80-96-list-digest Saturday, February 6 1999 Volume 03 : Number 033



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Vacuum Diagrams
FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start
300-6 problems (was Re: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum Diagrams
Re: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start
FTE 80-96 - Re:Choking to death ?
Re: 300-6 problems (was Re: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum Diagrams
FTE 80-96 - Oil pressure woes...
Re: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
FTE 80-96 - distributor parts
FTE 80-96 - Dual Fuel Tank Problem
FTE 80-96 - RE:'96 300 I6 ticking valve lifters??
RE: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start
FTE 80-96 - Re: Dual Fuel Tank Problem
FTE 80-96 - Fuel, temp, oil guages going up and down
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel, temp, oil guages going up and down
Re: FTE 80-96 - 7.3L Diesel
Re: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Spring nominations
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dual Fuel Tank Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel, temp, oil guages going up and down
RE: FTE 80-96 - Fuel, temp, oil gauges going up and down
Re: FTE 80-96 - E4OD, Need a Transmission Shop [WA State]
FTE 80-96 - 96 XL 300 I6 ticking; Should I change the gearing?
Re: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel, temp, oil guages going up and down
FTE 80-96 - van for towing
Re: FTE 80-96 - van for towing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Traction bar pics, Attn: Dana, Sam
FTE 80-96 - Loose steering wheel column

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 07:38:07 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum Diagrams

Gang(s),
I am in need of a vacuum diagram for my 300 I-6 1 barrel.
Last night I goes to replace the fuel line cause its leaking
around the fitting at the fuel pump. I take it off , well then I
notice my carb is loose on the plate it attaches too. Therefore,
these screws are from underneath so you have to take the carb
off to get to them. Well, as I was taking the carb off I broke a
couple of the 1/8" vacuum lines that are bundled up. These are
the ones that goes to the front vacuumtree near the thermostat.
They have really gotten brittle over time. Anyways, so there is
one that I didn't brake off but dont know where it goes. I think I
can figure out the ones that I broke. Anyways, after I did all the
damage I could do last night, I see that next weeks project will
be replacing the oilpan gasket. :-( You guys need to keep up
with my bronco, cause that will be next week's question. :-)
Man, just once I would like to do a simple job and not have
this domino effect of problems. :-( Well, on the bright side
I havn't had to work on my engine in a few months and my
mustang runs solid. :-) Vacumm diagrams or help from
you guys.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March
:-) :-))


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 08:30:55 -0500
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start

I have a problem with my 86 f150, I6. Yesterday morning it started fine but
then later in the day when I went to start it, it was dead. I had to get a
jump start. Well every time I turn on any of the lights it dies. It won't
restart unless it is jumped. The battery reads at full charge on the meter.
What could be causing this problem? My battery is only a year old. The truck
is at the mechanic right now waiting to be diagnosed. Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks a lot.

Mike
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 08:45:50 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: 300-6 problems (was Re: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum Diagrams

Unless your car has been repainted, there should be a diagram under the hood
for many of the lines, if not all. I have seen a number of comments about
difficulties with the 300 straight 6. Frankly, that engine is one of the
oldest in Ford's line and one of the most reliable. The only problems I have
had with mine ('83 F-250) were bad intake manifold gasket and leaking valve
cover gasket. Which brings me to the comment about Rick's oil pan gasket: I
would tighten the bolts on the oil pan, and then get a handful of those
little special washers to put under the heads of the valve cover gasket -
that is usually where the 300 6 usually leaks. And the oil runs down and
winds up on the oil pan, leading you to think the oil pan gasket is the
culprit.

Mike

Rick Wojciechowski wrote:

> Gang(s),
> I am in need of a vacuum diagram for my 300 I-6 1 barrel.
> Last night I goes to replace the fuel line cause its leaking
> around the fitting at the fuel pump. I take it off , well then I
> notice my carb is loose on the plate it attaches too. Therefore,
> these screws are from underneath so you have to take the carb
> off to get to them. Well, as I was taking the carb off I broke a
> couple of the 1/8" vacuum lines that are bundled up. These are
> the ones that goes to the front vacuumtree near the thermostat.
> They have really gotten brittle over time. Anyways, so there is
> one that I didn't brake off but dont know where it goes. I think I
> can figure out the ones that I broke. Anyways, after I did all the
> damage I could do last night, I see that next weeks project will
> be replacing the oilpan gasket. :-( You guys need to keep up
> with my bronco, cause that will be next week's question. :-)
> Man, just once I would like to do a simple job and not have
> this domino effect of problems. :-( Well, on the bright side
> I havn't had to work on my engine in a few months and my
> mustang runs solid. :-) Vacumm diagrams or help from
> you guys.
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Rick Wojo
> '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
> '92 Mstng 5.0L
> '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March
> :-) :-))
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 08:02:09 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start

Mike Johnson wrote:

> I have a problem with my 86 f150, I6. Yesterday morning it started fine but
> then later in the day when I went to start it, it was dead. I had to get a
> jump start. Well every time I turn on any of the lights it dies. It won't
> restart unless it is jumped. The battery reads at full charge on the meter.
> What could be causing this problem? My battery is only a year old. The truck
> is at the mechanic right now waiting to be diagnosed. Any help would be
> appreciated. Thanks a lot.

Mike,
I would bet your grandmother's black dress shoes its your voltage
regulator. Now the voltage regulator is either mounted to the passenger
side fenderwell by the battery or your may be internal to the alternator.
Lets hope its the fender mounted one. It costs about $8.00-$11.00 and
takes 5 minutes to install. Anyways these are my initial thoughts cause
I had the same problem of the Bronco discharging the battery in a
matter of a couple hours. So's I go to diagnose it, and tear my truck
up checking all the wires. Well, I then got back to basics an sure enough
the voltage regultor was stuck open letting out a continuous charge.


- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 05:53:12 -0800 (PST)
From: rokkinhorse webtv.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:Choking to death ?

Dennis, I'm fighting this now on a 460. Try disconnecting the EGR
first.Just plug the line that goes to it after disconnecting it,and
drive it. I suspect my thermactoer might be bad,but finding an emissions
map or diagram for this truck is proving to be real frustrating. My
engine ran better after doing this,but it still isn't totally right.
Anybody know where I can find an emissions only book that might cover a
non-catalyst 85 with California emissions?? Any help greatly
appreciated!!

Randy Goolsby 94 Bronco
EB 351W 85 F-250 4x4 460

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 08:11:55 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: 300-6 problems (was Re: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum Diagrams

Mike Sloane wrote:

> Unless your car has been repainted, there should be a diagram under the hood

You must be talking where they give you the timing and idle specs.Thanx Mike,
I'll look when I get home.


> Frankly, that engine is one of the
> oldest in Ford's line and one of the most reliable.

You damn right. I was in NO way complaining.

> Which brings me to the comment about Rick's oil pan gasket: I
> would tighten the bolts on the oil pan, and then get a handful of those

Thanx Mike, but I already tightened the oilpan gasket bolts once andmy valve
cover area is all dry. This was my test to see if I could get
away with not having to replace it.

> little special washers to put under the heads of the valve cover gasket -
> that is usually where the 300 6 usually leaks. And the oil runs down and
> winds up on the oil pan, leading you to think the oil pan gasket is the
> culprit.
>
> Mike
>
> Rick Wojciechowski wrote:
>
> > Gang(s),
> > I am in need of a vacuum diagram for my 300 I-6 1 barrel.
> > Last night I goes to replace the fuel line cause its leaking
> > around the fitting at the fuel pump. I take it off , well then I
> > notice my carb is loose on the plate it attaches too. Therefore,
> > these screws are from underneath so you have to take the carb
> > off to get to them. Well, as I was taking the carb off I broke a
> > couple of the 1/8" vacuum lines that are bundled up. These are
> > the ones that goes to the front vacuumtree near the thermostat.
> > They have really gotten brittle over time. Anyways, so there is
> > one that I didn't brake off but dont know where it goes. I think I
> > can figure out the ones that I broke. Anyways, after I did all the
> > damage I could do last night, I see that next weeks project will
> > be replacing the oilpan gasket. :-( You guys need to keep up
> > with my bronco, cause that will be next week's question. :-)
> > Man, just once I would like to do a simple job and not have
> > this domino effect of problems. :-( Well, on the bright side
> > I havn't had to work on my engine in a few months and my
> > mustang runs solid. :-) Vacumm diagrams or help from
> > you guys.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks,
> > Rick Wojo
> > '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
> > '92 Mstng 5.0L
> > '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March
> > :-) :-))
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> --
>
> ------------
> Mike Sloane
> Allamuchy NJ
> (msloane att.net)
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 06:26:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Alex Wolfe
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oil pressure woes...

Beginning last week, after replacing a boatload of corroded and
cracking wires I began to notice something odd... When I start my 84
f-150 I-6 gauges all look fine. Temp will crawl up, oil pressure at
midrange. After almost *exactly* 10 minutes of operation you can
watch the press. gauge fall to the very bottom line of the "normal"
range (yes, it is the rather lame factory gauge). If you then turn
engine off and imediately restart the gauge will go nomal for almost
exactly 10 minutes once again... I've detected no difference in
operation, and I'm wondering if I could just be experiencing the wrath
of finicky factory gauge or if something could possibly be wrong. I
have noticed the entire time I've had the truck, that from idle up to
max RPM the gauge will not move. I'm probably going to buy a *real*
gauge soon just to put my mind at ease, but does this fit any known
mechanical problems? Thanks.

Alex
'84 F-150 I-6 w/ rust accents





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 09:01:33 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?

AeroAce13 aol.com wrote:

> I think the gaket was replaced at the base of the carb. The carb was loose
> and I had him tighten it and i think he replace the gasket when he did it.
> Although I will check it, thanks

Ed,
As I stated today already, last night I found that my carb was
loose. It gets loose where the carb meets with the base plate.
And the carb has to come off to tighten the screws, cause the
screws come up from the bottom. Tonight I may go ahead and
use some locktite on them bugers. The gaskets I replaced are
not that old either. And any one of those little vacuum lines
going to the front vacuum tree by the thermostat housing could
be broke. Might wanna have them checked as well.
As I found out last night. :-(

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 09:29:05 -0600
From: Roy Houston
Subject: FTE 80-96 - distributor parts

I need some bushings for the cams on the centrifugal advance of my
distributor. This is an 85 F150 351W w/duraspark (I think, need to look it
up, but it's not an EEC-IV for sure). I've rebuilt the engine and
overhauled the distributor because it was gummed up from the bottom side
with old oil. Now I need two little phenolic looking bushings to get this
thing running and can't find them. Ford house will only sell me a reman
distributor for ~$275.00 and local parts houses (Hi-Lo, etc.) don't sell
individual parts either.

Where can I find these? I don't want to take them out of a junker, I'd like
to have new ones.

Roy

Roy Houston
85 F-150 SuperCab 351W
houston1 _at_ slb _dot_ com
houzoodad _at_ aol _dot_ com
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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 09:48:01 -0600
From: "Stephen W. Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dual Fuel Tank Problem


When I was use the front tank, the gas fills up the rear tank and
when I use the rear tank, the gas fills up the front tank.>>>snip
I agree with Mark Ponsford. Check out this recall before you spend the 700.
I have heard of this problem before, and have a hard time believing that
both pumps are bad...
look at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.alldata.com/pro/TSB/9220_mo.html
Bulletins for 1992 Ford Truck F 150 2WD Pickup V8-351 5.8L
And I guessed on 2wd or 4wd and eng size:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.alldata.com/pro/TSB/20/92201602.html
Safety Recalls
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title1.. 94S91 NOV 94
Recall 94S91 Parking Brake Lock-In Wedge Installation
2.. 93S68 DEC 93 Fuel Tank Check Valve Installation
Procedure
3.. 93S68 SEP 93 Cross Tank Fuel Flow Condition - Recall
93S68
4.. 92S42 FEB 92 Recall 92S42 Front Door Latch Release Cable
Replacement
5.. 6.. 7.. Good luck, Steve


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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 22:11:43 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:'96 300 I6 ticking valve lifters??

Stefan asked___
I've recently noticed a ticking sound coming from my engine and am unsure as
to what it is. It's not too loud and increases with rpm's.
- ---

Is it still under warranty?
Bart-AK


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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 10:58:42 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start

Same thing happened to me on a truck I used to own. I could not keep it
running with the lights on and the battery would not charge with the lights
on.

I replaced the voltage regulator and the diode assembly in the alternator
and that fixed it.

I am not sure but I believe somehow I got ice inside the alternator and it
damaged the diode assembly which in turn screwed up the regulator. When it
first happened I opened the hood, was looking at the battery when I noticed
the face of the alternator was packed with ice and making noise. It make a
snapping sound like something breaking loose and the noise went away but the
problem didn't.

The concern with electrical components, they often cause problems in other
components that makes problems very difficult to pin down. For example the
diode assembly may have been damaged from the ice sending too much current
to the regulator and causing it to fail.

Scott

> Mike Johnson wrote:
>
> > I have a problem with my 86 f150, I6. Yesterday morning it started fine
> but
> > then later in the day when I went to start it, it was dead. I had to get
> a
> > jump start. Well every time I turn on any of the lights it dies. It
> won't
> > restart unless it is jumped. The battery reads at full charge on the
> meter.
> > What could be causing this problem? My battery is only a year old. The
> truck
> > is at the mechanic right now waiting to be diagnosed. Any help would be
> > appreciated. Thanks a lot.
>
> Mike,
> I would bet your grandmother's black dress shoes its your voltage
> regulator. Now the voltage regulator is either mounted to the passenger
> side fenderwell by the battery or your may be internal to the alternator.
> Lets hope its the fender mounted one. It costs about $8.00-$11.00 and
> takes 5 minutes to install. Anyways these are my initial thoughts cause
> I had the same problem of the Bronco discharging the battery in a
> matter of a couple hours. So's I go to diagnose it, and tear my truck
> up checking all the wires. Well, I then got back to basics an sure enough
> the voltage regultor was stuck open letting out a continuous charge.
>
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Rick Wojo
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 10:19:56 -0800
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dual Fuel Tank Problem

On Thu, 4 Feb 1999, Mark Ponsford wrote:
> I'm having a difficult time believing that the fuel pumps were the actual
> problem. The symtoms you were experiencing with gas from one tank ending up
> in the other is a known problem and covered by a safety recall from ford.
> There is a fuel control valve that is a common point that both gas tanks
> feed to. From there the fuel goes to the engine. This control valve is
> known to stick.
>
> It sounds to me like your dealer has stuck it to you. I'd go back and have
> a little talk with them. Also, don't let them claim ignorance about this.
> If they are truly ford authorized, then they get all the service notices.

A friend of mine has an E-250 that will not get fuel from the front
tank. I dropped the tank and checked it with a battery for flow and it
was OK. We are also suspecting it may be this 6 way valve but he took
it to the Ford dealer and they claimed to know nothing about it. Mind
you they are known crooks. Is "no fuel" another possible mode of
failure, so that I may have some ammunition to go back there with?

Birken
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 12:22:02 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fuel, temp, oil guages going up and down

I don't know what year Ford got a BETTER IDEA for their guage system, but
in the late 70's and early 80's they use a very cheap POS mechanical
instrument voltage regulator (IVR) that is designed to put out a contant 5
volts to these instruments. It does not put out a constant anything. It is
a piece of junk. It puts out whatever it feels like in the range of 4 to 6
volts. This makes all of these guages swing around, up and down. The first
time mine did this (many years ago) I thought I was going to boil over and
freaked. Then I saw how my 1/4 tank of gas was suddenly 1/2 tank! A miracle
was occuring in my very truck! I would never have to buy gas again!

As Arthur (below) discovered, you can bang the dash and they behave better,
until the next time the IVR feels like malfunctioning. And putting in a new
IVR seldom fixes the problem. (I tried that.) I have had pretty good luck
just getting them from a junkyard for $1 or $2 and putting them in. They
work as well (or as poorly) as a new one from the dealer (for something
like $22!). When you find yourself banging on the dsh all the time, go
visit the junkyard and get another one...

The IVR is adjustable (something most people don't know) so you can also
tinker with yours to try to get the guages all pointing to where you want
them. I usually fill up my gas tank up and adjust the IVR to put the fuel
guage directly on top of the Full line. But it will eventually wander away
from that calibration (in a few months).

I have designed (but not yet built) a replacement IVR that is completely
solid state electronics. It WILL put out a constant 5 volts. When I build
it and put it in, I will let you know how it works. I'm not too motivated
to get right on it.

Arthur Dembinski wrote:
"I've had a similar problem with my '83 6.9 L diesel, but it's
intermittent, both gauges go past F and the temp gauge rises fairly
high, but there is no overheating. It happens only in warm weather,
never in winter. It's been happening since 1984. My dashboard is
cracked right over the gauge position, due to my discovery that I can
also temporarily fix the problem by thumping the dash with my right
fist. Everything returns to normal. Must be a wiring or voltage
problem in the dash, which I haven't bothered to fix."




Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton
'63 Buick Riviera
'80 Ford F-150
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 14:56:23 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel, temp, oil guages going up and down

OK, this is a shot in the dark, but I may have an inexpensive solution. I
happened to be looking for something similar, and I ran across the following at
All Electronics Corporation

"DC-DC Converter. 5 Vdc, 1400ma. Watt Industries #XLCS2401. Input 4.5-5.5 Vdc,
Output 4.95-5.05 Vdc, 1000 ma. Provides a very clean, stable 5 vdc output.
2"x2"x.43" block with pc leads. Cat # DC-10 $3.75"

Can I put something like this in line with the IVR and attain a smooth voltage
to the dashboard? I realize that I might have to add a small perfboard and
maybe a case and hardware, but if it costs $5 for the whole mess, it sounds
like an inexpensive solution to the problem. It would be nice to find a 12-5
volt supply and get rid of the IVR completely, but All Electronics didn't show
one in their catalog.

Mike

Jim Cannon wrote:

> I don't know what year Ford got a BETTER IDEA for their guage system, but
> in the late 70's and early 80's they use a very cheap POS mechanical
> instrument voltage regulator (IVR) that is designed to put out a contant 5
> volts to these instruments. It does not put out a constant anything. It is
> a piece of junk. It puts out whatever it feels like in the range of 4 to 6
> volts. This makes all of these guages swing around, up and down. The first
> time mine did this (many years ago) I thought I was going to boil over and
> freaked. Then I saw how my 1/4 tank of gas was suddenly 1/2 tank! A miracle
> was occuring in my very truck! I would never have to buy gas again!
>
> As Arthur (below) discovered, you can bang the dash and they behave better,
> until the next time the IVR feels like malfunctioning. And putting in a new
> IVR seldom fixes the problem. (I tried that.) I have had pretty good luck
> just getting them from a junkyard for $1 or $2 and putting them in. They
> work as well (or as poorly) as a new one from the dealer (for something
> like $22!). When you find yourself banging on the dsh all the time, go
> visit the junkyard and get another one...
>
> The IVR is adjustable (something most people don't know) so you can also
> tinker with yours to try to get the guages all pointing to where you want
> them. I usually fill up my gas tank up and adjust the IVR to put the fuel
> guage directly on top of the Full line. But it will eventually wander away
> from that calibration (in a few months).
>
> I have designed (but not yet built) a replacement IVR that is completely
> solid state electronics. It WILL put out a constant 5 volts. When I build
> it and put it in, I will let you know how it works. I'm not too motivated
> to get right on it.
>
> Arthur Dembinski wrote:
> "I've had a similar problem with my '83 6.9 L diesel, but it's
> intermittent, both gauges go past F and the temp gauge rises fairly
> high, but there is no overheating. It happens only in warm weather,
> never in winter. It's been happening since 1984. My dashboard is
> cracked right over the gauge position, due to my discovery that I can
> also temporarily fix the problem by thumping the dash with my right
> fist. Everything returns to normal. Must be a wiring or voltage
> problem in the dash, which I haven't bothered to fix."
>
> Jim Cannon
> Houston, TX
> '29 Ford Model A Phaeton
> '63 Buick Riviera
> '80 Ford F-150
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 15:58:33 EST
From: INGENERATE aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 7.3L Diesel

Another good article is in the March 1999 issue of Petersen's 4wheel &off-
road,
on page 50. It is surprising how much power you can gain with just a chip!
With a 1996 F-350 Powerstroke:
Horsepower:2000rpm2500rpm3000rpm
stock:150hp165hp175hp
with Power Chip:230hp238hp240hp
GAIN over stock 80HP 73HP65HP

Torque:2000rpm2500rpm3000rpm
stock:394 ft/lbs347 ft/lbs306 ft/lbs
with Power Chip:603 ft/lbs500 ft/lbs420 ft/lbs
GAIN OVER STOCK: 209 ft/lbs 153 ft/lbs 114 ft/lbs
and, if that's not enough, the article says they gained mpg too!

Eric Jones, FL
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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 16:32:47 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Truck won't start

IT IS EITHER THE ALTERNATOR OR THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR.
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Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 16:59:47 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Spring nominations

Fellow FTEs:

Once again, Car Lounge is taking nominations for their
top ten automotive sites awards. FTE has, thanks to
its members, consistantly won a top 10 award.

Last quarter something shameful happened: FTE won second
place... Chevy's corporate site won first place.

If you like FTE's site and services, please take a
couple of moments to nominate us.

The nomination form can be found at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://carlounge.com/nominate.htm

Thanks,
Ken Payne
FTE Admin


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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 14:04:35 -0800
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dual Fuel Tank Problem

>On Thu, 4 Feb 1999, Mark Ponsford wrote:
>> I'm having a difficult time believing that the fuel pumps were the actual
>> problem. The symtoms you were experiencing with gas from one tank ending up
>> in the other is a known problem and covered by a safety recall from ford.
>> There is a fuel control valve that is a common point that both gas tanks
>> feed to. From there the fuel goes to the engine. This control valve is
>> known to stick.
>>
>> It sounds to me like your dealer has stuck it to you. I'd go back and have
>> a little talk with them. Also, don't let them claim ignorance about this.
>> If they are truly ford authorized, then they get all the service notices.
>
>A friend of mine has an E-250 that will not get fuel from the front
>tank. I dropped the tank and checked it with a battery for flow and it
>was OK. We are also suspecting it may be this 6 way valve but he took
>it to the Ford dealer and they claimed to know nothing about it. Mind
>you they are known crooks. Is "no fuel" another possible mode of
>failure, so that I may have some ammunition to go back there with?
>
>Birken

Sorry, but I don't know if fuel starvation is a symptom of this problem. It
does sound plausible though.


- ---------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Ponsfordphone: (250) 721-7397
McPherson Library - Systemsfax: (250) 721-8215
University of Victoria
Victoria, B.C. Canada V8W 3H5


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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 14:14:04 -0800
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel, temp, oil guages going up and down

Along the same lines of what mike is saying below, how about a 7805? Its a
single IC that looks like a transistor but is actually an integrated
voltage regulator putting out a constant 5VDC. Only problem is that it is
good for only 1 Amp. Anyone know how much current is going through the
stock IVR?


>OK, this is a shot in the dark, but I may have an inexpensive solution. I
>happened to be looking for something similar, and I ran across the
>following at
>All Electronics Corporation
>
>"DC-DC Converter. 5 Vdc, 1400ma. Watt Industries #XLCS2401. Input 4.5-5.5
>Vdc,
>Output 4.95-5.05 Vdc, 1000 ma. Provides a very clean, stable 5 vdc output.
>2"x2"x.43" block with pc leads. Cat # DC-10 $3.75"
>
>Can I put something like this in line with the IVR and attain a smooth voltage
>to the dashboard? I realize that I might have to add a small perfboard and
>maybe a case and hardware, but if it costs $5 for the whole mess, it sounds
>like an inexpensive solution to the problem. It would be nice to find a 12-5
>volt supply and get rid of the IVR completely, but All Electronics didn't show
>one in their catalog.
>
>Mike
>
>Jim Cannon wrote:
>
>> I don't know what year Ford got a BETTER IDEA for their guage system, but
>> in the late 70's and early 80's they use a very cheap POS mechanical
>> instrument voltage regulator (IVR) that is designed to put out a contant 5
>> volts to these instruments. It does not put out a constant anything. It is
>> a piece of junk. It puts out whatever it feels like in the range of 4 to 6
>> volts. This makes all of these guages swing around, up and down. The first
>> time mine did this (many years ago) I thought I was going to boil over and
>> freaked. Then I saw how my 1/4 tank of gas was suddenly 1/2 tank! A miracle
>> was occuring in my very truck! I would never have to buy gas again!
>>
>> As Arthur (below) discovered, you can bang the dash and they behave better,
>> until the next time the IVR feels like malfunctioning. And putting in a new
>> IVR seldom fixes the problem. (I tried that.) I have had pretty good luck
>> just getting them from a junkyard for $1 or $2 and putting them in. They
>> work as well (or as poorly) as a new one from the dealer (for something
>> like $22!). When you find yourself banging on the dsh all the time, go
>> visit the junkyard and get another one...
>>
>> The IVR is adjustable (something most people don't know) so you can also
>> tinker with yours to try to get the guages all pointing to where you want
>> them. I usually fill up my gas tank up and adjust the IVR to put the fuel
>> guage directly on top of the Full line. But it will eventually wander away
>> from that calibration (in a few months).
>>
>> I have designed (but not yet built) a replacement IVR that is completely
>> solid state electronics. It WILL put out a constant 5 volts. When I build
>> it and put it in, I will let you know how it works. I'm not too motivated
>> to get right on it.
>>
>> Arthur Dembinski wrote:
>> "I've had a similar problem with my '83 6.9 L diesel, but it's
>> intermittent, both gauges go past F and the temp gauge rises fairly
>> high, but there is no overheating. It happens only in warm weather,
>> never in winter. It's been happening since 1984. My dashboard is
>> cracked right over the gauge position, due to my discovery that I can
>> also temporarily fix the problem by thumping the dash with my right
>> fist. Everything returns to normal. Must be a wiring or voltage
>> problem in the dash, which I haven't bothered to fix."
>>
>> Jim Cannon
>> Houston, TX
>> '29 Ford Model A Phaeton
>> '63 Buick Riviera
>> '80 Ford F-150
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>
>
>
>--
>
>------------
>Mike Sloane
>Allamuchy NJ
>(msloane att.net)
>
>
>
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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 15:36:40 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Fuel, temp, oil gauges going up and down

A simple DC to DC power supply will work. Go to your local surplus
electronics parts store
and pick up a salvaged one that will take 10-15 VDC in and put out a
regulated 5 VDC 5 amps.

I believe the brand most commonly used is Power One and are the size of a
pack of cigarettes.
Some are hermetically sealed in epoxy with wires pig tailed out of the side.

Not sure but I think I remember seeing DC to DC supplies at Radio Shack.
(not just the ones that plug into the cigarette lighter) Even the ones that
plug into your cigarette lighter could be converted to work but like you
said, one amp may not be enough. They just use the 78XX series regulators
like Mark suggested.

I believe the VR's in the dashes are adjustable, if that is the case then
the Power One supplies would be my first choice because they too are
adjustable and would cost only about 5 bucks. They have huge boxes of them
at the surplus salvage stores and the specs are printed on the chassis.

I would worry if the problem is the incoming voltage first.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Mark Ponsford [SMTP:mponsfor uvic.ca]
> Sent:Friday, February 05, 1999 3:14 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel, temp, oil guages going up and down
>
> Along the same lines of what mike is saying below, how about a 7805? Its a
> single IC that looks like a transistor but is actually an integrated
> voltage regulator putting out a constant 5VDC. Only problem is that it is
> good for only 1 Amp. Anyone know how much current is going through the
> stock IVR?
>
>
> >OK, this is a shot in the dark, but I may have an inexpensive solution. I
> >happened to be looking for something similar, and I ran across the
> >following at
> >All Electronics Corporation
> >
> >"DC-DC Converter. 5 Vdc, 1400ma. Watt Industries #XLCS2401. Input 4.5-5.5
> >Vdc,
> >Output 4.95-5.05 Vdc, 1000 ma. Provides a very clean, stable 5 vdc
> output.
> >2"x2"x.43" block with pc leads. Cat # DC-10 $3.75"
> >
> >Can I put something like this in line with the IVR and attain a smooth
> voltage
> >to the dashboard? I realize that I might have to add a small perfboard
> and
> >maybe a case and hardware, but if it costs $5 for the whole mess, it
> sounds
> >like an inexpensive solution to the problem. It would be nice to find a
> 12-5
> >volt supply and get rid of the IVR completely, but All Electronics didn't
> show
> >one in their catalog.
> >
> >Mike
>
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Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 15:23:58 -0800
From: Erston Reisch
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E4OD, Need a Transmission Shop [WA State]

Rade,

Thanks for the lead! I'll give 'em a call and see what they can do for me.

I looked them up in the phone book, and they're right around the corner from
me.. so I have the address and #.. but thanks anyway! :)

TTYL,

- - Erston



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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 15:42:32 -0900
From: "Stefan Rearden"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 96 XL 300 I6 ticking; Should I change the gearing?

Hey guys,

Thanks for the input on the ticking problem I posted earlier. I'm still
trying to figure it out. Hopefully I'll find out what it is this weekend.
I'm bringing it over to a friends garage so I can get it out of the cold so
we can do a more thorough inspection. I have checked the oil (5w-50
synthetic) and it's full. I've also noticed a 1/4 inch size hole on the
muffler, so maybe this will provide some answers (hopefully).
One other question I have is, I'm going to be changing out my stock ford 29
inch tires to either 31, 32, or 33 inch by 11.50's BF Goodrich A/T's on
15x10 rims (still unsure). I was wondering if I should change the ring and
pinion gear, or will the gearing I have on it currently be adequate (I'm not
sure what's in it currently, 3.73:1?)? I don't want to change the gearing
right now till I have more money, (I'm a student at UAF). I want to
maintain gas mileage and performance. Also, I don't have the truck lifted,
yet, so do any of you know if I'll have adequate clearance on this truck?
It's a 96 XL with no modifications to the engine (yet).

Thanks for any suggestions,
Stefan Rearden
Fairbanks Alaska

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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 20:02:48 EST
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?

hey i had the same thing on my 200 i6. had water getting splashed up
underneath
the distributor. I covered the bottom with wide duck tape.

brian
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Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 21:40:29 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fuel, temp, oil guages going up and down

If this comes through twice, sorry. Netscrap seems to be really MSing.


Mark Ponsford wrote:
>
> Along the same lines of what mike is saying below, how about a 7805? Its a
> single IC that looks like a transistor but is actually an integrated
> voltage regulator putting out a constant 5VDC. Only problem is that it is
> good for only 1 Amp. Anyone know how much current is going through the
> stock IVR?
>
It can't be drawing a whole lot of amperage. Sixties used the
same type of instrument panel regulator. Basically a bimetallic switch
that opens an closes to give an _average_ 5V, what it really is is
switched 12V, just switched rapidly.

The Mailing List Archives has this to say on the whole deal.
Included is a schematic for hooking up a 7805. In fact, one of the
magazines ran an article on how to do it and hide the whole
thing inside an original can, so it would look original at car shows.

Here's the URL for the site:

ftp://rohan.sdsu.edu/pub/mml/archive/Electrical%26Ignition/instrument-voltage-regulator.txt

That's all _one_ line, mailers tend to wrap things.

Oh, and part of this article quotes at least one Fordnaticas having done
it, so it should work on our trucks.

- --
Andre, (went a whole post without mentioning Mopar...oooops :) Somewhere
...
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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 23:02:44 -0500
From: "Daniel Fisher"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - van for towing

Does anyone have any information on using a Ford conversion van for towing a
travel trailer. What size engine and what gear ratio seem to work. I have
a trailer which has a gross weight of 7000 pounds and I would like enough
power to drive comfortably. I would like any information from someone who
currently or in the past has had some experience with this, high top or low
top, which works better???

Thanks in advance,

Dan

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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 23:31:59 -0500
From: "N.D. Whaley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - van for towing

I have a 93 with 302 & 3.5 rear, tried pulling 9000... even keeping it out
of over drive, it was poor. Our old van with 351 was fine on expressways
around Michigan and ran with the traffic fine. On side roads she slowed
down on steep hills though... it depends on terain. You want to pull 10,000
Lbs all day... get a deisel.


At 11:02 PM 2/5/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Does anyone have any information on using a Ford conversion van for towing a
>travel trailer. What size engine and what gear ratio seem to work. I have
>a trailer which has a gross weight of 7000 pounds and I would like enough
>power to drive comfortably. I would like any information from someone who
>currently or in the past has had some experience with this, high top or low
>top, which works better???
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Dan
>
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>

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Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 20:41:08 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Traction bar pics, Attn: Dana, Sam

Randy wrote:
>
> Hey gang,
> Some of you wanted to see some pics of the traction bars my buddy made
> for his F-250. Sorry it took so long, I finally got everything to come
> together. I just put the page up, I have no links to it off my main
> page, it's all by itself. The pics were taken by another buddy w/a
> digital camera, but aren't really that great considering that. I don't
> have much more info than what's on the page, but e-mail me directly if
> you have some questions, I'll see what I can do.
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ncweb.com/~runawaykid/truck.html
>
> Later,
> Brew
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Hey Brew, thanks for the pics but I don't see what eliminates the wrap.
Where does the flat bar that runs up from the tract bar attach to. I'd
like to give you a call on the phone to clarify this if I could. I can
be reached at 702-791-7548 after 5pm PT. I will call you back as to....


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