80-96-list-digest Friday, March 5 1999 Volume 03 : Number 064



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Knock Sensor(aka PITA)
Re: FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft
RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 power windows
Re: FTE 80-96 - ANTI-LOCK LITE
RE: FTE 80-96 - ANTI-LOCK LITE
FTE 80-96 - One more try.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Knock Sensor(aka PITA)
Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 power windows
Re: FTE 80-96 - tranny swaps
RE: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?
RE: FTE 80-96 - incompetent partspeople
RE: FTE 80-96 - incompetent partspeople
Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt
Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt
RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt
Re: FTE 80-96 - incompetent partspeople
FTE 80-96 - A friend needs help!
Re: FTE 80-96 - A friend needs help!
FTE 80-96 - F150 Power Windows
Re: FTE 80-96 - ANTI-LOCK LITE
FTE 80-96 - HEATER CONTROL
RE: FTE 80-96 - HEATER CONTROL
Re: FTE 80-96 - HEATER CONTROL
Re: FTE 80-96 - HEATER CONTROL
Re: FTE 80-96 - HEATER CONTROL
FTE 80-96 - Floor Boards ( sorry)

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 07:02:32 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Knock Sensor(aka PITA)

Well, to let you all know I got my truck back yesterday afternoon. It feels
much stronger and shifts 200% better. I had to replace the knock sensor before
I could really get in it, to see if a difference was made. I cannot believe
that Ford, after so many years of putting them in the easiest access points,
would BURY the KS behind the intake manifold on the top of the block. I fought
for 3 Hours to get at this thing and get it replaced. I remember my Stang 5.0
had the KS under the manifold on the drives side. Just be warned..if your
knock sensor ever goes....be ready to
A. Pull the upper intake to get to it, or
B. Know someone that is "really skinny" that can get their arms in behind the
upper to get to it. I know that there is NO unearthly way I could've gotten my
forearms even close to fitting around that thing...much less a bicep.

Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material" (Back in Service) =)
Wayne's Flareside Page
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 04:29:55 PST
From: "Jim Kudulis"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft

Another problem with the warrantees is that the dealer will try everyway
under the sun to weasel out from the coverage. I purchased one for my wifes
Blazer. One day it just quit period. The warratee says it covers ALL
malfunctions that cause the vehicle to be inoperative. The problem was the
master fuse that ran the main computer. $68 to replace the fuse and I was
told fuses are not covered. Fuses are not specifically excluded in the
contract. I called the warrantee provider no help. Towing $55 fuse $68.
Another time the U joint went out. Very obvious. Rental car is included.
When I called late in the day they did not have a chance to work on it.
They weren't going to provide her a car because they had not determined that
the problem was a warrantee item. I'll take my chances from now on with
the original warantee.
Jim Kudulis




On Wed, 03 Mar 1999 22:23:56 -0600, Jim Cannon wrote:

> I had the same experience with my '91 Voyager. I had repairs done on the
> vehicle that cost at least twice what I paid for the warantee.
Compressor,
> rods, pistons, rings, expansion valves, power steering pump, struts...
> There were probably other things, but I forget! (there were so many). The
> only thing that did not die (for me) was the A604 tranny, and I KNOW that
> thing is a piece of junk. It only held together for me for 95 k miles
> because I changed the fluid every 12-16 months.
>
>
> I'm glad Fords are so much more reliable.
>
>
> At 20:08 02/03/99 EST, you wrote:
> >i totally disagree i bought a 1993 Voyager for my wife with about 49K
> on it
> >and in and bought an extended warranty.. since the inception of the
warranty
> >ive had replaced two transmissions, struts, axels, an air conditioner
> >compressor, water pump, and an evaporator.. for the $1200 i spent on the
GE
> >capital warranty ( and after the second tranny went i immediately
traded
> the
> >van in) less the $600 for the unused portion for the 18 months of
warranty i
> >wouldnt need so Hell i wouldnt buy a vehicle from a dealer without
one!!!
> >mine paid for itself over five times!! in 18 months i got rid of the
van
> with
> >about 75K .
> >PS i bought my wife a windstar with a extended warranty
> >guess you gotta get a decent warranty!!
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> >
> Jim Cannon
> Houston, TX
> '29 Ford Model A Phaeton
> '63 Buick Riviera
> '80 Ford F-150
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 08:18:47 -0500
From: "Goodwin, Jerry"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 power windows

Last summer i found that the side of my truck that sat in the hot sun all
day had an inoperable window. After driving awhile, the air would cool it
down and window worked ok. I think there is a thermal cut out in the motor
to keep it from burning out if somebody holds the button too long. I also
had the door apart and couldnt' find any bad fuses etc. It always corrected
itself when it cooled down. Could the hot sun be your problem?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Donald Osgood [mailto:dosgood orbitworld.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 9:48 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 power windows


I have a '96 F150 with power windows.
A few days ago the windows refused to go down. Then shortly after that
the started working OK.
Yesterday I ran the windows down and drove a while. Now they wont go up.
I tried numerous times and checked the fuse and that power is getting as
far as the fuse.

Anyone have an idea what might cause this?
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 10:12:57 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ANTI-LOCK LITE

I think you might have things backwards on this one. My '95 came with
front anti-lock. The rear brakes are drums, and don't quote me on this,
but I think anti-lock brakes only come as discs.
The front is actually where you want the anti-lock anyway, since that's
where most of the braking power comes from as the weight of the vehicle
shifts over those wheels in a stop.

- -Mike

- ------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 20:44:43 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ANTI-LOCK LITE

i was told by the dealer when i bought my 1989 F250 that all Ford Pickups
have
rear anti lock brakes

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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 09:36:48 -0600
From: "Baldwin, Dave (CPCP Design)"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - ANTI-LOCK LITE

Mike,

The rear are drums and it's where the ABS is. Affectionately known as
"RABS"--rear anti-lock braking system.

The reasoning behind this is that the rear end on a truck is so lightly
loaded (without cargo) that in a panic braking situation, the rear end will
come around on you if it breaks loose.

You can have ABS on any kind of brake.

Dave

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael J. Pasznik, Jr. [mailto:mjp exit109.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 1999 9:13 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ANTI-LOCK LITE


I think you might have things backwards on this one. My '95 came
with
front anti-lock. The rear brakes are drums, and don't quote me on this,
but I think anti-lock brakes only come as discs.
The front is actually where you want the anti-lock anyway, since
that's
where most of the braking power comes from as the weight of the vehicle
shifts over those wheels in a stop.

- -Mike

- ------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 20:44:43 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ANTI-LOCK LITE

i was told by the dealer when i bought my 1989 F250 that all Ford Pickups
have
rear anti lock brakes

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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 09:52:46 -0600
From: Steve Randa
Subject: FTE 80-96 - One more try.

Not to beat an old horse but did anyone with a 95-96 F150 with the Ruby
red "cloth" interior happen to check out the BODY code on their door.
This is getting ridiculous. I can't seem to find one on any of the lots
or public auctions?!

Steve Randa
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 10:28:32 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Knock Sensor(aka PITA)

FLR150 aol.com wrote:

> Well, to let you all know I got my truck back yesterday afternoon. It feels
> much stronger and shifts 200% better. I had to replace the knock sensor before
> I could really get in it, to see if a difference was made. I cannot believe
> that Ford, after so many years of putting them in the easiest access points,
> would BURY the KS behind the intake manifold on the top of the block. I fought
> for 3 Hours to get at this thing and get it replaced. I remember my Stang 5.0
> had the KS under the manifold on the drives side. Just be warned..if your
> knock sensor ever goes....be ready to
> A. Pull the upper intake to get to it, or
> B. Know someone that is "really skinny" that can get their arms in behind the


So Wayne, whats your stand on the location of the knock sensor. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 15:09:24 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 power windows

its probably loose conneftions at the switch pull the switches and jiggle
the wires on the switch
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 13:55:58 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tranny swaps

>From: "PmctBaker"
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - tranny swaps
>
>we have a 75 ford van 351, but dont know if the
>tranny will bolt right on or not. then we have a
>79 Lincoln contential 351m/400. will any of these
>bolt up to the 78? or will we have to change the
>bell housings?

Yo Mike:

You didn't say what engine the '78 F250 has. Bell housing bolt patterns are
specific to the block, not the application. The 351M, 400, and 460 all have the
same bell housing bolt pattern. The 351W has a different bolt pattern, which is
the same as the (later) 289, 302, and 351C.

Good luck w/ your truck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 15:58:13 -0500
From: "Goodwin, Jerry"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?

What happens is water in the cable line freezes after setting the brakes.
Releasing the foot pedal is of no consequence because line is frozen. A few
things you can do:
1) Don't apply brake if its going below freezing-park on level and put in
gear
2) Under the truck, pull on both the cables to break the ice within
3) Install new left and right cables --they are plastic coated and ice does
not generally stick to them. Good luck hope this helps.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark LeRoy [mailto:markleroy sprintmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 7:11 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?


>Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 13:01:10 -0800 (PST)
>From: Andrew Christopher Funk
>When I am in the mountains (snow and below freezing temperatures), if I
>put on my parking brake, and leave the truck (94 f150 4wd) for most of the
>day (while I snowboard) when I try to leave, the right rear wheel will not
>turn (I do release the parking brake lever in the cab). I am in 4wd so,
>I end up just dragging the rear end around (the left rear wheel just
>spins). I have found that some combination of driving forward and
>backward, wiggling the parking brake cable, and simply waiting will free
>the right rear wheel.I would guess that something is getting frozen so that
>the parking brake is not properly releasing. Has anyone experienced
>something like this
>and what is the best solution (if I do not engage the parking brake, I
>have no problem, but I think I should be able to engage the parking brake
>even in snowy below freezing conditions).
>
>Thanks in advance for any replies.
>Andrew

Although a bit late on a reply (and hopefully you've got it fixed) but...

I've had this happen in Colorado during cold weather - snow, water or dry.
My problem was a leaking axle seal. Apparently the cold thick oil would
cause the brake shoe to stick. I did NOT see any lubricant leaking until
the wheel and drum were pulled off.

Mark
'90 F-250, 4x4, Ext Cab, Diesel


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 16:01:45 -0500
From: "Goodwin, Jerry"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - incompetent partspeople

Call the parts counter and order the part and have them quote the part
numbers over the phone. Get the persons name your talking to. The next
day, call again and ask for a different person. Ask for the same parts and
again get the part numbers. Compare the numbers. If they are the same
chances are its the right part. If not, look at the trip you saved
yourself.

- -----Original Message-----
From: bill gibson [mailto:gibsonb agt.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 8:10 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - incompetent partspeople


Over the last year I have been going through my 85 F250 system by system and
hopefully in
another 6 months I'll have a truck that will last and be reliable & have
cost me 20000 less than
a new one.
In the course of rebuilding all these different components I have to
order a lot of
parts.I've shopped around & discovered that Ford is priced at or even below
the cost of the local
jobbers.So I order from Ford on the assumption that OEM is best , probably
true.BUT the
partspeople (one , the most exasperating of the lot being a female)have been
nothing short of
incompetent.
The last SEVEN orders have needed to be returned because they were
the wrong thing ,wrong
size or for the wrong series.It's bad enough that it's a 50 mile round trip
each time but it's
especially galling when the blame is placed on me for not ordering the right
thing even though
the truck is idling in plain view of this idiots nose!
To steal a phrase I'm Mad As Hell & I'm Not Going To Take It Any
More !
My question is how would you people deal with this kind of
incompetence?
I should add that the last fiasco was a windshield wiper motor that
needs to be returned
because it's the wrong one . I phoned back & told them to cancel the reorder
just a few minutes
ago ,that I would get the parts elsewhere and that they would simply get it
back .That means I
will be returning the part tomorrow.It's going to be a nasty scene if they
try to stick me with a
restocking charge or a freight bill.
Any comments would be appreciated.

Bill Gibson
Tees , Alberta , Canada
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 14:19:55 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - incompetent partspeople

Good idea! You might even go as far as to call a completely different Ford
dealer, one that is more reputable but miles from this one, and do the same,
except have it shipped to and take delivery at the dealer that keeps
screwing up the order!

That should sufficiently embarrass them when you pick up the parts. Tell
them, "Hey look, I told them the same thing and they ordered the right
parts!"

Sure would suck though if it wasn't the right parts. I guess you get what
you pay for.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From:Goodwin, Jerry [SMTP:Jerry.Goodwin gsc.gte.com]
Sent:Thursday, March 04, 1999 2:02 PM
To:'80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject:RE: FTE 80-96 - incompetent partspeople

Call the parts counter and order the part and have them quote the
part
numbers over the phone. Get the persons name your talking to. The
next
day, call again and ask for a different person. Ask for the same
parts and
again get the part numbers. Compare the numbers. If they are the
same
chances are its the right part. If not, look at the trip you saved
yourself.

-----Original Message-----
From: bill gibson [mailto:gibsonb agt.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 8:10 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - incompetent partspeople


Over the last year I have been going through my 85 F250 system by
system and
hopefully in
another 6 months I'll have a truck that will last and be reliable &
have
cost me 20000 less than
a new one.
In the course of rebuilding all these different components I
have to
order a lot of
parts.I've shopped around & discovered that Ford is priced at or
even below
the cost of the local
jobbers.So I order from Ford on the assumption that OEM is best ,
probably
true.BUT the
partspeople (one , the most exasperating of the lot being a
female)have been
nothing short of
incompetent.
The last SEVEN orders have needed to be returned because
they were
the wrong thing ,wrong
size or for the wrong series.It's bad enough that it's a 50 mile
round trip
each time but it's
especially galling when the blame is placed on me for not ordering
the right
thing even though
the truck is idling in plain view of this idiots nose!
To steal a phrase I'm Mad As Hell & I'm Not Going To Take It
Any
More !
My question is how would you people deal with this kind of
incompetence?
I should add that the last fiasco was a windshield wiper
motor that
needs to be returned
because it's the wrong one . I phoned back & told them to cancel the
reorder
just a few minutes
ago ,that I would get the parts elsewhere and that they would simply
get it
back .That means I
will be returning the part tomorrow.It's going to be a nasty scene
if they
try to stick me with a
restocking charge or a freight bill.
Any comments would be appreciated.

Bill Gibson
Tees , Alberta , Canada
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 14:26:11 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt

>From: "Giddens, Scott"
>Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt
>
>IMHO,
>You would think American car manufacturers would
>get a clue from the foreign car manufacturers incredible
>success in making user replaceable components
>accessible.

Yo Scott:

All is not rosy in the land of the rising sun. A few weeks ago, I helped a
buddy change the alternator on his early '90s Honda Accord. An Autozone rebuilt
unit cost $160 and we spent almost 8 hours working on it. Those geniuses in
"user-friendly repairs" at the Honda Design Center engineered their car so that
you have to remove an axle shaft to get to the alternator, which means you
basically dismantle and re-assemble half of the front suspension just to replace
an alternator.

Yesterday afternoon, I replaced the alternator in my F250 in less than an hour.
I bought the alternator from a local shop that specializes in alternators and
starters for $46.50. This was the same place that sold me the old alternator
that lasted 5.5 years and over 100K miles.

>As a mechanical designer I resent the idea that
>we are not considered responsible enough....

I used to think we lived in the "land of the free and home of the brave," but
then I noticed a few years ago that Ford paid something over $5 million to
settle a lawsuit brought by the surviving family of a Mustang owner who plowed
his car into a concrete abutment at over 120 mph while his blood alcohol level
was over 0.20%. The family's claim was that the Mustang wasn't "crashworthy"
enough. According to the article in the Wall Street Journal, Ford's corporate
attorneys advised them that it would cost more to defend themselves successfully
than it would to settle an obviously ridiculous lawsuit.

>...American car manufacturers must cover their
>rear to avoid law suits from idiots.

Now you're catching on. If only our society would renew it's belief in social
Darwinism and accept the fact that idiots need to be culled from the gene pool
and not overprotected by more and more intrusive government regulations....
Oops, sorry about the soapbox.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 16:53:53 -0500 (EST)
From: Ken Woods
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt

On Thu, 4 Mar 1999, Dave Resch wrote:

> All is not rosy in the land of the rising sun. A few weeks ago, I
> helped a buddy change the alternator on his early '90s Honda Accord.
> An Autozone rebuilt unit cost $160 and we spent almost 8 hours working
> on it. Those geniuses in "user-friendly repairs" at the Honda Design
> Center engineered their car so that you have to remove an axle shaft
> to get to the alternator, which means you basically dismantle and
> re-assemble half of the front suspension just to replace an
> alternator.

Acutally, all you've got to do is loosen the motor mount, jack the
engine/tranny up about an inch, and pass the alt in from behind the motor.
(note: this is not what the factory recommends to do, but it works.)
I know this probably NOT what you wanted to hear, but..........

> Yesterday afternoon, I replaced the alternator in my F250 in less than
> an hour.

Really?? Me too.
Course, I did mine in the parking lot of the auto parts store, while it
was snowing, with no jacket. I was done and back in the truck in 10 mins.
:)

My hands are STILL cold.

- --
Ken Woods
kwoods kens.com

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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 15:10:40 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt

Dave,

An alternator is a little more than a disposable paper filter but I know
what you mean there also.

That is why I don't drive a tiny car. I buy a full size truck so I can
comfortably work on it.

I pull the truck under a tree on the week end, open the hood, pop a beer,
and sit and look at the problem for a while as the sun warms everything up.
Then I slowly do the job without fear that I will have to pull the engine to
change the spark plugs!

If only our society would renew it's belief in social
Darwinism and accept the fact that idiots need to be culled from the
gene pool
and not overprotected by more and more intrusive government
regulations....
Oops, sorry about the soapbox.

Yes! After all it is us who pays when we buy our trucks. We reward
stupidity and punish the wise and thoughtful responsible people. And don't
apologize to me for having an opinion, Even if I don't agree with it :-)

Scott
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 18:45:05 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - incompetent partspeople

Unfortunately, the problem isn't always the counterman. Ford has a
habit of changing designs mid-year, and often doesn't document them. My
truck is a '91, built in November of 1990. I have learned to ask
countermen to look at MY90 parts listings as well, and compare them. If
they are different numbers, then I have to figure out which part to buy.
I am amazed at how many 1990 parts my truck has.

In a lot of cases, though, you are correct: the countermen suck.

Steve
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 19:50:57 -0500
From: Jan Campbell
Subject: FTE 80-96 - A friend needs help!

This is our second request.

Our friend writes:

"I need help!

My 1988 Ford F150, SL, 5-speed Manual od trans, 4 wheel-drive has poor
fuel mileage. The problem is intermittent. Following is a list of past
work (most recent first): plenum gasket & thermostat, vacuum reservoir,
EEC relay and EEC, throttle positioning sensor, TFI mod ans stator, O2
sensor, cleaned emission system and fuel injectors. Any input would be
greatly appreciated."

This is a second request. Could someone please respond? Any
information would be appreciated.

Matt Campbell
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 17:26:56 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - A friend needs help!

Well, I must have missed the first pass.
A couple of questions first...
What's the engine size?
What's considered 'poor mileage'?
What's the ratio for city/hwy?

Bob...
with more questions than answers.


Jan Campbell wrote:

> This is our second request.
>
> Our friend writes:
>
> "I need help!
>
> My 1988 Ford F150, SL, 5-speed Manual od trans, 4 wheel-drive has poor
> fuel mileage. The problem is intermittent. Following is a list of past
> work (most recent first): plenum gasket & thermostat, vacuum reservoir,
> EEC relay and EEC, throttle positioning sensor, TFI mod ans stator, O2
> sensor, cleaned emission system and fuel injectors. Any input would be
> greatly appreciated."
>
> This is a second request. Could someone please respond? Any
> information would be appreciated.
>
> Matt Campbell
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 20:29:49 -0600
From: Donald Osgood
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 Power Windows

I found the problem with the power windows. Whoever installed the
alarm used the window power lead for the alarm and made a bad
connection. The wire was broken. It works fine now
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 22:17:53 EST
From: Hitman6136 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ANTI-LOCK LITE

your truck does have anti locks in the rear brakes
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 20:23:40 -0800
From: bob chaytor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - HEATER CONTROL

HI ALL
My truck is a 88 with air conditioning. When I run the defroster in
either position the AC runs which is good but I want to eliminate it in
the floor / defrost mode. Is there anyway to adjust this. I tend to
leave the defroster on all the time and don't want the pump running
needlessly.
BOB CHAYTOR
SOOKE BC


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 22:52:45 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - HEATER CONTROL

I wanted to do this too to save the compressor until someone told me that
when you run on "defrost", you want drier air to assist in defrosting the
windows. When my compressor went out it was hell trying to get the windows
defogged when it was rainy or humid.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:bob chaytor [SMTP:berkleybob ampsc.com]
> Sent:Thursday, March 04, 1999 10:24 PM
> To:80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - HEATER CONTROL
>
> HI ALL
> My truck is a 88 with air conditioning. When I run the defroster in
> either position the AC runs which is good but I want to eliminate it in
> the floor / defrost mode. Is there anyway to adjust this. I tend to
> leave the defroster on all the time and don't want the pump running
> needlessly.
> BOB CHAYTOR
> SOOKE BC
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 21:04:12 -0800
From: Paul Laughlin
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - HEATER CONTROL

"Harris, Scott" wrote:
>
> I wanted to do this too to save the compressor until someone told me that
> when you run on "defrost", you want drier air to assist in defrosting the
> windows. When my compressor went out it was hell trying to get the windows
> defogged when it was rainy or humid.


You know, I don't remember having that much trouble defrosting windows
before they came up with this smart idea to use the AC to dry the air.
Amd I spent some time in very cold country, too. Also, the heater and
defroster seem to work fine in vehicles that do not have AC. I would
like very much to have control of my heater, defroster and AC back.
Paul in Portland OR
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 23:47:00 -0600
From: Matthew Banevich
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - HEATER CONTROL

Paul Laughlin wrote:
>
> "Harris, Scott" wrote:
> >
> > I wanted to do this too to save the compressor until someone told me that
> > when you run on "defrost", you want drier air to assist in defrosting the
> > windows. When my compressor went out it was hell trying to get the windows
> > defogged when it was rainy or humid.
>
> You know, I don't remember having that much trouble defrosting windows
> before they came up with this smart idea to use the AC to dry the air.
> Amd I spent some time in very cold country, too. Also, the heater and
> defroster seem to work fine in vehicles that do not have AC. I would
> like very much to have control of my heater, defroster and AC back.
> Paul in Portland OR
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
I think that the defroster in the ones without the AC help were designed
that way, but I've had cars that didn't have the compressor running in
the defrost, and it took a heck of a long time, sometimes opening the....


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