80-96-list-digest Friday, February 12 1999 Volume 03 : Number 041



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - voltage
Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal
Re: FTE 80-96 - 351W Oil Pan
Re: FTE 80-96 - Timing chain Cover
FTE 80-96 - Pinging (my solution)
Re: FTE 80-96 - New motor or new truck?
FTE 80-96 - Re: voltage
FTE 80-96 - Re: Timing cover

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Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 22:17:53 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - voltage

Chris,
Do you have the Underdrive pulleys on your truck? Mine reacts the same and I
have the MAC Underdrive set. It has been typical since I put them on for it to
be in the same range you speak of.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside Page
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Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 20:15:22 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal

Most places sell "stubby" wrenches which are only about 3" long so that
might do the trick for you.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brent McNabb
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, February 12, 1999 2:17 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal


>---Radoje Spasojevic wrote:
>>
>> I just used an open end wrench on mine, just be sure and clean off
>all the
>> baked on dirt from around it.
>
>Mine's quite clean, even before I sprayed all the penetrant on it. I
>tried to use a open end, which I found a 7/8s fits, but once I get it
>around the sensor, I can't turn it. The wrench itself is 7 or so
>inchesm long. Is there a shorter version of a 7/8s?
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
> >
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>

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Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 20:15:39 -0800
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 351W Oil Pan

Steve

My 1986 351W 4X4 is a rear sump

Dennis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Likness
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, February 11, 1999 10:37 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 351W Oil Pan


>I'm still scrounging parts for my new 351W to put in my '82 Ford F150.
>Say, can anyone quickly tell me if the sump in the oil pan for this
>application is front or rear? It looks like it should be a front sump,
>but some of my pictures in the Chilton's look like it should be a rear
>sump.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve
>
>______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 20:36:36 -0800
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Timing chain Cover

Rick

Make sure you also check out the seal surface of the damper. If its grooved
or unfit for sealing, it needs to be fixed or replaced.

Either buy a new damper or purchase a sleeve kit.

The sleeve kit requires you to clean up the surface. Then apply a sealer to
the surface, prior to installing the sleeve. Some sleeve kits include the
correct sealer.

I apply a little anti-seize compound to the crank/damper surface in case the
damper has to come off again.

Also make sure the new seal is well oiled. I use an oil/wheel bearing
grease combo. If you turn over the engine with a dry seal, you'll be
replacing it in short order.

Dennis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rick Wojciechowski
To: FORD Truck List
Date: Thursday, February 11, 1999 10:43 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Timing chain Cover


>Gang,
> After cleaning and degreasing the heck out of my oil pan
>and front of engine, it appears that its my timing chain cover
>that is doing the oil leaking rather than the oilpan as I first
>thought. So let me ask, what do I all need to deal with in replacing
>the gasket. And any hints or tips are always welcome.
>Is it a PITA job or pretty much straight forward easy, but
>and just time consuming job.
>
>--
>Thanks,
> Rick Wojo
> '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
> '92 Mstng 5.0L
> '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March
>:-) :-))
>
>
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Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 22:22:13 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Pinging (my solution)

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 10:47:10 -0500
From: Jason DiSalvo
Subject: [none]

Hi Guys, I have a 1997 F250 HD. 351 4X4 Automatic...I am having a pinging
problem..Not gas problem. Using all types still pings. Any Ideas?


My 92 F-150 5.0 did it...(on 93 octane gas fron several different places)
...on a whim I moved my 3-4 month old Autozone crap plug wires as far apart
from one another as possible....it has never pinged again (this time on
regular 87 octane gas!!!)
And I have since changed to new Motorcraft wires (still as far apart as I
could get 'em)

It SHOULD help!

David H.
dharmier gte.net
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Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 21:11:09 -0800
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New motor or new truck?

Ron

You know whats wrong with your truck. You don't with others.

I considered spending $35000 for what I wanted but kinda figured there was a
cheaper way to do it so...

I bought my 86 4x4 with 130K on it that had been owned by the state. The
drivers door had the only straight metal. I pounded out the dents and had
it painted. Then I pulled the engine. Had a shop do the machine work and I
twisted the wrench, adding a aftermarket cam and high-volume oil pump.
Stuck on some new brakes. Put in a leather seat (to keep the wife happy).
Pulled out the old radio and put a stereo in (to keep me happy). By now I
have more money in it than its probably worth but...

I'm not planning on selling it. It's probably good for another 130K. No
warranty but if something breaks, I can fix it. No fuel injection or fancy
electronics that requires special tools or instruments.

What would I do if I were you? I don't know. I guess it all depends on what
your plans are, how much money you have and how much time you have, not to
mention, whether you want to admire someones else workmanship or yours.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Dennis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ron Madurski
To: 'trucks'
Date: Thursday, February 11, 1999 7:34 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New motor or new truck?


>
>I have a '85 F250 4x4 Ext. Cab Diesel with about 340K miles on the
>original motor. It has had a slight rod knock since I bought it about 2
>years ago. In the last 2 weeks it has gotten progressively worse and
>now I can not only hear it but I can feel it. The body is pretty rough
>but I have new fenders and cab corners to put on it.
>
>I need it to be more reliable than it is right now (ie. It may be doing
>some long distance hauling the next few months as I move to WV). I am
>contemplating replacing the truck with a different one (not necessarily
>newer, but different). Unfortunately, the 4x4 Ext. Cab Diesel combo is
>a bit hard to come by in my price range (up to around $12K). I can find
>them higher and a lot lower (read that as high mileage already). The
>configuration is not up for debate, I like having the 4x4 and use it
>several times/month for various things. I need the Ext. cab to haul the
>kids around, and the diesel is necessary for towing the race car and
>club trailer (I know a gas engine will do it, but not at 18-20 MPG). Oh
>yeah, I also want it to have a manual transmission.
>
>You can see a piece of the truck at
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.neokla-scca.org/rallyx299/Image12.jpg this was at our
>January RallyCross event. There are pictures of me stuck in the mud
>with the trailer behind it somewhere but I can't find them :-)
>
>I have a good bit of money invested in the truck already:
>
>$2000 to buy it.
>$ 600 stereo
>$ 300 tires
>$ 400 new bed and bumper
>$ 100 hitch and trailer brake controller
>$1500 overdrive from Advance Adapters
>
>If it were not knocking so badly I would probably get out of it what I
>have into it (based on the prices of similar trucks in this area). I
>can get a freshly rebuilt 6.9L for $3400, plus another $750 if I don't
>feel like installing it myself (I will probably do the install myself if
>time permits). For that $750 I could get new seats and carpet and a new
>engine hoist. The rebuilt unit is a complete engine including Fuel Inj
>pump, Fuel injectors, glow plugs, glow plug controller, heads, oil
>cooler, water pump, pan, sleeved cylinders, new valve springs, new
>valves, and new pistons.
>
>I would never be able to recoup the cost of this motor if I sold the
>truck.
>
>The alternative is to buy a truck with a bunch of miles on it again.
>I've got one to look at on Thursday (He lives about 150 miles away and
>is going to meet me halfway). It is an 88 with 166K miles on it. He
>says the body is a little rough, no rust but it's been dented on one
>fender and one side of the bed, apparently it was bumped into a cow or
>two :-) He is asking $6000 for it.
>
>So, all that being said. What would you do? and, if you think getting
>a different truck would be the route to take, do you have any opinions
>on what years to gravitate towards or avoid?
>
>Thanks for your time.
>
>Ron Madurski
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Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 23:23:17 -0600
From: Ezekial
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: voltage

Both of my trucks always did this. I've put a stereo system in both and
that makes the thing drop more. I never had a problem starting it
though and never a dead battery. I think it is that the alternators
aren't making enough charge til like 1000rmp because anywhere at idle my
trucks would ALWAYS do what you decscribe and just tap the gas and
everything is back up to speed. So don't worry about it and the only
advice I could give is getting a high amp racing alternator. But,
really its a waste of money. So just let it be.

- --
1993 Ford F-150 4x4 Off-Road, ext.cab short bed, 351(5.8)
3.55 gears, 31x10.5 Daytona Stag LT
1988 Ford F-150 2wd 302(5.0) auto, long bed-reg cab
Has been totaled and I am re-building it
Was my Grandpas truck, so theres sentimental value
It had the meanest factory 302 I have ever seen
1966 Mustang Fastback 289HP heads, 302block, Holley 4bbl,
EB intake, chrome headers-duals w/ super turbos,
4sp toploader, 9' rear 3.73 locked, Crager SS wheels
( F O R S A L E $7500-obo )
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.galstar.com/~derrick/index.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.galstar.com/~derrick/cars.html
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Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 23:42:00 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Timing cover

Rick, on that big six cover, water pump can stay on. the only hard part is
getting the crank balancer off. Usually the puller required is too long, so
radiator has to be yanked out. after Balancer is off it is pretty straight
forward. The bottom of the cover is sealed to the the pan, kinda tricky with
R&R of cover-to-pan bolts on the ends of cover but not brain surgery.
The gasket should come as a kit, meaning you get the crank seal also.
....


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