80-96-list-digest Friday, March 26 1999 Volume 03 : Number 085



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Mass-Air Bronco--- IT RUNS!!!
FTE 80-96 - Straight Axle swap - 91 F250
FTE 80-96 - Re: Hey Casey
FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!
FTE 80-96 - RE: HELP! Dist. troubles!
RE: FTE 80-96 - Rear seat height
Re: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!
RE: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!
FTE 80-96 - Dist
FTE 80-96 - Dist gear
FTE 80-96 - Tranny fluids
RE: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!
FTE 80-96 - Re: '92 F250 - differential, vibration questions
FTE 80-96 - Broken Rear Axle Flange Bolt
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: '92 F250 - differential, vibration questions
RE: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!
RE: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!
FTE 80-96 - MODS
Re: FTE 80-96 - lift..
RE: FTE 80-96 - Hard starting from rear fuel tank
Re: FTE 80-96 - lift..
Re: FTE 80-96 - lift..

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 07:20:42 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Mass-Air Bronco--- IT RUNS!!!

Oh ok....thats why. Mine has the single to dual after the MAS, like you
stated.
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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:50:27 -0500
From: Greg Carter
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Straight Axle swap - 91 F250

Hi,

I am picking up a Dana 60 front axle from a 91 F350 tonight, with plans to
swap it into my 91 F250 which currently has the IFS with Dana 50. Anyone
ever tried this? Any advice? I am getting all the steering linkage from
the F350 along with the front drive shaft, it looks like a direct bolt in
since both have front leaf springs.

This all started because I wanted to put 4.56 gears in the truck and they
don't make anything higher than 4.10 for the Dana 50, so I had the option of
going to an IFS Dana 44. But I plan on running 38" tires now so I want the
extra strength of the Dana 60, plus it seems a good price...

Thanks.
- ----
Greg Carter, Entrust Technologies
greg.carter entrust.com


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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:29:45 -0500
From: cannnon
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Hey Casey

Have you pulled the vacuum line off the EGR valve?
When you first start the truck , the EGR valve should not have vaccum to
it.
After it heats(truck) the vacuum motor apllies the vacuum to the EGR
valve, which makes it open. If the EGR valve is open at start up it
causes a rough idle, I had this problem.
Trying to help.

Cannon

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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:34:20 -0700
From: Bret Godfrey
Subject: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!

I have a 91' f-150 4x4, the ignition switch went out on me
yesterday. I have been starting my truck by jumping the starter relay.
I would really like to get the switch fixed, but the dealer wants $150
to put in a $10 actuator. Has anyone had any expierence putting in a
new ignition switch?
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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:21:43 -0500
From: Bruce Ramirez
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!

Ford has a recall on the ignition switch for your truck. Go to the page
listed below. It lists all the recalls for a 1991 Ford F-150.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recmmy5.cfm

The main site address is http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/toc.html

If you haven't had your ignition switch already replaced under the
recall, then Ford should replace it free.

Bruce Ramirez
1991 F-150 4x4

Bret Godfrey wrote:
>
> I have a 91' f-150 4x4, the ignition switch went out on me
> yesterday. I have been starting my truck by jumping the starter relay.
> I would really like to get the switch fixed, but the dealer wants $150
> to put in a $10 actuator. Has anyone had any expierence putting in a
> new ignition switch?
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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:00:18 -0700
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: HELP! Dist. troubles!

Not to be an alarmist, but, have you considered the metal shards that you
pumped through your engine when this gear failed. It appears you built a
nice engine and now there may be bits of metal imbedded in the bearings.
I've seen it happen.

Larry


Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 16:53:20 -0600
From: mentch cybrzn.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - HELP! Dist. troubles!

Here is the problem.....The motor I just finished building is an 85
roller cam 302....I put an accel dual point distributer in it....When i
went to break in the motor it ran great for about 20 min. but then died
suddenly.....i pulled the cap to find that the rotor was not turning at
all.....when i pulled the Dist. The gear was stripped and some teeth
were missing! What would cause this? Does the roller cam need a diff.
dist. gear? If so where can i find one?

Thanks,
Brian
Mentch cybrzn.com


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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:04:32 -0600
From: "Stephen W. Hansen"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Rear seat height

Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rear seat height

96 I think. If you are interested in that option, JC Whitney and in the back
of the trucking magazines sell a kit for raising them About 100$ I plan to
get one someday then duplicate for my dad's truck

>>I wasn't aware of this but Ford raised the rear bench seat in the F150
>>Supercabs so passengers weren't sitting on the floor like the eariler
>>models. Does anyone know what year?



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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 11:42:32 -0500
From: Dave
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!

Bruce is correct in that there is a recall on several years of ignition
switchs. My 86 was not covered but there were reports of problems with
them so I changed it out. It was rather simple I had to drop the steering
colum and the switch was bolted in with Torx head bolts. On the Crown Vic
the switch was held in with tamper proof bolts so cut a slot across the top
with a Dremel tool and used a big screw driver to back them out.

Dave


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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:08:44 -0700
From: Bret Godfrey
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!

thanks for the link, but the recall is on the wiring and my truck has
already had the wiring replaced.
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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 11:53:54 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dist

Brian writes: >>Here is the problem.....The motor I just finished building is
an 85
roller cam 302....I put an accel dual point distributer in it....When i
went to break in the motor it ran great for about 20 min. but then died
suddenly.....i pulled the cap to find that the rotor was not turning at
all.....when i pulled the Dist. The gear was stripped and some teeth
were missing! What would cause this? Does the roller cam need a diff.
dist. gear? If so where can i find one?

That gear also drives the oilpump because the oil pump is driven from a shaft
that inserts into the bottom of the lower part of the dist shaft, just below the
gear. My bet is that you got something in your oilpump that caused it to seize,
therefore doing the damage you see. Hi volume pumps are famous for this. The
roller cam does not require a different gear drive.

Check your oil pump..

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 11:57:08 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dist gear

Matt writes: >>Yes, the roller cam requires a different gear. the dealer who
sold you the
distributor should be able to supply the gear. If not, you'r local Ford
dealer has (or can order) them.

Several years ago when I put a roller setup in a friends sons 302, we did not
change the gear. Are you speaking of Fords roller cam in the later versions or
aftermarket roller setups for the early 302??

Azie
Ardmore, al.


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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 12:03:30 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Tranny fluids

Craig writes: >>Is mercon the right stuff for this heavy duty transmission?

what does it have written on the dipstick??? It usually states the type of
fluid to use there as well as the methodology for proper checking of fluid
liver.

Actually, either will work, but to be safe use what is recommended.

Azie
Ardmore, Al


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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 11:45:48 -0700
From: Bret Godfrey
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!

Dave, how involved is droping the steering column. Do you have to pull
the steering wheel? Do I buy a whole new switch or do I just buy the
the actuator.

-Bret
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:45:24 -0800
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: '92 F250 - differential, vibration questions

On Wed, 24 Mar 1999, "Bud Dean" wrote:
>
> When I got started on rear brakes, when I removed the river side drum, the
> self adjusting cable fell out(it was shredded near the attachment bolt in
> the backing plate). I have 145,000 miles on the truck. The rear brakes were
> done app 50 - 60,000 miles ago. I swear the shoes had little if any wear. I
> went ahead and replaced the drums and shoes. Cleaned everything up. Did
> the back up and stop about 50 - 60 times (20 mins worth). I had adjusted
> them enough that the parking brake wouldn't hold...It holds now, so am
> confident the adjusters are working. Removed the drums on both sides, and
> the adjusting screws have been expanded. I have no fluid leaks and didn't
> notice any fluid around the cylinders(they are a little grimy, though).

If you don't carry much around in the back there should be a valve that
cuts back brake pressure there quite a lot. I just had to do both wheel
cylinders, at only about $25 I suggest you do to if there is any
evidence of leakage.

> I am fairly confident the rear bearings have never been touched(just go the
> tools, etc. for that operation this weekend). I do however, have a couple of
> strange symptoms(to me anyway).
>
> I have a vibration, which feels like it might be generated from behind me
> when I'm driving. The rougher the stretch of highway I'm, the more
> pronounced it becomes. When stopping, I feel what is like a grabbing and
> release effect and the vibration becomes more intense. It almost feels like
> the truck is trying to bounce. I jacked the car up, and tried to move the
> tires in and out. They don't feel "sloppy" to me, though there may be a
> little play.

Please let me know if you find a solution. If I had more money I would
probably already be there now but this sounds exactly like my truck.
The grabbing and release as far as I can tell is caused by some warping
of the front rotors on my truck. It is not so bad as to cause vibration
in the steering wheel but at a certain pressure I can feel it in the
brake pedal. One other possibility is a U-joint, I replaced it because
it was a little sloppy side to side, not rotationally, but it seemed to
make no difference. I have the front but haven't got around to it.
Also, what speed does this occur? Mine is worst at 45-55 mph.

> I was wondering if it is possible that the ABS sensor is faulty?


> I am going to do a 180 on the driveshaft as well. When I got the shaft back
> from the shop doing the u-joints, I had to guess at what I thought was my
> chalk mark.

I am also toying with the possibility that my shaft threw a balance
weight.

> When I got the supplies for the rear bearing project, I wanted to pick up
> some fluid for differential. I know it has a 10.25 ring gear with a 3.55
> ratio. The fella at the auto parts store need to know if it was limited slip
> or not...In the ford manual it show LS as an option. The codes in the front
> of the book show a set of numbers to identify the axle. Mine is a 39. In the
> book it shows another number in the series (a 2), which refers to the front
> axle if so quipped(mine isn't). The type code is x259, which indicates heavy
> duty.
>
> The numbers on the differential tag are:
>
> V122D
> 55 10 2 2C09
>
> Can I tell from this or how can I identify if I have a limited slip
> differential.

I think there is an L in there somewhere if it is. Otherwise put the
truck in neutral, jack up the whole rear end and give one tire a spin.
If the other one goes the same direction than it is, otherwise it is
not.

Birken
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 11:05:01 -0800
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Broken Rear Axle Flange Bolt

Last night as when I replaced my axle (86 F-250, 10.25") I was
tightening on the bolts with a bendy-type torque wrench when at about 75
a bolt stayed at that value and kept turning. This happened the day
before also when I was replacing an oil seal and had a clicker type
wrench (calibrated). I thought it must be sucking the axle up a little
bit but on about the third bolt it snapped right off. There was still a
little bit left connecting it so I took it out and was able to break it
in two with my fingers. I replaced it with some bolt from my spare bolt
stash but I would like to get the right ones in there. What is up with
these, are they shear bolts to protect the drivetrain or something?

Birken
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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 11:29:47 -0800
From: "Bud Dean"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: '92 F250 - differential, vibration questions

Thanks for tip on raising the rear end.

I don't know how bad you're vibration is. I did
rotors/bearings/calipers/pads on the front. I couldn't find my torque
wrench(think I loaned to someone), so I did it by feel. I could feel the
grabbing in the front. I drove around for a couple of days, hoping my torque
wrench would reappear, it didn't. Bought one...did the trick for the front
vibration/grabbing...you may want to check yours...

I am just heading out to the parts store...going to do the rear
bearings..and flip the drive shaft. I'll be sure to let you know the
results.

I read somewhere, darn if I can remember where, that someone discovered a
vibration was caused by a problem in the transmission. The code reader
reports problems with the torque converter. I don't want to tackle the
tranny (though I always tell my wife the mechanic's shop is only ever a tow
truck away).

I was debating about the wheel cylinders, seems a small price to pay.
Especially since my truck has 145,000 mi on it. When was a year old, I lost
one in the desert. That was no thrill.

Thanks again for the tip, I'll keep you posted...


Bud Dean
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Vogt Family
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 1999 10:45 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: '92 F250 - differential, vibration questions


On Wed, 24 Mar 1999, "Bud Dean" wrote:
>
> When I got started on rear brakes, when I removed the river
side drum, the
> self adjusting cable fell out(it was shredded near the
attachment bolt in
> the backing plate). I have 145,000 miles on the truck. The
rear brakes were
> done app 50 - 60,000 miles ago. I swear the shoes had little
if any wear. I
> went ahead and replaced the drums and shoes. Cleaned
everything up. Did
> the back up and stop about 50 - 60 times (20 mins worth). I
had adjusted
> them enough that the parking brake wouldn't hold...It holds
now, so am
> confident the adjusters are working. Removed the drums on
both sides, and
> the adjusting screws have been expanded. I have no fluid
leaks and didn't
> notice any fluid around the cylinders(they are a little
grimy, though).

If you don't carry much around in the back there should be a valve that
cuts back brake pressure there quite a lot. I just had to do
both wheel
cylinders, at only about $25 I suggest you do to if there is any
evidence of leakage.

> I am fairly confident the rear bearings have never been
touched(just go the
> tools, etc. for that operation this weekend). I do however,
have a couple of
> strange symptoms(to me anyway).
>
> I have a vibration, which feels like it might be generated
from behind me
> when I'm driving. The rougher the stretch of highway I'm, the more
> pronounced it becomes. When stopping, I feel what is like a
grabbing and
> release effect and the vibration becomes more intense. It
almost feels like
> the truck is trying to bounce. I jacked the car up, and
tried to move the
> tires in and out. They don't feel "sloppy" to me, though
there may be a
> little play.

Please let me know if you find a solution. If I had more money I would
probably already be there now but this sounds exactly like my truck.
The grabbing and release as far as I can tell is caused by some warping
of the front rotors on my truck. It is not so bad as to cause
vibration
in the steering wheel but at a certain pressure I can feel it in the
brake pedal. One other possibility is a U-joint, I replaced it because
it was a little sloppy side to side, not rotationally, but it seemed to
make no difference. I have the front but haven't got around to it.
Also, what speed does this occur? Mine is worst at 45-55 mph.

> I was wondering if it is possible that the ABS sensor is faulty?


> I am going to do a 180 on the driveshaft as well. When I got
the shaft back
> from the shop doing the u-joints, I had to guess at what I
thought was my
> chalk mark.

I am also toying with the possibility that my shaft threw a balance
weight.

> When I got the supplies for the rear bearing project, I
wanted to pick up
> some fluid for differential. I know it has a 10.25 ring gear
with a 3.55
> ratio. The fella at the auto parts store need to know if it
was limited slip
> or not...In the ford manual it show LS as an option. The
codes in the front
> of the book show a set of numbers to identify the axle. Mine
is a 39. In the
> book it shows another number in the series (a 2), which
refers to the front
> axle if so quipped(mine isn't). The type code is x259, which
indicates heavy
> duty.
>
> The numbers on the differential tag are:
>
> V122D
> 55 10 2 2C09
>
> Can I tell from this or how can I identify if I have a limited slip
> differential.

I think there is an L in there somewhere if it is. Otherwise put the
truck in neutral, jack up the whole rear end and give one tire a spin.
If the other one goes the same direction than it is, otherwise it is
not.

Birken
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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 15:20:11 -0500
From: Dave
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!

Bret :

On my truck it was very easy to drop the column , just two bolts holding to
the bottom of the dash and It rested on the seat. I had my 6 year old hold
it up when I bolted it back. On the 86 the switch is on the top side of the
steering column at the floor end, and is actuated by a rod which is pushed
down when you turn the key. My truck does not have a tilt steering wheel ,
air bags or cruise etc. Make sure to disconnect the battery , and you can
figure out the switch position relative to the key position. I did this
several years ago and I think the parts guy told me it was shipped in the
run position , I can't remember if this was true or not.

Good Luck
Dave w/86 F-150


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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 15:22:29 -0500
From: Dave
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - faulty ignition switch!!

>
Do I buy a whole new switch or do I just buy the
>the actuator.

I forgot this part . I purchased the switch ~10 to 15 dollars. The key part
has been fine.

Dave



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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 13:00:41 PST
From: 2insane excite.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - MODS

Anyone know of a website or have information on any CHEAP good modifications
that I could make on my 89 f-150 to improve speed and torque. Right now it's
just a stock 302 efi v8.
thanx for any info.




_______________________________________________________
Get your free, private email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.excite.com/
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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 13:56:25 -0800 (PST)
From: shy anne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - lift..

Yes it is a 2wd. The tires are 31x10.5
here is pic...
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/heartland/pointe/5898/red4.jpgwhen i hit a bump
or turn a sharp corner, the tire hits the truck.

- --- Radoje Spasojevic wrote:
> Your truck is 2wd right? If so it is fairly easy to
> lift it as there are
> several manufacturers that make lifts for 2wd Fords.
> If it is a 4WD and you
> are not planning on doing any hardcore offroading
> then a body lift woud be
> my suggestion. They are MUCH easier to install, and
> will not affect the
> handling of your truck as much as a suspension lift.
> A body lift would work
> just fine on a 2WD truck too. What size tires do you
> have? I have
> 31x10.50's and they fit just fine on my Bronco.
> 32x11.50 are about the
> biggest tires you can fit on a 4WD Ford F-150/Bronco
> without a lift.
>
> Rade
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shy anne
> To: ford maillist
> Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 4:41 AM
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - lift..
>
>
> >I got bigger tires for my truck but they are almost
> too big for the
> >front. i don't want to get smaller tires. i would
> like to lift the
> >front up some.
> >(actually i would love to lift it up a lot but...)
> >how can i do that. if yall want, i can post a
> picture to show how it
> >is.
> >thanks!
> >shy
> >
> >===
> >-"God forbid I shall go to any heaven where there
> are no horses."
> >
> >
> >
> >_________________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Get your free yahoo.com address at
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
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> >
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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>

===
- -"God forbid I shall go to any heaven where there are no horses."



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:51:16 -0600
From: "Chuck"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Hard starting from rear fuel tank

OK, its been a while since last updated this problem: I took it to a dealer
and they were saying there was all kinds of KOER codes and I knew this was
BS because I checked it before I took it down there and check it again when
I got it back, and, NOTHING! no KOER, KOEO or Continous Memory codes. Well,
they told me to stop running the higher Octane gas and run the 87 octane and
they put this K44 in the rear tank to clean out the carbon problem they also
mentioned.

I filled up the rear tank where they put the K44 and it run fine until it
got closer to the half tank mark and it then started getting harder to start
after being shut off for a period of time, say about 20-30 min, it would
crank and crank and crank.... then I would turn it off and crank once more
and it then fires up like nothing is wrong. Its now doing this on both
tanks. The filter is new, the charcoal canister is venting just fine.

Anymore ideas out there?

The dealer says one fuel pump is $300 and the other is $200, geezzzzzzzz!

I mean, what are the chances of both fuel pumps being bad?


I need help with some ideas here

Chuck
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ionet.net/~dtra


>
>
> yes the rail mounted fuel pump
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>

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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 21:30:10 EST....


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