80-96-list-digest Wednesday, February 10 1999 Volume 03 : Number 037



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Code Reader
RE: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start - UPDATE
Re: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start - UPDATE
Re: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start - UPDATE
FTE 80-96 - Re:Stumbling 1989 4.9L FI
Re: FTE 80-96 - Code Reader
Re: FTE 80-96 - Code Reader
FTE 80-96 - RE: What's wrong with people....
FTE 80-96 - Re: What is wrong with people
FTE 80-96 - Re: What is wrong with people
FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?
RE: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?
RE: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: What is wrong with people
FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal
FTE 80-96 - Identify this
Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal
RE: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal
RE: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal
FTE 80-96 - Code 41.. HEGO?
FTE 80-96 - Van for towing
Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal
Re: FTE 80-96 - Code 41.. HEGO?

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Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 07:49:49 -0500
From: Susan Gunby
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Code Reader

I have seen several posts here about "readers" that are available to
decode the output by the vehicle's electronic engine control module. Do
any of these display the output directly as the final codes or is is
necessary to "count pulses / count hand sweeps" to get the final codes?
Thanks.
Tom Gunby
'86 F-150 302 EFI

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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 07:59:18 -0500
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start - UPDATE

Ok, I had the trucks electrical system checked and everything was normal.
The only problem was a bad battery which I had replaced and it started right
up. The reason I'm unsure that it was just a bad battery is because the
last battery I had only lasted about a year also. Several of you guys have
said to check the voltage regulator but mine is in the alternator. The
alternator checked out fine but should I have it checked again. I hate to
throw money at a problem that may or may not exist but I don't want this to
happen again. My battery cables and connections all seem ok. Thanks, Mike

>
> >I have a problem with my 86 f150, I6. Yesterday morning it started fine
but
> >then later in the day when I went to start it, it was dead. I had to get
a
> >jump start. Well every time I turn on any of the lights it dies. It won't
> >restart unless it is jumped. The battery reads at full charge on the
meter.
> >What could be causing this problem? My battery is only a year old. The
> >truck is at the mechanic right now waiting to be diagnosed. Any help
would
> >be appreciated. Thanks a lot.
>
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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 09:20:39 EST
From: Hilofixer aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start - UPDATE

one thing that you can do that doesnt take much mechanical skill is to check
that the coonections on your battery cables are tight and clean.. free of oil,
rust and other assorted crud that has a tendency of building up on motors.. i
would also give a general look see and tug on all the visible wiring harness
connections and see if i see any wires that are `showing dry rot to the
insulation or are otherwise exposed... sometimes the smallest part of exposed
wires can cause this kind of problem
I would also have an aftermarket ammeter installed so i could monitor the
charging system, to make sure the alternator/ regulator doesnt fade out under
load or after the truck runs a while.. i have a 1989 F 250 and the battery has
lasted three years under less than favorable conditions as the truck is used
for work and is left with the lights on and with emergency lights running
with the motor off, plus i use a power invertor from time to time
Hope that helps ya
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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 10:33:44 -0500
From: "Doug McGuinn"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start - UPDATE

What a coincidence. I downloaded your post just minutes before I planned to
go outside and install a new battery in my F-150. I'm hoping the probem is
just a bad battery -- the old battery was only 7 months old. If the new
battery won't charge up, then it's back to the drawing board. Surely, 60
month batteries are supposed to last longer than 7 months.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Johnson
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 8:04 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start - UPDATE


>Ok, I had the trucks electrical system checked and everything was normal.
>The only problem was a bad battery which I had replaced and it started
right
>up. The reason I'm unsure that it was just a bad battery is because the
>last battery I had only lasted about a year also. Several of you guys have
>said to check the voltage regulator but mine is in the alternator. The
>alternator checked out fine but should I have it checked again. I hate to
>throw money at a problem that may or may not exist but I don't want this to
>happen again. My battery cables and connections all seem ok. Thanks, Mike
>
>>
>> >I have a problem with my 86 f150, I6. Yesterday morning it started fine
>but
>> >then later in the day when I went to start it, it was dead. I had to get
>a
>> >jump start. Well every time I turn on any of the lights it dies. It
won't
>> >restart unless it is jumped. The battery reads at full charge on the
>meter.
>> >What could be causing this problem? My battery is only a year old. The
>> >truck is at the mechanic right now waiting to be diagnosed. Any help
>would
>> >be appreciated. Thanks a lot.
>>
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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 10:03:44 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:Stumbling 1989 4.9L FI

My '90 4.9L had your symptoms. First step is to get rid of the EGR problems
with cleaning, etc. In mine, I got the EGR system working but ended up
plugging the EGR control vacuum hose because it runs a little better with no
EGR. (Every time I check codes I just expect a 33) Next re-check the plug
wires. A lot of discussion has gone down on this list on the merits of high
quality (low resistance) wires routed away from each other and other wiring.
The one thing that made a big difference that I can't explain was testing
the MAP sensor. I have no way of testing this frequency varying device so I
just unplugged it and drove around a little. It ran awful. After
reconnecting it and letting the engine settle down again, the low throttle
stumble and off-idle hesitation seemed to be improved.
David Anderson

>I have a 1989 F150 SWB with a fuel injected 4.9L and 5 speed manual.
The truck stumbles when it is cold up to about 1800 rpm. When it is
warm, it does not stumble, but the running is noticeably smoother and
more powerful above that range. Engine vacuum is 20 inches at idle and
decreases at higher rpm. A compression test showed ~150 psi of
compression for each cylinder, all within 5 psi.

The only computer code I get is an intermittent code 31 or 32 for 'check
EGR system'.


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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 09:25:28 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Code Reader

What kind of reader you get really depends on how much you want to spend. I
have one the just flashes and beeps, requiring you to count the
flashes/beeps. There are more expensive ones ($100+) that will print the
actual code on the screen. Depending on how much EFI work you are planning
on doing it might be worth it to get the better one.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Susan Gunby
To: Ford Truck Discussion Group
Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 12:54 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Code Reader


>I have seen several posts here about "readers" that are available to
>decode the output by the vehicle's electronic engine control module. Do
>any of these display the output directly as the final codes or is is
>necessary to "count pulses / count hand sweeps" to get the final codes?
>Thanks.
>Tom Gunby
>'86 F-150 302 EFI
>
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>

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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 12:24:20 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Code Reader

Tom,
About the only engine scanner/analyzer out there that you DON'T have to count
the blinks with is about $200 + $45-$50 per module for the different
manufacturers. It is made by SunPro and you can get it at PepBoys and other
places like that.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside Page
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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 11:41:47 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: What's wrong with people....

Good grief!!! Just look at who is at the TOP of the US Govt.....heck even
go down 6-10 places.
Supposedly the people elect them....I SURE DIDN'T!!!!

Term limits, BIG time campaign reform, FREE T.V. for candidates....MAYBE we
could change things???

Now Ford content: My 92 F-150 is A-OK after the last thing I did was new
motorcraft wires.
My Dads 87 Ranger is finicky to start...turn it over several times...when
it starts, it seems flooded (clears up quickly)
A KOEO code of 33....Can EGR do this symptom ?????

Thanks!

David H.
dharmier gte.net
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Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 10:52:27 PST
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: What is wrong with people

I understand... It just pisses me off to think that people can do stuff
like this and not think twice about it. Enough about that though. What
type of lube for the manual hubs works good in really cold weather?
There is a couple gear shops here in town (first time I ever been in
one, jaw to the floor....) but they say that the heavy duty ford grease
is what they use. I had to unlock the hubs to tow the truck and they
BARELY turned, almost to the point I thought I was going to break the
plastic knobs.

THanks,
Casey

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 10:59:34 PST
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: What is wrong with people

It probably isn't as bad as where you are, but the political thing kills
me to. I get pretty pissed off arguing about politics. Even reading
the paper gets me annoyed as to what AK's gov is doing/trying to do and
then you look at the presidential side of the issue... on and on... Lets
not go there.... Lets get back to trucks (even though mine is a prob
most of the time) We could all go on for hours about politics and that
would take away from the list.

Thanks,
Casey

>>>
Sorry to ramble, but it kills me that we think it is OK for our elected
officials to get away with breaking laws but it is not OK when we are
the
one that gets victimized. No elected official is so important that we
can't
replace them and go on.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 13:01:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Christopher Funk
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?

When I am in the mountains (snow and below freezing temperatures), if I
put on my parking brake, and leave the truck (94 f150 4wd) for most of the
day (while I snowboard) when I try to leave, the right rear wheel will not
turn (I do release the parking brake lever in the cab). I am in 4wd so,
I end up just dragging the rear end around (the left rear wheel just
spins). I have found that some combination of driving forward and
backward, wiggling the parking brake cable, and simply waiting will free
the right rear wheel.I would guess that something is getting frozen so that
the parking brake is not properly releasing. Has anyone experienced
something like this
and what is the best solution (if I do not engage the parking brake, I
have no problem, but I think I should be able to engage the parking brake
even in snowy below freezing conditions).

Thanks in advance for any replies.
Andrew
- ----------------------------------------------------------

Andrew Funk
Department of Physics
University of Oregon
Eugene, OR 97403

(541) 346-4726 lab

afunk darkwing.uoregon.edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~afunk

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Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 15:24:03 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?

>the parking brake is not properly releasing. Has anyone experienced
>something like this
>and what is the best solution (if I do not engage the parking brake, I
>have no problem, but I think I should be able to engage the parking brake
>even in snowy below freezing conditions).
>
I've heard of this happening before, seems to be a trait with the older
drum brakes. First thing is that obviously you're getting snow/water in
the drum and its freezing while you're gone. One suggestion I've seen is to
ride the brakes lightly (heat em up) to evaporate any of the stuff in the
drum.

One thing to check might be the access holes in the back of the drum, there
was a plug over the access hole to the brake adjusters from the factory,
this would be a good place for water or snow to get into ... just look and
see if there's anything obvious, the HELP section of your local autoparts
stores ...

Hope that helps

wish
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Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 13:28:42 -0800
From: Paul Laughlin
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?

Andrew Christopher Funk wrote:
>
> When I am in the mountains (snow and below freezing temperatures), if I
> put on my parking brake, and leave the truck (94 f150 4wd) for most of the
> day (while I snowboard) when I try to leave, the right rear wheel will not
> turn (I do release the parking brake lever in the cab).

You are lucky. A lot of the time frozen parking brakes are a lot more
difficult to break loose. They require thawing. Either by parking in a
heated garage or use of applied heat.
Most people, that drive in conditions that put water or slush on the
parking brake cables, learn that setting parking brakes in freezing
weather is a no-no. If it is a manual transmission, park it in first or
reverse gear. If it is an automatic, Park will hold it. That parking
brake (with its cable operation) can leave you afoot.
Paul in Portland OR
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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 14:33:38 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?

Check and make sure there is a little rubber plug in the adjustment hole in
the rear brake drums. This would allow water to splash up into the drum when
you go through standing water. Water that gets into the drum on the sides
will evaporate from the heat of the drum but not through the little slot
used to adjust the brakes.

If you can let the truck sit for a little while before you engage it.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Andrew Christopher Funk [SMTP:afunk darkwing.uoregon.edu]
> Sent:Tuesday, February 09, 1999 2:01 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?
>
> When I am in the mountains (snow and below freezing temperatures), if I
> put on my parking brake, and leave the truck (94 f150 4wd) for most of the
> day (while I snowboard) when I try to leave, the right rear wheel will not
> turn (I do release the parking brake lever in the cab). I am in 4wd so,
> I end up just dragging the rear end around (the left rear wheel just
> spins). I have found that some combination of driving forward and
> backward, wiggling the parking brake cable, and simply waiting will free
> the right rear wheel.I would guess that something is getting frozen so
> that
> the parking brake is not properly releasing. Has anyone experienced
> something like this
> and what is the best solution (if I do not engage the parking brake, I
> have no problem, but I think I should be able to engage the parking brake
> even in snowy below freezing conditions).
>
> Thanks in advance for any replies.
> Andrew
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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 14:45:53 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?

If it is the cable that is freezing you can spray silicone lube into the
cables. This will water proof them.

Most of the time it is when you park in deep snow the hot brakes melt the
snow and it migrates into the bottom of the drum and freezes again. Try
parking out of the deep snow or drive the truck back and forth before you
park it to clear away the snow around the wheels. Obviously the hot brakes
are dry when you stop, something is getting in after they cool off.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Paul Laughlin [SMTP:plaugh spiritone.com]
> Sent:Tuesday, February 09, 1999 2:29 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - Parking brake freezing?
>
> Andrew Christopher Funk wrote:
> >
> > When I am in the mountains (snow and below freezing temperatures), if I
> > put on my parking brake, and leave the truck (94 f150 4wd) for most of
> the
> > day (while I snowboard) when I try to leave, the right rear wheel will
> not
> > turn (I do release the parking brake lever in the cab).
>
> You are lucky. A lot of the time frozen parking brakes are a lot more
> difficult to break loose. They require thawing. Either by parking in a
> heated garage or use of applied heat.
> Most people, that drive in conditions that put water or slush on the
> parking brake cables, learn that setting parking brakes in freezing
> weather is a no-no. If it is a manual transmission, park it in first or
> reverse gear. If it is an automatic, Park will hold it. That parking
> brake (with its cable operation) can leave you afoot.
> Paul in Portland OR
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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 15:12:39 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: What is wrong with people

I know what you mean, it is very tough to turn them in the sub-zero weather
here in Colorado also. I did not think it was worth tearing the hubs apart
to use a lighter grease though. That would risk them drying out and burning
up. I would suggest to just use less grease and change it frequently. It is
tough but I always manage to engage them in cold weather, although it seems
like an eternity and my fingers are what hurts the most. I might suggest
putting on automatic hubs but they have their own little problems that may
be worse.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Casey Vandor [SMTP:cvandor hotmail.com]
> Sent:Tuesday, February 09, 1999 11:52 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - Re: What is wrong with people
>
> I understand... It just pisses me off to think that people can do stuff
> like this and not think twice about it. Enough about that though. What
> type of lube for the manual hubs works good in really cold weather?
> There is a couple gear shops here in town (first time I ever been in
> one, jaw to the floor....) but they say that the heavy duty ford grease
> is what they use. I had to unlock the hubs to tow the truck and they
> BARELY turned, almost to the point I thought I was going to break the
> plastic knobs.
>
> THanks,
> Casey
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 15:07:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Brent McNabb
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal

First of all, I'd like to thank all who responded to my query about
the rear taillights, it turned out to be I had broke the ground wire.
I do have another problem now, and that is with the oxygen sensor.
The engine is a stock 302, the sensor is mounted in the passenger side
exhaust manifold, and is quite difficult to get to. I can get a
sensor socket on the sensor, but cannot find the room to turn the
ratchet enough to break it loose. Right now I'm soaking it in
penetrant, and while I'm waiting, I was wondering how other people got
the sensor out... Right now it looks like I'm going to have to use a
wrench.





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 18:09:17 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Identify this

This is a resend as I had my computer crash and eat all my offline mail
downloads.
Thanks again for any help you can give.
Wayne

Gang,
Here we go again. I have been having trouble identifying the trans. I have in
my truck. The transmission code on the door sticker is "U". The only number
that I have been able to find or see on my trans. is "RF-F4ZP-7006-AA". That
number is located on the drivers side of the tranny just behind the shift
linkage. I also have the stalk mounted OD off switch.
The VIN # is 1FTEX15N1RKA19590 if that helps. I have tried to go up to the
local for dealer and have them run the OASIS on it, but of course, everytime I
go up there the system is supposedly down. You can either post the answer or
contact me off list.
Thanks,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside Page
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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 18:30:39 -0500 (EST)
From: Speed Racer
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal

Use the BLUE WRENCH!!!!! (torch it)

Trenton Munsell
Oakland University-- Mechanical Engineering
1998-99 SAE President
1998-99 FSAE Team Leader
Brakes are a sign of weakness.....
..... When in doubt-- GAS IT!!!!!

On Tue, 9 Feb 1999, Brent McNabb wrote:

> First of all, I'd like to thank all who responded to my query about
> the rear taillights, it turned out to be I had broke the ground wire.
> I do have another problem now, and that is with the oxygen sensor.
> The engine is a stock 302, the sensor is mounted in the passenger side
> exhaust manifold, and is quite difficult to get to. I can get a
> sensor socket on the sensor, but cannot find the room to turn the
> ratchet enough to break it loose. Right now I'm soaking it in
> penetrant, and while I'm waiting, I was wondering how other people got
> the sensor out... Right now it looks like I'm going to have to use a
> wrench.
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> >
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 16:43:01 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal

Drill hole through side
Insert punch through hole
Rotate
Drill another hole
Insert punch again
Rotate
Repeat until the first hole is accessible.

Scott : )

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Brent McNabb [SMTP:vitesse_7 yahoo.com]
> Sent:Tuesday, February 09, 1999 4:07 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal
>
> First of all, I'd like to thank all who responded to my query about
> the rear taillights, it turned out to be I had broke the ground wire.
> I do have another problem now, and that is with the oxygen sensor.
> The engine is a stock 302, the sensor is mounted in the passenger side
> exhaust manifold, and is quite difficult to get to. I can get a
> sensor socket on the sensor, but cannot find the room to turn the
> ratchet enough to break it loose. Right now I'm soaking it in
> penetrant, and while I'm waiting, I was wondering how other people got
> the sensor out... Right now it looks like I'm going to have to use a
> wrench.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 15:57:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Brent McNabb
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal

- ---"Giddens, Scott" wrote:
>
> Drill hole through side
> Insert punch through hole
> Rotate
> Drill another hole
> Insert punch again
> Rotate
> Repeat until the first hole is accessible.

I assume you mean through the fenderwell plastic? That is really the
only obstacle in the way of a long ratchet handle. That and the air
pump rubber hose, but I can't seem to dislodge the hose from the metal
conduit along the passenger side cylinder bank.
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 20:56:53 EST
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Code 41.. HEGO?

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone can help me out on this problem. I've
gotten a "check engine" light and the code came up as #41, HEGO not switching.
Can anyone explain this to me? What does an HEGO do, where is it, and what's
not switching?

Thanks,

Joe
Lost in Jersey
1992 Nite 5.0/AOD 4x4
http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1992_f150_nite.html
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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 21:37:08 -0600
From: "Paul and Mary Thicke"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Van for towing

I have a 1991 E150 halfback conversion van that I use to tow a 28' Jayco
weighing about 6500. I have a 302 auto with the 355 axle. It gets me
around ok but I try to anticipate the hills and get a run. I have taken it
from WI. to Charlotte through the mountains etc. I would like to have the
373 axle and 351 engine. I think this would be excellent. I have a good
351 carburetor engine, but don't know if it could be converted to fuel
injection. I have found that the Van doesn't handle quite as good as my
son's 1992 F150.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 23:18:38 EST
From: Hilofixer aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '86 Oxygen Sensor Removal

when i removed mine i let the truck idle til the pipe was real hot and i
sprayed it with penetratin oil it works easier to remove it hot
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 23:06:20 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Code 41.. HEGO?

HEGO stands for Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen, more commonly known as the Oxygen
sensor. What it does is to measure the amount of O2 in the exhaust stream
which will tell the EEC whether the engine is running lean or rich so it can
adjust accordingly. It looks sort of like a spark plug screwed into the
exhaust pipe just behind the manifold. They do wear out over time so
perhaps your needs replacing, I would also check the wiring going to it to
make sure it has not been damaged or burnt.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----....


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