From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #177
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80-96-list-digest Friday, June 25 1999 Volume 03 : Number 177



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - 1993 Ford Bronco Problems
RE: FTE 80-96 - Mileage
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need more power for 300
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need more power for 300
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1993 Ford Bronco Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need more power for 300
FTE 80-96 - Brakes get "grabby" when wet
FTE 80-96 - BFG Trac Edge??
FTE 80-96 - I6 power problems continued...
Re: FTE 80-96 - Need more power for 300
Re: [FTE 80-96 - Brakes get
Re: [FTE 80-96 - I6 power problems continued...]
Re: [FTE 80-96 - Brakes get
Re: [Re: [FTE 80-96 - Brakes get]
Re: [Re: [FTE 80-96 - Brakes get]
FTE 80-96 - Dynamat (again) and road noise.
FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushing Replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushing Replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushing Replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - Resetting timing--"bump" timing
Re: [FTE 80-96 - I6 power problems continued...]
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 85 or 78 F-150
FTE 80-96 - Need more power for 300
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushing Replacement
FTE 80-96 - Cams for computer engines

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 08:19:07 EDT
From: OnDuty365 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1993 Ford Bronco Problems

I have a 1993 Ford Bronco with a 302 and one of those $#^% E4OD
transmissions! What I want to do is take out the fuel injection, put in a
351, and put a C-6 tranny in it. I'm tired of this Bronco breaking down and
having to replace transmissions. The second gear keeps going out! Anyone have
any suggestions or ever did a project like this, anything I should be aware
of? Please let me know I need help!
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 09:06:34 -0400
From: "Ratcliff, Dale"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Mileage

CONSUMER REPORTS did a test of gas mileage with the tailgate up or down and
found there was no significant difference. The biggest problem with leaving
the gate down is the tailgate will rust out sooner. The moisture trapped in
the tailgate has nowhere to drain. If you run with the tailgate down, be
sure to put it up after a rain or heavy dew.

Dale Ratcliff
Email : dratc Telxon.com
92 F150SC 351 Auto



- -----Original Message-----
From: Radoje Spasojevic [mailto:rspasoje gte.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 10:24 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Mileage


I picked up 1-2 MPG just from the Filtercharger, plus another 1 MPG from the
mass-air conversion (but the mass-air conversion is too expensive to buy
just for the mileage). Losing the tailgate will definitely help some, but
trucks just aren't going to get very good mileage no matter what.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jo blow
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 85 or 78 F-150


>I am trying to figure out how to get better mpg out of my 93 302. I
>know that a Filtercharger helps, but what else? What kind of headers
>are best. I/ve heard that droppin the tailgate helps too. Might try
>that
>
>--- Dave Harmier wrote:
>> My aunt had an approx. '81 F-100 I-6/auto, that
>> never gave any big trouble.
>> My uncle had an '82 F-150, I-6/4 spd., that REALLY
>> needed a carb.
>> My neighbor has a '78 I-6/std. that REALLY!!!!!!!!
>> Needs a carb!
>> I had a '79 F-150 ('til I wadded it ) and I MISS
>> that darn thing!
>>
>> My take is, the '78 is tougher, and simpler. But a
>> Dallas truck should have
>> a GREAT body!
>> So at least get a couple pics of the 85 before you
>> leap!
>>
>> Dave H.
>> Houston, TX
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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>>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
> >
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 10:37:21 -0400
From: "KA"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need more power for 300

> I've got a '94 F150 with a 300 ...
> It really starts pinging, and I'm wondering if there is a problem, or if
I just need to modify the
> engine to gain some more torque.

Did this problem come on gradually? High mileage?

My high mileage 300 gradually started pinging more and more. I removed the
head and scraped the carbon from the tops of the pistons and removed the
carbon from the valves and head. Ran great after that (the carbon retains
heat and prompts pre-ignition, and a healthy layer of it can increase
compression, which can cause more ping). It's a fairly easy procedure (for
a motorhead) in the 300 as compared to other engines. The dealer and some
service shop will claim that they can de-carbonize an engine using a
machine that circulates detergent through the engine - I do not know if
that treatment is effective (I'm skeptical, only because I know just how
hard you must scrape to remove the carbon).

Ken
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 08:01:00 -0700
From: "Monty Levere"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need more power for 300

I own a 93 regular cab 4x4, I6 300 with a 5 speed, and it is a gutless
wonder. Driving down the highway at 55 mph, and hit a hill and it cannot
maintain that speed. If I pulled the boat (20 foot Bayliner it would suck
up a 1/3 tank of gas in less then 40 miles (18 gal tank). Granted it has
been good to me for 6 years, but I upgraded to a 90 w/7.3 diesel. The
computer and all of the smog stuff took the heart out of the 300. To bad it
was a good motor in its heyday. But I suppose that is why ford discontinued
it in the new trucks.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 09:06:47 -0700
From: redmist mb.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1993 Ford Bronco Problems

OnDuty365 aol.com wrote:
>
> I have a 1993 Ford Bronco with a 302 and one of those $#^% E4OD
> transmissions! What I want to do is take out the fuel injection, put in a
> 351, and put a C-6 tranny in it. I'm tired of this Bronco breaking down and
> having to replace transmissions. The second gear keeps going out! Anyone have
> any suggestions or ever did a project like this, anything I should be aware
> of? Please let me know I need help!

Oh, oh. Just when I was about to ask why my Tranny is seems t be
skipping second gear once in a while. I had it in Low 4X4 the other day
just to haul some wood across the yard so I could crawl across the lawn
and wouldn't wreck the grass. I took it out of low range, and when I
went to take it on the highway after unloading, it revved up super high
in 1, and then appeared to skip to three. When I slowed down at an
intersection, it did it again. When I got into the city, I was planned
to get it checked out, and then it stopped. What the hell does this
mean??

Sheldon Charron,
Manitoba, Canada
'94 F150 XLT SC/SB 4X4, 302, E40D

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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 08:33:23 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need more power for 300

The 300 is the big I6.

Bob


redmist mb.sympatico.ca wrote:

> Jim Cannon wrote:
> >
> > This engine is KNOWN for torque. Sounds like things are not working
> > properly to me, with all that pinging. '94 is new enough that computer
> > should sense knock and retard spark. I think you need to have it looked at.
>
> > >I've got a '94 F150 with a 300, and I'm towing a travel trailer. The
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
> What is a 300?? I thought Ford only made I6's, 302's, 351's and
> diesels. Is this a diesel?
>
> Shel
>
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 12:14:36 EST
From: "James"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brakes get "grabby" when wet

I've had my new (old) 1989 F150 for about 5 weeks and we're still
getting used to each other. Today is the first time I've driven the
truck in the rain and the brakes are extremely "grabby". Is this a
sign that the shoes/pads are due for replacement or is this just a
quirk for my model?

Thanks,
James Hiers

BTW, Does anyone know of a Ford dealer that sells at a discount, I
want to get a Factory shop manual.



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 09:56:51 -0700
From: redmist mb.sympatico.ca
Subject: FTE 80-96 - BFG Trac Edge??

BFG just got back to me in response to an e-mail I sent them a couple of
weeks ago. They suggested I go with a tire of theirs called the Track
Edge. Apparently it is a three ply sidewall LT tire that has a very
agressive tread design and is studdable for deep snow and ice. "Vince"
said that a lot of guys run them studded in B.C. in the mountains and
they are supposed to be BFG's best tire for icy road conditions.
Although, Vince said that policy is to quote the minimum, he told me if
it were him, he wouldn't worry about the 7.5" rims and 11.5" wide
tires. He said if it were him, he wouldn't care and doesn't think I'll
notice any problems with wear for .5", which is exactly what I figured.

As I'm writing this, my fax machine kicked in, and I got a fax from him
on the Trac Edge tire. It certainly does have lots of lugs, but they
all have a fair bit of siping. Unfortunately, they only come in one 15"
size: LT235/75/15!! Maybe what I'll do is run the M/T's for summer
fun, and find some 16" Ford rims to run oversize Trac edge's with studs
in the winter.

BTW, he also confirmed that BFG will be introducing a 32X10.5" tire
within about 1-2 years in the USA in the All Terrain T/A KO.

Sheldon Charron,
Manitoba, Canada
'94 F150 XLT SC/SB 4X4, 302, E40D

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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 11:55:04 +0000
From: summitds axion.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - I6 power problems continued...

Thanks for the replies guys.

> What gearing do you have in the rearend?

The door sticker fell off a couple of years back, so when my wife brings the
truck home tonight I'll have to check the tag on the rearend to find
out.

> AFAIK the EFI 300 was not equipped with a knock sensor, this is the only way
> the computer can "sense" a knock. A solution to the problem might be to try
> running high octane fuel or retarding the base timing a little. Of course
> headers and a K&N filtercharger wouldn't hurt in the power dept.

This coming week I'll be heading up-mountain, so I'll try the higher
octane fuel. This is what the dealer service suggested. I don't think
it's the timing, as I had a full service done a month back (timing,
plugs, fuel filter, air filter etc.)

> Pinging could be caused by any number of things:
>
> - - overheating (check thermostat)
> - - very lean mixture (change fuel filter in last year or 2?)
> - - base timing too advanced
> - - ignition wires cross-firing (are they new; are they well separated?)
> - - partial plugged exhaust (but this usually just results in loss of high
> RPM performance)

As I mentioned above, fuel filter was replaced, and dealer swears the
timing was set proper. I'll have a look at the ignition wires
tonight. The truck was not overheating at all, in fact, the pinging
was apparent when I hit a small hill 5 minutes after I left my
driveway. I'll let you guys know how the next trip goes. A new truck
is out of the question, but any suggestion on headers?

Thanks again. Dwayne.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 15:20:43 -0400
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need more power for 300

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Monty Levere
To:
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Need more power for 300


> I own a 93 regular cab 4x4, I6 300 with a 5 speed, and it is a gutless
> wonder. Driving down the highway at 55 mph, and hit a hill and it cannot
> maintain that speed. If I pulled the boat (20 foot Bayliner it would suck
> up a 1/3 tank of gas in less then 40 miles (18 gal tank). Granted it has
> been good to me for 6 years, but I upgraded to a 90 w/7.3 diesel. The
> computer and all of the smog stuff took the heart out of the 300. To bad
it
> was a good motor in its heyday. But I suppose that is why ford
discontinued
> it in the new trucks.


I had the 300 I6 in my '82 F150. At about 200,000 I replaced it with a fuel
injected version from an '88 F150.
The computerized version is rated at higher torque and much higher
horsepower. While my engine was a little tired, the newer one performed
much better than the carb version ever did. It got better milage besides.
I suspect Ford dropped the engine as it became harder and harder to get it
to pass emissions requirements.

Matt

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------------------------------

Date: 24 Jun 99 14:29:25 CDT
From: Ford Man
Subject: Re: [FTE 80-96 - Brakes get

Grabby brakes are common for those years of Ford pickups (sorry, I don't =
know
the remedy). A factory shop manual can be ordered from http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.heminc.=
com,
a dealer will only refer you to this company as they do not carry shop ma=
nuals
in their parts inventory.

____________________________________________________________________
Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=3D1=

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------------------------------

Date: 24 Jun 99 14:42:30 CDT
From: Ford Man
Subject: Re: [FTE 80-96 - I6 power problems continued...]

As has already been suggested, go with a lower geared ring and pinion set=
up.
This will set you back around $550 parts and labor, next add a better exh=
aust
system (a Gibson Swept Side Cat Back runs around $269), then add either a=
K&N
high flow air filter or fuel injection performance kit (around $40 and $2=
25
respectively). Lastly, a performance module such as Hypertech or Superchi=
ps
will alter your spark curve and mixture to provide you with more power. T=
ags
on rear ends won't always yield any useful information, so you may have t=
o
raise the vehicle and put a chalk mark on the driveshaft and turn the whe=
els
to determine your axle ratio. The later 300 c.i.d. sixes have an excellen=
t
collector on the exhaust, I'm not sure how much you could improve that ov=
er
the factory. These are all easy do it yourself projects that someone with=

limited mechanical knowledge can handle with a minimum of tools and heart=
ache.
Good luck.


____________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 16:15:31 -0500
From: Edward Saunders
Subject: Re: [FTE 80-96 - Brakes get

I tried the link you gave, and hit a deadend. Do you have a different address?
Ed Saunders 86 F-150 302

Ford Man wrote:

> Grabby brakes are common for those years of Ford pickups (sorry, I don't know
> the remedy). A factory shop manual can be ordered from http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.heminc.com,
> a dealer will only refer you to this company as they do not carry shop manuals
> in their parts inventory.
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

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------------------------------

Date: 24 Jun 99 16:56:38 CDT
From: Ford Man
Subject: Re: [Re: [FTE 80-96 - Brakes get]

Sorry, I misspelled it. Should be http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.helminc.com
Edward Saunders wrote:
I tried the link you gave, and hit a deadend. Do you have a different
address?
Ed Saunders 86 F-150 302

Ford Man wrote:

> Grabby brakes are common for those years of Ford pickups (sorry, I don'=
t
know
> the remedy). A factory shop manual can be ordered from
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.heminc.com,
> a dealer will only refer you to this company as they do not carry shop
manuals
> in their parts inventory.
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=3D=
1

=3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.h=
tml


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 17:50:23 -0500
From: Edward Saunders
Subject: Re: [Re: [FTE 80-96 - Brakes get]

Thanks that one works. : )

Ford Man wrote:

> Sorry, I misspelled it. Should be http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.helminc.com
> Edward Saunders wrote:
> I tried the link you gave, and hit a deadend. Do you have a different
> address?
> Ed Saunders 86 F-150 302
>
> Ford Man wrote:
>
> > Grabby brakes are common for those years of Ford pickups (sorry, I don't
> know
> > the remedy). A factory shop manual can be ordered from
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.heminc.com,
> > a dealer will only refer you to this company as they do not carry shop
> manuals
> > in their parts inventory.
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________________
> > Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 18:34:26 -0500
From: "Baldwin, Dave (CPCP Design)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dynamat (again) and road noise.

All,

I almost hate to bring this subject up again, but my parents are having a
little trouble and I need to get some advice.

My parents just purchased a new car, and they are unhappy with it because of
road noise. Now if they had bought the Town Car (they just won't listen...)
they probably wouldn't have this problem. I haven't heard what it's like,
but it's driving mom nuts.

I remember that some here suggested Dynamat (I think that's right, correct
me please if I'm wrong) to quiet "boomy" cabs. Now, this has nothing to do
with car audio here, but are there car audio places that have equipment that
can pinpoint the panels inside the car that are causing the problem, or is
this just a "cut and try"--and maybe not fix--problem? How do you find a
reputable shop to take it to, if something like this can be done?

Thanks in advance.

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX.
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 18:43:31 -0500
From: "Justen R. Noakes"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushing Replacement

Folks,

The rubber insulator on the driver side radius arm looks
as if the covering has been completely chewed away,
exposing the white inner material. The radius arm is also
not centered in the rear support bracket. I have recently
been hearing an unusual rattle and assume the radius arm
is "bouncing" around.
How difficult is it to replace the rear insulator? 1,2,3,4 or 5
beers (1 being easiest, 5 the most difficult).
Do I need to replace the rubber insulator in front
of the support bracket (it looks ok)?
This seems to be a larger task, according to my Haynes.
The cause seems to by my tires rubbing against the
radius arm when turning. The truck is a '95 F150 reg
cab, 2wd with 31X10.5 BFG A/Ts. I haven't seen this on any
tire related emails...any thoughts?

Thanks for the advice in advance,

Justen

jrnoakes texas.net
'95 F150, 4.9 L, 5 spd
'94 Thunderbird, 4.6 L



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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 19:29:44 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushing Replacement

I did this on both sides on my truck, and I did the pivot bushings at the
same time. I would personally rate it a 3 beer job.

There are two options for this:

1. I unbolted each half axel (since I was going to replace the pivot
bushings anyway) pulled them out from under the truck and then bolted it
back in with new radius arm bushing. 3 hrs to take apart, 3 hours to put
back together.

2. Many people on the list propose grinding the rivets off that hold the
read bracket to the frame, undo big not, pull bracket and bushing off,
slide new one on, tighten up nut and bolt bracket back on to frame with
strong (grade 5?) bolts. I think the bolt holes need to be drilled out a
bit. Since I did not do this approach, I can not judge the number of beers
to do it.

Good luck.

At 18:43 24/06/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Folks,
>
>The rubber insulator on the driver side radius arm looks
>as if the covering has been completely chewed away,
>exposing the white inner material. The radius arm is also
>not centered in the rear support bracket. I have recently
>been hearing an unusual rattle and assume the radius arm
>is "bouncing" around.
>How difficult is it to replace the rear insulator? 1,2,3,4 or 5
>beers (1 being easiest, 5 the most difficult).
>Do I need to replace the rubber insulator in front
>of the support bracket (it looks ok)?
>This seems to be a larger task, according to my Haynes.
>The cause seems to by my tires rubbing against the
>radius arm when turning. The truck is a '95 F150 reg
>cab, 2wd with 31X10.5 BFG A/Ts. I haven't seen this on any
>tire related emails...any thoughts?
>
>Thanks for the advice in advance,
>
>Justen
>
>jrnoakes texas.net
>'95 F150, 4.9 L, 5 spd
>'94 Thunderbird, 4.6 L
>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 20:53:39 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushing Replacement

Justen let me put it to you this way.. i tried to do this job myself and i
put it back together and am going to pay someone to complete the job.. I have
air tools and i have a nice set of work stands and all but without ability
to pull the I beam suspension its a horror and the alternative method to
doing the job ( drilling out the rivets and replacing them with bolts on
the bracket this arm attaches to) is not any easier im told.. So i will pay
someone the two hundred or so to let them have the fun, and i will drink them
five beers while they do it
Bob
89 F 250 2WD
ROlson1039 AOL.COM
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 19:02:10 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Resetting timing--"bump" timing

Yup, that's the one, it isn't really a dummy plug, since it closes the
circut when it is plugged in, but it looks like one. With it unplugged the
computer can no longer advance and retard the timing.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: JSC721 aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 11:05 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Resetting timing--"bump" timing


>Hey ,
>What do you mean by disconnecting the SPOUT? Do you mean the dummy plug on
>the distributor wire?
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>

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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 19:43:39 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: [FTE 80-96 - I6 power problems continued...]

These are all fundamentally good ideas to chase on an engine that is
running properly, that you just want to add a little more OOOMPH! to. From
the sound of the original post, I do not think the engine is running right
and I think throwing this stuff at it will fix it. It might make it worse.
I think he needs to sort out the problem, then start adding the "go faster"
stuff.

I wish I knew what to tell him was wrong with the engine. We've suggested
all of the obvious things. Sometimes a malfunctioning EGR will give
excessive ping -- I have not seen that one yet. If the base timing is
correct, then the engine computer might be messed up. That's an expensive
trial-and-error proposition. Dealer should be able to test it(?). One of
the sensors on the tuck might be going bad, but not so far gone as to
trigger a code on the computer. A good mechanic can help find them (one who
can diagnose things based on symptoms and observation, not just to pull
codes). A basic compression test should answer the question about excessive
carbon build-up causing the pinging. I'd check that before I went through
the work to pull the head.

At 14:42 24/06/99 CDT, you wrote:
>As has already been suggested, go with a lower geared ring and pinion setup.
>This will set you back around $550 parts and labor, next add a better exhaust
>system (a Gibson Swept Side Cat Back runs around $269), then add either a K&N
>high flow air filter or fuel injection performance kit (around $40 and $225
>respectively). Lastly, a performance module such as Hypertech or Superchips
>will alter your spark curve and mixture to provide you with more power. Tags
>on rear ends won't always yield any useful information, so you may have to
>raise the vehicle and put a chalk mark on the driveshaft and turn the wheels
>to determine your axle ratio. The later 300 c.i.d. sixes have an excellent
>collector on the exhaust, I'm not sure how much you could improve that over
>the factory. These are all easy do it yourself projects that someone with
>limited mechanical knowledge can handle with a minimum of tools and
heartache.
>Good luck.
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1
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Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 22:56:52 EDT
From: Lwskywalk aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 85 or 78 F-150

well hope your printer has ink and you purse is big. gear ratio is one thing
the lower the gear the less rpms you run at so the less gas you suck.
pullies increased my mileage. headers(hookers), flowmasters, jet
chip(superchip), k&n conical filter charger will increase mileage too, msd
ingnition boxes makes truck burn gas more efficiently, timing bump run 12
degrees and up if possible without the cling clang noise, with all that
except the conical air filter and the chip i am gettin 500 miles to two tanks
in my 94 f150 302 standard cab short bed. so go figure
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 22:47:40 -0500
From: "DannyF"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Need more power for 300

> Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 13:25:17 +0000
> From: summitds axion.net
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Need more power for 300

A fairly common question. Beyond what another poster
mentioned(the K&N/headers) your entering a slim market for bolt-
ons. Clifford Performance specializes in the 300 but at hellacious
prices($600 headers, $400-600 TBs,etc.). Heres what I've learned
through hours of inquiry:

Headers: you might find some coated ones for $350-450 but then
you need a 3" min. pipe out back w/a decent low restriction
muffler...another $200-300? Not all muffler shops are set up for 3"
and will charge you plenty for this "custom" job. Most headers are
not designed to really flow until mid-range and the 300 is not a high
rpm engine. Plus, most truck owners want the power at a lower
rpm. A crossover pipe installed during installation will help bring the
torque curve into a lower rpm however. Another $50-100 for this
"custom" addition.

The K&N Air Filter: most owners don't get the advertised increases
that K&N purports but it helps a little. Theres quite an arguement
over the K&N(unless your selling them!) that it definetly flows more
air but at the expense of passing more particulates. One anal 'ol
timer reports that he has an oil analysis done every year on his
vehicle and after the addition of the K&N, gets results showing a
substantial increased amount of "silica particulates" in his tests.
So its a tradeoff if you believe any of it.

Computer chips: Clifford sells them...$$$. Buyer beware in this
category as many truck/car owners are disapointed in them
whatever the brand.

Cams: Clifford offers at least 1. Competition Cams has an RV hyd.
for $136+shipping thats supposed to be better for low-end torque
over the stock one. Compatible w/the computer, good idle, etc.

Welcome to any other options, opinions anyone can add.





> I've got a '94 F150 with a 300, and I'm towing a travel trailer. The
> power loss going uphill is phenomenal, even though the trailer is
> lightweight (3800 lbs. dry). It really starts pinging, and I'm
> wondering if there is a problem, or if I just need to modify the
> engine to gain some more torque.
> I'm no motorhead by any stretch of the imagination, so any help would
> be appreciated.
>
> Thanks, Dwayne
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>
> ------------------------------

Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 21:02:00 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushing Replacement

I did Option 2 on my 4WD '90 Bronco, as dropping the front axle halves on a
4WD is a little more difficult than on a 2WD. I would only recommend this
method if you have ALOT of patience, some good drill bits, and an air
chisel. It took me about 10 hours over two days to get the job done. Of
course the big advantage of replacing the rivets with bolts is that I was
able to remove the bushings and insert the washer I had left out in about a
half hour once I had finished. Another consideration on 4WD trucks (and
2WD's if you are into the prerunner thing) is that replacing the rivets with
bolts now will make adding a lift that much easier when the time comes.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Cannon
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, June 24, 1999 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushing Replacement


>I did this on both sides on my truck, and I did the pivot bushings at the
>same time. I would personally rate it a 3 beer job.
>
>There are two options for this:
>
>1. I unbolted each half axel (since I was going to replace the pivot
>bushings anyway) pulled them out from under the truck and then bolted it
>back in with new radius arm bushing. 3 hrs to take apart, 3 hours to put
>back together.
>
>2. Many people on the list propose grinding the rivets off that hold the
>read bracket to the frame, undo big not, pull bracket and bushing off,
>slide new one on, tighten up nut and bolt bracket back on to frame with
>strong (grade 5?) bolts. I think the bolt holes need to be drilled out a
>bit. Since I did not do this approach, I can not judge the number of beers
>to do it.
>
>Good luck.
>
>At 18:43 24/06/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>Folks,
>>
>>The rubber insulator on the driver side radius arm looks
>>as if the covering has been completely chewed away,
>>exposing the white inner material. The radius arm is also
>>not centered in the rear support bracket. I have recently
>>been hearing an unusual rattle and assume the radius arm
>>is "bouncing" around.
>>How difficult is it to replace the rear insulator? 1,2,3,4 or 5
>>beers (1 being easiest, 5 the most difficult).
>>Do I need to replace the rubber insulator in front
>>of the support bracket (it looks ok)?
>>This seems to be a larger task, according to my Haynes.
>>The cause seems to by my tires rubbing against the
>>radius arm when turning. The truck is a '95 F150 reg
>>cab, 2wd with 31X10.5 BFG A/Ts. I haven't seen this on any
>>tire related emails...any thoughts?
>>
>>Thanks for the advice in advance,
>>
>>Justen
>>
>>jrnoakes texas.net
>>'95 F150, 4.9 L, 5 spd
>>'94 Thunderbird, 4.6 L
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>Jim Cannon
>Houston, TX
>'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
>'63 Buick Riviera
>'80 Ford F-150
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