80-96-list-digest Tuesday, February 16 1999 Volume 03 : Number 046



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable
FTE 80-96 - Timing Cover Update
Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable
FTE 80-96 - 2 problems
FTE 80-96 - REMOVE
FTE 80-96 - Starters and crankshaft bolts.
Re: FTE 80-96 - 60/40 Bench from Ranger in Explorer
Re: FTE 80-96 - START KEY WON'T WORK 86 F-150
Re: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems
RE: FTE 80-96 - E4OD interceptor
FTE 80-96 - Question on trading up.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Starters and crankshaft bolts.
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: FE 80-96 - Lockup T C
Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable
FTE 80-96 - Tank Capacity and other Q's
RE: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable
Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable
RE: FTE 80-96 - Tank Capacity and other Q's
FTE 80-96 - Re:slip yoke
Re: FTE 80-96 - Torque Converter Lock Control
FTE 80-96 - Salesco on the 'net
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Bearing/Bushing won't come out!
FTE 80-96 - 351W block
FTE 80-96 - Horsepower
FTE 80-96 - A/C
FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV codes
FTE 80-96 - EEC code
FTE 80-96 - Body Restoration (1980 F-100)
FTE 80-96 - Air Dams
Re: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Posting instructions
FTE 80-96 - Removing headlight trim
FTE 80-96 - Power steering hose
FTE 80-96 - Must sell - 1997 F250HD 4x4 diesel
FTE 80-96 - Reverse lights
Re: FTE 80-96 - Removing headlight trim
FTE 80-96 - Key Problems with 86 F150
RE: FTE 80-96 - "I Like FORDS, but the CHEVY was cheaper!"
Re: FTE 80-96 - Air Dams

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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 07:13:35 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable

My '86 F-150 302 EFI makes a light metallic scraping noise when I first
start out in the morning. It starts when I exit my driveway and go down
the hill in front of my house, gets faster as I pick up speed, lasts
about 5-8 minutes (only occurs when the truck is moving) then goes
away. It mimics a speedometer cable that needs lubricating but this is
just a guess. Any way I can determine if it is the speedometer cable?
If so, can it be lubed or is replacement necessary? If replacement is
necessary, is it DYI or must it be done by a shop? Thanks for any
suggestions.
Regards,
Tom Gunby

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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 08:03:35 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Timing Cover Update

Guys,
Just wanted to let you know. Saturday I tore down the
bronco and got the radiator, belts, waterpump and timing
chain cover out of the bronco. I could not get it back together
cause no one open had a new seal for the timing cover
crankshaft. Even though the old one was not leaking I was
not going to to leave out a new $6.00 seal only to have to
redo the job again. So I will go pick that up today. While I
waited this weekend I decided to go ahead and paint all the
front engine parts(timing cover, new waterpump, crank pulley
waterpump pulley, compressor braket, alternator braket, and a
few bolts. I got the Engine Enamel paint from AutoZone. Ford
Blue and Gloss black. Tonight i will go ahead and take off the
valve cover and air filter and paint that as well, since I already
bought the gasket a few weeks ago for the valve cover. The paint
really looks nice and shinny and durable on the parts. Preperation
is everything. The paint is $4.00 a can but comes out excellent.
I'll take pictures this week of my work and let you guys see the
after looks before and after install. Just wish I would of had film
to get the before painted pictues. :-( The biggest pain was getting
my fan/clutch off cause of the special tools I needed from Autozone
and also my crankshaft bolt was a pain. I lost a little blood on those
two. I just took off the starter and had my Dad come over and hold
a crowbar to the flywheel. Like I said tonight I will take off
the valve cover and paint it and paint the airfilter housing. Also I
will clean up the engine side of the timing cover and waterpump.
More updates and pics this week as I go. I also went and bought all
new belts and water hoses, since they didn't look in good enough
condition to put back on. Well, just thought I would let you know. I
am going to take my time this week and paint everything in there I
can get to while I have it torn apart. Thanx for all the advise.
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March
:-) :-))


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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 09:31:54 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable

anytime a speedo cable starts its scraping noise its usually accompanied with
the jumping needle on the speedo itself.. ive had success by disconnectiog the
speedo cable and shooting a light spray oil ( like WD40 or the 3in1 household
oil) into the cable and re attaching it. after the speedo cable lets the oil
work in ( usually within a few minutes the problem corrects itself for
several months, sometimes permanently
Hope that helps ya
Bob
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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 09:59:12 EST
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems

Guys,

I have a 1991 F-250 Reg. Cab, Long bed, 7.5L, 3:55's, 4X4, lockouts, duals,
E40D,
The first problem is i am getting a creaking sound from up front somewhere.
It souds almost like the left or right front leaf spring popping. I have
heard of this happening on other trucks before. Got any ideas? Second of
all, my torque converter won't lockup when the tranny is cold. As soon as
the tranny is warm the T.C. will lock up. I bought this truck with 87,000 on
it and is now has 94,000. the guy before me that owned it rebuilt the E40D at
50,000. I have had no problems with the tranny except the T.C. not locking up
when its cold. In the summer time, it will lock up no matter how cool the
tranny sits or how long it sits, but in the winter time, it goes for maybe 2
or 3 miles before it locks up. Does it need to slip and create some heat
before it will lock up? Do you think maybe just a fluid change will cure the
problem?

Thanks
Paul
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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:53:14 EST
From: WuTangz36x aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - REMOVE


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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:58:22 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Starters and crankshaft bolts.

Hey all,

Over the weekend my starter went. It really shouldn't have surprised me
that much since it was inevitable. It was a cold, cold, rainy, late night
and I was dressed up and out with my girlfriend. What better time is there
to get under my truck with a ratchet and a crowbar and bang the hell out of
the starter to get it to turn over? Not worse for the wear, I made it home
and
changed the starter the next day. The job keeps getting easier and easier
the more I do it, and it gets done about once a year it seems.
The thing that gets me is that the starters seem to get more and more
expensive every time I replace one. This last time Pep Boys tried to charge
me around $90 after returning the core, and it didn't even come with the
solenoid! I ended up going across the street to a higher-end (parts-wise)
shop and picking up a slightly more expensive one that came complete. It
seems to be of higher quality, so I 'm hoping it lasts a little longer. Do
these prices seem right?

And to offer up my not-so-scientific advice on certain jobs, this one's
for Rick. There's a way to get that pesky crankshaft bolt off with one
person. It's not pretty, but it's worked for me. Remove all the spark
plugs, get a large breaker bar with the right socket on there and attach it
to the bolt, and take a piece of gas pipe and slip it over the breaker bar,
wedged against the ground. Most importantly, make sure it's wedged against
the ground as you don't want to do damage to the truck. Get in the truck
and crank the starter momentarily. Doing this on a Mazda it took two tries,
but it worked. The first time just lifted the front of the truck off the
ground, and the second one got the bolt loose.
As a word of warning to anybody who might not think it through
thoroughly: this is pretty dangerous, and I'd only recommend doing it if
it's absolutely necessary.

- -Mike



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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:05:52 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 60/40 Bench from Ranger in Explorer

>I want to put a bench seat in my '92 Explorer. I was thinkinhg that
>the Ranger looks like it is the same size as the Explorer. Anyone want
>to comment?
>
The ranger and explorer share many many components from those years ...
check the mountings for the rails to the floor, but I would think they
would be the right width to make things look as right as a bench seat
explorer could ... :)


Oh, they got a laugh
But look who got the last dance ...
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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:08:59 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - START KEY WON'T WORK 86 F-150

>WHEN I TURN THE KEY IN PARK, IT WON'T TURN OVER, BUT WILL START IN NEUTRAL.
>I HAVE A 1984 F-150 EXT CAB XLT 351 2 BL 3 SPD AUTO.
>THE TUMBLER HAS BEEN STIFF AND WOULD NOT SNAP BACK TO RUN IN THE PARKED
>POSITION, BUT NOW WILL NOT START IN PARK, JUST IN NEUTRAL AND THE TUMBLER
>IS VERY LOOSE IN THE NEUTRAL POSITION. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
>
There are a couple of things it could be the most likely one is your
neutral starter safety switch is out of alignment, try pushing or pulling
on the handle while its in park, just move it enough that its at the end of
its travel without putting it in reverse and see if this will allow it to
start. If the key is harder to turn in P than in N, then you NEED to pull
the collar off and check the upper actuator in the ignition, check for the
alignment of the shift lock mechanism, along with cracks in that upper
actuator. If that thing snaps you can turn the key all day and nothing
will happen. It sounds like right now the problem is just electric, but be
sure and check the other if you have odd behavior of the tumblers/key itself.


Just my 2cents

wish

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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:12:28 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems

>The first problem is i am getting a creaking sound from up front somewhere.
>It souds almost like the left or right front leaf spring popping. I have
>heard of this happening on other trucks before. Got any ideas?

Put some grease (White Lithium?) where the leaves rub together and see if
that helps get rid of it. Worked on the rear of a minivan, might work on
the front of a pickup :)


Second of
>all, my torque converter won't lockup when the tranny is cold. As soon as
>the tranny is warm the T.C. will lock up.

How do you know its not locking up ? If its working right you shouldn't
should you ? Or is it making that really neat noise that my dad's tempo is
where it sounds like its vibrating back and forth quickly ????

Does it need to slip and create some heat
>before it will lock up? Do you think maybe just a fluid change will cure the
>problem?
>
both of these sound like good/logical conclusions ... I'd think the fluid
change would be a good idea ... you said its been almost 50,000 since the
last change right ?


Just my 2cents

wish

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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 10:21:59 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - E4OD interceptor

I did some checking and found the Autotrans Interceptor costs $102.95 if you
buy it yourself. If you know someone at a parts store or automotive shop,
you can have them order it for you and save over 25 bucks ($74.53). I seem
to be having problems finding it in stock here in Denver. The best source
was Transtar, 1-800-525-9096, but they did not have them in stock. Their web
site is useless but you might have more luck than I did.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://transtarindustries.com/home.htm

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Dana Bartholomew [SMTP:danabart wizard.com]
> Sent:Saturday, February 13, 1999 8:06 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - E4OD interceptor
>
> Chuck wrote:
> >
> >
> > where can the Interceptor be purchased? what auto parts
> > stores?
>
> I'm not sure what stores carry them. I'm in Las Vegas and I don't think
> they had any local vendors in my area. I ordered mine directly from
> ATG. They're at-http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.atg-autotrans.com/
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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:27:54 -0600
From: Roger Lane
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Question on trading up.

Okay people, I saw a truck today for sale.
Let me run down the particulars:
1989 F250 XLT 4X4
Standard Cab and Bed
5.0L, 5 speed OD
Dual Tanks
118,000 Miles
The car lot is asking $4295, but they said they could give me $500 trade on
my 84 F150.
Here's my question:
What should I really be looking out for when I test drive it?
Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I subscribe to the digest list, so please feel free to e-mail me offline.
Thank you.
Roger Lane
Test/Support Analyst
(402)241-3570
Roger.Lane IBPINC.COM

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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:45:26 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Starters and crankshaft bolts.

>seems to be of higher quality, so I 'm hoping it lasts a little longer. Do
>these prices seem right?
>
They seem a little high to me, but I would definitely look into lifetime
warranty units, then it won't cost you nearly as much. If you find a parts
store that you like, talk with the manager and establish a repor with them,
they will get to know you and become very helpful. I used to work at a
local parts store and now they'll bend over backwards (or at least give me
the book) to find exactly what I'm looking for.


>wedged against the ground. Most importantly, make sure it's wedged against
>the ground as you don't want to do damage to the truck. Get in the truck
>and crank the starter momentarily. Doing this on a Mazda it took two tries,
>but it worked. The first time just lifted the front of the truck off the
>ground, and the second one got the bolt loose.

Yeah, that's pretty scarey! :) I had a similar problem with my 360, my
solution was a short length of chain to the mount for the jack on the inner
fender, the other end attached with a bolt that holds the pulley onto the
harmonic balancer ... then get a ratchet and simulated an impact wrench
(hammer tapping the handle of the ratchet). If you have a pull bar I'd
recommed that so its not so hard on the ratcheting mechanism, but since I
didn't have one this worked.


Just my 2cents

wish

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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:48:53 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: FE 80-96 - Lockup T C

>I already have the cooler that came stock with the heavy duty tow package.
>
>If I had a way to monitor the transmission temperature I would give it a
>try.
>
Check b&m, they make monitors and such, they might have one specifically
for you, or give you tips on getting one ...

They have a website, but I can't seem to find it right now ... Jegs and
summit probably also have them available ...


Just my 2cents

wish

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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:53:38 -0600
From: "Bart Ogden"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable

I think you'd be better off with something besides WD-40 since it's
essentially nothing more than a solvent. I use a turbine oil sold as Zoom
Oil Spout. It's got a little plastic tube that extends out of the
container. You should be able to find this almost anywhere, especially HVAC
supply houses. No solvent, but penetrates and REALLY holds up. It's
designed for applications like this.

Bart

- -----Original Message-----
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, February 15, 1999 8:42 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable


>anytime a speedo cable starts its scraping noise its usually accompanied
with
>the jumping needle on the speedo itself.. ive had success by disconnectiog
the
>speedo cable and shooting a light spray oil ( like WD40 or the 3in1
household
>oil) into the cable and re attaching it. after the speedo cable lets the
oil
>work in ( usually within a few minutes the problem corrects itself for
>several months, sometimes permanently
>Hope that helps ya
>Bob
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:07:27 -0700
From: "Brad Shell"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Tank Capacity and other Q's

Greetings all; I just purchased a 96 F150 XLT 4x4 300 I6 31x10.5x15s 4
months ago, and have a few questions...

1. Gas Tank Capacity: 100 Miles and guage reads empty already, I fill
it and only put 6
Gallons in? I really don't want to pull the tank just to fix the float,
so need to know what the gas tank capacity is.

2. Chamfering the front brake pads? I understand that it is supposed
to quiet brake squel, but when did they start doing this, and does less
contact with the rotor limit the stopping capabilities?

3. It has a dual shock set up in the front, is this normal or an add
on?

4. Transmission problem woes... The Mazda 5 spd had to be resealed due
to several leaks. Any upgrades or can I put in an old 4 spd granny when
the time comes?

Regards

Brad Shell

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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:11:20 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable

I read somewhere that WD-40 is just vegetable oil and propellant. It sure
doesn't smell like you could eat it! it's probably the propellant that makes
it so caustic.

I prefer silicone spray lubricant. That stuff will soak into anything and
stay forever. Silicone is banded here at work because it gets on optics and
is impossible to remove so it must work good for lubricating mechanical
parts for a long time.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Bart Ogden [SMTP:ogden fn.net]
> Sent:Monday, February 15, 1999 10:54 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable
>
> I think you'd be better off with something besides WD-40 since it's
> essentially nothing more than a solvent. I use a turbine oil sold as Zoom
> Oil Spout. It's got a little plastic tube that extends out of the
> container. You should be able to find this almost anywhere, especially
> HVAC
> supply houses. No solvent, but penetrates and REALLY holds up. It's
> designed for applications like this.
>
> Bart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ROlson1039 aol.com
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Date: Monday, February 15, 1999 8:42 AM
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable
>
>
> >anytime a speedo cable starts its scraping noise its usually accompanied
> with
> >the jumping needle on the speedo itself.. ive had success by
> disconnectiog
> the
> >speedo cable and shooting a light spray oil ( like WD40 or the 3in1
> household
> >oil) into the cable and re attaching it. after the speedo cable lets the
> oil
> >work in ( usually within a few minutes the problem corrects itself for
> >several months, sometimes permanently
> >Hope that helps ya
> >Bob
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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 13:35:03 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable

This is just speculation on my part, but I suspect that the WD-40 sprayed in the
cable dissolves the dried up grease and spreads is around some. There are also
kits available that allow you to use your grease gun ("What's a grease gun,
Daddy?") to pressure lube a speedo cable.

Mike

Bart Ogden wrote:

> I think you'd be better off with something besides WD-40 since it's
> essentially nothing more than a solvent. I use a turbine oil sold as Zoom
> Oil Spout. It's got a little plastic tube that extends out of the
> container. You should be able to find this almost anywhere, especially HVAC
> supply houses. No solvent, but penetrates and REALLY holds up. It's
> designed for applications like this.
>
> Bart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ROlson1039 aol.com
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Date: Monday, February 15, 1999 8:42 AM
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable
>
> >anytime a speedo cable starts its scraping noise its usually accompanied
> with
> >the jumping needle on the speedo itself.. ive had success by disconnectiog
> the
> >speedo cable and shooting a light spray oil ( like WD40 or the 3in1
> household
> >oil) into the cable and re attaching it. after the speedo cable lets the
> oil
> >work in ( usually within a few minutes the problem corrects itself for
> >several months, sometimes permanently
> >Hope that helps ya
> >Bob
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:42:57 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Tank Capacity and other Q's

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Brad Shell [SMTP:ryef10 email.sps.mot.com]
> Sent:Monday, February 15, 1999 11:07 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - Tank Capacity and other Q's
>
> Greetings all; I just purchased a 96 F150 XLT 4x4 300 I6 31x10.5x15s 4
> months ago, and have a few questions...
>
> 1. Gas Tank Capacity: 100 Miles and guage reads empty already, I fill
> it and only put 6
> Gallons in? I really don't want to pull the tank just to fix the float,
> so need to know what the gas tank capacity is.
19 in the rear and 18 in the front tank. Usually if the gauge reads
full then the float is OK. I think there is an adjustment behind the dash to
correct this or you might have to replace the instrument cluster voltage
regulator.

> 2. Chamfering the front brake pads? I understand that it is supposed
> to quiet brake squel, but when did they start doing this, and does less
> contact with the rotor limit the stopping capabilities?
No, reducing the area of contact will not reduce stopping power.
Reducing the pad area will reduce the life of the pads, but the amount you
remove should not be that significant. Reducing the area may also make the
pad a run little hotter also. I have not heard of this until now so I have
no opinion on it but this seems like a work around solution to the real
problem.

I would like to understand why some brakes do not squeal without the
chamfer. My brakes don't squeal and I never have done this so it must be
something else causing it to squeal, like the pad material or the condition
of the rotor. If I had one that squealed I would replace the pads and check
the surface of the rotor. If the rotor is fine I would take the pads back
and make them replace them. I have seen my pads push against the rotor
unevenly when debris got between the pad and the caliper shoe. I have heard
the squealing is caused by dust getting between the pad and rotor and
creating a "glaze" which builds up in clumps and hardens.

> 3. It has a dual shock set up in the front, is this normal or an add
> on?
>
That is normal and comes with the stock off-road or the handling
package. If you have a thick plate under the gas tanks and transmission you
have the off-road package.

> 4. Transmission problem woes... The Mazda 5 spd had to be resealed due
> to several leaks. Any upgrades or can I put in an old 4 spd granny when
> the time comes?
No idea there.

> Regards
>
> Brad Shell
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 13:51:04 -0500
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:slip yoke

I got off the phone with Ford with an idea. she said that to incur any
costs for fixing TSB's, they have to have enough people complain. we the
list should be enough people. some of us have given up on Ford and their
dealers. so we continue to live with the noises, problems, and other
assorted quirks. we shouldn't have to. would it be ethical to "gang" up on
Ford? everybody pestering them from different parts of the country, all
about the same problem? might open some lines of communication between
the haves (ford) and everyone else. I dont want to just live with it
(noises etc.) anymore. I also dont feel I should pay for their design
flaws.

now granted my truck is 15 yrs old, and Fords grace for bumper to bumper is
5. still, its their design flaw, the slip yoke is bad. its only $70.00.
and ill do the labor. should have heard the laughter on the phone when I
said that.

thats what makes me mad,


mike baker
pmbaker your-net.com
1985 F-150 4X4 351 4bbl


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 13:28:17 -0600
From: "Bart Ogden"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Torque Converter Lock Control

Ladies and Gentlemen:

Found a supplier for the "Interceptor" to adjust the tc lockup that we've
been discussing.

Just got off the phone and ordered one for my 1992 F-150. Cost was $70.38 +
tax and shipping. (BTW, list price on this was $87.95)

If you are in need of one of these, please call Aftermarket Technologies and
ask for Loren at 1-800-633-3340 extension 250.
I was more than satisfied with his service and he's a really nice gentleman
to deal with.

Bart


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:34:22 PST
From: "Steve Likness"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Salesco on the 'net

Just a warning that these guys are really warped!! I hope any of you
have had better luck if you have ordered from these folks than what I
had.

Steve


- ----Original Message Follows----
From: "Steve Likness"
To: salesco keyway.net
Cc: slikness hotmail.com
Subject: Order
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:31:11 PST

I HAVE NEVER BEEN TREATED SO RUDELY BY ANY SALES COMPANY AS YOURS!!

I ordered some seat belts (close to $300) on January 21st via internet.
I called on Feb 8th and 9th and was told that they did find the order on
the 9th and said they would immediately ship the belts.

I called today to find out where the order was and was told they called
on the 10th and left a message that they were missing some credit card
info. I stated that there was no message and the sales person basically
accused me of lying and that I had not ordered the belts until the 9th
of Feb and he didn't have to listen to this, he would cancel the order
and don't call back!!!

Now, let me tell you that I will certainly cc this e-mail to my lists
that I'm subscribed to recommending that no one do business with Salesco
for the above reasons. Also, it was my intention to order some truck
seats ($850-$900) and some wheels ($300-$400) for my truck that I am
refurbishing, however, those sales are also lost. I do not understand
how such an obnoxious company can stay in business and I'm positive that
there are a lot of sales being lost with your obnoxious, rude, and
belligerent sales people!!!



______________________________________________________


______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 14:42:31 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Bearing/Bushing won't come out!

Geoffrey Schrag wrote:

> -I must be getting close to breaking a record for most time spent working
> on a basic repair!-clutch job The Throwout bearing or rather the notched

Geoff, First of all, I am no expert, but I have taken my tranny/xfer-case
out twice and consider the whole clutch job not to be all that
simple. Definately something I don't want to get too good at.
So with that, you will have to refresh my memory on what you've
all done, and where your going. I mean besides back on the road :-)
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 17:23:58 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 351W block

Anyone have a bare block for sale. I plan on building a motor(stroker
for my Lightning.
Thanks
Chris
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 16:44:34 -0600
From: mentch cybrzn.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Horsepower

The motor is a 86 roller cam 302 bored .30 over to make a 306....a
Motorsport e-303 cam, Stealth Manifold and 600 carb, 1.6 Roller rockers,
Mildly ported heads, Headers and 2-1/4 in. duals. If someone could run
this trough Desk Top Dyno i would appreciate it.

Mentch cybrzn.com


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 14:50:34 -0800
From: "Josh"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - A/C

I jumpered around the cycle switch on the receiver/dryer and lo and behold
the compressor ran...I'm gonna take it a A/C guy and have him change the
o-rings and give it a charge...


Josh
berelson gte.net
Edmonds, WA

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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 14:52:44 -0800
From: "Josh"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV codes

I was pulling codes today and received a code 95 (fuel pump secondary
circuit failure, ECA to ground.) Can anyone elaborate?


Josh
berelson gte.net
90 F-250 7.5L
Edmonds, WA



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 15:18:18 -0800
From: "Josh"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - EEC code

Never mind...the code cleared, i changed my fuel filter yesterday and
depressureized the system with the inertia switch. That will give you a code
95 if you kick the switch open while the engine is running...


Josh
berelson gte.net
Edmonds, WA

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 18:23:50 -0500
From: irvinefamily
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Body Restoration (1980 F-100)

My 80 Ford F100 has fallen upon rusty times. I don't know how this
truck could have gotten so rusty, although I'm not the first owner. The
truck looks like a victim of upstate NY road salt, although the title
showed the first owner as being in Balt MD. The cab is the main
problem. I have major ventilation through the floor both on the flat
and the surface slanting up behind the pedals. I also have a major
problem at the rear corners of the cab about 1/3 of the way to the front
of the cab. If I was ever in an accident I don't think the lower seat
belt anchors would hold.
The state of Virginia inspection has told me that I got to get this
situation better before next inspection (November 1999). A body shop
told me that they'd recommend I get a whole another cab from a wrecker.
I was looking at JC Whitney and the Eastwood catalogs and I was
beginning to think maybe I could handle this on an incremental basis. I
don't drive this truck on a daily basis, more like a monthly basis.
Does anyone have any experience with the rust repair panels from JC
Whitney? I actually got a "Ford Truck only" catalog which makes picking
them out fairly easy. They show a "front section of floor pan," "lower
section rear pillar, and a "lower rear section of Cab (cab corner)." I
think I could use the floor pans and the lower section rear pillar, but
I can't figure out what is a "lower rear section of Cab (cab corner)."
Anyway if anyone could help me figure this out I'd appreciate it (also
recommendations or condemnations of JCW).
On to tools: I think I could get by with some sort of cutter, a
flanger I saw in Eastwood and JCW and some sort of welder. The only
welding I've done is oxy/aceytl about 20 years ago, but I understand
this is not so great for this work anyway. Eastwood has these
"weld-pak" and "mig-pak" welders but they are mucho expensive. Is a
wire feed welder worth the cost? Of course JCW has wire feed welders
also (not a whole lot less expensive than Eastwood).
Thoughts from the experts would be appreciated. The final result
does not have to be real pretty as I'm not going to ever enter this
truck in a show.
Thanks, Bruce Irvine

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 19:55:55 -0500
From: "joe"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Air Dams

On the 92's and up, are the air dams cosmetic or functional, my 95 Bronco
would look a lot better without it.



Thanks

Joe Phillip
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 17:41:09 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems

WoodStck45 aol.com wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> I have a 1991 F-250 Reg. Cab, Long bed, 7.5L, 3:55's, 4X4, lockouts, duals,
> E40D,
> Second of all, my torque converter won't lockup when the tranny is cold. As soon as
> the tranny is warm the T.C. will lock up.
>
> Thanks
> Paul


One of the things the TC lock-up looks at before engaging is coolant
temp. The motor must be warmed up before the TC is allowed to lock. I
would guess that your situation is normal.

Dana B
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:44:17 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems

In a message dated 2/15/99 10:04:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
WoodStck45 aol.com writes:


It sounds almost like the left or right front leaf spring popping. >>

I cant answer the 2nd question as I have the AODE. But there is a TSB about a
bushing on the right side control arm being too soft from the factory. I know
that I need to replace mine too, but through the dealer it will be in the area
of $300 including parts.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside Page
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 21:47:35 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Posting instructions

List postings to either my admin or list owner addresses
has gotten out of control. Please take the time to read
the instructions (you'll find a link to them at the bottom
of *****every***** post!) as I don't get any please dealing
with emails in my inbox that don't belong there. If you
post to my box, I'll ignore it.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:23:26 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Removing headlight trim

I was trying to adjust the headlights on my '93 F350 today, with the 4"
lift and 37" tires they shine right in the car ahead of me. I was
lowering the beam with the small adjusting screw under the hood just
behind the headlight. I went to far and popped the extension piece out
of the adjuster assembly. I need to remove the headlight trim to get to
the assembly and pop the adjuster back in. I removed the two screws at
the top of the chrome piece(under the hood) but there is some type of
fastener still holding somewhere. It pulls away a little but I don't
want to break it. Does anyone know how these come off?

Thanks,

Dana Bartholomew
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:31:35 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Power steering hose

I replaced the pressure side power steering line on my '93 F350 today.
It's all done but I have a question. What size is the nut on the pump
end of the hose? It's not 11/16(too small), 3/4(too big), 17mm(too
small) or 19mm(too big). My set does not have an 18mm but I think that
would have been too big also. 17mm almost went but not quite. I was
able to get it from the back side with a crescent after removing my air
cleaner but I'm very curious. Anyone know for sure? The new line was
11/16 so installing it was no problem.

Thanks,

Dana Bartholomew
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:31:24 PST
From: "Rob Bubala"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Must sell - 1997 F250HD 4x4 diesel

Hello

I reallly need to sell my 1997 F250 HD 4x4 turbo diesel XLT. It is a
regular cab, loaded with all kinds of options, has 34k on it, and I am
asking $24,400 OBO, but am willing to work on the price.

Please email me at jeep_cj8 hotmail.com for more details.

Thanks

ROB

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:41:16 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Reverse lights

I wired up my truck ('93 F350) for my boat trailer today. The trailer
has hydraulic disc surge brakes and there is a electric valve that
disables the brakes while in reverse. The valve is actuated when the
revers lights are on. I was trying to locate the wire to the reverse
lights and I couln't get them to come on. After repeated tries and
numerous walks from the cab to the rear of the truck (long walk with a
168" wheelbase) I determined that I had to pull the shifter towards
neutral a bit to get the lights to come on. With the selector in its
natural reverse postion I get nothing. Is this tied into the neutral
safety switch or is there a seperate one for the reverse position? Is
it adjustable? I'd like to be able to just throw it in reverse and not
have to worry about it.

Thanks,

Dana Bartholomew
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:53:32 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Removing headlight trim

Take a closer look at the retainer ring, the top of it should have a small
coil spring attaching it to the adjustment base. That little spring is a
real pain when you have the screws out.

Bob


Dana Bartholomew wrote:

> I was trying to adjust the headlights on my '93 F350 today, with the 4"
> lift and 37" tires they shine right in the car ahead of me. I was
> lowering the beam with the small adjusting screw under the hood just
> behind the headlight. I went to far and popped the extension piece out
> of the adjuster assembly. I need to remove the headlight trim to get to
> the assembly and pop the adjuster back in. I removed the two screws at
> the top of the chrome piece(under the hood) but there is some type of
> fastener still holding somewhere. It pulls away a little but I don't
> want to break it. Does anyone know how these come off?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dana Bartholomew
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 22:55:47 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Key Problems with 86 F150

Okay Rob, I was preparing a speech about this before I saw your email. I
apologize for it being long winded....

I had the same problem with my '85 F150. It started with having to turn the
key real far in "Park" to get it to start. My solution to that was to
loosen the actual ignition switch or module at the bottom of the steering
wheel shaft where the linkage ends up from the key tumbler and move it up
towards the tumbler itself. This worked for about a month until the portion
of the tumbler that engages that linkage broke off. Had to replace the
ignition switch tumbler. Real simple....turn key to run...poke something in
the release hole below the keyswitch and out it pops. This worked for a
couple of months. 2 more months went by and the same thing happened and I
thought, "no problem" but it wasn't the tumbler. Both times when this
happened, it was in the "run" position. Had juice but no start. I was
going to outsmart it and jumped the starter relay and got it started. But
it wouldn't come out of park.

Solution: The cast aluminum linkage in the column that releases the
gearshift and steering wheel had snapped. I found it when I was tearing
down the steering column from the steering wheel down. And I do mean tear
the thing apart along with some of the instrument panel, took probably 10-12
hours of my own labor doing this and I found the linkeage broken in half.
Didn't think Ford would have it in stock but when I showed it to the parts
guy, he reached in a drawer and tossed it to me! I think it was $12. I
believe this is a big problem with these year's trucks. Once you have it
replaced reassembly goes quick. I had only a couple of extra pieces left!

I can't imagine anything else being wrong because I've replaced it all!
Rob, please choose any of the above!

Scott Harris


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 22:57:55 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - "I Like FORDS, but the CHEVY was cheaper!"

I forgive you Bart....if you paid for it yourself. Not many 16 year olds
buy their first car...

> -----Original Message-----
> From:CphgnCwby1 aol.com [SMTP:CphgnCwby1 aol.com]
> Sent:Sunday, February 14, 1999 9:14 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - "I Like FORDS, but the CHEVY was cheaper!"
>
> Hey guys, I am getting ready to turn 16 and I asked you guys about a few
> trucks I was gonna buy, but I ended up finding a hell of a deal on a....


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