80-96-list-digest Saturday, January 30 1999 Volume 03 : Number 026



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - E4OD Update on Classaction
FTE 80-96 - E4OD Classaction UPDATE
FTE 80-96 - Hello
Re: FTE 80-96 - does this make any sense?
Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W
Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W
FTE 80-96 - starting fluid
Re: FTE 80-96 - starting fluid
RE: FTE 80-96 - starting fluid
Re: FTE 80-96 - Shifting question
Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W
FTE 80-96 - Re: TC refill
FTE 80-96 - Torque wrench
FTE 80-96 - sucker for differential
FTE 80-96 - Re: Deep Freeze
FTE 80-96 - compression check info needed
Re: FTE 80-96 - Torque wrench
FTE 80-96 - My Dads 87 Ranger is hard to start!
Re: FTE 80-96 - My Dads 87 Ranger is hard to start!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting fluid
FTE 80-96 - Brakes Shudder
RE: FTE 80-96 - Brakes Shudder

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 07:46:25 EST
From: Dhawk21 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E4OD Update on Classaction

The next hurdle is Feb.2 when we know something regarding classaction that is
regarding the E4OD automatic transmission.
After having 7 transmissions in our 1994 ford F-350 crewcab dually and hearing
from many other ford owners on the repairs they have made and paid for maybe
something will get resolved on this transmsission. You can contact us:
DHawk21 aol.com an let us know what your experiences have been with this
particular E4OD transmission. Thanks for everything we have seen on this
website.
Dennis and Barbara Harris
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:02:22 EST
From: Dhawk21 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E4OD Classaction UPDATE

Hello,
Hopefully another hurdle will be on 2-2-99 and we can proceed with
classaction regarding the E4OD automatic transmission. After having 7
transmissions repaired and replaced since 1994 in our F-350 crewcab dually
someone can come up with resolution. This situation is for no one to be in
because I know most owners looking to buy a used F-350 crewcab dually to pull
there horses, camper,race car or boat and I am sure it has happened to many,
who buy a nice looking pickup NOT knowing the history behind it. Honestly the
only way to get rid of a vehicle like that is to trade it in to dealer {not
that they should end up with vehicle like that} to let them put it on there
lot or wholesale it out to some small independent dealer. There are some
people who wouldnt care to say to buyer that this vehicle has been taken care
of and it is good vehicle when they knew all along that while they owned it
there was 5,6, even 7 transmissions since they purchased it new.
Would like others to contact us: DHawk21 aol.com
and tell me what kind of luck {good or bad} with your E4OD transmission.
thanks hawk
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 07:57:15 -0600
From: Roy Houston
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hello

Hi all.

New here, name's Roy. I'm currently restoring a 85 F-150 SuperCab. Real
nice machine, body and paint are already in great condition (thanks to Ford
paint re-call a few years ago). I'm just finishing up rebuilding the 351W.
Not much in the way of hop-up this time around, but who says I can't pull
the motor again later? We're doing some work on the interior too. Changing
color from dark red to black, new seat cover, etc. Hope to post it to the
web page before long. Well just wanted to say Hi.

Later,
Roy
Roy Houston
85 F-150 SuperCab 351W
houston1 slb.com
houzoodad aol.com
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:39:10 EST
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - does this make any sense?

shane,

Try disconecitng your battery for a few minutes. It should reset your
computer.
if that doesn't work you may have to take it in to the dealer and have them
check it
out.

brian
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:43:52 -0600
From: "Bart Ogden"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W

It doesn't work on a 92 E4OD. I've already talked to them about it.

Bart


- -----Original Message-----
From: Speed Racer
To: Ford F-150 Mailing list
Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 5:17 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W


>For all of you poor souls out there with automatic transmissions, B&M
>makes an electronic shift enhancer that cost about 40 bucks. You can find
>it in Summit.
>
>Trenton Munsell
>Oakland University-- Mechanical Engineering
>1998-99 SAE President
>1998-99 FSAE Team Leader
> Brakes are a sign of weakness.....
> ..... When in doubt-- GAS IT!!!!!
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:36:37 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W

Radoje Spasojevic wrote:
>
> An important thing to check when shopping for a shift it is whether it has
> provision for releasing the band for the gear you are shifting out of as
> fast as it applies the band for the gear you are shifting into. Some cheap
> shift kits will apply the band faster but no nothing to release the band for
> the previous gear any faster. As a result you get binding while the two
> bands overlap.

This is how must kits make your tires chirp and give shift kits bad
names for destroying shift kits
Chris
94 Lightning #381
NLOC #238
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:21:01 -0500
From: Mark_Halpain ingerrand.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - starting fluid

I want to apologize to the group for posting a suggestion that might
have caused personal injury. That was far from my intentions. The
subject still stands about checking a throttle body gasket to see if
it needs to be replaced.

Mark Halpain


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:34:05 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - starting fluid

You can use WD-40, CRC 5-56, or similar, in very light squirts to get the
same effect without causing any damage. That is what we use on the gasoline
tractors to find intake system leaks. You get a brief change in speed or a
little smoke, depending on which fluid and what the propellant is (WD-40
used to use propane, but now have gone over to something non-flammable).

Mike

Mark_Halpain ingerrand.com wrote:

> I want to apologize to the group for posting a suggestion that might
> have caused personal injury. That was far from my intentions. The
> subject still stands about checking a throttle body gasket to see if
> it needs to be replaced.
>
> Mark Halpain
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)



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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:47:36 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - starting fluid

Don't worry about it Mark, no need to apologize.

I too sometimes forget there are kids on this list, like mine, who never
owned a car or truck before and you have to tell them to use common sense
when they have a can in their hands that says "CAUTION: FLAMMABLE" all over
it.

I have done this for years to check for vacuum leaks and so have all the
mechanics. Most starting fluids these days say right on them if they are
made for the fuel injectors or not. You can't be responsible for
inexperienced children who don't read anything they use and have no business
around a motor.

IMHO,
Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Mark_Halpain ingerrand.com [SMTP:Mark_Halpain ingerrand.com]
> Sent:Friday, January 29, 1999 7:21 AM
> To:80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - starting fluid
>
>
>
>
> I want to apologize to the group for posting a suggestion that might
> have caused personal injury. That was far from my intentions. The
> subject still stands about checking a throttle body gasket to see if
> it needs to be replaced.
>
> Mark Halpain
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:02:14 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Shifting question

There is a wide ratio upgrade kit for the AOD, that includes a gearset that
will give you lower first and second gears. The gearset itself is actually
the same one from a AOD-EW so a good tranny mechanic might be able to get
just the gearset installed without the added cost of the whole kit. Overall
though it would probably be cheaper to just change the axle gears.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Harris, Scott
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 7:33 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Shifting question


>Please be patient while I get to the point.....
>I had my '85 302 FE overhauled a short time ago and bored it and had some
>mods put on. Mechanic built it the way I told him I wanted it, with good
>top-end speed. However it took away from the low end acceleration. I want
>to get better acceleration and wanted to know if it would be better to
>update the stock transmission or go with different gears in the rear. I do
>not know what gear ratio is in there now. I am not going to put a
>hi-performance transmission in it! I have a lot of pedal left on the top
>end so I don't think changing the rear end would affect the top-end speed.
>I don't want to spend that kind of dough. What do you recommend? If you
>are familiar with the AOD tranny you know that if you let it, it will shift
>into overdrive as low as 35-40 mph, so I usually keep it in just "drive"
>around town or until I hit around 60 on the highway. Is there a way, using
>the stock tranny, to broaden the range between gears?
>
>Any opinions?
>
>Thanks
>Scott Harris
>1985 F150 SuperCab
>sharris dfwairport.com
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:13:13 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W

Which is exactly why I am nervous about buying a $30 shift kit from the
local parts place.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Garr&Pam
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W


>Radoje Spasojevic wrote:
>>
>> An important thing to check when shopping for a shift it is whether it
has
>> provision for releasing the band for the gear you are shifting out of as
>> fast as it applies the band for the gear you are shifting into. Some
cheap
>> shift kits will apply the band faster but no nothing to release the band
for
>> the previous gear any faster. As a result you get binding while the two
>> bands overlap.
>
>This is how must kits make your tires chirp and give shift kits bad
>names for destroying shift kits
>Chris
>94 Lightning #381
>NLOC #238
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:10:38 -0800
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: TC refill

On Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:02:08 -0500, am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:
>
> Mike baker writes : >>what's the best way to fill the converter back up?
>
> The only way is through the dipstick tube. Fill the tranny with 8 to 10 qts.
> Start it up and slowly (with foot on brake) run the selector through all the
> gears with engine at idle. Check fluid whatever the instructions are on the
> dipstick(hot idleing in park I believe for C-6). (Doesn't have to be hot for
> this preliminary check) Cut engine and start refilling at 2 quarts per try and
> repeat cycle until you reach about 1 quart low while cold.(maybe 1/2 quart).
> The front pump in the tranny is the only source for filling the TC. Run vehicle
> to get fully warmed up and recheck/add as necessary to bring level to full mark.

I would disagree with this, Azie. As soon as the pump is running
(engine started) it is filling the torque convertor. My procedure is to
fill the pan, start the engine, then add the remaining fluid as fast as
it will go down the tube. Once this is done then I go about running it
through the gears and all.

At school we have a tranny dyno, and when we put the tranny on there, we
just immediately pump it full of fluid till it runs over, since it at
that point has no dipstick tube or TV linkage cover. Then after running
it through the gears once or twice, add a little more. But I wouldn't
go running it through the gears before I had made up the fluid that
fills the torque convertor.

Just a little nit-pick, is all.

Birken
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 13:01:56 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Torque wrench

Steve Spaulding writes: >>There is a crush sleeve that is used to set the
preload. When
you remove the nut with the torque wrench, you can note the amount of
torque required to remove it, and retighten it to the same point (I
forget the procedure).

I'm not in the least bit familiar with the 8.8" rear, but surely the pinion nut
does not torque in inch pounds. I seem to remember the 9" rear pinion nut being
somewhere above 200'#!!!! Maybe inch pounds for turning the pinion to set the
preload. I don't know.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 15:34:05 -0500
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - sucker for differential

hey all, thanks for the tips on changing the tranny fluid out of the torque
converter. ill get to it sat. but I did change out the fluid in the
transfer case, the fluid looked burnt, just like the tranny.

now, im going to finish the flushing by changing out the gear/hypoid oil.
I have a small hand pump that looks like a bicycle tire pump, I know it
will work fine, but is there a faster way?
I have a compressor, is there a homemade sucker I can make?
any ideas?

thanks
mike

1985 351 4x4

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 12:13:34 -0900
From: "Casey R. Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Deep Freeze

At the school it is only about -40 but out towards Ester (meetings
trainings for the FD out there), it is hitting -50 -55. This weekend is
supposed to get way down on the mercury, but we are getting some nice
cloud cover so it probably won't be too bad.

Casey
>>
How cold is it up there, casey? From the TV, it sounds like you are in
the deep freeze -----.

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:13:35 -0500
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - compression check info needed

I have a 1985 351 4bbl. and
im in need of some numbers to check against , when I do a compression check.
what are the good readings dry, and wet?
what readings should I see when dry Vs wet.
there is no problems with the engine that I know of, and the vacuum
readings I got when I tuned the remanufactured carb by manifold vacuum were
excellent..
but I would still like to know that all is well on the top end anyway.

thanks
mike
pmbaker your-net.com

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:50:18 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Torque wrench

Yes, a little brain fog came through there. You turn the assembly with
the in-lb torque wrench to determine the drag. Then you tighten the
nut, take a reading, tighten, read, etc. until you either sneak up on
the specification or the old reading, whichever is higher. The spec for
the pinion nut is 160 ft-lb minimum.

Steve

am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:
>
> Steve Spaulding writes: >>There is a crush sleeve that is used to set the
> preload. When
> you remove the nut with the torque wrench, you can note the amount of
> torque required to remove it, and retighten it to the same point (I
> forget the procedure).
>
> I'm not in the least bit familiar with the 8.8" rear, but surely the pinion nut
> does not torque in inch pounds. I seem to remember the 9" rear pinion nut being
> somewhere above 200'#!!!! Maybe inch pounds for turning the pinion to set the
> preload. I don't know.
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.
>
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 15:39:48 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - My Dads 87 Ranger is hard to start!

I don't mean it won't turn over, I mean it takes some cranking, and often
when it does start, it seems way rich.

Haynes manual codes, I didn't do the KOER test right, but KOEO says code
33, something about not sensing EGR opening. That is pretty ambiguous, at
BEST!!!
Does it need an EGR valve, an EGR sensor, or what? And is that enough to
cause the starting trouble?

I hate being a mechanic...it was FUN back when Carbs and distriboters were
it!!!

Dave H.

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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 00:08:58 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - My Dads 87 Ranger is hard to start!

Hey, I had the same code come up on my 89 e-250 6 cyl van. I replaced the evp
sensor, you can test it first. check your vacuum line and make sure its not
split like mine was. check the valve clean it lubricate it to make sure its
opening and put on a new gasket. a defective egr will give you a hard
starting problem. good luck.

Joe
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 22:06:54 -0800
From: "Dennis R. Fischer"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting fluid

Let me bore you with a story about starting fluid.

I'm driving down the street in a MGB. The dual 6-volt batteries are
installed in a well, behind the driver's seat. At about 30 mph, a can of
starting fluid rolls into the well, shorting across the battery posts. A
1/2" hole is arced through the thin walls of the can. The starting fluid
(ether) ignites.

For 6 weeks, I go to the doc every other day and he debribes the burn.
Thats when they pull the dead skin away from the live nerve endings. After
6 weeks of this torture, the doc decides I'm ready to receive rehab surgery
so he has to come up with some skin to replace what I have lost. Thats when
he pulls out his device, best described as an electric planer. He uses it
to shave off the hide on my thigh. That skin is used to plug up the bare
spots on my back and arms.

You've probably heard morphine takes away the pain. Don't believe it.

With something as flammable as ether, one little mistake is all it takes. I
know I'll never own a can of starting fluid again.

- -----Original Message-----
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
To: 80-96-list Ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 6:51 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Starting fluid


>Mark Halpan writes: >>He said to be sure the gasket is bad start the truck
and
>spray
>starting fluid around the base of the throttle body. If the engine
>idle increases while spraying the starting fluid it's a sure sign the
>gasket is no good.
>
>I think this is a very bad recommendation for novices. Maybe for a full
fledged
>mechanic that has knowledge of the combustionability of starter fluids
(ether),
>but for a novice this could get him "Flamed" in a very real sense. Use an
oil
>and listen for the engine to slow down momentairily is a much better
approach
>than the starter fluid IMHO.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>
>
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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 03:12:16 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brakes Shudder

I feel a mild shudder when stopping my '86 F-150. If I apply more
brake pressure, I get more shudder. Checked the front/rear pads last
weekend and both had some (25%? of original) lining left. Was told by
someone that a shudder or "pulsing" when stopping is an indication of a
warped rotor. Is this the problem? If so, can the rotors be turned to
correct it or must they be replaced?
Thanks for any help.
Tom Gunby

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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 03:49:55 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Brakes Shudder

A brake shop should be able to check them to see if they have enough
thickness. If they will have enough after the turning they will put them
back on. If not, it's time for replacements.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Tom Gunby [SMTP:gunby mindspring.com]....


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