From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #181
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80-96-list-digest Tuesday, June 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 181



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Door Chime Wont Stop
RE: FTE 80-96 - horsepower
FTE 80-96 - Rusted Studs - new rock band or weal problem?
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-list-digest spam
FTE 80-96 - Which year/drivetrain would be best?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Which year/drivetrain would be best?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Which year/drivetrain would be best?
FTE 80-96 - Very Intermittent horn
Re: FTE 80-96 - tire pressure
Re: FTE 80-96 - Very Intermittent horn
FTE 80-96 - Lunar Visor
FTE 80-96 - IH Diesel Use in Other Brands
Re: FTE 80-96 - tire pressure

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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 07:49:18 -0400
From: Allen Baldwin
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Door Chime Wont Stop

Gentlemen...many thanks for the replies to my problem. I was able to
locate the door chime switch inside the door at the latch and found the
electrical connector (plug) had fallen out. Re plugging solved the
problem!!! Regards, Allen Baldwin

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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 11:38:49 CDT
From: Jett Rink
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - horsepower

LPG is not widely available here in the U.S. and there is a high conversion
cost (which is entirely tax deductable, though). At one time propane
conversions were popular, but they did not produce much power and the cheap
cost of propane was offset by atrocious fuel economy. I've noticed that some
of the new Super Dutys are available equipped for dual fuel (as well as the
F250 LD).

>Hi there,
> Pardon me for dropping in on the threads of H/power & Mileage and the
>hassles of installing yet more computers etc, and of course I am not privy
>to your particular circumstances, but is LPG a viable option for you ?


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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 17:24:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Arthur Dembinski
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rusted Studs - new rock band or weal problem?

I had to have a rear tire on my 1983 F250 HD replaced
after a blowout, and I was not able to loosen the lug
nuts due to rust. The AAA man used a 5 foot bar to
loosen the worst 5 out of 8 studs. He told me I
should have the studs replaced to prevent this from
happening again. These studs have always been covered
by hub caps, and all of them appear badly rusted. The
rear drums appear to be in 2 pieces. How are the
studs replaced?
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 99 19:06:44 PDT
From: don neomagic.com (Donald Paauw)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-list-digest spam

>p.s. I still think I'm getting a LOT more spam since joining the list???


I am getting ZERO spam after being on the digest for six months.
Also none from the small & perf lists (non-digest).

- -- Don
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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 22:31:14 -0400
From: Tom Crowe
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Which year/drivetrain would be best?

Thanks for all the responses to my previous post "Buy a '85 F150 or '78".
Turns out that the '78 is actually a '67 I6 300 3 speed.

I think I'll pass on the '85. I'd love to have the '67, but I don't know
what I would be getting into trying to get it into decent shape. The
engine has a LOUD knock, so it needs to come out (it would be nice to put a
V8 back in it's place!) and you have to hold the gear shift in position to
keep the drivetrain engaged. The reason I'm considering this is because I
can get it cheap and then work on it as I get a few bucks here and there.
But, I have no idea what I'm getting into as far as finding parts and their
expense, etc.. Anyone have experience doing this?

On the other hand, I could just hold out for a newer model or at least one
in better shape. But as I have seen in some of the posts, some
years/drivetrains seem to be better than others. So, what would be the
best year/drivetrain to look for?

Thanks,

Tom
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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 22:39:59 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Which year/drivetrain would be best?

" A FEW BUCKS" famous last words.. trust me here guy.. this truck will suck
out every penny you make.. its a money pit despite the potential.. you will
eat live breathe etc to support this thing...Its worse than a wife or an EX
WIFE....this is a PROJECT truck something to play with when youre bored you
need something for transportation this is NOT for you...
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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 19:55:02 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Which year/drivetrain would be best?

Ifit is a '67 it might not be a 300 I-6, but a 280 I-6. Not a bad engine,
with the same basic block as a 300, and probably kind of hard to find parts
for. Otherwise a '67 F-100 would make a great, simple, reliable truck. As
far as what drivetrain/year is best, it really depends on what YOU want out
of the vehicle.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tom Crowe
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, June 28, 1999 7:30 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Which year/drivetrain would be best?


>Thanks for all the responses to my previous post "Buy a '85 F150 or '78".
>Turns out that the '78 is actually a '67 I6 300 3 speed.
>
>I think I'll pass on the '85. I'd love to have the '67, but I don't know
>what I would be getting into trying to get it into decent shape. The
>engine has a LOUD knock, so it needs to come out (it would be nice to put a
>V8 back in it's place!) and you have to hold the gear shift in position to
>keep the drivetrain engaged. The reason I'm considering this is because I
>can get it cheap and then work on it as I get a few bucks here and there.
>But, I have no idea what I'm getting into as far as finding parts and their
>expense, etc.. Anyone have experience doing this?
>
>On the other hand, I could just hold out for a newer model or at least one
>in better shape. But as I have seen in some of the posts, some
>years/drivetrains seem to be better than others. So, what would be the
>best year/drivetrain to look for?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tom
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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 22:03:01 -0500
From: "Phil Jern"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Very Intermittent horn

My 96 2x4 has developed an irritating habit of muteness. The horn, has, for
all intents and purposes, stopped working.

I have swapped the relay, checked all the appropriate fuses, etc. I have
cruise control, and *sometimes* the horn will blow immediately after I turn
it (CC) off. (If I remember to try it....)

I've tried applying different pressures (both pushing and pulling) and
turning the wheel while trying to toot. No dice. Same for changing the tilt
of the wheel.

I'm beginning to suspect the slip ring that (somehow) connects the wheel
mounted controls to the rest of the electrical system.... but looking at the
schematics, I can't for the life of me figure out how it works... and it
seems to share wires in common with the various cruise control
switches....AND THEY WORK FINE EVERYTIME!

I've taken out the buttons and cleaned the contacts in the wheel, as well.

I just went out to the truck and accidentally brushed against the
wheel...... and the damn horn sounded. Deliberately trying immediately
thereafter produced...... nothing.

It's enough to make me turn to strong drink........

Phil


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Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 00:31:19 EDT
From: Mobilepdr aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tire pressure

I posted a letter a few weeks ago but i don't recall seeing any
replys so i figure i'd try my lil question again...About tire pressure...One.
The max posted on the side wall is that just for saftey or do they want you
to to keep your psi in that area or at that specific pressure...Two. when
towing i've heard people say to raise the psi 4lbs above the max is this true
or even safe...Three if i lower my pressure to say 28-30 with the max of the
tire being 35 will i have any uneven wear, i like to lower the psi to keep
the ride nice and comfortable with people in the truck or when driving in the
city..Also how about keeping tire pressure maxed out when doing a lot of
highway driving would this show a noticeable increase in mpg..Or will this
result in uneven wear.....ding
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Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 23:49:10 -0500
From: Matthew Banevich
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Very Intermittent horn

Can you hear the relay clicking.....

Maybe you have to adjust the tune of the HORNS themselves, or even
replace the horns, maybe they only want to work at a specific temp....
or other condition try using a test light to see if they are getting
power
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Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 04:43:53 GMT
From: Hummer Luvver
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Lunar Visor

Does anyone have a used Lunar Visor they would be willing to sell. I'm
gonna get one for my '88 F-150. If not...do you know who's got the best
deals on Lunar Visors?---HL


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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 22:07:49 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - IH Diesel Use in Other Brands

Since Navistar is now using the T444E in many medium trucks, it got me
wondering if they had used any of the old V8s such as the 7.3 or 6.9
which would have been referred to as the B175. I wonder if they had an
exclusive marketing agreement with Ford or if this somehow came about
after they sold Harvester to Case, or if they maybe just didn't think
the non-turbo had enough power. Also, does anyone know how the current
444 stacks up to the DT466? It seems that the power and torque specs
are identical.

Birken
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Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 00:23:00 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tire pressure

See comments below:

At 00:31 29/06/99 EDT, you wrote:
> I posted a letter a few weeks ago but i don't recall seeing any
>replys so i figure i'd try my lil question again...About tire
pressure...One.
>The max posted on the side wall is that just for saftey or do they want you
>to to keep your psi in that area or at that specific pressure...

That is the max safe pressure cold. Do not exceed that pressure cold.

Two. when
>towing i've heard people say to raise the psi 4lbs above the max is this
true
>or even safe...

You have probably heard people say to add 2-4 psi above the manufacturers
recommended cold tire pressure if towing or carrying heavy loads. You only
need to add about 2; 4 is a lot. But, when you do so you should never
exceed the max tire pressure on the side of the tire when cold. This
assumes you are using tire recommended by manufacturer. If not, talk to
tire shop for reccomended pressure.

Three if i lower my pressure to say 28-30 with the max of the
>tire being 35 will i have any uneven wear, i like to lower the psi to keep
>the ride nice and comfortable with people in the truck or when driving in
the
>city..

Don't get hung up on max pressure on side of tire. Use manufacturer's
reccomended pressure as best guide and starting point. If you want to go a
little below that (1-2 psi) in the city, lightly loded you can. Best wear
will be with manufacturer's number for normal load. Some also quaote a max
load number. Use it when loaded.

Also how about keeping tire pressure maxed out when doing a lot of
>highway driving would this show a noticeable increase in mpg..Or will this
>result in uneven wear..

Manufacturer's recommended number is ok for high speed driving unless also
loaded, in which case you want to go up 2-4 psi. You will probablu not
notice the increased mpg, if any (but it does help).

>...ding
UEDB/322

Jim Cannon....


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