80-96-list-digest Wednesday, April 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number 097



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 80-96 - Those Radius Arm Bushings...How Hard to change???
RE: FTE 80-96 - RE: High Altitude Carb Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Those Radius Arm Bushings...How Hard to change???
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
FTE 80-96 - Changing radius arm bushings
RE: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: High Altitude Carb Problem
RE: FTE 80-96 - Brake Line Replacement
FTE 80-96 - Re: Rough Idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing radius arm bushings
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Rough Idle
RE: FTE 80-96 - Those Radius Arm Bushings...How Hard to change???
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Rough Idle
FTE 80-96 - Electric fuel pumps
FTE 80-96 - boiling fuel
Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing radius arm bushings
FTE 80-96 - Peelin' paint on 86er
Re: FTE 80-96 - Peelin' paint on 86er
Re: FTE 80-96 - Peelin' paint on 86er
FTE 80-96 - 82 ford F150 302 need help
Re: FTE 80-96 - 82 ford F150 302 need help
FTE 80-96 - RE: Need firing order 1982 Ford F150 5.0
Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing radius arm bushings
RE: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 06:57:49 -0500
From: "Chuck"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Those Radius Arm Bushings...How Hard to change???

I have to do this myself too, but what is a porta-power?

o break the brake hose you should have JUST ENOUGH travel
> to remove
> the arm downward remove the rubber& washer reinstall new stuff.
> guide the arm
> and release the porta-power . should take about 1/2 hour per side
> GOOD LUCK
> PHIL
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 09:05:52 -0600
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - RE: High Altitude Carb Problem

When I drive the carb equipped '76 Bronco here in the Denver area and have
to drive it into the mountains, going from about 5,000 feet to 11,000+ feet,
I have to stop somewhere near the top and advance the timing. Sometimes I
have to stop about every few thousand feet if I am pulling something. I also
carry a bottle of octane booster for when I drive it at high altitudes.
Thanks to EFI on my '95 F-150 5.8L I don't have to deal with it.

One time I was in Vail and the timing was so retarded I was barely able to
keep it running at a stop light. Pulling away from a stop light felt like I
was running on 4 cylinders.

Seems to me someone, somewhere, must make a barometer controlled vacuum
advance for the carb equipped vehicles. I have seen a guy install a second
choke type knob on the dash to pull a plate attached to the distributor
shaft that they tweaked to adjust the timing when they traveled over the
passes.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From:Posluszny, Walt (POSL) [SMTP:POSL chevron.com]
Sent:Monday, April 05, 1999 11:04 AM
To:'80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject:FTE 80-96 - RE: High Altitude Carb Problem


Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1999 08:36:35 -0600
From: "Stephen W. Hansen"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fw: l985 Ford F-250 (High Altitude
Flooding)


Loveland
Pass -- I-70 Tunnel -- Vail Pass -- Colorado>>

==============================================

Make sure your main and secondary jets are set up for High Altitude.
That's
about 3 jet sizes reduction (if my memory serves me) if your carb
was a sea
level carb and you moved to Denver. If you live or spend most of
your time
higher, reduce the jets even further, it's a simple calculation and
Holley
can make recommendations. AND, give that thing as much ignition
timing as
it will take without pinging. You can get away with allot more than
stock
timing at that altitude and it helps ALLOT!. My 78, 351M has 18
degrees
BTDC initial in Denver and it doesn't ping at all on regular
unleaded. I've
got a 4160 Holley on it and it doesn't smoke a lick on any mountain
pass.
If you have to, manually downshift to keep the rpm's up. A good
free flow
air filter will help as well. Walt
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 11:24:26 EDT
From: PSales264 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Those Radius Arm Bushings...How Hard to change???

A porta- power is a hydraulic cylinder with a hose to the pump for remote
work.
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 12:05:49 -0400
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle

Chris Philipp wrote:
>
> When I am idling a light, or stopping suddenly, my 88 F-250 302
> appears to almost stagger, rarely stalls however. Anyone have any
> thoughts on what could be causing this? I thought I heard fuel pump,
> and EGR earlier about this question. I am running premium gas, it
> appears to have a shiny new fuel filter, and the main fuel(frame
> mounted)pump looks to be weathered, appears to happen on both tanks, how
> can I test the EGR.. vacuum test or something? What are the basics on
> doing either job. I have had my mechanic do one of my in tank pumps
> before, but he wants around $200+ to do it. I would easily make the
> effort to save some cash. TIA Chris

I would bet it is the throttle body bypass valve or the throttle
positioning sensor...both probably have never been changed
Chris
94 Lightning #381
NLOC #238
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 09:49:41 PDT
From: "Chris Mahaffey"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Changing radius arm bushings

I didn't feel like getting under my truck with a hammer and chisel to
take the rivets off so I decided to do it by moving the arms forward.
Since I was replacing the axle pivot bushings too, having that end of
the I-beams disconnected made it easier to move the arms forward. I
took the calipers and shocks off before I started since I was replacing
them anyway. I think you'd have to be very careful of the brake lines
if you don't take them off. I was talking to a friend who is a mechanic
at the local Ford dealer and he said they torch the rivets off when
changing the bushings. He also suggested I make sure the bolts that
hold the brackets to the crossmember where the I beams pivot were tight.
I don't know why but one side is riveted and the other is bolted. He
said he had seen several of those work loose. I didn't have any problem
with mine.

I used rebuilt calipers from Auto-Zone. I'm not having any problems
with them, but it hasn't been that long since I put them on either.
Time will tell.

I saw mention a couple days ago about gauges that mount on the A pillar.
That sounds like a slick way of mounting them. Is it a special bracket?
Where can I buy it?

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 12:52:42 -0500
From: "Kevin Reed"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle

You don't have to change the TPS or the throttle bypass valve. You can test
both using a ohm meter and a shop manual. The valve itself can be separated
from the throttle body and cleaned using carb cleaner.

To be more effective, remove the entire throttle body, disassemble it, clean
it completely with carb cleaner, and pipe cleaners for the vacuum holes.
When you put it back together make sure you lube the friction points, adjust
the manual idle screw, and set the TPS (should read 0.5V to 1.0V with the
throttle closed).

It took me about an hour and a half, only cost about $5 for the cleaner and
some white lithium grease, and it made the Truck run like a dream! It's not
hard, there's actually very few parts to it!



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Garr&Pam
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 11:06 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
>
>
> Chris Philipp wrote:
> >
> > When I am idling a light, or stopping suddenly, my 88 F-250 302
> > appears to almost stagger, rarely stalls however. Anyone have any
> > thoughts on what could be causing this? I thought I heard fuel pump,
> > and EGR earlier about this question. I am running premium gas, it
> > appears to have a shiny new fuel filter, and the main fuel(frame
> > mounted)pump looks to be weathered, appears to happen on both tanks, how
> > can I test the EGR.. vacuum test or something? What are the basics on
> > doing either job. I have had my mechanic do one of my in tank pumps
> > before, but he wants around $200+ to do it. I would easily make the
> > effort to save some cash. TIA Chris
>
> I would bet it is the throttle body bypass valve or the throttle
> positioning sensor...both probably have never been changed
> Chris
> 94 Lightning #381
> NLOC #238
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>

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 12:51:12 EDT
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: High Altitude Carb Problem

In a message dated 4/6/99 9:30:01 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
sgiddens ball.com writes:


advance for the carb equipped vehicles >>

The DuraSpark ignition Ford installs on vehicles with high-altitude
calibration uses a YELLOW grommet ignition module rather than the standard
BLUE...it has an extra 2-wire pigtail that attaches to a baro-sensor which
controls timing relative to altitude. Also, MSD makes a ping control that
replaces the ignition module...with a graduated knob on the dash you can
change the ignition timing ''on the fly''
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 11:57:38 -0500
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Brake Line Replacement

>>>>Does anyone have tips they want to share about an easy (or otherwise)
way to
get off an old brake line? I've got an 83 F150 that I'm trying to replace
the rear line on. 16 years of "Stuff" has made the line less than
cooperative. >>>>>

The main thing here is not to round off the flange nuts using box end
wrenches. I've seen some special wrenches that look like box ends with a
slot in the end to slide the brake line through. They grip the flange nuts
better . You could also make a wrench by grinding a slot in a strong 6
point box end wrench.
David Anderson


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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 10:41:31 PDT
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Rough Idle

I have the same problem here, EGR does not seem to be the problem (for
me anyway). My brake booster leaks, but I have adjusted the mixture to
compensate, not sure what else it can be, but my 351W will idle really
*low* at stoplights or pushing in the clutch to downshift when slowing
down. it hasn't died since I richened the mixture, but it sounds like
you can hear each cylender firing... pop...pop...pop...pop.........

Still havn't figured it out,

Casey Vandor
Home Page http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4X4
75 W-200 4X2









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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 14:09:23 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing radius arm bushings

In a message dated 4/6/99 1:17:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mahaffey hotmail.com writes:


That sounds like a slick way of mounting them. Is it a special bracket?
Where can I buy it?
>>
Summit Racing Equipment. www.summit racing .com. I bought the dual gauge pod
for the Apillar and total with shipping was $33.90 or in that ballpark. And
trust me, they are easy to mount and they do get looks for their "slickness".
Just make sure of the gauge size you have as they sell these in 2 different
size openings. Also don't let them push you into buying the whole Apillar
piece which runs around $200 and has the gauges formed actually into the
pillar trim piece.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"hazardous Material" (To my wallet) =)
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 14:12:15 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Rough Idle

In a message dated 4/6/99 2:01:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
cvandor hotmail.com writes:


you can hear each cylinder firing... pop...pop...pop...pop.........
>>
Casey,
Have you hooked up a vacuum gauge to the manifold to see if you have a vacuum
leak there? Just asking because mine was doing that and my front 2 manifold
bolts had wiggled loose...just a suggestion.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 13:07:39 -0500
From: "Chuck"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Those Radius Arm Bushings...How Hard to change???

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of PSales264 aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 10:24 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Those Radius Arm Bushings...How Hard to
> change???
>
>
> A porta- power is a hydraulic cylinder with a hose to the pump for remote
> work.

ok, got it!

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 12:29:52 -0600
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Rough Idle

Casey,

Your '83 has a carb, Maybe the '84s' had EFI half way through the year (mine
didn't but it was an early '84) But I am pretty sure his '88 has EFI not a
carb.

Did you mean to say you adjusted your low idle, not the fuel to air mixture?
That would make more sense. Running it rich will foul your plugs and cause
carbon build up in your engine. If you have a vacuum leak I think you found
your problem.

Scott
-----Original Message-----
From:Casey Vandor [SMTP:cvandor hotmail.com]
Sent:Tuesday, April 06, 1999 11:42 AM
To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:FTE 80-96 - Re: Rough Idle

I have the same problem here, EGR does not seem to be the problem
(for
me anyway). My brake booster leaks, but I have adjusted the mixture
to
compensate, not sure what else it can be, but my 351W will idle
really
*low* at stoplights or pushing in the clutch to downshift when
slowing
down. it hasn't died since I richened the mixture, but it sounds
like
you can hear each cylender firing... pop...pop...pop...pop.........


Still havn't figured it out,

Casey Vandor
Home Page http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4X4
75 W-200 4X2









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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 14:41:09 EDT
From: craig n eggerman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Electric fuel pumps

Experienced the bad fuel pump in the rear tank this weekend in my E350.
Seems when it warms up and this time of year when they change over from
winter blend to summer blend gas a lot of these pumps will stop working.
Dealer mechanic and RV mechanic in Moab, Utah said to let them set for
15 or 20 minutes and they will run again for a while. They said the E350
is a real problem around Moab in the summer with older pumps. Question is
have any of you replaced this pump? Is it a 1 or 5 banana job? Is there a
better after market pump? Any installation tricks or parts needed? This
is a 38 gallon fuel tank.
Craig
Eggerman juno.com
Casper,Wyoming
O|||||O

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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 14:41:09 EDT
From: craig n eggerman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - boiling fuel

Several years ago the mechanic at the Texaco station in Dillon Colorado
suggested that the boiling fuel problem can be fixed by adding a small
amount of diesel to the gasoline. In theory it lowers the reed vapor
pressure of the gasoline and stops it from boiling. It will not harm a
carbureted engine. I'm not sure what it would do to a fuel injected
system. This is an alterative to lowering the floats on the holly carbs.
It works. I use to put in about a gallon of diesel with 15 gallons of
gasoline. Cured my mountain vapor lock problems.
Craig
Eggerman juno.com
Casper,Wyoming
O|||||O

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 14:49:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ken Woods
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing radius arm bushings

On Tue, 6 Apr 1999 FLR150 aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 4/6/99 1:17:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> mahaffey hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> That sounds like a slick way of mounting them. Is it a special bracket?
> Where can I buy it?
> >>
> Summit Racing Equipment. www.summit racing .com. I bought the dual gauge pod
> for the Apillar and total with shipping was $33.90 or in that ballpark. And
> trust me, they are easy to mount and they do get looks for their "slickness".
> Just make sure of the gauge size you have as they sell these in 2 different
> size openings. Also don't let them push you into buying the whole Apillar
> piece which runs around $200 and has the gauges formed actually into the
> pillar trim piece.

>From kwoods kens.com Tue Apr 6 14:49:03 1999
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 10:17:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Ken Woods
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 - Temp Guage + Air Bags + Drive Shaft Problems

On Wed, 31 Mar 1999, Chris Hedemark wrote:

> David J. Smith wrote:
> > Can anyone offer an alternative to dropping my pants and bending over to
> > the dealer? Are there aftermarket replacement guages that will work?
> > Is removal of the dash panel a big job?
>
> If you are going to replace the temp gauge, have you considered going
> aftermarket?
> You can get a slick A-pillar pod to hold two gauges (or just one, if you
> prefer). The only problem is you will have one dead gauge in your dash
> replaced by one excellent one on your A pillar.


Summit Racing Equipment
800.230.3030
GRD-87FTSP Single pod, 87-96, $17.95
GRD-87FTDP Dual pod, 87-96, $25.95

- --
Ken Woods
kwoods kens.com



- --
Ken Woods
kwoods kens.com

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 12:33:32 -0700
From: "Daniel Witt"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Peelin' paint on 86er

Howdy,
First post to this list. Recently took possesion of mint 86 F250. Body
immaculatte, not a dent, original paint, BUT major peel situation on hood
only ( looks like camoflauging almost). I've heard a rumour Ford is willing
to correct messed up factory paint even in models as old as this. Has
178,000 original km.
Any basis to this rumour? When pigs fly? Thanks in advance.
Cheers
- --
Daniel Witt
5786 203 Street, Langley, BC Canada V3A-1W3
Ph.604-530-8922/533-7855 Fx 604-530-4752
www.taekwondo.bc.ca

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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 15:57:02 -0400
From: Chris Hedemark
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Peelin' paint on 86er

Daniel Witt wrote:
>
> Howdy,
> First post to this list. Recently took possesion of mint 86 F250. Body
> immaculatte, not a dent, original paint, BUT major peel situation on hood
> only ( looks like camoflauging almost). I've heard a rumour Ford is willing
> to correct messed up factory paint even in models as old as this. Has
> 178,000 original km.
> Any basis to this rumour? When pigs fly? Thanks in advance.

Well I don't know about that old... but back in 1995 they were willing
to do some pretty expensive body/paint work on a 1989 Bronco due to bad
paint and a design flaw that causes the tailgate to rust out pretty
quickly. Might be too late now but it doesn't hurt to try.

- --

Chris Hedemark
Work: IBM eNetwork Dispatcher
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.software.ibm.com/enetwork/dispatcher
Personal: Yonder Way http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com
"Earl Svein! thou now wilt know
That our lads can make blood flow --
That the Hedemarkers hale
Can do more than tap good ale." - Saga of Olaf Haraldson: Part II
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 14:08:12 -0700
From: "Daniel Witt"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Peelin' paint on 86er

Hello Chris,
Thanks for your response. Any suggestions as to initiate the
appeal/application process?
Just put the local dealer in a headlock til' she yells 'uncle'?
Regards
- --
Daniel Witt
5786 203 Street, Langley, BC Canada V3A-1W3
Ph.604-530-8922/533-7855 Fx 604-530-4752
www.taekwondo.bc.ca

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Hedemark
To:
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Peelin' paint on 86er


> Daniel Witt wrote:
> >
> > Howdy,
> > First post to this list. Recently took possesion of mint 86 F250.
Body
> > immaculatte, not a dent, original paint, BUT major peel situation on
hood
> > only ( looks like camoflauging almost). I've heard a rumour Ford is
willing
> > to correct messed up factory paint even in models as old as this. Has
> > 178,000 original km.
> > Any basis to this rumour? When pigs fly? Thanks in advance.
>
> Well I don't know about that old... but back in 1995 they were willing
> to do some pretty expensive body/paint work on a 1989 Bronco due to bad
> paint and a design flaw that causes the tailgate to rust out pretty
> quickly. Might be too late now but it doesn't hurt to try.


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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 18:07:34 -0700
From: "Mike"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 82 ford F150 302 need help

This truck has a EEC111 system. The fire sequence on the cap is different
from the engine. Dose anyone have info on this??
Thanks Mike

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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 21:23:41 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 82 ford F150 302 need help

check the haynes manual that should give you the proper sequence
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 19:51:47 -0700
From: "Mike"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Need firing order 1982 Ford F150 5.0

Thanks guys, but I have the firing order I need the sequence on the cap. Its
a weird set up, with multiple contact points.The Haynes manual that I have
does not cover EEC 111 and Chilton is brief and incomplete. Maybe someone
has a shop manual or Ford specs. links. Any help would be most
appreciated...
Thanks Mike

(Sorry for the double post RW, Just getting the hang of this.)


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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 23:24:12 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Changing radius arm bushings

In a message dated 4/6/99 3:12:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kwoods kens.com
writes:


800.230.3030
GRD-87FTSP Single pod, 87-96, $17.95
GRD-87FTDP Dual pod, 87-96, $25.95

--
Ken Woods
kwoods kens.com >>
Hey Ken,
You forgot the $7 shipping charge + $25.95 = $32.95. Only a buck off....in
the ballpark I think.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material" ( To slow rice burners...crunch crunch)
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 23:22:46 -0500
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle

Is there a gasket for the throttle body?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Kevin Reed [SMTP:kreed ICAN.NET]
> Sent:Tuesday, April 06, 1999 12:53 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:RE: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
>
> You don't have to change the TPS or the throttle bypass valve. You can
> test
> both using a ohm meter and a shop manual. The valve itself can be
> separated
> from the throttle body and cleaned using carb cleaner.
>
> To be more effective, remove the entire throttle body, disassemble it,
> clean
> it completely with carb cleaner, and pipe cleaners for the vacuum holes.
> When you put it back together make sure you lube the friction points,
> adjust
> the manual idle screw, and set the TPS (should read 0.5V to 1.0V with the
> throttle closed).
>
> It took me about an hour and a half, only cost about $5 for the cleaner
> and
> some white lithium grease, and it made the Truck run like a dream! It's
> not
> hard, there's actually very few parts to it!
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> > [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Garr&Pam
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 11:06 AM
> > To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
> >
> >
> > Chris Philipp wrote:
> > >
> > > When I am idling a light, or stopping suddenly, my 88 F-250 302
> > > appears to almost stagger, rarely stalls however. Anyone have any
> > > thoughts on what could be causing this? I thought I heard fuel pump,
> > > and EGR earlier about this question. I am running premium gas, it
> > > appears to have a shiny new fuel filter, and the main fuel(frame
> > > mounted)pump looks to be weathered, appears to happen on both tanks,
> how
> > > can I test the EGR.. vacuum test or something? What are the basics
> on
> > > doing either job. I have had my mechanic do one of my in tank pumps
> > > before, but he wants around $200+ to do it. I would easily make the
> > > effort to save some cash. TIA Chris
> >
> > I would bet it is the throttle body bypass valve or the throttle
> > positioning sensor...both probably have never been changed
> > Chris
> > 94 Lightning #381
> > NLOC #238
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 00:02:22 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle

Yes, I got one when I bought the upper intake manifold gasket set when I
installed my mass-air kit. It had the upper intake gasket, the Idle Air
vale gasket, and a throttle body gasket. Might be worth it to replace them
all while you are at it.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Harris, Scott
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 9:24 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle


>Is there a gasket for the throttle body?
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Kevin Reed [SMTP:kreed ICAN.NET]
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 12:53 PM
>> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>> Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
>>
>> You don't have to change the TPS or the throttle bypass valve. You can
>> test
>> both using a ohm meter and a shop manual. The valve itself can be
>> separated
>> from the throttle body and cleaned using carb cleaner.
>>
>> To be more effective, remove the entire throttle body, disassemble it,
>> clean
>> it completely with carb cleaner, and pipe cleaners for the vacuum holes.
>> When you put it back together make sure you lube the friction points,
>> adjust
>> the manual idle screw, and set the TPS (should read 0.5V to 1.0V with the
>> throttle closed).
>>
>> It took me about an hour and a half, only cost about $5 for the cleaner
>> and
>> some white lithium grease, and it made the Truck run like a dream! It's
>> not
>> hard, there's actually very few parts to it!
>>
>>
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>> > [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Garr&Pam
>> > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 11:06 AM
>> > To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>> > Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough Idle
>> >
>> >
>> > Chris Philipp wrote:
>> > >
>> > > When I am idling a light, or stopping suddenly, my 88 F-250 302
>> > > appears to almost stagger, rarely stalls however. Anyone have any....


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