80-96-list-digest Wednesday, March 3 1999 Volume 03 : Number 062



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
majordomo ford-trucks.com
with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list-digest" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Trailer Towing
FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft
FTE 80-96 - RE: F150 Weight
RE: FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft
FTE 80-96 - RE: F150/302 sadness
FTE 80-96 - RE: E-150 Van Lugging Problems
FTE 80-96 - F150/302 joy!
RE: FTE 80-96 - F150/302 joy!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft
FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt
FTE 80-96 - RE: trailer towing
FTE 80-96 - Re: Shifting into overdrive.
Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt
RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: F150 Weight
Re: FTE 80-96 - Trailer Towing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft
FTE 80-96 - RE: Weight
FTE 80-96 - Water pump fan assembly
FTE 80-96 - something i found that may help with diagnosing problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Water pump fan assembly
Re: FTE 80-96 - Water pump fan assembly
Re: FTE 80-96 - need advice for engine swap
FTE 80-96 - P.A.W. - ever dealt with?
FTE 80-96 - SVO Ignition system and Mass Air
FTE 80-96 - Jacobs Electronics Products

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 07:01:49 -0500
From: Jay Snyder
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Trailer Towing

Tom Gunby wrote:
>
> We are planning to rent a mid-size open trailer to tow behind our '86
> F-150 302 EFI. Rental place says we are ok to use the OEM "ball-mount"
> made into the bumper but we need a "four pin connector" to hook up the
> trailer lights. The truck did not come with the OEM "trailer towing
> package" mentioned in the owner's manual which appeared to include a
> "wiring hookup" for trailers so it seems we must splice into the
> taillight wiring to attach the four pin connector. Sure would

Go to U-Haul or any trailer place, and ask for a four flat wiring kit for
you truck. This is a connector with a four flat on it, that 'T's right
into your
light wiring. Look for two connectors plugged together under the
left rear corner of your bed (that's were it is on my '87). Pull these
apart, and then plug 'T' connector between them, and then you
have a four flat.

J.
'87 F150.
============================================================
Jay Snyder
jsnyder microserve.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.microserve.net/~jsnyder
(717)652-3567
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 07:10:42 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft

Gang,
Well to inform you all, I have officially gotten the shaft from the Fidelity
Warranty division of Republic Industries (AutoNation, Alamo CarRental,
National Car Rental).
I have to this date JUST been able to get the corporate level address to begin
the paper trail to the top. Basically I was told that the problems with my
previous tranny were MY fault and that they are replacing the tranny even
though I violated the terms of the warranty by having the chip, an MSD 6AL
ignition enhancer, and a K and N. Filtercharger (all parts which by the way
come with a piece of paperwork that states "This part has been approved
emissions legal and does not void FACTORY warranty).
I am not going to take up much more of FTEs bandwidth with this subject, but I
would like to say this. To all of the great people out there who read and
participate in these discussion groups PLEASE BE CAREFUL! When you are
purchasing a vehicle, unless you are buying one that is problematic (I doubt
that as most of us do research before spending our hard earned bucks) DO NOT
GET THE EXTENDED WARRANTY! I have calculated the amount of money it has COST
me to have this worthless policy, which I paid a total of $1200 for, and I
could have put this money into a low interest bearing savings account and been
WAY ahead towards the repairs, and had it done right the first time! Just my
humble opinion, sorry to take up your time.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside Page
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 08:54:00 -0500
From: "Musolino, John"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: F150 Weight

I have a '96 F-150, 4X4, extended cab, 351 V-8. On my original title,
the "unladen weight" is listed as "4399 lbs." I imagine the info came
from Ford for the state database that generated the title.

Moose
John Musolino
john.musolino newsday.com
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 08:50:46 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft

Wayne,

I concur. My advice and experience to everyone is basically the same as
yours. And is simply that if you took all the money you saved from not
buying extended warranties, and spend more time buying wisely, you could
easily pay for replacing any one of those items from the money and came out
ahead. I have never bought extended warranties for anything I have purchased
for 20 years. The only thing I had to replace during that time, that would
have been in the limits and covered by the warranty, is two tires at about
120 bucks each. That is only 120 bucks out of my pocket at two different
times. That's less expensive than most extended warranties. Of course I have
had other problems with vehicles but they would have been outside of the
warranty period or not covered items. I figure the only problem I may have
with my truck is the E4OD. If it should go out this year it will be outside
of the 2 year warranty offered to me by the car locator service. I was aware
of the problems with them before I purchased the truck and made sure it was
still good before I accepted it. If it stays running for the next two years
I will be happy. Know your risks and expect losses.

Extended warranties are nearly 100% profit for the car dealers. They are
calculated risk for them and is similar to a gambling casino, they always
come out ahead. This is not like the type of insurance you would buy for
your health or life, they are just praying on peoples fear and they know
from statistics how many claims they can weasel out of.

Good luck, don't give up
Scott

-----Original Message-----
From:FLR150 aol.com [SMTP:FLR150 aol.com]
Sent:Tuesday, March 02, 1999 5:11 AM
To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com; perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft

Gang,
Well to inform you all, I have officially gotten the shaft from the
Fidelity
Warranty division of Republic Industries (AutoNation, Alamo
CarRental,
National Car Rental).
I have to this date JUST been able to get the corporate level
address to begin
the paper trail to the top. Basically I was told that the problems
with my
previous tranny were MY fault and that they are replacing the tranny
even
though I violated the terms of the warranty by having the chip, an
MSD 6AL
ignition enhancer, and a K and N. Filtercharger (all parts which by
the way
come with a piece of paperwork that states "This part has been
approved
emissions legal and does not void FACTORY warranty).
I am not going to take up much more of FTEs bandwidth with this
subject, but I
would like to say this. To all of the great people out there who
read and
participate in these discussion groups PLEASE BE CAREFUL! When you
are
purchasing a vehicle, unless you are buying one that is problematic
(I doubt
that as most of us do research before spending our hard earned
bucks) DO NOT
GET THE EXTENDED WARRANTY! I have calculated the amount of money it
has COST
me to have this worthless policy, which I paid a total of $1200 for,
and I
could have put this money into a low interest bearing savings
account and been
WAY ahead towards the repairs, and had it done right the first time!
Just my
humble opinion, sorry to take up your time.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 09:00:27 -0700
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: F150/302 sadness

Philip:
Before you break down and do a head gasket job there is a test you can do to
confirm if there is a leak. Find a shop that will pressurize each cylinder
individually and watch the radiator for bubbles. The pressurization is done
with an air fitting that goes into the sparkplug hole. If you want to do
this yourself I'm sure J.C. Whitney sells these fittings. This test will
not only tell you if you have a leak but will also tell you which cylinder
is leaking. You will only have to change one head gasket if you know which
one it is. If you need to replace a gasket be sure to check to see that the
head is flat. With a couple gauges the pressurization test becomes a leak
down test which is a very good way to determine engine condition, much
better than a compression test.

Larry

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 19:55:35 -0500
From: Philip Thomason
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150/302 sadness

If you'll recall not long ago I posted a note about my
disappointment in
finding "green fluid" in my tailpipe after a cold start...

Well, I'll be calling the dealer I bought my '95 F-150 from tomorrow
to
see what they want to do, or are willing to do. The vehicle is about 1-2
weeks out of the 30 day warranty period.

I've been asking around and have found out the following...

If it was leaking coolant into the exhaust enough that I can see it
at the
tailpipe, it shouldn't be running. I'm not sure about this. If it's a
very minor leak, I imagine that some coolant leaks into the cylinder during
the night/cooldown period, and gets expelled when I start it the next
morning. The counter to that arguement is that I should also be getting a
"fluid lock"? in the engine when I try to start it. It starts regularly
within 1-2 seconds or less of cranking.

I had the oil changed about 2 weeks ago, simply because it was
rather
dirty. In that time, and approximately 1000-1500km, the engine has "used"
about 1 liter of oil. I can't really say that there's coolant in the oil,
although I've seen a couple of "bubbles" on the dipstick when checking at
the gas station. In other words, it's not obvious, to me. The tailpipe
does not have any noticeable carbon buildup in it, although it's fairly new.

Someone has mentioned that water in the exhaust (condensation,
whatever)
may react with some of the metals in the catalytic converter and produce a
green substance... The green I'm seeing is similar to a 10% or less
mixture of coolant/water. I haven't tasted it, but it smelled sweet like
coolant.

I drew off a sample of coolant from the overflow tank, and let it
sit for
an hour or two. Viewed from an angle it is "coolant green", but when
shining a light through it, it is distinctly brown. Viewed straight on, it
appears brown also. There did not _appear_ to be any oil in the coolant.

I've just gone out and run the truck for about 5 minutes or so, all
the
while staring intently down into the radiator cap opening... (I imagine my
landlord thinks I'm a complete nut, out in the snow, staring into my
radiator, in the dark, with a flashlight...) Apparently, if coolant were
going out my exhaust, something else should be coming in. Well, there were
no bubbles in my coolant, and the temperature gauge reached normal. I did
notice some gold flecks floating about in the coolant which I suspect may
be some sort of "stop leak". The coolant in the radiator appears much
greener than that in the overflow, but it is dark out, and I was using a
flashlight.

Any opinions, views, and thoughts would be welcomed at this point.
I
called a local Ford dealer and they quoted me about $1500-$1800 to change
the head gasket... I may attempt it myself, the parts are only $20-30
each, assuming I replace a head gasket and, intake, and exhaust gaskets at
the same time... Just a case of getting a warm place to do this...

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 09:16:10 -0700
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: E-150 Van Lugging Problems

Jim

You didn't mention lack of power other than when you start climbing a hill
so I will assume the engine power is normal. I will also assume that it is
normal for the van to downshift on these hills but not normal to lug the
engine down before downshifting. If the above assumptions are correct then
look at the mechanism that controls the downshifting. I'm not familiar with
the tranny in your truck but if it has mechanical linkage between the
throttle linkage and transmission have that linkage adjusted. If that
doesn't help determine which rod or cable controls the full throttle sensing
and adjust it to detect full throttle earlier. The downshift should occur
while still in the powerband of your engine. I have found these adjustments
to greatly improve the operation of other automatics. Seems it is an
adjustment that is often neglected.

Larry


Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 15:21:37 -0800
From: Jim Cullen
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E-150 Van Lugging Problems

The first person to solve this problem (and his or her spouse) will be
treated to a free steak dinner
at the Outback Steak House in Las Vegas, NV, next time you're in town!

I have a 1986 Ford E-150 Van with 141,000 miles on it.
The engine is a 302-V8 with EFI and an automatic transmission.
The van has developed a problem that, to date, has baffled mechanics at 4
separate garages.
When the van is going up a hill -- even a hill with a fairly low grade --
it lugs down just before the
automatic transmission downshifts.
The problem seems to exist whether the engine is cold or hot.

Here's what I've done to date:

Midas Muffler did a test on the two catylitic converters and says that
they're not plugged.

Royal/Cotttman Transmission test drove the vehicle and said that the
transmission was fine.

I personally changed the fuel filter -- it's brand new.

The shop that I now use found that a previous shop...
Had put in the wrong heat-range spark plugs.
Had cranked the distributor as far over as it would go to the lean
side.
My new shop fixed both of these problems and the car ran a
tad better.

The shop that I now use
Found a plugged PCV valve and hose -- apparently there was a lot of
gunk
in it.
They replaced the valve, hose and had the intake manifold
hot-tanked.
Found that there was about 8 degrees of slop in the timing chain.
They replaced the chain set.
They cleaned the injectors.
They replaced that little check engine light down on the lower left
of the
instrument panel.
The light hadn't worked since the day the vehicle was new.
It works now, but it just comes on for a second or so right
after
start-up, like it's supposed to.
They said that they put the car on their $50,000 computer and
nothing
showed up.
They said the various sensors seemed to be OK.

All of these repairs made the car run somewhat better, as you'd expect.
However, the car still lugs down on hills
just before it downshifts and the shop is starting to run out of ideas!

Actually, they have on idea left...
The fuel injectors have never been changed and they seem to recall
that
Ford issued a
Service Bulletin about an upgrade to the injectors on this vehicle.
What's the likelihood that changing out the injectors will solve the
problem.

Do you have any other ideas that might get my van running well again? My
wife and I really like the van.

Oh, we did try to get the local Ford dealer to work on the car but, because
we had not spent any money at his shop
in the past two years and because the car was more than 10 years old, he
refused to work on it.

Many thanks for all your help.
Hope you can come to Las Vegas and take us up on our offer!

Sincerely,

Carolyn and Jim Cullen

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 11:21:48 -0500
From: Philip Thomason
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150/302 joy!

Well, after some people mentioned a strange exhaust chemical reaction, and
my brain finally got through to me and pointed out an intriguing Ford TSB
#, I called a local Ford dealer and they were nice enough to send me a copy
of TSB # 95-7-19.

This TSB has made my week, and even the sun is brighter!

I'll post a brief copy of the TSB in the hopes that someone else can
benefit from my brief period of heart failure.

And thanks to all who answered.
Phil

Article No.
95-7-19

Issue:
Evidence of "green" condensate or "white" smoke coming from the exhaust
tailpipe may occur on some vehicles. This may be caused by a chemical
reaction between the engine combustion gases and residual chromium in the
muffler. Exhaust gas pressure forces this "green" condensate out through
the tailpipe. The "green" condensate is not related to engine anti-freeze.
The "white" smoke is created when moisture that may accumulate in the cold
muffler is heated by engine combustion gases. As the muffler reaches
operating temperature, this moisture is emitted into the atmosphere as steam.

Action:
Drill two (2) condensate drain holes in the bottom center of each muffler
head. The two (2) holes will allow moisture to drain out of the muffler
before it has a chance to collect in the muffler and dissolve the chromium.
It, also, will not be heated by exhaust gases and be emitted as steam.
Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

Service Procedure:
1.Locate the center of each drain hole along the vertical centerline of
both the front and rear muffler head, approximately 3/32" (2.4mm) above the
roll flange. Refer to Figure 1.
2.Mark the hole location with a center punch.
3.Drill a 3/16" (4.8mm) hole in each muffler head.
Caution:
Do not drill through the muffler shell.
Warning:
Use an air type drill to avoid potential electrical shock hazard.


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 09:45:23 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - F150/302 joy!

Thanks Philip,

I have the same year truck but fortunately I replaced the exhaust system
with a dual cat back. I did have a similar scare when last summer I was
driving cross country and I noticed a huge amount of water was pouring out
from under the hood when stopped at a gas station. After several minutes of
checking hoses and coolant I figured out the water was nearly pure and it
could not be from the cooling system. It turned out to be condensation from
the AC compressor. I never saw any ice because of the thermal blanket over
the compressor. I would have never guessed that much water flowing from the
engine compartment could be just defrosting ice. But it was very hot humid
weather and I was on the road for two straight days with few stops and it
had a long time to build up.

So if you see water pouring from the passenger side of the motor, don't
freak out again!

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From:Philip Thomason [SMTP:ghost storm.ca]
Sent:Tuesday, March 02, 1999 9:22 AM
To:80-96-list fordtrucks.com
Subject:FTE 80-96 - F150/302 joy!

Well, after some people mentioned a strange exhaust chemical
reaction, and
my brain finally got through to me and pointed out an intriguing
Ford TSB
#, I called a local Ford dealer and they were nice enough to send me
a copy
of TSB # 95-7-19.

This TSB has made my week, and even the sun is brighter!

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 09:08:29 -0800
From: "Mike"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft

I have only purchased one extended warranty in my 30 yrs of driving. It cost
me $1500 and so far I have collected about $4000. I anticipate another
$2000+ or so in the next couple months before the warranty expires. This is
not on a Ford truck.

mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: Giddens, Scott
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 7:54 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft


>Wayne,
>
>I concur. My advice and experience to everyone is basically the same as
>yours. And is simply that if you took all the money you saved from not
>buying extended warranties, and spend more time buying wisely, you could
>easily pay for replacing any one of those items from the money and came out
>ahead. I have never bought extended warranties for anything I have
purchased
>for 20 years. The only thing I had to replace during that time, that would
>have been in the limits and covered by the warranty, is two tires at about
>120 bucks each. That is only 120 bucks out of my pocket at two different
>times. That's less expensive than most extended warranties. Of course I
have
>had other problems with vehicles but they would have been outside of the
>warranty period or not covered items. I figure the only problem I may have
>with my truck is the E4OD. If it should go out this year it will be outside
>of the 2 year warranty offered to me by the car locator service. I was
aware
>of the problems with them before I purchased the truck and made sure it was
>still good before I accepted it. If it stays running for the next two years
>I will be happy. Know your risks and expect losses.
>
>Extended warranties are nearly 100% profit for the car dealers. They are
>calculated risk for them and is similar to a gambling casino, they always
>come out ahead. This is not like the type of insurance you would buy for
>your health or life, they are just praying on peoples fear and they know
>from statistics how many claims they can weasel out of.
>
>Good luck, don't give up
>Scott
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: FLR150 aol.com [SMTP:FLR150 aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 5:11 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com; perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft
>
> Gang,
> Well to inform you all, I have officially gotten the shaft from the
>Fidelity
> Warranty division of Republic Industries (AutoNation, Alamo
>CarRental,
> National Car Rental).
> I have to this date JUST been able to get the corporate level
>address to begin
> the paper trail to the top. Basically I was told that the problems
>with my
> previous tranny were MY fault and that they are replacing the tranny
>even
> though I violated the terms of the warranty by having the chip, an
>MSD 6AL
> ignition enhancer, and a K and N. Filtercharger (all parts which by
>the way
> come with a piece of paperwork that states "This part has been
>approved
> emissions legal and does not void FACTORY warranty).
> I am not going to take up much more of FTEs bandwidth with this
>subject, but I
> would like to say this. To all of the great people out there who
>read and
> participate in these discussion groups PLEASE BE CAREFUL! When you
>are
> purchasing a vehicle, unless you are buying one that is problematic
>(I doubt
> that as most of us do research before spending our hard earned
>bucks) DO NOT
> GET THE EXTENDED WARRANTY! I have calculated the amount of money it
>has COST
> me to have this worthless policy, which I paid a total of $1200 for,
>and I
> could have put this money into a low interest bearing savings
>account and been
> WAY ahead towards the repairs, and had it done right the first time!
>Just my
> humble opinion, sorry to take up your time.
> Wayne Foy
> '94 Flareside SC
> "Hazardous Material"
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 11:12:44 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt

After two tries and several choice words I still can't remove the fuel
filter on my '95 F150 SC 5.8L Short bed with dual tanks and off road
package.

I thought it would be a simple job of pulling off the filter (once I got the
fuel line connector removal tool) and replacing it. What I discovered is I
am going to have to remove the metal skid plate from under the front tank.
Even though I do that I am still wondering if it is even possible to remove
the rear fuel line filter connector with the fuel tank blocking the filter
which is crammed inside the frame rail. There is about 1" of clearance to
get between the plate and the rail and not much more than that between the
tank and the rail. The filter is designed to be removed from the bracket
only when the entire bracket is removed thus making it even worse. You could
not have put it in a worse place if you tried.

Not only that but the cheap plastic tool I got for the fuel line connector
broke in two pieces when I popped it off the front fuel line connection.

It would be a lot easier if I could find a better made tool to use. The
plastic ones break in cold weather and seem to be disposable, for one use
only.

Does anyone know where to buy a better made fuel line removal tool?
Has anyone managed to replace the fuel filter with the off-road skid plate
still attached?

I sure prefer to work on my wife's foreign car where the frequently
serviceable components are actually easy to get to, at the top of the engine
compartment. If I am going to have to remove the tank to get the filter and
the bracket out like the manual states, I am tempted to relocate the thing
where you can get to it without disassembling the truck to do it.

Scott (very pissed!)
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 13:02:15 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: trailer towing

If you are renting from U-Haul, be aware that they use a proprietary
wiring harness on their trailers that will NOT work with any standard
setup. You can buy a "piggyback" 4-way flat from them which has their
pattern and the standard pattern on the same plug, but if this is a
one-shot deal they can also just wire their trailer into your taillights.
I believe they use a special bulb with wires leading out to the trailer.
If it's just a standard 4-way flat you need, it attaches as follows:
white wire to ground
yeLLow wire to Left turn signal
gReen wire to Right turn signal
brown wire to taillights
Again, if it's just a one-shot deal I'd use snap-on splices. I think the
wires to splice into are:
ground is black
left turn is lt green & orange
right turn is orange and lt blue
taillights is brown
If it's like most trucks these wires are all gray, of course, so just
creep under there with a test light (I use an old brake light). Clip
onto a likely looking wire, and try your lights and turn signals.
Repeat. Don't worry about brake lights and hazard 4-ways. They share
the turn signal circuits. Good luck.

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F-150 300 ci
'73 F-100 360 (?) FE

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 12:27:31 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Shifting into overdrive.

During normal road driving I would never do any extra shifting (automatic or
manual) to try and spare the brakes. Brakes are so much cheaper than
transmissions/clutches/drivelines to maintain. Only exception might be long
downhills where brake overheating is a safety problem.
David Anderson
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 13:26:43 EST
From: DJ250r aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt

did one yesterday is it the one in the frame rail?i have a 95 f150 and the one
i changed was a 2 1/2 inch or 3 inch canisterin the frame rail my wife got the
tool at napa i think ,after i got the filter braket off i was able to get to
the filter and the tool is a metal one
dwayne jackson
socaldez
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 11:44:25 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd attempt

Yes it is in the frame rail. I have the dual tanks so the front tank is
blocking the bracket from coming out. You must have a single tank with out
the skid plate or you would know exactly what I mean.

The fuel line goes stiff down the line so there is no slack to shift it out.
The threaded studs sticking out of the bracket are too long to come out of
the frame rail with the tank there. I suppose I could cut the studs shorter
if I try to do it without removing the tank. The skid plate would still have
to come off though.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From:DJ250r aol.com [SMTP:DJ250r aol.com]
Sent:Tuesday, March 02, 1999 11:27 AM
To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Fuel Filter Removal, 2nd
attempt

did one yesterday is it the one in the frame rail?i have a 95 f150
and the one
i changed was a 2 1/2 inch or 3 inch canisterin the frame rail my
wife got the
tool at napa i think ,after i got the filter braket off i was able
to get to
the filter and the tool is a metal one
dwayne jackson
socaldez

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 14:19:13 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: F150 Weight

I have a '96 F-150, 4X4, extended cab, 351 V-8. On my original title,
the "unladen weight" is listed as "4399 lbs." I imagine the info came
from Ford for the state database that generated the title.


That seems kinda light as my 94 Lightning weighs 4400lbs...regular cab 2
wheel drive!
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 18:33:45 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Trailer Towing

I did.
They did.
It did.
Thanks,
Tom Gunby

ROlson1039 aol.com wrote:

> just go to your local auto parts store they have a clip[ in harness connector
> that you attach under the rear bumper and it goives you the connecitble
> lights.. very simple to do and costs about $14
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 20:08:32 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Extended Warranty Shaft

i totally disagree i bought a 1993 Voyager for my wife with about 49K on it
and in and bought an extended warranty.. since the inception of the warranty
ive had replaced two transmissions, struts, axels, an air conditioner
compressor, water pump, and an evaporator.. for the $1200 i spent on the GE
capital warranty ( and after the second tranny went i immediately traded the
van in) less the $600 for the unused portion for the 18 months of warranty i
wouldnt need so Hell i wouldnt buy a vehicle from a dealer without one!!!
mine paid for itself over five times!! in 18 months i got rid of the van with
about 75K .
PS i bought my wife a windstar with a extended warranty
guess you gotta get a decent warranty!!
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 20:05:18 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Weight

>Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 weight

>Um, not being a smart...., but Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is NOT
>the weight of your vehicle. It is the maximum recommended weight of the
>truck + cargo + passengers + fuel + etc. The only way to tell how much
>your truck weighs is to put in on scales. Even with a lot of add-ons,
>you're probably not that close to your GVWR. If you do have a lot of
>stuff, you may especially want to weigh your truck and get the axle
weights
>individually. The sticker on the door jamb also shows the maximum AXLE
>weight rating (GAWR). Supposedly, there is a 10% safety margin built into
>these ratings, but I wouldn't push it.

>Be safe,
>Neal

Neal, I know that...I scaled it once with about #500 of powedered
chemicals...and got something like #7300.....before the two side boxes
added......I'm pushing it ALL the time!

Finances are such that there's nothing I can do about it for some months
yet.
And is a 250 EVEN going to help???? Or am I looking 350 dually?

ARGH!


Dave H.
92 F-150 (most recent fill-up 12.32 mpg :(
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 20:45:11 -0600
From: "Dale J. Jensen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Water pump fan assembly

Dear Group;

I needed to replace the radiator on my 1990 F150 with a 4.9 I6. It
seemed like a
straight forward job, until I tried to remove the fan and clutch
assembly.( I wanted to get
it out of the way. ) There is an appx. inch and 3/8 nut , (Helms says
RH thread) that holds the assembly on the water pump.
How , or what is the best way to break that nut ? Is there a special
tool that holds the
pulley while you have a wrench on the nut ? Do you have to remove the
water pump?

Also, the side tanks on the radiator are plastic, and cannot be
repaired. A new one
cost over $200. Is this true, radiators are disposable?

Thanks in advance, Dale

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 21:44:37 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - something i found that may help with diagnosing problems

Greetings y'all
I went into the new auto parts store in town.. Auto Zone they took over all
the Pep Boys that had no service bays.. anyway they sell CD roms put out by
Popular Mechanics
they have different ones for different years and cover most cars and trucks
out there the one i got covers my truck and it has diagrams, illustrations,
diagnostics how to remove and replace items and you can get factory service
bulletins and recall through the net..
I paid $19.95 for the cd for my truck
Regards all
Rolson1039 aol.com
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 21:52:49 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Water pump fan assembly

yes plastic tank radiators are disposable but i can get almost any radiator
brand new here for $100 and thats a brand new Modine one,,
also when i have to remopve a clutch fan i usually can grab the fan with one
hand and break loose the bolt with the other one and an open end or box end
wrench
hope that helps
Bob
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 21:54:55 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Water pump fan assembly

"Dale J. Jensen" wrote:
>
> Dear Group;
>
> I needed to replace the radiator on my 1990 F150 with a 4.9 I6. It
> seemed like a
> straight forward job,
>
The rad in my '81 is original, I believe, so I'm looking forward to
hearing of your adventures.

>
> Also, the side tanks on the radiator are plastic, and cannot be
> repaired. A new one
> cost over $200. Is this true, radiators are disposable?
>
A good rad shop might be able to recore it, I didn't try on my car last
summer though I guess I should have checked. Otherwise, yup, rads are
repairable like oil filters.

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 22:10:00 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - need advice for engine swap

Chris,
Sounds like you're off to a good start. The C-6 is the more bulletproof
tranny of the two. But that OD sure is nice. Check out:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thegrid.net/thedrivetrainpage/
This guy has some tips on how that make the E4OD practically
bulletproof.
You can probably find the weight of that 429 vs the 302 somewhere on the
net which will give you a good reference point when considering the
front-end beef-up.
Air bags may be a way to go. I know guys that plow w/their 150's and
that's what they do so they can pump them up (anyone thinking of Hans
and Franz right now?) when the plow is on. This may not be the best way
for you to go, but gives you an option to look into since your weight
gain will be constant, not on and off like w/a plow.

Have fun and be sure to post pics and stats on this bad boy when done

Later,
Brew

chrislambeth email.com wrote:
>
> I am about to find my way into a 429/C6 combo, and I figure I might as well drop it into my 95 F-150. I am already planning to beef up the front suspension to accomodate the weight of a big block (the truck having a 302 in it now), replace the fuel sending unit with one that can get enough fuel to a 429, have a chip custom-burned so to alter the injector order as well as other stuff, drop the EFI stuff from a 460 on top of it, and re-do the exhaust and motor mounts. The questions are (1) would I be able to use the existing E4OD behind a 429, or would I need to take the tranny thats behind a 460, and (2) would replacing the sending unit be enough for the fuel system, or would I have to replace the whole fuel delivery system, lines and all? and (3) have I covered all the bases here or have I missed anything??
>
> Any advice would be helpful at this point.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Chris Lambeth
> chrislambeth email.com
>
> -----------------------------------------------
> FREE! The World's Best Email Address email.com
> Reserve your name now at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.email.com
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 22:14:03 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: FTE 80-96 - P.A.W. - ever dealt with?

Just wondering if anyone has ever dealt with Performance Automotive
Warehouse. I've seen their ad in mags for years now, but have never
ordered anything from them. Unless your comment would benefit the list,
you can e-mail me directly. Would like to do some mods on my 351W and
am looking around. I know that Summit (been there) and Jeg's are both
good, but if PAW is good too, then I'll consider them.

Thanks,
Brew
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 22:33:40 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - SVO Ignition system and Mass Air

Considering the amount of money I am saving on my tranny rebuild (it's a
long story) I have decided to "invest" in some upgrades for my Bronco ('90
302). The first one I am looking at is the SVO Mass-Air conversion kit
(#M-9000-T51). Has anyone actually bought one of these kits, or done a
mass-air conversion of any sort? If in the future I decide to upgrade to a
351 I am assuming that the mass-air sensor itself can be reused, but is
there and ECU that will support mass-air for a 351?
The second item(s) I am looking at are the "Ultra" High energy Ignition
Control Module (#M-12199-E351) and the High Energy E-Core Ignition Coil....

---

To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.