin stuff for hollow areas, more
>massive stuff for under the body (can even be painted over) and asfalt-like
>consistency for the wheel wells and other wear areas.
>
>I just bought two litres of the heaviest stuff together with an air
>applicator for my compressor; total cost around $40.
>A professional whole-car treatment is around $250 for a Ford Festiva, $500
>for an E-van. A large car takes around 7 gallons total! As soon as it dries,
>it does not smell. And unless you use diesel or kerosene when washing your
>truck, it does not come off involuntarily.
>
>Even my dad, who has been living in Vegas for quite some time now, wanted to
>coat his newly re-restored 60 Eldo convertible.
>
>My E-van has no rust, even if we have lots of salt in the air (have to wash
>our windows after storms) and our roads are salted during the winter.
>
>Cheers!
>
>Bjornar
>1990 E-250 Club Wagon
>1994 Escort 1.3i (wifemobile)
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
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"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 00:32:50 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 5.0 L camshaft....


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