80-96-list-digest Sunday, February 21 1999 Volume 03 : Number 051



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
majordomo ford-trucks.com
with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list-digest" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Paint Re-call????
FTE 80-96 - lifter click and rear diff
FTE 80-96 - RE: Horsepower/torque etc.
Re: FTE 80-96 - lifter click and rear diff
FTE 80-96 - Whining.....86 F-150.
FTE 80-96 - RE: Horsepower/torque again!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Paint Re-call????
RE: FTE 80-96 - lifter click and rear diff
FTE 80-96 - REMOVE
Re: FTE 80-96 - lifter click and rear diff
Re: FTE 80-96 - Whining.....86 F-150.
Re: FTE 80-96 - lifter click and rear diff
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Archives are now searchable
FTE 80-96 - Electrical Radiator Fan
FTE 80-96 - Re: wiring for brake control
FTE 80-96 - Re: wiring for brake control

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 13:31:39 EST
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Paint Re-call????

Guys,

We have a 1994 Ford F-250 H.D. XLT blueish/green pickup. Its is already
forming a rust spot on the right rear fender! I have a 1991 and it has no
rust on the right rear fender well. Also about 4 or 5 inches away from this
rust spot (rust spot is about the size of a dime) there is another spot where
the paint has started peeling. Its the size of a nickel, and its looks like a
spider web. I wouldn't think it would do something like this as new as it is.
Do any of you know of any paint re-calls or anything? I'm going to check with
the dealer, but i'm probably just wasting my time.

Thanks
Paul
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 13:54:19 EST
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - lifter click and rear diff

Guys

I have a 1991 Ford F-250 pickup. Its got a stock 460 in it. I keep hearing
this clicking noise when the engine is running and have ruled the problem out
to it being a rocker arm click against the valve or vise versa. I heard a
rumor that if you pour in a cap full of tranny oil (maybe dextron mercon 2 or
3) it will make it quit clicking. I have never heard of this before, but was
just womdering your thoughts on it. Does it work, or is it the last thing you
would want to do? Dad says the only way to get it to quit clicking is fix the
darn thing right, but i don't have the time to do it. ANyoen have any ideas?

Also, on my truck i have a standard open differential (3:55 ratio). The left
tire will not spin for nothing. I looked at some lockers and liked the idea
of the power trax locker i found at (www.powertrax.com) I want both rear
wheels to turn all the time, (except when going around a corner). I don't want
a locker that when one tire slips it puts the power to the other side. The
locker i looked at said it has clutches in it and it will always give you
posi-trac except when you go around a corner it will un-lock the re-lock
again. Does this sound like a good locker? Or is it a piece of crap that
will last for 2 months then the clutches will burn out. It asks you for your
axle type (ex: dana 50, dana 60) but i don't know which axle i have. I
thought it was stamped on the rear of it on the right side but i can't find
it. Do you guys know how to identify it? Any coments, answers, or
suggestions towards these two problems will be GREATLY appreciated. It gets
annoying to have a rocker arm click and only have one rear tire pull when you
your stuck in a cattle lot with a 28 foot trailer behind you!

Thanks
Paul
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 13:31:20 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Horsepower/torque etc.

wish wrote:

>There's no replacement for displacement.

>Just my 2cents

>wish

The actual quote is "There's no substitute for cubes!" I wish I knew who
said it!!!

Dave H.
92 F-150 S/C 5.0 >POS!- E4OD
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 11:44:01 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - lifter click and rear diff

I am sure you'll get a lot of input on the type of Locker to use. It's basically
going to be a decision based on your usage. If the clutch idea bothers you,
there's always the ARB locker(I think it is one of the spendier units available).

As far as the type of rear end you have, you need to look at the axle from the
back, a perfectly oval shape carrier with a rear cover is the 8.8" (not likely on
a F250), if it's oval to a tapered flat side it's a Dana series.(60, more than
likely).
If you see no rear cover at all, it's a 9" rear end.

If you look at the driver's side door post, you'll see the sticker that has the
build info on your rig, it should have a Transmission code listed there. That code
can be found in most good repair manuals(Chilton's, Haynes, etc.).

Good Luck,
Bob


WoodStck45 aol.com wrote:

> Guys
>
> I have a 1991 Ford F-250 pickup. Its got a stock 460 in it. I keep hearing
> this clicking noise when the engine is running and have ruled the problem out
> to it being a rocker arm click against the valve or vise versa. I heard a
> rumor that if you pour in a cap full of tranny oil (maybe dextron mercon 2 or
> 3) it will make it quit clicking. I have never heard of this before, but was
> just womdering your thoughts on it. Does it work, or is it the last thing you
> would want to do? Dad says the only way to get it to quit clicking is fix the
> darn thing right, but i don't have the time to do it. ANyoen have any ideas?
>
> Also, on my truck i have a standard open differential (3:55 ratio). The left
> tire will not spin for nothing. I looked at some lockers and liked the idea
> of the power trax locker i found at (www.powertrax.com) I want both rear
> wheels to turn all the time, (except when going around a corner). I don't want
> a locker that when one tire slips it puts the power to the other side. The
> locker i looked at said it has clutches in it and it will always give you
> posi-trac except when you go around a corner it will un-lock the re-lock
> again. Does this sound like a good locker? Or is it a piece of crap that
> will last for 2 months then the clutches will burn out. It asks you for your
> axle type (ex: dana 50, dana 60) but i don't know which axle i have. I
> thought it was stamped on the rear of it on the right side but i can't find
> it. Do you guys know how to identify it? Any coments, answers, or
> suggestions towards these two problems will be GREATLY appreciated. It gets
> annoying to have a rocker arm click and only have one rear tire pull when you
> your stuck in a cattle lot with a 28 foot trailer behind you!
>
> Thanks
> Paul
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 13:45:19 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Whining.....86 F-150.

I would almost bet large bucks that your fuel pump (the rail mounted one
about under where you sit) is doing the noise. Mine moans and whines, but
it ain't quit yet.......

Dave H.
92 F-150
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 13:36:27 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Horsepower/torque again!

Chris writes:

>It is easy to make as much horsepower with a 302 but try making as much
>torque as the 351! A stock 302 barely makes more torque than the
>I6...and even then the I6 make sit torque at lower RPM.

>All of us that drive trucks know we NEED TORQUE!
>Chris
>94 Lightning #381

Our 88 F-150 4.9 I-6 was much torquier than my 92 5.0...no question!!!

There was a quote in Car and Driver that went " People buy horsepower, but
they love torque" Ain't it the TRUTH!

Dave H.
92 F-150 S/C 5.0 Lousy E4OD!
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 16:23:52 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Paint Re-call????

You should have kept it Waxed.
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 16:23:10 -0500
From: Greg Carter
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - lifter click and rear diff

On F250's of that year the most common is the Ford 10.25 rear end. If its
not full floating your choice of rear locker is limited and may be none.

The axle code's for 91 with 3.55 gears are(inside drivers door, look under
axle, first two digits):
Code - Make - Rating
19 - Ford - 3800 lb - probably not on an F250
29 - Ford - 5300 lb
39 - Ford - 6250 lb
49 - Ford - 7400 lb
69 - Ford - 8250 lb - my guess would be a dually perhaps even for 7500 lb

There were no Dana axles available with 3.55, at least according to my
owners manual. The only Dana's listed have huge ratings of 11000 lbs, so
are probably for the Commercial series.

Limited slip

H9 - Ford - 3800 lb
B9 - Ford - 5300 lb

Any other code and you don't have 3.55 gears.

I have the B9 axle, and it is semi floating, so I would expect that anything
under 5300 lb is also semi. Easiest way to find out if you have full
floating is to go look at the axle, right at the tire. If there is a large
hub inside the 8 wheel studs which itself has about 8 bolts on it, you have
a full float. If you can remove the rear brakes without removing the rear
axles you don't have a full float.

Anything but a Detroit locker in the back, with the exception of the ARB,
will probably wear out. The Detroit will last the life of the truck. Again
you can't get a Detroit for a semi float, I don't think you can get a Power
Trax Lock Right but best to check, and an ARB cost so much it wasn't really
an option. I would rather swap in a full float and put in a Detroit.
Although the Detroit for a Ford 10.25 isn't cheap, mine cost me $487 US. I
am in the process of finding a used full float axle to put it in.

If you aren't into serious 4x4ing you might just want to find a limited slip
at a junk yard from a 86 and up. This is what I have in my truck now and it
works fine for everything but serious off road (one tire in the air or axles
high centered in mud). If you happen to be in the Eastern Ontario region
(Canada) I have a used 3.55 limited slip for sale :). If you are into 4x4
you probably want to change gears while you have it apart so you can run
bigger tires. The highest ratio you can go to is 4.56 with that rear end.
If you have a Dana 50 front then you are limited to 4.10s, however you can
swap out just the diff of the Dana 50 and put in a Dana 44 from any Bronco
or F150, then you can go to 4.56 in the front. If you have the Dana 60
front (non IFS front) then you are in luck and don't have the limitations
that a Dana 50 bring.

Good luck.

> ----------
> From: Bob Kennedy[SMTP:bobkennedy uswest.net]
> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 1999 2:44 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - lifter click and rear diff
>
> I am sure you'll get a lot of input on the type of Locker to use. It's
> basically
> going to be a decision based on your usage. If the clutch idea bothers
> you,
> there's always the ARB locker(I think it is one of the spendier units
> available).
>
> As far as the type of rear end you have, you need to look at the axle from
> the
> back, a perfectly oval shape carrier with a rear cover is the 8.8" (not
> likely on
> a F250), if it's oval to a tapered flat side it's a Dana series.(60, more
> than
> likely).
> If you see no rear cover at all, it's a 9" rear end.
>
> If you look at the driver's side door post, you'll see the sticker that
> has the
> build info on your rig, it should have a Transmission code listed there.
> That code
> can be found in most good repair manuals(Chilton's, Haynes, etc.).
>
> Good Luck,
> Bob
>
>
> WoodStck45 aol.com wrote:
>
> > Guys
> >
> > I have a 1991 Ford F-250 pickup. Its got a stock 460 in it. I keep
> hearing
> > this clicking noise when the engine is running and have ruled the
> problem out
> > to it being a rocker arm click against the valve or vise versa. I heard
> a
> > rumor that if you pour in a cap full of tranny oil (maybe dextron mercon
> 2 or
> > 3) it will make it quit clicking. I have never heard of this before,
> but was
> > just womdering your thoughts on it. Does it work, or is it the last
> thing you
> > would want to do? Dad says the only way to get it to quit clicking is
> fix the
> > darn thing right, but i don't have the time to do it. ANyoen have any
> ideas?
> >
> > Also, on my truck i have a standard open differential (3:55 ratio). The
> left
> > tire will not spin for nothing. I looked at some lockers and liked the
> idea
> > of the power trax locker i found at (www.powertrax.com) I want both
> rear
> > wheels to turn all the time, (except when going around a corner). I
> don't want
> > a locker that when one tire slips it puts the power to the other side.
> The
> > locker i looked at said it has clutches in it and it will always give
> you
> > posi-trac except when you go around a corner it will un-lock the re-lock
> > again. Does this sound like a good locker? Or is it a piece of crap
> that
> > will last for 2 months then the clutches will burn out. It asks you for
> your
> > axle type (ex: dana 50, dana 60) but i don't know which axle i have. I
> > thought it was stamped on the rear of it on the right side but i can't
> find
> > it. Do you guys know how to identify it? Any coments, answers, or
> > suggestions towards these two problems will be GREATLY appreciated. It
> gets
> > annoying to have a rocker arm click and only have one rear tire pull
> when you
> > your stuck in a cattle lot with a 28 foot trailer behind you!
> >
> > Thanks
> > Paul
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 16:59:35 EST
From: Natedog199 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - REMOVE

PLEASE TAKE ME OFF THIS LIST.! THANK YOU
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 17:43:01 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - lifter click and rear diff

Forget the ATF. Next time a few days before you plan on changing oil
anyway, pour 8 oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil in oil filler and drive like
normal. If that does not free it up, you need to pull lifter and clean
(possibly replace). It's kind of a pain to do because of all the stuff you
have to remove to get to the lifter.

I mistook a noise like this not long ago as a lifter noise and it wasn't.
It was an injector. A can of injector cleaner in a half tank of gas cleared
it up.

Good luck.

At 13:54 20/02/99 EST, you wrote:
>Guys
>
>I have a 1991 Ford F-250 pickup. Its got a stock 460 in it. I keep hearing
>this clicking noise when the engine is running and have ruled the problem out
>to it being a rocker arm click against the valve or vise versa. I heard a
>rumor that if you pour in a cap full of tranny oil (maybe dextron mercon 2 or
>3) it will make it quit clicking. I have never heard of this before, but was
>just womdering your thoughts on it. Does it work, or is it the last thing
you
>would want to do? Dad says the only way to get it to quit clicking is fix
the
>darn thing right, but i don't have the time to do it. ANyoen have any
ideas?
>

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 19:00:32 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Whining.....86 F-150.

Dave-
Thanks for the suggestion. I am running out of things to try. So far
have checked coolant, checked vacuum hoses, replaced power steering pump,
replaced power brake booster, replaced all drive belts and tried disconnecting
the air pump. It still whines. Guess that leaves the alternator and water
pump as candidates along with the fuel pump as you mentioned. Will get under
the truck and examine the fuel pump.
Thanks.
Regards,
Tom Gunby

Dave Harmier wrote:

> I would almost bet large bucks that your fuel pump (the rail mounted one
> about under where you sit) is doing the noise. Mine moans and whines, but
> it ain't quit yet.......
>
> Dave H.
> 92 F-150
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 21:51:04 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - lifter click and rear diff

Paul,
I was recently faced with the same differential dilemma. I ended up going with
the posi style locker out of an '93 Mustang 8.8". I found it in a junkyard out
of a stang that had only 45000 miles on it. I am also replacing the 2.73 ratio
that came in the locker with 4.10 ratio gears. I have checked and rechecked
the rpm levels and such and I shouldn't have much problem with overrevving the
motor while on the highway.
Just a suggestion,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside Page

In a message dated 2/20/99 2:01:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
WoodStck45 aol.com writes:


left
tire will not spin for nothing. I looked at some lockers and liked the idea
of the power Trax locker I found at (www.powertrax.com) I want both rear
wheels to turn all the time, (except when going around a corner). I don't
want
a locker that when one tire slips it puts the power to the other side. The
locker I looked at said it has clutches in it and it will always give you
posi-trac except when you go around a corner it will un-lock the re-lock
again. Does this sound like a good locker? Or is it a piece of crap that
will last for 2 months then the clutches will burn out. It asks you for your
axle type (ex: Dana 50, Dana 60) but I don't know which axle I have. I
thought it was stamped on the rear of it on the right side but I can't find
it. Do you guys know how to identify it? >>
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 21:47:48 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Archives are now searchable

Searchable archives are now on the web site. All 60+
megabytes of archives are searchable. Due to the
nature of searching, the archive results are email
address "harvester" resistant. You can only browse
the archives with search terms and harvesters are not
smart enough to do that.

Enjoy!

KePayne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 14:41:03 -0600
From: "Justen R. Noakes"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Electrical Radiator Fan

I'm always looking to make my truck run better. A buddy suggested
I remove the belt driven radiator fan and clutch and replace it with an
electrical driven fan. He stated this would reduce the stress on my engine,
especially when running the AC; and would help by reducing the weight
of the vehicle by the amount of the clutch and the fan. My only hesitation
is the cooling capability of the electrical fan. I live in central Texas so
it is
not unusual for it to reach 100+ in the summer.

All thoughts and feedback are appreciated.

Justen Noakes
'95 F150
4.9 L, 5 spd


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 19:43:18 -0800
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: wiring for brake control

On Fri, 19 Feb 1999, Paul M Radecki wrote:
>
> and I like to use heavier gauge wire than
> the factory hookups use, anyway.

So long as they are factory connections back to the battery, I don't
mind feeding the brakes off of factory wires. I like all my added
wiring to look like it belongs there and this cleans up the installation
as well. However, I will not have a fuse of any kind, or fuse link
(other than the main Big Ole one) in the brake power feed, for obvious
reasons. Auto circuit breaker only. Do you know where the feed is from
in that factory connector?

> I had a
> Ranger once that used to belong to a volunteer fireman; I think I
> lightened the truck by 20 lbs after pulling out all the "GNDN" (Goes
> Nowhere Does Nothing) wiring that used to power his lights, radios, and
> other accessories!

The truck in question, which I just bought, was much the same way.

> Another note on trailer wiring: the connector that hangs under your
> bumper is prone to corrosion, especially the 6-way round type. Steel
> screws, brass terminals, moisture and voltage.... hmm, sounds like they
> designed them to corrode so that they can sell you another one every
> season. I use a 4-way flat (which is potted in plastic and less prone to
> corrosion, also cheap) plus a quick-connect plug for the 5th wire

I live in muddy California and never had any trouble with my brass set
screw 6 way. If it became a problem I would remove the screws, solder
the wires into the connector, and shrink tube them all. I like the fact
that the 6 way locks in. I am always thinking of those brakes, which
can mean the difference between life and death.

Since you seem to know so much about the factory wiring, can you tell me
where to look on my '86? Was it available in that body style or only
the next?

Birken
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 19:43:35 -0800
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: wiring for brake control

On Fri, 19 Feb 1999, Paul M Radecki wrote:
>
> and I like to use heavier gauge wire than
> the factory hookups use, anyway.

So long as they are factory connections back to the battery, I don't
mind feeding the brakes off of factory wires. I like all my added
wiring to look like it belongs there and this cleans up the installation
as well. However, I will not have a fuse of any kind, or fuse link
(other than the main Big Ole one) in the brake power feed, for obvious
reasons. Auto circuit breaker only. Do you know where the feed is from
in that factory connector?

> I had a
> Ranger once that used to belong to a volunteer fireman; I think I
> lightened the truck by 20 lbs after pulling out all the "GNDN" (Goes
> Nowhere Does Nothing) wiring that used to power his lights, radios, and
> other accessories!

The truck in question, which I just bought, was much the same way.

> Another note on trailer wiring: the connector that hangs under your
> bumper is prone to corrosion, especially the 6-way round type. Steel
> screws, brass terminals, moisture and voltage.... hmm, sounds like they
> designed them to corrode so that they can sell you another one every
> season. I use a 4-way flat (which is potted in plastic and less prone to
> corrosion, also cheap) plus a quick-connect plug for the 5th wire....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.