80-96-list-digest Friday, April 9 1999 Volume 03 : Number 099



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust Pipe size?
FTE 80-96 - stealing
FTE 80-96 - re: 1995 F250 4X4 EFI460
Re: FTE 80-96 - stealing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.
FTE 80-96 - RE: Performance Question
Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.
FTE 80-96 - Weights
FTE 80-96 - Duel on 4.9 ?
FTE 80-96 - RE: Shock recommendation
Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Weights
Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.
FTE 80-96 - RE: Alignment question / Camber adjustment
Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.
FTE 80-96 - 1995 Explorer Limited
FTE 80-96 - 86F250-runs rough, electronic module ?
RE: FTE 80-96 - 86F250-runs rough, electronic module ?
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Explorer Limited
FTE 80-96 - a question about peeling paint
FTE 80-96 - Canister Purge Valve
FTE 80-96 - Bushings, Shocks etc.
Re: FTE 80-96 - a question about peeling paint
FTE 80-96 - Jason's 97' F-250
Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Alignment question / Camber adjustment
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bushings, Shocks etc.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Oil Pump Pressure
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dual Tank Question
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Oil Pump Pressure
Re: FTE 80-96 - a question about peeling paint
FTE 80-96 - power loss...
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 - 86F250-runs rough, full tank syndrome?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Canister Purge Valve
FTE 80-96 - Air Shocks
FTE 80-96 - Re: Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 08:11:06 -0400
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust Pipe size?

I have an 86 F150 with the 300 I6 and have true duel with 2 1/4" pipes and
dynomax mufflers. It sounds and runs great.
Mike


> Date: Wed, 07 Apr 1999 10:12 -0500
> From: Jason D Odor
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Exhaust Pipe size?
>
> I have a 93 F150 with a 302, I'm putting dual exhaust with
> flowmasters, what is
> the best pipe size to go with when doing a project like this?
> Any advice is
> welcome.
> Thanks
> Jay
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 08:25:43 -0400
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: FTE 80-96 - stealing

Just thought I would pass along that I got all 4 of my chrome valve stem
caps stolen off my wheels the other day. It baffles me why someone would
steal such a thing. It's not like they are anything expensive. But it makes
me a little mad having to make a trip to the parts store and spend 3 buck on
something I shouldn't have to. I used the 3/8 wrench to tighten them down
real good this time. Sorry for the venting.
Mike
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 09:15:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jay Snyder
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: 1995 F250 4X4 EFI460

>I've just purchased a 1995 F250 S/C XLT. I've been running it for 3 weeks
>now. I am truly impressed with the power and torque of the stock 460, in
>front of the ZF 5 speed and 3.55 diff. I seem to be getting 13 miles to
>the US gallon (I'm in Canada... so, I've converted for this message). I
>don't really think that is too bad, if gas was cheaper.
>....
>Can anyone tell me of modifications, such as, chips, exhaust, fuel
>heaters, cam shafts, etc, that should show an improvement in my gas
>consumption?
IF you are getting 13mpg from your F250 with a 460, you are doing great.
I have an '87 F150 with a fuel injected 4.9L six, C6 auto, 2.73:1 rear,
and I'm getting about 15mpg on the highway, and around 11mpg around town.
The C6 doesn't ahve overdrive, so with your 3.55 diff and OD 5 speed, we
are about equally geared on the highway (of course I have torque converter
losses).

J.
'87 F150


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Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 09:53:16 -0400
From: Chris Hedemark
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - stealing

Mike Johnson wrote:
>
> Just thought I would pass along that I got all 4 of my chrome valve stem
> caps stolen off my wheels the other day. It baffles me why someone would
> steal such a thing. It's not like they are anything expensive. But it makes
> me a little mad having to make a trip to the parts store and spend 3 buck on
> something I shouldn't have to. I used the 3/8 wrench to tighten them down
> real good this time. Sorry for the venting.

Kids steal that kind of stuff for bicycles. I've caught them in the
act.

- --

Chris Hedemark
Work: IBM eNetwork Dispatcher
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.software.ibm.com/enetwork/dispatcher
Personal: Yonder Way http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com
"Earl Svein! thou now wilt know
That our lads can make blood flow --
That the Hedemarkers hale
Can do more than tap good ale." - Saga of Olaf Haraldson: Part II
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Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 09:55:48 -0400
From: Chris Hedemark
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.

Dave Harmier wrote:

> And since polyurethane has been recommended...
> Where should the bushings come from?

I guess I missed that message... Poly bushings are great on sports cars,
but in a pickup where you already have a rough ride, do you really want
to make it rougher? Trying to make a pickup truck corner is kind of a
joke. If you want a car that corners, shoulda bought the contour. ;-)
But seriously, rubber bushings while not as tight around the corners
will keep the ride much softer.

- --

Chris Hedemark
Work: IBM eNetwork Dispatcher
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.software.ibm.com/enetwork/dispatcher
Personal: Yonder Way http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com
"Earl Svein! thou now wilt know
That our lads can make blood flow --
That the Hedemarkers hale
Can do more than tap good ale." - Saga of Olaf Haraldson: Part II
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 09:25:45 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Performance Question

Newbie Ken asked:
>>I'd like to step up the performance and fuel economy ( if possible ) on
my
>>'94 F350, 4X2, SRW, CC, 460, 5 spd with a 4.10 LSA. >

All together now... "K&N air filter!"
Also, if you pull off the plastic duct between your airbox and throttle
body you may find a place where the airway narrows, then widens. This is
a silencer, and a restriction. Saw it off, and reconnect your duct.
Anything that enhances airflow is a Good Thing. I even gained some
response from my 300 by adjusting the throttle blades: make sure they're
wide open when the accelerator is floored. I think the next step for
both of us is an aftermarket exhaust system (again, more airflow). Good
luck, and enjoy your nice F350.

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150 300ci
'73 F100 360 (?) FE
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 11:22:47 -0400
From: Dave
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.

Dave
>
>Anyone with a shock recommendation???
>
I have NOT had good luck with Monroe brand shocks and I do not beat on my
truck.

Dave R


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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 11:27:13 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Weights

Steve writes: >>Does anyone know the weight of the 300 I6? I'm guessing it is
not too much
lighter than the 351W that I'm putting in.

I really don't know the weights of either, but I'd venture to say the I6 300 is
heavier than the 351W.

Azie
ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 11:31:58 -0400
From: Dave
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Duel on 4.9 ?

>I have an 86 F150 with the 300 I6 and have true duel with 2 1/4" pipes and
>dynomax mufflers. It sounds and runs great.
>Mike
>
Mike :

What exhaust manifold did you use ? Dose it have the 02 sensor still hooked
up ? I have thougt about using a exhaust manifold from a FI 4.9 since it
looks like a header and has the hole for an O2. The manifold on my 86 ,
4.9L is the old cast iron style.

Dave


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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 08:34:11 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Shock recommendation

Steve, I just took off 6 Rancho 5000's(
to 4 Edelbrock IAS shocks. The Edelbrock's are just like they advertise,
smooth riding then firm up when the going gets rough. It was quite a
contrast from the Rancho's (firm all the time). I'm still getting used to
the difference but my butt,my kidneys, and my wife sure do enjoy the
smoother ride. They are pretty pricey however so I went for the 4 standard
shocks rather than the 6 shock handling setup I had on my rig. Works just
fine.
Walt
P.S. If anyone is interested in the six Rancho 5000's for an 85 F150 4x4
e-mail me privately.

Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 23:06:15 -0400
From: "Steve"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and
calipers.

I've heard lots of good things about the new Edelbrock shocks!! Haven't
tried them yet, but read from some other post that they really handle nice
on his truck.

Steve

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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 08:49:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: bill jiminez
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.

Dave, I have an 84 ford bronco, with a 4 inch skyjacker series II
lift.. I use Rancho RS9000 with a compressor setup, I have had nothing
but good experiences with them. The ride control you can achieve is
great on and off road. Even without the compressor setup, they handle
good. Some people complain about them, but I stand by them 100%..

- --- Dave wrote:
> Dave
> >
> >Anyone with a shock recommendation???
> >
> I have NOT had good luck with Monroe brand shocks
> and I do not beat on my
> truck.
>
> Dave R
>
>
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>

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 09:02:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: bill jiminez
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Weights

I just put in a 300 I6 and unfortunateley I can't give you an exact
weight on it, I can tell you that we had problems lifting the new long
block assembly out of the truck. We ended up using a back hoe to hoist
it out, and used a cherry picker rated at 4000 lbs to put it in. Its
not too heavy, but its heavy enough where you need the right equiptment
to lift it around with..

- -Hope this helped
- -bill jiminez
- --- am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:
> Steve writes: >>Does anyone know the weight of the
> 300 I6? I'm guessing it is
> not too much
> lighter than the 351W that I'm putting in.
>
> I really don't know the weights of either, but I'd
> venture to say the I6 300 is
> heavier than the 351W.
>
> Azie
> ardmore, Al.
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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>

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 12:06:04 -0400
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.

Chris Hedemark wrote:
>
> Dave Harmier wrote:
>
> > And since polyurethane has been recommended...
> > Where should the bushings come from?
>
> I guess I missed that message... Poly bushings are great on sports cars,
> but in a pickup where you already have a rough ride, do you really want
> to make it rougher? Trying to make a pickup truck corner is kind of a
> joke. If you want a car that corners, shoulda bought the contour. ;-)
> But seriously, rubber bushings while not as tight around the corners
> will keep the ride much softer.

First off I have changed my bushings to polyurethane and have not notice
any increase in ride harshness, second I to however feel it is a little
better throught the corners, and third bring any car you got and I run
you throught the corners?
Chris
94 Lightning #381
NLOC #238
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 09:00:55 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Alignment question / Camber adjustment

Most of the time if you think something doesn't look right...you are right.
It is NOT normal for tires to be anything other than like this [ I---I ]
period. It affects the handling(read that safety) of your vehicle and wear's
the hell out of your expensive tires. My truck had just the opposite
problem of yours, the tires looked like [ \---/ ] from the front. It also
tracked straight but felt a little squirrelly, I took it back to the dealer
and they installed a camber kit and now they look like they should [ I---I
], and that hasn't changed in 15 years of driving. Go find a different
mechanic. Walt

Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - My 1997 F250HD alignment
[snip]
I'd assume it is just Ford front end. My truck has always looked
like
that(when viewed from the front of the truck). I asked a mechanic about it
and he said it was basically normal with all fords, hence the name..
>[snip]
>And when you say there is no alignment problem, how do you know?
>>I have a 1997 F250 and it has 2 problems that are buggin me. 1. The front
>>tires look like this / \ in stead of looking like this | | But there is
no
>>alignment problem. The truck pulls straight. What do you think it is. 2.
[snip]
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Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 12:07:46 -0400
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.

Ok, If all the rivets still look tight,
I'm doing it the "tug-the-I-beam" way!

Sounds like a good idea!

I'll have the calipers and shocks off
because they need replacement anyway!

Anyone with a shock recommendation???

The new edelbrocks seem to be the way to go from what I am hearing...I
am going to try them whne its time to change mine. Bilstein makes nice
shocks to though!

I guess I'll use Autozone "Lifetime" Rebuilt calipers...
though it's a sucky enough job, that I sincerely hope
I'll only do it once!!!

You can't really go wrong with a Lifetime Warranty I guess...at least if
you have to replace them again you only out your time to install them,
instead of your time and money!

And since polyurethane has been recommended...
Where should the bushings come from?

I don't think you can buy directly form energy suspensions but summir
racing carries thier products are they are very reasonable too!

Good Luck
Chris
94 Lightning #381
NLOC #238
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 10:17:09 -0700
From: "Orr, Brian"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Explorer Limited

I have a 95 Explorer limited and I am have problems starting the thing in
the morning. The battery is not weak it just won't turnover as soon as I
think it should. Does anyone have the same problem or is this just the
nature of the beast.

Brian Orr

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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 10:37:42 -0700
From: "Daniel Witt"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 86F250-runs rough, electronic module ?

Howdy,
Recent aquisition (week) - 86 F250 (mint), 351-4 barrell, auto, was in
heated storage last 5 yrs. Starts well in morning ( although apparent choke
needs adjust, no fast idle, wants throttle pumping), but if I shut it off,
say to run into a store and back out, it is really a bitch to start and
seems unrelated to throttle activity. Truck runs great at speed, but does
have 'off-idle' flat spot and got up this morning to a rainy day the truck
was quite 'lumpy' as compared to it's relative smoothness since I brought it
home. Ambient temp here is about 58 degrees fareheit.
Does any of this behaviour seem related to onboard sensor/modules
misconfiguring / adjusting ignition performance. I know in years past it was
common for the main (fender mounted) ignition module to die with little
notice, but this seems related to other issues. Is this sytem just exibiting
normal indiosynchocies for this model, sensitive to humidity, heat?
Thanks in advance
- --
Daniel Witt
#23-20890 57 Avenue, Langley, BC Canada V3A-1W3
Ph.Pers 604-530-8948 H.O. 604-530-8922 Fx 604-530-4752
Ph.Bus 604-533-7855 Web http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.taekwondo.bc.ca


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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 14:10:05 -0500
From: "Kevin Reed"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 86F250-runs rough, electronic module ?

Sounds like your spark plug wires (high tension leads, etc.) When you first
start to move your vehicle there is a tremendous load on the wires, and if
their old they can leak causing misfiring. They will also misfire when it's
damp out! I have also had this problem with bad spark plugs.

I tried testing every thing in mine before I figured out it was the wires &
plugs. It just seemed too simple!

A good test to see if they are leaking is to park your truck in your garage
at night, turn off all the lights, and rev your engine. You can usually see
the blue glow coming from your wires. What ever you do, don't run the
engine for more than 30 sec. in a sealed garage. You might have a little
trouble trying to stay alive if you do!

Any ways, I would change the cap&rotor, wires&plugs if I were you!



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Daniel Witt
> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 1999 12:38 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - 86F250-runs rough, electronic module ?
>
>
> Howdy,
> Recent acquisition (week) - 86 F250 (mint), 351-4 barrel,
> auto, was in
> heated storage last 5 yrs. Starts well in morning ( although
> apparent choke
> needs adjust, no fast idle, wants throttle pumping), but if I shut it off,
> say to run into a store and back out, it is really a bitch to start and
> seems unrelated to throttle activity. Truck runs great at speed, but does
> have 'off-idle' flat spot and got up this morning to a rainy day the truck
> was quite 'lumpy' as compared to it's relative smoothness since I
> brought it
> home. Ambient temp here is about 58 degrees fareheit.
> Does any of this behavior seem related to onboard sensor/modules
> misconfiguring / adjusting ignition performance. I know in years
> past it was
> common for the main (fender mounted) ignition module to die with little
> notice, but this seems related to other issues. Is this system
> just exhibiting
> normal indiosynchocies for this model, sensitive to humidity, heat?
> Thanks in advance
> --
> Daniel Witt
> #23-20890 57 Avenue, Langley, BC Canada V3A-1W3
> Ph.Pers 604-530-8948 H.O. 604-530-8922 Fx 604-530-4752
> Ph.Bus 604-533-7855 Web http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.taekwondo.bc.ca
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 11:36:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: bill jiminez
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Explorer Limited

Is this an automatic or a stick, if it is a stick does it have a
hydraulic clutch? I ran into a problem very similar to this, I would
turn over my engine and it would act real slugish turning over, but
once it caught it would idle and run fine. Well about a week later I
could not get it into gear once it was started, I finally had to match
RPM's and shift without the clutch all the way home.. I found that I
had no fluid left in the clutch reservoir, I had a slight crack in the
hose and it was leaking the fluid.. Hope this helped..

Bill Jiminez

- --- "Orr, Brian" wrote:
> I have a 95 Explorer limited and I am have problems
> starting the thing in
> the morning. The battery is not weak it just won't
> turnover as soon as I
> think it should. Does anyone have the same problem
> or is this just the
> nature of the beast.
>
> Brian Orr
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 16:17:05 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - a question about peeling paint

Ok all you guys who are on this list who talked about getting their local
Ford dealers to repaint areas or the truck in its entirety because the paint
faded or peeled or spiderwebbed.. did you all buy the trucks new? Mine was
purchased used ( ok very used) and the p[aint is doing the same thing. I was
told by the service manager that being as i bought the truck used i wouldnt
be able to get Ford to paint the truck, nor would they paint any vehicle (
even in part) that was over five years old.. i get the feeling they just
dont want to do this but i figure if i go back ( or to another dealer) with
the stories of you all i might push the issue enough to get mine done
Thanks
Bob
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 16:42:15 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Canister Purge Valve

Hey Guys,
Can anyone tell me where the purge valve is for the evaporative canister on
an 89 E-250 4.9 six.. I have an open line on my frame , and I cant find it
for the life of me.
There is one line thats goes from the fuel vapor evaporative canister to the
duel tanks. The other line goes from the canister to the purge valve. The
line is mounted to the chassis frame and the rubber hose is disconnected and
nowhere to be found. any ideas are appreciated.

Joe
www.flashwax.com

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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 16:41:24 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bushings, Shocks etc.

OK,
1 vote for Gabriel shocks, 1 vote for Edelbrock shocks....

Any good or bad on Autozone calipers???

Gotta find a Napa, used to be plentiful......

And lastly, if bushings cure the wandering...
I kick myself in the ASS for not jumping on the 84 F-250
6.9 diesel I drove!!!!!

Dave H.
dharmier NOSPAM.gte.net
Houston, TX
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 19:46:38 EDT
From: Bakend aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - a question about peeling paint

In a message dated 4/8/99 2:24:40 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
ROlson1039 aol.com writes:

> Ok all you guys who are on this list who talked about getting their local
> Ford dealers to repaint areas or the truck in its entirety because the
> paint
> faded or peeled or spiderwebbed.
My 95 Explorer (bought used) is starting to spider wed and peel. I am very
interested in what others have been able to get done as well.
Dennis Baken
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 21:17:12 EDT
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Jason's 97' F-250

Jason,

I understand you problem of the tires leaning like this / \ on your truck in
stead of like this I I. In my opinion it makes the truck look like !T. I
think it is because of that junk independent front suspension axle Ford puts
on the trucks (except the 1 tons). I have a 1991 F-250 with heavy dudy front
suspension had the tires leaned the same way. They leaned so bad that it
wore the inside of the tires off faster than the rest of the tire. I took it
to get fixed at it needed new ball joints (don't all fords after some time).
The guy told me that fixed it that the tires will lean ALOT less but still
will not be perfectly straight up and down but that i will not have to worry
about the tires wearing incorrectly. In your case your truck shouldn't not
need ball joints, unless you really drive the sucker hard and it every
pothole. I've seen other trucks with the same problem, and finally Ford
came out with a soulution. Installing a set of shims "basically just
washers" that will fix the problem and make em look like this I I. The only
draw back is that it depends which shims you need. Some are only about $7.50
a piece and some are $25.00 a piece! (Of course if i wanted my wheels to
lean straight i would have needed the $25.00 ones). Good luck and let me
know if this helps you out.

Paul P.S. I'm gettin a F350 next time with a mono-beam frontaxle.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 21:34:48 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.

In a message dated 4/8/99 12:03:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
garrpam netgsi.com writes:


you through the corners?
Chris
94 Lightning #381
NLOC #238 >>
Chris,
LMAO. I hear that most stock Lightnings run better through the twisties than
most performance cars, and you have modified yours? Thats like bringing a
knife to a gunfight!
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 22:41:35 EDT
From: Dc9315 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Alignment question / Camber adjustment

the alignment for the majority of any vehicle with radial tires is a close to
zero on camber and 1/16 in. toe in. this is a baseline. for ford pick ups,
you need to have a camber of positive 1/8 degree to 1/4 degree for the left
side and zero camber for right side, and toe setting of 1/16 toe.
i have done alignments on heavy duty trucks and fords, during one year i
aligned over 500 ford pick-ups, and of that number, probably 95% of those
vehicles i had to bend the beams,,, cold bend, no heat... the above specs.
work best. if it is 4wd, then get everything as close to zero as possible,
going into negative camber will work, but try not to go past 1/4 degree...

do not pay any attention to what the mfg.s specs say, if you stick to the
specs. then there will be tire wear....
just some comments from my past experiences,,,,,,,
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Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 22:11:53 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bushings, Shocks etc.

Sorry to hear that, Dave, because bushings DO cure the wandering. And with
the weight of that engine up there pounding the bushings, it's a good bet
they were shot.

At 16:41 08/04/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>And lastly, if bushings cure the wandering...
>I kick myself in the ASS for not jumping on the 84 F-250
>6.9 diesel I drove!!!!!
>
>Dave H.

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 22:00:12 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Last question about Radius Arm bushings and calipers.

Dave-
Have you checked the axel pivot bushings for tightness? That are rather
cheap and not too hard to replace, so I suggest doing them at the same
time. (Is your truck 4WD, I can't remember.) If 2WD, you just drop each
half axel and swap out bushings. Pivot bushing needs a press, like a ball
joint press. Someone posted just a few days ago they borrowed one from Auto
Zone to do theirs.

When I did my radius arm bushings on my 1980 a couple of years ago I also
did the pivot bushings. They were shot! It really made a wonderful
difference in the handling. I pulled it all apart one day, totally
reassembled the next day. Worked on it about 4 hours each day. Not that bad.

At 20:59 07/04/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Ok, If all the rivets still look tight,
>I'm doing it the "tug-the-I-beam" way!



>We'll most likely be keeping this truck for Dad
>(and ditch his UGH Ranger!!!!)
>So I need to do it right!
>

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 22:22:17 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Oil Pump Pressure

You are hearing bearings knock. The engine will not last long with that.

Best to have a true mechanical pressure guage attached when engine is hot
and read real psi at idle and at 3000 rpm. If not up to spec, you have
three options (in order of increasing cost): 1) switch to heavier weight
oil, 2) put new high-volume oil pump in, 3) rebuild engine to get rid of
all the worn bearings (where the oil is leaking out and dropping pressure
on you so fast).

At 06:03 03/04/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>
>> How do you check oil pressure?
>> My guage reads real low and my 81 F150 is starting to sound like a
>> diesel truck.
>> But only when I'm on the road applying the gas pedal.
>> I have plenty of oil in it. Any ideas?
>>
>
>I changed my oil pressure switch and my pressure gage jumped back up to
>above half where is use to be, of course this may not be your problem, but
>its a cheap try!
>
>Chuck
>'92 F150 Flare Side
>302 EEC/IV, 103k miles
>
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>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 22:24:59 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dual Tank Question

Larry-
I was kind of being a smart ass the night I replied to you. Sorry.

Have you had what you describe happen to you already? Or is this just a
hypothetical question?

Considering the dire consequences, I would replace the valve on a
preventivive maintenance basis if it happened even once. My $0.02!

At 14:53 01/04/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Jim,
>
>I understand that if the tank didn't switch i would run out of fuel. The
>problem is that, at least on my truck, when i switch tanks the fuel gauge
>reads full and does not indicate any noticible movement for about 50 miles.
> Now if I switch from one to the other and the original tank has two
>gallons of fuel left, that is only good for about 30 miles. The end result
>is that if the tank fails to switch I am out of fuel in 30 miles and I had
>no indication because I wasn't expecting to see any movement on the fuel
>gauge for another 20 miles. The really bad part of this is that since it
>is a diesel I am probably looking at a tow and a lost day of travel while I
>find someone that can prime the system. If it was gas I would just carry a
>can of gas and never be concerned.
>
>The old brass hand valve that was mounted on the floor of my Dad's '69 F250
>was reliable and there was no question as to which tank you were using.
>But we couldn't leave well enough alone, would we?
>
>
>Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 09:39:35 -0600
>From: Jim Cannon
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dual Tank Question
>
>At 10:23 31/03/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>Also no one has taken a shot at my other question. When I do switch, how
>>do I know that the valve moved and I am running on a different tank.
>>According to the wiring diagram of the truck the switch is a double pole
>>switch so it seems to me that it would be possible to flip the switch and
>>the gauge would read the new tank level but there is nothing to say that
>>the valve actually moved and I am running on the new tank. Any thoughts?
>
>What you propose COULD happen. When it does, the fuel guage will not go
>down as you drive and the engine will die when you empty the other fuel
>tank. Seems simple enough to me .
>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 23:51:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ken Woods
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Oil Pump Pressure

On Thu, 8 Apr 1999, Jim Cannon wrote:
> You are hearing bearings knock. The engine will not last long with that.
> Best to have a true mechanical pressure guage attached when engine is hot
> and read real psi at idle and at 3000 rpm. If not up to spec, you have

So, what's the spec???

- --
Ken Woods
kwoods kens.com

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 21:51:57 -0700
From: "Daniel Witt"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - a question about peeling paint

Howdy,
Well I bought mine used.....although pretty much mint with only 170k,
it's still an 86.
Cheers ~ Daniel

- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 1999 1:17 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - a question about peeling paint


> Ok all you guys who are on this list who talked about getting their local
> Ford dealers to repaint areas or the truck in its entirety because the
paint
> faded or peeled or spiderwebbed.. did you all buy the trucks new? Mine
was
> purchased used ( ok very used) and the p[aint is doing the same thing. I
was
> told by the service manager that being as i bought the truck used i
wouldnt
> be able to get Ford to paint the truck, nor would they paint any vehicle

> even in part) that was over five years old.. i get the feeling they just
> dont want to do this but i figure if i go back ( or to another dealer)
with
> the stories of you all i might push the issue enough to get mine done
> Thanks
> Bob
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 22:08:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: shy anne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - power loss...

I wrote in last week about my truck loosing power. We tried the
alternater and that wasn't it. It helped for a little while, then it
lost power again. We tried a new voltage regulator and so far the
truck is running great. Thanks for everyones help. also, me
and my mom tinted the windows and it looks great. = )
Shy

===
- -"God forbid I shall go to any heaven where there are no horses."



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 22:11:12 -0700
From: "Daniel Witt"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96 - 86F250-runs rough, full tank syndrome?

Howdy y'all,
Well it's definetly fuel, pissed a half tank through today. Pulled air
cleaner, looks like needle/seat is stuck (holley 4barrel. Leaking around
acc. pump. Weird though, truck was running superb, got it with 3/4 tank of
gas(Monday), refilled last night before parking, problem started this
morning on startup. Was acting much like vacuum line was open.
Supplier wants $100 Canadian for carb kit. Claims rebuilds with these
carbs often unsuccessful because of crummy throttle/base plates. Next option
was factory rebuilt at $400 !
SAY WHAT ! This program is out of control!
Called buddy who's in industry, claims was venting issues with this
series that could cause similiar probs. I'm gonna pull needle assembly out
in morning & have a look. Any feed back on this issue would be appreciatted.
AND yes the truck has had a bunch of the emissions stuff tampered with by
the previous owner. (This vehicle was in storage for 5 years, prior to my
purchase). C'mon back good buddies, feed me.
Regards ~ Daniel
- --
Daniel Witt
#23-20890 57 Avenue, Langley, BC Canada V3A-1W3
Ph.Pers 604-530-8948 H.O. 604-530-8922 Fx 604-530-4752
Ph.Bus 604-533-7855 Web http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.taekwondo.bc.ca



>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> > [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Daniel Witt
> > Sent: Thursday, April 08, 1999 12:38 PM
> > To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: FTE 80-96 - 86F250-runs rough, electronic module ?
> >
> >
> > Howdy,
> > Recent acquisition (week) - 86 F250 (mint), 351-4 barrel,
> > auto, was in
> > heated storage last 5 yrs. Starts well in morning ( although
> > apparent choke
> > needs adjust, no fast idle, wants throttle pumping), but if I shut it
off,
> > say to run into a store and back out, it is really a bitch to start and
> > seems unrelated to throttle activity. Truck runs great at speed, but
does
> > have 'off-idle' flat spot and got up this morning to a rainy day the
truck
> > was quite 'lumpy' as compared to it's relative smoothness since I
> > brought it
> > home. Ambient temp here is about 58 degrees fareheit.
> > Does any of this behavior seem related to onboard sensor/modules
> > misconfiguring / adjusting ignition performance. I know in years
> > past it was
> > common for the main (fender mounted) ignition module to die with little
> > notice, but this seems related to other issues. Is this system
> > just exhibiting
> > normal indiosynchocies for this model, sensitive to humidity, heat?
> > Thanks in advance
> > --
> > Daniel Witt
> > #23-20890 57 Avenue, Langley, BC Canada V3A-1W3
> > Ph.Pers 604-530-8948 H.O. 604-530-8922 Fx 604-530-4752
> > Ph.Bus 604-533-7855 Web http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.taekwondo.bc.ca
> >
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 01:39:24 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Canister Purge Valve

Never Mind, I figured it out.
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Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 01:42:41 EDT
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Air Shocks

Hey Guys,
I have an 89 E-250 . I carry a heavy load and want to install air shocks in
the rear. The truck sits a little low when fully loaded which is all the
time. Gabriel or monroe do not list air shocks for this vehicle. Can anyone
tell me where I might find a pair?
Thanks.

Joe
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