80-96-list-digest Tuesday, March 2 1999 Volume 03 : Number 060



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - locking differential
RE: FTE 80-96 - Speedo Gear on 96 300 I6
RE: FTE 80-96 - More gas mileage questions.......
FTE 80-96 - Chug-a-lug-lug
RE: FTE 80-96 - More gas mileage questions.......
FTE 80-96 - RE: FTE offroad - locking differential
Re: FTE 80-96 - Chug-a-lug-lug
Re: FTE 80-96 - locking differential
FTE 80-96 - F150 weight
FTE 80-96 - RE: gas milage
FTE 80-96 - Re: Shifting into overdrive.
RE: FTE 80-96 - Serious disappointment
FTE 80-96 - test message post
FTE 80-96 - Rear Axle Identification
FTE 80-96 - Upgrade rear end and axle
RE: FTE 80-96 - Chug-a-lug-lug
RE: FTE 80-96 - Serious disappointment
RE: FTE 80-96 - Rear Axle Identification
FTE 80-96 - '83 F150 with bad transmission
FTE 80-96 - Pilot bearing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Shifting into overdrive.
FTE 80-96 - RE: Lund Sunvisor Install '96 F350 CC
FTE 80-96 - E-150 Van Lugging Problems
FTE 80-96 - Trailer Towing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Trailer Towing
Re: FTE 80-96 - E-150 Van Lugging Problems
FTE 80-96 - F150/302 sadness
Re: FTE 80-96 - E-150 Van Lugging Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Trailer Towing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Chug-a-lug-lug
FTE 80-96 - need advice for engine swap
Re: FTE 80-96 - E-150 Van Lugging Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Trailer Towing
FTE 80-96 - F-150 Fuel Pressure question
Re: FTE 80-96 - AOD vs AODE
RE: FTE 80-96 - RE: OD off light...
Re: FTE 80-96 - Chug-a-lug-lug
FTE 80-96 - Re: F150 weight

=======================================================================

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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 06:33:42 -0500
From: "Christopher Maher"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - locking differential

Paul, I put an Auburn Gear locker in my 8.8 in my 89 F150 when the stock
unit went bad. I was able to swap it in using the same shims and my old
ring and pinion. The only new stuff I needed was new carrier bearings. I
have been happy with this unit......it uses a cone shaped clutch setup and
is more beefy than the factory traction lock.

Christopher T. Maher
- -----Original Message-----
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com ;
97up-list ford-trucks.com ;
offroad-list ford-trucks.com ;
perf-list ford-trucks.com
Date: March 1, 1999 1:25 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - locking differential


>Fellow Ford Owners
>
>I am going to buy a locking differential for the rear of my 1991 Ford F-250
>pickup. I was going to get the Powertrax Lockright, but then i heard it
was
>only good for about 50,000 miles. Is this true? I was told to get a
Detroit
>Locker but how much more money will it be? And will i have to adjust the
ring
>and pinion settings? I definatly want posi 100% of the time except on the
>turns (i think that a lockright and detroit lock and un lock on turns). I
was
>wondering what you guys thought about these two lockers, and if you knew of
>any other lockers that did the exact same thing only maybe cheaper. On
which
>ones will I not have to reset the ring and pinion?
>
>Paul
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>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 08:00:12 -0500
From: "Goodwin, Jerry"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Speedo Gear on 96 300 I6

I don't think there is a speedo gear. I believe the calculation is done in
software in the computer.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Stefan Rearden [mailto:fssbr aurora.alaska.edu]
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 1999 9:19 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Speedo Gear on 96 300 I6


I've changed out my stock ford tires for 31x10.5x15 BFG all terrains and now
I need to change the speedo gear, only problem is I can't seem to find where
the gear is located. I had it at a friends garage and we looked at the
transfer case and the transmission, but couldn't find it anywhere. Anyone
have an Idea where it's located on a 96 F150 300, I6 5 speed manual? The
Chilton's manual I had only had a picture of a 93 F150.
Also, would anyone know what size gear I would need to replace it with?
(I'm going from 29 inch wheels that came with the truck to the 31's) All
the gears are stock on the truck (diff is 3.55).

Stefan Rearden
Fairbanks Alaska

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 08:01:21 -0500
From: "Goodwin, Jerry"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - More gas mileage questions.......

One thing for sure--if the speedo is off so isn't the odometer.

- -----Original Message-----
From: EJ [mailto:oldsluvr bellatlantic.net]
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 1999 10:55 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - More gas mileage questions.......


What should be the average cruising range for my truck, stock weight,
after a *complete* fuel fill up ?

1992 F-250 460, E4OD, 3.55 gears, dual tanks(37.2 gal ?)

Anybody have a similarly equipped ride ?

As of right now, with 35 inch tires, a visor, nerf Bars, and a cap, I'm
lucky if i can squeeze 250 out of it, if I baby it !!!

Also, probably a *really* stupid question.......would the speedometer
not being accurate, affect the odometer reading as well ???. I know the
speedo is not accurate(35 inch tires), and i do know there is a
procedure to recalibrate it, but I'm going to wait, since I don't intend
on keeping these tires(i want to go with 33's), and i know that this
procedure can only be done a few times.

TIA
EJ(thinking the 10-12 mpg that all the environmentalist are complaining
about the new Excursion will be geting is sounding really impressive at
this point ;) ).

P.S. you can see a few pics of my truck if you click on the link in my
sig.
- --
"EJ" In Hamilton Township, New Jersey, suburb of Trenton
On digest where availabile, not regular mail
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/Olds_luvr/photoalbum/photoalbum/index.html
E-Mail: oldsluvr bellatlantic.net
The "Fleet"
1979 Pontiac "Olds organ donor" Trans Am T-tops Rebuilt Olds 6.6L 403
4bbl-TH350 Performer Cam and Intake.....going into the Calais
For Sale.
1984 Olds Cutlass Calais T-Tops 5.0L 307 4bbl-TH350-2.14 gears K+N.....
soon to be 6.6L 403 4bbl, and hopefully some better "rear" gears
1985 Olds Toronado 5.0L 307 4bbl-AOD(newly acquired Sept. 98).
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Moonroof 5.0L 302 EFI HO-AOD-3.27 gears
inner fender baffle removed-K+N.
1992 Ford F-250 Reg-Cab 4WD 7.5L 460 EFI-E4OD Auto-3.55 gears.
3-inch converter-dual outlet flowmaster 3 chamber.
Complete K+N(no more factory air-box)-ADS Super Chip-Spitfires-
Accel Super Coil-Cap-Rotor & 8.8 wires.
1994 Toyota Camry Sedan 4-banger-(Wow we could have had a V6!)-"mili
-liter"-AOD. K+N (why did I even bother, still a slug!)
My SO's rider
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 07:30:00 -0600
From: "Wallace, Craig"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Chug-a-lug-lug

Hey guys.

It's been a while since I posted anything. So here goes....

I have a '94 F150 automatic I6 300 4.9L. My problem has only occured twice,
now. But the fact that it just recently happened for the second time
worries
me. The first time was right after having my truck washed at a "Touchless"
car wash. The car wash sprays from under the body to get any dirt and salt
washed away. As soon as I was driving away, my truck started "choking". It
acted as if it was not getting fuel properly or "missing" extremely bad
(kind
of like someone just starting to learn to drive a manual transmission). I
wrote it off as the electrical system getting wet since it shortly went away
and was fine 'til this weekend. We had an extremely humid morning on
Saturday and it happened again. And like the first time, went away after
about five minutes and has been fine since. My best friend tells me it
could
be the O2 sensor. I would like to know for sure if anybody has had this
same
problem and if a bad O2 sensor would cause this type of problem. Could the
moisture in the air and the carwash be just a coin-k-a-dink, or directly
related?

Thanks to all responses in advance!
Craig Wallace
wallacec emotors.com
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 08:53:42 -0500
From: "Goodwin, Jerry"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - More gas mileage questions.......

One thing for sure--if the speedo is off so isn't the odometer.

- -----Original Message-----
From: EJ [mailto:oldsluvr bellatlantic.net]
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 1999 10:55 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - More gas mileage questions.......


What should be the average cruising range for my truck, stock weight,
after a *complete* fuel fill up ?

1992 F-250 460, E4OD, 3.55 gears, dual tanks(37.2 gal ?)

Anybody have a similarly equipped ride ?

As of right now, with 35 inch tires, a visor, nerf Bars, and a cap, I'm
lucky if i can squeeze 250 out of it, if I baby it !!!

Also, probably a *really* stupid question.......would the speedometer
not being accurate, affect the odometer reading as well ???. I know the
speedo is not accurate(35 inch tires), and i do know there is a
procedure to recalibrate it, but I'm going to wait, since I don't intend
on keeping these tires(i want to go with 33's), and i know that this
procedure can only be done a few times.

TIA
EJ(thinking the 10-12 mpg that all the environmentalist are complaining
about the new Excursion will be geting is sounding really impressive at
this point ;) ).

P.S. you can see a few pics of my truck if you click on the link in my
sig.
- --
"EJ" In Hamilton Township, New Jersey, suburb of Trenton
On digest where availabile, not regular mail
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/Olds_luvr/photoalbum/photoalbum/index.html
E-Mail: oldsluvr bellatlantic.net
The "Fleet"
1979 Pontiac "Olds organ donor" Trans Am T-tops Rebuilt Olds 6.6L 403
4bbl-TH350 Performer Cam and Intake.....going into the Calais
For Sale.
1984 Olds Cutlass Calais T-Tops 5.0L 307 4bbl-TH350-2.14 gears K+N.....
soon to be 6.6L 403 4bbl, and hopefully some better "rear" gears
1985 Olds Toronado 5.0L 307 4bbl-AOD(newly acquired Sept. 98).
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Moonroof 5.0L 302 EFI HO-AOD-3.27 gears
inner fender baffle removed-K+N.
1992 Ford F-250 Reg-Cab 4WD 7.5L 460 EFI-E4OD Auto-3.55 gears.
3-inch converter-dual outlet flowmaster 3 chamber.
Complete K+N(no more factory air-box)-ADS Super Chip-Spitfires-
Accel Super Coil-Cap-Rotor & 8.8 wires.
1994 Toyota Camry Sedan 4-banger-(Wow we could have had a V6!)-"mili
-liter"-AOD. K+N (why did I even bother, still a slug!)
My SO's rider
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:14:12 -0500
From: Greg Carter
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: FTE offroad - locking differential

First check which rear end you have, if it is the Ford 10.25 semi float then
you can't get a Detroit. The codes are in your owners manual, and you can
find the code on the inside of the door frame on the drivers side. This
will tell you whether it is a Ford or a Dana. If it is the higher weight
(over 5300 lbs) Ford than it is probably a Full float, look for a large hub
at the rear wheel, similar to the front hub but without the locking dial,
inside the 8 wheel studs.

People in my off road club usually end up replacing a Lockright at least
once when it goes in the rear due to wear. They seem to last in the front
since they are only engaged when in 4 wheel drive. I haven't heard of
anyone needing to replace a Detroit. The lockright is easier to install
than the Detroit.

Cost for Detroit for Ford 10.25 Full float is 487US from Drive train direct,
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.drivetraindirect.com, however I also purchased a complete set of
gears, bearings and install kit front and back and a Detroit for the front
as well, so you may or may not get that price.

Search for previous post (or email and I'll forward) on other concerns with
91 F250 if you want to change gears so you can run bigger tires.
Bye.
- ----
Greg Carter, Entrust Technologies
greg.carter entrust.com


> ----------
> From: WoodStck45 aol.com[SMTP:WoodStck45 aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 01, 1999 1:25 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com; 97up-list ford-trucks.com;
> offroad-list ford-trucks.com; perf-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE offroad - locking differential
>
> Fellow Ford Owners
>
> I am going to buy a locking differential for the rear of my 1991 Ford
> F-250
> pickup. I was going to get the Powertrax Lockright, but then i heard it
> was
> only good for about 50,000 miles. Is this true? I was told to get a
> Detroit
> Locker but how much more money will it be? And will i have to adjust the
> ring
> and pinion settings? I definatly want posi 100% of the time except on the
> turns (i think that a lockright and detroit lock and un lock on turns). I
> was
> wondering what you guys thought about these two lockers, and if you knew
> of
> any other lockers that did the exact same thing only maybe cheaper. On
> which
> ones will I not have to reset the ring and pinion?
>
> Paul
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 08:37:09 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Chug-a-lug-lug

Wallace, Craig wrote:

> Hey guys.
>
> me. The first time was right after having my truck washed at a "Touchless"
> car wash. The car wash sprays from under the body to get any dirt and salt
> washed away. As soon as I was driving away, my truck started "choking". It
> acted as if it was not getting fuel properly or "missing" extremely bad

Craig,
Have you opened the distributor cap to check to see if its
dry ? If not, and you find its wet, then there are electrical
sprays you can use to quickly dry it out. Seeing your post,
that it happened after a carwash i'll bet something electrical
got wet.
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 10:16:16 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - locking differential

WoodStck45 aol.com wrote:
>
> Fellow Ford Owners
>
> I am going to buy a locking differential for the rear of my 1991 Ford F-250
> pickup. I was going to get the Powertrax Lockright, but then i heard it was
> only good for about 50,000 miles. Is this true? I was told to get a Detroit
> Locker but how much more money will it be? And will i have to adjust the ring
> and pinion settings? I definatly want posi 100% of the time except on the
> turns (i think that a lockright and detroit lock and un lock on turns). I was
> wondering what you guys thought about these two lockers, and if you knew of
> any other lockers that did the exact same thing only maybe cheaper. On which
> ones will I not have to reset the ring and pinion?
>
> Paul
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

There is a locker well not quite but works just as well especially for
street applications..I think its called power trax and it transfers most
of the power to the wheel with the MOST grip unlike normal limited slips
which only transfer a very minimal amount to the wheel with traction. It
supposedly doesn't make any noise and cause less wear and tear!
Chris
94 Lightning#381
NLOC #238
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 09:32:49 -0600
From: Neal Osburn
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 weight

Um, not being a smart...., but Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is NOT
the weight of your vehicle. It is the maximum recommended weight of the
truck + cargo + passengers + fuel + etc. The only way to tell how much
your truck weighs is to put in on scales. Even with a lot of add-ons,
you're probably not that close to your GVWR. If you do have a lot of
stuff, you may especially want to weigh your truck and get the axle weights
individually. The sticker on the door jamb also shows the maximum AXLE
weight rating (GAWR). Supposedly, there is a 10% safety margin built into
these ratings, but I wouldn't push it.

Be safe,
Neal

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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 08:56:58 -0700
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: gas milage

Dave,
Where did you put all the lead ballast in your F-150? My 95 F-250 HD
Powerstroke 4x4 SC weighs 6600 pounds, weighed on a certified scale, with
full tanks.

BTW: My sons 95 F-150 I-6 gets 18 to 20 mpg on the highway, in the summer,
and 12 to 14 mpg in town.

Larry

Greg,

I have a 92 F-150 5.0 E4OD that weighs near 7000 pounds, and gets very
similar mileage...we had an 88 I-6 5sp that did better on longish
trips....but I can't complain about 14.5 or so!

Incidently, how is your truck geared? Mine does 2000 RPM in OD at 70 mph,
about 2800 with OD locked out.....mines geared 3.53 (or close to that)

Your six should make good power in the high teens/low 2000's RPM....check
that gearing!!!

Dave H.
92 F-150 S/C 5.0 E4OD 188k miles and counting!
Houston, TX

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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 09:06:18 -0800
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Shifting into overdrive.

On Sun, 28 Feb 1999, troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams) wrote:
>
> I was speaking with someone earlier today and I was asking if
> downshifting out of overdrive at around 50 MPH to slow the truck
> down to a stop rather than letting the brakes do all the work was
> harming the tranny any. I was told that it does no harm, in fact, it
> does help the transmission and then it helps the brakes. I do this
> at least once or twice per day, depending on which stop light I am
> getting stopped at.

I don't see how it could help the tranny any, but it does help the
brakes...when an automatic shifts its clutches slip and the higher
engine rpm it shifts at the more slip occurs. From OD to 3 range this
shouldn't be very much, although the help to the brakes isn't very much
either. For my money I will always adjust my speed or stop using the
brakes only, and use the transmission to hold a speed I need, i.e. going
down a long hill.

> I was also asking about shifting into overdrive while the truck is
> moving. I was telling the person how I pop it into overdrive. I just
> let up off the gas for a second, shift, and then step back on the
> gas. I was told not to do this. Instead, to keep my foot on the gas
> and to pop the lever into overdrive.

If you are synchronizing this shift right you could actually be
decreasing the amount of slip. To shift into any higher gear, the
tranny needs to bring the engine rpm down, by letting off the gas you
could actually be helping it. (It uses clutch slip to bring the rpm
down, while you are using your foot.) However, as a general rule second
guessing the tranny is not a great idea. If it is preparing to make the
shift under power and you back off the throttle just then, wierd things
could be happening.

> The truck is an '84 F-150, 5.0, automatic. I've got the Park,
> Reverse, D with a circle around it indicating overdrive, another D
> with no circle meaning it's not in overdrive, and then a 1.
>
> I was wondering what is the proper procedure to pop the tranny into
> overdrive. It seems to shift gears while on the gas can do some
> harm to the tranny. I just wanted to make sure it was alright to do
> this since I do lose quite a bit of speed while doing this. Kinda
> hurts when you're on a stretch that goes from 35 MPh, to 45 MPh,
> then up to 55 Mph.

Your tranny is the infamous early AOD, not known for it's great
strength. A friend of mine drives an E-250 van with a 5.0 and AOD and
he is of the opinion that when he loaned it out for a trip to Mexico,
the driver left it in OD all the way down and that is what destroyed the
transmission. Then, as now, he always drives around with it in 3
range. Necessary? I don't know, but the amount of "gear hunting" that
tranny does between 3 and 4 worries me.

As usual, more than $.02,

Birken
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 11:16:13 -0600
From: "Baldwin, Dave (CPCP Design)"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Serious disappointment

Whoa!

I've noticed a lot of replies about this, and just want to make sure that
you don't jump off a bridge or anything. I have the same model year/engine
as you, and have always noticed the green fluid dripping out the tailpipe.
I've had it for four trouble-free years now, so there's no indication by
this that your vehicle is close to death.

I have had vehicles with blown head gaskets, and although the coolant goes
in the radiator with a "greenish" color, it always seems to come out clear
(with some soot, maybe) in the tailpipe. I'd think it would have to be
hosing some serious coolant out the exhaust port (cracked head) to have it
make it through the system with its original green color.

If it's just present after a morning start (winter mornings always seem to
bring more) and it goes away, I wouldn't freak yet. Not to say that you
shouldn't have it checked out, just a good chance that it is exhaust system
corrosion, and there's nothing to be worried about.

Dave.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Philip Thomason [mailto:ghost storm.ca]
Sent: Saturday, February 27, 1999 6:06 PM
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Serious disappointment


Well, last week or so I noticed a green fluid in my tailpipe after a
cold
night, and a morning start. I've been plugging in the block heater fairly
regularly. It's a '95 F-150 with a 302 V8 (code N)

The sad part is I bought the truck about 4 weeks ago (used). It's
now a
little past 30 days, the legal warranty I think I have in Ontario.

I'm really quite disappointed. I wanted a truck so much.

I've looked at the procedure for removing the heads (hoping it's
_just_ a
blown head gasket) but that task looks fairly daunting right now.

I'm hoping someone out there can tell me that this has happened
before,
and might even be a somewhat "normal" occurrence???

Thanks,
Phil


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 12:19:37 -0500 (EST)
From: DBblueboy webtv.net (Jerome Kelly)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - test message post

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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 10:14:42 -0700
From: "Gerald L. Hinkle Jr. CPA"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rear Axle Identification

I was wondering if one of you guys could tell me what rear end is present
under my 1994 F-350 CC 4x4. According to the VIN index of "C9" I have what
the manual refers to as a "Ford Traction Lock" with a 10 1/4" ring gear. I
have a Dana 60 Monobeam front end. Further info based upon the VIN axel
code is 3.55 gears with 6,250 lbs load maximum. I assume that the Ford
Traction Lock is a limited slip rear end. I thought the truck had Dana
60's in the front and rear but maybe not. The manual fails to mention what
rear end the Traction Lock spool and ring gear is housed in. Can Identify
the rear end by counting the cover bolts or observing the shape or
something? Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Jerry Hinkle Jr. CPA
"RULEMAKER" 94 F-350 Crew Cab 4x4
"LTS-ROK" 80 JEEP CJ-5
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 12:25:12 -0500 (EST)
From: DBblueboy webtv.net (Jerome Kelly)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Upgrade rear end and axle

I have a l987 F150. Can the rear end and axle be upgraded to a 3/4 or
one ton. If it
can, will it help its towing capacity? If so
how much. I like this truck and F250s are
rare and expensive in Ohio.




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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 10:34:27 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Chug-a-lug-lug

I have a brother-in-law with problems like this and I see these posts over
and over again and the only reason I have seen is water dripping through the
crack between the hood and the fender onto an electrical connector in the
fire wall or something.

This was not my brother-in-laws fix and he is still fighting with the dealer
on it. You can soak my 5.8 L all day in water and it never so much as misses
a beat.

What's the deal with I-6 engines and humidity?

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From:Wallace, Craig [SMTP:WallaceC emotors.com]
Sent:Monday, March 01, 1999 6:30 AM
To:Ford trucks Rule!
Subject:FTE 80-96 - Chug-a-lug-lug

Hey guys.

It's been a while since I posted anything. So here goes....

I have a '94 F150 automatic I6 300 4.9L. My problem has only
occured twice,
now. But the fact that it just recently happened for the second
time
worries
me. The first time was right after having my truck washed at a
"Touchless"
car wash. The car wash sprays from under the body to get any dirt
and salt
washed away. As soon as I was driving away, my truck started
"choking". It
acted as if it was not getting fuel properly or "missing" extremely
bad
(kind
of like someone just starting to learn to drive a manual
transmission). I
wrote it off as the electrical system getting wet since it shortly
went away
and was fine 'til this weekend. We had an extremely humid morning
on
Saturday and it happened again. And like the first time, went away
after
about five minutes and has been fine since. My best friend tells me
it
could
be the O2 sensor. I would like to know for sure if anybody has had
this
same
problem and if a bad O2 sensor would cause this type of problem.
Could the
moisture in the air and the carwash be just a coin-k-a-dink, or
directly
related?

Thanks to all responses in advance!
Craig Wallace
wallacec emotors.com

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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 10:42:03 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Serious disappointment

Does the fluid smell or feel like coolant?
Does your coolant level drop?
Does the truck over heat?
Is there white clumps in the oil?

If not it is probably just some condensation collecting contaminates from
the exhaust pipe or your cat. If coolant got in your exhaust you should be
able to smell it.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From:Philip Thomason [SMTP:ghost storm.ca]
Sent:Saturday, February 27, 1999 5:06 PM
To:80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject:FTE 80-96 - Serious disappointment

Well, last week or so I noticed a green fluid in my tailpipe
after a cold
night, and a morning start. I've been plugging in the block heater
fairly
regularly. It's a '95 F-150 with a 302 V8 (code N)

The sad part is I bought the truck about 4 weeks ago (used).
It's now a
little past 30 days, the legal warranty I think I have in Ontario.

I'm really quite disappointed. I wanted a truck so much.

I've looked at the procedure for removing the heads (hoping
it's _just_ a
blown head gasket) but that task looks fairly daunting right now.

I'm hoping someone out there can tell me that this has
happened before,
and might even be a somewhat "normal" occurrence???

Thanks,
Phil


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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 12:36:20 -0500
From: Greg Carter
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Rear Axle Identification

It's a Ford 10.25 which you already know, I have heard it referred to as the
"Sterling" rear, which may be the manufacture. But most people call it
"Ford 10.25". Since it is the F-350 it is the full float type. The 10.25
is on almost all 86-96 F250 - F350's, both semi (Light duty F250) and full
float, it may be used on 80-86 but I am not sure of that.
- ----
Greg Carter, Entrust Technologies
greg.carter entrust.com


> ----------
> From: Gerald L. Hinkle Jr. CPA[SMTP:2hinkles sprynet.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 01, 1999 12:14 PM
> To: ford trucks
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rear Axle Identification
>
> I was wondering if one of you guys could tell me what rear end is present
> under my 1994 F-350 CC 4x4. According to the VIN index of "C9" I have
> what
> the manual refers to as a "Ford Traction Lock" with a 10 1/4" ring gear.
> I
> have a Dana 60 Monobeam front end. Further info based upon the VIN axel
> code is 3.55 gears with 6,250 lbs load maximum. I assume that the Ford
> Traction Lock is a limited slip rear end. I thought the truck had Dana
> 60's in the front and rear but maybe not. The manual fails to mention
> what
> rear end the Traction Lock spool and ring gear is housed in. Can Identify
> the rear end by counting the cover bolts or observing the shape or
> something? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
>
> Jerry Hinkle Jr. CPA
> "RULEMAKER" 94 F-350 Crew Cab 4x4
> "LTS-ROK" 80 JEEP CJ-5
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>
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 13:39:46 -0500
From: John Valenti
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '83 F150 with bad transmission

Hi,

I've got an '83 F150, I6. I ruined the automatic transmission by towing
too heavy a load with it.
I've pretty much decided that I should start with a new truck, since
what I want to tow would be overweight for this truck anyway.

I called a transmission shop, they said it would probably be $500-600 to
repair, so I was thinking of just selling the truck as-is. It has
120,000miles on it, the engine runs pretty well, brakes are good, new
battery, bedliner, and has a Reese hitch. Oh, this is Michigan, so it's
got rust pretty bad. I was thinking about $400, does that sound
reasonable?

Any other bright ideas on making more from selling it? Thanks!

- --
* John Valenti Systems Analyst, Labor & Industrial Relations *
* 408 S Kedzie Hall, Michigan State University, E. Lansing, MI 48824 *
* (517) 353-1807 fax (517) 355-7656 valenti msu.edu *


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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 14:02:20 -0600
From: vince a smith
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Pilot bearing

About this pilot bearing, put one in a Nissan and had to take a small
drill and bit about the width of the bearing. I drilled about three or
four holes in it the took a cold chisel to it. Finally came out. Just my
2 cents
Good Luck.
Vince Smith
93 E150 5.0
61 Econoline Pickup 144 CI

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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 15:01:08 -0500
From: troyw mfi.net (Troy Williams)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Shifting into overdrive.

On 1 Mar 99, at 9:06, Vogt Family wrote:

>> I was speaking with someone earlier today and I was asking if
>> downshifting out of overdrive at around 50 MPH to slow the truck
>> down to a stop rather than letting the brakes do all the work was
>> harming the tranny any. I was told that it does no harm, in fact, it
>> does help the transmission and then it helps the brakes. I do this at
>> least once or twice per day, depending on which stop light I am getting
>> stopped at.
>
>I don't see how it could help the tranny any, but it does help the
>brakes...when an automatic shifts its clutches slip and the higher
>engine rpm it shifts at the more slip occurs. From OD to 3 range this
>shouldn't be very much, although the help to the brakes isn't very much
>either. For my money I will always adjust my speed or stop using the
>brakes only, and use the transmission to hold a speed I need, i.e. going
>down a long hill.

Well, the problem is when I let off the gas at around 50 to 55 MPh,
the truck doesn't slow down that much. My steering box needs to
be replaced. So when I hit the brakes to try and slow it down the
truck wants to wander around on me quite a bit so I don't like to
use the brakes at such a high rate of speed so that's why I have
been downshifting to let the drag of the engine drag itself down.

Next week I will be replacing the steering box and then I will able to
use the brakes alone.

>> I was also asking about shifting into overdrive while the truck is
>> moving. I was telling the person how I pop it into overdrive. I just
>> let up off the gas for a second, shift, and then step back on the gas.
>> I was told not to do this. Instead, to keep my foot on the gas and to
>> pop the lever into overdrive.
>
>If you are synchronizing this shift right you could actually be
>decreasing the amount of slip. To shift into any higher gear, the
>tranny needs to bring the engine rpm down, by letting off the gas you
>could actually be helping it. (It uses clutch slip to bring the rpm down,
>while you are using your foot.) However, as a general rule second
>guessing the tranny is not a great idea. If it is preparing to make the
>shift under power and you back off the throttle just then, wierd things
>could be happening.

Oh, normally upshift when the truck is stopped and let the thing
search for a few seconds until the speed limit is up. This is a
regular drive for me so I know the route pretty well. :)

>> The truck is an '84 F-150, 5.0, automatic. I've got the Park,
>> Reverse, D with a circle around it indicating overdrive, another D with
>> no circle meaning it's not in overdrive, and then a 1.
>>
>> I was wondering what is the proper procedure to pop the tranny into
>> overdrive. It seems to shift gears while on the gas can do some harm to
>> the tranny. I just wanted to make sure it was alright to do this since
>> I do lose quite a bit of speed while doing this. Kinda hurts when
>> you're on a stretch that goes from 35 MPh, to 45 MPh, then up to 55 Mph.
>
>Your tranny is the infamous early AOD, not known for it's great
>strength. A friend of mine drives an E-250 van with a 5.0 and AOD and he
>is of the opinion that when he loaned it out for a trip to Mexico, the
>driver left it in OD all the way down and that is what destroyed the
>transmission. Then, as now, he always drives around with it in 3 range.
>Necessary? I don't know, but the amount of "gear hunting" that tranny
>does between 3 and 4 worries me.

I heard form people to just leave it in overdrive unless I am
pulling/hauling something. Then there are others that are telling
me to leave it out of overdrive unless I am doing 45 MPh or more. If
I do anything more than 45 for an extended period of time without
all the stop and go traffic, then I just put it in ovderdrive and that's
the only time that it's used.

Did Ford ever recall these particular vehicles, or offer fixes for this
nuisance? I swear, I wish I had a standard rather than the tranny
that is in there right now.

Thanks for the info. Now I've just gotta break the habit of
downshifting before I try and stop the truck. :)

You might be a redneck if... You've ever hollered, 'Rock the house,
Bubba!' during a piano recital. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mfi.net/~troyw
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 17:22:55 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Lund Sunvisor Install '96 F350 CC

- --JEL-- said:
I'm planning on buying a Lund Sunvisor for my truck
('96 F-350 Crew Cab PSD 4x4) and have an autobody paint it.
I figure I'll save myself some bucks installing it
myself. Has anyone else done one and what does it
involve. I have OEM clearance lights on the roof
also. Am I asking for or will this be a pretty
easy task for two people to do. This is the one
without the lights built in.

I have not installed one myself because I'm afraid of rust, water leakage
around the screw holes, and wind noise. If you can bring yourself to
drill holes in the roof of your very nice truck, I would suggest using
stainless steel hardware and a good sealant both in and around the holes.
Better yet, get some Bondo and blend the visor cleanly into your roof.
I'm not kidding! Bondo work is easy (though tedious) and this way you
would have a seamless paint job which would keep water away from any bare
metal. It would also look very trick (and that's what you really want
anyway, isn't it?).

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150 300ci
'73 F100 360(?) FE


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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 15:21:37 -0800
From: Jim Cullen
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E-150 Van Lugging Problems

The first person to solve this problem (and his or her spouse) will be
treated to a free steak dinner
at the Outback Steak House in Las Vegas, NV, next time you're in town!

I have a 1986 Ford E-150 Van with 141,000 miles on it.
The engine is a 302-V8 with EFI and an automatic transmission.
The van has developed a problem that, to date, has baffled mechanics at 4
separate garages.
When the van is going up a hill -- even a hill with a fairly low grade --
it lugs down just before the
automatic transmission downshifts.
The problem seems to exist whether the engine is cold or hot.

Here's what I've done to date:

Midas Muffler did a test on the two catylitic converters and says that
they're not plugged.

Royal/Cotttman Transmission test drove the vehicle and said that the
transmission was fine.

I personally changed the fuel filter -- it's brand new.

The shop that I now use found that a previous shop...
Had put in the wrong heat-range spark plugs.
Had cranked the distributor as far over as it would go to the lean side.
My new shop fixed both of these problems and the car ran a tad better.

The shop that I now use
Found a plugged PCV valve and hose -- apparently there was a lot of gunk
in it.
They replaced the valve, hose and had the intake manifold hot-tanked.
Found that there was about 8 degrees of slop in the timing chain.
They replaced the chain set.
They cleaned the injectors.
They replaced that little check engine light down on the lower left of the
instrument panel.
The light hadn't worked since the day the vehicle was new.
It works now, but it just comes on for a second or so right after
start-up, like it's supposed to.
They said that they put the car on their $50,000 computer and nothing
showed up.
They said the various sensors seemed to be OK.

All of these repairs made the car run somewhat better, as you'd expect.
However, the car still lugs down on hills
just before it downshifts and the shop is starting to run out of ideas!

Actually, they have on idea left...
The fuel injectors have never been changed and they seem to recall that
Ford issued a
Service Bulletin about an upgrade to the injectors on this vehicle.
What's the likelihood that changing out the injectors will solve the problem.

Do you have any other ideas that might get my van running well again? My
wife and I really like the van.

Oh, we did try to get the local Ford dealer to work on the car but, because
we had not spent any money at his shop
in the past two years and because the car was more than 10 years old, he
refused to work on it.

Many thanks for all your help.
Hope you can come to Las Vegas and take us up on our offer!

Sincerely,

Carolyn and Jim Cullen



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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 18:53:21 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Trailer Towing

We are planning to rent a mid-size open trailer to tow behind our '86
F-150 302 EFI. Rental place says we are ok to use the OEM "ball-mount"
made into the bumper but we need a "four pin connector" to hook up the
trailer lights. The truck did not come with the OEM "trailer towing
package" mentioned in the owner's manual which appeared to include a
"wiring hookup" for trailers so it seems we must splice into the
taillight wiring to attach the four pin connector. Sure would
appreciate specific comments about how-to, how-not-to and any other
suggestions concerning the trailer as this is to be done tomorrow
(Tuesday 3/2/99) afternoon for use day-after-tomorrow (Wednesday
3/3/99). I know --- we waited till the last minute.
Thanks for any assistance.
Tom Gunby

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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 16:00:38 -0800
From: mparrott thomas.com (Michael Parrott)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Trailer Towing

If you are renting from U-haul, they should have & sale plug-in t-connectors. The plug-in t-connectors are a little more money, but they save your wiring from being spliced and left open for problems. I believe Walmart also carries a large stock of connectors, you may want to check...

Mike P


>
> We are planning to rent a mid-size open trailer to tow behind our '86
> F-150 302 EFI. Rental place says we are ok to use the OEM "ball-mount"
> made into the bumper but we need a "four pin connector" to hook up the
> trailer lights. The truck did not come with the OEM "trailer towing
> package" mentioned in the owner's manual which appeared to include a
> "wiring hookup" for trailers so it seems we must splice into the
> taillight wiring to attach the four pin connector. Sure would
> appreciate specific comments about how-to, how-not-to and any other
> suggestions concerning the trailer as this is to be done tomorrow
> (Tuesday 3/2/99) afternoon for use day-after-tomorrow (Wednesday
> 3/3/99). I know --- we waited till the last minute.
> Thanks for any assistance.
> Tom Gunby
>
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 19:20:30 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E-150 Van Lugging Problems

Jim Cullen wrote:
>
> The first person to solve this problem (and his or her spouse) will be
> treated to a free steak dinner
> at the Outback Steak House in Las Vegas, NV, next time you're in town!
>
> I have a 1986 Ford E-150 Van with 141,000 miles on it.
> The engine is a 302-V8 with EFI and an automatic transmission.

Mmmmmmmm Food

>
> Here's what I've done to date:
>
[Lot's o'stuff]

>
> Actually, they have on idea left...
> The fuel injectors have never been changed and they seem to recall that
> Ford issued a
> Service Bulletin about an upgrade to the injectors on this vehicle.
> What's the likelihood that changing out the injectors will solve the problem.
>
I wouldn't think so, unless accelleration is bad, too.

> Do you have any other ideas that might get my van running well again? My
> wife and I really like the van.
>
It the torque converter unlocking (assuming it's supposed to).

If the truck accellerates fine, then it's something to do with the
attitute of the truck (nose up). Check the fuel vents. Check the fuel
pump, too. I don't recall if an '86 is carburated or not, but if it is,
what's the float level like. And if it isn't, what about the air sensor,
some of these are little trap doors that may become foozled in a way
that would affect them on hills.

- --
Andre, (make mine rare ;-) Somewhere ...
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 19:55:35 -0500
From: Philip Thomason
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150/302 sadness

If you'll recall not long ago I posted a note about my disappointment in
finding "green fluid" in my tailpipe after a cold start...

Well, I'll be calling the dealer I bought my '95 F-150 from tomorrow to
see what they want to do, or are willing to do. The vehicle is about 1-2
weeks out of the 30 day warranty period.

I've been asking around and have found out the following...

If it was leaking coolant into the exhaust enough that I can see it at the
tailpipe, it shouldn't be running. I'm not sure about this. If it's a
very minor leak, I imagine that some coolant leaks into the cylinder during
the night/cooldown period, and gets expelled when I start it the next
morning. The counter to that arguement is that I should also be getting a
"fluid lock"? in the engine when I try to start it. It starts regularly
within 1-2 seconds or less of cranking.

I had the oil changed about 2 weeks ago, simply because it was rather
dirty. In that time, and approximately 1000-1500km, the engine has "used"
about 1 liter of oil. I can't really say that there's coolant in the oil,
although I've seen a couple of "bubbles" on the dipstick when checking at
the gas station. In other words, it's not obvious, to me. The tailpipe
does not have any noticeable carbon buildup in it, although it's fairly new.

Someone has mentioned that water in the exhaust (condensation, whatever)
may react with some of the metals in the catalytic converter and produce a
green substance... The green I'm seeing is similar to a 10% or less
mixture of coolant/water. I haven't tasted it, but it smelled sweet like
coolant.

I drew off a sample of coolant from the overflow tank, and let it sit for
an hour or two. Viewed from an angle it is "coolant green", but when
shining a light through it, it is distinctly brown. Viewed straight on, it
appears brown also. There did not _appear_ to be any oil in the coolant.

I've just gone out and run the truck for about 5 minutes or so, all the
while staring intently down into the radiator cap opening... (I imagine my
landlord thinks I'm a complete nut, out in the snow, staring into my
radiator, in the dark, with a flashlight...) Apparently, if coolant were
going out my exhaust, something else should be coming in. Well, there were
no bubbles in my coolant, and the temperature gauge reached normal. I did
notice some gold flecks floating about in the coolant which I suspect may
be some sort of "stop leak". The coolant in the radiator appears much
greener than that in the overflow, but it is dark out, and I was using a
flashlight.

Any opinions, views, and thoughts would be welcomed at this point. I
called a local Ford dealer and they quoted me about $1500-$1800 to change
the head gasket... I may attempt it myself, the parts are only $20-30
each, assuming I replace a head gasket and, intake, and exhaust gaskets at
the same time... Just a case of getting a warm place to do this...



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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 19:56:52 -0500
From: Bruce Ramirez
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E-150 Van Lugging Problems

I had the same problem. Check the fuel pump. Have the fuel pressure
checked at the fuel manifold.

Jim Cullen wrote:
>
> The first person to solve this problem (and his or her spouse) will be
> treated to a free steak dinner
> at the Outback Steak House in Las Vegas, NV, next time you're in town!
>
> I have a 1986 Ford E-150 Van with 141,000 miles on it.
> The engine is a 302-V8 with EFI and an automatic transmission.
> The van has developed a problem that, to date, has baffled mechanics at 4
> separate garages.
> When the van is going up a hill -- even a hill with a fairly low grade --
> it lugs down just before the
> automatic transmission downshifts.
> The problem seems to exist whether the engine is cold or hot.
>
> Here's what I've done to date:
>
> Midas Muffler did a test on the two catylitic converters and says that
> they're not plugged.
>
> Royal/Cotttman Transmission test drove the vehicle and said that the
> transmission was fine.
>
> I personally changed the fuel filter -- it's brand new.
>
> The shop that I now use found that a previous shop...
> Had put in the wrong heat-range spark plugs.
> Had cranked the distributor as far over as it would go to the lean side.
> My new shop fixed both of these problems and the car ran a tad better.
>
> The shop that I now use
> Found a plugged PCV valve and hose -- apparently there was a lot of gunk
> in it.
> They replaced the valve, hose and had the intake manifold hot-tanked.
> Found that there was about 8 degrees of slop in the timing chain.
> They replaced the chain set.
> They cleaned the injectors.
> They replaced that little check engine light down on the lower left of the
> instrument panel.
> The light hadn't worked since the day the vehicle was new.
> It works now, but it just comes on for a second or so right after
> start-up, like it's supposed to.
> They said that they put the car on their $50,000 computer and nothing
> showed up.
> They said the various sensors seemed to be OK.
>
> All of these repairs made the car run somewhat better, as you'd expect.
> However, the car still lugs down on hills
> just before it downshifts and the shop is starting to run out of ideas!
>
> Actually, they have on idea left...
> The fuel injectors have never been changed and they seem to recall that
> Ford issued a
> Service Bulletin about an upgrade to the injectors on this vehicle.
> What's the likelihood that changing out the injectors will solve the problem.
>
> Do you have any other ideas that might get my van running well again? My
> wife and I really like the van.
>
> Oh, we did try to get the local Ford dealer to work on the car but, because
> we had not spent any money at his shop
> in the past two years and because the car was more than 10 years old, he
> refused to work on it.
>
> Many thanks for all your help.
> Hope you can come to Las Vegas and take us up on our offer!
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Carolyn and Jim Cullen
>
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 20:04:21 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Trailer Towing

just go to your local auto parts store they have a clip[ in harness connector
that you attach under the rear bumper and it goives you the connecitble
lights.. very simple to do and costs about $14
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 20:18:18 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Chug-a-lug-lug

it could be an ignition wire too check them good
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 20:51:28 -0500 (EST)
From: chrislambeth email.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - need advice for engine swap

I am about to find my way into a 429/C6 combo, and I figure I might as well drop it into my 95 F-150. I am already planning to beef up the front suspension to accomodate the weight of a big block (the truck having a 302 in it now), replace the fuel sending unit with one that can get enough fuel to a 429, have a chip custom-burned so to alter the injector order as well as other stuff, drop the EFI stuff from a 460 on top of it, and re-do the exhaust and motor mounts. The questions are (1) would I be able to use the existing E4OD behind a 429, or would I need to take the tranny thats behind a 460, and (2) would replacing the sending unit be enough for the fuel system, or would I have to replace the whole fuel delivery system, lines and all? and (3) have I covered all the bases here or have I missed anything??

Any advice would be helpful at this point.

Thanks!

Chris Lambeth
chrislambeth email.com

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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 20:52:26 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E-150 Van Lugging Problems

Hey, how about sending a gift certificate instead?lol
Did the shop do a fuel pump pressure test? Did ford test the fuel injectors?
I wouldnt guess on the injectors, because they will cost you about 75 bucks
each. They can test them, and pinpoint the bad injector or injectors. but you
say it only does it when you climb hills? I hope your fuel tank is clean. did
you get alot of crap in the fuel filter when you changed it? Let us know how
you make out.

Joe
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:37:34 EST
From: DJ250r aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Trailer Towing

In a message dated 3/1/99 3:57:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gunby mindspring.com writes:


suggestions concerning the trailer as this is to be done tomorrow
(Tuesday 3/2/99) afternoon for use day-after-tomorrow (Wednesday
3/3/99). I know --- we waited till the last minute. >>
just go to a auto parts store and they should have a plug in connector that
will work thats what i did
dwayne jackson
so cal dezzz.
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 19:05:14 -0800
From: "Jonathan Freeman"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F-150 Fuel Pressure question

The saga continues...

I'm getting 30-31 psi the rail right now... I was told it's probably a bad
regulator, but I'm wondering if 30 psi is enough to start the truck.

Anyone know the stats on this?

1986 Ford F-150 XL /w the 302 EFI engine. Dual 19 gallon tanks.

Regards,

Jonathan


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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 20:06:00 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AOD vs AODE

Thanks for calling me on that one. I was not entirely sure of the intro
date for the 4R70W so I made a WAG.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: FLR150 aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, March 01, 1999 12:21 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AOD vs AODE


>Rade,
>I hate to tell you buddy, but my truck is definitely a 1994 model and I
have
>the 4R70W. I also know of another F150 that is a 1993 that has the 4R70W.
>No offense, just letting you know.
>Wayne Foy
>'94 Flareside SC
>"Hazardous Material"
> Wayne's Flareside Page
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>

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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 19:59:34 +0000
From: "Tom S."
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - RE: OD off light...

Dave Harmier wrote:

OK, you say "pops" out....PLEASE define!!! Mine looks great right now,
and
I don't want to screw it up! Would a knife blade or small flat
screwdriver....


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