From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #199
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80-96-list-digest Saturday, July 17 1999 Volume 03 : Number 199



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - RE: Rust Bubbles
FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil
FTE 80-96 - Re:AC compressor problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:AC compressor problem
FTE 80-96 - F150 Explorer
Rust proofing (wad Re: FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re:AC compressor problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: David Anderson? startup speed
Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Explorer
FTE 80-96 - So long... Don't have a Ford anymore
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: David Anderson? startup speed
Re: FTE 80-96 - So long... Don't have a Ford anymore
Re: [Rust proofing (wad Re: FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil]
FTE 80-96 - New Ford owner
FTE 80-96 - Re: Where is everyone?
FTE 80-96 - Hey!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:AC compressor problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:AC compressor problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Hey!!
FTE 80-96 - 92 F-150 Body lift
FTE 80-96 - RE: 884 F150 Brakes
FTE 80-96 - Got the tires....Now what?!? (long)
FTE 80-96 - Re: Overheating at idle
Re: [Rust proofing (wad Re: FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil]
RE: FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 08:38:20 -0400
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Rust Bubbles

Yep, my fathers 92 F150 300 I6 has rust bubbles starting above
the real wheels also. He never washes his during the MI winters
though. This seems to be a problem w/ Ford trucks. Once you see
the rust it's too late because they rust from the inside out.

> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:04:35 -0500
> From: Robert M Sands
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fan clutch
>
> I have a 92 F150 300 I6 and ....... I have also noticed little
> rust bubbles above the rear tires starting to form. This truck
> has only 72K on it and I have babied it the whole time. Anyone
> else seeing rust ? And of course it wasn't noticeable until it
> was a year out of warranty. Thanks
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 07:26:01 -0700
From: "Ken Brayton"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil

Blake,

How many years have you been doing this on your truck and do
you really notice that it helps?

Would you mind explaining to me in more detail how you go
about doing this job?

What sort of sprayer do you use?

How much hydraulic oil does it usually take?

Do you pressure wash or anything before you do the job and
does the metal need to be bone dry?

Does the oil break down any of the rubber components like
door seals, hoses, etc. (I'm guessing not since you are
doing it inside your door)?

Any other application tips on this jobs?

Thanks in advance.

Ken Brayton
Albany, Oregon
94 F150 XLT 4X4 5.0L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton

>Too late for your truck now, but the best thing to do is
spray the entire
>bottom of your truck and inside the doors with hydraulic or
another
>non-detergent oil every year before winter.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 10:39:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: throckmon webtv.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:AC compressor problem

List,
Having a problem .When I switch on AC it wants to stall truck out,if
left on it will. 177 K on unit,so it might need to be replaced.Anyone
have one,or a source for one?.About how much should I expect to pay?
Thanks in advance.
markas
P.S. auto store here has 30 lb. R12 for $450.Is this a decent price?

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 11:07:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: throckmon webtv.net
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:AC compressor problem

- --WebTV-Mail-16270-4304
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I am talking about the compressor!
Thanx !!


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Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 10:39:15 -0400 (EDT)
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:AC compressor problem
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List,
Having a problem .When I switch on AC it wants to stall truck out,if
left on it will. 177 K on unit,so it might need to be replaced.Anyone
have one,or a source for one?.About how much should I expect to pay?
Thanks in advance.
markas
P.S. auto store here has 30 lb. R12 for $450.Is this a decent price?

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --WebTV-Mail-16270-4304--
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 11:15:17 -0400
From: "Kevin"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 Explorer

While looking for a used truck, I've come across an '85 F150 XLT Explorer.
What did the Explorer package add to the truck?

Thanks,
Kevin

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 11:48:22 -0400
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Rust proofing (wad Re: FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil

Any oil will work. This isn't an elegant solution, folks, just something
quick and dirty that works.

We used to use ATF because it penetrates well, but hydraulic fluid will do
as well. Diesel oil probably works the best because there is some wax in it
that helps to coat the metal. (I had an ancient Dodge PU that had been used
for a construction company fuel truck - the body was rotten, but where the
diesel fuel had spilled, the bed was like brand new.) Years ago, they used
to use a mixture of kerosene and engine oil. The only problems are 1) some
of the solutions smell pretty bad, and 2) it only lasts about 6 months. You
don't need anything fancy to do the spraying - a cheap garden sprayer would
probably be best - but any way to get the oil up there will do the job.
There is nothing fancy about the application, and I don't think that any of
the above will damage rubber - after all the rubber items on a car or truck
get exposed to a lot worse than a little shower of oil from time to time.

Ken Brayton wrote:

> Blake,
>
> How many years have you been doing this on your truck and do
> you really notice that it helps?
>
> Would you mind explaining to me in more detail how you go
> about doing this job?
>
> What sort of sprayer do you use?
>
> How much hydraulic oil does it usually take?
>
> Do you pressure wash or anything before you do the job and
> does the metal need to be bone dry?
>
> Does the oil break down any of the rubber components like
> door seals, hoses, etc. (I'm guessing not since you are
> doing it inside your door)?
>
> Any other application tips on this jobs?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Ken Brayton
> Albany, Oregon
> 94 F150 XLT 4X4 5.0L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton
>
> >Too late for your truck now, but the best thing to do is
> spray the entire
> >bottom of your truck and inside the doors with hydraulic or
> another
> >non-detergent oil every year before winter.
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 11:51:18 -0400
From: "Little, Ned"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re:AC compressor problem

I have been ordering from this mail order parts house and have had no
problems. On the things I have ordered they have been considerably lower
price for the exact same part than locally. They have an online catalog
where you can look up your own part.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.discountautoparts.com/index.html

- -----Original Message-----
From: throckmon webtv.net [mailto:throckmon webtv.net]
Sent: Friday, July 16, 1999 11:07 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:AC compressor problem


I am talking about the compressor!
Thanx !!

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 12:09:13 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: David Anderson? startup speed

The fast idle on start up is the EEC-IV making sure that the timing can be
advanced. For a short period after startup the EEC-IV checks several engine
operating parameters including the ability of the computer to advance the
timing when required. The MAP Sensor reports engine load to the computer
which uses the information to adjust spark advance and fuel enrichment. The
MAP Sensor measures intake manifold pressure and vacuum on an absolute scale
(from zero instead of from sea level [14.7 psi] as most gauges and
sensors do).
I have had the same problem in the past and it turned out to be a vacuum
leak. In my case it was a vacuum leak in the hose that runs from the intake
manifold to the MAP sensor. Obviously, if the intake manifold vacuum is not
right the MAP sensor will not operate properly and the spark advance won't
react properly.
I would suggest checking all of the vacuum lines and the bolts on the intake
manifold, carb, etc.. Don't forget the lines that may run to remote places
like the transmission. Particularly the bolts on the intake manifold. You
may have a vacuum leak somewhere that is causing the problem.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 12:11:07 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Explorer

I have no idea what the Explorer package added but I sure would like to get
my hands on that truck. If you don't buy it let me know where it is.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 12:50:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - So long... Don't have a Ford anymore

Well I just wanted to say one final thanks to a few people (can't
remember all your names) but the two that really stick out are Jim
Cannon and Dave H. along with the rest of ya for all your help on the
various problems with my truck. I would also like to thank Ken for
all the hard work that goes into this site and makes it as great as
it is. Someday I hope to have a newer Ford, so hopefully this list
will still be running strong!

Thanks again (especially to all of you whose names I can't remeber!!)

===
Casey Vandor http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
'77 CJ-5 "JPTHNG" D30 open, 304, T150, D20, AMC 20 open
Used to have an '83 F-250 4x4 (miss it everday....)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 13:00:07 -0400
From: Martin Horne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: David Anderson? startup speed

Thanks for the explanation! I have had this problem since I put a new Long
Block in. I just replaced the entire hose fro the intake manifold to the
MAP sensor with one piece of vacuum hose I had laying aroun and the engine
is doing the fast-idle start-up and also running a lot smoother.

Thanks again.


At 12:09 PM 7/16/99 -0400, you wrote:
>The fast idle on start up is the EEC-IV making sure that the timing can be
>advanced. For a short period after startup the EEC-IV checks several engine
>operating parameters including the ability of the computer to advance the
>timing when required. The MAP Sensor reports engine load to the computer
>which uses the information to adjust spark advance and fuel enrichment. The
>MAP Sensor measures intake manifold pressure and vacuum on an absolute scale
>(from zero instead of from sea level [14.7 psi] as most gauges and
>sensors do).
>I have had the same problem in the past and it turned out to be a vacuum
>leak. In my case it was a vacuum leak in the hose that runs from the intake
>manifold to the MAP sensor. Obviously, if the intake manifold vacuum is not
>right the MAP sensor will not operate properly and the spark advance won't
>react properly.
>I would suggest checking all of the vacuum lines and the bolts on the intake
>manifold, carb, etc.. Don't forget the lines that may run to remote places
>like the transmission. Particularly the bolts on the intake manifold. You
>may have a vacuum leak somewhere that is causing the problem.
>
>Michael McCarthy
>Export, PA
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 14:32:34 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - So long... Don't have a Ford anymore

Casey,
Take it easy buddy, remember...once a Ford man always a Ford man!
later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
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------------------------------

Date: 16 Jul 99 14:15:25 PDT
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [Rust proofing (wad Re: FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil]

Question about this thread--since I have no rust on my 82, might this oil=

spray be a protection where salt is used on the roads in the winter? Ken=
in
Albany won't see that any more than I do in the Portland area, so maybe w=
e
don't need to do it. On the other hand, folks in the midwest and northea=
st
may be really in need of it. =


Or is this a needed undercoat on the cheaper steel used in recent models?=


Bill in Portland

Mike Sloane wrote:
> Any oil will work. This isn't an elegant solution, folks, just somethin=
g
> quick and dirty that works.
> =

> We used to use ATF because it penetrates well, but hydraulic fluid will=
do
> as well. Diesel oil probably works the best because there is some wax i=
n it
> that helps to coat the metal. (I had an ancient Dodge PU that had been =
used
> for a construction company fuel truck - the body was rotten, but where =
the
> diesel fuel had spilled, the bed was like brand new.) Years ago, they u=
sed
> to use a mixture of kerosene and engine oil. The only problems are 1) s=
ome
> of the solutions smell pretty bad, and 2) it only lasts about 6 months.=
You
> don't need anything fancy to do the spraying - a cheap garden sprayer w=
ould
> probably be best - but any way to get the oil up there will do the job.=

> There is nothing fancy about the application, and I don't think that an=
y of
> the above will damage rubber - after all the rubber items on a car or t=
ruck
> get exposed to a lot worse than a little shower of oil from time to tim=
e.
> =

> Ken Brayton wrote:
> =

> > Blake,
> >
> > How many years have you been doing this on your truck and do
> > you really notice that it helps?
> >
> > Would you mind explaining to me in more detail how you go
> > about doing this job?
> >
> > What sort of sprayer do you use?
> >
> > How much hydraulic oil does it usually take?
> >
> > Do you pressure wash or anything before you do the job and
> > does the metal need to be bone dry?
> >
> > Does the oil break down any of the rubber components like
> > door seals, hoses, etc. (I'm guessing not since you are
> > doing it inside your door)?
> >
> > Any other application tips on this jobs?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Ken Brayton
> > Albany, Oregon
> > 94 F150 XLT 4X4 5.0L
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton
> >
> > >Too late for your truck now, but the best thing to do is
> > spray the entire
> > >bottom of your truck and inside the doors with hydraulic or
> > another
> > >non-detergent oil every year before winter.
> >
> > =3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/f=
aq.html
> =

> --
> =

> ------------
> Mike Sloane
> Allamuchy NJ
> (msloane att.net)
>
> =

> =

> =3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq=
=2Ehtml


____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webm=
ail.netscape.com.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 08:07:02 -0400
From: "Joey Deckard"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Ford owner

I recently purchased a short bed F-150, 4x4, auto, 351 (4-barrel holley),
Lariat with all the bells and whistles. I bought it from the original
owners widow and it only has 83k on it, and other than a little bit of a
rough idle, it runs like a top. I know that it has a New Process
transfer case , with a ford rear-end and a Dana IFS front and the
tranny is the regular 3spd. I would like to find out some information
about it, type of tranny, gear ratio etc. I would also like to purchase a
good repair manual, I bought the one by Haynes, but I would really like to
find one that is specifically for my truck, anybody know where I can find
such a manual? I also have a question regarding my oil pressure; after the
engine heats up, and I stop, say at a red light, the pressure slowly goes
to zero, if I put it in neutral, it goes back up to slightly below halfway.
But at highway speeds it is fine, it runs between the "o" and the "r" on
the "normal" guage. I spoke to one mechanic about it and he said the 351's
do that and it isnt anything to worry about, but it still bugs me when I am
setting and look down and and my oil pressure has bottomed out. I was also
wondering about whether the 3spd has a lock-up torque converter? The
shift points vary with the amount of throttle applied, it shifts fine, but
at hwy speeds it acts like it really,really needs another gear to shift
into, maybe like it is geared really low. Anycomments/suggestions and
especially information about my new (to me anyway!) truck would be greatly
appreciated!



Joey Deckard
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 17:44:28 -0400
From: JLUCS peddie.org (JLUCS)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Where is everyone?

Hightstown, NJ

'96 F350 XLT Crew Cab PSD 4x4 LWB SRW
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Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 19:18:39 -0400
From: "Nathan Edward Green"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hey!!

Hey folks,
I am new to this list, so please don't blast me for such a long post.
About 6 months ago I found a F-150 in great shape. An old man had owned it and
had driven it very little, and then it sat in a barn for a long time. It is a
1985 F-150 Shortbed, SWB, with the 302 2bbl, and 3 speed automatic combo. When
I bought it, the truck had only 16k miles on it!!! :) I have taken great pride
in renewing the truck to original condition. I have changed the rims to snazzy
aluminum ones, change of rubber. The truck has been painted to original Oxford
white. All the belts, hoses, gaskets, etc. have been changed to new condition.
Also, exhaust was replaced with dual outlet, more free flowing outlets. The
truck runs great...just like new.
My only problem with the truck is gas mileage. :( With the thirsty V8
carburated model and 3 speed automatic, I only get around 11-13mpg.(The EPA
estimates from the window sticker were 13city/14hwy). I guess my first question
is...is there any way to increase the mileage? I am thinking about a K&N
filtercharger...do you think this will help? Comments?
With only the 16 gallon standard tank, I can only go about 180 miles
between fill ups. This is my next project...I ordered a 38 gallon replacement
tank at Autozone. Of course, this tank will mount in the rear...where the 2nd
"duel-tank option"(which my truck doesn't have) would mount. I will lose my
spare tire mount though. It is my understanding that all I need to do is mount
the tank, move the fuel nozzle to new tank. Then all I need to do is extend the
fuel pickup to the engine to reach the new tank. Since the fuel pump is on the
engine block...it should be just that simple to draw fuel from the new tank.
The tricky part will be to route the fuel filler hose from the current
fuel door directly behind the cab to the new tank behind the rear axle. With my
truck being a shortbed, I think I can make it work!! From what I can see, the
fuel "pickup line" is located right at the fuel filler assembly--where it
attaches to the tank. Is this correct? Has anyone done this modification? Is it
as easy as it seems or am I forgeting anything?
Please send any suggestions or comments you have. Thanks!

Nate


- --
C/Lt Col Nathan Edward Green--(Now a happy AS700)
negreen unity.ncsu.edu
(919) 833-9658

*************************************************************************
"I've got a B.S. in BS"
-Myself, in MEA444 Class

"I'm a scientist Mr. Roark, Certainty is a very big word for me."
-Dr. Amy Barnes:"Volcano"

"Well, If you want something badly enough, dreams have a way of coming true."
-EADA Ben Stone, "Law & Order"

*********************************************************************

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Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 19:30:21 -0400
From: "Steve"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:AC compressor problem

Sounds to me like it's high. I have one that I replaced for a new, shiny
Sanden compressor. It ran great when I took it out and has 100k on it!
I'll sell it cheap.


My Sanden really bolted right in an ran $250, but you can pick up an
unpolished one for around $190.

From:

> Having a problem .When I switch on AC it wants to stall truck out,if
> left on it will. 177 K on unit,so it might need to be replaced.Anyone
> have one,or a source for one?.About how much should I expect to pay?


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Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 19:34:18 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re:AC compressor problem

if youre not looking for a fancy one ive seen them go for $60 used around
here in the junkyards
Bob
89 F250 2WD
Rolson1039 aol.com
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Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 20:00:33 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hey!!

In a message dated 07/16/1999 7:21:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
negreen eos.ncsu.edu writes:


carburated model and 3 speed automatic, I only get around 11-13mpg.(The EPA
estimates from the window sticker were 13city/14hwy). I guess my first
question
is...is there any way to increase the mileage? I am thinking about a K&N
filtercharger...do you think this will help? Comments? >>

How about an Overdrive trans?

Joe
Losdt in Jersey
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Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 20:06:31 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 92 F-150 Body lift

Anyone do a Body lift on one of these trucks? I'm looking at 3". Anything
need to be extended? Wires cut? Trans linkage? Steering? How about the
Fan?

Thanks,

Joe
Lost in jersey
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Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 17:27:10 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: 884 F150 Brakes

Stacy,

My 85 150 doesn't hiss but I have to stand on the brakes to get them to stop
short. I asked the list back a few months how to check for a leaking brake
booster but received no replies. Walt

> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:07:35 EDT
> From: MRStace84 aol.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 84 F150 Brakes
>
> Mine is hissing any time, that I have the pedal pushed. Whether the truck
> is
> at a stop or I am moving the pedal downward. After further investigation
> I
> have noticed that I am starting to have to press harder to get the truck
> stopped, which seems to be a good indication of a bad booster. Did anyone
>
> else notice having to press the pedal more firmly?
>
> Thanks
> Stacy Fisher
>
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Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 19:27:04 -0700
From: redmist mb.sympatico.ca
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Got the tires....Now what?!? (long)

Okay. First I want to thank everyone for their help regarding the new
tires for my rig. I just installed 32X11.50-15 BFG MT's on my factory
7.5" aluminum wheels. They look GREAT!!!

I decided to forget the 33's and go with the 32's, simply because I was
too paranoid about power loss, afetr hearing all the comments about my
gross 3.31:1 gears. Instead of ending up approx 2.94:1 after changing
to the 33's, I now probably have somewhere around 3.03:1. Still not
great, but better than 2.94.

I went with MT's because...well...they looked cooler, and uhh....well, I
figured I could always another set of studded tires on for winter if
they turned out to be just too crazy. In the meantime, I want to go
where the other tires fear to tread.

Now I have a few quirks I have to work out with your help.

First of all, there was a bit of rubbing on the control arms which I
don't care about, and knew would happen, on hard U-turns. The brake
hoses in the front loop upwards on turns, and the left one, although the
metal portion of the hoses is bent away the furthest from the tire, is
the one that rubs against the sidebiters the most. I'm not sure if this
is cause for too much concern, as the hose probably bounces away from
the tire, but I wonder whether I should buy shares in the hose MFG. So
here is my first question(s):

1) How easy/expensive is it to reroute them? Should I worry? Can you
buy som that are braided? Can I change these myself if I buy a manual,
or should I take it in?

The air dam in the front, looked like it would never even come close to
the tire. Once I drove on the tires for a while and heard a bit of
rubbing on turns, I noticed that the tires were clipping the corner of
the airdam. I considered removing it, but instead, cut the corners
off. I want to install tow hooks in the front, so I may still do that,
or simply make cut-outs for them if all else is well. One problem
solved.

I then decided to check the inflation of the tires as a couple of people
mentioned the 8" minimum width rim and tire wear (mine are 7.5" wide).
I noticed that the fronts didn't look too bad, but the back were
definitely running in the center of the tread with about 1.5" on each
side not touching. I tried the water thing on my garage floor, but
finally switched to painting the tread with chalk and driving down the
highway a bit. In order to get the front to have full contact, I was at
28 pounds. In the back, I stopped at 24 pounds, and I still have about
1/2-3/4" on each side not touching. The ride is getting a bit bouncy.
Since the tires were hot, I figure this 24 pound reading was actually
higher than it would be cold . In that case, I wonder what they
are down to, or how low I can go before they are too crazy for highway
travel? Question number two:

2) What kind of pressures should I be running with these tires, on and
off road? If I have to go too low, should I just live with the center
wear on the rear, and rotate more often to get the wear to be even? I
bought these tires at Costco, and they will rotate them as often as I
want for free. Someone mentioned every oil change. Will this take care
of the problem?

I also noticed that when passing vehicles on the highway, the truck will
still gear down and power up enough to pass okay, but if I push it too
much, I notice a slight rattle coming from the engine.

3) Is this what pinging is, or could this be lugging (sounds like
lugging to me - but this is an automatic) as a result of the speedo,
etc. not being reset yet? This one makes me a little nervous as the
truck already has 133K on that wee 302. A compression test 6 months ago
gave me pretty good readings - ie. all were ~130 except for two which
were ~125. If I change the speedo setting which changing the rpms and
electronic trans, will this go away (assuming this is lugging), or is
this something more to do with the gearing?

4) Do you think a steering shock is wise investment, or are there other
things I should worry about first, like main shock upgrades, winches,
etc.?

That should just about cover it. I haven't hit any good mud yet, but I
did get some muddy gravel in the lugs from my driveway. It shure
sounded cool when all those clumps came off in the wheels wells. It
sounded like grenades going off down there!! My wife was a little
worried at first, but I just grinned.

I also don't think the noise is all that bad. It's sort of a low groan
that seems to be louder when coasting or braking, than when driving.
Maybe the motor noise drowns it out. I did notice that in the 24 hours
that I've had the tires, they've gotten louder. I guess the theory
that they get louder as the wear is true. maybe the guys at the tire
shops were right. They all told me I'd need to wear earplugs in the
truck. I never had four guys try so hard to talk me out of buying
something in my life!! One guy told me if I drove them on the highway,
they'd be worn out in a month! I smiled and told him if they did, I
would bring them back! Costco has a 30 day satisfaction guarantee. If
I don't like thires, I can bring them back and all I lose is the $10
government tire disposal fee. I even get my lifetime balancing fee
back. I don't intend on doing that, but it sure shut the guy up in a
hurry!

Thanks in advance for the help!

Sheldon Charron,
Manitoba, Canada


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Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 21:53:47 -0700
From: "Mark Behling"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Overheating at idle

Had a similar problem with my truck, right after the warranty expired. It turned out to
be the thermostat, in which Ford offers a new and improved design. Also the new part
number supercedes the old one. I think there might have be a problem with the old
design, as mine appeared to be stuck slightly open. Of course the new design came at my
expense, but so far the temp. gage is rock solid. Truck also seems to run better,
previously the fluctuating temperature may have been confusing the computer.

Mark
'96 F150 I6 5spd



>Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:04:35 -0500
>From: Robert M Sands
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fan clutch

>I have a 92 F150 300 I6 and was noticing when idling for an extended
>period that temp gauge will climb higher than usual. I'm the original
>owner so I am familiar with the quirks of this truck. It never gets hot
>enough to shut down, and will cool down when you pick up rpm's. I have
>noticed that the fan does not seem to "roar" like it did in previous
>situations.Fan/clutch does not show any obvious signs of wear. Appreciate
>any ideas/advice. I have also noticed little rust bubbles above the rear
>tires starting to form. This truck has only 72K on it and I have babied
>it the whole time.
>Anyone else seeing rust ? And of course it wasn't noticeable until it
>was a year out of warranty. Thanks


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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 01:31:57 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: [Rust proofing (wad Re: FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil]

Well I just got this truck last fall from West Virginia and it has
certainly helped over the winter. Things rust here fast, and it prevented
it. I plan on hitting it again this fall before it gets wet out. Pick a dry
autumn day and wash the bottom with water and go for a long drive to dry it
out good. Then spray your oil on and drive it down a dusty dirt road. That
makes it gum up and stay on longer.

I use a pressure pot paint sprayer (the kind you can use to latex your
house). You can then put pressure on the oil and mix a little air into the
oil itself to kinda vaporize it a little. This makes it soak in better.

I did mine everywhere including under the hood seems, inside the doors and
cab corners, and door posts. It ran out everywhere. I think I used about 2
gallons, but I really wanted to get it saturated.

I don't think the oil would hurt the rubber- I don't know for sure, but
never had any trouble with that. The oil does not stand on stuff like that
for long.

I used hydraulic oil because I had it. ATF is supposed to be good too but
it sure stinks. There are some transmission places around here that will do
it with used ATF for $50. A good way for them to get rid of their oil.
Don't use detergent oil as it will wash off. Drain oil has acids in it that
may be bad too.

Blake


>> > Blake,
>> >
>> > How many years have you been doing this on your truck and do
>> > you really notice that it helps?
>> >
>> > Would you mind explaining to me in more detail how you go
>> > about doing this job?
>> >
>> > What sort of sprayer do you use?
>> >
>> > How much hydraulic oil does it usually take?
>> >
>> > Do you pressure wash or anything before you do the job and
>> > does the metal need to be bone dry?
>> >
>> > Does the oil break down any of the rubber components like
>> > door seals, hoses, etc. (I'm guessing not since you are
>> > doing it inside your door)?
>> >
>> > Any other application tips on this jobs?
>> >
>> > Thanks in advance.
>> >
>> > Ken Brayton
>> > Albany, Oregon
>> > 94 F150 XLT 4X4 5.0L
>> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


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Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 11:20:57 -0400
From: Greg Carter
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Hydraulic oil

Just about any lube shop offers this service around here. I would guess it
is common in most northern areas. The only drawback is working on your
truck after, messy...

Its easy to spot trucks/cars that haven't been sprayed, lots of rust. My
'91 had never been sprayed until last year (I got it used), it now has rust
coming in over the rear tires. My friends 84 F150 had been sprayed every
year by its first owner, no signs of rust.....

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