80-96-list-digest Friday, March 19 1999 Volume 03 : Number 078



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Re: FTE Perf - ADMIN: Virus checking
Re: FTE 80-96 - 96 F150 shift kit?
FTE 80-96 - I need a muffler
FTE 80-96 - '92 F250 Suspension/Trans question
FTE 80-96 - full throttle stall.
FTE 80-96 - ENGINE PROBLEMS
FTE 80-96 - Truck tie downs
FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushings Finished (sorta)
FTE 80-96 - Re: Shaking speedometer needle and noise in cabin
Re: FTE 80-96 - ENGINE PROBLEMS
RE: FTE 80-96 - ENGINE PROBLEMS
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushings Finished (sorta)
FTE 80-96 - Re: lmb Radius Arm Bushings Finished (sorta)
Re: FTE 80-96 - ENGINE PROBLEMS
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushings Finished (sorta)
Re: FTE 80-96 - full throttle stall.
FTE 80-96 - power loss
RE: FTE 80-96 - ENGINE PROBLEMS
Re: FTE 80-96 - full throttle stall.
Re: FTE 80-96 - power loss
Re: FTE 80-96 - power loss
RE: FTE 80-96 - power loss
FTE 80-96 - PCV BREATHER SLUDGE CURE
Re: FTE 80-96 - '92 F250 Suspension/Trans question
Re: FTE 80-96 - power loss
FTE 80-96 - RE: Perkins Diesel

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 06:14:36 -0500
From: Bruce Ramirez
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: FTE Perf - ADMIN: Virus checking

Ken Payne wrote:
>
> While the list server will reject emails with a virus (it
> rejects all attachments), I still get them in my personal
> emailbox. In the position I'm in as admin of the lists,
> I get lots of email sent to me personally (about 50 each
> day). As such, I've been getting exposed on a daily basis
> to the Happy99 virus EXE attached to emails. I run a virus
> checker and have since McAfee was a nobody shareware company
> in the DOS days. IMHO, using a virus checker is a
> fundamental pre-requisite for using a computer and they
> don't cost much.
>
> Anyone posting an email to me or the lists with the Happy99
> virus attached will be blocked from sending email to our
> server in order to prevent possible infection. If you don't
> know if you have it, don't post or send me email - you will
> be cut off without warning! In other words, use a virus
> checker.
>
> Ken Payne
> Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>
> PS- You won't get a virus from me or the list server. We
> update our virus definition files on a monthly basis.
>
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- -----------------
TIP OF THE WEEK I - Happy99.exe worm - (New)
- -----------------
Our e-mail support staff answers hundreds of e-mails a day. In the
past week, at least five customers have inadvertently sent us this
Happy99.exe worm. We figure that about 2 percent of the
mail we get is now carrying the Happy99.exe worm and we'd like to get
that figure back to zero percent.

If you have recently run a program that displays fireworks in a small
window that says "Happy New Year 1999", most likely your computer has
this worm.

First, let's get rid of that program and then we'll tell you more about
it.

NOTE: As far as we know, this worm ONLY affects Windows 95/98/NT users.
Windows 3.1, Macintosh and other operating systems are apparently not
affected.

Ken

Here is a copy of an alert my server sent me about the Happy99.exe
virus. Please feel free to distribute among the lists so everyone who
has Happy99.exe on their system can safely remove it.

Bruce Ramirez
1991 F-150 4x4

- ------------
INSTRUCTIONS
- ------------
1. Print out these instructions.
2. Click Start | Shut Down | "Restart Computer in MS-DOS mode"
3. At the DOS prompt, type the commands below that are in CAPS exactly,
and press enter at the end of each line:
4. CD \WINDOWS\SYSTEM
5. DEL SKA.EXE (Note: If you get a File Not Found error, either you
are not infected or this file is located somewhere else on your
computer.)
6. DEL SKA.DLL
7. COPY WSOCK32.SKA WSOCK32.DLL
8. Answer "Yes" if it asks if you want to overwrite WSOCK32.DLL.
Explanation: WSOCK32.SKA is a backup of the original WSOCK32.DLL
made by the virus. You are replacing the modified DLL with the
original.
9. Return to Windows by typing EXIT

If upon rebooting, Windows displays an error message that it cannot
find SKA.exe, continue with the steps below. Note: Using the Registry
Editor incorrectly can lead to serious problems in Microsoft Windows
and Windows applications. Erols/RCN Internet assumes no responsibility
for mistakes or errors that result of incorrectly using the Registry
Editor.

1. Click Start | Run, then type regedit and click OK.
2. Click at the + to the left of HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE
3. Click at the + to the left of Software
4. Click at the + to the left of Microsoft
5. Click at the + to the left of Windows
6. Click at the + to the left of CurrentVersion.
7. Look under the following folders: Run, RunOnce, RunOnceEx,
RunServices, RunServicesOnce. Check for SKA.EXE and select it if it
is there. Hit the Delete key.
8. Close Regedit.

There is a file that keeps track of anyone you may have inadvertently
sent that file to. It is called: LISTE.SKA and you can find it under
C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM\LISTE.SKA
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 06:56:51 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 96 F150 shift kit?

Yes, there is a shift kit. Transgo, B&M, and some minor aftermarket companies
all make a shift kit or valve body upgrade kit for the E4OD, which is what I
believe you have. Check the transmission code on your doorjamb sticker or call
the local Ford dealer and have them translate your VIN#. That will tell you
which kit to buy. I bet you are also having problems with that 3-4 upshift..a
little shudder every now and then? The shift kit will help a little, but the
only real improvement for that is a better torque convertor. Hope I have
helped.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"

In a message dated 3/17/99 3:13:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, Bromfed1 aol.com
writes:


the
model of my trans. is, but its the 4 speed OD... >>
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 06:59:21 -0500
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - I need a muffler

>I need a muffler.
>
>I have a 85 F-150 351w. the emissions system is back to stock from the
>cats. up. it has two cats, and one muffler.
>will backpressure be the deciding factor? if so its back to stock.
>but I like the sound of a 30" thrush,
>what do you all think?
>
>loud in Ohio


with
a cat-back dual exhaust system. Borla and Flowmaster both make cat backs
and you can even add flow through, street legal cats!

Steve>>

let me clarify: I dont want to change the single exhaust. I just want to
replace the muffler with either the glass pack, stock, ect. and wanted some
opinions on differing types and how they performed. like whether the
backpressure changes in different kinds of mufflers, can they change the
performance, gas mileage, ect. ? what effect on the emissions systems if I
went to glass pack Vs stock? ect. ect.

anybody?

thanks
mike baker
pmbaker your-net.com
85 F-1504x4351WC-64BBL




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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 07:28:24 -0800
From: "Bud Dean"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '92 F250 Suspension/Trans question

Hi,

First many thanks to Jim Cannon for his advice on the rear brakes. A little
explanation and background may help before I ask my next couple of
questions, please bear with me.

I have a '92 F250 with 145,000 miles on it. It has really been a pretty
good truck. I must say however, it has suffered from some neglect. I have
been pretty good about the doing the oil. Most other things I have taken to
a shop.

I always have told them to do whatever needs to be done. They are nice guys
and all. For about the past 14 - 15 months I have been getting a check
engine light periodically. I asked them to look into it a couple of times.
Well, it kept coming back.

Recently, I had the occasion to need a heater core. It was a Friday
afternoon. Went to the auto parts store, got the heater core and a Haynes
manual. It was kind of a pain, but got it done.

Anyway, started reading the manual. Got a code tester. Discovered I needed
the Oxygen sensor and EGR Valve. Found I also needed a water pump, did
that.

Well, the last time I had the brakes done, they said I would need rotors and
drums the next time. The retaining ring for the boot fell of when I removed
the caliper. In for a penny in for a pound. In speaking with a friend of
mine, we talked about the U-joints.

Wound up ordering the shop manuals. Did the U-joints, shocks.

One of the codes I got was excessive torque converter slippage. Am taking
the truck in next week to have the tranny overhauled and a new torque
converter. While they are in there I am going to have them do the rear
seal.

Is there a better after market torque converter? And, I am contemplating a
shift kit. The fella at the tranny shop said it's only about $50 Any
recommendations as to which one?

Also, got a grease gun. When looking at the steering linkage, the rubber
boots appear to be flat as pancakes. The Haynes manual says not to over
fill. I can't seem to find a picture or an explanation of what they should
look or feel like when filled. Can someone help me out with this?

While on the subject of steering linkage, On the drivers side where the
steering arm and drag link(sic) attach to the spindle, the arm is of center
about 30 degrees. I can tell because all the other zerk fittings face
straight down, while that one is rotated in a forward direction. I know they
are used for adjustment, but shouldn't they all point straight down?

Some of the rubber appears to be deteriorated, and I don't know if they will
hold grease. So, in this event, are there any recommendations as to how to
proceed. Is there a better suspension/steering setup to install if I need to
replace all those joints anyway....

Once again, many thanks to Jim and all for your help and guidance...


Bud Dean


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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 10:28:33 -0500
From: "Kevin Reed"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - full throttle stall.

I recently purchased an 86-F150 5.0L MPI w/4spd Auto. On the way home,
after buying the truck, the throttle stuck open, and when I finally got the
truck stopped it flooded as soon as I tried starting it again. I Left it in
a parking lot until the next day and I started it up and it ran fine...
until it got warm again and the throttle stuck! Luckily I got it home.

I replaced all the wires, plugs, cap&rotor ,air filter, air breather, PCV,
Oil&Filter, Transmission Oil&Filter, Coolant, and Flushed the Rad. Next I
took off the sticking throttle body, disassembled it completely, cleaned it
thoroughly, used White Lithium on all the friction points, reassembled it,
set the TPS,idle & trani kick down cable.

The only other problem with the truck is that the manifold is leaking at the
Y pipe connection.

Now that you guys know the history of this beast, HERE'S THE PROBLEM! The
truck at idle purrs like a kitten, and it runs strong throughout the driving
range, BUT, when you open it up, it chugs, surges, starts to stall out
almost like a carburetor with a very bad hunt?

Now I'm sure it's engine related and not the trani slipping because you can
hear the engine very well with the exhaust leak at the manifold, and it
doesn't serge, it is stalling?

Anyone have any ideas, had the same problem?

Kevin Reed
Burlington, Ontario, CANADA.



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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 07:42:05 PST
From: "keith tucker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ENGINE PROBLEMS

I have an '87 XLT Lariat 5.8L 351W. I was getting fuel in my engine
oil, so I replaced a leaking carburetor. Now, the thing still runs REAL
rough. It misses all the time. Shakes when I slow to a stop. Stalls
on me too. I replaced the fuel filters, plugs, wires, cap & rotor,
distributor(rebuilt), ignition box(rebuilt), air filter, oil filter and
oil. Some of these repairs were unrelated to this particular problem,
but I wanted to mention them.
Do I have a valve problem? I'm running out of options. My mechanic is
doing a compression test for me right now. If it is a bent valve or
something, is it worth fixing? If it isn't a valve problem, then what
the heck could it be? Is it time to replace the timing chain/belt? I'm
at a loss.
I appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
Keith
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 10:31:00 -0600
From: "Wallace, Craig"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Truck tie downs

Hi gang.

Somebody asked the other day about truck tie downs. The tie downs they were
inquiring about are called "Hide-A-Hooks". They are made by Penda Corp.
You
can look at them and locate a dealer near you at the following web site:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pendacorp.com/

If I remember right, cost is about 35 dollars a pair. They are suppose to
be
much stronger than the typical tie down (about 400 lbs. handling strength).

Later,
Craig
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 10:00:48 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushings Finished (sorta)

After many, countless hours of chiseling, pounding, drilling, hammering, and
grinding I finally got the rivets out of my radius arms and replaced them
with bolts and installed my new Energy Suspension radius arm bushings. The
problem now is , I could only get one of the washers on (the rear one)
so the front bushing is setting right up against the radius arm. When I
started torquing it down, the front bushing sarted to compress against the
shoulder on the radius arm. I am worried that I might suck the bushing over
the shaft on the raduis arm if I tighten it too much. Should I take
everything back apart and use the front cup washer and leave of the rear?
There is now way I could get both on, as it is there are only 2-3 threads
sticking out of the end of the arm. Does anyone else have this problem?
Thanks.

Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje gte.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off -road. com /~2big/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194


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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 12:24:18 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Shaking speedometer needle and noise in cabin

>>>> I would like to know if anyone
here has greased the cable on an aerostar? Is it a real headache
and should be left for a long weekend or is it a 4 hour or less job? I
also don't have a grease gun and the attachment that was talked about
earlier (to get the grease down into the cable) is there an inexpensive
way of getting grease down this cable?>>>>>>

I have done a decent job of lubing speedo cables with engine oil. Get the
cable out of the vehicle. Pull out the center wire (if it comes out).
Cobble up some sort of a funnel using paper, tape, plastic, etc on one end
of the housing. Then hang the housing by one end in the garage, pour some
oil in the funnel and let it sit overnight. This method also works for
parking brake cables.
David Anderson


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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 14:06:31 -0500
From: Dave
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ENGINE PROBLEMS

Kieth:

I had a similar problem on my 86 w/4.9l . It was several vac leaks. The one
I could not find but was found by a mech. was the diaphram that controlled
the EGR. He found it by using the carb cleaner method , I had never had
this work myself but sure enough when he showed me it changed the idle.
Also a EGR that is not closing 100% will cause a stalling problem (this
happen on a friends truck not mine). You can take a piece of sheet metal
and temporarly block off the egr and see if this cures the problem. Did you
get any computer codes ?


Dave


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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 15:50:59 -0500
From: "Kevin Reed"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - ENGINE PROBLEMS

I don't think it's a vacuum leak because the truck idles very smoothly.
It's almost as if the engine isn't getting enough air or fuel when you open
up the throttle (75-100% open). I just got the truck and I don't have a
decoder yet, but your right, that is probably a very good place to start.

Could it possibly be an injector, O2 sensor, or Mass Air Flow Sensor? Would
the symptom's of a faulty one of these cause lack of fuel at open throttle?

This is a great truck, I just can't put my foot down, and I'd like to!

Are there any more suggestions?

Kevin Reed
Burlington, ONT, Canada.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Dave
> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 1999 2:07 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ENGINE PROBLEMS
>
>
> Kieth:
>
> I had a similar problem on my 86 w/4.9l . It was several vac
> leaks. The one
> I could not find but was found by a mech. was the diaphragm that
controlled
> the EGR. He found it by using the carb cleaner method , I had never had
> this work myself but sure enough when he showed me it changed the idle.
> Also a EGR that is not closing 100% will cause a stalling problem (this
> happen on a friends truck not mine). You can take a piece of sheet metal
> and temporarily block off the egr and see if this cures the
> problem. Did you
> get any computer codes ?
>
>
> Dave
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 15:06:58 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushings Finished (sorta)

Well that's just the thing, the new energy suspension bushings don't look
anything like the OEM ones. The front bushing is cone shapedin front,
instead of being flat like the OEM one is. Plus the rear bushing is
"taller", so the two bushings together are thicker than the OEM set.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Randa
To: rspasoje gte.net
Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushings Finished (sorta)


>I just did the same bushing replacement and didn't have a problem
>getting everything back on. Are you sure the bushing Energy Suspension
>gave you matches your original. I agree there isn't too much of the
>threads to grab on to but you really need those washers. How much are
>you off. Could you remove a little bit of bushing material from the
>outsides. Just enough to get the nut started and then it should compress
>a little after the nut has grabbed.
>
>Steve Randa
>
>
>
>Radoje Spasojevic wrote:
>>
>> After many, countless hours of chiseling, pounding, drilling, hammering,
and
>> grinding I finally got the rivets out of my radius arms and replaced them
>> with bolts and installed my new Energy Suspension radius arm bushings.
The
>> problem now is , I could only get one of the washers on (the rear
one)
>> so the front bushing is setting right up against the radius arm. When I
>> started torquing it down, the front bushing sarted to compress against
the
>> shoulder on the radius arm. I am worried that I might suck the bushing
over
>> the shaft on the raduis arm if I tighten it too much. Should I take
>> everything back apart and use the front cup washer and leave of the rear?
>> There is now way I could get both on, as it is there are only 2-3 threads
>> sticking out of the end of the arm. Does anyone else have this problem?
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje gte.net
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off -road. com /~2big/
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
>>
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 15:16:21 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: lmb Radius Arm Bushings Finished (sorta)

Well now that they have been compressed for moost of the day I think I will
take them off this evening and see if I can get the front washer on. I
drove around all day so far with the present set-up and there doesn't seem
to be any problems, but I would feel better having everything in place.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Hartsig, Kurt M
To: Big Bronco Mail Group ; Big Bronco List
; 80-96-list ;
'Rade Spasojevic - Everett, WA'
Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 7:04 PM
Subject: RE: lmb Radius Arm Bushings Finished (sorta)


>
>Rade.
>The torque rating is 100-120 ft lbs on those radius nuts; I just replaced
my plastic spacer on the outside bushing and torqued the nut to 120 ft lbs.
If you're without a front "cup" washer then you'll likely be pulling the TTB
backward without it.
>
>Can't you squeeze together the bushings, plastic spacer, and washers enough
to get both in place with the nut on? BTW I have a good 1/2 in of thread
after the nut is tighted onto the radius arm.
>
>Need some help? Please ask.
>
>Kurt
>
>> ----------
>> From: Radoje Spasojevic[SMTP:rspasoje gte.net]
>> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 1999 2:00 AM
>> To: Big Bronco Mail Group; Big Bronco List; 80-96-list
>> Subject: lmb Radius Arm Bushings Finished (sorta)
>>
>> After many, countless hours of chiseling, pounding, drilling, hammering,
and
>> grinding I finally got the rivets out of my radius arms and replaced them
>> with bolts and installed my new Energy Suspension radius arm bushings.
The
>> problem now is , I could only get one of the washers on (the rear
one)
>> so the front bushing is setting right up against the radius arm. When I
>> started torquing it down, the front bushing sarted to compress against
the
>> shoulder on the radius arm. I am worried that I might suck the bushing
over
>> the shaft on the raduis arm if I tighten it too much. Should I take
>> everything back apart and use the front cup washer and leave of the rear?
>> There is now way I could get both on, as it is there are only 2-3 threads
>> sticking out of the end of the arm. Does anyone else have this problem?
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje gte.net
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off -road. com /~2big/
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
>>
>>
>> ======
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bronco. com /lmb
>>
>
>=====
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bigbroncos.com

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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 20:27:05 EST
From: FoxDFox aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ENGINE PROBLEMS

does this thing have a diaghram fuel pump driven by the cam shaft? if so, you
could be pumping fuel through a leaking diaghram into your engine oil
compartment .
Dave Fox
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 15:17:14 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius Arm Bushings Finished (sorta)

I did not have this problem, but I did not use the Energy Suspension
bushings. I think they are a harder rubber and do not compress quite so
easily. You really need to use both end washers. You are right, the bushing
will quickly slide up off of the shaft and onto the arm, then you will have
a dangerous situation.

At 10:00 18/03/99 -0000, you wrote:
>After many, countless hours of chiseling, pounding, drilling, hammering, and
>grinding I finally got the rivets out of my radius arms and replaced them
>with bolts and installed my new Energy Suspension radius arm bushings. The
>problem now is , I could only get one of the washers on (the rear one)
>so the front bushing is setting right up against the radius arm. When I
>started torquing it down, the front bushing sarted to compress against the
>shoulder on the radius arm. I am worried that I might suck the bushing over
>the shaft on the raduis arm if I tighten it too much. Should I take
>everything back apart and use the front cup washer and leave of the rear?
>There is now way I could get both on, as it is there are only 2-3 threads
>sticking out of the end of the arm. Does anyone else have this problem?
>Thanks.
>
>Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje gte.net
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off -road. com /~2big/
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:03:21 EST
From: CphgnCwby1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - full throttle stall.

I would guess a fuel filter....I had one that was so damn clogged it did
exactly the same thing...and it clogged in a matter of about 2 or 3 days

Check both of them, and mainly the one that is in the resivoir
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 20:10:30 -0800 (PST)
From: shy anne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - power loss

Yesterday while driving my 83 f-150 i noticed a major power loss.
when i turned my blinker on it was real slow, and the headlights were
dim. when i turned the headlights off (when i got home) the blinker
got a little faster. It almost seems like the battery is dying
because this is what it did last time when the battery died. It
shouldn't be that though because I just bought a new battery. Any
ideas?
thanks
Shy-anne




==
- -"God forbid I shall go to any heaven where there are no horses."



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 22:14:56 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - ENGINE PROBLEMS

Faulty EGR valve will do this. If it opens too much too quickly, it is like
a big vacuum leak. But if it closes at idle, then the truck will idle ok.
Probably not O2 sensor. They tend to make you run you rich when they fail
(in my experience anyway -- others want to comment?). Check fuel rail
pressure. If low, not enough fuel will be injected when you really need it.

At 15:50 18/03/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I don't think it's a vacuum leak because the truck idles very smoothly.
>It's almost as if the engine isn't getting enough air or fuel when you open
>up the throttle (75-100% open). I just got the truck and I don't have a
>decoder yet, but your right, that is probably a very good place to start.
>
>Could it possibly be an injector, O2 sensor, or Mass Air Flow Sensor? Would
>the symptom's of a faulty one of these cause lack of fuel at open throttle?

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 22:22:51 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - full throttle stall.

GOOD ANSWER! We always forget the obvious.

At 23:03 18/03/99 EST, you wrote:
>I would guess a fuel filter....I had one that was so damn clogged it did
>exactly the same thing...and it clogged in a matter of about 2 or 3 days
>

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:28:37 -0500
From: "Steve"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - power loss

shy anne wrote:

>Yesterday while driving my 83 f-150 i noticed a major power loss.
>when i turned my blinker on it was real slow, and the headlights were
>dim. when i turned the headlights off (when i got home) the blinker
>got a little faster. It almost seems like the battery is dying
>because this is what it did last time when the battery died. It
>shouldn't be that though because I just bought a new battery. Any
>ideas?


The first thing I would check is the altenator. If one side of the alt
gives out, then all sorts of crazy things happen including what you
described above. It should not take long to get it checked, however, my
mechanic found a "bad" wire and some worn brushes so rebuilt the alt. Cost
me about 50 bucks and I could have bought a replacement for $60 (rebuilt)
and put it on myself.

Also, check to make sure your alt belt is tight enough. Sometimes the belt
will slip (without the usual squeel) and won't turn the alt fast enough to
charge the battery. Everything starts to go dim and after about 250 miles
it quits altogether.

Well, happy hunting, (I hate electrical problems)

Steve

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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 22:22:05 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - power loss

It might not be the battery, it could be the alternator. But you are right,
there is an electrical power loss and if you keep driving it, especially
with the lights on, you will soon have a dead battery.

Have the charging system checked by someone who knows what they are doing.

At 20:10 18/03/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Yesterday while driving my 83 f-150 i noticed a major power loss.
>when i turned my blinker on it was real slow, and the headlights were
>dim. when i turned the headlights off (when i got home) the blinker
>got a little faster. It almost seems like the battery is dying
>because this is what it did last time when the battery died. It
>shouldn't be that though because I just bought a new battery. Any
>ideas?
>thanks

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 22:32:36 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - power loss

Have your alternator checked and your battery. It's possible to buy a
brand-new batteryand have it go bad. Most parts stores can check your
electrical output.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:shy anne [SMTP:jme_shy yahoo.com]
> Sent:Thursday, March 18, 1999 10:11 PM
> To:ford maillist
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - power loss
>
> Yesterday while driving my 83 f-150 i noticed a major power loss.
> when i turned my blinker on it was real slow, and the headlights were
> dim. when i turned the headlights off (when i got home) the blinker
> got a little faster. It almost seems like the battery is dying
> because this is what it did last time when the battery died. It
> shouldn't be that though because I just bought a new battery. Any
> ideas?
> thanks
> Shy-anne
>
>
>
>
> ==
> -"God forbid I shall go to any heaven where there are no horses."
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> >
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 20:35:15 -0800
From: bob chaytor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - PCV BREATHER SLUDGE CURE

HI ALL
I've been having severe sludge coming from my pvc breather and rear seal
oil leakage similar to what you would expect from a bad pvc valve . Well
after trying different things expecting the worse and finding no causes
I tried something kind of ,I thought silly. I removed that plastic tube
that goes from the valve cover to the air cleaner, and simply stuffed a
filter in to the spigot of the filler neck.
Well a week later no sludge at all. I think what is happening is the
tube is filling with condensation and any oil mist that gets in is then
converted to sludge.
When I removed the valve covers before they were virtually clean ,
which led me to thinking of the tube.
IT WORKS FOR ME
88 F150 302 EFI

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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:40:45 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '92 F250 Suspension/Trans question

In a message dated 3/18/99 10:31:39 AM Eastern Standard Time, buddean home.com
writes:


shift kit. The fella at the tranny shop said it's only about $50 Any
recommendations as to which one?
>>
Bud,
Well if you want to return to the stock stall and just want a better
convertor, I would call ART CARR. They were great with me and the customer
service they provide is awesome. The direct line number for the guy I dealt
with is 1-775-328-1353, his name is David. Just tell him Wayne that just did
the build up on the 4R70W told you to call, he should remember. I know for a
higher stall convertor it would have cost me around $400 bucks, so the stock
replacement should only be around $250 and WELL worth the extra few coins. On
the shift kit, I would go with the Transgo kits. It is a complete valve body
rebuild and reconfigure kit that has all the springs, check balls and such.
David will try to get you to buy the Art Carr kit, DON'T. Of all the parts I
ordered, I was only unhappy with their shift kit. It didn't have NEAR the....


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