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80-96-list-digest Monday, February 8 1999 Volume 03 : Number 035 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: FTE 80-96 - Adjusting Brakes FTE 80-96 - Compression RE: FTE 80-96 - van for towing FTE 80-96 - Stumbling 1989 4.9L FI FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates Re: FTE 80-96 - Loose steering wheel column Re: FTE 80-96 - Model years for dash mounted OD switch Re: FTE 80-96 - Stumbling 1989 4.9L FI FTE 80-96 - Identify this ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 08:46:12 -0500 From: "Serian" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Adjusting Brakes >The Haynes manual indicates you adjust the brakes by >"backing up and applying the brakes" several times. The >man at AutoZone indicated we should use the brake >adjustment tool to adjust the star wheel until the pads rub the >drum then "back off a little". Seems this would allow the >self-adjusters to complete their function a little quicker by not >having to adjust the shoes out from the "full-in" position but >it also seems a little risky if I don't "back off" enough and the >new pads are left too close to the drums to begin with. >What's the correct way to do this? I don't think there really is a specific "correct" procedure, as long as what you do to get them adjusted gives you good safe braking. The way I do it is to adjust the shoes via the starwheel thing with the drum OFF. When I can slide the drum on and into the proper installed position with just a *little bit* of scrape, then I bolt the tire and rim back on, drive a bit both forward and reverse with a lot of brake use. Never had a problem with this, and always got good braking results. The reason for this procedure is that adjusting the starwheel thing with everything installed is a major pain in the arse. The little bit of scrape but still able to get the drum on ensures minimal auto-adjust, and besides, the braking surface on new shoes is NEVER the same shape as the inside of yer drums, so its going to wear a bit to match surfaces anyway. Hope this helps ... == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 11:43:57 -0800 From: William Zellmann Subject: FTE 80-96 - Compression Second request: Does anyone know the compression ratio of an '82 300 I6? I can't seem to find it in the manual. Thanks. Bill Zellmann Searcy, Arkansas (No, I didn't vote for him!) '82 F100 "You're only young once, but you can stay immature forever!" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 12:53:32 -0500 From: "Dave Pashley" Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - van for towing - -----Original Message----- From:owner-80-96-list [mailto:owner-80-96-list Sent:Friday, February 05, 1999 11:03 PM To:80-96-list Subject:FTE 80-96 - van for towing I currently tow a 34 foot wilderness travel trailer which ways about 7400 lbs. I use a F-250 power stroke with 4:11 gears. Previously I towed the same rig with a GMC 6.2 diesel pickup with 3:46 gears and it was a bear! Powerstroke walks it along easily. I would suggest largest V-8 or V-10 available and 4:11 gears. Any trailer option packages are worth it such as prewired light and brake harness and factory trailering mirrors and extra cooling for transmission. I use Amsoil synthetic fluid in my E4OD and have had no problems with it. (I also tow a 10,000 lb. boat).I have a pull-rite swing hitch on my rig and it is wonderful!! As my trailer is high side and square (I.E. no rounded corner s on the sides) it is plagued by cross-winds and semi trailer wash. With the pull-rite hitch this all went away and trailering is a lot more fun and relaxing. Does anyone have any information on using a Ford conversion van for towing a travel trailer. What size engine and what gear ratio seem to work. I have a trailer which has a gross weight of 7000 pounds and I would like enough power to drive comfortably. I would like any information from someone who currently or in the past has had some experience with this, high top or low top, which works better??? Thanks in advance, Dan == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 13:41:27 -0600 From: Kimuel Hill Subject: FTE 80-96 - Stumbling 1989 4.9L FI I am now forced to stop lurking and ask for help. I have a 1989 F150 SWB with a fuel injected 4.9L and 5 speed manual. The truck stumbles when it is cold up to about 1800 rpm. When it is warm, it does not stumble, but the running is noticably smoother and more powerful above that range. Engine vacuum is 20 inches at idle and decreases at higher rpm. A compression test showed ~150 psi of compression for each cylinder, all within 5 psi. The only computer code I get is an intermittent code 31 or 32 for 'check EGR system'. I performed a 'wiggle test' for the EGR position sensor and could break the connection by just wiggling the connector. I have checked the coolant temperature thermistor, MAP, EPV and throttle position sensors. I also broke down and replaced the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. Any ideas, anyone??? I am just about at my wit's end and may actually have to resort to a professional. Any and all advice will be considered. Thanks!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 15:44:47 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates 1. 13 trucks added to pictorial section. 2. Several links sections updated. 3. Speaker installation for 1999 F150s article added to tech article section. 4. RSAC tags updated in the BBS, classifieds and chat sections. If you have children and content control in your web browser, this will allow them to visit any portion of the site except for chat which has a tag for mild slang/adult language. I've seen enough of this in the chat that I felt it was best to re-rate it. 5. Some portions of the BBS are faster (and some are still just as slow and we're still working on it). 6. Server can now handle up to 20 simultanious users (chat can handle even more, about 500). Browsing the site should be faster during peak times. We'll need a full T1 connection within 6 months. We've had 19% compounded monthly growth since we started and we're projecting about 500,000 monthly visitors within 7 months. Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 18:46:12 EST From: ACMERCG Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Loose steering wheel column In a message dated 2/5/99 10:50:50 PM Pacific Standard Time, WoodStck45 Joe (Lost in New Jersey) If you sit in the drivers seat and have the steering wheel in the position where the front wheels are straight and the Ford emblem is readable from left to right, you can move the steering wheel up and down diaganolly to the left (kinda like if the top of the wheel represented north, and the bottom south, the left west, and the right east) in other words you can move it from where its suppposed to be, North West, and back where it is suppossed to be. I am fairly well mechanically inclined (in fact i just got done helping my friend put a new rear main and tranny in his 88 aerostar mini-van) so i could rebuild it myself. You are probably right it being the bearings, but it feels like the hole is wallered out that the piece that the holds the steering wheel from tiliting up and down is bad. Oh well, i'l figure it out i hope Thanks Paul >> Before you Take it apart Paul, just check the mounting points for the column under the dash, and make sure they are tight. Soounds like the bearings. The reason you feel that they have wallered out a hole is because the bearings actually locate the steering shaft itself. The bearings are out and the steering shaft has much more room to move around in now. I suggest that you fix it as soon as possible because toy can damage the eletronics for the cruise and horn, like I did. If you do damage the contacts and wires, you will have to buy a new steering wheel, because you buy them as an assembly, not individual parts. I am goint ot look for the parts list I used and post it. You can also get an exploded view from Ford, which will give you a better idea of what you are getting yourself into. Joe Lost in Jersey == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 19:17:52 EST From: Hitman6136 Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Model years for dash mounted OD switch 1991 was the only year the switch was dash mounted == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 16:37:59 -0800 From: Bob Kennedy Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Stumbling 1989 4.9L FI If the 31 and 32 codes come up consistently, either the EGR and/or the EVP Sensor is giving the old computer a faulty reading until engine warm up.Some folks remove the EGR assembly and clean it in a O2 sensor-safe cleaner. Hope this helps, Bob Kimuel Hill wrote: > I am now forced to stop lurking and ask for help. > > I have a 1989 F150 SWB with a fuel injected 4.9L and 5 speed manual. > The truck stumbles when it is cold up to about 1800 rpm. When it is > warm, it does not stumble, but the running is noticably smoother and > more powerful above that range. Engine vacuum is 20 inches at idle and > decreases at higher rpm. A compression test showed ~150 psi of > compression for each cylinder, all within 5 psi. > > The only computer code I get is an intermittent code 31 or 32 for 'check > EGR system'. I performed a 'wiggle test' for the EGR position sensor and > could break the connection by just wiggling the connector. I have > checked the coolant temperature thermistor, MAP, EPV and throttle > position sensors. I also broke down and replaced the plugs, plug wires, > distributor cap and rotor. > > Any ideas, anyone??? I am just about at my wit's end and may actually > have to resort to a professional. Any and all advice will be > considered. > > Thanks!!! > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 21:53:24 EST From: FLR150 Subject: FTE 80-96 - Identify this Gang, Here we go again. I have been having trouble identifying the trans. I have in my truck. The transmission code on the door sticker is "U". The only number that I have been able to find or see on my trans. is "RF-F4ZP-7006-AA". That number is located on the drivers side of the tranny just behind the shift linkage. I also have the stalk mounted OD off switch. The VIN # is 1FTEX15N1RKA19590 if that helps. I have tried to go up to the local for dealer and have them run the OASIS on it, but of course, everytime I go up there the system is supposedly down. You can either post the answer or contact me off list. Thanks, Wayne Foy '94 Flareside Supercab "Hazardous Material" Wayne's Flareside Page .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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