80-96-list-digest Wednesday, March 24 1999 Volume 03 : Number 083



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Booster and rough idle?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Booster and rough idle?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Booster and rough idle?
FTE 80-96 - Re:Brakes and Shocks
FTE 80-96 - engine oil leak origions
FTE 80-96 - Door handle blues
FTE 80-96 - I-6 rebuild
Re: FTE 80-96 - Door handle blues
Re: FTE 80-96 - I-6 rebuild
FTE 80-96 - Fun with Ch*vy
FTE 80-96 - Idleing problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Door handle blues
FTE 80-96 - new triton V-10
Re: FTE 80-96 - new triton V-10
FTE 80-96 - Aerostar v-6
Re: FTE 80-96 - Aerostar v-6
FTE 80-96 - Updating Virus Definition Files
FTE 80-96 - Clutches and Brakepads and Paint... Oh My!
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Spamming the lists
Re: FTE 80-96 - New to list- 1988 Ford F150
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Updated charter and FAQ
Re: FTE 80-96 - Aerostar v-6

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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 07:28:21 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Booster and rough idle?

Casey,
NO!!!! The vacuum is what gives the booster some of its power to help you
stop. Disconnecting it would give you less braking power.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 07:42:09 EST
From: PSales264 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Booster and rough idle?

Did you check out the booster it self for an internal vacuum leak?
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 07:44:21 EST
From: PSales264 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Booster and rough idle?

yes that is a way to check the booster . if unhookong the booster and
plugging the line cures the rough idle , change the booster.
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 07:17:51 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:Brakes and Shocks

I agree with others that your calipers should not need a rebuild at their
young age. For future reference, I used to rebuild calipers myself at ~$50
per side for parts. It can be done at home. Helps to have compressed air
to get the piston out. Then one day Autozone (or Advance) offered me a
rebuilt caliper for a Jeep I had for $12.50. That was the end of doing it
myself. Regarding shocks, if you have no special off road or towing needs,
I like the Gabriel gas shocks sold by the discount auto parts stores. They
have a couple models that are good, an SUV shock and a light truck shock. I
chose the SUV model for just a well controlled smooth ride. Both models are
about 18 bucks each.

Thanks,
David Anderson
System Design

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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 08:30:37 -0500
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - engine oil leak origions

hey all,

im going to track down the oil leak in my 351w. other than the
obvious,(valve covers, oil sending unit, timing cover, oil filter, and pan,
front and rear seals), where else has anyone found leaks at?
im a firm believer in keeping the fluids in the motor and trans. the leak
on mine is coming from the valve covers, I THINK.
im going to borrow the neighbors pressure washer, and decrud the motor
first. then the hunt is on!

on a sad note, my neighbor had his 83 van catch fire last night. its toast!
backfired thru the carb. he is not the brightest guy, and when I asked him
why didn't he just suck the flames back thru the carb. he said "What?" how
he got to 40yrs old is still a mystery.
I put a fire exting. in my truck 2 weeks ago, fearing that might happen to
me too some day. strange, very strange.

mike baker
pmbaker your-net.com

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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:07:50 -0700
From: "Gerald L. Hinkle Jr. CPA"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Door handle blues

Hello list people. The other day my wife locked the keys in my truck.
Since she works over 35 miles away from my place of work, and being tax
season (a busy time for me) she called a tow truck guy to open the door
with a slim jim I presume. Several days later, my Father-in-Law borrows
the truck and while he is using it the drivers side door handle freezes up
and wont move much less open the door. All other elements of the door
works fine. In order to exit the truck however you must roll down the
window and reach out and use the out side handle. I assume the guy screwed
something up when he "unlocked" the door, even though it worked fine for a
few days after that. My Father-in-Law, like my own father is a renowned
Door Slammer! I think since these guys are old timers, they are used to
the old trucks that need to have the doors slammed in order to shut them.
This irks me a great deal. My Father slams the door like he is swinging a
rail road car door shut! I am going to remove the door panel this weekend
to attempt to fix the problem. Can anyone tell give me any tips prior to
the operation? Can anyone tell me if I can get the push-pin clip deals
that hold the panel to the door anywhere else except the dealer? Thanks
for the help!

Jerry Hinkle Jr. CPA
"RULEMAKER" 94 F-350 Crew Cab 4x4
"LTS-ROK" 80 JEEP CJ-5
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 08:21:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Alex Wolfe
Subject: FTE 80-96 - I-6 rebuild

I'm sure this question has been asked before, but for the life of me
I can not find any reference to it in the archives! It has come time
to rebuild my '84 I-6 out of an F-150. I am having difficulty
locating any books or manuals that have information about this engine.
There are many that deal with the rest of the ford line and have a
brief reference to this engine (i.e. Detach bolts. Pull engine.
Rebuild. Installation is reverse of removal.) but I can't find any
books on this particular engine! Any help would be very much
appreciated!

Alex Wolfe
'84 I-6 F-150 (currently very ill)
unknown year City Bus (every morning and night, ick)




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 08:31:04 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Door handle blues

You can find the push pin clips at Eagle Hardware, if there is one near you.
My only advice is to be VERY careful prying the pins out, too much pressure
and you will break the panel where it holds the pin and you will need a new
panel. I found this out the hard way. A pair of stiff spatulas on either
side of the pin will be the best bet to gently pry them out.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gerald L. Hinkle Jr. CPA
To: ford trucks
Date: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 4:18 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Door handle blues


>Hello list people. The other day my wife locked the keys in my truck.
>Since she works over 35 miles away from my place of work, and being tax
>season (a busy time for me) she called a tow truck guy to open the door
>with a slim jim I presume. Several days later, my Father-in-Law borrows
>the truck and while he is using it the drivers side door handle freezes up
>and wont move much less open the door. All other elements of the door
>works fine. In order to exit the truck however you must roll down the
>window and reach out and use the out side handle. I assume the guy screwed
>something up when he "unlocked" the door, even though it worked fine for a
>few days after that. My Father-in-Law, like my own father is a renowned
>Door Slammer! I think since these guys are old timers, they are used to
>the old trucks that need to have the doors slammed in order to shut them.
>This irks me a great deal. My Father slams the door like he is swinging a
>rail road car door shut! I am going to remove the door panel this weekend
>to attempt to fix the problem. Can anyone tell give me any tips prior to
>the operation? Can anyone tell me if I can get the push-pin clip deals
>that hold the panel to the door anywhere else except the dealer? Thanks
>for the help!
>
>Jerry Hinkle Jr. CPA
>"RULEMAKER" 94 F-350 Crew Cab 4x4
>"LTS-ROK" 80 JEEP CJ-5
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 11:35:34 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - I-6 rebuild

Alex Wolfe wrote:
> to rebuild my '84 I-6 out of an F-150. I am having difficulty
> locating any books or manuals that have information about this engine.
> There are many that deal with the rest of the ford line and have a
> brief reference to this engine (i.e. Detach bolts. Pull engine.
> Rebuild. Installation is reverse of removal.)
>
The Haynes book has some info on the 300, but not a huge amount. Of
course, the Factory Service Manual would have everything you ever wanted
to know, and a few things you didn't, about it. ;-)
- --
Andre
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 11:54:44 -0600
From: "Harold Day"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fun with Ch*vy

Went fishing over the weekend, to a spot on the nearest river. This is a
popular spot and is well known. Has a nice wide rock beach where many folks
put small boats into the water.

As I pulled into the beach and went to park my truck, (84 F150 Supercab,
351, 3 speed auto, 3:73 rear, 2x4) a guy approached and asked if I could try
to tow him out. When he had dropped his boat, he had gotten stuck a bit. He
had then proceeded to dig himself in pretty good. His Ch*vy was sunk in to
the axle. We attached a tow strap and I took up the slack, gave a good tug,
and broke him loose from where he was. I stopped and he proceeded to try to
pull out, and again dug himself in to the axle. So I did it again, and he
did the same thing again.

Well I'd had it with that, so next time I pulled and kept pulling, I looked
in my mirror, and he had hit his brake, I knew this cause his front tires
were sliding. I was still pulling him with all four of his tires sliding
across the beach. When he figured I wasn't stopping, he let off his brake,
and I pulled him up to the road.

We got out and un-hooked the strap, He just stared at my truck, and said
"Man, that's some truck"

Didn't catch any fish, but hooking that Ch*vy was worth the trip;-)
Harold


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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 13:45:36 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Idleing problem

Casey writes: >>I have been having some real bad
problems with the idling of my 351W, and I just realized that since the
brake booster started leaking the idle has been bad. Before I screw it
up, I was wondering if I could pop off the vacuum line of the booster
and plug it when the engine is running. Should the idle come back to
normal/close to normal with the booster line plugged?

This is a good test to determine if your booster is leaking. If it is leaking,
and leaking enough, it will lean your mixture enough to cause misfire, so
plugging it off should make your engine smoothe out. Sounds like you need a new
booster.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:28:17 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Door handle blues

Most of the push in clips that hold the door panel in place can be found in
Pep Boys in the Help Section however i can get them also in a good auto body
repair supply shop.. i think a card of six goes for liks $1.29
Regards
Bob
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:40:09 EST
From: Metalsped aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - new triton V-10

I was wondering if anyone out there knew what the cubes were for the new
Triton V-10? Thanks in advance

Rich May
1999 F250 Super Duty
1989 Centurion C350
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 17:59:29 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - new triton V-10

Metalsped aol.com wrote:
>
> I was wondering if anyone out there knew what the cubes were for the new
> Triton V-10? Thanks in advance

I know its a 6.8L...its small lets put it that way...I like the sound of
Dodges 8.0L myself!
Chris
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 15:35:50 PST
From: "Daniel Eyk"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Aerostar v-6

A friend has an Aeerostar with the 3.0,v-6, that has noticeable rust in
the radiator and coolant. The van has about 160,000 miles on it. Can
this be corrected and/or is it an indicator of trouble? Any suggestions
would be helpful. Thanks, Dan
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 15:58:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Alan Alquist
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Aerostar v-6

Advice #1:

Take it to a radiator shop and have it flow checked. If it is a
'cost-effective' repairable radiator (any reputable shop will tell you
upfront) they will soak it in a scale-dissolving solution, pressure check
it, fix any leaks, pressure check it again (repeat process until perfect),
install it in vehicle and run it out to check 'in-vehicle' operation.

Advice #2:

Tell your friend to get rid of it. The A4LD-OD Tranny will go soon if it
has not already. These are expensive trannies (junkyard units go for
$600-900; no labor) and are not up to the standards that are in Ford
Trucks (C-6's, etc.).

On Tue, 23 Mar 1999,
Daniel Eyk wrote:

A friend has an Aeerostar with the 3.0,v-6, that has noticeable rust in
the radiator and coolant. The van has about 160,000 miles on it. Can
this be corrected and/or is it an indicator of trouble? Any suggestions
would be helpful. Thanks, Dan
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Univ of Wash; Research Scientist
1959 NE Pacific St; Rehab Med; Box 356490
Seattle, WA 98195-6490
206-685-7313(Off)206-685-3244(Fax) 206-994-1450(Page)
flag u.washington.edu


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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 18:15:55 -0600
From: "Shawn & Jennifer Clark"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Updating Virus Definition Files

It may be a good time for many of us to upgrade virus definition files. In
addition to the virus mentioned earlier, there are a number of new Word
Macro viruses running loose. The Ethan macro virus seems to be running
rampant and, while I have not personally had it, I have helped remove it
from a number of machines and have seen e-mail come in from several
companies infected with it. It is fairly innocuous, but the best course is
not to contract it (the virus checker software "fixes" for some of the
infected files seemed to corrupt them worse than the virus itself.)

Shawn Clark
1991 F-150 Extended Cab w/ 302
Provides several local mechanics' vacation funds
Nearly as undependable as my first car--a hand-me-down 1973 AMC Ambassador
(that single car may have been the reason AMC went out of business)

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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 21:16:35 -0500
From: Philip Jern
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Clutches and Brakepads and Paint... Oh My!

What would you list folk expect to get for clutch life in a 96 F-150,
I-6, mazda 5 speed? The reason I am asking is that at 63,500 miles, I
am noticing that the amount of "pedal" it takes to disengage the clutch
seems significantly less than it used to. I see no evidence of slippage
yet, and would want to replace the plate before it got to that point
anyway. (I drive my truck daily for work, so downtime is best scheduled
in advance, as much as possible.)

On that tangent, where best to get a replacement? AutoZoned says that
my truck is "too new" and they don't have the part available, and I know
precious little enough about the companies that make clutches and brake
pads, etc. Is there a "Heavy Duty" replacement available?
Recommendations for replacements, anyone? 95 percent of my driving is
just the daily round town type of driving, with an occasional weekend
trip towing a 1300 lb. popup camper.

Also, I expect to have to do the front brakes soon, there's about 1/3 of
the lining left there. Recommendations on pads, anyone?

Just so I can live up to my Subject: line.....

the "argent" (silver) paint on my front bumper is washing off. (grrr).
The bumper has a ding or two anyway, and I might well want to get a
bumper "cover" thingie. Anyone have any words, (good or bad) about
those?

Thanks,

Phil
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Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 00:04:49 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Spamming the lists

Just wanted everyone to know that before they buy anything
from Superior Carburators that this company thinks its ok
to spam our mailing lists. As usual, our list filters
caught the spam. I've cc'd the spammer if anyone else
wants to discuss this with the spammer.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 22:12:17 -0800
From: "Nolan Woodbury"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New to list- 1988 Ford F150

Hi Colin,

> most of the heater flapper controls are vaccum controlled..... atleast on
my
> '95.....also, do you have a/c..... if so it could be a problem with the
> evaporator!!! Let me know... i'm a truck and transport mechanic and a
ford
> owner myself.

I've got the manual on order, so I should have a better idea how my truck
is put together. All of the heater and AC controls work well, as does the
air itself. Something tells me the problem lies with the clutch slave...the
whooshing noise seems to be coming from the top of the transmission
(through the shifter boot). That looks like a real chore to change; the
slave is inside the bellhousing. The clutch pedal sticks down (with a short
engagement travel) when the truck is cold in the morning, but after a few
tries, returns to normal. Adding fluid to the reservoir cures it for a
couple of days, then the problem returns.

??

Nolan
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Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 00:51:15 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Updated charter and FAQ

Hi gang,

The FAQ and charter have been updated to duplicate information
found elsewhere on the site (i.e., the link at the bottom of
the charter). This update was done in order to clarify the
position of Ford Truck Enthusiasts concerning non-Ford power
plants in Ford trucks.

During the Summer/Fall of 1998, several people on the "core"
list made a decision concerning a club charter which would
exclude Ford family trucks which were powered by non-Ford
family engines (engines not made by Ford but installed by
Ford are acceptable, see the charter for details). Ford Truck
Enthusiasts, although a separate entity from the club (yet
to be incorporated as a non-profit), keeps itself "in sync"
with this tenant of the club.

For those that don't know, the core list is a group of
volunteers who act as advisors to myself/FTE and it also
facilitates communication for the formation of a national Ford
truck club. The core is open to anyone willing to volunteer
their time to discuss the direction of FTE - its not there
to air your dirty laundry but complaints are acceptable.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

PS- Give a round of applause to Keith Srb (herbie ford-trucks.com)
for being the admin of the 97+, small chassis and performance
lists. He's sort of the silent unsung hero behind the scenes
with those lists.

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Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:45:37 +0100 (CET)
From: Thomas_Ucen kirchgruppe.de (Thomas Ucen)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Aerostar v-6

Hi list,

I have a '93 Aerostar 3.0L. My first Ford. This statement below (from
another problem) made me nervous:

>Advice #2:
>
>Tell your friend to get rid of it. The A4LD-OD Tranny will go soon if it
>has not already. These are expensive trannies (junkyard units go for....


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