80-96-list-digest Saturday, March 6 1999 Volume 03 : Number 065



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - '86 F150 rear brakes
FTE 80-96 - Re: A friend need help
FTE 80-96 - Clutch pedal spring & bracket
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clutch pedal spring & bracket
Re: FTE 80-96 - incompetent partspeople
FTE 80-96 - Re: HEATER CONTROL
FTE 80-96 - Parking lot repairs, was: Fuel Filter Removal
Re: FTE 80-96 - Parking lot repairs, was: Fuel Filter Removal
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: HEATER CONTROL
RE: FTE 80-96 - Clutch pedal spring & bracket
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clutch pedal spring & bracket
FTE 80-96 - RE: Lean Distributor?
FTE 80-96 - RE: driveline vibration
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Lean Distributor?

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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 05:54:40 -0800
From: johnhfleming juno.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '86 F150 rear brakes

My '86 F150 rear brakes do not seem to be doing much. With the rear
jacked up and the engine at idle in gear the rear wheels will still
rotate when the brakes are applied unless I really push on the pedal. I
have replaced everything from the booster to the rear cylinders
(including the proportioning valve) without any change in effectiveness.
Was there a service bulletin or something on this problem that anyone
knows about? My truck is a super cab with a towing package and I am
thinking that I may need to use the larger slave cylinders available in
the rear, mine are 15/16 and I can get 1" at the local parts store.

I am saving a lot of money on rear shoes though :)

Also, I just bought the EEC-IV diagnostic/ troubleshooting software off
the Web. What a great source of data. Pinouts, readings and all kinds of
good info on testing sensors, codes etc. I can't remember the address off
hand but if anyone wants it I will scare it up.

Thanks

John.

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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 05:58:06 -0800 (PST)
From: rokkinhorse webtv.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: A friend need help

Have you tried retrieving the coides from the EEC (OBD-II) to confirm
the direction you have been going on the repairs already done? What
codes are present? If the codes are simply 11 or 111, I'd suspect a
plugged catalytic convertor. If you guys get a "engine running rich"
code,check the fuel pressure regulator(with the port on the fuel
rail),EGR (to make sure it is coming off after warm-up) and the sensors
related to the EGR to be sure they are functioning. Just a few ideas.

Randy Goolsby-94 Bronco EB/85 F250 4x4

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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 10:08:32 -0500
From: John DeVincentis
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Clutch pedal spring & bracket

I have a 1992 Ford F150 with a standard transmission.
Last night as I was driving home, I pressed on the clutch and
a spring fell down to the floor from under the dash board.
When I got home I found out that part of the bracket that holds the
clutch spring
had broken. As I looked at the design of the bracket, especially the
arm/part that holds the clutch spring, I see that it is a very "weak"
design.
I called the dealer and the part costs ~ $280.
Any suggestions on how to fix it?
It could be welded back on, but there isn't much room to work and there
are lots of wires that could be damaged during welding.
I think I will try to make a new bracket for the clutch spring and bolt
it
onto the existing bracket.
To R & R the whole bracket looks like a tough job....

Thanks for any help,
John Dee

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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 09:51:16 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clutch pedal spring & bracket

John DeVincentis wrote:

> I have a 1992 Ford F150 with a standard transmission.
> Last night as I was driving home, I pressed on the clutch and
> a spring fell down to the floor from under the dash board.
> When I got home I found out that part of the bracket that holds the
> clutch spring
> had broken. As I looked at the design of the bracket, especially the
> arm/part that holds the clutch spring, I see that it is a very "weak"
> design.

John,
Is the bracket a bolt up ? The reason I am asking is that if
everything is bolted and not welded, then I would call around
at junkyards and go pull the assembly off another, which would
be a heck of a lot cheaper I am sure. Also, while you are calling
check and see if they have any Broncos. I'd bet you could probably
pull one off a late model Bronco('92-'96) if you can't find any F-150s,
but you will have to check that for yourself to make sure its the same.
Just my usual $0.000002.
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-)
:-))


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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 09:23:06 -0800
From: bill gibson
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - incompetent partspeople

S Spaulding wrote:
>
> Unfortunately, the problem isn't always the counterman. Ford has a
> habit of changing designs mid-year, and often doesn't document them. My
> truck is a '91, built in November of 1990. I have learned to ask
> countermen to look at MY90 parts listings as well, and compare them. If
> they are different numbers, then I have to figure out which part to buy.
> I am amazed at how many 1990 parts my truck has.
>
> In a lot of cases, though, you are correct: the countermen suck.
>
> Steve
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As an additional comment on this , I think these counter people try to do a good job.
They lack enough training to get the job done.
I spend a lot more money on parts for farm machinery.Even on really complex machines like
combines with all the monitors & computers , belt sizes bearings etc they almost NEVER get it
wrong.I also use a couple of tractors that were built in the late 50's and those same partsmen
can find everything available in minutes .Special order parts never have freight charged against
them.
On occasion I've been in a bind for time or if they made a mistake they will run the
parts out to me (25 miles).Ford (this dealership anyway)charge me the damn freight and they would
never consider delivering the correct parts even if it was their fault .
Continuing the saga of the wiper motor---They told me that their policy was not to take
return on electrical items but as a favor to me they would trade it for another unit (I had
already bought & installed one from a jobber in the city a 100 mile round trip).Surprisingly I
kept enough of my temper not to kill anyone .I asked to see the manager & was told he was away &
wouldn't be back till next tuesday.
I took the damn motor (from ford)back to the jobber and since it was rebuilt in the same
place they gave me my money back.Guess who gets my business on vehicle parts ?
Anyhow the day wasn't a total write-off because the motivation is now there to become a
real pain in the ass to these ford guys.The ford 1-800 number was no help , they said that these
dealerships are private companies and all they can do is pass on my complaint to "head office".
We have a provincial organization called Consumer & Corporate Affairs and they will help
me take my complaint to the people who count.First step was register a complaint with the better
business bureau.I'm also drafting a letter for the manager & owner of the dealership with copies
to Ford Canada plus the appropriate regional offices.
It will be some work but maybe it'll be worth it .

More Later
Bill Gibson
Tees , Alberta , Canada
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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 09:47:41 -0800
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: HEATER CONTROL

On Thu, 04 Mar 1999, Paul Laughlin wrote:
>
> You know, I don't remember having that much trouble defrosting windows
> before they came up with this smart idea to use the AC to dry the air.
> Amd I spent some time in very cold country, too. Also, the heater and
> defroster seem to work fine in vehicles that do not have AC. I would
> like very much to have control of my heater, defroster and AC back.

I think it must be designed into the system because on my '86 F-250 it
also causes me greif when it is raining. When I drive by myself it is
all right, but when someone else is in the truck it fogs up real quick
unless I open up the back window and turn the fan on "high"...then you
can't hear yourself think.

Birken
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 10:54:38 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Parking lot repairs, was: Fuel Filter Removal

>From: Ken Woods
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt
>
>I know this probably NOT what you wanted to hear, but..........

Yo Ken:

Now you tell me....

>> Yesterday afternoon, I replaced the alternator in my F250
>> in less than an hour.
>
>Really?? Me too.
>Course, I did mine in the parking lot of the auto parts
>store, while it was snowing, with no jacket. I was done
>and back in the truck in 10 mins.

You are fast w/ the wrench! Fortunately, I did my alternator leisurely in the
driveway at home before it started snowing ;-).

A few years ago, I replaced the M-block's fuel pump (old fashioned mechanical
style) in a parts store parking lot while a nasty storm blew in. I had to cut
off the hard line because the flare nut was frozen in the old pump and I
shredded it w/ an open end wrench, cut and bend a new hard line to fit, and
double-flare it. Fuel pump cost about $12 and I spent another $60 on tubing and
tools that I didn't have w/ me (flare nut wrench, tube cutter, double flare
tool, etc.).

When I left the house that morning, the temp was in the low 60s, so I had no
jacket either. By the time I was finished, there was 6 inches of snow on the
ground and I had ruined the white dress shirt I was wearing when the whole
incident started on the way to work. Sure am glad I carry a tarp (threw it over
the hood to keep the snow off) and have a 12V outlet under the hood (came in
handy for the handheld spot/trouble light).

Only a Ford truck is worth all that. If it was a Honda, I'd have just pulled
out the .45 and put it out of its misery.

Dave R (M-block devotee)
(now w/ spare fuel pump and flare nut wrench in tool box)


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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 10:54:59 -0800
From: Larry
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Parking lot repairs, was: Fuel Filter Removal

Dave Resch wrote:

> Only a Ford truck is worth all that. If it was a Honda, I'd have just pulled
> out the .45 and put it out of its misery.
>
> Dave R (M-block devotee)
> (now w/ spare fuel pump and flare nut wrench in tool box)
>

I have an '89 Honda Accord and a '91 F150 with a 351. I love them both, and neither
has given me any trouble. I bought the Honda new and it's been making the drive from
Boulder Creek to San Jose (16 miles of mountain road and 14 of freeway) every day
for 10 years. I may put it out to pasture when it hits 250,000 miles, but a car that
reliable deserves better than a bullet to put it out of it's misery. :-)
- --
-=Larry=-

ldidier att.net

'89 Honda Accord
'89 Honda Prelude
'91 F150 Long bed, extended cab, 351, XLT Lariat


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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 11:55:10 -0800
From: Paul Laughlin
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: HEATER CONTROL

Vogt Family wrote:

> I think it must be designed into the system because on my '86 F-250 it
> also causes me greif when it is raining. When I drive by myself it is
> all right, but when someone else is in the truck it fogs up real quick
> unless I open up the back window and turn the fan on "high"...then you
> can't hear yourself think.

When I was talking about the systems working better in th old days, I
was talking about in the '60s and '70s.
In fact, one of the best ever heating systems in an automobile was the
"Weather Eye" heater in the Nash cars. It was the first fresh air
heater. Virtually all vehicles built these days have this setup to use
the AC to dry the air while defrosting and it is definitely designed
into the system. Those systems do not use enough fresh air through the
defrosting system and so require the AC drying. I have a car that has a
setting for both panel and floor air. The fool thing is worthless since
it blows hot air from the floor outlet and cold air from the panel
outlets. And they alternate. Not a Ford by the way. I guess that we
have to pretty much live with the stupid way these engineers design
these things.
Paul in Portland OR
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 14:03:46 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Clutch pedal spring & bracket

Go to a salvage yard! It would be easier to beef up an unbroken one anyway.

Anyone know what years he needs to look for that will fit?

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From:John DeVincentis [SMTP:jdev gis.net]
Sent:Friday, March 05, 1999 8:09 AM
To:Ford
Subject:FTE 80-96 - Clutch pedal spring & bracket

I have a 1992 Ford F150 with a standard transmission.
Last night as I was driving home, I pressed on the clutch and
a spring fell down to the floor from under the dash board.
When I got home I found out that part of the bracket that holds the
clutch spring
had broken. As I looked at the design of the bracket, especially the
arm/part that holds the clutch spring, I see that it is a very
"weak"
design.
I called the dealer and the part costs ~ $280.
Any suggestions on how to fix it?
It could be welded back on, but there isn't much room to work and
there
are lots of wires that could be damaged during welding.
I think I will try to make a new bracket for the clutch spring and
bolt
it
onto the existing bracket.
To R & R the whole bracket looks like a tough job....

Thanks for any help,
John De
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 17:05:55 EST
From: STEPSI3742 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clutch pedal spring & bracket

John Dee,
The same thing happened to my truck. I thought that the piece that broke was
a piece of the firewall. Anyway I'm going to make a part that will bolt to the
existing broken piece in the firewall.

TJ L.
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 18:11:40 -0800
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Lean Distributor?

Jim, What do you mean by..........

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 15:21:37 -0800
From: Jim Cullen
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E-150 Van Lugging Problems
[snip]
Had cranked the distributor as far over as it would
go to the lean side.?
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 18:16:27 -0800
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: driveline vibration

FYI...For those of you with a driveline vibration. Please check the nuts
that hold your u-joints in place. I had reason recently to take the
driveshaft out of my truck and noticed that ALL FOUR nuts were hand tight,
in fact one was loose. I had replaced the u-joints about 2 years ago and
forgot to use Locktight on them. I know I cinched them down good and tight
when I installed them. So check those nuts! Walt
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 21:25:10 EST....


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