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80-96-list-digest Tuesday, February 16 1999 Volume 03 : Number 046 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo  ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable FTE 80-96 - Timing Cover Update Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable FTE 80-96 - 2 problems FTE 80-96 - REMOVE FTE 80-96 - Starters and crankshaft bolts. Re: FTE 80-96 - 60/40 Bench from Ranger in Explorer Re: FTE 80-96 - START KEY WON'T WORK 86 F-150 Re: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems RE: FTE 80-96 - E4OD interceptor FTE 80-96 - Question on trading up. Re: FTE 80-96 - Starters and crankshaft bolts. Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: FE 80-96 - Lockup T C Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable FTE 80-96 - Tank Capacity and other Q's RE: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable RE: FTE 80-96 - Tank Capacity and other Q's FTE 80-96 - Re:slip yoke Re: FTE 80-96 - Torque Converter Lock Control FTE 80-96 - Salesco on the 'net Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Bearing/Bushing won't come out! FTE 80-96 - 351W block FTE 80-96 - Horsepower FTE 80-96 - A/C FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV codes FTE 80-96 - EEC code FTE 80-96 - Body Restoration (1980 F-100) FTE 80-96 - Air Dams Re: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems Re: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Posting instructions FTE 80-96 - Removing headlight trim FTE 80-96 - Power steering hose FTE 80-96 - Must sell - 1997 F250HD 4x4 diesel FTE 80-96 - Reverse lights Re: FTE 80-96 - Removing headlight trim FTE 80-96 - Key Problems with 86 F150 RE: FTE 80-96 - "I Like FORDS, but the CHEVY was cheaper!" Re: FTE 80-96 - Air Dams ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 07:13:35 -0500 From: Tom Gunby Subject: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable My '86 F-150 302 EFI makes a light metallic scraping noise when I first start out in the morning. It starts when I exit my driveway and go down the hill in front of my house, gets faster as I pick up speed, lasts about 5-8 minutes (only occurs when the truck is moving) then goes away. It mimics a speedometer cable that needs lubricating but this is just a guess. Any way I can determine if it is the speedometer cable? If so, can it be lubed or is replacement necessary? If replacement is necessary, is it DYI or must it be done by a shop? Thanks for any suggestions. Regards, Tom Gunby == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 08:03:35 -0600 From: "Rick Wojciechowski" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Timing Cover Update Guys, Just wanted to let you know. Saturday I tore down the bronco and got the radiator, belts, waterpump and timing chain cover out of the bronco. I could not get it back together cause no one open had a new seal for the timing cover crankshaft. Even though the old one was not leaking I was not going to to leave out a new $6.00 seal only to have to redo the job again. So I will go pick that up today. While I waited this weekend I decided to go ahead and paint all the front engine parts(timing cover, new waterpump, crank pulley waterpump pulley, compressor braket, alternator braket, and a few bolts. I got the Engine Enamel paint from AutoZone. Ford Blue and Gloss black. Tonight i will go ahead and take off the valve cover and air filter and paint that as well, since I already bought the gasket a few weeks ago for the valve cover. The paint really looks nice and shinny and durable on the parts. Preperation is everything. The paint is $4.00 a can but comes out excellent. I'll take pictures this week of my work and let you guys see the after looks before and after install. Just wish I would of had film to get the before painted pictues. :-( The biggest pain was getting my fan/clutch off cause of the special tools I needed from Autozone and also my crankshaft bolt was a pain. I lost a little blood on those two. I just took off the starter and had my Dad come over and hold a crowbar to the flywheel. Like I said tonight I will take off the valve cover and paint it and paint the airfilter housing. Also I will clean up the engine side of the timing cover and waterpump. More updates and pics this week as I go. I also went and bought all new belts and water hoses, since they didn't look in good enough condition to put back on. Well, just thought I would let you know. I am going to take my time this week and paint everything in there I can get to while I have it torn apart. Thanx for all the advise. - -- Thanks, Rick Wojo '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains '92 Mstng 5.0L '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-)) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 09:31:54 EST From: ROlson1039 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable anytime a speedo cable starts its scraping noise its usually accompanied with the jumping needle on the speedo itself.. ive had success by disconnectiog the speedo cable and shooting a light spray oil ( like WD40 or the 3in1 household oil) into the cable and re attaching it. after the speedo cable lets the oil work in ( usually within a few minutes the problem corrects itself for several months, sometimes permanently Hope that helps ya Bob == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 09:59:12 EST From: WoodStck45 aol.com Subject: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems Guys, I have a 1991 F-250 Reg. Cab, Long bed, 7.5L, 3:55's, 4X4, lockouts, duals, E40D, The first problem is i am getting a creaking sound from up front somewhere. It souds almost like the left or right front leaf spring popping. I have heard of this happening on other trucks before. Got any ideas? Second of all, my torque converter won't lockup when the tranny is cold. As soon as the tranny is warm the T.C. will lock up. I bought this truck with 87,000 on it and is now has 94,000. the guy before me that owned it rebuilt the E40D at 50,000. I have had no problems with the tranny except the T.C. not locking up when its cold. In the summer time, it will lock up no matter how cool the tranny sits or how long it sits, but in the winter time, it goes for maybe 2 or 3 miles before it locks up. Does it need to slip and create some heat before it will lock up? Do you think maybe just a fluid change will cure the problem? Thanks Paul == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:53:14 EST From: WuTangz36x aol.com Subject: FTE 80-96 - REMOVE == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:58:22 -0500 From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr." Subject: FTE 80-96 - Starters and crankshaft bolts. Hey all, Over the weekend my starter went. It really shouldn't have surprised me that much since it was inevitable. It was a cold, cold, rainy, late night and I was dressed up and out with my girlfriend. What better time is there to get under my truck with a ratchet and a crowbar and bang the hell out of the starter to get it to turn over? Not worse for the wear, I made it home and changed the starter the next day. The job keeps getting easier and easier the more I do it, and it gets done about once a year it seems. The thing that gets me is that the starters seem to get more and more expensive every time I replace one. This last time Pep Boys tried to charge me around $90 after returning the core, and it didn't even come with the solenoid! I ended up going across the street to a higher-end (parts-wise) shop and picking up a slightly more expensive one that came complete. It seems to be of higher quality, so I 'm hoping it lasts a little longer. Do these prices seem right? And to offer up my not-so-scientific advice on certain jobs, this one's for Rick. There's a way to get that pesky crankshaft bolt off with one person. It's not pretty, but it's worked for me. Remove all the spark plugs, get a large breaker bar with the right socket on there and attach it to the bolt, and take a piece of gas pipe and slip it over the breaker bar, wedged against the ground. Most importantly, make sure it's wedged against the ground as you don't want to do damage to the truck. Get in the truck and crank the starter momentarily. Doing this on a Mazda it took two tries, but it worked. The first time just lifted the front of the truck off the ground, and the second one got the bolt loose. As a word of warning to anybody who might not think it through thoroughly: this is pretty dangerous, and I'd only recommend doing it if it's absolutely necessary. - -Mike == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:05:52 -0600 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 60/40 Bench from Ranger in Explorer >I want to put a bench seat in my '92 Explorer. I was thinkinhg that >the Ranger looks like it is the same size as the Explorer. Anyone want >to comment? > The ranger and explorer share many many components from those years ... check the mountings for the rails to the floor, but I would think they would be the right width to make things look as right as a bench seat explorer could ... :) Oh, they got a laugh But look who got the last dance ... == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:08:59 -0600 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - START KEY WON'T WORK 86 F-150 >WHEN I TURN THE KEY IN PARK, IT WON'T TURN OVER, BUT WILL START IN NEUTRAL. >I HAVE A 1984 F-150 EXT CAB XLT 351 2 BL 3 SPD AUTO. >THE TUMBLER HAS BEEN STIFF AND WOULD NOT SNAP BACK TO RUN IN THE PARKED >POSITION, BUT NOW WILL NOT START IN PARK, JUST IN NEUTRAL AND THE TUMBLER >IS VERY LOOSE IN THE NEUTRAL POSITION. ANY SUGGESTIONS? > There are a couple of things it could be the most likely one is your neutral starter safety switch is out of alignment, try pushing or pulling on the handle while its in park, just move it enough that its at the end of its travel without putting it in reverse and see if this will allow it to start. If the key is harder to turn in P than in N, then you NEED to pull the collar off and check the upper actuator in the ignition, check for the alignment of the shift lock mechanism, along with cracks in that upper actuator. If that thing snaps you can turn the key all day and nothing will happen. It sounds like right now the problem is just electric, but be sure and check the other if you have odd behavior of the tumblers/key itself. Just my 2cents wish Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Trucks/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Cars/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:12:28 -0600 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems >The first problem is i am getting a creaking sound from up front somewhere. >It souds almost like the left or right front leaf spring popping. I have >heard of this happening on other trucks before. Got any ideas? Put some grease (White Lithium?) where the leaves rub together and see if that helps get rid of it. Worked on the rear of a minivan, might work on the front of a pickup :) Second of >all, my torque converter won't lockup when the tranny is cold. As soon as >the tranny is warm the T.C. will lock up. How do you know its not locking up ? If its working right you shouldn't should you ? Or is it making that really neat noise that my dad's tempo is where it sounds like its vibrating back and forth quickly ???? Does it need to slip and create some heat >before it will lock up? Do you think maybe just a fluid change will cure the >problem? > both of these sound like good/logical conclusions ... I'd think the fluid change would be a good idea ... you said its been almost 50,000 since the last change right ? Just my 2cents wish Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Trucks/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Cars/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 10:21:59 -0700 From: "Giddens, Scott" Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - E4OD interceptor I did some checking and found the Autotrans Interceptor costs $102.95 if you buy it yourself. If you know someone at a parts store or automotive shop, you can have them order it for you and save over 25 bucks ($74.53). I seem to be having problems finding it in stock here in Denver. The best source was Transtar, 1-800-525-9096, but they did not have them in stock. Their web site is useless but you might have more luck than I did. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://transtarindustries.com/home.htm Scott > -----Original Message----- > From:Dana Bartholomew [SMTP:danabart wizard.com] > Sent:Saturday, February 13, 1999 8:06 PM > To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com > Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - E4OD interceptor > > Chuck wrote: > > > > > > where can the Interceptor be purchased? what auto parts > > stores? > > I'm not sure what stores carry them. I'm in Las Vegas and I don't think > they had any local vendors in my area. I ordered mine directly from > ATG. They're at-http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.atg-autotrans.com/ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:27:54 -0600 From: Roger Lane Subject: FTE 80-96 - Question on trading up. Okay people, I saw a truck today for sale. Let me run down the particulars: 1989 F250 XLT 4X4 Standard Cab and Bed 5.0L, 5 speed OD Dual Tanks 118,000 Miles The car lot is asking $4295, but they said they could give me $500 trade on my 84 F150. Here's my question: What should I really be looking out for when I test drive it? Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I subscribe to the digest list, so please feel free to e-mail me offline. Thank you. Roger Lane Test/Support Analyst (402)241-3570 Roger.Lane IBPINC.COM == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:45:26 -0600 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Starters and crankshaft bolts. >seems to be of higher quality, so I 'm hoping it lasts a little longer. Do >these prices seem right? > They seem a little high to me, but I would definitely look into lifetime warranty units, then it won't cost you nearly as much. If you find a parts store that you like, talk with the manager and establish a repor with them, they will get to know you and become very helpful. I used to work at a local parts store and now they'll bend over backwards (or at least give me the book) to find exactly what I'm looking for. >wedged against the ground. Most importantly, make sure it's wedged against >the ground as you don't want to do damage to the truck. Get in the truck >and crank the starter momentarily. Doing this on a Mazda it took two tries, >but it worked. The first time just lifted the front of the truck off the >ground, and the second one got the bolt loose. Yeah, that's pretty scarey! :) I had a similar problem with my 360, my solution was a short length of chain to the mount for the jack on the inner fender, the other end attached with a bolt that holds the pulley onto the harmonic balancer ... then get a ratchet and simulated an impact wrench (hammer tapping the handle of the ratchet). If you have a pull bar I'd recommed that so its not so hard on the ratcheting mechanism, but since I didn't have one this worked. Just my 2cents wish Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Trucks/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Cars/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:48:53 -0600 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: FE 80-96 - Lockup T C >I already have the cooler that came stock with the heavy duty tow package. > >If I had a way to monitor the transmission temperature I would give it a >try. > Check b&m, they make monitors and such, they might have one specifically for you, or give you tips on getting one ... They have a website, but I can't seem to find it right now ... Jegs and summit probably also have them available ... Just my 2cents wish Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Trucks/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Cars/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:53:38 -0600 From: "Bart Ogden" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable I think you'd be better off with something besides WD-40 since it's essentially nothing more than a solvent. I use a turbine oil sold as Zoom Oil Spout. It's got a little plastic tube that extends out of the container. You should be able to find this almost anywhere, especially HVAC supply houses. No solvent, but penetrates and REALLY holds up. It's designed for applications like this. Bart - -----Original Message----- From: ROlson1039 aol.com To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com Date: Monday, February 15, 1999 8:42 AM Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable >anytime a speedo cable starts its scraping noise its usually accompanied with >the jumping needle on the speedo itself.. ive had success by disconnectiog the >speedo cable and shooting a light spray oil ( like WD40 or the 3in1 household >oil) into the cable and re attaching it. after the speedo cable lets the oil >work in ( usually within a few minutes the problem corrects itself for >several months, sometimes permanently >Hope that helps ya >Bob >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:07:27 -0700 From: "Brad Shell" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Tank Capacity and other Q's Greetings all; I just purchased a 96 F150 XLT 4x4 300 I6 31x10.5x15s 4 months ago, and have a few questions... 1. Gas Tank Capacity: 100 Miles and guage reads empty already, I fill it and only put 6 Gallons in? I really don't want to pull the tank just to fix the float, so need to know what the gas tank capacity is. 2. Chamfering the front brake pads? I understand that it is supposed to quiet brake squel, but when did they start doing this, and does less contact with the rotor limit the stopping capabilities? 3. It has a dual shock set up in the front, is this normal or an add on? 4. Transmission problem woes... The Mazda 5 spd had to be resealed due to several leaks. Any upgrades or can I put in an old 4 spd granny when the time comes? Regards Brad Shell == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:11:20 -0700 From: "Giddens, Scott" Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable I read somewhere that WD-40 is just vegetable oil and propellant. It sure doesn't smell like you could eat it! it's probably the propellant that makes it so caustic. I prefer silicone spray lubricant. That stuff will soak into anything and stay forever. Silicone is banded here at work because it gets on optics and is impossible to remove so it must work good for lubricating mechanical parts for a long time. Scott > -----Original Message----- > From:Bart Ogden [SMTP:ogden fn.net] > Sent:Monday, February 15, 1999 10:54 AM > To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com > Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable > > I think you'd be better off with something besides WD-40 since it's > essentially nothing more than a solvent. I use a turbine oil sold as Zoom > Oil Spout. It's got a little plastic tube that extends out of the > container. You should be able to find this almost anywhere, especially > HVAC > supply houses. No solvent, but penetrates and REALLY holds up. It's > designed for applications like this. > > Bart > > -----Original Message----- > From: ROlson1039 aol.com > To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com > Date: Monday, February 15, 1999 8:42 AM > Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable > > > >anytime a speedo cable starts its scraping noise its usually accompanied > with > >the jumping needle on the speedo itself.. ive had success by > disconnectiog > the > >speedo cable and shooting a light spray oil ( like WD40 or the 3in1 > household > >oil) into the cable and re attaching it. after the speedo cable lets the > oil > >work in ( usually within a few minutes the problem corrects itself for > >several months, sometimes permanently > >Hope that helps ya > >Bob == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 13:35:03 -0500 From: Mike Sloane Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable This is just speculation on my part, but I suspect that the WD-40 sprayed in the cable dissolves the dried up grease and spreads is around some. There are also kits available that allow you to use your grease gun ("What's a grease gun, Daddy?") to pressure lube a speedo cable. Mike Bart Ogden wrote: > I think you'd be better off with something besides WD-40 since it's > essentially nothing more than a solvent. I use a turbine oil sold as Zoom > Oil Spout. It's got a little plastic tube that extends out of the > container. You should be able to find this almost anywhere, especially HVAC > supply houses. No solvent, but penetrates and REALLY holds up. It's > designed for applications like this. > > Bart > > -----Original Message----- > From: ROlson1039 aol.com > To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com > Date: Monday, February 15, 1999 8:42 AM > Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Cable > > >anytime a speedo cable starts its scraping noise its usually accompanied > with > >the jumping needle on the speedo itself.. ive had success by disconnectiog > the > >speedo cable and shooting a light spray oil ( like WD40 or the 3in1 > household > >oil) into the cable and re attaching it. after the speedo cable lets the > oil > >work in ( usually within a few minutes the problem corrects itself for > >several months, sometimes permanently > >Hope that helps ya > >Bob > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html - -- - ------------ Mike Sloane Allamuchy NJ (msloane att.net) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:42:57 -0700 From: "Giddens, Scott" Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Tank Capacity and other Q's > -----Original Message----- > From:Brad Shell [SMTP:ryef10 email.sps.mot.com] > Sent:Monday, February 15, 1999 11:07 AM > To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com > Subject:FTE 80-96 - Tank Capacity and other Q's > > Greetings all; I just purchased a 96 F150 XLT 4x4 300 I6 31x10.5x15s 4 > months ago, and have a few questions... > > 1. Gas Tank Capacity: 100 Miles and guage reads empty already, I fill > it and only put 6 > Gallons in? I really don't want to pull the tank just to fix the float, > so need to know what the gas tank capacity is. 19 in the rear and 18 in the front tank. Usually if the gauge reads full then the float is OK. I think there is an adjustment behind the dash to correct this or you might have to replace the instrument cluster voltage regulator. > 2. Chamfering the front brake pads? I understand that it is supposed > to quiet brake squel, but when did they start doing this, and does less > contact with the rotor limit the stopping capabilities? No, reducing the area of contact will not reduce stopping power. Reducing the pad area will reduce the life of the pads, but the amount you remove should not be that significant. Reducing the area may also make the pad a run little hotter also. I have not heard of this until now so I have no opinion on it but this seems like a work around solution to the real problem. I would like to understand why some brakes do not squeal without the chamfer. My brakes don't squeal and I never have done this so it must be something else causing it to squeal, like the pad material or the condition of the rotor. If I had one that squealed I would replace the pads and check the surface of the rotor. If the rotor is fine I would take the pads back and make them replace them. I have seen my pads push against the rotor unevenly when debris got between the pad and the caliper shoe. I have heard the squealing is caused by dust getting between the pad and rotor and creating a "glaze" which builds up in clumps and hardens. > 3. It has a dual shock set up in the front, is this normal or an add > on? > That is normal and comes with the stock off-road or the handling package. If you have a thick plate under the gas tanks and transmission you have the off-road package. > 4. Transmission problem woes... The Mazda 5 spd had to be resealed due > to several leaks. Any upgrades or can I put in an old 4 spd granny when > the time comes? No idea there. > Regards > > Brad Shell == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 13:51:04 -0500 From: "PmctBaker" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:slip yoke I got off the phone with Ford with an idea. she said that to incur any costs for fixing TSB's, they have to have enough people complain. we the list should be enough people. some of us have given up on Ford and their dealers. so we continue to live with the noises, problems, and other assorted quirks. we shouldn't have to. would it be ethical to "gang" up on Ford? everybody pestering them from different parts of the country, all about the same problem? might open some lines of communication between the haves (ford) and everyone else. I dont want to just live with it (noises etc.) anymore. I also dont feel I should pay for their design flaws. now granted my truck is 15 yrs old, and Fords grace for bumper to bumper is 5. still, its their design flaw, the slip yoke is bad. its only $70.00. and ill do the labor. should have heard the laughter on the phone when I said that. thats what makes me mad, mike baker pmbaker your-net.com 1985 F-150 4X4 351 4bbl == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 13:28:17 -0600 From: "Bart Ogden" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Torque Converter Lock Control Ladies and Gentlemen: Found a supplier for the "Interceptor" to adjust the tc lockup that we've been discussing. Just got off the phone and ordered one for my 1992 F-150. Cost was $70.38 + tax and shipping. (BTW, list price on this was $87.95) If you are in need of one of these, please call Aftermarket Technologies and ask for Loren at 1-800-633-3340 extension 250. I was more than satisfied with his service and he's a really nice gentleman to deal with. Bart == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:34:22 PST From: "Steve Likness" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Salesco on the 'net Just a warning that these guys are really warped!! I hope any of you have had better luck if you have ordered from these folks than what I had. Steve - ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Steve Likness" To: salesco keyway.net Cc: slikness hotmail.com Subject: Order Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 11:31:11 PST I HAVE NEVER BEEN TREATED SO RUDELY BY ANY SALES COMPANY AS YOURS!! I ordered some seat belts (close to $300) on January 21st via internet. I called on Feb 8th and 9th and was told that they did find the order on the 9th and said they would immediately ship the belts. I called today to find out where the order was and was told they called on the 10th and left a message that they were missing some credit card info. I stated that there was no message and the sales person basically accused me of lying and that I had not ordered the belts until the 9th of Feb and he didn't have to listen to this, he would cancel the order and don't call back!!! Now, let me tell you that I will certainly cc this e-mail to my lists that I'm subscribed to recommending that no one do business with Salesco for the above reasons. Also, it was my intention to order some truck seats ($850-$900) and some wheels ($300-$400) for my truck that I am refurbishing, however, those sales are also lost. I do not understand how such an obnoxious company can stay in business and I'm positive that there are a lot of sales being lost with your obnoxious, rude, and belligerent sales people!!! ______________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 14:42:31 -0600 From: "Rick Wojciechowski" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Bearing/Bushing won't come out! Geoffrey Schrag wrote: > -I must be getting close to breaking a record for most time spent working > on a basic repair!-clutch job The Throwout bearing or rather the notched Geoff, First of all, I am no expert, but I have taken my tranny/xfer-case out twice and consider the whole clutch job not to be all that simple. Definately something I don't want to get too good at. So with that, you will have to refresh my memory on what you've all done, and where your going. I mean besides back on the road :-) - -- Thanks, Rick Wojo '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains '92 Mstng 5.0L '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-)) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 17:23:58 -0500 From: Garr&Pam Subject: FTE 80-96 - 351W block Anyone have a bare block for sale. I plan on building a motor(stroker for my Lightning. Thanks Chris == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 16:44:34 -0600 From: mentch cybrzn.com Subject: FTE 80-96 - Horsepower The motor is a 86 roller cam 302 bored .30 over to make a 306....a Motorsport e-303 cam, Stealth Manifold and 600 carb, 1.6 Roller rockers, Mildly ported heads, Headers and 2-1/4 in. duals. If someone could run this trough Desk Top Dyno i would appreciate it. Mentch cybrzn.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 14:50:34 -0800 From: "Josh" Subject: FTE 80-96 - A/C I jumpered around the cycle switch on the receiver/dryer and lo and behold the compressor ran...I'm gonna take it a A/C guy and have him change the o-rings and give it a charge... Josh berelson gte.net Edmonds, WA == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 14:52:44 -0800 From: "Josh" Subject: FTE 80-96 - EEC-IV codes I was pulling codes today and received a code 95 (fuel pump secondary circuit failure, ECA to ground.) Can anyone elaborate? Josh berelson gte.net 90 F-250 7.5L Edmonds, WA == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 15:18:18 -0800 From: "Josh" Subject: FTE 80-96 - EEC code Never mind...the code cleared, i changed my fuel filter yesterday and depressureized the system with the inertia switch. That will give you a code 95 if you kick the switch open while the engine is running... Josh berelson gte.net Edmonds, WA == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 18:23:50 -0500 From: irvinefamily Subject: FTE 80-96 - Body Restoration (1980 F-100) My 80 Ford F100 has fallen upon rusty times. I don't know how this truck could have gotten so rusty, although I'm not the first owner. The truck looks like a victim of upstate NY road salt, although the title showed the first owner as being in Balt MD. The cab is the main problem. I have major ventilation through the floor both on the flat and the surface slanting up behind the pedals. I also have a major problem at the rear corners of the cab about 1/3 of the way to the front of the cab. If I was ever in an accident I don't think the lower seat belt anchors would hold. The state of Virginia inspection has told me that I got to get this situation better before next inspection (November 1999). A body shop told me that they'd recommend I get a whole another cab from a wrecker. I was looking at JC Whitney and the Eastwood catalogs and I was beginning to think maybe I could handle this on an incremental basis. I don't drive this truck on a daily basis, more like a monthly basis. Does anyone have any experience with the rust repair panels from JC Whitney? I actually got a "Ford Truck only" catalog which makes picking them out fairly easy. They show a "front section of floor pan," "lower section rear pillar, and a "lower rear section of Cab (cab corner)." I think I could use the floor pans and the lower section rear pillar, but I can't figure out what is a "lower rear section of Cab (cab corner)." Anyway if anyone could help me figure this out I'd appreciate it (also recommendations or condemnations of JCW). On to tools: I think I could get by with some sort of cutter, a flanger I saw in Eastwood and JCW and some sort of welder. The only welding I've done is oxy/aceytl about 20 years ago, but I understand this is not so great for this work anyway. Eastwood has these "weld-pak" and "mig-pak" welders but they are mucho expensive. Is a wire feed welder worth the cost? Of course JCW has wire feed welders also (not a whole lot less expensive than Eastwood). Thoughts from the experts would be appreciated. The final result does not have to be real pretty as I'm not going to ever enter this truck in a show. Thanks, Bruce Irvine == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 19:55:55 -0500 From: "joe" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Air Dams On the 92's and up, are the air dams cosmetic or functional, my 95 Bronco would look a lot better without it. Thanks Joe Phillip == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 17:41:09 -0800 From: Dana Bartholomew Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems WoodStck45 aol.com wrote: > > Guys, > > I have a 1991 F-250 Reg. Cab, Long bed, 7.5L, 3:55's, 4X4, lockouts, duals, > E40D, > Second of all, my torque converter won't lockup when the tranny is cold. As soon as > the tranny is warm the T.C. will lock up. > > Thanks > Paul One of the things the TC lock-up looks at before engaging is coolant temp. The motor must be warmed up before the TC is allowed to lock. I would guess that your situation is normal. Dana B == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:44:17 EST From: FLR150 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 2 problems In a message dated 2/15/99 10:04:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, WoodStck45 aol.com writes: It sounds almost like the left or right front leaf spring popping. >> I cant answer the 2nd question as I have the AODE. But there is a TSB about a bushing on the right side control arm being too soft from the factory. I know that I need to replace mine too, but through the dealer it will be in the area of $300 including parts. Wayne Foy '94 Flareside SC "Hazardous Material" Wayne's Flareside Page == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 21:47:35 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Posting instructions List postings to either my admin or list owner addresses has gotten out of control. Please take the time to read the instructions (you'll find a link to them at the bottom of *****every***** post!) as I don't get any please dealing with emails in my inbox that don't belong there. If you post to my box, I'll ignore it. Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:23:26 -0800 From: Dana Bartholomew Subject: FTE 80-96 - Removing headlight trim I was trying to adjust the headlights on my '93 F350 today, with the 4" lift and 37" tires they shine right in the car ahead of me. I was lowering the beam with the small adjusting screw under the hood just behind the headlight. I went to far and popped the extension piece out of the adjuster assembly. I need to remove the headlight trim to get to the assembly and pop the adjuster back in. I removed the two screws at the top of the chrome piece(under the hood) but there is some type of fastener still holding somewhere. It pulls away a little but I don't want to break it. Does anyone know how these come off? Thanks, Dana Bartholomew == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:31:35 -0800 From: Dana Bartholomew Subject: FTE 80-96 - Power steering hose I replaced the pressure side power steering line on my '93 F350 today. It's all done but I have a question. What size is the nut on the pump end of the hose? It's not 11/16(too small), 3/4(too big), 17mm(too small) or 19mm(too big). My set does not have an 18mm but I think that would have been too big also. 17mm almost went but not quite. I was able to get it from the back side with a crescent after removing my air cleaner but I'm very curious. Anyone know for sure? The new line was 11/16 so installing it was no problem. Thanks, Dana Bartholomew == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:31:24 PST From: "Rob Bubala" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Must sell - 1997 F250HD 4x4 diesel Hello I reallly need to sell my 1997 F250 HD 4x4 turbo diesel XLT. It is a regular cab, loaded with all kinds of options, has 34k on it, and I am asking $24,400 OBO, but am willing to work on the price. Please email me at jeep_cj8 hotmail.com for more details. Thanks ROB ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:41:16 -0800 From: Dana Bartholomew Subject: FTE 80-96 - Reverse lights I wired up my truck ('93 F350) for my boat trailer today. The trailer has hydraulic disc surge brakes and there is a electric valve that disables the brakes while in reverse. The valve is actuated when the revers lights are on. I was trying to locate the wire to the reverse lights and I couln't get them to come on. After repeated tries and numerous walks from the cab to the rear of the truck (long walk with a 168" wheelbase) I determined that I had to pull the shifter towards neutral a bit to get the lights to come on. With the selector in its natural reverse postion I get nothing. Is this tied into the neutral safety switch or is there a seperate one for the reverse position? Is it adjustable? I'd like to be able to just throw it in reverse and not have to worry about it. Thanks, Dana Bartholomew == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:53:32 -0800 From: Bob Kennedy Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Removing headlight trim Take a closer look at the retainer ring, the top of it should have a small coil spring attaching it to the adjustment base. That little spring is a real pain when you have the screws out. Bob Dana Bartholomew wrote: > I was trying to adjust the headlights on my '93 F350 today, with the 4" > lift and 37" tires they shine right in the car ahead of me. I was > lowering the beam with the small adjusting screw under the hood just > behind the headlight. I went to far and popped the extension piece out > of the adjuster assembly. I need to remove the headlight trim to get to > the assembly and pop the adjuster back in. I removed the two screws at > the top of the chrome piece(under the hood) but there is some type of > fastener still holding somewhere. It pulls away a little but I don't > want to break it. Does anyone know how these come off? > > Thanks, > > Dana Bartholomew > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 22:55:47 -0600 From: "Harris, Scott" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Key Problems with 86 F150 Okay Rob, I was preparing a speech about this before I saw your email. I apologize for it being long winded.... I had the same problem with my '85 F150. It started with having to turn the key real far in "Park" to get it to start. My solution to that was to loosen the actual ignition switch or module at the bottom of the steering wheel shaft where the linkage ends up from the key tumbler and move it up towards the tumbler itself. This worked for about a month until the portion of the tumbler that engages that linkage broke off. Had to replace the ignition switch tumbler. Real simple....turn key to run...poke something in the release hole below the keyswitch and out it pops. This worked for a couple of months. 2 more months went by and the same thing happened and I thought, "no problem" but it wasn't the tumbler. Both times when this happened, it was in the "run" position. Had juice but no start. I was going to outsmart it and jumped the starter relay and got it started. But it wouldn't come out of park. Solution: The cast aluminum linkage in the column that releases the gearshift and steering wheel had snapped. I found it when I was tearing down the steering column from the steering wheel down. And I do mean tear the thing apart along with some of the instrument panel, took probably 10-12 hours of my own labor doing this and I found the linkeage broken in half. Didn't think Ford would have it in stock but when I showed it to the parts guy, he reached in a drawer and tossed it to me! I think it was $12. I believe this is a big problem with these year's trucks. Once you have it replaced reassembly goes quick. I had only a couple of extra pieces left! I can't imagine anything else being wrong because I've replaced it all! Rob, please choose any of the above! Scott Harris == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 22:57:55 -0600 From: "Harris, Scott" Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - "I Like FORDS, but the CHEVY was cheaper!" I forgive you Bart....if you paid for it yourself. Not many 16 year olds buy their first car... > -----Original Message----- > From:CphgnCwby1 aol.com [SMTP:CphgnCwby1 aol.com] > Sent:Sunday, February 14, 1999 9:14 PM > To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com > Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - "I Like FORDS, but the CHEVY was cheaper!" > > Hey guys, I am getting ready to turn 16 and I asked you guys about a few > trucks I was gonna buy, but I ended up finding a hell of a deal on a.... 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