80-96-list-digest Friday, February 19 1999 Volume 03 : Number 049



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Harry's U-Pull It in Hazelton Pennsylvania.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Harry's U-Pull It in Hazelton Pennsylvania.
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: pilot bearing
FTE 80-96 - 300 CI switch over to 351windsor how hard is it?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Metrinch tools
Re: FTE 80-96 - Noise
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Filter Connector
FTE 80-96 - Intakes
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Filter Connector
FTE 80-96 - Whine
FTE 80-96 - Pilot shaft
RE: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Filter Connector
FTE 80-96 - Re: Running wires from brake control...
FTE 80-96 - timing/mixture problem
FTE 80-96 - Re: Running wires from brake control...
Re: FTE 80-96 - timing/mixture problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 CI switch over to 351windsor how hard is it?
FTE 80-96 - Oxygen Sensor
FTE 80-96 - Transmission
RE: FTE 80-96 - Oxygen Sensor
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oxygen Sensor
Re: FTE 80-96 - Harry's U-Pull It in Hazelton Pennsylvania.
Re: FTE 80-96 - timing/mixture problem
FTE 80-96 - GAS TANK
Re: FTE 80-96 - GAS TANK

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 07:14:46 -0500
From: EJ
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Harry's U-Pull It in Hazelton Pennsylvania.

Greetings all. Anybody been to Harry's ?. I seem to recall some mention
of this at some point, somewhere in the past.

I see in the commercials that all cars are suppossed to be off the
ground, and they have some ridiculous amount of acerage there(thought
they might have said a 100 in the commercial). Anyway, are the cars
seperated/organized by make or manufacturer to make things easy to find?
Or should I take a sleeping bag, and expect to only be able to write
home on weekends ? ;).

TIA
EJ
- --
"EJ" In Hamilton Township, New Jersey, suburb of Trenton
On digest where availabile, not regular mail
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/Olds_luvr/photoalbum/photoalbum/index.html
E-Mail: oldsluvr bellatlantic.net
The "Fleet"
1979 Pontiac "Olds organ donor" Trans Am T-tops Rebuilt Olds 6.6L 403
4bbl-TH350 Performer Cam and Intake.....going into the Calais
For Sale.
1984 Olds Cutlass Calais T-Tops 5.0L 307 4bbl-TH350-2.14 gears K+N.....
soon to be 6.6L 403 4bbl, and hopefully some better "rear" gears
1985 Olds Toronado 5.0L 307 4bbl-AOD(newly acquired Sept. 98).
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Moonroof 5.0L 302 EFI HO-AOD-3.27 gears
inner fender baffle removed-K+N.
1992 Ford F-250 Reg-Cab 4WD 7.5L 460 EFI-E4OD Auto-3.55 gears.
3-inch converter-dual outlet flowmaster 3 chamber.
Complete K+N(no more factory air-box)-ADS Super Chip-Spitfires-
Accel Super Coil-Cap-Rotor & 8.8 wires.
1994 Toyota Camry Sedan 4-banger-(Wow we could have had a V6!)-"mili
-liter"-AOD. K+N (why did I even bother, still a slug!)
My SO's rider
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 08:21:45 -0800
From: Pat Murphy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Harry's U-Pull It in Hazelton Pennsylvania.

EJ,
I have not been there for a bit, But the did have the cars and trucks
seperated out pretty well. I would call first to make shure they have
what you need.( went up to get a windshield, left empty handed, a week
later they had 6 ). If you go up there you can also check out Hazle
Auto parts - 150 acres. There # is (717-459-1415). They are located
on Route 309 South Hazleton. Good luck.

Pat Murphy
89 F-250 4x4 Iron Dog
82 CB900F SS "yes its fast"

EJ wrote:
>
> Greetings all. Anybody been to Harry's ?. I seem to recall some mention
> of this at some point, somewhere in the past.
>
> I see in the commercials that all cars are suppossed to be off the
> ground, and they have some ridiculous amount of acerage there(thought
> they might have said a 100 in the commercial). Anyway, are the cars
> seperated/organized by make or manufacturer to make things easy to find?
> Or should I take a sleeping bag, and expect to only be able to write
> home on weekends ? ;).
>
> TIA
> EJ
> --
> "EJ" In Hamilton Township, New Jersey, suburb of Trenton
> On digest where availabile, not regular mail
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/Olds_luvr/photoalbum/photoalbum/index.html
> E-Mail: oldsluvr bellatlantic.net
> The "Fleet"
> 1979 Pontiac "Olds organ donor" Trans Am T-tops Rebuilt Olds 6.6L 403
> 4bbl-TH350 Performer Cam and Intake.....going into the Calais
> For Sale.
> 1984 Olds Cutlass Calais T-Tops 5.0L 307 4bbl-TH350-2.14 gears K+N.....
> soon to be 6.6L 403 4bbl, and hopefully some better "rear" gears
> 1985 Olds Toronado 5.0L 307 4bbl-AOD(newly acquired Sept. 98).
> 1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Moonroof 5.0L 302 EFI HO-AOD-3.27 gears
> inner fender baffle removed-K+N.
> 1992 Ford F-250 Reg-Cab 4WD 7.5L 460 EFI-E4OD Auto-3.55 gears.
> 3-inch converter-dual outlet flowmaster 3 chamber.
> Complete K+N(no more factory air-box)-ADS Super Chip-Spitfires-
> Accel Super Coil-Cap-Rotor & 8.8 wires.
> 1994 Toyota Camry Sedan 4-banger-(Wow we could have had a V6!)-"mili
> -liter"-AOD. K+N (why did I even bother, still a slug!)
> My SO's rider
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 08:13:21 -0600
From: Roger Lane
Subject: Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: pilot bearing

Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 18:09:18 -0600
From: Geoffrey Schrag
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: pilot bearing

Azie wrote-Are you sure you are having this problem with the "Throw out"
bearing. It
sounds as if you are trying to get the "Pilot shaft" bearing out of the
rear of
the crankshaft. IF this is the case, DO NOT heat it with a torch, nor beat
it
with a hammer and chisel.

-Sorry, I did mean to say pilot bearing. Well, I tried pulling the pilot
bearing out with a couple of different pullers-screw and slide hammer type.
The center piece of the bearing came out, but the outer ring with the
notches on the back side is stuck fast. Anyone have any ideas how to get
this out?-I tried doing the hydraulic method too-packing it with grease and
pounding a dowel of similar diameter through the hole.

- - -Any help would be much appreciated

thanks,

Geof Schrag
1980 bronco
351M, 4sp

Had the same problem on my 300 I6. Had to use a chisel and cut it out.
Needless to say I replaced it with a solid one! ($2 local parts store.)

Roger Lane
Test/Support Analyst
(402)241-3570
Roger.Lane IBPINC.COM

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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 06:20:36 PST
From: "Steve Likness"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300 CI switch over to 351windsor how hard is it?

Toolman wrote:
>>How hard is it to switch out my 6cyl for a v8 i already had my motor
out twice so that part I have licked,I just need to know what
modifications I would have to make to the mounts and if they have to be
change also

Thanks Toolman

I'm in the middle of changing out my 300 I6 for a 351W in my '82 F150.
I purchased a remanufactured long block and I'm piecing the rest
together. I'm very concerned about keeping it street legal and passing
the inspections. I have taken a few chances and stretched the intent of
the inspections in some areas so I may have to go to arbitration on some
of the issues.

I purchased a lot of parts from Summit Racing and they have been very
helpful, PAW (Performance Auto Works) has an awesome catalog and
terrific prices. Other parts, I had to purchase from the Ford parts
department. The mounts look like they will be easy to change, the
accesory brackets and the vacuum/smog network will drive you crazy
though. My 6 had two towers mounted to the cross member on front.
These were bolted on and with a little sweat and a few grunts, I was
able to remove them. The new mounts are bolted directly to the side
frame rails and also tie on the side to the cross member. My C6 tranny
has the same bolt pattern, so it should hook right up. The flex plate
looks the same on the I6, but the 351W requires a 28.2 oz. weight on the
flex plate. Following is the list of parts so far:

Advanced Auto:
Recon remanufactured 351W long block
Distributer
Coil
Oil sending unit
Temp sending unit
Engine mounts
Thermostat and housing
Fuel pump
EGR valve
Smog pump
Summit racing:
Edelbrock intake
Edelbrock 600 cfm electric choke 4V carb
Miloden stock oil pan and pick up
Taylor braided plug wires
ARP bolt set for 351W
Ford Motorsport valve covers
Edelbrock air cleaner
PAW
Flexplate
Timing chain cover
K&N breather
Aluminum PCV valve
Braided hoses for vacuum and fuel
Truck performance center
Thorley Headers (the only street legal headers that I could find
for an '82 F150)
Local Ford Parts counter
Harmonic balancer
Crank pulley
Frame mounts for the motor
Probably will purchase brackets here also

I chose to purchase most of my peripheral parts new rather than from a
junk yard. I found that I could, for the most part, purchase new for
just a few dollars more than from the yard, as an example:

Used stock oil pan: $75 + shipping (about $15)
Miloden stock pan: $95 + $5.95 shipping/handling

And the engine looks really nice! I hope that it runs as good as it
looks. The '82 F150 is not supposed to have, strictly speaking, a 4V
carb. The EPA requirements show 2V only. Also, I'm going to build a
dual cat exhaust and EPA does not want the location of the original cat
moved.

I would never have taken on this project, except that my 15 year old son
is a real gearhead. So, I thought I would give him the opportunity to
really get his hands dirty. It has also been a great education for me.
Most problems can be resolved with a lot of reading, help from folks
like FTE and vendors, a little logic, a lot of luck, some good hand
cleaner, and a lot of patience.

Hope this helps,

Steve

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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 08:42:48 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Metrinch tools

> a. The design allows slack before they grab the nut/bolt, so that
>means that in tight spots they aren't very good.
>
This slop always scares me, its usually a sign of impending roundness ...

> b. They grab so well on the sides of the nut that often I have to
>reverse the action to break the socket loose from the nut, cause they
>stick.
>
At least they stick I guess, but I wonder about really rusty bolts, it
would work great on these "new" trucks, but try using them on my 73. I
think I've probably twisted off almost as many bolts as I've removed (not
really, but the scars on the knuckles seem that way)... just seems like the
right tool for the right job is always the best way to go. If they work
for you though, more power to you.


Just my 2cents

wish

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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 08:45:46 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Noise

> But when I am stopped,
>I hear the whining noise. Just did the front/rear brakes and most
>recently, replaced the power steering pump but neither of these seem to
>be the source of the noise. I can hear it loudest in the cab, faintly
>when I open and look under the hood and semi-loud if I listen between
>the rear of the cab and front of the bed. Thought it might be coming
>from the transmission but (1) why would the transmission be whining when
>I'm stopped and (2) I just serviced the transmission and torque
>converter and the truck shifts smoother than it has for quite a while.
>Sorry for the poor description of the problem but it's hard to pin down.

You say it does it when you are stopped ... when you are stopped in park?
or just stopped like at a light ? My truck used to make a whirr/whining
noise from the tranny when it was in park. Seems like its stopped now, all
I did though was have a gasket in the transmission replaced, so the tranny
was probably serviced at the same time (Dad had it done for me so I wasn't
there). Like someone else said I would try messin with everything I can
and see what happens with the pitch. My truck only did this in park (and
neutral I think).


Just my 2cents

wish

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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 08:46:52 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Filter Connector

>Does anyone know how to get the fuel line connector off the fuel filter? My
>haynes manual just says to remove it. Looks to me like it takes a special
>tool to pop it off the nipple after you remove the clip.
>
>Where can I get this tool at?
>

What kind of connector do you have ? I don't think I've found one yet that
I couldn't get off with a good pair of pliers and some twisting/pulling.
Haven't broken any that way either, just be careful with it...


Just my 2cents

wish

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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 10:08:51 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Intakes

Chris writes: >>You are absoluetly right Azie....I posted that I was wrong
right
afterwards. I had just got off work and wasn't thinking clearly and had
wished I could stop that message from being sent, so I didn't look like
an idiot!
Chris

No idiots here, and I knew that before I wrote the note. I knew you were just
asleep or something, but Hey!!! I'm old and forgetful. Sometimes I have to
look down at my badge to be sure I'm who I think I am. That taller deck thing
has fooled a lot of good mechanical minds though. Unless you're thinking good
it is easy to misunderstand it.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 09:19:34 -0600
From: David Cole
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Filter Connector

You can get it off with piers, etc., but it will mess up the line. You can
buy a little plastic disconnect tool for less then $5 at most chain parts
stores. I bought a whole set of them in different sizes for $15. The same
type connectors are also used on your a/c lines, under hood fuel lines and
trans cooler lines, but they are different sizes. So I thought it would be
good to have a full set.

The lines are held together by a garter spring. The tool is round with a
cutout like a tubing wrench to get it on the line. You put it on the line
and slide it down inside the joint. It pushes the spring outward and the
lines easily come apart.

Later,

David Cole

At 08:46 AM 2/18/99 -0600, William S Hart wrote:
>>Does anyone know how to get the fuel line connector off the fuel filter? My
>>haynes manual just says to remove it. Looks to me like it takes a special
>>tool to pop it off the nipple after you remove the clip.
>>
>>Where can I get this tool at?
>>
>
>What kind of connector do you have ? I don't think I've found one yet that
>I couldn't get off with a good pair of pliers and some twisting/pulling.
>Haven't broken any that way either, just be careful with it...
>
>
>Just my 2cents
>
>wish
>
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>
>

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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 10:47:45 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Whine

Tom Gunby writes: >>I hear the whining noise. Just did the front/rear brakes
and most
recently, replaced the power steering pump but neither of these seem to
be the source of the noise

Kick the power steering belt off and listen for just a couple of minutes for the
whine. Do you have a serpentine belt arrangement?? Usually people get the power
steering belt too tight and this causes it to whine. If it is the powersteering
pump, the frequency of the whine should change somewhat when turning the
steering wheel either way(turn it just enough to put pressure on the steering
wheel).

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 10:59:30 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Pilot shaft

Geof Schrag writes: >> The center piece of the bearing came out, but the outer
ring with the
notches on the back side is stuck fast. Anyone have any ideas how to get
this out?

Take a sharp pointed tool such as an old Ice pick(an old philips screwdriver
made into an Ice pick like device) and try to carefully drive it between the
outershell of the bearing and the crankshaft - C A R E F U L L Y. If this is
futile, then try a small cold chisel angled inward(away from the crankshaft and
into the outer shell of the bearing. Be very careful not to Hit the crankshaft
with the hammer and good luck. If you have an experienced
mechanic/machinist/blacksmith type of person around you, you might call him for
advise also. I've never had this problem, but I have broken a crankshaft by
striking it with a hammer. Not good.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 10:13:47 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Filter Connector

Thanks a bunch Dave, good idea, I think I will pick up the whole set of them
also.

Those are high pressure fuel lines and screwing them up is the last thing in
the world I would risk doing.

I never found a reference to the tool in my Haynes manual. It was one of
those "see section 6" comments. So I read the ENTIRE section and never found
it!

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:David Cole [SMTP:racrcole earthlink.net]
> Sent:Thursday, February 18, 1999 8:20 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Filter Connector
>
> You can get it off with piers, etc., but it will mess up the line. You
> can
> buy a little plastic disconnect tool for less then $5 at most chain parts
> stores. I bought a whole set of them in different sizes for $15. The
> same
> type connectors are also used on your a/c lines, under hood fuel lines and
> trans cooler lines, but they are different sizes. So I thought it would
> be
> good to have a full set.
>
> The lines are held together by a garter spring. The tool is round with a
> cutout like a tubing wrench to get it on the line. You put it on the line
> and slide it down inside the joint. It pushes the spring outward and the
> lines easily come apart.
>
> Later,
>
> David Cole
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 10:17:59 -0800
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Running wires from brake control...

On Wed, 17 Feb 1999, "Lamar DeVille" wrote:
>
> I have a "93 F-150 Ext Cab with the 5.8L V8 and I am
> installing a Tekonsha brake controller for a
> small travel trailer (approx 2500#). Three wires must
> exit the cab. One goes to the rear of the
> truck to the plug connecting to the trailer and two
> others connect to the positive and negative of
> the battery. My question is what are the best
> places/locations to run these wires out of the cab?

I am assuming you read the instructions but it seems odd to me that your
controller needs these wires. On every one I have seen, red was brake
lights, black was power (battery hot but on an automatic circuit
breaker, not a fuse) and blue went to the brakes themselves. They were
all grounded through the case. Last one I did, I was able to find both
the brake lights and the big, fat unfused hot wire I needed inside the
cab. Looking at my '86, I noticed a few potential locations for wires
to come out. The big bundle over the accelerator looked good and there
were a couple of unused grommets near the fuse block. Sometimes
manufacturers put a hollow rubber plug in an unused hole in the
firewall, in that last installation, I was able to drill a small one out
and run the wire through it. I saw several bigger ones on my '86 that
you could run more wires through if need be.

Good luck,
Birken
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 10:53:26 PST
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - timing/mixture problem

Ok I have been dicking with the truck trying to get it to run. I can
get it started but I am continuosly having that mixture/timing problem.
It runs, but it is pumping out raw gas out the tailpipe and is way off
time. I have EEC III and so the distrubtor can't be turned. The cap is
new and has good points in there and the plugs wires are only 8 month
old, plugs themselves I pulled, cleaned and gapped. (Were hardly dirty
at all) I haven't tried messing with the carb yet (been there, learned
my lesson on a different truck...) It is the Motorcraft VV 7200 carb. I
have never adjusted this type before. I have tried gassing it to unstick
the choke, tried holding it in second down a steep hill (has worked in
the past, not exactly sure why) tried carb cleaner and nothing seems to
be working.
Any suggestions or ideas?

Thanks,
Casey

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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 10:56:50 -0800
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Running wires from brake control...

On Wed, 17 Feb 1999, "Matt Fitzsimmons" wrote:
>
> Check your wiring harness under the middle of the dash. Most trucks have a
> connetor there that has all the connections you need. Power, Ground, Brake
> Lights, Trailer Brakes. It's a 4 pin connetor with black,white, green and
> blue wires. If you have the towing package, the blue (trailer brakes) wire
> will be in the harness at the back of the truck.

Oops, replied too soon...does anybody know if my '86 might have such a
thing? It was equipped for towing, it seems to me. Somebody split the
wiring harness about halfway back the bed, for a 5th wheel I
presume...the 5th wheel mounts are there...there are 7 wires at that
point, behind the fuel switch valve. There is also a 6 pin round
connector at the bumper, but the wires have been cut off of it. There
are 5 wires, though, so either at one point the truck had trailer brakes
or it had an auxilliary feed to charge the trailer batteries...any
thoughts?

Birken
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 13:15:38 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - timing/mixture problem

>It runs, but it is pumping out raw gas out the tailpipe and is way off
>time. I have EEC III and so the distrubtor can't be turned. The cap is
>new and has good points in there

I don't know much about the EEC III, but I'm guessing it doesn't have
points ... do you mean the rotor by chance ??? Also I've never seen
(doesn't mean much, but ...) a distributor that you can't set the base
timing on, even the EEC IV could have the base timing set on it.

>at all) I haven't tried messing with the carb yet (been there, learned
>my lesson on a different truck...) It is the Motorcraft VV 7200 carb. I
>have never adjusted this type before. I have tried gassing it to unstick
>the choke, tried holding it in second down a steep hill (has worked in
>the past, not exactly sure why) tried carb cleaner and nothing seems to
>be working.
>Any suggestions or ideas?
>
I would check the firing order. I don't remember which motor you have, but
the 302 (5.0), 351(5.8) and 302 HO all have different firing orders (don't
use a Mustang book to tune your truck...BTDT, and the opposite too) It
sounds to me like you are running really rich and possibly not firing the
cylinders at the right times. Are you sure its gasoline coming out the
tailpipe and not water ? When a vehicle is first warming up there is a lot
of water in the exhaust (from compustion H20 vapor that condences in the
cold exhaust system) ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 14:43:14 EST
From: STEPSI3742 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 CI switch over to 351windsor how hard is it?

When I converted from a I-6 to v8 it was tough, but most of my problems came
from my manual trans. I spent days finding the right mounts from a junkyard
and even still I had to modify those. But if you already have the mounts and
your using an automatic there shouldn't be any big problems.

TJ
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 16:45:33 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oxygen Sensor

I am trying to replace the oxygen sensor in my '86 F-150 302 EFI and
would appreciate any advice on the best way to get at and remove the old
sensor. It is mounted in the manifold above the starter and partially
blocked from above by a metal pipe and the engine lift bracket. Is it
necessary to remove the pipe and bracket to get to the sensor and remove
it? Also, is there a special wrench for removing the sensor? If so,
about how much does it cost?
Thanks for any help.
Tom Gunby

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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 12:58:31 -0900
From: "Ben Everitt"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Transmission

Hello everyone,

I have a 92' f-150 302FI automatic. I am having trouble with the
transmission. Every once in a while it will act up and almost become
undriveable. I am in Alaska and drive most of the winter in 4 wheel drive.
The transmission will have trouble shifting back and forth between 3rd and
overdrive. It seems to get stuck halfway in between and when it does catch
it slips. It does this when the tranny's hot, and cold. I have just
replaced the tranny filter and fluid and it didn't seen to help.

a-could this be a computer shifting problem? I have no overdrive switch
problems.
b-do I need to have my transmission rebuilt?
c-or does anyone know the right place to kick it to make it work?

Ben

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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 17:03:44 -0500
From: "Goodwin, Jerry"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Oxygen Sensor

Tom,
I have replaced a sensor in a car and it was no problem. If you can get a
wrench on the flats --you got. Remember you computer needs a little time to
recalibate once installed. Not sure how this relates to the truck but i
would think it is similar. good luck

- -----Original Message-----
From: Tom Gunby [mailto:gunby mindspring.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 1999 4:46 PM
To: Ford Truck Discussion Group
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oxygen Sensor


I am trying to replace the oxygen sensor in my '86 F-150 302 EFI and
would appreciate any advice on the best way to get at and remove the old
sensor. It is mounted in the manifold above the starter and partially
blocked from above by a metal pipe and the engine lift bracket. Is it
necessary to remove the pipe and bracket to get to the sensor and remove
it? Also, is there a special wrench for removing the sensor? If so,
about how much does it cost?
Thanks for any help.
Tom Gunby

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 17:03:46 -0500
From: Dave
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oxygen Sensor

Tom:

I have a special socket which cost less than $10. It is a deep socket with
the side milled out. , it is not good for tight places.

Dave


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 17:25:48 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Harry's U-Pull It in Hazelton Pennsylvania.

Yes ive been many times to Harrys and it is pretty well organized... i would
try to aviod goin on a windy cold day cause man is it cold on that mountain..
orginization is good and as long as you got the right tools you could get
just about anything uyp there they weld the cars to rims and suspend them in
mid air its really cool and as for acerage its goota be damn close to a
mile square i mean i dont walk so far at work as i did to get to the piles
of trucks which are of course located to the back of the yard.. they have
lots of antique car parts too
anything else ya wanna know Email me
Bob
Rolson1039 aol.com
89 F250
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 18:47:27 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - timing/mixture problem

Casey,

The 7200VV can be a nightmare.

There is a large diaphragm in the back of the carb (built-in, not like a
choke pull-off) that controls the position of the VV system. They tend
to get holes in them and stop opening the venturis. It is just like
driving around with a real carburetor with the choke closed. Yours
probably needs to be replaced. You used to be able to buy them
separately at Ford dealers without buying a kit.

There is also an idle mixture adjustment that is accessable by removing
a plate on the top of the carb, just behind the venturis.

Both of these could screw up the vacuum enough to impact timing, but I
would lean toward the diaphragm.

I am basing my comments on a 1985 CV interceptor that I used to work on
for the local fire department.

Speaking of fire, have you thought about.... Never mind.

Good luck,
Steve

Casey Vandor wrote:
>
> Ok I have been dicking with the truck trying to get it to run. I can
> get it started but I am continuosly having that mixture/timing problem.
> It runs, but it is pumping out raw gas out the tailpipe and is way off
> time. I have EEC III and so the distrubtor can't be turned. The cap is
> new and has good points in there and the plugs wires are only 8 month
> old, plugs themselves I pulled, cleaned and gapped. (Were hardly dirty
> at all) I haven't tried messing with the carb yet (been there, learned
> my lesson on a different truck...) It is the Motorcraft VV 7200 carb. I
> have never adjusted this type before. I have tried gassing it to unstick
> the choke, tried holding it in second down a steep hill (has worked in
> the past, not exactly sure why) tried carb cleaner and nothing seems to
> be working.
> Any suggestions or ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Casey
>
> ______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 23:12:09 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - GAS TANK

Hi Y'all
Im having a problem with my front gas tank in a 1989 F250 and I figured Id
ask if any of you had a good front tank ( 19 gal) that you wanted to part
with the one I have wont accept more than half a tank of gas cause the baffle
is all messed up.. preferably one i can come get myself ( somewhere in the
nyc area or within a drive i can make inside of a day)
also i know this was mentioned before on the list but I figured Id pass this
along for comment with y'all.. my truck can run off of either tank front or
rear but if she is runnin off of the back tank in addition to feeding the
motor she also spits gas into the front tank.. this creates a problem cause
she will make the tank overflow.. if I run off of the front tank Im good she
doesnt spill into the rear tank.. anyway I went to my local Ford dealer and
they told me in the service department that a fuel pump is not necessarially
what the problem is apparently there are check valves through the system that
can be jammed or gummed up which will prevent the flow from or to the tanks
from being properly routed.. ( and they want me to bring the truck in there
for service at a cost of $80 an hour plus parts) Has anyone had this
experience? I remember that some of y'all changed the front pump and the....


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