80-96-list-digest Monday, February 1 1999 Volume 03 : Number 028



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - New (To Me) Truck, Minor Problems
FTE 80-96 - Re: sucker for differential
FTE 80-96 - Fast idle on cold starts
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-list- New engine start-up
Re: FTE 80-96 - Caliper pistons
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fast idle on cold starts
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead Truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: stupid bell?
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: stupid bell?
FTE 80-96 - 460
Re: FTE 80-96 - 351W Serpantine Belt
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fast idle on cold starts
Re: FTE 80-96 - my f150
FTE 80-96 - RE: starting fluid
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates
FTE 80-96 - Transmission Codes
FTE 80-96 - headers and exhaust system recommendations
Re: FTE 80-96 - headers and exhaust system recommendations
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fast idle on cold starts
FTE 80-96 - Re: 5-speed trans
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rim Difference?
Re: FTE 80-96 - does this make any sense?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-list- New engine start-up

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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 07:53:26 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New (To Me) Truck, Minor Problems

My '87 F-350 diesel has the exact same problem, and when both tanks are
full, the gauge is pinned all the way to the right, way past the "F" mark.
Because of the behavior on both tanks, I have to think the problem is either
in the dashboard or in the wiring, not the tank senders. I would also
appreciate an answer.

Mike

Vogt Family wrote:

> Well, I finally went and got a "shiny" truck. It is an '86 F-250
> diesel. It has dual tanks but I don't think the fuel gauge is working
> quite right. It seems to have a tendencey to wander when full. It goes
> from 1/2 to 3/4 mark, from 1/2 to 1/4, etc. Seems mostly related to
> hill angle so I'm not too worried about that. However, when driving
> home today I waited until the needle got below the E line before fueling
> and the tank (rear) took only 9 gallons. I haven't had the chance to
> run the front down yet so I don't know about it. Also, the gauge
> position seems somewhat relative to temperature. Is there a known
> problem or am I going to have to diagnose it further?
>
> Birken

- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 09:30:59 -0500
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: sucker for differential

>now, im going to finish the flushing by changing out the gear/hyped oil.
>I have a small hand pump that looks like a bicycle tire pump, I know it
>will work fine, but is there a faster way?
>I have a compressor, is there a homemade sucker I can make?
>any ideas?
- - --






I can get to the rear dff OK, my question is mostly for the front diff.
the third crossmember prevents total take down and cleanout.
the gear/hypoid oil bubbles when driven for awhile, im sure this is normal,
but sucking this bubbly oil with a tire pump? I guess ill just have to
suck it up, and do the job when the truck is dead cold. and maybe ill stick
a magnet in the hole too, since I cant get to the cover plate.

mike
85 351W
C-6 4bbl
F-150 4X4


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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 10:28:13 EST
From: Jim3Bs2Ts aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fast idle on cold starts

I have a 1991 F150 with the 305 V8. On cold starts, it idles at almost
2000RPM for about a minute, then
drops to the normal 6-800RPM range. The dealer tells me this is normal and
harmless.
BUT, it bothers me a lot to have any cold engine idle this fast.
Any help, ideas and info would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim
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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 07:56:43 -0800 (PST)
From: rokkinhorse webtv.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-list- New engine start-up

Glad to hear it,Dennis:-) Good job;glad to know you found it before a
crisis!! So how's it running now? If you are interested,the small town
of LaCenter now has 3 casinos(two more being built),two cops and one
(sort of) grocery store.Houses are being built all over the
place,too.We've almost reached the 20th century here...:-)

Randy Goolsby 94 Bronco EB
351W 85 F-250 4x4 460

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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 11:22:08 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Caliper pistons

Sorry Rick for jumping in so late on this thread...
Stainless Steel is excellent when it comes to it's cooling properties. Lots of race
cars use stainless steel rotors because of this. Keep the s/s piston...

Later,
Brew

am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:

> Rick Buchanan writes: >>I had my truck at a brake shop this past weekend
> because of a stubborn
> squeak on one of the front wheels. There suggestion was to rebuild the
> calipers using Phenolic pistons rather than the Stainless Steel ones
> that are in it now. They said this would take away some of the heat
> which is causing the calipers to bind and not release the pads all the
> way from the rotors. Has or does anyone use Phenolic pistons in there
> calipers? Are they better? Or is the brake shop looking for an excuse
> to rebuild my calipers and charge me more money? And am I going to pay
> for this dearly down the road?

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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 11:29:31 EST
From: CphgnCwby1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fast idle on cold starts

Yes, that is very normal. I think that you meant a 302 instead of a 305. I
think this is kindof hard on the engine too, but you should be able to tap on
the gas after about 5 seconds and make it go to normal, curb, idle! Try that

HOPE THIS HELPS

BART
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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 11:44:21 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead Truck

Project truck, eh?
Having visions of 44" boggers, 12" suspension lift, Blown 460, 2 1/2 ton
military axles... and so on.... :-) H*ll, then you could just walk under
it to change that frisky starter...LOL!!! (laughing out loud, for you
non-chat room guys)

Later,
Brew

Casey R. Vandor wrote:

> I appreciate all the support, and I hae to give up on the thing for now,
> but it is just running me broke to try and keep it running. I can't
> keep a job becasue this thing dies on me so much and can't get to work
> on time. I need something that will start when I turn the key, whether
> thats at 1:00 in the afternoon or 1:00 in the morning, -40 below or 80
> degrees out. This truck is just not dependable. I am not writing ford
> out of my books, but this is going to have to become a project ford
> rather than my daily driver.
>
> Thanks,
> Casey
>
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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 11:48:09 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: stupid bell?

Trenton (here's another late reply, sorry, you miss alot in a week here anymore)

If you just want to get rid of the 'stupid bell', get under your dash while it's
'dinging'. I removed mine long ago (one of the first 'mods', I do on new
vehicles, hehe). On my '87 it was a large gray box that I just removed. It has
clips on the sides so be sure to do it right, but no more 'ding'. I've had the
truck three years and have only left the lights on once and it still started
anyway.

Later,
Brew

Posluszny, Walt (POSL) wrote:

> Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:38:56 -0500 (EST)
> From: Speed Racer
> >
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - New to the list.
> [snip]
> 2. You know that stupid bell that goes off when you open your
> door with the headlights on? My rings whenever the doors is open. Anytime.
> Any idea where I could find the source of the problem?[snip]
> Trenton Munsell
>
> Trenton...this sounds like a ign. key switch going out. After
> truning off you ign. Wiggle the key a bit and see if you can get the chime
> to stop ringing that "stupid bell".
>
> Walt
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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 11:57:16 -0500
From: "Christopher Maher"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: stupid bell?

I disconnected mine as well after it would start "dinging" while I was
driving down the road. I wasn't even gonna try to solve that mystery.

Christopher T. Maher
- -----Original Message-----
From: Randy
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: January 31, 1999 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: stupid bell?


>Trenton (here's another late reply, sorry, you miss alot in a week here
anymore)
>
>If you just want to get rid of the 'stupid bell', get under your dash while
it's
>'dinging'. I removed mine long ago (one of the first 'mods', I do on new
>vehicles, hehe). On my '87 it was a large gray box that I just removed.
It has
>clips on the sides so be sure to do it right, but no more 'ding'. I've had
the
>truck three years and have only left the lights on once and it still
started
>anyway.
>
>Later,
>Brew
>
>Posluszny, Walt (POSL) wrote:
>
>> Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:38:56 -0500 (EST)
>> From: Speed Racer
>> >
>> Subject: FTE 80-96 - New to the list.
>> [snip]
>> 2. You know that stupid bell that goes off when you open
your
>> door with the headlights on? My rings whenever the doors is open.
Anytime.
>> Any idea where I could find the source of the problem?[snip]
>> Trenton Munsell
>>
>> Trenton...this sounds like a ign. key switch going out. After
>> truning off you ign. Wiggle the key a bit and see if you can get the
chime
>> to stop ringing that "stupid bell".
>>
>> Walt
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>
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>

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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 13:03:17 EST
From: Metalsped aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 460

I own a '89 460 w/ 154,000 miles on it. It is on its last leg. I don't really
want to rebuild it, so does anyone know where I can get a new 460 from. I
don't want a remanufactured one. Thanks

Metalsped aol.com
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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 13:12:53 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 351W Serpantine Belt

Steve,
I'm not sure why the Performer wouln't bolt to the '82. Was it a two-barrel
to start? I would think the bolt pattern should be the same regardless, but
have no way to verify this. My Summit and Jeg's list that manifold w/a
cam, but doesn't list the years. I, too, have looked at the performer,
seems to be a good low-mid range manifold that doesn't give out before your
red line. You can get it with or w/o the EGR plate from what I've seen.
After working on my '87 351 H.O. 4bbl. I think the plate just comes off and
it's about an inch thick and has the mount for the EGR valve on the back and
three vacuum hose nipples (can I say that in here...hehe) on the front. I'm
pretty sure you'll have to do a little modification on your
accelerator/kick-down linkage mounts for that carb, or just about any
aftermarket carb in fact.

Later,
Brew

Steve Likness wrote:

> I've been reading a little about a serpantine belt system for the 351W.
> I have an '82 Ford that I'm converting from a 300 I6 to the 351W (I've
> mentioned this before) and now would be the ideal time to convert to a
> single belt. Does anyone have plans on how to do this? Where can I
> purchase parts?
>
> Also, I'm having a difficult time matching up the intake and carb (4
> bbl) to the 351W while still retaining the ability to pass vehicle
> inspection. I live in NC and I'm not sure what combo I can use. I
> looked at the Edelbrock Performer for the 84-86 351 along with a Holley
> street legal 600 cfm to match. I'm not sure why of if the manifold will
> bolt up and work on the '82. Any help out there? If you were to put
> together a good solid street/stock engine, what would you include?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
> ______________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 14:41:56 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fast idle on cold starts

Jim,
First of all, it better be a 302 or someone dropped a ch*vy motor in before
you bought it! =). Second of all, I have a '94 F150 and mine does that also.
It does this to basically bring the oil pressure up quickly so as to avoid
"MUCH" damage. I know it doesn't seem correct, but my truck has over 75k on it
and I'm sure it has done this for the last 25k.

In a message dated 1/31/99 10:33:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Jim3Bs2Ts aol.com writes:


2000RPM for about a minute, then
drops to the normal 6-800RPM range. The dealer tells me this is normal and
harmless.
BUT, it bothers me a lot to have any cold engine idle this fast.
Any help, ideas and info would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim >>
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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 15:07:59 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - my f150

Shane (sorry such a late response)

Don't worry about what your questions sound like, don't think you're
alone when it comes to mechanical/electrical ignorance on cars/trucks.
EVERYONE here knew nothing about them at one time and have learned.
Most of us before we got here from our own experiences. Many, like
yourself, have learned from this group and even those of us w/alot of
experience have learned a few things, thats why this group is so
diverse. Anyway, after that long-winded intro, I would suggest getting
yourself a manual for your truck. It will tell you where things like
the oxygen (O2) sensor is. You will get different opinions on which are
best, I have a Haynes for mine and it is good. If you plan on keeping
your truck and want to do alot and learn alot, maybe pick up a Helms.
They're costlier, but they're also the ones the shops use.

Later,
Brew

shane griffin wrote:
>
> ok, i'd like to start by saying i am a new member. i have been receiving
> this post for about a week now and i have to say that u guys seem to be
> some of the most helpful group of people i've ever saw before. no one
> goes away without some sort of response in an effort to help them. i am
> proud to have joined this posting.
>
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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 11:30:21 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: starting fluid

There is an alternative to starting fluid, and a little bit safer.
I took a camping propane bottle and a soldering torch-head, removed the
torch tip and stuck a piece of clear tubing on it. Now with the valve at
the bottle you can turn it on and off when needed. Use the tip of your hose
to isolate vacuum leaks. One word of warning, Don't check the distributor
vacuum advance at the dist. with this, trust me.

Tryin' to help
Bart-AK

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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 15:36:03 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates

FTE Web site updates:

- - Several new trucks added to the pictorial (over 370 trucks
now featured)

- - Links updated

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 15:02:01 -0600
From: "Chuck"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Transmission Codes

I've heard that there is a way to retrieve transmission
code via the check engine light on a '92 F150, any truth
to this? and how is it done?

Chuck
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ionet.net/~dtra

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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 19:11:25 -0700
From: "Brian Soderblom"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - headers and exhaust system recommendations

I got under my Bronco today to continue with the oil pan removal. As I
started removing the exhaust system to get to the *#$# !#^ oil pan, I
noticed that it's in pretty bad condition - some spots that appear to have
rusted through and been patched, etc. So, I'm in the market for a
replacement exhaust system. I figure I'll go ahead and get a pair of
headers as well, while I'm at it anyway.

I have an '89, 351W, C-6. The current system (looking at it from
underneath, from the front of the truck) has a tube that comes down and
across from the right, joins the left side in a Y, goes through a cat,
muffler, and out. There is a hose attached to I think the cat or the Y
(have to doublecheck) and a sensor (O2?) in a small tube joining the two
pipes right before the Y.

I need some recommendations for headers to tailpipe, and I need to keep it
reasonably cheap - no Borla stainless. Most importantly, it needs to pass
emissions. I've got a catalog from Summit and there are some possibilities
in there, but they're not real clear on whether any particular part will
work on my truck, and whether it will keep me legal.

So give me some ideas. :)

Brian

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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 22:23:33 -0500
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - headers and exhaust system recommendations

It depends on how far you want to go. But a fairly easy legal way to go is
install equal length shorty headers a cat-back exhaust system, and keep your
wye pipe and HEGO sensor. There are several manufactures for these systems.
I've used MAC headers and Walker DynoMax cat back systems a couple of time
and had good results. But I've seen many others and they seem to work just
as well. They last a lot longer than headers from "the good 'ol days" and
they come with C.A.R.B. numbers.

Matt


- -----Original Message-----
From: Brian Soderblom
To: 80-96-List
Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 9:18 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - headers and exhaust system recommendations


>I need some recommendations for headers to tailpipe, and I need to keep it
>reasonably cheap - no Borla stainless. Most importantly, it needs to pass
>emissions. I've got a catalog from Summit and there are some possibilities
>in there, but they're not real clear on whether any particular part will
>work on my truck, and whether it will keep me legal.
>
>So give me some ideas. :)
>
>Brian
>
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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 20:19:49 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fast idle on cold starts

Your problem is you have a 305 which is a Chev. engine...just kidding.
Anyway 2000 rpm is a bit on the high side for cold idle. I would try giving
the Idle-Air bypass valve a good cleaning and see if the problem persists.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim3Bs2Ts aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 3:31 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fast idle on cold starts


>
>I have a 1991 F150 with the 305 V8. On cold starts, it idles at almost
>2000RPM for about a minute, then
>drops to the normal 6-800RPM range. The dealer tells me this is normal and
>harmless.
>BUT, it bothers me a lot to have any cold engine idle this fast.
>Any help, ideas and info would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim
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>

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Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 22:51:01 -0800
From: William Zellmann
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 5-speed trans

You might contact Advance Adapters (www.advanceadapters.com/) or phone
them at 800-350-2223. They favor the New Process 4500 5-speed, as found
in '92 up Dodge and Chevy trucks. They claim it's the best 5-speed truck
trans around, and they have kits to adapt it to any Ford engine you can
think of--in fact, they have new and rebuilt ones available, if you
can't find one locally. New ones run about $1600, and the adapter to the
Ford engine is listed at $262. A LOT better than $2268, and you won't
get anyone telling you the tranny is ill-designed!

Bill zellmann
Searcy, Arkansas
'82 F-100

80-96-list-digest wrote:

> Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 23:28:29 -0600
> From: GTH
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - ZF 5-speed update
>
> OK 4X4 Specialties in New Orleans finally found a rebuilt ZF for my 89
> (2wd). With a year warranty (from Ford), new clutch and resurfacing the
> flywheel it will take $2268.00 from my pocket (this is up from 1873.00
> for the 88's in 1997). I spoke with the parts department of LaMarque
> Ford (who managed to locate it), they said that these were ill designed,
> and that there was little anyone could do to prevent their failure
> (except say have it rebuilt even when everything was going OK)..it took
> 5 days to find this one. Problem with locating them???? I was told: 1.
> there are several different case designs (??) 2. when they
> "self-destruct" they become un-rebuildable (Several parts houses/trans
> shops told me this).
>
> All you lucky automatic owners can now smile (this is within dollars of
> the 8/98 rebuild on a 90 EOD4 that a friend owns).....but as the Ford
> guy said...."hey it is the same company that builds transmissions for
> Porsche, Mercedes and the Corvette".
>
> George Hester
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of 80-96-list-digest V3 #27
> *******************************
>
> +---- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 through 1996 Trucks And Vans -----+
> | Send posts to 80-96-list ford-trucks.com, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 00:26:39 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rim Difference?

Paul,
Sounds like a difference in the backspacing. Assuming you have the same
size tires on all four and they look to be exaclty the same width. It
might be a good idea to measure them. The backspacing is taking where
the wheel sits against the drum (or hub on front) and measured to the
back of the wheel lip. Even if you have the same width of rim, say 7",
the backspacing can be different. Maybe a 3" or a 4" backspacing. THis
is what I suspect is the problem. You'll have to remove the tires to
measure this. It's possible that a different year truck could have a
different factory backspacing because of brake caliper size or spindle
size or whatever. Seems to me I recently saw an add in the paper here
for some stock steel Ford rims, but don't know the size or lug-pattern.
If you can't find any at the boneyard, e-mail me directly and I'll see
what I can do for ya.

Later,
Brew

WoodStck45 aol.com wrote:
>
> Dear fellow Ford enthusiasts,
>
> I have a 1991 Ford F-250 H.D. XLT Lariat pickup, 4x4, lockouts. I noticed
> when i bought the truck that three of the rims were the same and 1 was
> different. (looks like its off of an older ford maybe 85 or so.) There are
> two ways to tell the difference: 1.) the 3 rims that are the same are gray,
> and the odd ball is tanish brown. 2.) when the odd ball rim is on the front
> it makes the lockout hub stick about an inch out of the hubcab, but when the
> regular gray rim is on, the lockout hub matches up flush with the hubcap. I
> see trucks that are like mine with the hubs matching up flush with the hub
> caps and some that don't, what does this mean? Are the rims different on a XL
> than an XLT LARIAT? I need to find a rim that are like the other three that I
> have. Can i get one at the junkyard?
> Any comments, suggestions or answers will be appreciated
>
> Thanks
> Paul
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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 00:32:05 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - does this make any sense?

Shane,
You'll soon find that those types of simple solutions are usually the
LAST one that you try. I mean as far as the truck running better and
getting better gas mileage w/just a re-torque of some plugs. It's
possible your O2 sensor is now toast and may need replacing causing the
constant light. You'll also note that those rare occasions when you
find a simple solution immediately are far and few between and feel
awesome, baby! So don't let the light get you down too much, you made a
pretty good discovery on the plugs, so savor the moment.

Later,
Brew

shane griffin wrote:
>
> as you may have seen me post before, my '91 f150 has a check engine
> light come on at times. or at least that used to be the case. the other
> day while just looking around under hood , i fiddled with #2 plug wire.
> it felt like plug was loose, and it was. i crawled up there and
> tightened it and inspected yhe rest. turns out 5 were loose!! so i
> promptly tightened all 5 and started my truck. man it sounded sooo much
> better! as i climbed in to go for a drive i noticed light wason. so i
> killed it and restarted it. backed up my drive and went to take off and
> it came on again. to make a long story short it stays on now! why would
> this happen? the gas milage went way up so it couldn'thave been the
> totaly wrong thing to do. any ideas fellqas? i'm stumped, not that is a
> big surprise. thanks in advance for responses. you guys are great.
>
> shane
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 21:35:15 -0800
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96-list- New engine start-up

The rebuild turned into a truely interesting store.

Since I figured I could rebuild a 351W for cheaper and better than any
professional (giggle), I dived right in. The deeper I went into it, the
more I was groaning and the flatter my wallet got.

It had been leaking oil but I saw no signs of it burning a whole lot. The
pollution control stuff must have been doing a great job because once I got
inside, I discovered 6 cylinders with broken rings. I ended up having to go
40 over to get a clean bore.

I ended up grinding the crank, putting in new pistons, a Crane cam for a
little more low end torque/mid-range horsepower, roller timing gears/chain,
high-volume oil pump, new water pump, and a bunch of valves. By the time I
got done, the only orginal parts I had left were 8 exhaust valves and the
bolts that hold the thing together.

Since I had rebuilt the 4-barrel carb, along with all the engine work, I had
some real concerns about it firing up. Especially since this was my first
attempt at figuring out the pollution control routing nightmare.

I made sure the battery was charged up and prefilled the carb float bowls.
After pouring a couple of spoonfulls of gas down the carb and installing the
air cleaner, I turned the key. It turned over a couple of times and fired
right up. After a 30 minute run-in, I retorque things. Then I put a 100
miles on the engine and changed the oil. Another 1000 miles and I'll change
the oil again.

It's a daily driver and I'm proud as a peacock. I did all the wrench work
myself. While true this isn't my first rebuild, it was the first time I
attempted a modern version with the pollution control equipment.

My father was factory worker with a 6th grade education. In his days, the
boys were expected to be working the farm after they graduated for the 6th
grade. While not an educated man, I use to marvel how he could make things
work. He taught me a very important point. If some man can build it from
scratch, I can certainly take it apart and put it back together.

Dennis
1986 Ford F250 4X4

- -----Original Message-----....


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