80-96-list-digest Monday, February 22 1999 Volume 03 : Number 052



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Paint Re-call????
FTE 80-96 - Re: Paint Recall??
FTE 80-96 - Re: wiring for brake control
FTE 80-96 - Re: lifter click and rear diff
FTE 80-96 - new member/info request
Re: FTE 80-96 - Electrical Radiator Fan
Re: FTE 80-96 - Electrical Radiator Fan
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Paint Recall??
FTE 80-96 - Oil leaking
FTE 80-96 - Cable needed
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Paint Recall??
FTE 80-96 - RE: lifter click
FTE 80-96 - New Tailpipes
FTE 80-96 - rear diff
Re: FTE 80-96 - New Tailpipes
FTE 80-96 - Headlight trim
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cable needed
FTE 80-96 - Marine battery
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear diff
Re: FTE 80-96 - Marine battery
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Paint Recall??
FTE 80-96 - Oxygen Sensor

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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 06:26:22 -0700
From: Ken Justice
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Paint Re-call????

Hello Paul,

Definitely check with your dealer because there just may be a recall. I
had only heard rumors about a recall and checked with my dealer and it
was certainly worth my time! I got my '86 repainted for only $250 (they
required some body work before repainting).

Regards,

Ken Justice
Discover the Working Mat!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.workingmat.com

>
> Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 13:31:39 EST
> From: WoodStck45 aol.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Paint Re-call????
>
> Guys,
>
> We have a 1994 Ford F-250 H.D. XLT blueish/green pickup. Its is already
> forming a rust spot on the right rear fender! I have a 1991 and it has no
> rust on the right rear fender well. Also about 4 or 5 inches away from this
> rust spot (rust spot is about the size of a dime) there is another spot where
> the paint has started peeling. Its the size of a nickel, and its looks like a
> spider web. I wouldn't think it would do something like this as new as it is.
> Do any of you know of any paint re-calls or anything? I'm going to check with
> the dealer, but i'm probably just wasting my time.
>
> Thanks
> Paul
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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 05:27:52 PST
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Paint Recall??

Not to pick here, but my truck has been waxed *twice* in its entire
life. (17 years old now, waxed the day my grandfather bought it, and teh
day before I bought it and took it home) Other than the little nicks and
dings that accumulate and rust a little bit, there is no rust on the
truck. It doesn;t sound like any amount of wax would have helped this
situation.

Thanks,
Casey

>>>>>
You should have kept it Waxed.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 09:10:44 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: wiring for brake control

On Sat, 20 Feb 1999 19:43:35 -0800 Vogt Family writes:
>
>So long as they are factory connections back to the battery, I don't
>mind feeding the brakes off of factory wires. I like all my added
>wiring to look like it belongs there and this cleans up the
>installation
>as well. However, I will not have a fuse of any kind, or fuse link
>(other than the main Big Ole one) in the brake power feed, for
>obvious
>reasons. Auto circuit breaker only. Do you know where the feed is
>from in that factory connector?
>
According to Haynes, the factory feed comes from the underhood fuse box,
by way of a 30 amp fuse (fuse T on my '94). The instructions for the
Tekonsha 9030's I've installed call for a 20 amp breaker, 14 gauge wire
or better, and a direct power feed from (and direct ground to) the
battery. Your call.

>> Another note on trailer wiring: the connector that hangs
>under your
>> bumper is prone to corrosion, especially the 6-way round type.
>Steel
>> screws, brass terminals, moisture and voltage.... hmm, sounds like
>they
>> designed them to corrode so that they can sell you another one
>every
>> season. I use a 4-way flat (which is potted in plastic and less
>prone to
>> corrosion, also cheap) plus a quick-connect plug for the 5th wire
>
>I live in muddy California and never had any trouble with my brass
>set
>screw 6 way. If it became a problem I would remove the screws,
>solder
>the wires into the connector, and shrink tube them all.
>
In Indiana they salt the roads in the winter. Rust is a BIG issue
around here! I have a 6-way round in my toolbox that corroded into one
solid glob of rust inside. Yuk. The shrink tube idea is a good one,
though. I may try that.

>where to look on my '86? Was it available in that body style or only
>the next?
>
I believe the underdash connector became standard on 1992 models.
You'll most likely have to splice into the cold side of the stop light
switch on the brake pedal for your stop signal. Luckily, Fords are easy.
I've installed brake boxes on a chev pickup and a Suburpan (both mid-
80's) and nearly had to tear the dashes apart to access the wiring.

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150 300ci



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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 07:19:50 -0800 (PST)
From: rokkinhorse webtv.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: lifter click and rear diff

Paul, I have used ATF in the crankcase with no problems,but for a
different reason.I used to add a quart about 500 miles before changing
the oil.ATF is high in detergents that help to get and keep contaminants
in suspension.In short,it helps clean it IMHO.Be sure to drain some out
to keep from overfilling.If you have lifter noise,in most cases I have
seen this indicates valve train wear or a collapsed lifter.Im would try
the ATF trick,but the real solution is to find out why it makes the
noise in the first place.Could be a cam lobe flattening out,bent
pushrod,many variables.How many miles are on the engine? One final
caution on adding the trans fluid:If the inside of you engine is
exteremly dirty,the ATF may act to cut a bunch of crud loose plug the
oil filter and possibly plug an oil gallery/passage.Pull a valva cover
and see what the inside looks like.You could find your noisy lifter
while you are in there;if you see alot of sluge built up,don't try the
ATF.May be time to think about some engine work.My 85 F-250 recently got
a valve job,heads reconditioned and all new gaskets,due to a burnt
valve.It had 125,000 on it.The engine was clean inside due to excessive
oil=A0changing by me,and the cam and lifters also looke real good.There
was a small amout of galling on a few of the rocker pivots,but nowhere
near enough to consider their replacement.Hope this gives you some
ideas. On the rear differential,I would go with a Detroit Locker and be
done with it.IMO,any rear traction aiding devices that incorporate
clutches are a bad deal.I have heard many who have the Limited slip say
that the clutches are pretty well gone in 50,000 miles.There again,if
you are good with the wrenches,that may not be a problem.
Randy Goolsby 85 F250 / 94 Bronco EB

Randy Goolsby-94 Bronco EB/85 F250 4x4 =


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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 11:06:43 -0500 (EST)
From: throckmoreton webtv.net (mark sopp)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - new member/info request

I have an 89 F250 Lariat I bought new it has 170k on,and still runs
great.I have 2 questions.(1) Does anyone know where I can get a factory
service manual? (2) I have a seal leak in front transfer case where axle
enters.What can I expect in terms of difficulty and amount of time
involved. I have a garage that wants $650.00 to make repair.All help is
greatly appreciated. Thanx

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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 11:17:46 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Electrical Radiator Fan

Justen-
You won't really save a significant amount of weight with the electric fan
compared to the belt-driven fan. It's about a wash. But, you will reduce a
fair amount of power drain from the fan, particularly at higher revs (when
you are moving forward and don't really need the fan anyway). Also, at idle
speeds with the a/c on, the electric fan or fans (if done right, a big
"if") will put more air through the condenser and radiator than the
belt-driven fan. In that case, you are better off with them.

I looked into it and decided that the power gain was not enough to justify
all the electric fan conversion stuff. You might conclude otherwise. On my
I-6, I have the original flex fan that flattens out at higher RPM to reduce
power drain and I can live with that. (If you have one of these, remember
to check regularly for cracks in the flex part of the blades. It's not
pretty when they fail at high rpm.) I do not overheat here in Houston with
the A/C on in our famous "stop-and-stop traffic".

At 14:41 20/02/99 -0600, you wrote:
>I'm always looking to make my truck run better. A buddy suggested
>I remove the belt driven radiator fan and clutch and replace it with an
>electrical driven fan. He stated this would reduce the stress on my engine,
>especially when running the AC; and would help by reducing the weight
>of the vehicle by the amount of the clutch and the fan. My only hesitation
>is the cooling capability of the electrical fan. I live in central Texas so
>it is not unusual for it to reach 100+ in the summer.
>

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 10:06:52 -0800
From: "John R. Jetty"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Electrical Radiator Fan

One quick thought... What about both??? A flex and a eletric pusher?? This
is the set up on my dads Sidekick. We can go into Death Valley in the middle
of a summer day and run the ac and not get hot.

James


>Justen-
>You won't really save a significant amount of weight with the electric fan
>compared to the belt-driven fan. It's about a wash. But, you will reduce a
>fair amount of power drain from the fan, particularly at higher revs (when
>you are moving forward and don't really need the fan anyway). Also, at idle
>speeds with the a/c on, the electric fan or fans (if done right, a big
>"if") will put more air through the condenser and radiator than the
>belt-driven fan. In that case, you are better off with them.
>
>I looked into it and decided that the power gain was not enough to justify
>all the electric fan conversion stuff. You might conclude otherwise. On my
>I-6, I have the original flex fan that flattens out at higher RPM to reduce
>power drain and I can live with that. (If you have one of these, remember
>to check regularly for cracks in the flex part of the blades. It's not
>pretty when they fail at high rpm.) I do not overheat here in Houston with
>the A/C on in our famous "stop-and-stop traffic".
>


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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 14:49:30 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Paint Recall??

Hey Casey,
Its a good idea to wax your truck once a month, weather permitting. I have
owned many vehicles for many years, and never had one rust or paint damage for
me. And I used to drive in salt water, snow, road salt etc. I am not knocking
anyone, but from my experience, keep the paint lubricated and it wont fade
away.
I have used a special, easy to use wax for many years, and has done wonders
for my vehicles.Dont believe some of these waxes/polishes that say you can do
it every six months or once a year. I have 89 ford e-250s & f-250s with
original paint jobs that look brand new. That was a bad paint year. Good Luck.

Joe
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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 17:53:29 -0600
From: "Chuck"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oil leaking

I had a leaking oil pressure switch that appeared to be an oil pan leak
because it would drip around the oil filter (on a 302) and run along the oil
pan and into the trans, well, I replaced the switch, cleaned the pan and
ta-da! no leaks.

Now, for all those oil gage fluctuation problems that I have read about out
there, replacing that oil pressure switch caused my gage to jump into the
upper half of the dashboard gage, probably where it should be.

Chuck
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ionet.net/~dtra

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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 19:05:27 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Cable needed

I have an '87 F-350 with 2 yard dump body. There is a heavy duty
push-pull cable with a large black knob attached to a bracket on the
right side of the transmission hump. The cable controls the hydraulic
valve controlling the raising and lowering of the dump body.
Unfortunately, the PO routed the cable so that it lay on the exhaust
pipe, causing the plastic jacket to melt and fuse the whole thing solid.
The cable assembly is not a Ford part, and I am at a loss as to where to
find a replacement - none of the local auto parts places have them, and
there are no heavy truck places around. Does anyone have a mail order or
Web source of such things?

Mike

- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 19:44:40 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Paint Recall??

Yea, but Joe, you are in Florida (right?) and Casey is in Alaska. I'd bet
the weather and the sun are a lot more harsh in Florida than in Alaska.

At 14:49 21/02/99 EST, you wrote:
>Hey Casey,
>Its a good idea to wax your truck once a month, weather permitting. I have
>owned many vehicles for many years, and never had one rust or paint damage
for
>me. And I used to drive in salt water, snow, road salt etc. I am not knocking
>anyone, but from my experience, keep the paint lubricated and it wont fade
>away.
> I have used a special, easy to use wax for many years, and has done wonders
>for my vehicles.Dont believe some of these waxes/polishes that say you can do
>it every six months or once a year. I have 89 ford e-250s & f-250s with
>original paint jobs that look brand new. That was a bad paint year. Good
Luck.
>
> Joe
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 18:27:40 -0800
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: lifter click

Paul, I would try to track down the source of the [click] . Use a
length of PCV hose and stick one end in your ear and move the other around
the engine until the noise gets the loudest. Some catalogs (JCW) sell fancy
ones for about 10-15 dollars. Those have a metal tube that you can put
against your block or into small areas.

I had, what I thought was a lifter [tapping] as well. Dealer
couldn't find the problem, we both gave up. The first time I went to
change the spark plugs, I noticed that the passenger side, rear most, spark
plug was only hand tight. I thought that was odd. Once I put a new plug in
and made sure it was torqued correctly............whalla....no more [lifter]
tap. I guess it was the factory installed loose plug all the time. I know
it's odd, but it was a cheap fix...and I never would have guessed. So you
never know. Look for a simple problem and work your way up.

Walt

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 13:54:19 EST
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - lifter click

Paul

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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 18:29:59 -0800
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Tailpipes

Anyone know why the new F-150's have their tailpipes once again
dumping Behind the rear wheel like they always had; until the redesigned
F-150 came out a few years ago when they started to dump the exhaust in
Front of the rear wheel. I'm just curious. Walt
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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 21:40:37 EST
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - rear diff

Guys

I'd like to thank all you guys for your input on my rear differential. I have
a big hub with about 8 bolts in it between the 8 studs on my rear but i was
also told that i don't have to pull the axles to remove the rear drums. I
tried getting the rear drums off a couple of nights ago to check the brakes
and the darn things wouldn't come off for nothing. And, yes i did adjust the
brakes down. I did find a locker that i was very interested in. It is called
the Powertrax Lock Right (found at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://drivetrain.com). It lists for about
$320. Whether i have a dana 50, dana 60, 10.25 full float, or 10.25 semi-
float. i do not know yet but will soon find out. I really don't want to put a
limit-slip in because they way i figure, if i'm going to spend the money on a
different rear end and take the time to put it in, i might as well get a good
one that gives me power to both rear wheels all the time (except when making a
turn). Also i don't know if a limit slip would work all that great anyway
because one of the problems i have is when pulling a loaded gravity wagon full
of corn, one tire likes to break loose even on pavement when taking off from a
stop sign! Having no tongue weight what so ever is a slite problem. If any
of you guys have any input on this style locker let me know.

Thanks
Paul
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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 20:46:42 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Tailpipes

I seem to remember someone complaining that their right rear wheel cover,
hubcap, etc., was turning green over time because of the exhaust fumes
corroding the plating. Maybe that's why.

At 18:29 21/02/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Anyone know why the new F-150's have their tailpipes once again
>dumping Behind the rear wheel like they always had; until the redesigned
>F-150 came out a few years ago when they started to dump the exhaust in
>Front of the rear wheel. I'm just curious. Walt
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 19:58:28 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Headlight trim

I finally got around to pulling the headlight trim in an attempt to fix
my broken headlight adjuster. I don't remember who posted the info on
the location of the 2 7/16" nuts to remove the trim but it proved to be
very helpful. I would have been looking for a long time to find them.

Once the trim was off I was able to inspect the broken adjuster. It's a
'93 and has the extension rod that runs from under the hood to a small
gear and pinion set-up to adjust the height. The plastic that holds the
gear assembly together broke. Here is where my next problem lies. How
the hell do you remove the keeper clips that hold the headlight lens
into the framework. They have two rings that look like a snap-ring
plier would work on but I didn't have my pliers at home. And even with
a snap-ring plier I don't think they'd simply pull out. Has anyone seen
a tool that is made for removing these clips. I checked at AutoZone and
they had nothing. I got mine out but destroyed them in the process. I
still need to install the new adjuster so I need to take this all apart
again. Is there a tool or should I buy extra clips at the dealer to
replace the broken ones.

Dana
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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 23:05:59 EST
From: Hilofixer aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cable needed

jc whitney sells dump body kits for all kinds of trucks maybe them or would a
regular manual choke cable do the trick?? the last thought might be a
marine store perhaps a throttle cable could be adapted to the application you
require
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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 20:10:42 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Marine battery

I can't remember if I've asked this already so forgive me if I'm being
redundant. My '93 F350 has a marine battery in it. Had it when I
bought it(I don't know how old it is). My old truck, which I'm trying
to sell, has a two year old Sears Die Hard gold in it. Should I swap
them before I sell my old truck ot stick with the deep cycle? I've
heard differing opinions on deep cycles in an automotive application.
What do you think?

Dana
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Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 23:52:21 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear diff

Paul,
Sorry, I missed your original post, been away and have to catch up on
some reading here. Anyway, just to make sure you're clear on the
matter, a full-locker WILL be locked during a turn if you apply the
accelerator. The Detroit Locker will 'unlock' while you 'coast' around
a turn. I know they designed it this way, so I can't speak for any
other brand as to whether or not they too will release in a 'non-power'
turn. The Detroit has 5 degree angles on the carrier teeth that allow
it to disengage. Anyway, I think you already knew that you'd be locked
in a turn under acceleration, but I just wanted to be absolutely sure
you did. Sorry, again, if this had been covered in the earlier
postings. Don't know what model/year your truck is, I may be able to
help you figure out the axle, if you have an F-250, is it a heavy-duty
model? E-mail me off-list and I'll try to help.

Later,
Brew

WoodStck45 aol.com wrote:
>
> Guys
>
- -----snip-----
I really don't want to put a
> limit-slip in because they way i figure, if i'm going to spend the money on a
> different rear end and take the time to put it in, i might as well get a good
> one that gives me power to both rear wheels all the time (except when making a
> turn). Also i don't know if a limit slip would work all that great anyway
> because one of the problems i have is when pulling a loaded gravity wagon full
> of corn, one tire likes to break loose even on pavement when taking off from a
> stop sign! Having no tongue weight what so ever is a slite problem. If any
> of you guys have any input on this style locker let me know.
>
> Thanks
> Paul
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Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 01:44:22 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Marine battery

Hey,
Deep cycle batterys are made to run equipment on , like lights, power
accessories etc. they are not made to start a vehicle , because of the
cranking amps. You can use it. but its main purpose is to draw power from . It
will power accessories for a long time before quitting. A starting battery
with some heavy duty cold cranking amps is the way to go.


Joe
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Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 02:02:31 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Paint Recall??

Hey ,
I just moved to florida 5 years ago. But owned about 20 vehicles when I lived
in new york for 30 years. Im just a clean truck nut. I like to play and get it
dirty, but I also like it to turn heads too. The wax in the stores is junk.
maguires is ok. but everything else you will break your back using.I have
found some High quality , very effective products to maintain the finish on my
trucks. why do you think I wax them so much? Because the wax I use is EASY.

Its called Flash liquid carnauba wax.They have a site its flashwax.com. I wax
my e-250 van in about 35 minutes, Glass headlights, tail lights, everything.
My 89's look brand new. I just want to keep the value, so when its time to
sell I get my price and sell very quickly. Yes , the sun is tuff down here in
florida, But its no match for me.Casey has it rough up in alaska. Im sure the
weather is real cold. New york was cold enough and expensive enough for me, so
now im in Florida. Yeah , I got used to the heat. but it gets down to about 35
to 40 degrees on some winter nights. Take care guys.

Joe jsc721
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Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 04:29:35 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oxygen Sensor

I am trying to change the oxygen sensor in my '86 F-150 and having a
difficult time disconnecting the clip on the end of the pigtail.
Basically, I can't reach it though I'm 6'3" with long arms. I tried
from the front and sides but can only get one hand on the connector
(just barely can get both hands on it from the front but can't exert....


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