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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #195
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80-96-list-digest Tuesday, July 13 1999 Volume 03 : Number 195



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - 1985 F-150 heated air intake
Re: FTE 80-96 - Manual Transmission fluid
FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134
Re: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134
FTE 80-96 - Engine Stall on Start-Up
Re: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134
FTE 80-96 - Steel Directional rims, 3.55 gears and LimSlip Carrier
RE: FTE 80-96 - Sway bars
AW: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: What area is everone In????
FTE 80-96 - Re: Manual Transmission fluid
FTE 80-96 - T-18
FTE 80-96 - T-18
Re: AW: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134
FTE 80-96 - "The BEAST" Lives again!
FTE 80-96 - E4OD O/D failure
Re: FTE 80-96 - "The BEAST" Lives again!
Re: FTE 80-96 - T-18
Re: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134
FTE 80-96 - Grindin'gears
Re: FTE 80-96 - E4OD O/D failure
FTE 80-96 - 84 F150 Brakes
Re: FTE 80-96 - Manual Transmission fluid
FTE 80-96 - Electric fans
Re: FTE 80-96 - T-18
Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric fans
Re: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134
Re: FTE 80-96 - explorer performance results....

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 06:57:23 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1985 F-150 heated air intake

Thanks to Jim Cannon for the advice on the heated air intake problem. After
I posted my question I found a small note in my emissions control manual
that identifies this device as a Vacuum Retard Delay Valve. (I read the
vacuum schematic incorrectly. The P/D MTR is on the end of another line. Bad
eyes and age.) My guess is that the manifold vacuum changes rapidly
depending on load and as a result the vacuum motor would be opening and
closing when cold rather than staying closed to help engine performance. As
Jim said, 'when you step on the gas' or when you decelerate.
Yes, mine is acting like a check valve and basically never "leaks". The
bimetal vacuum valve that senses temperature is also out of calibration. It
won't close unless I put an ice cube on it. It was still open at 55 degrees
the other morning. The guy at the parts store can get me one but it costs
$18. He suggested it would probably be cheaper at the Ford dealer. That's a
new one!

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA



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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 06:11:10 -0500
From: bgarrett
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Manual Transmission fluid

my wife has '90 f-150 5sp with over 200k miles of pulling horses (several were
big ones- 17 hands) and the trans has held up. it has had just regular atf in
it. now my '92 explorer 5sp is another thing. i would readily agree it is a pos.
have 90k on it, no off road, and the thing started whining bad. i took it out
and the counter shaft and input shaft were starting to chew on each other. i
don't know how folks can take these things off-road, i wouldn't think the trans
could take it. i did put synthetic in it before taking it down and it still made
a lot of noise but it did shift smoother. and i put synthetic back in it when i
put it back in and it seems to shift fine. i guess i should of put saw dust in
it and sold the thing.

Jim Cannon wrote:

> At 21:51 11/07/99 +0100, you wrote:
> >I have a 93 F-150 x-c, 4x4, with a 300-6, Mazda 5 speed and a 3:55 rearend.
> >The manual claims 3000 lbs. max for towing. The same set up except with a
> >auto tranny is rated for around 5000 lbs. Heck my old Toyota 4 cyl was
> >rated at 3500 lbs. I want to pull a small travel trailor with it at around
> >4500 lbs. I was also going to use Mobile 1 synthetic ATF and try to put a
> >tranny oil cooler on it. Anyone have any thoughts on this or towed a
> >similar load with this set up. I hate to leave gears on the road! Anyone
> >installed a oil cooler for this tranny? Thanks
>
> OK, first of all, NO TRANSMISSION COOLER WILL CONNECT TO THIS TRANSMISSION!
> It is a manual transmission and there is no pump to push the fluid through
> a cooler. (Good idea, though.)
>
> Now that we have THAT out of the way...
>
> The engineers at Ford have put the weight limit if the trailer you tow with
> this transmission at 3000 lbs because they know that it is a very
> lightweight transmissiona and if you try to pull more than that for very
> long or very far that it will likely fail and you will not be happy :-(.
> Why don't people trust the engineers at the manufacturer to know what they
> are talking about?!? You have a lightweight POS tranny there and if you
> overload it, it will LET YOU DOWN. Anyone on the list with the Mazda
> 5-speed that think very highly of it?
>
> Now, about the Mobil 1 synthetic ATF... It is NOT recommended for your
> transmission. It is too slippery. It won't shift right. If this were an
> automatic transmission and you were thinking of pulling a travel trailer I
> would say it was worth the added thermal stability that synthetics offer.
> But it's not, so I don't.
>
> Later.
>
> Jim Cannon
> Houston, TX
> '29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
> '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 07:44:01 -0400
From: "Alger, Timothy, CTR, AFSAA/SAT"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134

I have a 86 F150 and need to replace the condensor and dryer. Since I have
to replace these parts I was looking onto retrofitting for r134 freon. I
know Ford sells a kit but I am not sure what parts are changed. Has anyone
else made this conversion? If so what were some of the pros and cons you
came across. All input would be appreciated.


thanks
Tim Alger
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 08:10:39 -0400
From: Martin Horne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134

On my '86 Bronco I used parts bought for less than $50.00 from Auto-Barn.
If you're replacing the condensor and dryer you're halsf way there as the
most important bit is to get as much of the old oil out of the system as
possible. The new (I believe it's "Ester") oil is compatible with the old
seals and hoses, so you just follow the instructions and fill it up. Mine
works great on 134 and I didn't replace any parts. Big Pro is that the 134
is only $5.00 a can, old stuff is unobtainable. I believe JC Whitney sells
a complete kit with oil, leak stopper, 134, filling hose and adapters for
less than $50.00 also.

Hope this helps

Martin Horne
LI, NY

At 07:44 AM 7/12/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 86 F150 and need to replace the condensor and dryer. Since I have
>to replace these parts I was looking onto retrofitting for r134 freon. I
>know Ford sells a kit but I am not sure what parts are changed. Has anyone
>else made this conversion? If so what were some of the pros and cons you
>came across. All input would be appreciated.
>
>
>thanks
>Tim Alger
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 08:48:36 -0400
From: Martin Horne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Engine Stall on Start-Up

Sorry if this is a duplicate post, but I havn't seen it go out yet.

Can anyone help with some Ideas? I have an '86 Bronco with a 302w that I
have just replaced with a long block. After some initial problems the
engine is running well and pulling strongly, but whenever I go to start it
after more than 5 minutes stopped, it stalls on the first go. Thereafter it
starts and runs fine.

To date I have replaced the following during the rebuild:

Main computer
EGO Sensor
EGR Sensor
EGR Valve
Plugs
Cap/Rotor
Wires

I have also cleaned and inspected the idle bypass valve.

Am I missing something obvious?

Thanx in anticipation
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 09:17:07 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134

Im not one for playing with the Air Conditioner system, so when my air
conditioner went in the spring, I took it to a shop who ive dealt with for
years. They told me changing over to theR134A comprises of changing a few O
Rings and removing all the old R12 freon from the system and putting in the
new refrigerant.. It took them about forty minutes to get this done , and
they changed a hi pressure hose on the system and i think a sensor all for
about $200.
The only drawback is that the new refrigerant does not cool as well as the
R12, so onthe really oppressively hot days the AC dont pump the way it used
to, but its better than nothing.. My other vehicle has the old refrigerant in
it, and that cools quicker and much better..
If i had more money to spend on this, I would definately go back to the R 12
So for whatever its worth...thats my two cents
Bob
ROlson1039 aol.com
89 F 250 2WD
97 Dodge Caravan SE
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 09:28:59 -0400
From: "Golly, Scott M"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Steel Directional rims, 3.55 gears and LimSlip Carrier

Gentlemen,

I don't know I am aloud to sell on this list, If I am not supposed to,
sorry. I have in my grubby little paws four 1994 Ford directional steel
rims for a 4x2 F-150 for sale, make me an offer. I also have a set of 1990
gears: 3.55 Gears and limited slip carrier for a Ford 8.8 rear and Dana 44
front rear, these gears and carrier came out of a truck with 45,000 miles
on it and are in great shape. I only replaced them because I went to 4.10
and a Detroit locker. Contact me at any of the below contacts or at home at
410-592-2565.

Scott M. Golly
Researcher/Fire Protection Engineer
Work: 410-569-0200
Gollys battelle.org

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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 09:39:28 -0400
From: "Ratcliff, Dale"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Sway bars

Try JC Whitney. They have the sway bars for the front and rear.

Dale Ratcliff
92 F150 SC



- -----Original Message-----
From: AJSyndergaard webtv.net [mailto:AJSyndergaard webtv.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 1999 4:20 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Sway bars


I have a 93 F150 s/b 2wd that I have lowered 3 inches in the front and 4
inches in the rear. The truck did not have sway bars originally, but I
would like to add them now. Does anyone out there know of a application
or manufacture for this truck, particularly for the front?
Thanks,
Alan

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 15:47:21 +0200
From: "Ucen, Thomas, PRE"
Subject: AW: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134

When my A/C failed recently, the shop I went to tried to fill the =
system
with R413, supposedly an identical replacement to R12 (banned by law in
Germany). Works with the current system without changing oil and seals. =
I
don't know how it works yet because I'll have to replace a melted hose
first. Does anyone know this stuff?

Tom
1993 Aerostar 3.0L

- -----Urspr=FCngliche Nachricht-----
Von: ROlson1039 aol.com [mailto:ROlson1039 aol.com]
Gesendet am: Montag, 12. Juli 1999 15:17
An: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Betreff: Re: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134

Im not one for playing with the Air Conditioner system, so when my air=20
conditioner went in the spring, I took it to a shop who ive dealt with =
for=20
years. They told me changing over to theR134A comprises of changing a =
few O=20
Rings and removing all the old R12 freon from the system and putting in =
the=20
new refrigerant.. It took them about forty minutes to get this done , =
and=20
they changed a hi pressure hose on the system and i think a sensor all =
for=20
about $200.=20
The only drawback is that the new refrigerant does not cool as well as =
the=20
R12, so onthe really oppressively hot days the AC dont pump the way it =
used=20
to, but its better than nothing.. My other vehicle has the old =
refrigerant
in=20
it, and that cools quicker and much better..
If i had more money to spend on this, I would definately go back to =
the R
12
So for whatever its worth...thats my two cents
Bob
ROlson1039 aol.com=09
89 F 250 2WD
97 Dodge Caravan SE
=3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info =
http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jul 1999 09:18:31 -0700
From: William Street
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: What area is everone In????

Gilroy (Garlic Capital of the World) California



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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 09:44:25 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Manual Transmission fluid

>>>I have a 93 F-150 x-c, 4x4, with a 300-6, Mazda 5 speed and a 3:55
rearend.
>>>The manual claims 3000 lbs. max for towing. The same set up except
with a
>>>auto tranny is rated for around 5000 lbs. Heck my old Toyota 4 cyl
was
>>>rated at 3500 lbs. I want to pull a small travel trailor with it at
around
>>>4500 lbs. I was also going to use Mobile 1 synthetic ATF and try to
put a
>>>tranny oil cooler on it. Anyone have any thoughts on this or towed a
>>>similar load with this set up?

>The engineers at Ford have put the weight limit if the trailer you tow
with
>this transmission at 3000 lbs because they know that it is a very
>lightweight transmissiona and if you try to pull more than that for very
>long or very far that it will likely fail and you will not be happy :-(.
>Why don't people trust the engineers at the manufacturer to know what
they
>are talking about?!? You have a lightweight POS tranny there and if you
>overload it, it will LET YOU DOWN. Anyone on the list with the Mazda
>5-speed that think very highly of it?
>Now, about the Mobil 1 synthetic ATF... It is NOT recommended for your
>transmission. It is too slippery. It won't shift right. If this were an
>automatic transmission and you were thinking of pulling a travel trailer
I
>would say it was worth the added thermal stability that synthetics
offer.
>But it's not, so I don't.

I have a '94 F150 2WD, also with the 300ci 6, Mazda 5-speed, and
3.55 rear gear. I have been running Mobil 1 synthetic ATF for over a
year now, and I have found that the tranny shifts at least as well under
normal conditions and MUCH MUCH BETTER in sub-zero weather (cold dinosaur
juice ATF made it feel like I was shifting a milkshake!).
For occasional "heavy" towing, I suspect your Mazda will live. If
you were towing a backhoe every day or something, that would be
different. Mine has spent many long weekends pulling horse trailers
(which are both heavy and about as aerodynamic as a parachute), and has
had no obvious ill effects (it has 50K miles) except for the progressive
failure of the stock U-joints (since replaced with greasables).
By the way, I'm not disagreeing with Jim Cannon here. Exceeding the
manufacturer's recommendations does indeed qualify as abuse, and most
likely will shorten the life of any truck. Ditto drag racing,
off-roading, and most of the other activities indulged in by the members
of this list. Do I care? No. It's a truck, it's MY truck, and until I
can afford an F350 and a Mustang my F150 will have to double as both. It
will break. I will fix it. It will wear out. I will replace it. I
will maintain it lovingly. I will abuse it mercilessly. I will NOT
knowingly endanger the life and property of other people, but neither
will I lose sleep over the possibility of breaking a few parts. JMHO, of
course.

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150 300ci
'73 F100 FE in pieces


___________________________________________________________________
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Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 11:58:23 -0500
From: "Joel Thomas"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - T-18

is the T-18 in my 84 f-150 4x4 a strong tranny??
also is the 9in rear a strong rear end??

thank you?

Joel Thomas mailto:treefort prodigy.net
1984 F-150, 351W, 9", T-18,
Edelbrock intake,Holley 750 vac,
33" BFG MT's.
Little Rock,Ar





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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 12:00:04 -0500
From: "Joel Thomas"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - T-18

is the T-18 tranny in my 84 F-150 a strong tranny??
also is the 9in rear a strong rear end??

thanks

Joel Thomas mailto:treefort prodigy.net
1984 F-150, 351W, 9", T-18,
Edelbrock intake,Holley 750 vac,
33" BFG MT's.
Little Rock,Ar





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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 13:49:32 -0400
From: Martin Horne
Subject: Re: AW: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134

Never heard of R413. Are you sure they didn't mean R134 ?


At 03:47 PM 7/12/99 +0200, you wrote:
>When my A/C failed recently, the shop I went to tried to fill the system
>with R413, supposedly an identical replacement to R12 (banned by law in
>Germany). Works with the current system without changing oil and seals. I
>don't know how it works yet because I'll have to replace a melted hose
>first. Does anyone know this stuff?
>
>Tom
>1993 Aerostar 3.0L
>
>-----Urspr=FCngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: ROlson1039 aol.com [mailto:ROlson1039 aol.com]
>Gesendet am: Montag, 12. Juli 1999 15:17
>An: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Betreff: Re: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134
>
>Im not one for playing with the Air Conditioner system, so when my air=20
>conditioner went in the spring, I took it to a shop who ive dealt with for=
=20
>years. They told me changing over to theR134A comprises of changing a few O=
=20
>Rings and removing all the old R12 freon from the system and putting in the=
=20
>new refrigerant.. It took them about forty minutes to get this done , and=
=20
>they changed a hi pressure hose on the system and i think a sensor all for=
=20
>about $200.=20
>The only drawback is that the new refrigerant does not cool as well as the=
=20
>R12, so onthe really oppressively hot days the AC dont pump the way it used=
=20
>to, but its better than nothing.. My other vehicle has the old refrigerant
>in=20
>it, and that cools quicker and much better..
>If i had more money to spend on this, I would definately go back to the R
>12
>So for whatever its worth...thats my two cents
>Bob
>ROlson1039 aol.com=09
>89 F 250 2WD
>97 Dodge Caravan SE
>=3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info=
http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 12:29:36 -0700
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - "The BEAST" Lives again!

Hi all,

Just thought I'd recount my recent escapades with my `88 Ford F350
Crew-cab/Dually (460 CID). It all started when the truck suddenly got
louder. That weekend I went to go tighten the exhaust manifold studs, and
noticed that I had blown the exhaust manifold gasket on the number 8
cylinder (rear-most on driver's side). About 5 seconds later my wife comes
running out of the house wondering what was wrong, as I was shouting
obscenities... After seeing the blown exhaust manifold gasket (no big
thing, right?) I notice that BOTH of the exhaust manifold studs on that
cylinder had broken off at the cylinder head. (DAMN - IT!) Further
inspection reveals that I have 3 more broken exhaust manifold studs on the
other side of the engine (one on the number 1 cylinder, 2 more on the number
4 cylinder). Probing the holes verifies that they have indeed broken off,
not simply fallen out.

There's no room to work on them where they're located, so I have to pull the
heads. Pulling the heads means that the truck becomes inoperable. Forgive
me for this next bit, as I must "vent", and in order to do this - I must
stray from the topic for a moment (if you wish to jump past this part, skip
the rest of this paragraph, and the next one too.) This is also why I
wished I lived in the back-woods on about 5 acre's of land... and had a
shot-gun. Let me explain: I live in "suburbia", in a small house, with a
dinky little single-car garage (used as a laundry-room, storage area, and
work-shop), and a very narrow and short drive-way. Needless to say there's
no room for "The BEAST" (F350 Crew-cab / Dually) on the drive-way without it
blocking the sidewalk and sticking out into the street. In most
communities, however, this wouldn't be a problem - you would simply do the
repair in the street, in front of your house, right?. Unfortunately, my
house is 2 doors away from a self-elected "block-captain", who (in her own
defense) does a great job for our block's "community watch" program, which
is intended to reduce criminal activity. The problem is that she is not
simply "watching" for criminal activity, but ANY violation of ANY type of
law or civic code she can find. To put it simply, if I were to start
working on the truck in the street, she'd file a complaint, and I'd get a
citation. Believe me when I say that she has truly earned the nick-name of
"Frau Himmler" that the neighborhood calls her.

On that Saturday morning, I pop up the hood of the truck while it is out on
the street to take some photographs of the hoses and wires (etc), and I also
start taking some notes as to what wire goes where - as well as attaching
labels to the wires and hoses. About a half hour after I get started with
this, I notice that the one of the police's "parking enforcement" golf-carts
is making the rounds. Coincidence? Yea, right. I decide to pull the truck
up on the lawn, in front of my house, right next to the driveway (it just
barely fits). The golf-cart driver takes a good long look in my direction,
before parking in front of Frau Himmler's house. The police officer goes
inside for a visit (doughnuts and coffee no doubt). I decide to risk it,
and start taking the engine apart. My non-operational vehicle is on private
property, not on the street, so I should be ok, right? Well, as I'm
unbolting the intake manifold, she walks by and hands me a flyer on parking
regulations, with highlighted paragraphs on the restrictions for parking on
lawns... I could get fined $70 per citation, up to 2 citations per day...
(I honestly felt like shooting her.) We argued for a bit, and she
eventually walked away in a huff, but I guess I won the argument. It turns
out that I didn't get cited, and since the truck was on my lawn for 16 days
straight, I consider myself lucky. Had I been cited, I would have had to
tow the truck to my parents house a couple of miles away, which would make
working on it a bit of a pain, as my tools and compressor are all in my
garage.

Anyway, back to the real subject - the TRUCK... I want to stress here the
importance of taking good notes, pictures, and putting labels on everything
you remove. I'm positive that this attention to detail was what allowed me
to succeed. I spent probably 3 times the amount of time it would normally
take to remove the heads, simply to take notes of what hose and wire plug in
to what... but it was worth it.

I had the heads done at the local machine shop. They extracted the broken
bolts, took it apart, cleaned it up in the hot-tank, planed the surfaces,
replaced the valve seats (seals?), and the exhaust valves. I cleaned up the
block, and the intake manifold. Used a straight edge on both - they were
fine. No cracks... good. I had the intake manifold cleaned up in the
hot-tank too. Got the heads and the intake manifold back, and cleaned them
up again with acetone, then again with rubbing alcohol, masked them off, and
painted them FORD-BLUE with a hi-temp (over 700 deg. F) ceramic based engine
paint. Did the same to the valve covers, too. If it runs half as good as
it will look, I'll be doing fine.

This is where I started to get stupid. REAL stupid. I was so excited about
how well the heads and intake manifold turned out, that I bought the gaskets
(etc), and immediately started to re-install them. After they're in place,
torqued down (etc), I remember the "exhaust manifolds" (DAMN!). I grab the
straight edge, and sure enough - they're warped to hell... what's this?
CRACKS? (Both of them too, it figures.) I call the dealer's parts
department... a new pair of exhaust manifolds will cost about $1100.00
(ouch!). I take the exhaust manifolds to the machine shop, and ask if they
can repair the cracks and then plane out the warpage... the guys there just
laugh at me.

So... the search is on for some headers... I decided on Doug Thorley
Headers due to price ($720 complete "cat-forward" kit) and availability. I
go to pick up the headers (45 minute drive to the distributor) the day after
I order them, and take them home. OOPS... I ordered the wrong ones - I
need the ones with air injection. Back to the shop they go. A couple of
days later I go back to the shop to pick up the new headers when they get
in, I open the box at the shop, headers look ok - so back home I go.
OOPS... I ordered the wrong cross-over pipes (Damn!)... so - back to the
shop again. I get the replacement cross-over pipes the next day -
everything is correct now. Except for the fact that I can't get the headers
into place. Can't get them in from above, or from below (Damn!). SO....
off come the intake manifold and the heads again. WHAT'S THIS???? A
SHOP-RAG in one of the cylinders!!!! (DAMN! How could I have missed
that?!!!) I guess I'm lucky that I had to remove the heads again!!! Once I
recover from the shock - I get the block, heads and intake manifold cleaned
up again, and spend another $150.00 on gaskets (etc). The headers drop
right into place, and the heads go back on like I know what I'm doing. I
spend the next day under the truck loosening, removing and shifting the
exhaust pipes around to get the collectors and cross-over pipes into place.
I have to cut off an air injection pipe that feeds into the cataclysmic
converter in order to do it. I'll fix it later. Getting the air-injection
and the EGR stuff hooked up to the headers took some creativity as well as a
couple trips to the local hardware store. I'll fix that stuff later, too.

I got the intake manifold, throttle body, wires and hoses all hooked up by
late afternoon yesterday. I disconnect the wire between the distributor and
the coil, and turn the engine over to listen for problems. Sounds fine. I
plug the coil back in, and turn the key... it starts on the first attempt!!
YAHOO!

Anyways, it could have been A-LOT worse... blown engine, parking citations,
problems starting (etc)... I'm sure that the notes and labels helped. I
still have a couple of little things to do - fix the EGR pipe and the air
injection into the cat. I also noticed that I'm leaking fluids from both
the oil and the transmission dip-sticks. The pan gaskets should be replaced
as well, and it looks like the oil-pan gasket will be no fun... what do you
have to do, lift the engine?

Hope your projects are less stressful.

Todd McMahon
tmcmahon anacomp.com
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 16:13:08 EDT
From: RobSweed aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E4OD O/D failure

Does anyone know anything about E4OD Over Drive? The trans will not shift
into O/D and the O/D off light in the trans selector lever does not light.
All fuses at the dash are OK. My manual does not show that there is any fuse
or breaker for this.

Thanks in advance,
Bob Sweed
robsweed aol.com
'94 F150 4X4 SC 302c.i.
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 16:27:14 EDT
From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - "The BEAST" Lives again!

Todd,

to change the oil pan gasket you are in for a good days work with a buddy to
help. unbolt the motor mounts jack the engine. take the tanny (6) bell
housin bolts out and the cross member behind the tranny slide the tranny back
oh yeah drop the drive shaft, loosen all oil pan bolts take the old one out
and fish the new one in its harder than it sounds. good luck put it all back
together

luke
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 14:00:46 -0700
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - T-18

With that combination, an F150 can't get any stronger :-)



>is the T-18 tranny in my 84 F-150 a strong tranny??
>also is the 9in rear a strong rear end??
>
>thanks
>
>Joel Thomas mailto:treefort prodigy.net
>1984 F-150, 351W, 9", T-18,
>Edelbrock intake,Holley 750 vac,
>33" BFG MT's.
>Little Rock,Ar


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 18:02:08 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134

Tim,
The conversion process is basically no more than flushing the old Freon and
oils out of your current R12 system, replacing the fittings with the R-134
fittings, and refilling the system with the required oil and R-134 Freon.
Although it is a really simple process and you can get these kits at your
local parts chains (PepBoys, Autozone, Advanced, etc.), it may be better to
let a certified tech flush the system for you. The difference in acidity and
properties of the oils used for the different types of Freon can cause a
breakdown of the 134 and a seriously dangerous condition for you. Once the
system has been cleaned out, then you can do the conversion and recharge
yourself. The conversion is really beneficial to the private owner as anyone
over the age of 16 can purchase R-134 without any kind of certification (I am
Universal and Automotive certified by the EPA) and the cost is much cheaper
(R-12=$20-$30 per can, R-134=$5-$8 per can). Then of course there are the
environmental concerns, with the R-134 being much less corrosive to the ozone
layer. Enjoy doing the conversion, but I will tell you the one downfall of
the conversion, R-134 does not get quite as cold and the R-12. The extreme
"MAX A/C" temps will show a difference of about 10 degrees.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 15:02:08 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Grindin'gears

My 84 f-250 4x2 w/4 spd. shifts smooth as butter,except for
downshifting from 4th to 3rd.It won't go without grinding.
Clutch?Syncros?(It's not operator error)
Also what trans do I have and what lube does it need?
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 18:44:42 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E4OD O/D failure

sometimes the stupidest things happen, and the answers make ya slap yourself
in the forehead and exclaim "Duh"!!! but by any chance did the wires fall out
of the switch.. that happened to me once and the truck did not go into
overdrive
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 21:05:13 EDT
From: MRStace84 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 84 F150 Brakes

Hello Everyone,

I've been working on my 84 F150, I had taken the bed off and all of the rear
brake lines, so I could clean the frame and repaint it. Anyway I'm in the
process of putting everything back, and I hooked all of my brake lines up and
started bleeding them out. When I press the brake pedal I hear a 'blowing'
or 'hissing' noise. When the brake pedal is released there isn't any noise.
I've had this truck off the road for a couple of years, and I don't remeber
it making that noise before. I was wondering if some of you might know what
it could be? The brakes seemed to have bled out alright, so I don't think
the master cylinder or booster is bad.

Thanks,

Stace

84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 23:08:15 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Manual Transmission fluid

>At 21:51 11/07/99 +0100, you wrote:
>>I have a 93 F-150 x-c, 4x4, with a 300-6, Mazda 5 speed and a 3:55 rearend.
>>The manual claims 3000 lbs. max for towing. The same set up except with a
>>auto tranny is rated for around 5000 lbs. Heck my old Toyota 4 cyl was
>>rated at 3500 lbs. I want to pull a small travel trailor with it at around
>>4500 lbs. I was also going to use Mobile 1 synthetic ATF and try to put a
>>tranny oil cooler on it. Anyone have any thoughts on this or towed a
>>similar load with this set up. I hate to leave gears on the road! Anyone
>>installed a oil cooler for this tranny? Thanks
>
>OK, first of all, NO TRANSMISSION COOLER WILL CONNECT TO THIS TRANSMISSION!
>It is a manual transmission and there is no pump to push the fluid through
>a cooler. (Good idea, though.)
>
>Now that we have THAT out of the way...
>
>The engineers at Ford have put the weight limit if the trailer you tow with
>this transmission at 3000 lbs because they know that it is a very
>lightweight transmissiona and if you try to pull more than that for very
>long or very far that it will likely fail and you will not be happy :-(.

There just too darned high geared in first and reverse to do much with any
load. This transmission should never have been put in a truck.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 22:52:35 -0500
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Electric fans

Is there any advantage to having the electric cooling fans on the radiator
and if you use them do you keep the original fan shroud if you remove the
engine mount fan. How are they working so far if you do have them?

Thanks......

Scott Harris
'85 F150 Supercab
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 23:37:43 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - T-18

>is the T-18 in my 84 f-150 4x4 a strong tranny??
>also is the 9in rear a strong rear end??
>

Absolutely on both counts!


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 23:58:04 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric fans

Sean,
Definitely upgrade to an electric fan if you have made huge horsepower gains,
and keep the stock fan shroud to mount it in....will help out with the
cooling properties.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 00:15:06 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - r12 to r134

Hello,
I disagree about R134 not as cold as R12. I have an 89 E-250 Cargo Van that I
did a change from R12 to R134. This change consisted of changing to a R134
compressor (mine was shot anyway) new orifice tube, new accumulator, new o
rings vacuumed out the system and filled it with R-134. Its ice cold. I live
in Florida where its hot and the humidity is like soup. I feel its just as
cold as the R12 was. I have to turn it down during the day it blows so cold.
Changing the accumulator is very important when you are installing a new
compressor. Also installing an auxillary fan on the condensor keeps the
tempature and head pressure down on the compressor and the ac cold while....


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