80-96-list-digest Saturday, February 13 1999 Volume 03 : Number 042



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FW: FTE 80-96 - Identify this
FTE 80-96 - FIXED: F250 Running Rough (LONG - with a good? story)
Re: FTE 80-96 - Two more items and I think I'm done for tonight...
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: off idle dead spot
FTE 80-96 - Rear seat
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: voltage
FTE 80-96 - '94 F150 tune-up & fuel filter location?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Ford Performance
FTE 80-96 - What to do
FTE 80-96 - 92 Ford F-150 FIRE!!!
FTE 80-96 - Volt Meter
Re: FTE 80-96 - '94 F150 tune-up & fuel filter location?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Code 41.. HEGO?
Re: FTE 80-96 - FIXED: F250 Running Rough (LONG - with a good? story)
FTE 80-96 - Lockup T C
FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco
Re: FTE 80-96 - FIXED: F250 Running Rough (LONG - with a good? story)
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco
Re: FTE 80-96 - 92 Ford F-150 FIRE!!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco
RE: FTE 80-96 - Lockup T C
Re: FTE 80-96 - 92 Ford F-150 FIRE!!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco
Re: FTE 80-96 - FIXED: F250 Running Rough (LONG - with a good? story)
RE: FTE 80-96 - Lockup T C
RE: FTE 80-96 - FIXED: F250 Running Rough (LONG - with a good? st ory)
Re: FTE 80-96 - 351W Oil Pan
FTE 80-96 - Fixed: Another dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - 92 Ford F-150 FIRE!!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Hub lubrication
RE: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco
FTE 80-96 - RE: New engine or Different truck....
Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal
FTE 80-96 - RE: off idle dead spot
FTE 80-96 - RE: FE 80-96 - Lockup T C
FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Pump
Re: FTE 80-96 - E4OD interceptor
FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco
FTE 80-96 - 60/40 Bench from Ranger in Explorer
Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Pump

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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 06:55:00 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FW: FTE 80-96 - Identify this

In a message dated 2/11/99 12:12:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dgourde casecorp.com writes:



The transmission code on my 94 pick-up is "U" also and the dealership told
me it is an AODE. >>
Darrin,
Thanks. I had a tranny shop tell me it was the AODE but I wanted to make sure.
I have been experiencing some of the same problems as the E40D guys. I was
also going to attempt to hook up one of those TC unlock switches. I guess I'll
have to take it in for service as it is shifting weird. As Chris said with the
power I'm making I should have torn it up by now....I think I have!
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside Page
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 09:15:05 -0500
From: CONWAY pjm.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - FIXED: F250 Running Rough (LONG - with a good? story)

This is a follow-up to a post I made on Wed 2/10/99 looking for help on my F250.
The final resolution of the problem is at the end of this e-mail.

Here's a copy of my original message:

My '92 F250HD 5.8 started running rough yesterday morning. It started fine, but
it shakes when it idles, and also under part-throttle load. If I step on the
gas hard while moving it initially accelerates badly (shaking), then it
downshifts.

I'm also getting a "fuel" smell in the cab, the exhaust note has definitely
changed (sounds like a "miss"), and when I got home from work last night after a
15 ride home, there was a definite "burnt" smell outside the truck.

I didn't get a "check engine" light or any other visual indicator of a problem.

Anyone have any ideas? It's in the shop now, and I'm waiting to hear what they
have to say.


Chuck Conway
conway pjm.com
'92 F250HD XLT 4x4, 5.8, Tuff-Country front Leveling Kit, Goodyear Wrangler MT

Here are the responses I got:


- -----Original Message-----
From:Andre Roy [SMTP:andre dns3.unipissing.ca]
Sent:Wednesday, February 10, 1999 11:34 AM
To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough

CONWAY pjm.com wrote:
>
> My '92 F250HD 5.8 started running rough yesterday morning. It started fine,
but
> it shakes when it idles, and also under part-throttle load. If I step on the
> gas hard while moving it initially accelerates badly (shaking), then it
> downshifts.
>
> I'm also getting a "fuel" smell in the cab, the exhaust note has definitely
> changed (sounds like a "miss"), and when I got home from work last night after
a
> 15 ride home, there was a definite "burnt" smell outside the truck.
>
WAG--fuel rail,r injector or pressure regulator leaking. In that order.

- --
Andre

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Steve Likness [SMTP:slikness hotmail.com]
> Sent:Wednesday, February 10, 1999 1:36 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough
>
> Sounds like a fouled plug or two. Could be caused by running too rich
> or maybe some oil leaking past rings or valve guides. If you pull the
> plugs and find one or more that are "wet" with gas/oil, try using a
> hotter plug and lean out the carb a little.
>
> Steve
>
- -----Original Message-----
From:ROlson1039 aol.com [SMTP:ROlson1039 aol.com]
Sent:Wednesday, February 10, 1999 1:47 PM
To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough

bad wires... fouled plug..

- -----Original Message-----
From:HrdKnkr aol.com [SMTP:HrdKnkr aol.com]
Sent:Wednesday, February 10, 1999 4:03 PM
To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough

Check for a blown power valve in the carb (if it's carburated) Usually
happens if the motor backfired through the carb. easy fix!!


Here's the resolution:

I dropped the truck off at a Firestone auto repair center, because it was the
most convenient place between work and home. They've done minor repairs on my
wife's Exploder before, without incident. They said they'd do a computerized
engine diagnostic and cooling system pressure test for $76 and get back to me.

Later that day, the Firestone manager called. He said that I had a bad plug
wire, which was causing a misfire and also it was arcing inside the distributor
cap. They also recommended (based on mileage) to replace: wires, plugs, cap,
rotor. They also wanted to change the oil because "it was full of gas because
of the misfire".

The price tag (including the original $76): $433.00 tax included (but not
including the additional $300+ for hoses that they said I need)

I said "WHAT!?!?!?!?!" then, "Don't do anything else, I'll call you back."

I called a local auto parts store and asked for the cost of the ignition parts -
they said about 75 dollars.

I called Firestone, told them to put my truck back together, and write me up for
the $76.

One of my neighbors has an Auto Electrical repair shop. The place I should have
gone in the first place, if I had my head screwed on straight. He and his
partner have a combined 80+ years of experience. They looked it over, scoped it
(ignition, fuel system, charging system, etc). The truck checked out 100% OK
except for one thing - a fouled sparkplug in the #1 cylinder. They put a new
plug in (one heat range higher). It cured the problem.

They went over the Firestone diagnostic paperwork and were amazed how Firestone
managed to turn a fouled plug into over $400.00 worth of work....... ($700.00+
if you count unnecessarily replacing all of my radiator hoses)



Chuck
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 08:21:48 -0600
From: Roy Houston
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Two more items and I think I'm done for tonight...

Scott,
Pep Boys here in Houston does the same thing with "loaner" tools but I
think they have a ten day limit. I can't bring myself to go to AutoZone
here. They just don't know what the heck they're doing. More than once I've
gotten the wrong part. And now with the merger of O'Reilly and Hi/Lo, they
seem to be on the same track. It's like convience store auto parts,
definitely not the kind of parts house I grew up with.

Hey I have a '85 as well. F-150 SuperCab. We're redoing the interior. It
was a funky dark red and the truck is red-red and black on the outside so
we're going to black on the inside. I bought some of that paint specially
for plastic/vinyl, I think its made by Duplicolor. I snaded the panels with
a scotchbrite pad and then wiped them down real good with laquer thinner It
came out good. I have a few little spots where the old color can be seen
but I'll reshoot those befroe I'm done. Prep is the trick. Make sure you
get the pieces real clean before you paint. We're going to use tweed on the
door panels and dashboard and seat with black vinyl trim. Should be pretty
cool. I'll post some interior pictures to the FTE web pictorial when we're
done in a couple months.

Later, Roy

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 23:31:37 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Two more items and I think I'm done for tonight...

Don't know how many of you have an Autozone parts store near you but they
are great when it comes to tool rental. Some places will charge by the day
or hour and really take you on fees. At Autozone you pay the price that the
tool cost. If it cost $15 dollars and you keep it a month it still costs
$15 dollars. You can keep it if you want. But if you take it back you get
a full refund! Beats buying a special tool that you use once every 5 years
and losing money on it.

Item #2
My door panels as well as the rest of the plastic pieces on my '85 are
really sick looking due to the oxidation and degradation of the plastic over
the years. At one time I paid $140 dollars for replacement door panels and
they had to be the ugliest things I had seen. They failed to mention that
they weren't returnable.
Someone told me that you could sand the plastic down and repaint them with
vinyl dye or flex paint. I wanted to check to see what you thought about
the sanding before I did it and ended up making them worse than they are.

Anyone had any experience with this?

Roy Houston
85 F-150 SuperCab 351W
houston1 _at_ slb _dot_ com
houzoodad _at_ aol _dot_ com
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 08:20:23 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: off idle dead spot

At 08:33 PM 2/11/99 , you wrote:
>The I-6 does not have a timing chain. It has gears.
>
DOH! You're right, I remember marveling at that when I looked through the
book!

My bad.

wish
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 08:28:38 -0600
From: Steve Randa
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rear seat

Is the rear seat of an eighties Super Cab the same as the nineties. If
not what year did they change and do they utilize the same mounting
position. I'm asking because I just splurged for the 40/20/40 seats in
my truck and the two just don't match anymore.

Steve Randa
'84 F150

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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 08:24:21 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: voltage

So don't worry about it and the only
>advice I could give is getting a high amp racing alternator. But,
>really its a waste of money. So just let it be.
>

Aren't these racing alternators designed to run at high speeds for ... well
... racing ? So at an idle they'd probably have the same (or similar)
problems ... the whole thing stems from not enough revs to keep the
alternator puttin out as much juice as it does at normal operating speeds.


Just my 2cents

wish

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 08:29:34 -0600 (CST)
From: Steve Isham
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '94 F150 tune-up & fuel filter location?

I am planning to perform a tune-up on my '94 F150. I have done several of
these in the past, but never on my truck. One glaring question is where
is the fuel filter located? I haven't searched the Owner's Manual yet,
but if it is in there, I will check. Anybody have any heads up on doing
a tuneup on an F150? Any suggestions to repair manuals, or how-to books?

Thanks,
Steve

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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 08:52:00 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Ford Performance

FLR150 aol.com wrote:

> Hey Gang,
> Just thought I'd forward this note from my buddy at Ford Factory. It is a
> refreshing note to let all the technical guys in Ford know that the
> performance spirit at Ford is not dead and that more projects and such are in
> the works. I thought you all might be interested.
> Wayne Foy
> '94 Flareside Supercab
> "Hazardous Material"

Thats great Wayne. Don't know if ya'll saw it, but Ford is also
coming out with a 90's version of the old '55 T-Bird. The guy
that designed the new Volkwagon Bettle is now apparently
working for Ford. He is supposed to bring back the '55 T-Bird
as it was like on the exterior shell, and put all the knew stuff
under the hood.


- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 09:41:24 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - What to do

Ron Madurski... Why not take the engine out - put it on an engine stand - do
the necessary things to pull the crankshaft and install a new(or rebuilt one if
you prefer) and new bearings and seals and gaskets on the bottom end and stick
it back in the truck. I would think if you ordered the parts ahead of time, you
could do it in a long weekend by yourself.

Just another option....

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 09:42:46 -0500
From: "Golly, Scott M"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 92 Ford F-150 FIRE!!!

Gentlemen and ladies,

I am beside myself. I have a ford that I love but my father is having a
real hard time with his. I converted my entire family to Ford owners
because I like mine but now my father wants to buy a Jap Toyota. Last night
on the way home from work, my dads alternator caught on fire. This is the
third alternator in this truck. This truck is a 1992 Ford F-150 I6 Manual
two wheel drive. WHAT THE HELL!? I bought the truck new, then my dad bought
it from me with 70k on it. Does anybody no about tricks, recalls, lawsuits,
what ever? I have a 90 that can pull a house and will go anywhere and have
zero problems with and now I have to deal with this?????

Also, I am looking for a late 70's to early 80's Ford Bronco with an I6 and
manual transmission.

Scott M. Golly
Researcher/Fire Protection Engineer
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 09:46:22 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Volt Meter

Chris writes: >>My voltage gauge in my truck(94 Lightning) falls down in
between the N and the O in normal at night when I have my headlights on and my
blower on at the same time. First off is this normal? Or do I have a voltage
regulator problem? This only happens at idle, like at a light as soon as I hit
the gas it jumps right back up to the L in normal.

Normal operation. You may be idled a bit slow, but that is normal for an
alternator not to be able to meet the full demand of the blower, headlamps and
possibly other things at idle. Needs a few RPM's to do so.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 10:00:12 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '94 F150 tune-up & fuel filter location?

Steve Isham wrote:
>
> I am planning to perform a tune-up on my '94 F150. I have done several of
> these in the past, but never on my truck. One glaring question is where
> is the fuel filter located? I haven't searched the Owner's Manual yet,
> but if it is in there, I will check. Anybody have any heads up on doing
> a tuneup on an F150? Any suggestions to repair manuals, or how-to books?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
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It should be on he drivers side frame rail near the gas tank...I really
tight spot to get to(pain in the a**)! If they would of moved it 6
inches forwarded it would have been alot simpler
Chris
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 09:43:08 EST
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Code 41.. HEGO?

In a message dated 2/9/99 11:03:40 PM Pacific Standard Time, rspasoje gte.net
writes:


Oxygen
sensor. What it does is to measure the amount of O2 in the exhaust stream
which will tell the EEC whether the engine is running lean or rich so it can
adjust accordingly. It looks sort of like a spark plug screwed into the
exhaust pipe just behind the manifold. They do wear out over time so
perhaps your needs replacing, I would also check the wiring going to it to
make sure it has not been damaged or burnt.

Rade >>
Thanks for the response Rade, I've been looking through my books, and it was
actually staring me in the face, and I found it after you told me... DOH!!

Thanks again!

Joe
Lost in Jersey
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 08:52:18 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - FIXED: F250 Running Rough (LONG - with a good? story)

At 08:15 AM 2/12/99 , you wrote:
>This is a follow-up to a post I made on Wed 2/10/99 looking for help on my
>F250.
>They went over the Firestone diagnostic paperwork and were amazed how
Firestone
>managed to turn a fouled plug into over $400.00 worth of work....... ($700.00+
>if you count unnecessarily replacing all of my radiator hoses)
>
Sadly I've found this to be the rule rather than the exception. I live in
a college town, which amplifies things even more. My roommate this summer
had the brakes on his minivan go out ... Firestone here wanted $300 to put
on new pads and brake hoses and shoes. He needed all of these really
badly. They wanted to put on new rotors too, but he told them he didn't
want 'em. So he said he'd pick it up later that day ... they didn't get it
done, then weren't going to let him take the van since the brakes didn't
work. He ended up drivin it out of there not fixed and we did the whole
thing for less than $80 at home. I know there is quite a bit of labor
involved (well I did it, so I guess I know...), but they had doubled the
parts prices when we compared the estimate with what we paid. Everywhere
I've gone has seemed to do this, so now its pretty much a case of if I
don't know what's wrong, I take it in and let them diagnose it, then I do
the major work and maybe take it back to them for finetuning (like
alignment or something)....

Sad isn't it ?

Sorry, I'll step off my soapbox now ...

wish
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 10:04:26 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Lockup T C

Scott Giddens writes: >>We have lived without TC lock-ups for years. What would
make disengaging them burn up your transmission? The last automatic I had with
TC lock-up burned up because of debris from the TC clutch pads and I was told to
disconnect it to avoid it happening in the future.

Only thing I can think of is the fact that unlocked T C creates a bit more
heat(slippage between the vanes). The later vehicles tend to have just enough
cooling capacity to do the job as designed, so adding anything that would create
heat could inversely effect the cooling capability. The older trucks and cars
had monsterous cooling systems compared to todays, so a little extra cooling was
not a problem. I like the lockup feature itself, just not the way it is designed
to engage, so I try to make it shift when I want it to and not when some
computer or some other method tells it to.

All JMHO.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 07:02:04 -0800
From: spencer stromberglaw.com (Spencer)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco

Hey all -

First, thanks for the responses I got to my previous posting about my
Bronco's gearing/transmission. Now I have a new problem - I think my
starter is dead. When I went to start it this morning (20 degrees here),
the lights, radio, fan, etc. all worked (so the battery is fine) buy I get
nothing but a loud clicking noise when I try to start it up. It only
"clicks" once per turn of the key, if I hold the key turned all the way
there is nothing after the "click." I have had this noise a few times in
the past couple weeks, but it has always started OK on the second turn of
the key after the initial click. This is probably obvious, but I am an
inexperienced mechanic, so any tips on possible causes would help me head in
the right direction. BTW, the truck is: '85 Bronco EB, 351 (new 15 months
ago, 10000 miles), AT 3spd. I doubt the starter was replaced when the new
engine was installed - I bought the truck 3 months ago.

Spencer Stromberg
Spokane, WA

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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 09:40:33 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco

Spencer wrote:

> Hey all -
>
> First, thanks for the responses I got to my previous posting about my
> Bronco's gearing/transmission. Now I have a new problem - I think my
> starter is dead. When I went to start it this morning (20 degrees here),
> the lights, radio, fan, etc. all worked (so the battery is fine) buy I get
> nothing but a loud clicking noise when I try to start it up. It only
> "clicks" once per turn of the key, if I hold the key turned all the way
> there is nothing after the "click." I have had this noise a few times in
> the past couple weeks, but it has always started OK on the second turn of
> the key after the initial click. This is probably obvious, but I am an
> inexperienced mechanic, so any tips on possible causes would help me head in
> the right direction. BTW, the truck is: '85 Bronco EB, 351 (new 15 months
> ago, 10000 miles), AT 3spd. I doubt the starter was replaced when the new
> engine was installed - I bought the truck 3 months ago.

Spencer,
That is your starter selonoid that is clicking. If your starter
does not have the selonoid integrated as one unit, then the selenoid
will be mounted on the Passenger side fender next to the voltage
regulator which is close to the battery. Its the thingy(technical) that
has 4 wire ports on it. Let me ask you, does it matter if you jump it
to get it started ? Yeah, right now I'd say its time for a new starter,
since you said you have had signs of the brushes in the starter
wearing out.
But if it starts right up on a jump then it becomes electrical instead
of mechanical.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 10:37:29 -0500
From: "Christopher Maher"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - FIXED: F250 Running Rough (LONG - with a good? story)

What you don't seem to grasp is the fact that it is normal for a shop to
mark up the prices on parts. They have to make a profit so they can remain
in business. Remember the shop owner has rent, utilities, employee
salaries, and training, not to mention the high cost of equipment and tools
to contend with.
Sure you can buy the parts cheaper yourself, but when a shop installs them
you are paying for a service, and a warranty that if anything goes wrong,
the part will be replaced at the shops expense.
I'll agree there are a lot of unethical shops out there who create unneeded
work, and they give those of us trying to make an honest living a bad
reputation.


Christopher T. Maher
- -----Original Message-----
From: William S Hart
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: February 12, 1999 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - FIXED: F250 Running Rough (LONG - with a good?
story)


>At 08:15 AM 2/12/99 , you wrote:
>>This is a follow-up to a post I made on Wed 2/10/99 looking for help on my
>>F250.
>>They went over the Firestone diagnostic paperwork and were amazed how
>Firestone
>>managed to turn a fouled plug into over $400.00 worth of work.......
($700.00+
>>if you count unnecessarily replacing all of my radiator hoses)
>>
>Sadly I've found this to be the rule rather than the exception. I live in
>a college town, which amplifies things even more. My roommate this summer
>had the brakes on his minivan go out ... Firestone here wanted $300 to put
>on new pads and brake hoses and shoes. He needed all of these really
>badly. They wanted to put on new rotors too, but he told them he didn't
>want 'em. So he said he'd pick it up later that day ... they didn't get it
>done, then weren't going to let him take the van since the brakes didn't
>work. He ended up drivin it out of there not fixed and we did the whole
>thing for less than $80 at home. I know there is quite a bit of labor
>involved (well I did it, so I guess I know...), but they had doubled the
>parts prices when we compared the estimate with what we paid. Everywhere
>I've gone has seemed to do this, so now its pretty much a case of if I
>don't know what's wrong, I take it in and let them diagnose it, then I do
>the major work and maybe take it back to them for finetuning (like
>alignment or something)....
>
>Sad isn't it ?
>
>Sorry, I'll step off my soapbox now ...
>
>wish
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>

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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 09:41:20 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco

>First, thanks for the responses I got to my previous posting about my
>Bronco's gearing/transmission. Now I have a new problem - I think my
>starter is dead. When I went to start it this morning (20 degrees here),
>the lights, radio, fan, etc. all worked (so the battery is fine) buy I get
>nothing but a loud clicking noise when I try to start it up. It only
>"clicks" once per turn of the key, if I hold the key turned all the way
>there is nothing after the "click." I have had this noise a few times in
>the past couple weeks, but it has always started OK on the second turn of
>the key after the initial click.

Sounds to me like it is a dead battery, the battery is strong enough to
turn all of your accessories, but not necessarily the starter too ... try
a jump first, if that doesn't do it, then it may be the starter or
grounding issues.

Helpful tip: Turn off EVERYTHING before you start the car. If it is
really cold and the battery is "frozen" turning the lights on for a bit
might warm it up (get the juices in it flowin so you have more umpf), but
be sure and turn them off before you try and start it.

It sounds dumb I know, but a friend of mine said her car wouldn't start, so
her boyfriend and I went down to start it, the blower was on high, the
radio was on ... seems like something else was too... we shut everything
off, her little car started right up. May be different for a bigger truck,
but I know mine responded well to the lights on thing (course it was -30 at
the time too)


Just my 2cents

wish

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 09:43:19 -0600
From: bozo
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 92 Ford F-150 FIRE!!!

the alternator plugs are known to develop loose connections and, hence,
overheat. i don't know if there is a recall.

"Golly, Scott M" wrote:

> Gentlemen and ladies,
>
> I am beside myself. I have a ford that I love but my father is having a
> real hard time with his. I converted my entire family to Ford owners
> because I like mine but now my father wants to buy a Jap Toyota. Last night
> on the way home from work, my dads alternator caught on fire. This is the
> third alternator in this truck. This truck is a 1992 Ford F-150 I6 Manual
> two wheel drive. WHAT THE HELL!? I bought the truck new, then my dad bought
> it from me with 70k on it. Does anybody no about tricks, recalls, lawsuits,
> what ever? I have a 90 that can pull a house and will go anywhere and have
> zero problems with and now I have to deal with this?????
>
> Also, I am looking for a late 70's to early 80's Ford Bronco with an I6 and
> manual transmission.
>
> Scott M. Golly
> Researcher/Fire Protection Engineer
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --
'92 expl sport EB (extra bouncy)
'67 chevelle convertible
several yard cars (required for ala residency)


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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 10:56:09 -0500
From: "Doug McGuinn"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco

Could possibly be battery cable connection. When this happens to me, it is
usually the negative terminal that needs tightening, or maybe cleaning. If
your terminal is the type where the wires are held onto the terminal by the
metal piece that screws in, try removing the wires (be sure to check them
for acid buildup and corrosion and clean them with sandpaper or something),
then reinstall it and tighten the screws real tight. Also (I don't know why
this works sometimes; but it does), turn the terminal clamp to a different
location and tighten it up. Your engine may start now. If it does, replace
both of your battery cables, or else the same thing might happen again. It's
also a good idea to tighten the terminals once a week or so, because they
have a tendency to loosen from vibration. If this doesn't fix the problem,
your battery might be on its last leg. It might still be strong enough to
get enough juice for your lights etc. to work, but not strong enough for
your starter to work, especially considering the strength needed in cold
weather.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Spencer
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, February 12, 1999 10:11 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco


>Hey all -
>
>First, thanks for the responses I got to my previous posting about my
>Bronco's gearing/transmission. Now I have a new problem - I think my
>starter is dead. When I went to start it this morning (20 degrees here),
>the lights, radio, fan, etc. all worked (so the battery is fine) buy I get
>nothing but a loud clicking noise when I try to start it up. It only
>"clicks" once per turn of the key, if I hold the key turned all the way
>there is nothing after the "click." I have had this noise a few times in
>the past couple weeks, but it has always started OK on the second turn of
>the key after the initial click. This is probably obvious, but I am an
>inexperienced mechanic, so any tips on possible causes would help me head
in
>the right direction. BTW, the truck is: '85 Bronco EB, 351 (new 15 months
>ago, 10000 miles), AT 3spd. I doubt the starter was replaced when the new
>engine was installed - I bought the truck 3 months ago.
>
>Spencer Stromberg
>Spokane, WA
>
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 08:56:28 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Lockup T C

Very good points!

I agree with you, the lock-up feature is nice 99% of the time. I also agree
that the engineers who design these newer automotive systems tend to squeak
out every available ounce of cooling available to make the design work. The
article did say that stopping the pump would produce more heat due to lack
of circulation. I am positive that adding the lock-up feature would reduce
friction, maybe the only reason the E4OD is reliable today is the fact it
has this added advantage.

I am convinced the best approach to improve the performance of the E4OD is
to use a reputable electronic transmission shift kit and to not screw with
the TC lockup solenoid wire.

Thank you,
Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:am14 daimlerchrysler.com [SMTP:am14 daimlerchrysler.com]
> Sent:Friday, February 12, 1999 8:04 AM
> To:80-96-list Ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - Lockup T C
>
> Scott Giddens writes: >>We have lived without TC lock-ups for years. What
> would
> make disengaging them burn up your transmission? The last automatic I had
> with
> TC lock-up burned up because of debris from the TC clutch pads and I was
> told to
> disconnect it to avoid it happening in the future.
>
> Only thing I can think of is the fact that unlocked T C creates a bit more
> heat(slippage between the vanes). The later vehicles tend to have just
> enough
> cooling capacity to do the job as designed, so adding anything that would
> create
> heat could inversely effect the cooling capability. The older trucks and
> cars
> had monsterous cooling systems compared to todays, so a little extra
> cooling was
> not a problem. I like the lockup feature itself, just not the way it is
> designed
> to engage, so I try to make it shift when I want it to and not when some
> computer or some other method tells it to.
>
> All JMHO.
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 10:19:56 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 92 Ford F-150 FIRE!!!

Golly, Scott M wrote:

> Gentlemen and ladies,
>
> I am beside myself. I have a ford that I love but my father is having a

Then get outa the mirror............heheeheee, harr harrr


> third alternator in this truck. This truck is a 1992 Ford F-150 I6 Manual
> two wheel drive. WHAT THE HELL!? I bought the truck new, then my dad bought
> it from me with 70k on it. Does anybody no about tricks, recalls, lawsuits,
> what ever? I have a 90 that can pull a house and will go anywhere and have
> zero problems with and now I have to deal with this?????
>

Scott,
Here is a recall address to go and see what you can find out
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.alldata.com/
Did the other two burn up too ?


> Also, I am looking for a late 70's to early 80's Ford Bronco with an I6 and
> manual transmission.

Don't even begin to think of asking me for mine. :-)

> Scott M. Golly
> Researcher/Fire Protection Engineer

Uhhhhhhh, Scott.
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 10:24:10 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco

Doug McGuinn wrote:

> your battery might be on its last leg. It might still be strong enough to
> get enough juice for your lights etc. to work, but not strong enough for

Yeah,
I think it only takes like 1.5-2.0 volts to actually turn over the
starter. It just needs a little more to sustain the starter till the
engine actually starts.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 10:38:51 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - FIXED: F250 Running Rough (LONG - with a good? story)

>What you don't seem to grasp is the fact that it is normal for a shop to
>mark up the prices on parts. They have to make a profit so they can remain
>in business. Remember the shop owner has rent, utilities, employee
>salaries, and training, not to mention the high cost of equipment and tools
>to contend with.

I understand this, and I know that it seemed odd the way I said it, but the
parts store has to make a profit and pay for all but the tools too right ?
It still seems like double is way high, I'm not arguing they should be more
expensive, but double ??? If the part fails from the parts store there's
still a warranty on it too ... I dunno, I don't want to argue it, but it
just seems like 100% markup is quite a lot.


>I'll agree there are a lot of unethical shops out there who create unneeded
>work, and they give those of us trying to make an honest living a bad
>reputation.
>
Any tips on finding a good one ? (haven't found one yet and everyone asks
me since I "know something about cars")

Bill
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 10:41:03 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Lockup T C

>article did say that stopping the pump would produce more heat due to lack
>of circulation. I am positive that adding the lock-up feature would reduce
>friction, maybe the only reason the E4OD is reliable today is the fact it
>has this added advantage.
>I am convinced the best approach to improve the performance of the E4OD is
>to use a reputable electronic transmission shift kit and to not screw with
>the TC lockup solenoid wire.
>
Maybe you could add an auxillary cooler and the TC lockup control and get
the best of both worlds ??

Just my 2cents

wish

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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 10:48:40 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - FIXED: F250 Running Rough (LONG - with a good? st ory)

My dad worked at a Ford dealership his whole life and you would not believe
the crap that goes on.

I usually go to the small shops, the ones that have not created an empire or
have a the backing of a billion dollar corporation to advise them on how to
get the most money out of you. There are a lot of independent mechanics out
there with the best experience and honest intentions. One here in Boulder
Colorado that I really have complete trust in is called Hagglins. I had him
replace a timing chain once and he only charged me 80 bucks! He knew right
away what was wrong with it after talking to him on the phone. A few weeks
after that I was driving around town in my Scout II and the front hubs
started making noise. I pulled into his shop without warning and he pulled
them apart for me and said they just needed grease which he did for me and
didn't charge me for it. The only thing I would buy from a dealer would be
OEM sheet metal. That is only if I could not find a used one in a salvage
yard somewhere.

IMHO,
Stay away from the dealers unless it is warranty work. You will figure that
out the minute you see the price difference from what they charge Ford
corporation for warranty work than what they charge you. It is amazing how
the problem is quickly diagnosed, corrected, and inexpensive when it is
under warranty. When it is under warranty you will not see them screw the
corporation, but if it is you and I paying for it you can bet your life's
fortune they will find the most wrong with your vehicle. Every one of them
do it, there is no dealership that will not. It is standard practice and
they openly discuss it like it was a their responsibility to the company.

Take your vehicles to the small upcoming shops that live only on word of
mouth.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:William S Hart [SMTP:wish iastate.edu]
> Sent:Friday, February 12, 1999 9:39 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - FIXED: F250 Running Rough (LONG - with a
> good? story)
>
> >What you don't seem to grasp is the fact that it is normal for a shop to
> >mark up the prices on parts. They have to make a profit so they can
> remain
> >in business. Remember the shop owner has rent, utilities, employee
> >salaries, and training, not to mention the high cost of equipment and
> tools
> >to contend with.
>
> I understand this, and I know that it seemed odd the way I said it, but
> the
> parts store has to make a profit and pay for all but the tools too right ?
> It still seems like double is way high, I'm not arguing they should be
> more
> expensive, but double ??? If the part fails from the parts store there's
> still a warranty on it too ... I dunno, I don't want to argue it, but it
> just seems like 100% markup is quite a lot.
>
>
> >I'll agree there are a lot of unethical shops out there who create
> unneeded
> >work, and they give those of us trying to make an honest living a bad
> >reputation.
> >
> Any tips on finding a good one ? (haven't found one yet and everyone asks
> me since I "know something about cars")
>
> Bill
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 11:33:48 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 351W Oil Pan

>From: William S Hart
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 351W Oil Pan
>
>>I'm still scrounging parts for my new 351W to put in my '82 Ford F150.
>>Say, can anyone quickly tell me if the sump in the oil pan for this
>>application is front or rear?
>
>If its like the older stuff it depends on 2wd or 4wd ... 4 is rear to
clear
>the front axle mess, 2 is front ... that's the way the old FE's work, I
>wouldn't be too surprised to find it still true...

Yo Steve & Bill:

All the 1980-up trucks use the same frame and cross members for both 4x2
and 4x4 versions. AFAIK, all original engines in the later model trucks
(80-up) use a rear sump pan to clear the big front cross member.

I have seen a couple of trucks and vans that had a passenger car engine
swapped in, and with the shallower (less capacity) pass. car oil pan, the
front sump pan of some engines will fit in the later model trucks.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 13:33:06 -0500
From: "Doug McGuinn"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fixed: Another dead truck

I want to thank everyone for your advice. Problem turned out to be the
alternator shorting to ground. Put in a new alternator and the problem seems
to be solved. One good thing came out of this: I got to use my Discover Card
auto club for the first time. Found them very helpful and curtious. The cost
of the tow home was about the same as the total of all my monthly payments
so far, so I guess I've broken even.

Again, thanks to everyone and you gave me some good troubleshooting
techniques for future reference and use.

Doug

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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 13:39:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Hurley
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 92 Ford F-150 FIRE!!!

The electrical wire which plugs into the alternator must be replaced and
should be provided with the alternator as the catch does not hold up once
removed. Failure to do so results in the wires vibrating loose shorting
out and starting fires. It also voids your warranty on the alternator.

There ya go.

Robert Hurley p001393b pb.seflin.org


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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 11:55:51 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hub lubrication

>From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hub lubrication, was: What is wrong with people
>
>Dave Resch wrote:
>
>> Yo Casey et al:
>>
>> The last time I rebuilt my Warn hubs, the instruction sheet said to use
SAE
>> 30 engine oil to lubricate the hub locking units, not grease. The
>
>Dave, thanx I never knew what was recommended, I
>guess causeI've never gotten a knew set of hubs.
>I have always found enough spare parts at junkyards
>to rebuild mine. Although the supply is getting offley
>scarse.

Yo Rick:

Maybe I should have said "serviced" instead of re-built. The service kit
runs about $10 or so and includes new o-rings and retainer clips, and maybe
stickers for the knobs in older style "standard" hubs. The instruction
sheet in the Warn service kit is where I got the information about
lubrication. When servicing my hubs, I always soak the hub body in a
solvent to clean out any gunk and then work a little SAE 30 engine oil into
all the nooks and crannies before putting it back into the housing. I try
to get an overall light coating rather than have it dripping w/ oil.

Using Warn's standard manual hubs, the only hub failure I have experienced
in over 100K miles on my 1980 F250 (225K miles total), was a shim/washer
thing between the internal spring and outer hub body that wore out.
Actually, the unit still worked, but it was only a matter of time before
more things would be damaged by the worn part and I replaced the unit as
preventive maintenance.

When I found out that Warn didn't supply a replacement part for that
shim/washer, I scrapped that hub and bought a new set of Warn standards w/
a new design that eliminated that shim/washer weak link. I kept the other
old hub that still works for a spare, but I think I threw away the bad
unit.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 10:51:44 -0800
From: spencer stromberglaw.com (Spencer)
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco

Doug, Rick and Bill, thanks for your responses. I did try turning off
everything, but it still wouldn't do anything but that click. I didn't have
time to jump it (and couldn't find my cables), but I will try this evening.
I'll check the terminals, etc., although I looked not too long ago and no
corrosion, etc. Hopefully I can figure this out and fix it tomorrow - I
don't like walking by my truck to drive my wife's car ;-) I'll let you know
what I come up with.

Spencer
'85 Bronco EB, 351, AT 3spd

- -----Original Message-----
From:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Rick Wojciechowski
Sent:Friday, February 12, 1999 7:41 AM
To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco

Spencer,
That is your starter selonoid that is clicking. If your starter
does not have the selonoid integrated as one unit, then the selenoid
will be mounted on the Passenger side fender next to the voltage
regulator which is close to the battery. Its the thingy(technical) that
has 4 wire ports on it. Let me ask you, does it matter if you jump it
to get it started ? Yeah, right now I'd say its time for a new starter,
since you said you have had signs of the brushes in the starter
wearing out.
But if it starts right up on a jump then it becomes electrical instead
of mechanical.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-)
:-))


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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 14:13:22 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: New engine or Different truck....

If my 92 F-150 Ext.cab were an F-250 or 350, it would be a no-brainer! I'd
put a new/rebuilt engine in it WAY before shelling out big bucks on an
unknown quality used vehicle or HUGE bucks on new!!!!!

And that said...could I reasonably up the carrying capacity of my 150????
Perhaps even as far as running gear (diff. etc) from a 250?

My truck (freshly waxed) is looking damn good...and it's got the best
interior of ANY truck I've EVER driven (comfort wise)...I want a stronger
diff. geared higher than the wimpy 3.53 it's got now...and bigger brakes
could ONLY help!!!!!

But still...if I were you...and I loved my truck...it'd get an
engine!!!!!!!!!

David H.
dharmier get.net
Houston, TX
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 13:09:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Brent McNabb
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal

- ---Radoje Spasojevic wrote:
>
> Most places sell "stubby" wrenches which are only about 3" long so
that
> might do the trick for you.

Thanks! I'll have to look for one of those.
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 16:23:36 -0500
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: off idle dead spot

> Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 09:34:55 -0600
> From: William S Hart
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: off idle dead spot
>
> >I have a '93 F150 with a 4.9L six. The first motion of the
> accelerator
> >causes the rpm to dip before it climbs. I've changed plug
> wires, plugs, cap,
> >rotor, air filter and throttle position sensor. The problem
> is still there
> >but the motor seems strong, for a six, in every other way.
> It's hard to
> >drive smoothly when I don't put my foot in it hard enough to
> get past this
> >dead spot just off idle. Makes for lousy mileage too.
> >
> >Thanks for any ideas, Greg
> >

I had the exact same problem on my 86 f150 w/ I6. It took me
forever to figure out what was wrong with it. It ended up being
the exciter pump on the carb (a 4 bbl Holley) was not working
properly. The shaft it rotated on was rusted so it wasn't
giving that extra shot of gas when you put your foot in it.
I realize yours is fuel injected but maybe something with the
fuel delivery is not working right. Just a thought.

Mike
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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 15:29:42 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: FE 80-96 - Lockup T C

I already have the cooler that came stock with the heavy duty tow package.

If I had a way to monitor the transmission temperature I would give it a
try.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:William S Hart [SMTP:wish iastate.edu]
> Sent:Friday, February 12, 1999 9:41 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:RE: FTE 80-96 - Lockup T C
>
> >article did say that stopping the pump would produce more heat due to
> lack
> >of circulation. I am positive that adding the lock-up feature would
> reduce
> >friction, maybe the only reason the E4OD is reliable today is the fact it
> >has this added advantage.
> >I am convinced the best approach to improve the performance of the E4OD
> is
> >to use a reputable electronic transmission shift kit and to not screw
> with
> >the TC lockup solenoid wire.
> >
> Maybe you could add an auxillary cooler and the TC lockup control and get
> the best of both worlds ??
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> wish
>
> Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html
> '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Trucks/truck.html
> '96 Mustang GT
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Cars/mustang.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 18:50:17 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Pump

Jim-
Thanks for your note (below) about my power steering fluid question.

Replacing the pump is DIY. That is what is moaning and groaning, most
likely. You don't need to mess with the gearbox unless it is leaking
really
badly. Try replacing fluid on the PS pump. If the pump is bad, you won't

hurt it. If clean fluid makes it happy, run it a while longer. If not
replace it. Have them swap over the pulley for you at the auto parts
store.
New pump deserves new hoses. (Splurge!) Filter in the return line is
also a
good idea. The auto parts guys will know what I'm talking about. Cheap.

I removed the pump this afternoon following the Haynes manual and plan
to go tomorrow AM and ask the parts people to remove the pulley so I can
get a new pump from them, attach it to the adjustment bracket and have
them reinstall the pulley. I also plan to follow your advice about
replacing the lines and the filter. The return hose seems to be nothing
more than a short section of rubber hose with screw clamps at both
ends. The pressure hose seems much more complex and looks to connect
with fittings at both ends. Where is the filter in the return line that
you mentioned? Do I need to remove and carry both lines with me to the
parts house or will they be able to identify what I need from the pump
and "year/make/model/engine type" of my truck? Sorry if these seem to
be basic questions. I am trying to learn DYI and have to ask since I
don't have much experience.
Thanks for your courtesy.
Regards,
Tom Gunby

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 16:55:41 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E4OD interceptor

FLR150 aol.com wrote:
>
> Dana,
> I am still trying to find out which tranny I have but I have quite a few
> friends here that would be interested in that device. I'm sure some of the
> other guys on the list would like to check it out too. Could you post the
> address or numbers and who you spoke with. Maybe if enough of us buy it we
> could get a group discount!!!
> Wayne Foy
> '94 Flareside Supercab


I just got back to work after a day off and read all the posts about the
TC lock-up disable. I agree that disabling while in OD may create added
heat from the hydrualic action of the TC but I only disable when in
town, if I get to OD speed I enable the lock-up. Since I have installed
the ATG "interceptor I have not disabled the lock-up at all. Now my
truck does a nice crisp 1-2 shift, keeps pulling strong through second,
does a nice crisp 2-3 shift, by this time I'm up to speed and then an
almost undeterminate slip into TC lock-up and if I continue to gain
speed the a crisp shift into OD follows. No more engine bogging from
early lock-up (Right after 1-2 shift).

Some E4ODs lock-up after the 2-3 shift some after the 1-2 shift. If you
experience early lock-up which kills your power I'd recommend the
"interceptor". Easy install and only about $120 with delivery. Cheap
performance mod IMO. Check out http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.atg-autotrans.com/ for more
info.

Dana Bartholomew
1993 F350 crew cab
4x4 460 E4OD, K&N,Gibson cat-back
4" lift, 37" "Hummer" tires
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 17:34:36 -0800
From: spencer stromberglaw.com (Spencer)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dead Bronco

FYI guys, it was my starter solenoid that was bad. After I looked at the
job of replacing the starter, I decided to take it to a local independent
mechanic who has always been very reasonable with me (another subject of the
list lately). I quoted me $100 parts and labor for the starter, but ended
up charging me about $75 for the parts and labor on the solenoid, and the
air and breather filters (I had asked him to look at the air filter box,
too). Not bad. Starts right up now. Thanks again for your responses
earlier.

Spencer Stromberg
'85 Bronco, 351, AT 3spd

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 20:51:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Rick Private
....


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