From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #200
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80-96-list-digest Sunday, July 18 1999 Volume 03 : Number 200



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - EEC RELAY
Re: FTE 80-96 - Got the tires....Now what?!? (long)
FTE 80-96 - Steering column completed
Re: FTE 80-96 - Very Intermittent horn
FTE 80-96 - AC switching from Vents to Defrost
Re: FTE 80-96 - AC switching from Vents to Defrost
FTE 80-96 - New Ford Owner
FTE 80-96 - Electric Fan Suggestion
FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil rust proofing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric Fan Suggestion
Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric Fan Suggestion
FTE 80-96 - Newbee to the list
Re: FTE 80-96 - Newbee to the list
Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric Fan Suggestion
FTE 80-96 - stalling f150
RE: FTE 80-96 - stalling f150
FTE 80-96 - Fan clutch?Rust
FTE 80-96 - 5.0 L camshaft
Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric Fan Suggestion
Re: FTE 80-96 - stalling f150
FTE 80-96 - Fan Clutch Test
FTE 80-96 - Vacuum leak detection

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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 06:58:23 -0500
From: "ROB SARTORIUS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - EEC RELAY

Does anybody know what to do to test for a bad eec relay to the eec-iv
computer. I can't get any codes from a new EEC-IV installed. The fuse is
working.



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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 08:59:12 -0400
From: Martin Horne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Got the tires....Now what?!? (long)

>
>I also noticed that when passing vehicles on the highway, the truck will
>still gear down and power up enough to pass okay, but if I push it too
>much, I notice a slight rattle coming from the engine.
>
>3) Is this what pinging is, or could this be lugging (sounds like
>lugging to me - but this is an automatic) as a result of the speedo,
>etc. not being reset yet? This one makes me a little nervous as the
>truck already has 133K on that wee 302. A compression test 6 months ago
>gave me pretty good readings - ie. all were ~130 except for two which
>were ~125. If I change the speedo setting which changing the rpms and
>electronic trans, will this go away (assuming this is lugging), or is
>this something more to do with the gearing?
>


I don't want to be a prophet of doom, but on mine the rattle went away when
I changed the engine. I had already looked for rattling heat shields,
risers etc. as it sounded like that but concluded it must be internal to
the motor. Never did figure out exactly what it was, as it went back with
the core. What did I care? Hope it's not the case with yours.

As far as I could tell my motor had 185K on it at the time and was FULL of
carbon and sludge. Also the compression was low, oil pressure low (none at
idle when hot), front and rear oil seals leaking etc. etc. so it just
seemed easier to throw a new one in.

Good luck.

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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 10:16:28 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Steering column completed

Ok guy for those of you that were reading my prior posts, Im the guy who had
the steering column with tilt and cruise control, and the column collapsed
while i was driving allowing the tilt to just flop around. I had asked about
taking the unit apart to repair ir but i thought that woud be just as
expensive as just changing a column to a junkyard unit.
Apparently these units are as valuable as gold, cause I called every junkyard
within a thirty mile radius on NYC, and noone had one. I ended up going out
on the teletype and one had to be shipped in from Indiana.. one of only two
onthe teletype.
Well the swap was east enough to do with the only problems being the
automatic transmission gear selector lever.. it slides into its hole on the
column linkage , and its kind of like putting the square peg in the round
hole on the in and the out.
Other than that the job was easy, and one again the truck runs well
Nowi pulled apart the old colum and found the gears stripped and one of
theother gears that retains the position snapped out, and the column would
have been difficult or impossible to repair.
So anyway being that this took a week to get the column sent to me from
Indiana ( dang UPS and their SLOW drivers) I have a weeks worth of backed up
work to do so im gonna get to it
Later All
Bob
ROlson1039 aol.com
89F250 2WD ( alive again after transplant)
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 10:55:57 EDT
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Very Intermittent horn

Get a set out of a 91 Cadilliac, there are 5 total. /They sound like a
freight train.

Brian
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 11:34:22 -0400
From: Hal Davis
Subject: FTE 80-96 - AC switching from Vents to Defrost

I've a 94 F150 XLT 146,000 which is starting to switch between dash
vents on AC to defroster. Any suggestions where to start looking?
Hal Davis
Nokomis, FL

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Date: 17 Jul 1999 08:53:59 -0700
From: "Paul Laughlin"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AC switching from Vents to Defrost

Hal Davis wrote:
>
> I've a 94 F150 XLT 146,000 which is starting to switch between dash
> vents on AC to defroster. Any suggestions where to start looking?

I would look for a defective check valve in the vacuum lines.
Paul in Portland OR
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 13:42:30 -0400
From: "Joey Deckard"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Ford Owner

I posted a question yesterday about my new F-150 that I recentlty bought.
I forgot to mention that it is an 86, I checked my message several times
and still left that out. BTW, I am new to the list, and am very glad to
see this forum dedicated to Ford trucks. Thanks in advance for any help!



Joey Deckard
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 14:07:24 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Electric Fan Suggestion

Hey guys,
I was wondering what electric fan I should consider for my truck.
Anyone else switch? What brand(s) did you use? How did you wire up the
relay(s)? What size did you use? I wouldn't want to get a fan that dosen't
flow as well as my stock fan does. With my body lift on the way, and knowing
there will be a cooling problem because of the interference with the shroud,
the electric fans seem a simple solution to a simple problem. I was going to
eliminate the factory fan anyway, but just not this soon.

Thanks,

Joe
Lost in Jersey
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 23:13:32 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnar_Huse?=
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil rust proofing

Listen to the voices from the NorthWest (Norway, even!) :

It is almost mandatory to have your vehicle treated with "Tectyl" by
Tuff-Cote Dinol (made by Valvoline) at least every 4 years, preferably every
2-3 years. This is gunk with an attitude, thin stuff for hollow areas, more
massive stuff for under the body (can even be painted over) and asfalt-like
consistency for the wheel wells and other wear areas.

I just bought two litres of the heaviest stuff together with an air
applicator for my compressor; total cost around $40.
A professional whole-car treatment is around $250 for a Ford Festiva, $500
for an E-van. A large car takes around 7 gallons total! As soon as it dries,
it does not smell. And unless you use diesel or kerosene when washing your
truck, it does not come off involuntarily.

Even my dad, who has been living in Vegas for quite some time now, wanted to
coat his newly re-restored 60 Eldo convertible.

My E-van has no rust, even if we have lots of salt in the air (have to wash
our windows after storms) and our roads are salted during the winter.

Cheers!

Bjornar
1990 E-250 Club Wagon
1994 Escort 1.3i (wifemobile)

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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 17:15:34 EDT
From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric Fan Suggestion

ok there are several types of fans you can go with with. i like the black
magic i just had installed today if operates of the ac and can be manually
turned on too. it has its own tstat with can be set anywhere from 180 degrees
to 240 degrees im runnin it as of now at 200 degrees. so far i love it, it
gives me more horses and better acceleration cause i the stock fan is gone
and there is no drag on the engine. it also helps on workin on the truck
with the shroud out of the way and the stock fan out of the way. it was
costy about 200 $$$$ but in my opinion well WELL worth for those long hot
days stuck in traffic in the lovely(not) county of cobb. the fan also comes
on and stays on while the ac is on.. hope ya find one ya like

luke
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 17:35:43 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric Fan Suggestion

In a message dated 07/17/1999 5:18:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Lwskywalk aol.com writes:


gives me more horses and better acceleration cause i the stock fan is gone
and there is no drag on the engine. it also helps on workin on the truck
with the shroud out of the way and the stock fan out of the way. >>

Keep me updated on this luke, especially the traffic and slow
moving situation. NYC traffic dosen't exactly move well and the slow speed
wheeling I do would mimic traffic situations. Where did you get it, pusher
or puller and how big is it?

Thanks,

Joe
Lost in jersey
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 18:44:04 -0400
From: Cliff McLarty
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Newbee to the list

Cliff McLarty
Marion, NC
1988 F-150, 4x4, auto, 351w (Jasper recond.) second engine.

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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 19:01:21 EDT
From: DENKC5 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Newbee to the list

Hi Cliff,
Fairly new myself. A couple of questions I can ask and a bunch totally over
my head questions I can't answer. What I can say is that I think I helped a
couple of owners, at least I think so. My old 79' F150 has been picked up by
a good buyer, a father and son team that want to restore her.

Specific questions, shoot, I'll help where I can.
Dennis
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 20:52:25 EDT
From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric Fan Suggestion

its a pusher that is mounted on the backside of the radiator. its called a
black magic it was designed for the mustang. i sat in traffic for about
thirty mins with the ac on max and the needle did not move a bit. i would
strongly suggest to anyone who has the money.

luke
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 21:00:18 -0400
From: Bob Hirsch
Subject: FTE 80-96 - stalling f150

Hello Everyone --

I 've got an 84 F150 4x4 with the 302 and C6 auto. 128K on the odometer.

The truck runs OK for about an hour from a cold start, then it stalls and won't restart until it has cooled. This happens both idling in my driveway and being driven on the road.
When it happens on the road it occurs when I slow down for a traffic light or turn and then won't accelerate, stalls and won't restart. In the driveway it just spudders and dyes from an idle and then won't restart until it cools down.

I have no idea if it's related or not but the other, less severe problem is that it squeals like a pig for 60-90 seconds on acceleration right after it starts.

The ignition system checks out OK so I think I'm losing fuel, not spark, but......

Any ideas?? And are the two problems related in any way?

Thanks for any help/suggestions

Bob

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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 21:17:35 -0500
From: "Webdoc"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - stalling f150

Does this truck have the EEC IV ignition? If so, check the TFI module, they
are notorious for crapping out when hot. You might also check the coil.
Mine did the same thing for a few weeks until it quit altogether. Replacing
the coil did the trick.

As for the squeal, is your front main seal leaking a little oil? Mine was,
sprayed the belts and caused the squealing on acceleration.

Webdoc
Email webdoc arkansas.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Bob Hirsch
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 1999 8:00 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - stalling f150

Hello Everyone --

I 've got an 84 F150 4x4 with the 302 and C6 auto. 128K on the odometer.

The truck runs OK for about an hour from a cold start, then it stalls and
won't restart until it has cooled. This happens both idling in my driveway
and being driven on the road.
When it happens on the road it occurs when I slow down for a traffic light
or turn and then won't accelerate, stalls and won't restart. In the
driveway it just spudders and dyes from an idle and then won't restart until
it cools down.

I have no idea if it's related or not but the other, less severe problem is
that it squeals like a pig for 60-90 seconds on acceleration right after it
starts.

The ignition system checks out OK so I think I'm losing fuel, not spark,
but......

Any ideas?? And are the two problems related in any way?

Thanks for any help/suggestions

Bob

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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 19:18:31 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fan clutch?Rust

>I have noticed that the fan does not seem to "roar" like it did in
>previous situations.Fan/clutch does not show any obvious signs of wear. >Appreciate any ideas/advice. I have also noticed little rust bubbles >above the rear tires starting to form.

Sounds like you need a new fan clutch.The fan should also roar when you
first start the truck in the morning .Don't buy a cheap clutch,get a
H.D. or towing one.

>Or is this a needed undercoat on the cheaper steel used in recent >models?

The rear fenders on my 76 rusted in the same spot as my 84.I don't think
they use cheaper steel in the later trucks,but less of it to lighen them
up.
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 22:25:57 EDT
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 5.0 L camshaft

Hello,
Can anyone give me some information on a cam that will
deliver a good low end torque for pulling a 5th wheel camper. I have a '93
302 F-150 and need some info. Also, is there a chip that will have to be
added or changed for the fuel delivery (fuel inj.).
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 22:28:29 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric Fan Suggestion

In a message dated 07/17/1999 8:56:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Lwskywalk aol.com writes:


a
black magic it was designed for the mustang. i sat in traffic for about
thirty mins with the ac on max and the needle did not move a bit. i would
strongly suggest to anyone who has the money. >>


Where did you get it? How big is it? Summit racing? Jegs? How is
the mounting? Permenant or those zip tie things?How did you set up the
electrical? Switched? Relay with a temp sender or is it internal?

Thanks again,

Joe
Lost in jersey
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 00:13:08 EDT
From: SailSD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - stalling f150

Try checking the crankshaft pulley to see if the outer part of the pulley is
slipping on the rubber between the inner an outer parts. I had something
similar happening with our Volvo about two weeks ago. Good luck!
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Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 00:42:18 EDT
From: craig n eggerman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fan Clutch Test

This post got me to thinking. According to my Jeep shop manual the test
for a fan clutch is to block the air flow to the radiator and observe and
listen to the fan. Put an meat thermometer or one of those nice digital
thermometers on the top of the radiator and watch the temperature. Check
the temp with the one in the cab if you have a temp gauge in the cab.
When the radiator temperature gets close to 210 the fan clutch should
engage. It will roar and there should be a lot more air coming out the
back of the radiator.
If there is no roar and the temp keeps on climbing the clutch is shot.
I am sure the Ford shop manual has a similar test.
Craig
Eggerman juno.com
Casper,Wyoming
O|||||O

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