80-96-list-digest Sunday, March 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number 066



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 power windows
FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: driveline vibration
Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers
Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers
RE: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers
RE: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers
Re: FTE 80-96 - Floor Boards ( sorry)
Re: FTE 80-96 - HEATER CONTROL
Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers
Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 F150 rear brakes
Re: FTE 80-96 - Lund Sunvisor Install '96 F350 CC
FTE 80-96 - 86 F150 ECU Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers
Re: FTE 80-96 - ANTI-LOCK LITE
FTE 80-96 - Parts chimps
Re: FTE 80-96 - Parts chimps
Re: FTE 80-96 - Parts chimps
Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers
FTE 80-96 - Vin Decoder
Re: FTE 80-96 - Parts chimps
FTE 80-96 - F-150 Power Door Lock Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers
Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers
FTE 80-96 - F-150 Brakes, Uneven Pad Wear?
FTE 80-96 - Had Enough Of The E4OD

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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 08:50:35 -0600
From: "Chuck"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 power windows

>
> I have a '96 F150 with power windows.
> A few days ago the windows refused to go down. Then shortly after that
> the started working OK.
> Yesterday I ran the windows down and drove a while. Now they wont go up.
> I tried numerous times and checked the fuse and that power is getting as
> far as the fuse.

I just had the same problem with my '92, it kept getting weaker and weaker
and sticking and it turned out to be the motor ($50) if it is, you'll need a
1/4 drill bit to drill out the old rivets (4ea), you'll need 4 small bolts
w/locking nuts ($2). But most of all, check all of your wiring first.

Chuck

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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 08:50:36 -0600
From: "Chuck"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers

I am about to travel across the US with a trailer, then later purchase a
boat. People have been telling me that a transmission cooler would be a
smart investment/prevention part. I have an E4OD in a '92 F150.

any views on this?

Chuck.

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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 09:57:56 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: driveline vibration

In a message dated 3/5/99 9:21:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, POSL chevron.com
writes:

>
Walt,
ROFLMAO, I would guess you had better check the personal set if you don't
check the Driveline set huh?
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside Page
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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 10:03:15 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers

i had one installed on my rebuilt tranny and i dont regret it at all the
tranny im told has a defect in the design that the tailshaft doesnt have
enough cool fluid flow which promotes failure the external cooler assists
with this.. the only thing i notice is i have to let the truck idle for a few
minutes to let the fluid get flowin in the mornin with the cooler.. but i tow
all the time and im glad i put one in
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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 10:06:57 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers

In a message dated 3/6/99 9:55:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, dtra2 ionet.net
writes:


boat. People have been telling me that a transmission cooler would be a
smart investment/prevention part. I have an E4OD in a '92 F150.

Any views on this?

Chuck,
By God yes. That would be one of the cheapest but most intelligent decision
you could make. The tranny cooler could save your tranny in the long run.
Especially with the E4OD, which is problematic anyway, you need to keep that
one as cool as possible. Just make sure you get a good aftermarket cooler.
Don't go with the stock ones Ford offers. Having just been through all this
with my 4R70W tranny, I can tell you that the one offered on the trucks was
not even close to the cooling capacity our larger trucks needed.
My .02,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside Page
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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 09:17:21 -0600
From: "Chuck"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers

> i had one installed on my rebuilt tranny and i dont regret it at all the
> tranny im told has a defect in the design that the tailshaft doesnt have
> enough cool fluid flow which promotes failure the external cooler assists
> with this..

is this flaw in the E4OD?

the only thing i notice is i have to let the truck idle for a
> few
> minutes to let the fluid get flowin in the mornin with the cooler.. but
> i tow
> all the time and im glad i put one in

how large of a cooler should I have

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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 09:19:36 -0600
From: "Chuck"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers

> Any views on this?
>
> Chuck,
> By God yes. That would be one of the cheapest but most intelligent
decision
> you could make. The tranny cooler could save your tranny in the long run.
> Especially with the E4OD, which is problematic anyway, you need to keep
> that
> one as cool as possible. Just make sure you get a good aftermarket cooler.

can you give me a name brand and/or where to get one

Chuck

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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 09:37:41 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Floor Boards ( sorry)

The last time I needed to repair a rusted out floor, I went to a sheet
metal shop and bought a scrap piece of galvenized sheet metal from them
that was way bigger than the hole, trimmed the edges to fit space it had to
go into, and installed it over the rusted out section. Before attaching
with sheet metal screws I put liberal coat of cold roof patch on floor
where sheet metal goes over it. and then drilled holes/screwed in screws
all around the edges. Worked well. Carpet covered it all up, no one knew I
had done it.

At 00:22 05/03/99 -0600, you wrote:
>I have an 86' Bronco.... the floor boards in the front are rusted out,
>where can I find new ones?
>
>Matt Banevich
>
>89' Bronco II 2.9L-5 Speed
>
>86' Bronco 4.9L- 4 speed
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>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 10:02:21 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - HEATER CONTROL

I have done to my truck exactly what Scott asked about in his original
post, and for exactly the same reason. (I first did the opposite on my '73
LTD because that car did NOT run the a/c compressor when selector was on
"defrost" and sometimes I WANTED it on to help defog the thing.) It is easy
to put a switch on the compressor clutch in series with the factory switch
so that YOU control when you run the compressor or not. As long as you do
not have dual fuel tanks, this is a very easy thing to do:

1. Remove vent-A/C-heater control unit from dash.

2. Buy a nice toggle switch from auto part store and drill hole in front of
control unit over on the right (where dual fuel tank selector knob would be
if you had one) and install switch.

3. Find wires going to factory switch on top back of vent-A/C-heater
control unit that runs the compressor clutch. Cut either one and splice in
a short bit of wire up to the switch you just added to front of unit.
Solder connections or use really high quality connectors. Truck vibrations
shape everything apart (sometimes even factory connectors).

4. Put it all back in the instrument panel and you're done. Leave switch
"ON" most of the time to give you normal factory operation, then switch it
off when you decide compressor is not required. It's your choice.

If you have dual tanks, you need to find another place to put the switch
and fish the wire up to the A/C control unit from the switch. Not real
hard, but the other deal is so easy...

At 21:04 04/03/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>"Harris, Scott" wrote:
>>
>> I wanted to do this too to save the compressor until someone told me that
>> when you run on "defrost", you want drier air to assist in defrosting the
>> windows. When my compressor went out it was hell trying to get the windows
>> defogged when it was rainy or humid.
>
>You know, I don't remember having that much trouble defrosting windows
>before they came up with this smart idea to use the AC to dry the air.
>Amd I spent some time in very cold country, too. Also, the heater and
>defroster seem to work fine in vehicles that do not have AC. I would
>like very much to have control of my heater, defroster and AC back.

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 09:33:26 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers

Chuck-
I think you got your answer to this one. Do it. (I have.)

Please turn the "user requests notification of reciept" off on your notes.
Thanks.

At 08:50 06/03/99 -0600, you wrote:
>I am about to travel across the US with a trailer, then later purchase a
>boat. People have been telling me that a transmission cooler would be a
>smart investment/prevention part. I have an E4OD in a '92 F150.
>
>any views on this?
>
>Chuck.
>
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>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 09:47:15 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 F150 rear brakes

A dealer shop or a very good brake shop (no bozo chain shops) can put a
pressure guage on your rear brake line and tell you if the pressure is up
to spec.

Have you replaced shoes back there? Long life linings are slightly harder
and do not have as high coefficient of friction as slightly softer linings
(which wear a bit faster -- but stop better). Also, some no name, cheap
linings do not grip as well the higher-price ones.

If linings are really new, they may not have fully seated yet and achieved
100% contact with the entire drum inside. Unless you grind the shoes to
match the arc of the drum (which I don't bother with anymore -- used to do
it on every job) it takes some time for the high spots to wear down to
allow the lower spot to contact the drum.

Have you replaced the flexible brake hose from frame to rear axel?
Sometimes they collapse inside but look fine on the outside.

Is it possible that some oil has leaked out of the rear axel and onto these
shoes? Are the linings really smooth (glazed over)? Roughen up a bit with
sandpaper and try it again. Good luck

At 05:54 05/03/99 -0800, you wrote:
>My '86 F150 rear brakes do not seem to be doing much. With the rear
>jacked up and the engine at idle in gear the rear wheels will still
>rotate when the brakes are applied unless I really push on the pedal. I
>have replaced everything from the booster to the rear cylinders
>(including the proportioning valve) without any change in effectiveness.
>Was there a service bulletin or something on this problem that anyone
>knows about? My truck is a super cab with a towing package and I am
>thinking that I may need to use the larger slave cylinders available in
>the rear, mine are 15/16 and I can get 1" at the local parts store.
>

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 13:57:45 EST
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Lund Sunvisor Install '96 F350 CC

I had one put on my 97 F250. I liked it. It had the lights and it didn't
have any water
leaks. Call around to places that install accessories. I paid this place 25
bucks if my
memory doesn't fail me.

brian
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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 11:01:50 -0800
From: "Jonathan Freeman"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 86 F150 ECU Problem

My 86 F150 is putting out anywhere from .03 to 2.8 v at the injectors. I'm
thinking this is the problem to it's not starting, and occasional poppin
trying to start.

I believe it's the ECU or a voltage regulator along the way. Does anyone
know where the ECU is on this truck? The Chilton's manual talks about it,
just not where it is!

Any other ideas?

- -Jonathan Freeman
1991 Storm Autocrosser - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.stormowners.com
1986 Ford F150 - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.f150 online. com


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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 15:04:21 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers

the cooler i got allows me to cool towing 18000 lbs and i got it at my local
transmission shop that did my rebuild.. theyre sold at almost any good auto
parts store or sccessory place. I would go to a tranny shop or the local U
Haul and tell them what you plan on haulin where and let them recommend the
cooler.. they have more experience than i do with these things.. i use my
truck for work and i wanted the bigger cooler cause i wind up towing real
heavy things from time to time
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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 15:39:07 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ANTI-LOCK LITE

> your truck does have anti locks in the rear brakes

Ok, as I've made it clear, I'm just chock full of useless and incorrect
information. :)
So why is it that only my back end that locks up under hard braking?
It's not exactly something that I subject myself or my truck to frequently,
but
it's something I've noticed. If the anti-lock in the rear is supposed to
compensate for the lightness of the rear, I would think that it's not
functioning
correctly.
So far as I can tell I've only ever felt it kick in on the front wheels.
But then again, I'm probably wrong about that too... ;)

- -Mike

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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 18:34:08 -0500
From: Paul
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Parts chimps

What really gripes me about the modern auto parts stores is the "new"
way of selling parts.
What I mean is that, in the 60/70s plus, one could walk into a store, go
to the (for example) shock absorber section, pick up the pieces in your
greasy hands, match it up, etc...the need for a competent parts chimp
was minimal.
NOW...if you want nearly anything, you have to go through the "year,
model, air?, towing package?..." crap just to find out what you need.
I liked it better when the parts catalogue was hooked on the racks next
to the items.
This really bugs me because I have 3 50s era pickups with modern
drivetrains, and these arswipes have no standby plan. Ever try to get a
brake hose for a front brake on a Volare front end in a 55 panel truck?
How the hell do I know what year the Volare was?
I would pay them a surcharge to just let me look up the part myself.

Regards, Paul
Now, I feel better...thanks.
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 15:58:38 PST
From: "barry mitchell"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Parts chimps

Yeah, and a lot of the parts chimps wouldn't know the difference between
a brake pad and an air filter! I wonder if they would try to look up
muffler bearings

______________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 19:13:34 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Parts chimps

well guys i had one lookin up a float bearing on a carbuerator system once..
drove him nuts for a week tryin to get the part
Just for the heck of it though some Pep Boys have computers that allw you to
do the lookup ( as well as the rack of books) on your own.. unfortunately the
parts chimp has to look behind the counter for the part if you find it in the
book
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 19:14:50 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers

Within the next few years, Ford is adding external thermostatically
controlled coolers to all of its transmissions and eliminating the
in-radiator heat exchanger. The Crown Vics, Grand Marquis, and Town Cars
have them now. If Ford is willing to add $30 to the cost of each vehicle,
there must be a reason.

Steve

Chuck wrote:

> I am about to travel across the US with a trailer, then later purchase a
> boat. People have been telling me that a transmission cooler would be a
> smart investment/prevention part. I have an E4OD in a '92 F150.
>
> any views on this?
>
> Chuck.
>
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 18:26:52 -0600
From: "Charles W. Pickle"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Vin Decoder

I have just subscribed to this chat service and am looking to find a vin
decoder for 96 Ford Van. I am considering purchasing one and need to know the
what rear-end it has. I have been told in the past that this info is
contained in the vin number. Any help or direction is appreciated.
Charlie

S Spaulding wrote:

> Within the next few years, Ford is adding external thermostatically
> controlled coolers to all of its transmissions and eliminating the
> in-radiator heat exchanger. The Crown Vics, Grand Marquis, and Town Cars
> have them now. If Ford is willing to add $30 to the cost of each vehicle,
> there must be a reason.
>
> Steve
>
> Chuck wrote:
>
> > I am about to travel across the US with a trailer, then later purchase a
> > boat. People have been telling me that a transmission cooler would be a
> > smart investment/prevention part. I have an E4OD in a '92 F150.
> >
> > any views on this?
> >
> > Chuck.
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 18:29:53 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Parts chimps

After doing business at the same auto parts store for 6 years now, they DO
let me go look up my own stuff. I know how to work their computer as well
as they do. And of course I know how to look stuff up in the books they
have behind the counter. One of the counter guys there told me I spent more
time in their shop than he does! (I told him I have a small fleet to
maintain.) Do business with the same people over and over and they will
work with you. The manager there does all kinds of favors for me that he
would not do for someone he never saw before.

At 18:34 06/03/99 -0500, you wrote:
>What really gripes me about the modern auto parts stores is the "new"
>way of selling parts.

>I would pay them a surcharge to just let me look up the part myself.

>Regards, Paul
>Now, I feel better...thanks.

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 00:06:14 -0600
From: "Shawn & Jennifer Clark"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Power Door Lock Problems

I'm hoping someone can offer some guidance on the following problem.
I have a 1991 F-150 which has a sticky driver's side lock. The problem
appeared this Fall rather suddenly and has not gone away. I have
lubricated the lock with graphite but this seems to make little difference.
The action is hard to turn with key or by pulling or pushing the knob.
The power lock button rarely works now (and "protests" when it does.) The
passenger side works fine in all three modes (key, manual, power). Today I
pulled the inside panel off to work on it, but made little progress. I
lubricated everything, but this did not seem to help. Finally, I pulled
the torn rubber boot off of the actuator and sprayed penetrant down it's
shaft. This helped some, since the power lock began to work about 75% of
the time. I'm still uncertain as to what is making it stick, but I suspect
the actuator itself is binding. When moving the rod by hand it sometimes
is difficult to get moving. Anyone seen this same problem before? If so,
how do you get the actuator out? I could not find any screws or bolts to
remove, and was unable to pop it out. And I have no idea how to release
the push rod from the door latch assembly. There are clear signs that
someone had worked in the door in the past (I've had the truck for 18
months). My guess is that they replaced the poorly designed OEM power
window gears--as I had to do last year on the passenger side.

Thanks in advance,

Shawn
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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 01:18:27 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers

I have a 97 lincoln towncar with 32k miles and I had a shudder when shifting
into over drive. Ford changed the transmission fluid with synthetic, and
installed a heavy duty transmission cooler.They said that they were having
problems with the transmissions so they had to modify the system. Install a
cooler if you dont have one. It will save your transmission. I once had a 84
cadillac stretch limo for my business I added a transmission cooler at 58k
miles and needless to say I sold that car with 186k on it and the transmission
was still going strong.Its a smart and cheap investment.

Joe
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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 01:24:09 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Coolers

Ok, I have a question about how you guys installed your transmission coolers.
Did you use the trans cooler and the radiator trans cooler? Or did you bypass
the radiator cooler and just hook up the transmission cooler??

Joe
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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 00:47:55 -0600
From: "Shawn & Jennifer Clark"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Brakes, Uneven Pad Wear?

Hi-

I've had a '91 F-150 for about 18 months. It was in better mechanical
shape and better maintained than a dozen other Fords I drove, but it still
seems to be a maintenance hog. The latest is the inboard passenger side
front brake pad. It wore down to metal on me (actually the wife was
driving it when the trouble began...) Strange thing is the driver's side
still has a reasonable amount of pad left. Also, both sides still have
about 1/2 pad left on the outboard side. Is this a normal wear pattern on
Fords? My Nissan and Honda pads both wear pretty evenly (side to side,
inboard vs. outboard). I had noticed that the truck was starting to pull
slightly to one side under heavy braking a few months before...but I don't
recall the direction of the pull. Other problems with the truck distracted
me from checking up on a system that was at least functioning. So, as
usual, the truck remains parked until I get time to fix it. I should count
my blessings, that darned Ford keeps stranding me on the highway...throttle
cable one time (design flaw), electrical problems that killed a battery
next...then there was the air conditioning pressure switch that went out on
a trip during a 105 degree day. I used to think Fix Or Repair Daily was
said in jest, now I'm beginning to wonder.

Shawn Clark
sd&jkclark tyler.net


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Date: Sun, 07 Mar 1999 03:23:33 -0500
From: Dave Zarnesky
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Had Enough Of The E4OD

Hi Listers,
I have a 96 F250HD EC 460 and my intentions are to....


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