80-96-list-digest Friday, April 2 1999 Volume 03 : Number 092



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Brake Line Replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - Last thoughts on 84 F-250......
FTE 80-96 - RE: Alldata
FTE 80-96 - Emissions / Check Engine
FTE 80-96 - RE: F150 - Temp Guage + Air Bags + Drive Shaft Problems
FTE 80-96 - Re: Starter
Re: FTE 80-96 - Emissions / Check Engine
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Starter
FTE 80-96 - Re: Last Thoughts on '84 F-250
[none]
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Last Thoughts on '84 F-250
FTE 80-96 - Re: Dual Tank Question
FTE 80-96 - RE:Driveshaft balance
FTE 80-96 - Re: Oil Pump Pressure
RE: FTE 80-96 - RE:Driveshaft balance
FTE 80-96 - Bronco running again, still few probs
FTE 80-96 - F-150 Engine Swap
FTE 80-96 - 86 F150-302cid Exhaust

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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 08:25:36 -0500
From: "Jeff Colwander"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brake Line Replacement

Does anyone have tips they want to share about an easy (or otherwise) way to
get off an old brake line? I've got an 83 F150 that I'm trying to replace
the rear line on. 16 years of "Stuff" has made the line less than
cooperative. I've tried soaking it w/ WD40 and a tool box full of wrenches
and only succeeded in spending quality time examining the frame and rear
suspension.

This is just the beginning. I should be done just in time for my historical
plate though.

Thanks,
Jeff


>Before I spend half of Saturday crawling around in the mud, does anyone
>have any thoughts about the this? Changing out brake lines is far from
>my favorite job, but changing out the ABS switch doesn't sound like the
>same kind of (literally) pain in the neck.
>
>Mike
>
>- --
>
>- ------------
>Mike Sloane
>Allamuchy NJ
>(msloane att.net)
>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>------------------------------

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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 09:36:39 -0500
From: Chris Hedemark
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Last thoughts on 84 F-250......

ROlson1039 aol.com wrote:

> personally i think the truck is alot of money here in the northeast im
> getting 1989 trucks for less than $4000 with lower mileage..

1987 F250 5.0L

Saved from wrecking yard for free. Needed starter, battery, and tuneup.

Okay, the seller was my father, but I know he would have let it go for
about a grand to anyone else.

- --

Chris Hedemark
Work: IBM eNetwork Dispatcher
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.software.ibm.com/enetwork/dispatcher
Personal: Yonder Way http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com
"Earl Svein! thou now wilt know
That our lads can make blood flow --
That the Hedemarkers hale
Can do more than tap good ale." - Saga of Olaf Haraldson: Part II
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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 09:36:05 -0600
From: vince a smith
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Alldata

David, I have the on for my truck also and I agree 100% about the TSB's.
I was a little dioppointed with it when I first got it.
It did have the wiring for my Radio which the Haynes didn't so that was
a plus.
My 2 .

>>>>>I have the Alldata CD and by far the best thing about this is the
TSB info.
I would not depend on one of these as my only shop manual. They don't
have
the depth that even Haynes does.

>>>>>>The cd-rom is 20.00 from autozone but you DON'T get the TSB's,
from
Alldata its 24.95 and you DO get the TSB's. It may be a wash with
shipping though.
David Anderson




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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 10:58:06 -0500
From: "Kevin Reed"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Emissions / Check Engine

86-F150 5.0L EFI

The check engine or 'Emissions', as it is labeled on the dash board, light
will not come on. I recently bought the truck. I found that there was no
bulb in behind, so I tested one to make sure that it worked, and then I put
it in the socket.

When the key is to the on position, and the vehicle isn't running, the bulb
doesn't come on. Should it? Does anybody have the same year truck who
could tell me?

Could this mean a fried ECU?

Any help would be appreciated!

Kevin Reed
Burlington, Ontario, CANADA



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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 08:59:49 -0700
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: F150 - Temp Guage + Air Bags + Drive Shaft Problems

Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 - Temp Guage + Air Bags + Drive Shaft Problems

David J. Smith wrote:



> 3. My drive shaft seems to cause a vibration that is felt in your seat
> as you drive. Wheels have been rebalanced. I have replaced all shaft
> bearings. One WAS very shot and another was pitted; but the vibration
> persists between 50 and 80 km/hr.

This sounds like your driveshaft wasn't assembled correctly. The U-joints
must be in a specific orientation. When I replaced the U-joints on my son's
F-150 I marked the orientation before disassembly, as the manual recommends,
but in my haste didn't line things up when I reassembled them. I thought,
what the hey, and put the shaft back in the truck. Sure enough the
vibration we were trying to correct due to bad U-joints was still there. I
pulled the shaft again, corrected the orientation on the U-joints, and
reinstalled the shaft. No more vibration.

Larry
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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 09:21:23 -0700
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Starter

That feature is most likely not Chebby's but the drive manufacturer's. I
think the bell housing where the starter mounts is part of the drive. The
small block Chev engine in my boat with OMC drive has a bottom starter.
Hope I never have to replace it. A top starter in a boat has another
advantage. It will be above any gas fumes in the bilge when you start the
engine. Less chance of an explosion if you forgot to operate the bilge
blowers before firing the engine. BTW: the second easiest starter I've
replaced was on a Plymouth minivan with a 2.6 Mitsubishi which was top
accessible.

Larry


Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 14:33:01 PST
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Starter

The one thing I must say in chebbys defense, we have a top mount starter
on the 454 in the boat. Pull up the doghouse, one 2 gauge cable, two
bolts, installation is reverse of tear down or however haynes says that
so well.... Don't even have to get your hands dirty. Never understood
why they would use a bottom mount in a boat. Dirty, oily, wet, greasy,
hard to get to, up top just makes so much more sense.

Good Luck,

Casey Vandor
Home Page http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4X4
75 W-200 4X2

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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 08:39:04 -0800 (PST)
From: bill jiminez
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Emissions / Check Engine

I have an 84 Bronco, whose chasis and electrical system are basically
the same. I had the same problem when I rebuilt my engine. Engaged the
ignition and never got the check engine light. Found that I blew a fuse
in the fuse panel, when I replaced the fuse and engaged the ignition
this time, I got the light. It worked for me, hope this helped..

Bill Jiminez

- --- Kevin Reed wrote:
> 86-F150 5.0L EFI
>
> The check engine or 'Emissions', as it is labeled on
> the dash board, light
> will not come on. I recently bought the truck. I
> found that there was no
> bulb in behind, so I tested one to make sure that it
> worked, and then I put
> it in the socket.
>
> When the key is to the on position, and the vehicle
> isn't running, the bulb
> doesn't come on. Should it? Does anybody have the
> same year truck who
> could tell me?
>
> Could this mean a fried ECU?
>
> Any help would be appreciated!
>
> Kevin Reed
> Burlington, Ontario, CANADA
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 11:41:30 -0500
From: Chris Hedemark
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Starter

Smeins, Larry wrote:

> That feature is most likely not Chebby's but the drive manufacturer's. I
> think the bell housing where the starter mounts is part of the drive. The
> small block Chev engine in my boat with OMC drive has a bottom starter.
> Hope I never have to replace it. A top starter in a boat has another
> advantage. It will be above any gas fumes in the bilge when you start the
> engine. Less chance of an explosion if you forgot to operate the bilge
> blowers before firing the engine. BTW: the second easiest starter I've
> replaced was on a Plymouth minivan with a 2.6 Mitsubishi which was top
> accessible.

1987 Ford F250, bottom mount starter. No lift necessary as truck sits
very high, even though it is 2WD. Two wrenches, about fifteen to twenty
minuts and it's a done deal.

That's what I love about these trucks. The stuff underneath is
sometimes easier to get to than the stuff on top! Case in point-
starter is easier to change than spark plugs!

- --

Chris Hedemark
Work: IBM eNetwork Dispatcher
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.software.ibm.com/enetwork/dispatcher
Personal: Yonder Way http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com
"Earl Svein! thou now wilt know
That our lads can make blood flow --
That the Hedemarkers hale
Can do more than tap good ale." - Saga of Olaf Haraldson: Part II
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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 11:23:09 PST
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Last Thoughts on '84 F-250

I don't know, I went to Seekins Ford and had them appraise mine for
trade in, they offered 3,800 (to me) they would probably turn around and
triple that to sell it. Mine is in good condition, would need a paint
job, serious detailing inside, bunch of little dings and dents fixed.
But mine is low mileage, reg cab, 4x4, manual, which from watching the
trucks roll off the lot up here, a pretty popular setup.

>>>>>
both trucks had less than 90K on the clocks
so for a 1984 I personally wouldnt pay more than $2000 maybe $2500 if
the
truck was SUPER sepcial
>>>>>

Casey Vandor
Home Page http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4X4
75 W-200 4X2









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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 11:25:18 PST
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: [none]

As Wayne said, we need to know lots more, but the first thing I would
check (thinking you had a early 80's F150??...can't remember what you
said) check the oil level. You could be running low.

>>>>>>>>>>
From a standstill to flooring it, my truck experiences good acceleration
but
is accompianed by a clicking sounds. I haven't noticed it before and am
wondering if this is normal or is something wrong.(spark plugs or fuel
injectors??) Also at idle it is rougher than usual and even feels like
it
will stall, i don't know if these are related or really what's
happening.
Thanks for any comments.
>>>>>>>>>>

Casey Vandor
Home Page http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4X4
75 W-200 4X2









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Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 14:23:45 -0500
From: troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Last Thoughts on '84 F-250

On 1 Apr 99, at 11:23, Casey Vandor wrote:

>I don't know, I went to Seekins Ford and had them appraise mine for
>trade in, they offered 3,800 (to me) they would probably turn around and
>triple that to sell it. Mine is in good condition, would need a paint
>job, serious detailing inside, bunch of little dings and dents fixed.
>But mine is low mileage, reg cab, 4x4, manual, which from watching the
>trucks roll off the lot up here, a pretty popular setup.

So I think I got off pretty easy paying $3600 for my '84 F-150,
single cab, 2wd, AOD. It had 85,000 miles on it when I bought it,
now it's up to 91,000. I guess 6,000 miles in one year isn't all that
bad. :)

You might be a redneck if... Your dog passes gas and you claim it.
- Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mfi.net/~troyw
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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 14:53:18 -0500
From: Larry Wiandt
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dual Tank Question

Jim,

I understand that if the tank didn't switch i would run out of fuel. The
problem is that, at least on my truck, when i switch tanks the fuel gauge
reads full and does not indicate any noticible movement for about 50 miles.
Now if I switch from one to the other and the original tank has two
gallons of fuel left, that is only good for about 30 miles. The end result
is that if the tank fails to switch I am out of fuel in 30 miles and I had
no indication because I wasn't expecting to see any movement on the fuel
gauge for another 20 miles. The really bad part of this is that since it
is a diesel I am probably looking at a tow and a lost day of travel while I
find someone that can prime the system. If it was gas I would just carry a
can of gas and never be concerned.

The old brass hand valve that was mounted on the floor of my Dad's '69 F250
was reliable and there was no question as to which tank you were using.
But we couldn't leave well enough alone, would we?


Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 09:39:35 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dual Tank Question

At 10:23 31/03/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Also no one has taken a shot at my other question. When I do switch, how
>do I know that the valve moved and I am running on a different tank.
>According to the wiring diagram of the truck the switch is a double pole
>switch so it seems to me that it would be possible to flip the switch and
>the gauge would read the new tank level but there is nothing to say that
>the valve actually moved and I am running on the new tank. Any thoughts?

What you propose COULD happen. When it does, the fuel guage will not go
down as you drive and the engine will die when you empty the other fuel
tank. Seems simple enough to me .

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150

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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 18:27:06 -0800
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:Driveshaft balance

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 08:56:20 -0500
From: Chris Hedemark
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 - Temp Guage + Air Bags + Drive Shaft Problems

David J. Smith wrote:[snip]
How hard is it to find someone to balance a driveshaft? And how much
should I expect to pay?
[snip]

David, look in the Yellow Pages under Driveline Services or ask your
favorite auto parts or 4x4 shop. Expect to pay between 30 to 40 dollars for
a balance if you bring the shaft in yourself. Another 25 dollars or so if
you just drive the truck in. Walt
- - --
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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 21:32:05 -0500
From: cannnon
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Oil Pump Pressure

How do you check oil pressure?
My guage reads real low and my 81 F150 is starting to sound like a
diesel truck.
But only when I'm on the road applying the gas pedal.
I have plenty of oil in it. Any ideas?

Cannon

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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 22:26:56 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - RE:Driveshaft balance

Also some shops find it easier to put your shaft on a shelf overnight locked
in a building instead of your vehicle. One shop I called said they wanted
the shaft not the truck....

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Posluszny, Walt (POSL) [SMTP:POSL chevron.com]
> Sent:Thursday, April 01, 1999 8:27 PM
> To:'80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - RE:Driveshaft balance
>
>
> Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 08:56:20 -0500
> From: Chris Hedemark
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 - Temp Guage + Air Bags + Drive Shaft
> Problems
>
> David J. Smith wrote:[snip]
> How hard is it to find someone to balance a driveshaft? And how much
> should I expect to pay?
> [snip]
>
> David, look in the Yellow Pages under Driveline Services or ask your
> favorite auto parts or 4x4 shop. Expect to pay between 30 to 40 dollars
> for
> a balance if you bring the shaft in yourself. Another 25 dollars or so if
> you just drive the truck in. Walt
> - --
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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 22:47:39 -0600
From: Geoffrey Schrag
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bronco running again, still few probs

Hey all,

I wanted to thank everyone for the help and assistance with the work
I've been attempting on my truck over the last few months. I can't say
enough about how much I appreciate the web site & advice from people in the
group. I finally have things mostly put back together since replacing the
clutch. I started it up tonite and drove it around the block and things
seemed to be running smoothly.
I have a couple more questions to throw at you though. I've noticed
that I can put the transmission in gear with the clutch pedal
up-disengaged, while sitting in the garage, I don't think this should be
possible! Also, I need to replace the front driveshaft and I was wondering
if its ok to drive it a few miles with it off, I can't see that this would
cause any problems at all?

Thanks again for all the help,

Geof Schrag
1980 Bronco
351M, 4sp


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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 21:29:48 +0000
From: Ben Craig
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Engine Swap

Hi all,

I have an 85 F-150 with a fuel injected 302 and a 4 speed. I lost oil
pressure, and now the engine won't idle, so I am assuming I need a new one.
I have been looking in to replacing it with a 351, but I don't know how my
fuel injection, computer, and pollution control will work with the bigger
engine. I am getting a new radiator and my bell housing is cracked, so
those are not really a concern. I would appreciate any cautions, hints,
and/or tips y'all can send my way.

Thanks,
Ben

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Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 00:08:36 -0800
From: "Leo Mosley"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 86 F150-302cid Exhaust

Hi Kevin
I have an 87 F150-302, and there is no donut or gasket between the manifold
and Y pipe (direct flange). I found this out when I had to change the
passenger side exhaust manifold, which was cracked, a couple of years ago. I
used a manifold to cylinder head gasket when I changed the manifold (there
was no gasket in it originally), and I suspect this was just enough to make
the Y pipe hard to line up on both sides. To make a long story short, I
ended up taking both Y pipe connections apart from the manifolds and put a
good layer of muffler cement on the flanges. I then got the studs started
and tightened both sides together, keeping things lined up as best as I....


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