80-96-list-digest Friday, February 5 1999 Volume 03 : Number 032



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Gearing and Lockers
FTE 80-96 - dieing
Re: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
FTE 80-96 - Dual Fuel Tank Problem
RE: Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 ticking valve lifters??
Re: FTE 80-96 - Gearing and Lockers
FTE 80-96 - Model years for dash mounted OD switch
Re: FTE 80-96 - Gearing and Lockers
RE: Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
RE: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
FTE 80-96 - RE: Rattle under hood...
Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 ticking valve lifters??
FTE 80-96 - Ticking
FTE 80-96 - Inaccurate guages
RE: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Gearing and Lockers
Re: Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Fuel Tank Problem
FTE 80-96 - Noise and Brakes
FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Calibration FOUND IT
FTE 80-96 - 7.3L Diesel
FTE 80-96 - was Re: inaccurate gauges
Re: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Loose Steering wheel column
FTE 80-96 - Traction bar pics, Attn: Dana, Sam
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Fuel Tank Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - 7.3L Diesel
Re: Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
FTE 80-96 - E4OD, Need a Transmission Shop [WA State]
Re: FTE 80-96 - E4OD, Need a Transmission Shop [WA State]
RE: FTE 80-96 - Dual Fuel Tank Problem

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 07:17:25 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Gearing and Lockers

OK gang...new dilemma. I am ready to start the next phase of my build up and I
have hit another wall. I am trying to decide what type of rear end gearing to
go with. Presently I have the one-wheel push 8.8" rear with the 3.55 gears. I
am planning on going with the Trac-lok locker and possibly C-Clip eliminators.
I have been told that I should probably just keep my 3.55 gears and just try
it with the locker first. They say that the locker will make such an
improvement that I probably wont need the gears. I am looking to keep my
highway manners as much as possible, but I still want the OOMPH off the line
that only 3.73 or shorter gears can give me.
What do you think? I value all of your opinions and any input would be
appreciated.
Thanks
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside Page
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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 06:24:01 -0600
From: "Sam Means"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - dieing

Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 06:50:19 -0800
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Choked to death ?

1986 Ford F250 4x4
351W with Duraspark II ignition

Here's the problem:
When cold, the engine fires right up and runs fine for several blocks of
driving and idling. After the engine temp starts warming up, it dies at idle
but will restart easily. Once the engine is completely warm, it runs fine.
The dying only occurs at idle but you can feel the engine being starved
during this phase of warmup. Especially when I let off the gas to coast.

The engine and carb have a 100 miles on a rebuild. The same problem existed
before the rebuild. All emission controls (PCV, fuel evaporative, EGR, spark
control, thermactor, exhaust, and deceleration) systems are connected but
where not checked during the rebuild.

My GUESS is that the problem comes from the emission control system. Does
anyone know if my guess is correct and if so, where do I start to fix the
problem?

Dennis

Relative to the "dieing" problem,I until recently owned 1984 f150 with 351
ngine. Bought it new and had it approximately 16 years. During this time I
came to know it's quirks. I found the above mentioned problem has at least
three causes which result in internal iceing of the carburetor. Proof that
it is internal iceing can be recognized by allowing the engine to remain off
for 30 to 45 seconds after it dies at idle. It will then start and idle
normally because the internal ice melts quickly.
The causes I ran across are: 1) inlet air vacuum damper diaphragm ruptured,
2) vacuum switch inside the air cleaner not passing vacuum to the damper
motor when cold, and 3) a leaking diaphragm in the power brake booster.
When cold, the vacuum switch in the air cleaner opens to allow vacuum to
close the damper to draw hot air from the exhaust manifold into the
carburetor for heating purposes.When the air reaches a preset temperature
the switch closes,the damper opens, and ambient temperature air is drawn in.
If the inlet air is aroud 42 degrees or colder,particularly with high
humidity,I observed this iceing. It will not occur at cold start due to the
mixture enriching caused by the choke being on.
The third cause listed above is the one that drove me nuts for more than a
year or two. I knew there was a vacuum leak somewhere but could not find
it..could not hear it. I assume the additional leaning of the mixture
contributes to the iceing. The brakes worked normally at all times. I
rebuilt the carb more than a couple of times. I bought a new carburetor
which acted exactly the same way. After warm,the engine tolerated the vacuum
leak and ran not perfectly but pretty good.It never dropped a cylinder at
idle as is usually the case with a vacuum leak. Fortunately my wife can hear
better than I and she finally heard it.
After replacing the brake booster it ran like an entirely different vehicle.
Sam
smeans inetport.com




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Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 07:42:09 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?

AeroAce13 aol.com wrote:

> Hey guys, thanks for the help with my truck stalling in the wet wether. I
> replaced th cap rotor and wires, but it didn't help any. So I called my
> mechanic and he said all the 300 6I do it, I find this hard to believe because
> there is something that is making it run bad. Has anyone heard this before?

Ed,
As a proud owner of the I-6 in my '83 Bronco, I can say your
mechanic is full of sh*t. Mine runs and runs and runs and runs
great. One thing I replaced was the base plate gasket on the carb.
Its a thin metal gasket. I still think you have a vacuum problem
somewhere letting in the moisture and killing the engine.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 08:42:59 -0500
From: John DeVincentis
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dual Fuel Tank Problem

I have a 92 F-150 with Dual tanks.
When I was use the front tank, the gas fills up the rear tank and
when I use the rear tank, the gas fills up the front tank.
I brought it to the dealer and was told that I needed to replace both
fuel
pumps - the check valves were bad in both pumps (fuel pumps are
expensive).
I asked if I could convert the truck from a dual tank to single tank so
that I would only have to maintain one tank and pump. The dealer told me

that it would cost they same to fix both tanks as it would to convert to
a single
tank. Has anyone converted over from dual tanks to a single tank?
If so, is it difficult.
I decided to listen to the dealer and had them replace both fuel pumps.
The truck is running fine, but it was an expensive repair ~$700 for
parts and labor.
Is there any kind of trade in value for the old fuel pumps?

Thanks for any feedback....

- --
Regards,
John Dee

John DeVincentis
MITRE Corporation
202 Burlington Road M/S E090
Bedford, Massachusetts 01730
781-271-2442 (PHONE)
781-271-8583 (FAX)
jdev mitre.org (E-MAIL)



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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 08:13:44 -0600
From: Roger Lane
Subject: RE: Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?

Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?

Hey guys, thanks for the help with my truck stalling in the wet weather. I
replaced the cap rotor and wires, but it didn't help any. So I called my
mechanic and he said all the 300 6I do it, I find this hard to believe
because
there is something that is making it run bad. Has anyone heard this
before?
Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated, or should I just drop in
a
new engine with electronic ignition. Thanks again.

Ed
F-150 xlt 4x4 lariet

Okay, Ed.
Number 1 thing to do - Find a NEW MECHHANIC!!!
Number 2 - Make sure your coil is not cracked.

I have owned several of these motors and never had problems in wet weather,
with or without electronic ignition.

Roger Lane
Test/Support Analyst
(402)241-3570
Roger.Lane IBPINC.COM

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Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 06:17:48 PST
From: "Steve Likness"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 ticking valve lifters??

==============================
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 15:12:58 -0900
From: "Stefan Rearden"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 96 300 I6 ticking valve lifters??

I've recently noticed a ticking sound coming from my engine and am
unsure as
to what it is. It's not too loud and increases with rpm's. I think it
may
be a stuck lifter, but am unsure. What else could it be if not that.
My
truck only has 32000 miles on it.
We've been experiencing -30 to -40 F weather here in Fairbanks, AK for a
couple of weeks and I'm wondering if this may have contributed to the
ticking? I have a block heater and an oil pan heater in it.
Thanks for any help you guys may be able to give me,
Stefan R.

============================

That happened to me once on my '82 and I found that the metal splash
plate around the oil filler hole in the valve cover was loose and needed
to be welded back in place. Who knows what it is, I'm just saying it
could be a number of items.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 09:24:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Speed Racer
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gearing and Lockers

The locker is only going to help you hook up the rears on acceleration off
the line and coming out of corners (it also gives the coolness of doing
burnouts with both rear tires). It doesn't actually improve your
acceleration, just reduces unnesscesary wheelspin (or adds it!). Go with
the 3.73. Trust me. They are arguably the best street gear ever. You
have mounds of acceleration, and still retain a good top speed and good
gas milage at cruising speeds.

Trenton Munsell
Oakland University-- Mechanical Engineering
1998-99 SAE President
1998-99 FSAE Team Leader
Brakes are a sign of weakness.....
..... When in doubt-- GAS IT!!!!!

On Thu, 4 Feb 1999 FLR150 aol.com wrote:

> OK gang...new dilemma. I am ready to start the next phase of my build up and I
> have hit another wall. I am trying to decide what type of rear end gearing to
> go with. Presently I have the one-wheel push 8.8" rear with the 3.55 gears. I
> am planning on going with the Trac-lok locker and possibly C-Clip eliminators..
> I have been told that I should probably just keep my 3.55 gears and just try
> it with the locker first. They say that the locker will make such an
> improvement that I probably wont need the gears. I am looking to keep my
> highway manners as much as possible, but I still want the OOMPH off the line
> that only 3.73 or shorter gears can give me.
> What do you think? I value all of your opinions and any input would be
> appreciated.
> Thanks
> Wayne Foy
> '94 Flareside Supercab
> "Hazardous Material"
> Wayne's Flareside Page
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 09:04:02 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Model years for dash mounted OD switch

I'm going to the boneyards this weekend looking for Overdrive control switch
that is mounted on the dash to the right of the steering column. My
question is what model years have it. I know in '92 the switch moved to the
end of the shift stalk. I'm thinking the dash button first appeared in
about '87. It probably ties into when the E4OD was introduced. Anyone have
any ideas?
Thanks,
David Anderson


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Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 07:52:26 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gearing and Lockers

FLR150 aol.com wrote:

> OK gang...new dilemma. I am ready to start the next phase of my build up and I
> have hit another wall. I am trying to decide what type of rear end gearing to
> go with. Presently I have the one-wheel push 8.8" rear with the 3.55 gears

Wayne,
I think you'll have to think that one through yourself, The big picture will tell
you where the sweet spot for the gearing would be. Tires, highway travel, seat of
the pants throttle, they negate each other easily. I think Four-wheeler mag ran an
article on tire sizes and gearing in relation to RPM, I may still have it lying
around. Let me know if you need the info and I'll look it up.

Bob


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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 08:54:50 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?

Ed,

My brother-in-law has the same problem with his 300 I6. So far he has spent
500 bucks at the dealer in repairs and it still does it. They replaced just
about everything I guess and it still does it. Maybe replacing it is the
only answer, maybe the 300 I6 is just a problem motor because I read a lot
of these posts and see no solutions, but I keep reading hoping someone will
solve your problem so I can tell him.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Roger Lane [SMTP:Roger.Lane IBPINC.com]
> Sent:Thursday, February 04, 1999 7:14 AM
> To:'80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com'
> Subject:RE: Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
>
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
>
> Hey guys, thanks for the help with my truck stalling in the wet weather.
> I
> replaced the cap rotor and wires, but it didn't help any. So I called my
> mechanic and he said all the 300 6I do it, I find this hard to believe
> because
> there is something that is making it run bad. Has anyone heard this
> before?
> Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated, or should I just drop
> in
> a
> new engine with electronic ignition. Thanks again.
>
> Ed
> F-150 xlt 4x4 lariet
>
> Okay, Ed.
> Number 1 thing to do - Find a NEW MECHHANIC!!!
> Number 2 - Make sure your coil is not cracked.
>
> I have owned several of these motors and never had problems in wet
> weather,
> with or without electronic ignition.
>
> Roger Lane
> Test/Support Analyst
> (402)241-3570
> Roger.Lane IBPINC.COM
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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 11:08:23 -0500
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?

My 86 300 I6 truck idles rough only when the weather is wet. It does not
stall though. I have replaced the cap and rotor, plugs and wires
without any help. It has done it for years. I don't know what would
cause it to do this. Distributor or coil maybe???

Mike


> Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 22:47:15 EST
> From: AeroAce13 aol.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?
>
> Hey guys, thanks for the help with my truck stalling in the
> wet wether. I replaced the cap rotor and wires, but it didn't
> help any. So I called my mechanic and he said all the 300 6I
> do it, I find this hard to believe because there is
> something that is making it run bad. Has anyone heard this
> before? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated,
> or should I just drop in a new engine with electronic ignition.
> Thanks again.
>
> Ed
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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 10:33:23 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Rattle under hood...

My 2 cents, based on owning an 88, an 89, and a 92 (all F-150's - different
times!) That the cowl is doing it!

The 88 got a shadetree fix of a folded piece of tape stuffed between cowl
and windshield trim....89 never did and 92 hasn't exhibited it yet....

Could be worse...88 also had the firewall cracking aroung the brake/clutch
area...had to cob it up as well!!!

Dave Harmier
dharmier gte.net


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Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 10:52:02 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 ticking valve lifters??

Steve Likness wrote:

> I've recently noticed a ticking sound coming from my engine and am
> unsure as
> to what it is. It's not too loud and increases with rpm's. I think it
> may
> be a stuck lifter, but am unsure. What else could it be if not that.
> My
> truck only has 32000 miles on it.

If you feel it is internal to the engine, then try a higher octanegasoline.
That seems to work for my Dad's I-6 in his '81
Bronco, that was rebuilt not to long ago. However, that could
also just be a band-aid to the timing needing adjusting. Also,
you need to make sure you stick with the same oil brand at oil
changes. One last simple observation is low oil will also cause
the pinging. My $0.02

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-)
:-))


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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 11:54:07 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ticking

Stefan Rearden writes: >>I've recently noticed a ticking sound coming from my
engine and am unsure as
to what it is. It's not too loud and increases with rpm's. I think it may
be a stuck lifter, but am unsure. What else could it be if not that.

A time bomb, maybe. .... Your diagnosis is good. Only other thing I would
recommend to look for is exhaust leak. They are very deceiving at times.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 11:57:36 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Inaccurate guages

Art Dembinski writes: >>Yes, the oil pressure also reads high at those times.
All three
gauges go up & down together, at other times work normally.

You just eliminated the guages themselves. It is either the Cluster voltage
regulator or a common ground to all three guages.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 09:58:52 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?

Rick Wojo wrote:

> I still think you have a vacuum problem somewhere letting in the moisture
> and killing the engine.
>
Rick,

More than likely the vacuum leak alone will kill it, not the humidity of the
air. The most sensitive part of the system to moisture is the ignition
system.

I never had this problem, but if I did I would get a squirt bottle of water
and spray it in different parts of the motor until it ran rough to see where
the problem was.

Scott

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Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 11:11:15 -0600
From: Steve Randa
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gearing and Lockers

Hi Wayne,

I removed the Power-Trax locker out of my Mustang (9" going in) and installed it
in my '84 F150. Works great with the occassional clunk around corners but that's
to be expected from a locker.

Steve Randa
'84 F150 XLT
'85 Mustang GT

FLR150 aol.com wrote:

> OK gang...new dilemma. I am ready to start the next phase of my build up and I
> have hit another wall. I am trying to decide what type of rear end gearing to
> go with. Presently I have the one-wheel push 8.8" rear with the 3.55 gears. I
> am planning on going with the Trac-lok locker and possibly C-Clip eliminators.
> I have been told that I should probably just keep my 3.55 gears and just try
> it with the locker first. They say that the locker will make such an
> improvement that I probably wont need the gears. I am looking to keep my
> highway manners as much as possible, but I still want the OOMPH off the line
> that only 3.73 or shorter gears can give me.
> What do you think? I value all of your opinions and any input would be
> appreciated.
> Thanks
> Wayne Foy
> '94 Flareside Supercab
> "Hazardous Material"
> Wayne's Flareside Page
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 09:21:42 -0800
From: Erston Reisch
Subject: Re: Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?

List/Scott,

My 300ci runs fine in wet weather. It hasn't been anything but raining since
I bought the truck, so perhaps mine runs fine in the wet and poorly when it's
dry. :-)

>From everything I've read and heard about the 300ci, it's a rock solid motor
and shouldn't exhibit problems. The inline six design is smooth, the FI well
tuned, and many of these motors go 300-500,000 miles in commercial service.

Let's not talk about trannys - my '90 is at the shop for a check engine light
that I think may be the torque converter dying. *sigh*

As for the original poster's problem, it would depend on the fuel delivery
system of the F-150 in question. If it's carbed, I would start checking for
vacuum leaks. If it's FI, I would start checking every electrical connection
for corrosion and since you're there, treat them with something to prevent
moisture and corrosion. What year is it, btw?

- - Erston ('90 F-150 XLT Lariat 300ci/E4OD)



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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 10:11:37 -0800
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Fuel Tank Problem

>I have a 92 F-150 with Dual tanks.
>When I was use the front tank, the gas fills up the rear tank and
>when I use the rear tank, the gas fills up the front tank.
>I brought it to the dealer and was told that I needed to replace both
>fuel
>pumps - the check valves were bad in both pumps (fuel pumps are
>expensive).
>I asked if I could convert the truck from a dual tank to single tank so
>that I would only have to maintain one tank and pump. The dealer told me
>
>that it would cost they same to fix both tanks as it would to convert to
>a single
>tank. Has anyone converted over from dual tanks to a single tank?
>If so, is it difficult.
>I decided to listen to the dealer and had them replace both fuel pumps.
>The truck is running fine, but it was an expensive repair ~$700 for
>parts and labor.
>Is there any kind of trade in value for the old fuel pumps?
>
>Thanks for any feedback....
>
>--
>Regards,
>John Dee

I'm having a difficult time believing that the fuel pumps were the actual
problem. The symtoms you were experiencing with gas from one tank ending up
in the other is a known problem and covered by a safety recall from ford.
There is a fuel control valve that is a common point that both gas tanks
feed to. From there the fuel goes to the engine. This control valve is
known to stick.

It sounds to me like your dealer has stuck it to you. I'd go back and have
a little talk with them. Also, don't let them claim ignorance about this.
If they are truly ford authorized, then they get all the service notices.


- ---------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Ponsfordphone: (250) 721-7397
McPherson Library - Systemsfax: (250) 721-8215
University of Victoria
Victoria, B.C. Canada V8W 3H5


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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 10:15:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Jack TheDog
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Noise and Brakes

Greetings,
I too am experiencing a rattle in what seems to be the front of my
truck. I have a 1990 F250 4x4 7.3L Diesel. When I start it up there
is a loud rattle/vibration under the hood. It sounds like it is
coming from under the venting just below the windsheild. The rattle
goes away once the truck is at normal operating temperature. The
rattle/vibration will also go away (when the motor is below normal
operating tempurature) if you increase the rpm ever so slightly. The
vehicle idles at about 600-700 RPM. Fast idle is at about 850 rpm.
The rattle is there when the fast idle is on. Once the fast idle
turns off the rattle is there when the motor is idling (at this point
motor is below normal operating temp.) but will go away if you push
the accelerator and increase the rpm just above normal idle speed. I
don't get it, it rattles at fast idle, it rattles at normal idle but
it won't rattle if in manualy increase the idle above normal idle
speed, which is still below fast idle speed.
What's up with that?
thanks,
Jack




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 11:13:00 -0600
From: "Gourde, Darrin"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Calibration FOUND IT

Start with 20186, divide by actual tire size in inches. Divide again by
66.66.

Example: 20186/34.5=585.1/66.66=8.78.

Thus for 34.5 inch tires, the calibration is 878.

To set the calibration, ground the single wire connector under the glove
box, hold in reset button on trip meter and turn ignition to ON. From here,
use Select to get proper calibration and press reset to store.

This can ONLY be done 6 times before you have to replace the module.

Darrin
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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 13:49:15 -0500
From: "David Butts"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 7.3L Diesel

I noticed Peterson's 4W had a "small" article about a U.S. Gear chip for the
7.3L PS Diesel. Has anyone seen this product? How much? Does it work?
Where can you get it?

Just wondering, I have heard from many sources that Ford de-tuned the 7.3L
PSD from IH's specifications. This article says you can get an ~ extra 100
foot/pounds of torque at 2000 RPM from the chip upgrade.

ThanX


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Date: Thu, 04 Feb 99 10:58:14 -0800
From: todd trifilm.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - was Re: inaccurate gauges

Erston wrote:

>I'm glad it's not just me - my '90 300ci, >keep you warm, even with a coat on.
My >temp gauge goes about 1/3 up the range
>and sticks there as well.

The temp gauge on my Bronco stays about 1/3 too. About three years ago I played
with different thermostats and replaced the heater core because of a pinhole
leak. I never had good heat output and I thought this would fix it, it didn't.
The hoses leading into and out of the heater core were hot, the fan worked at
its different settings and the little vacuum motors all seemed to be doing their
jobs. Stumped, I put on a jacket and decided to live with it. Well, a couple of
weeks ago I had the glove box off for some wiring I was doing and I decided to
check on the heater core while I was in there. I didn't find anything wrong with
the heater core but I did notice something down inside the heater plenum.
Apparently someone had dropped a pen down a vent and it came to rest against the
plenum door that controls the hot/fresh air mix, the dash temp slider continued
to work but the door was stopped short of full hot by the pen. Yanked the pen,
buttoned her up, and now I actually have to turn my heat down. Hope that helps
someone who's chillin'.

Todd '87 Bronco


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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 15:37:01 EST
From: AeroAce13 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?

I think the gaket was replaced at the base of the carb. The carb was loose
and I had him tighten it and i think he replace the gasket when he did it.
Although I will check it, thanks

Ed
F-150 XLT 4x4 Lariet
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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 17:28:16 EST
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Loose Steering wheel column

In a message dated 2/3/99 5:09:23 PM Pacific Standard Time, WoodStck45 aol.com
writes:


Got a 1991 Ford F-250 Reg. Cab, XLT lariat. it has tilt steering with cruise.
The problem is that the you can move the steering wheel up and down. it is
looser than a goose. i think it wobles right where it the that locks on to
the column that keeps it from tilting. Do you guys know how to take it apart
to tighen it up? Do you pull back the steering wheel cover where the Ford
symbol is to take it all apart? or do you get under the dash and loosen some
bolts on some cover or something?

Thanks
Paul >>
Probally the bearings... the wheel can move every which way right? You can
get another column, have Ford rebuild it, or rebuild it yourself. If you are
not mechanically inclined, I would recomend just getting another column. I
know there are people on the list who have had theirs rebuilt by Ford and the
problem comes back. Let me know what you are going to do and I'll help you
out the best I can.

Joe
Lost in Jersey
92 F-150
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Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 18:50:32 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Traction bar pics, Attn: Dana, Sam

Hey gang,
Some of you wanted to see some pics of the traction bars my buddy made
for his F-250. Sorry it took so long, I finally got everything to come
together. I just put the page up, I have no links to it off my main
page, it's all by itself. The pics were taken by another buddy w/a
digital camera, but aren't really that great considering that. I don't
have much more info than what's on the page, but e-mail me directly if
you have some questions, I'll see what I can do.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ncweb.com/~runawaykid/truck.html

Later,
Brew
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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 20:13:58 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Fuel Tank Problem

John,
Well all I have to say is that the SVO catalog has the fuel pumps in all LPH
measurements for around $100 up. It is not a difficult procedure to change the
pumps as long as you have some good tools and some good friends to help you
get the bed off. Then its all cake. I'm sorry to say there is no core charge
for used or bad pumps but I can say learn from the troubles (and the prices) ,
buy a manual, and learn to do it yourself. There is not many things on these
trucks that you cant do. I know I have done it. And besides, which is cheaper
parts and some pizzas and beer or paying someone else $25 and up per hour as
far as the BOOK goes. It may only take them 2 hours to do it but if the book
says 6 hours, they charge 6 hours.
Just my Abe coins,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Flareside Page


In a message dated 2/4/99 8:45:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, jdev mitre.org
writes:


fuel
pumps -- the check valves were bad in both pumps (fuel pumps are
expensive).
I asked if I could convert the truck from a dual tank to single tank so
that I would only have to maintain one tank and pump. The dealer told me

That it would cost they same to fix both tanks as it would to convert to
a single
tank. Has anyone converted over from dual tanks to a single tank?
If so, is it difficult.
I decided to listen to the dealer and had them replace both fuel pumps.
The truck is running fine, but it was an expensive repair ~$700 for
parts and labor. >>
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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 19:56:50 -0600
From: "bikerdan"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 7.3L Diesel

- ----- Original Message -----
From: David Butts
To:
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 1999 12:49 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 7.3L Diesel


>I noticed Peterson's 4W had a "small" article about a U.S. Gear chip for
the
>7.3L PS Diesel. Has anyone seen this product? How much? Does it work?
>Where can you get it?
>
>Just wondering, I have heard from many sources that Ford de-tuned the 7.3L
>PSD from IH's specifications. This article says you can get an ~ extra 100
>foot/pounds of torque at 2000 RPM from the chip upgrade.
>

suggestion. try giving Hypermax a call. All they do is Ford Diesels, they
are good to hear me tell it. I had them install one of thier turbos on my 93
F-450
and am super happy. These folks are PROFESSIONAL...
nuff said
no I do not work for them, I jusy happily used them for my truck
Dan Fischer
'93 F-450 7.3 idi 184' wb towing machine with sleeper cab

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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 21:32:21 EST
From: RQTHOMSON aol.com
Subject: Re: Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Engine?

I have an 83 300 & I can clean the engine at a car-wash & do nothing but start
it & drive away. I agree get a new mechanic.
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Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 20:24:43 -0800
From: Erston Reisch
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E4OD, Need a Transmission Shop [WA State]

List,

I had my '90 F-150 (300ci, E4OD, 2WD) in a shop today to check out a check
engine light that had been lighting occasionally.

The mechanic drove it, and thinks that it's shifting straight from 2nd gear
into OD, bypassing third. This being my first truck, and my first auto in a
long time, I just thought it was the recently discussed torque converter
lockup in fourth gear making it feel so "sluggish".

They scoped the truck, and the codes returned were saying that the 3rd gear
solenoid was not functioning properly. They didn't elaborate, and told me to
take it to a transmission specialist for proper diagnosis and repair. If they
hadn't road tested it twice and cleaned out the EGR (another code), I'd feel
like I wasted my $50.

My plan now is to get a code reader (like I said I would) and read the codes
myself, getting the numbers and knowing exactly what the computer is reporting
is the problem. I'm also going to have to learn more about the E4OD, so I
know what I'm talking about with the shop. :)

Anyway, my request: Anyone have a recommendation for a transmission repair
shop in the Seattle or Everett areas? I could try my local dealer, but I'd
rather go with an independent shop that someone has used before.

Thanks in Advance,

- - Erston



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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 20:31:09 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E4OD, Need a Transmission Shop [WA State]

I am taking my Bronco into Trans-Service in Lynnwood on tuesday to get my
AOD rebuilt. The guy who runs this shop is really good with Ford trannys.
He rebuilt the E40D in the F250 owned by a friend of my dad's, he also built
two C-6 for this guys son. My friend had the 727 in his dodge Charger
rebuilt here, and another friend had him rebuild the C-4 in his Mustang.
Everyone I know who has gone here has been very happy with his work and the
prices are competitive.
I'll find the address and phone number if you wnat.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Erston Reisch
To: 80-96 Ford Truck List
Date: Friday, February 05, 1999 4:22 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E4OD, Need a Transmission Shop [WA State]


>List,
>
>I had my '90 F-150 (300ci, E4OD, 2WD) in a shop today to check out a check
>engine light that had been lighting occasionally.
>
>The mechanic drove it, and thinks that it's shifting straight from 2nd gear
>into OD, bypassing third. This being my first truck, and my first auto in
a
>long time, I just thought it was the recently discussed torque converter
>lockup in fourth gear making it feel so "sluggish".
>
>They scoped the truck, and the codes returned were saying that the 3rd gear
>solenoid was not functioning properly. They didn't elaborate, and told me
to
>take it to a transmission specialist for proper diagnosis and repair. If
they
>hadn't road tested it twice and cleaned out the EGR (another code), I'd
feel
>like I wasted my $50.
>
>My plan now is to get a code reader (like I said I would) and read the
codes
>myself, getting the numbers and knowing exactly what the computer is
reporting
>is the problem. I'm also going to have to learn more about the E4OD, so I
>know what I'm talking about with the shop. :)
>
>Anyway, my request: Anyone have a recommendation for a transmission repair
>shop in the Seattle or Everett areas? I could try my local dealer, but I'd
>rather go with an independent shop that someone has used before.
>
>Thanks in Advance,
>
>- Erston
>
>
>
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