80-96-list-digest Saturday, March 20 1999 Volume 03 : Number 079



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Re: ENGINE PROBLEMS
Re: FTE 80-96 - full throttle stall.
Re: FTE 80-96 - full throttle stall.
FTE 80-96 - Rear Seal and Torque Converters
FTE 80-96 - Brakes and Shocks
FTE 80-96 - power window slipping
Re: FTE 80-96 - power window slipping
FTE 80-96 - RE:Ineed a muffler!
FTE 80-96 - F150 -- Helpers or Air Adjustable Shocks?
Re: FTE 80-96 - power loss
FTE 80-96 - Diesel Engine Info on the Web
FTE 80-96 - Re:
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brakes and Shocks

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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:59:39 -0600
From: Roy Houston
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: ENGINE PROBLEMS

How did a leaking carb get fuel in your engine oil??

I have a mechanical fuel pump on my '85 which is open to the crankcase on
the backside. Is it possible for this thing to leak into the case?? Maybe
it's sucking air??

Later, Roy


+++++++ you said++++++++
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 07:42:05 PST
From: "keith tucker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ENGINE PROBLEMS

I have an '87 XLT Lariat 5.8L 351W. I was getting fuel in my engine
oil, so I replaced a leaking carburetor. Now, the thing still runs REAL
rough. It misses all the time. Shakes when I slow to a stop. Stalls
on me too. I replaced the fuel filters, plugs, wires, cap & rotor,
distributor(rebuilt), ignition box(rebuilt), air filter, oil filter and
oil. Some of these repairs were unrelated to this particular problem,
but I wanted to mention them.
Do I have a valve problem? I'm running out of options. My mechanic is
doing a compression test for me right now. If it is a bent valve or
something, is it worth fixing? If it isn't a valve problem, then what
the heck could it be? Is it time to replace the timing chain/belt? I'm
at a loss.
I appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
Keith
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- ------------------------------


Roy Houston
85 F-150XL SC 351W H.O 4V
houston1 _at_ slb _dot_ com
houzoodad _at_ aol _dot_ com
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:29:00 -0600
From: "Gourde, Darrin"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - full throttle stall.

Also check your ground cable. I had a boat that did the same thing, turned
out to be the ignition system could not keep up at higher seeds do to a bad
ground cable.

Darrin
Fargo, ND



Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:03:21 EST
From: CphgnCwby1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - full throttle stall.

I would guess a fuel filter....I had one that was so damn clogged it did
exactly the same thing...and it clogged in a matter of about 2 or 3 days

Check both of them, and mainly the one that is in the resivoir
=
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:01:15 -0800
From: Al Alquist
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - full throttle stall.

...way down the list of possibilities is an inadequately ventilated gas tank.
Try to rule out electrical problems first; sounds like you have covered fluid
conduits/filters nicely.

"Gourde, Darrin" wrote:

> Also check your ground cable. I had a boat that did the same thing, turned
> out to be the ignition system could not keep up at higher seeds do to a bad
> ground cable.
>
> Darrin
> Fargo, ND
>
> Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:03:21 EST
> From: CphgnCwby1 aol.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - full throttle stall.
>
> I would guess a fuel filter....I had one that was so damn clogged it did
> exactly the same thing...and it clogged in a matter of about 2 or 3 days
>
> Check both of them, and mainly the one that is in the resivoir
> =
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 10:42:00 PST
From: "Chris Mahaffey"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rear Seal and Torque Converters

I've seen some talk about a shudder during the 3-4 shift with AODE
transmissions. I had the same problem in my 95 Cougar. The Ford garage
told me to change the fluid (including draining the torque converter)
and the problem would go away. I gave that a try and it seems to have
worked. I'll have to see what happens in the long run. I don't know if
changing the fluid in a truck would yield the same results or not.

It looks like one of the radius arm bushings on my 92 Flareside has been
replaced (I'm basing that on the fact the drivers side is a hard white
plastic and the passengers side is a soft rubber). I'm thinking about
doing the other one because the shop can't seem to get it aligned. Is
that job really as bad as it's made out to be? Have any of you tried
changing it by not chiseling the rivets off the bracket? I was thinking
about changing the ball joints and tie rod ends while I was working on
it because by Dad has had alot of trouble with the originals on his 88
and I've heard of tie rod ends and ball joints that are steel on some
sort of plastic rather than steel on steel. They are supposed to be
smoother and last longer. Do any of you have experience with these? Is
it worth messing with them or should I stick with the "if it aint broke
don't fix it" addage?

Someone was asking about the Flowmaster 3" exhaust. I installed one of
their cat back systems on my truck which has the 4.9L w/ 4 spd manual.
It seems to have given the engine more power in the mid range. I
haven't towed the boat yet to know if it will improve power under load
(which is why I went with the 3"). Boating season is getting close so I
hope to be able to let you all know how it works out. Do any of you
have tips for improving the towing ability of my truck? I was thinking
about a K&N filter. Is the complete intake replacement type better than
just the filter?

I also would like to install a tach on my truck. Any suggestions for
make, model, or mounting location. I don't want to have to butcher the
dash up too much for it. I remember the days of my Dad's 70's F150 with
the flat metal dash which made mounting extra gauges easy. Now with
everything being curved plastic it's harder to do.

And lastley, the attached message mentions "rear seal oil leakage
similar to what you would expect from a bad pvc valve." My Cougar has a
leaking rear seal, could it be related to the pvc? If it could be,
could someone explain why that is?

Thanks

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 20:35:15 -0800From: bob chaytor

Subject: FTE 80-96 - PCV BREATHER SLUDGE CUREHI ALL
I've been having severe sludge coming from my pvc breather and rear seal
oil leakage similar to what you would expect from a bad pvc valve . Well
after trying different things expecting the worse and finding no causes
I tried something kind of ,I thought silly. I removed that plastic tube
that goes from the valve cover to the air cleaner, and simply stuffed a
filter in to the spigot of the filler neck.
Well a week later no sludge at all. I think what is happening is the
tube is filling with condensation and any oil mist that gets in is then
converted to sludge. When I removed the valve covers before they were
virtually clean, which led me to thinking of the tube.
IT WORKS FOR ME88 F150 302 EFI
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 12:20:00 -0700
From: "Tom Higgins"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brakes and Shocks

Greetings all,

I need some advice/recommendations. I've got a 96 F150 5.0 auto
with 36k miles. I just got the front end aligned and have about 15%
left on the front brakes. I know the list has recently discussed re-
building the calipers when putting on new pads. Here's my question.
I don't think that I'll have any problems with the pads (based on the
same repair multiple times on an 84 Town Car) but can I easily
rebuild the calipers myself in a weekend? More importantly, can
I screw this up? Brakes and steering can be real bad if they fail
at the wrong time.

Also, I need new shocks. I don't do any routine heavy hauling and
am interested in what everyone recommends (cost/performance) as
a good replacement. Are these easy to change? I helped my Dad
with the rear shocks on his 84 Town Car and told him next time I'll give
the $40 to have someone else do it. It was that bad.

Thanks,

Tom in Phoenix



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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 15:17:56 -0500
From: "Alger, Timothy, CTR, AFSAA/SAT"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - power window slipping

I have a 1986 F150 XLT w/ power windows. Yesterday the drivers side window
started slipping and eventually it would not come up at all. I pulled off
the door panel and the teeth on the regulator gear looks ok as far as I can
see so I am guessing it must be in the motor. There is plently of power
going to the motor it is just not engaging unless I help it along. Has
anyone else had this problem. I guess I will begin with determining the
cost for a window motor replacement. If anyone has any ideas they would be
greatly appreciated.



thanks
tim alger

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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 15:34:46 -0600
From: David Cole
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - power window slipping

The motor has a nylon gear on it. The teeth on this gear are most likely
stripped. You can buy a rebuild kit at Auto Zone (or other chain store)
for ~$25.

You have to drill out the four aluminum rivets that hold the regulator to
the door. With that done you can disconnect the regulator from the door
glass and remove the entire assembly (regulator and motor) it's easy to
replace the gear once the motor is out. When you put it back in just use
short bolts in place of the rivets.

I have done this repair on 4 different Ford vehicles (F-150, Bronco II,
Mustang, T-Bird) and the average time needed is about 2.5 hrs. Fairly
simple to do.

Later,

David Cole

At 03:17 PM 3/19/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I have a 1986 F150 XLT w/ power windows. Yesterday the drivers side window
>started slipping and eventually it would not come up at all. I pulled off
>the door panel and the teeth on the regulator gear looks ok as far as I can
>see so I am guessing it must be in the motor. There is plently of power
>going to the motor it is just not engaging unless I help it along. Has
>anyone else had this problem. I guess I will begin with determining the
>cost for a window motor replacement. If anyone has any ideas they would be
>greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
>thanks
>tim alger
>
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>
>

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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 16:14:42 -0600
From: mentch cybrzn.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:Ineed a muffler!

I have an 86 F-250...before i put duals on i was running just the
2-peice cats...i cut the muffler out and welded in a solid pipe...it
sounded great and i gained about 2 mpg on the highway.


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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 17:43:03 -0500
From: Jay Snyder
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 -- Helpers or Air Adjustable Shocks?

My '87 F150 is very wimpy from a load standpoints. It weights 37xx lbs
empty, and the GVW on the sticker is only 4900lbs (my old C20 weighed
that empty).

When I hooked my car trailer (with my old C20 on it) , it really sagged.
I want to give it a little help. I've considered helper springs, but that
will make it ride like hell when empty. Then I saw Gabrial Hi Jackers
air adjustable shocks. The company claims on the box that they
can support 1100lbs (I would assume for the pair). Are these any
good? I could pump 'em up when towing, or heavily loaded, but
then soften 'em up when empty.

Even if these Hi Jackers are good, there's another problem. The
applications guide at the store says they are not availible for '85-'96
F150,250 & 350. They do list '80-'84.

I thought '80-'96 where the same chassis???

Are there any other air adjustable shocks out there availible for my truck?

One other questions --- are the shock mounts on my truck beefy
enough to handle this load, or should I use helper springs??


Thanks,
Jay
'87 F-150

============================================================
Jay Snyder
jsnyder microserve.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.microserve.net/~jsnyder
(717)652-3567
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 18:21:46 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - power loss

one word answer ALTERNATOR
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 19:34:44 -0600
From: Rob
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Diesel Engine Info on the Web

Does anyone know of a good source on the web where I can find out
information on diesel engines? I just bought a 1993 Ford F350 with the
7.3L Diesel, and it's the first diesel I've ever had. Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks,

Rob Cowan
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:40:47 EST
From: DENNY727 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:


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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 22:00:12 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brakes and Shocks

Tom-
You do not need to rebuild the calipers on this new of a truck. Just slap
some new pads in it. When the caliper if off the spindle to insert the new
pads, clean up the surfaces on the spindle and on the caliper where one
mounts onto the other, then give it a light coat of high-temp grease to
keep it sliding freely until you replace the pads again. That is all you
need to do. You will need to press the piston on the caliper back in (but
you knew that if you have done disc brakes before). Unless the disks are
scored or you feel some pulsation when you brake now, I would not turn the
rotors either.

Comments to others about rebuilding calipers was (as I recall) directed to
people who had much older trucks with more miles and years on them. Your
'96 is hardly broken in yet! :-)

I don't know anything about shocks.

At 12:20 19/03/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Greetings all,
>
>I need some advice/recommendations. I've got a 96 F150 5.0 auto
>with 36k miles. I just got the front end aligned and have about 15%
>left on the front brakes. I know the list has recently discussed re-
>building the calipers when putting on new pads. Here's my question.
>I don't think that I'll have any problems with the pads (based on the
>same repair multiple times on an 84 Town Car) but can I easily
>rebuild the calipers myself in a weekend? More importantly, can....


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