80-96-list-digest Thursday, February 11 1999 Volume 03 : Number 038



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Anyone know of any trucks?
FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough
[none]
FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal
Re: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck
FTE 80-96 - This weird EGR solution might help...
Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough
Re: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck
FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough
FTE 80-96 - E4OD interceptor
Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough
Re: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck
FTE 80-96 - Brake booster
Re: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck
FTE 80-96 - Hub lubrication, was: What is wrong with people
FTE 80-96 - Re: Parking brake freezing?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake booster
RE: FTE 80-96 - Brake booster
FTE 80-96 - Torque Converter Lock Control
FTE 80-96 - Frozen rr wheel
Re: FTE 80-96 - Hub lubrication, was: What is wrong with people
FTE 80-96 - Salvage Shopping
Sears auto service (was Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake booster
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake booster
FTE 80-96 - Fw: Online Land Grabbers Poll
Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough
FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid
Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid
Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid
FTE 80-96 - Dealer service, or lack thereof. (kinda long)
RE: FTE 80-96 - Torque Converter Lock Control
Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dealer service, or lack thereof. (kinda long)
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fw: Online Land Grabbers Poll
Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid
Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid
FTE 80-96 - 300 CI switch over to 351windsor how hard is it?
FTE 80-96 - Re: off idle dead spot
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: A.R.E Tonneau covers and truck caps
RE: FTE 80-96 - Brake booster
RE: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: off idle dead spot
FTE 80-96 - Re:
Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid
FTE 80-96 - Ford Service

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 08:48:53 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Anyone know of any trucks?

Hey all, just recently joined this list, some of you have seen me on the
Offroad, Performance, and 61-79 lists. My jump to this list stemms from my
dad's search for a pickup ... wonderin if maybe any of you could help
him/me out ...

He's lookin for an 87-91 or possibly up to 93 depending on price ...
Anyway here's what he's lookin for :

87-92 5.8L A/T 4x4

Prefer Red, though he had a black one for a week that he loved (it was a
5.0 upon closer inspection so he took it back). He wants to be able to
haul a car trailer with it occasionally, other than that it won't see much
more than commuter driving and occasional hauling. Also like low mileage
in the midwest with no rust ... but as he says people in h*ll want ice
water too ...

Anyway if anyone has or knows of one of these for sale, please lemme know.


Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390
96 Mustang GT

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:30:05 -0500
From: CONWAY pjm.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough

My '92 F250HD 5.8 started running rough yesterday morning. It started fine, but
it shakes when it idles, and also under part-throttle load. If I step on the
gas hard while moving it initially accelerates badly (shaking), then it
downshifts.

I'm also getting a "fuel" smell in the cab, the exhaust note has definitely
changed (sounds like a "miss"), and when I got home from work last night after a
15 ride home, there was a definite "burnt" smell outside the truck.

I didn't get a "check engine" light or any other visual indicator of a problem.

Anyone have any ideas? It's in the shop now, and I'm waiting to hear what they
have to say.


Chuck Conway
conway pjm.com
'92 F250HD XLT 4x4, 5.8, Tuff-Country front Leveling Kit, Goodyear Wrangler MT
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Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 10:47:10 -0500
From: Jason DiSalvo
Subject: [none]

Hi Guys, I have a 1997 F250 HD. 351 4X4 Automatic...I am having a pinging
problem..Not gas problem. Using all types still pings. Any Ideas?

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:54:10 -0500
From: "Doug McGuinn"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck

My truck (89 F-150, 302) was totally dead Sunday. Got it started with a
jump. Next day it was dead again. Bought a new battery (the old battery was
only 7 months old, so there was no charge for the new one). Put the new
battery in yesterday morning. Truck started fine all day yesterday. This
morning, however, the new battery was completely drained. I did notice when
I put the new battery in, that when I conected the negative terminal, there
were a few sparks and a sizzling sound when I touched the cable to the
terminal. Is this normal, or is it a sign that something is pulling juice
off the battery, even though the switch was off? Any hints as to what could
be draining the battery and how to troubleshoot it would be greatly
appreciated.

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 08:04:44 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal

I just used an open end wrench on mine, just be sure and clean off all the
baked on dirt from around it.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brent McNabb
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 11:11 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal


>First of all, I'd like to thank all who responded to my query about
>the rear taillights, it turned out to be I had broke the ground wire.
>I do have another problem now, and that is with the oxygen sensor.
>The engine is a stock 302, the sensor is mounted in the passenger side
>exhaust manifold, and is quite difficult to get to. I can get a
>sensor socket on the sensor, but cannot find the room to turn the
>ratchet enough to break it loose. Right now I'm soaking it in
>penetrant, and while I'm waiting, I was wondering how other people got
>the sensor out... Right now it looks like I'm going to have to use a
>wrench.
>
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
> >
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>

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:30:36 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck

Doug McGuinn wrote:

> My truck (89 F-150, 302) was totally dead Sunday. Got it started with a
> jump. Next day it was dead again. Bought a new battery (the old battery was
> only 7 months old, so there was no charge for the new one). Put the new
> battery in yesterday morning. Truck started fine all day yesterday. This
> morning, however, the new battery was completely drained. I did notice when
> I put the new battery in, that when I conected the negative terminal, there
> were a few sparks and a sizzling sound when I touched the cable to the
> terminal. Is this normal, or is it a sign that something is pulling juice
> off the battery, even though the switch was off? Any hints as to what could
> be draining the battery and how to troubleshoot it would be greatly
> appreciated.

Doug,
Start with the voltage regulator. If you have the fender mounted one
then that can easily be checked. If you have the one internal to the
alternator, then I think AutoZone can give you a free check. I have
never had an internal one, so I am not sure exactly how to check
that kind.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 09:24:13 -0700
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - This weird EGR solution might help...

Hey all,

Sorry for not inputing my two pesos lately, its been real busy around here.
But I need to share something I think might help those with the EGR codes. I
was not getting the Check Engine light on my '95 Ford 302, 5 speed, but I
was getting some hesitation off the line. Checked everything including the
wire routing, plugs, cap, rotor, etc... In the process of looking for a
small vacuum leak/cracked line, I was fiddling (technical term here) over by
the EGR and Thermactor Air solenoids - over by the TFI coil - and there was
this little round black plastic cover about an inch in diameter. You know;
"What the heck is this?"
Well I pop the cover off and lo and behold, I have this foam air filter in
there. I ran it under the faucet and needless to day with 131K miles on the
truck, it was FILTY! Shame on me! I dried it off and reinstalled it and the
stumbling was gone.
I have not figured out how this filter interacts with the EGR, and found
nothing so far in the Ford Service Manual, but it worked! Anyone know how
this filter interacts with the EGR? It must be some sort of a bleed off for
vacuum.
Check it out, let me know. Hope this helps someone out there.

Tomorrow (Thursday) we are going to the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show and
staying in Bisbee AZ for a couple of nights. So I will be out and about
until Monday. We are taking the road from Santa TheresaNM, Columbus,
Hachitas to Animas and then heading south into the Coronado National Forest,
which happens to run out of pavement and gets real fun over the
mountains."Honey, lock up the hub on your side, I'll get my side!" Spousal
unit does not know about that part yet, should be lots of fun getting there.
She a great sport.

Fred Moreno KD5AQB
Autotronic Controls Corp. - Alternate Fuels Div.
El Paso TX employed, La Union NM (village idiot)
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 11:33:35 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough

CONWAY pjm.com wrote:
>
> My '92 F250HD 5.8 started running rough yesterday morning. It started fine, but
> it shakes when it idles, and also under part-throttle load. If I step on the
> gas hard while moving it initially accelerates badly (shaking), then it
> downshifts.
>
> I'm also getting a "fuel" smell in the cab, the exhaust note has definitely
> changed (sounds like a "miss"), and when I got home from work last night after a
> 15 ride home, there was a definite "burnt" smell outside the truck.
>
WAG--fuel rail,r injector or pressure regulator leaking. In that order.

- --
Andre
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 11:36:10 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck

Doug McGuinn wrote:
>
> My truck (89 F-150, 302) was totally dead Sunday. Got it started with a
> jump. Next day it was dead again. ...

[new battery]

> .... This
> morning, however, the new battery was completely drained. I did notice when
> I put the new battery in, that when I conected the negative terminal, there
> were a few sparks and a sizzling sound when I touched the cable to the
> terminal. Is this normal,
>
No

> or is it a sign that something is pulling juice
> off the battery, even though the switch was off?
>
Yes

> Any hints as to what could
> be draining the battery and how to troubleshoot it would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
Pull one fuse at a time. When the current drain stops, you've found the
circuit. Now trace the circuit until you find the culprit.

First guess. A burned-out lightbulb that's managed to short itself or a
wire with the insulation chafed through.
- --
Andre
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:53:19 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck

>terminal. Is this normal, or is it a sign that something is pulling juice
>off the battery, even though the switch was off? Any hints as to what could
>be draining the battery and how to troubleshoot it would be greatly
>appreciated.
>
There was some discussion of this on the 61-79 group last month, you might
check the archives and see if you can find it ... seems like basically you
unplug the stereo fuse and the dome light (same one?) ... then put a light
bulb hooked up so you can tell if you've got juice comin from the battery
... and just pull fuses til you find the one that shuts the light off ...

Harder to do in the newer trucks I imagine, but it might be worth a shot ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Trucks/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:02:34 -0800
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck

>My truck (89 F-150, 302) was totally dead Sunday. Got it started with a
>jump. Next day it was dead again. Bought a new battery (the old battery was
>only 7 months old, so there was no charge for the new one). Put the new
>battery in yesterday morning. Truck started fine all day yesterday. This
>morning, however, the new battery was completely drained. I did notice when
>I put the new battery in, that when I conected the negative terminal, there
>were a few sparks and a sizzling sound when I touched the cable to the
>terminal. Is this normal, or is it a sign that something is pulling juice
>off the battery, even though the switch was off? Any hints as to what could
>be draining the battery and how to troubleshoot it would be greatly
>appreciated.
>

There are a two relays that control power going to the computer and the
fuel pumps. They are located one right next to the other right behind the
air filter box. Check to see if either one is stuck. I'm guessing but it
might be that the fuel pump relay is staying closed when the ignition key
is removed. This is a known problem with late 80s fords. (the contacts
become pitted and consequently stick)

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Ponsford721-7397 or mponsfor uvic.ca


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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:35:42 PST
From: "Steve Likness"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough

Sounds like a fouled plug or two. Could be caused by running too rich
or maybe some oil leaking past rings or valve guides. If you pull the
plugs and find one or more that are "wet" with gas/oil, try using a
hotter plug and lean out the carb a little.

Steve

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:40:44 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E4OD interceptor

I figured I'd send an update on my E4OD problem. If you'll recall I had
the early torque converter lock-up. I installed the switch to disable
lock-up and I was very happy with it. I had ordered the "interceptor"
from ATG before I did the switch. The interceptor plugs into the wiring
harness and transmission and allows you to increase line pressure for
more crisp shifts and gives you the ability to delay the TC lock-up.
These adjustments are made via two small pots located on the interceptor
itself. I installed it a few days ago and I'm very impressed with it.
I have not disabled the lock-up via the switch since I put it in. The
lock-up used to occur right after the 1-2 shift. Now with the delay set
to about 80% the lock-up happens a few seconds after the 2-3 shift. I'm
usually at cruising speed and not under acceleration by this point and I
don't even notice the lock-up.

If anyone wants more info let me know. The interceptor is about $120
with shipping and took about 20 minutes to put in.

Dana Bartholomew
1993 F350 crew cab
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 13:46:59 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough

bad wires... fouled plug..
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 13:48:31 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck

can you say SHORT CIRCUT????? get yourself a test lite and a wiring
diagram....or go to the ATM and start getting cash for the mechanic and lots
of it
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:51:51 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brake booster

I'm doing the brakes on my 93 F350 tomorrow. Pads, shoes, new rear
drums, new hardware all around and a new vacuum booster. I was
wondering if anyone has replaced their booster and has any advice or
little tricks to make the install more simple. It appears to be pretty
straight forward but I know how those straight forward jobs can
sometimes go.

I went to Brake Depot for a free brake inspection. Their estimate was
$580 without the booster. I went to Autozone picked up everything I
needed including rear drums and a booster for $268. And I know it will
be done right. I've never seen a more worthless pathetic group of
so-called mechanics as I did that day at Brake Depot. It was scary.
Even if their estimate had been $100 for everything I'd had driven away,
quickly.

That's all,

Dana Bartholomew
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:55:52 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Another dead truck

If it's the internal regulator, the only way to isolate it is by removing the
power wire off the back.
Another way to check for the battery drain( and that sounds like that is what is
happening), is to remove each fuse, on at a time and then try the negative term
trick. Or better yet, put a VOM Meter between the neg bat term and the neg cable.
If you set it to look for amps, you should see the drain. Remove a fuse, look at
the meter. If you go this route, make sure you start at the highest reading
available, the scale down until you get a good reading. This will keep you from
poppnig a fuse in the VOM Meter.

Good Luck.

Bob


Rick Wojciechowski wrote:

> Doug McGuinn wrote:
>
> > My truck (89 F-150, 302) was totally dead Sunday. Got it started with a
> > jump. Next day it was dead again. Bought a new battery (the old battery was
> > only 7 months old, so there was no charge for the new one). Put the new
> > battery in yesterday morning. Truck started fine all day yesterday. This
> > morning, however, the new battery was completely drained. I did notice when
> > I put the new battery in, that when I conected the negative terminal, there
> > were a few sparks and a sizzling sound when I touched the cable to the
> > terminal. Is this normal, or is it a sign that something is pulling juice
> > off the battery, even though the switch was off? Any hints as to what could
> > be draining the battery and how to troubleshoot it would be greatly
> > appreciated.
>
> Doug,
> Start with the voltage regulator. If you have the fender mounted one
> then that can easily be checked. If you have the one internal to the
> alternator, then I think AutoZone can give you a free check. I have
> never had an internal one, so I am not sure exactly how to check
> that kind.
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Rick Wojo
> '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
> '92 Mstng 5.0L
> '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))
>
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 12:03:12 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hub lubrication, was: What is wrong with people

> From: Casey Vandor [SMTP:cvandor hotmail.com]
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: What is wrong with people
>
>What type of lube for the manual hubs works good
>in really cold weather?
>but they say that the heavy duty ford grease
>is what they use. I had to unlock the hubs to tow the
>truck and they BARELY turned, almost to the point I
>thought I was going to break the plastic knobs.
>
>From: "Giddens, Scott"
>Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: What is wrong with people
>
>I know what you mean, it is very tough to turn them in
>the sub-zero weather here in Colorado also.

Yo Casey et al:

I'm not sure what kind of locking hubs you guys have, so this may not apply
to you.

The last time I rebuilt my Warn hubs, the instruction sheet said to use SAE
30 engine oil to lubricate the hub locking units, not grease. The
instructions specifically cautioned against using an excessive amount of
lubricant because it can run out of the locking unit and interfere w/ the
handle, and they cautioned against using grease because it can cause slow
engagement/disengagement in lower temperatures.

W/ the Warn manual hub design, the handle simply moves a cam against a
spring that engages or disengages the hub by applying or releasing pressure
on the hub body. There is no direct connection between the handle itself
and the hub body.

The only purpose of the lubricant in the hub unit is to prevent corrosion
and to allow the hub locking mechanism to engage and disengage w/ less
friction. The only time anything moves in the hub unit is when you rotate
the handle to change the spring pressure, i.e., when they are locked and
unlocked. There are no moving parts in the hub involved w/ power transfer.

The problems you describe sound like they might be the result of using too
much lubricant (and probably too viscous) so that the excess lubricant
interferes w/ turning the handle itself. Partial hub engagement (which can
be caused by excess/improper lubricant) is the most common cause of hub
failure.

Dave R (M-block devotee)


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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 13:11:05 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Parking brake freezing?

In my experience with frozen parking brakes it is not the drum and stuff at
the wheel, it is the cables themselves. Where the cable splits to each
wheel it becomes a sheathed cable. The sheathed sections must be water
proof. The sheathing can become knicked and the rubber boots that seal the
cable entry points can deteriorate. In my experience, you have to pull
these cables, lube them and do whatever it takes to make them waterproof
again. May need replacement.
David Anderson

>When I am in the mountains (snow and below freezing temperatures), if I
put on my parking brake, and leave the truck (94 f150 4wd) for most of the
day (while I snowboard) when I try to leave, the right rear wheel will not
turn




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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:18:43 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake booster

Dana Bartholomew wrote:
>
> I'm doing the brakes on my 93 F350 tomorrow. Pads, shoes, new rear
> drums, new hardware all around and a new vacuum booster. I was
> wondering if anyone has replaced their booster and has any advice or
> little tricks to make the install more simple. It appears to be pretty
> straight forward but I know how those straight forward jobs can
> sometimes go.
>
A _DEEP_ 9/16th socket. There's two nuts that absolutely require it. No
other way to get at them. That caused a trip to Canadian Tire part way
through the job for one. Hmmm, and a flat 9/16th wrench, better yet, one
of those ratcheting flat wrenches.

It is pretty straight forward. Just be careful when removing the master
cylinder that you don't kink the brake lines. If you do, your 'straight
forward' job becomes a lot more 'crooked backwards' ;-)

Lessee, a pair of needle nose pliers will get the clip off the pivot on
the pedal. You don't have to disconnect the brake light switch, just
sort of move it out of the way.

The Haynes manual (all I have to go on) does say that it's very
important that the actuator rod (or pin or whatever it's called that
sticks out of the booster) be exactly 0.99999 inches or something just
under one inch. They show how to fab a little gadget for ensuring that.
I used a "new to me" booster from a yard, so I just went by the
assumption that it was already correctly adjusted. Seems to work fine.

Since mine was used, I did wire-brush the whole thing and paint it with
tremclad. The paint on these boogers is pretty thin.
- --
Andre
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 12:31:07 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Brake booster

While you have the pads off you might as well pull the rotors also and have
them turned or your front brakes will pulsate at high speeds and under heavy
brake pressure.

It seems so strange to me that you have to pay someone that amount of money
AND have them screw your truck up at the same time.

I was watching the mechanics at Sears tear my brakes apart and "inspect
them" when I bought some new tires and the guy drops my rear drum on the
floor from about 5 feet. I stormed through the door (the one you are not
supposed to go through for insurance reasons, yeah right!) and told the guy
he had no business disassembling my brakes to just put on a set of tires. I
told him that I do my brakes myself and never do anything to my truck I
didn't ask them to do again.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Dana Bartholomew [SMTP:danabart wizard.com]
> Sent:Wednesday, February 10, 1999 11:52 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - Brake booster
>
> I'm doing the brakes on my 93 F350 tomorrow. Pads, shoes, new rear
> drums, new hardware all around and a new vacuum booster. I was
> wondering if anyone has replaced their booster and has any advice or
> little tricks to make the install more simple. It appears to be pretty
> straight forward but I know how those straight forward jobs can
> sometimes go.
>
> I went to Brake Depot for a free brake inspection. Their estimate was
> $580 without the booster. I went to Autozone picked up everything I
> needed including rear drums and a booster for $268. And I know it will
> be done right. I've never seen a more worthless pathetic group of
> so-called mechanics as I did that day at Brake Depot. It was scary.
> Even if their estimate had been $100 for everything I'd had driven away,
> quickly.
>
> That's all,
>
> Dana Bartholomew
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 13:31:02 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Torque Converter Lock Control

I've learned allot of good things from this list and hopefully provided a
few solutions. But, lately the coolest thing I've learned is the info about
being able to control TC lockup on the earlier E4OD's. I've forgotten who
started that, but thanks. At this point I have a new switch on the dash
labeled "TC Lock". The computer program in my truck is one that locks the
TC in every gear except 1st. For my mostly around town driving the first
thing I did every time I got in was hit the OD OFF button otherwise I'd end
up in fourth gear at about 35 mph turning around 900 rpm. Even for the I6
that's not the best for responsiveness. Anyway, turning off lockup gets rid
of the small lockup "bumps", overall runs the engine 300 - 400 rpm higher,
frees me from hitting that OD button and just makes the truck more pleasant
to drive. Plus when I go on the highway I can enable lockup and eeck out
that extra MPG. Thanks again for the idea.

David Anderson

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:34:18 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Frozen rr wheel

Andrew Funk writes: >>I would guess that something is getting frozen so that
the parking brake is not properly releasing. Has anyone experienced something
like this and what is the best solution (if I do not engage the parking brake, I
have no problem, but I think I should be able to engage the parking brake even
in snowy below freezing conditions).

Wet (saturated) brake cables will do that. You might try installing a rubber
sleeve of some type over the cables from where they split into two cables to the
drums. (shrink tubing or gas line or something)

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 13:49:52 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hub lubrication, was: What is wrong with people

Dave Resch wrote:

> Yo Casey et al:
>
> The last time I rebuilt my Warn hubs, the instruction sheet said to use SAE
> 30 engine oil to lubricate the hub locking units, not grease. The

Dave, thanx I never knew what was recommended, I guess causeI've never gotten a
knew set of hubs. I have always found enough
spare parts at junkyards to rebuild mine. Although the supply is
getting offley scarse. I have always used a thin film of wheel bearing
grease and then working it in. I'll try what you say next time and
see how that works. You don't happen to have a spare plastic
and metal ring that holds the hub assemble gears together do ya
so I can have a working spare set ?


> W/ the Warn manual hub design, the handle simply moves a cam against a
> spring that engages or disengages the hub by applying or releasing pressure
> on the hub body. There is no direct connection between the handle itself
> and the hub body.

Not to be knit-picky Dave, but to be precise the cam is pressed
against a gear which is then in tension and compression with the
spring you speak of. Its the gear that the cam is pressing in, that
locks the hub assembly gears together with the axle. Like I said
not to be knit-picky and most of us knew this, but for a few that
don't or didn't they might have gotten the wrong impression thatthere isn't a
gear between the spring and cam. Please forgive me. :-)

> Partial hub engagement (which can
> be caused by excess/improper lubricant) is the most common cause of hub
> failure.

Absolutely correct. And let me tell ya, you know when you are
getting only partial contact. Cause you can feel the vibration through
the accelerator and floorboard when they keep popping off and on.
A person might think its an axle u-joint if they didn't know better.
This is what happened to me when the Haynes manual shows you
a picture of how to put in that gear that is in intension/compression
with the spring in BACKWARDS.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 13:57:31 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Salvage Shopping

Guys,
Yesturday I took the afternoon off and gave myself and the
" Brown Bull " some quality time at a couple of junkyards. Found
a couple of things. The main thing I was looking for was a fast idle
screw for my choke, after realizing I didn't have one after I rebuilt
the carb this weekend. And yes I found one off a 302 that was in
a '81. Also found some brand new looking mirrors on the '81 for
$5.00 a piece. And the last thing I found was a dome light cover
out of a Bronco II. Didn't know until yesterday that I could use
parts off a Bronco II. So I spent $11.00 and got a few extras in my
pockets. Got the mirrors on last night. Ended up having to hacksaw
the drivers side one off the bracket. Just thought I would share
that with ya. Yeah I know, like you really wanted to know that. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March
:-) :-))


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:00:50 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Sears auto service (was Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake booster

Having several friends who worked in Sears automotive departmens over the years,
I would never let Sears touch my vehicle. I do sometimes buy a Sears battery,
but I always do the installation myself. Better to make friends with a local
independent garage with a good mechanic - you may pay a couple of bucks more in
the beginnning, but in the long run, it will save you hundreds of dollars in
unneccessary repairs and damage. And Sears is not alone - all of the chain
operations are very bad.

Giddens, Scott wrote:

>
>
> It seems so strange to me that you have to pay someone that amount of money
> AND have them screw your truck up at the same time.
>
> I was watching the mechanics at Sears tear my brakes apart and "inspect
> them" when I bought some new tires and the guy drops my rear drum on the
> floor from about 5 feet. I stormed through the door (the one you are not
> supposed to go through for insurance reasons, yeah right!) and told the guy
> he had no business disassembling my brakes to just put on a set of tires. I
> told him that I do my brakes myself and never do anything to my truck I
> didn't ask them to do again.
>
> Scott
>



- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 12:02:47 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake booster

Giddens, Scott wrote:
>
> While you have the pads off you might as well pull the rotors also and have
> them turned or your front brakes will pulsate at high speeds and under heavy
> brake pressure.

That's what I have planned. I'm doing the rear first. I'm not sure
what's involved with pulling the front rotors. I'lll find out once I
start.



> I was watching the mechanics at Sears tear my brakes apart and "inspect
> them" when I bought some new tires and the guy drops my rear drum on the
> floor from about 5 feet.

I watched this moron let my calipers hang from the brake lines, beat on
my drum with a very large sledge hammer (that the head kept coming off
of), and leave the rear of my truck with both wheels off sitting perched
on a floor jack, no jack stands for two hours. They put my wheels back
on with the impact wrench. I went in and asked them to loosen one with
a wrench. They couldn't do it. So they went through and re-torqued them
all.

The manager looked like Fletch when he had the fake teeth in, pretending
to be a airplane mechanic. What a dork. I want be back there, and
neither will anyone I know.

Dana
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 13:16:33 -0700
From: "Brian Soderblom"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fw: Online Land Grabbers Poll

>from a local list -
>> >>
>> >> Hey everyone, seems they're at it again/always. Merrill has found a
>> >> poll on the following link. Right now, over 80% of the voters are in
>> >> favor of claiming more land in the name of "Wilderness Area." Let's
>> >> see if we can create an upset on their poll. It only takes a second
>> >> to click on "No" and press "Vote".
>> >>
>> >> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cnn.com/TECH/science/9902/09/utah.wilderness.enn/

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:03:00 EST
From: HrdKnkr aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 Running Rough

Check for a blown power valve in the carb (if it's carburated) Usually
happens if the motor backfired through the carb. easy fix!!
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:26:20 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid

My '86 F-150 302 EFI is making a groaning noise like older power
steering units used to do. The power steering fluid appears to be low
so I am ready to add some but am unsure what to add. The owner's manual
says use Motorcraft Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid. The Haynes
manual does not seem to specify what type of fluid to use. I have some
Dexron II automatic transmission fluid and some Castrol power steering
fluid. Are either of these acceptable or must I go get some Type F
Automatic Transmission fluid? Also, does the groaning indicate a need
for a rebuild or replace of the power steering unit?
Thanks.
Tom Gunby

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:50:15 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid

Tom Gunby wrote:

> My '86 F-150 302 EFI is making a groaning noise like older power
> steering units used to do. The power steering fluid appears to be low
> so I am ready to add some but am unsure what to add. The owner's manual

I myself use whatever I have on hand.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-)
:-))


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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:48:07 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid

you can use either transmission fluid or powersteering fluid any kind of
tranny fluid will do
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 17:44:23 -0500
From: "Christopher Maher"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dealer service, or lack thereof. (kinda long)

Hey guys, I thought I would share this little tale with you all. Let me
know if any of you have had similar encounters with your Ford dealer service
dept.
1989 F150 5.8 liter. 146,000 miles. Back in November I developed a rod
bearing knock. Rather than rebuild the engine, I chose to purchase a Ford
(Hesco) reman. unit. I told the parts guy to get me a 1991 version so I
would get the smoother idling camshaft. I install the engine over the
Thanksgiving weekend and after replacing a blown differential carrier with a
Auburn locker unit, I was on the road again. Truck ran great.
Now it's about 3,000 miles later and I notice white smoke coming from the
left tailpipe (dual exhaust) after a 20 mile trip to work. I don't notice
any coolant in the oil and I pressure test the cooling system and get no
leakage. However when I pressurize the system the white smoke gets a little
worse. Leakdown test shows less than 20 percent leakage, but the number 8
spark plug looks a little cleaner than the rest, indicating water getting in
the cylinder. Now this is my own diagnoses, mind you, and I am a
professional mechanic. My gut feeling without pulling anything apart is
that it's a very small leak that only occurs when the engine is fully warmed
up and the cooling system reaches full pressure. Then as the pressure
drops, the leak stops, pressure builds back up, leak starts again. Sounds
simple.
So I call the Ford dealer where I purchased the engine and they tell me to
bring it into service to be diagnosed so they can decide what to do (2 year,
24,000 mile warranty BTW). On the way to the dealer, I stop at a light and
the left pipe starts blowing the most incredible white cloud of smoke and
the engine starts hunting. I continue on to the dealer (about another 10
minutes) and when I get there it clears up and runs fine. So I tell them
they must get it hot or it won't smoke and they say ok they will check it
out.
This is 8am. At 12 noon, I call them and I am told they didn't get my truck
in yet but it should be soon. I inform them that I need my vehicle to go
home and I was expecting it back that day. They say ok it will be coming in
the shop shortly.
At 3 pm I leave work and get a ride to the dealer. When I arrive, my truck
is in fact in the shop and the service manager tells me to wait a few while
he talks to the tech working on it. I overhear him say something about the
trans modulator and I laugh to myself. The service manager comes to me and
I tell him I suspect the head gasket or a cracked head. He says they
couldn't get it to smoke at all and that he put dye in the cooling system.
He tells me to drive it a week and come in on Monday. Oh, yeah, he also
told me that he seems to remember a TSB for that year truck where they will
smoke white during the warmup strategy, due to the Thermactor pump running
during warmup. (another laugh). Now they were just looking at my truck
while I was waiting there and when I got in it, the temp was ice cold. How
could they duplicate the smoking condition if they didn't even let it get
hot?
What do you all think? I feel I am getting jerked around and they are just
trying to blow me off till the warranty expires. As far as I'm concerned,
putting dye in the coolant is used to test for an external leak, not an
internal one so minute that it gets burned off before it gets into the
crankcase. And the Thermactor TSB story was a good laugh, I'd like someone
to explain how that works.
I wouldn't be venting like this if I hadn't gone through similar shenanigans
before from Ford when it was a new truck. If I was a customer paying for a
repair, you could be damned sure they would find a problem so they could
bang me for a head gasket job. But now that it's a warranty deal, they will
jump through their asses to not find anything wrong.
The bottom line is, I really do love my truck and I just want another engine
to replace this defective one.
Any other victims of Ford's customer service tactics or Ford dealer techs
who have seen these games go on, let me know.
Thanks for the opportunity to vent my spleen.

Christopher T. Maher

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:50:05 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Torque Converter Lock Control

David Anderson wrote:

> I've learned allot of good things from this list and hopefully provided a
> few solutions. But, lately the coolest thing I've learned is the info
> about
> being able to control TC lockup on the earlier E4OD's. I've forgotten who
> started that, but thanks. At this point I have a new switch on the dash
> labeled "TC Lock". The computer program in my truck is one that locks the
> TC in every gear except 1st. For my mostly around town driving the first
> thing I did every time I got in was hit the OD OFF button otherwise I'd
> end
> up in fourth gear at about 35 mph turning around 900 rpm. Even for the I6
> that's not the best for responsiveness. Anyway, turning off lockup gets
> rid
> of the small lockup "bumps", overall runs the engine 300 - 400 rpm higher,
> frees me from hitting that OD button and just makes the truck more
> pleasant
> to drive. Plus when I go on the highway I can enable lockup and eeck out
> that extra MPG. Thanks again for the idea.
>
>
I really wish it was that easy for my '95 E4OD. Somebody, I forgot
who, posted the same solution for the later model E4OD's like mine using a 4
watt resistor to fool the computer so the "check engine" light will not come
on.

I printed out the posting but was a little confused about where the
resistor goes. Like if it is switched in line to the purple wire with the
yellow strip wire or if it is to ground.

If someone could confirm this diagram showing the terminals of a
single pole/double throw switch.

purple wire w/
yellow stripe
from computer------- [1] [C] [2]---vvvvv---14 ohm resistor
| to
ground
|
purple wire w/
yellow stripe
to transmission
(TC solenoid)

Scott
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:14:07 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid

I added some power steering fluid (it does not take much!) and actually ended
up having to siphon some back out. I noticed the fluid in the resevoir was
very dark, murky brown in color. Could old / wornout fluid contribute to the
groaning I was hearing or is that more likely the unit itself needing
replacement? The Haynes manual makes working on the power steering (gearbox
or pump) seem pretty complicated. Is this a DYI or must it be done by a shop?

Thanks.
Tom Gunby

ROlson1039 aol.com wrote:

> you can use either transmission fluid or powersteering fluid any kind of
> tranny fluid will do
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:05:11 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dealer service, or lack thereof. (kinda long)

Hey Chris,
I have an 89 e-250 300 6cyl, and had the same problem, but im a stubborn son
of a b.... so I wont take it to the dealer. Anyway my truck would blow white
smoke thru the tailpipe, no water in the oil, did a pressure test and a small
loss, but I was losing a little coolant also, and a bad odor of antifreeze
while inside the cab.turned out to be a cracked head. truck has 182k on it. so
I did it myself and my truck smokes no more. As far as the dealer goes, if
they give you any sh.. tell them you will file a complaint with ford motor co.
in michigan. They have a complaint dept there that straightens dealers right
out.They will give you a complaint # and contact the dealer.
Good Luck.

Joe /flashwax.com
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:10:35 EST
From: Bakend aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fw: Online Land Grabbers Poll

In a message dated 2/10/99 1:24:53 PM Mountain Standard Time,
brian soderblom.net writes:

> Right now, over 80% of the voters are in
> >> >> favor of claiming more land in the name of "Wilderness Area." Let's
> >> >> see if we can create an upset on their poll.
Down to 59% when I voted!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:29:15 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid

Tom Gunby wrote:
>
> My '86 F-150 302 EFI is making a groaning noise like older power
> steering units used to do. The power steering fluid appears to be low
> so I am ready to add some but am unsure what to add. The owner's manual
> says use Motorcraft Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid. The Haynes
> manual does not seem to specify what type of fluid to use. I have some
> Dexron II automatic transmission fluid and some Castrol power steering
> fluid. Are either of these acceptable or must I go get some Type F
> Automatic Transmission fluid? .....
>
Generally, the manufacturer knows what's best in there. So if the manual
says "Motorcraft Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid", then use
"Motorcraft Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid".


> Also, does the groaning indicate a need
> for a rebuild or replace of the power steering unit?
>
Could. Or just dirty, cruddy, contaminated fluid. Or just low. The
fluid's cheap. Start by changing that.
- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:27:34 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid

Hey Tom,
I dont know about you, but I drain and replace all my fluids,especially if
your vechicle has alot of miles or the fluid looks like crap. I do my rear
diff, power steering, trans,coolant, and of course the engine oil. I had a
vehicle make that noise one time and i replaced the fluid and added a fluid
conditioner. no more noise.you can also get that noise by not having enough
fluid in the resevoir. I just replaced the gear box on my 89 e-250. after 182k
on it the steering was so loose it was dangerous. I tighten up the gearbox but
it was shot. 160 bucks at autozone. Well, Good Luck.

Joe / flashwax.com
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:56:57 EST
From: IMATOOLMAN aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300 CI switch over to 351windsor how hard is it?

How hard is it to switch out my 6cyl for a v8 i already had my motor out twice
so that part I have licked,I just need to know what modifications I would have
to make to the mounts and if they have to be change also
Thanks Toolman
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:10:23 -0800
From: "Greg Lyon"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: off idle dead spot

Any thoughts on this problem-

I have a '93 F150 with a 4.9L six. The first motion of the accelerator
causes the rpm to dip before it climbs. I've changed plug wires, plugs, cap,
rotor, air filter and throttle position sensor. The problem is still there
but the motor seems strong, for a six, in every other way. It's hard to
drive smoothly when I don't put my foot in it hard enough to get past this
dead spot just off idle. Makes for lousy mileage too.

Thanks for any ideas, Greg

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 23:15:15 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: A.R.E Tonneau covers and truck caps

Dear Ford Truck Enthusiasts list members:

We have a new advertiser on our web site. Since the beginning,
our practice with web site advertisers has been to make a brief
announcement for 2 days (this is day 2 of 2). This is our only
exception to commercial advertising on our lists. Please show
your appreciation to them for helping to support the web site
and the lists by checking out their site:

"A.R.E. is proud to introduce a full line of fiberglass truck caps and
tonneau covers for Ford F150s, Super Duty's, and Ford Rangers to Ford
Truck Enthusiasts. Along with our award winning fiberglass tonneau
cover, we also have a complete product line of five different styles of
fiberglass truck caps. More information about A.R.E. and our products
can be found at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.4are.com."

We would like to you to let then know you heard about them via the
Ford Truck Enthusiasts group.

Now returning you to our regularly scheduled program...

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 22:44:31 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Brake booster

Might have those drums turned even if new. Several people have told me they
did this due to possible casting imperfections. I did both drums and rotors
when I overhauled mine. I think someone here said $6 a piece at Autozone.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Dana Bartholomew [SMTP:danabart wizard.com]
> Sent:Wednesday, February 10, 1999 12:52 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - Brake booster
>
> I'm doing the brakes on my 93 F350 tomorrow. Pads, shoes, new rear
> drums, new hardware all around and a new vacuum booster. I was
> wondering if anyone has replaced their booster and has any advice or
> little tricks to make the install more simple. It appears to be pretty
> straight forward but I know how those straight forward jobs can
> sometimes go.
>
> I went to Brake Depot for a free brake inspection. Their estimate was
> $580 without the booster. I went to Autozone picked up everything I
> needed including rear drums and a booster for $268. And I know it will
> be done right. I've never seen a more worthless pathetic group of
> so-called mechanics as I did that day at Brake Depot. It was scary.
> Even if their estimate had been $100 for everything I'd had driven away,
> quickly.
>
> That's all,
>
> Dana Bartholomew
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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 22:52:09 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid

Put a rebuilt one in my '85 after the original started spitting fluid and
it's whined ever since(did it myself). I figure as long as it turns easy, I
can tolerate the noise until it gives up. Been about 50,000 miles so far.
Can't recall the exact fluid it called for though.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Tom Gunby [SMTP:gunby mindspring.com]
> Sent:Wednesday, February 10, 1999 3:26 PM
> To:Ford Truck Discussion Group
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid
>
> My '86 F-150 302 EFI is making a groaning noise like older power
> steering units used to do. The power steering fluid appears to be low
> so I am ready to add some but am unsure what to add. The owner's manual
> says use Motorcraft Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid. The Haynes
> manual does not seem to specify what type of fluid to use. I have some
> Dexron II automatic transmission fluid and some Castrol power steering
> fluid. Are either of these acceptable or must I go get some Type F
> Automatic Transmission fluid? Also, does the groaning indicate a need
> for a rebuild or replace of the power steering unit?
> Thanks.
> Tom Gunby
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 22:56:46 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: off idle dead spot

Vacuum leak (classic symptom). EGR valve seat leaking will act like a big
mother vacuum leak.

At 19:10 10/02/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Any thoughts on this problem-
>
>I have a '93 F150 with a 4.9L six. The first motion of the accelerator
>causes the rpm to dip before it climbs. I've changed plug wires, plugs, cap,
>rotor, air filter and throttle position sensor. The problem is still there
>but the motor seems strong, for a six, in every other way. It's hard to
>drive smoothly when I don't put my foot in it hard enough to get past this
>dead spot just off idle. Makes for lousy mileage too.
>
>Thanks for any ideas, Greg
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 23:02:39 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:

Too much EGR perhaps. That will make it ping. I am assuming you have
checked all of the obvious (timing, etc.) so I am looking for the obscure.


At 10:47 09/01/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Guys, I have a 1997 F250 HD. 351 4X4 Automatic...I am having a pinging
>problem..Not gas problem. Using all types still pings. Any Ideas?
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 23:01:04 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Fluid

Replacing the pump is DIY. That is what is moaning and groaning, most
likely. You don't need to mess with the gearbox unless it is leaking really
badly. Try replacing fluid on the PS pump. If the pump is bad, you won't
hurt it. If clean fluid makes it happy, run it a while longer. If not....


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