80-96-list-digest Friday, January 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 025



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Re: Power door solenoid
FTE 80-96 - RE: Old Diesel Truck
FTE 80-96 - does this make any sense?
Re: FTE 80-96 - V-6 firing order for Rangers
FTE 80-96 - F150 No-start
FTE 80-96 - Starting fluid
FTE 80-96 - TC refill
FTE 80-96 - C-6 Kit
Re: FTE 80-96 - does this make any sense?
FTE 80-96 - Power door solenoid
RE: FTE 80-96 - RE: Old Diesel Truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - does this make any sense?
RE: FTE 80-96 - does this make any sense?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting fluid
FTE 80-96 - Re:F-150 tranny and start problems
FTE 80-96 - Re: 83 F-150 will not start
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Old Diesel Truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 83 F-150 will not start
FTE 80-96 - Plug wire thing again...
RE: FTE 80-96 - RE: Old Diesel Truck
FTE 80-96 - Find the part in the junkyard
FTE 80-96 - Question about EEC-IV and aftermarket coils.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Question about EEC-IV and aftermarket coils.
FTE 80-96 - Rim Difference?
FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W
RE: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W
Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W
FTE 80-96 - Serpentine with an attitude
Re: FTE 80-96 - 8.8 Rearend
Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Calibration
Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W
RE: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W
FTE 80-96 - V-6 firing sequence
Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W
Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W
FTE 80-96 - Calif. 460
FTE 80-96 - RE:'80 I6 CARB
FTE 80-96 - Shifting question

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 06:46:44 -0500
From: Daniel Maxwell
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Power door solenoid

I bought an aftermarket set from Summit, VFP I think was the name for less
than 80 dollars, and replaced the right one, (pattern here?) in my 91 also.
This worked in the left side on my 91 F250 also. The pair was less than
$80.00, didnt take long either.
>
>Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 20:55:02 -0500
>From: Paul
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Power door solenoid
>
>The right door power lock "actuator" went bad on my 91 Bronco; a spot
>check of local auto parts stores told me this is a dealer-only
>part...dealer wants about $115 each! Shazaam! For a $30 part made in
>Mexico, no less!
>
>Anyone know of any sources! Also, 3 cars I am familiar with all have
>had ONLY the right side go bad...is this a conspiracy?
>
>Oh well,
>Paul G.
>Waynesboro, Va
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>


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 07:14:55 -0600
From: Bill Sample
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Old Diesel Truck

Birken,
Having just gone through this- there are a few things I might advise
checking. Depending on how many miles are on the chassis- you might
want to have the front end checked pretty carefully. I bought an 86-
lots of miles... front end seemed pretty loose and was able to tighten
up the steering gear a little, replace the radius arm bushings (parts
cheap but fair amount of work) and have it lined up.. seems much
better. There are two types of steering on the 250's.... mid 87 and
earlier require some bending to align.... post mid 87 need to have
camber adjusting gizmos installed at about 80.00 each. Have the front
end guy check for cracks in the frame rail where the cross member ties
in (common problem- can be welded fairly cheap).

On the engine try to determine if it has been rebuilt (#how many miles),
service records would be great but rather unlikely to find. Most
diesels will consume some oil....even if the PO tells you it consumes
little or no oil check these things. With engine running take of the
filler cap - if you see puffs of smoke coming out- that is not a good
sign. If the cap looks okay remove the air cleaner and fording tube-
start the engine and look for any quantity of smoke being sucked in the
intake. This is generally an indication of oil consumption. PO on mine
said it burned about 2 quarts between oil changes- my experience so far
indicates about 6- with no real visible signs out the tailpipe! If you
have access to a compression guage that goes to at least 300 psi- you
can check the compression throught the glow plug holes. Should be
fairly even around 250 or so with less than 15% variance between
cylinders. Injection pumps usually need to be rebuilt around 150k or so
and can run anywhere from $350-$1000..... problems here are indicated by
hard starting, excessive black smoke, poor fuel economy or a strong
diesel fuel smell.
Hope this helps-

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 07:54:50 -0600 (CST)
From: jsg76 webtv.net (shane griffin)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - does this make any sense?

as you may have seen me post before, my '91 f150 has a check engine
light come on at times. or at least that used to be the case. the other
day while just looking around under hood , i fiddled with #2 plug wire.
it felt like plug was loose, and it was. i crawled up there and
tightened it and inspected yhe rest. turns out 5 were loose!! so i
promptly tightened all 5 and started my truck. man it sounded sooo much
better! as i climbed in to go for a drive i noticed light wason. so i
killed it and restarted it. backed up my drive and went to take off and
it came on again. to make a long story short it stays on now! why would
this happen? the gas milage went way up so it couldn'thave been the
totaly wrong thing to do. any ideas fellqas? i'm stumped, not that is a
big surprise. thanks in advance for responses. you guys are great.

shane

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:28:11 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - V-6 firing order for Rangers

Russ Cominsky wrote:

> Can anyone tell me the firing order of the V-6 Ranger? Its a 1984. I cant seem to find it on the intke manifold.

Russ,
I just went out to the bronco and got my Haynes manual. Never
leave home withut it. :-) The firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6.
Your #1 cylinder is the passenger side front cylinder next to
the fan. Cylinders 2 and 3 are inline on that side then #4
cylinder is once again the front cylinder on the drivers side.
Then ofcourse 5 and 6 cylinders are inline behind that.

rear of engine
- -------
| 3 6 |
| 2 5 |
| 1 4 |
- -------
Front of engine

On the distributor you go in a counter clockwise position
from the #1 cylinder which is next to the cap clip. So go
couter-clockwise: 1-4-2-5-3-6

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:22:40 -0600
From: Roger Lane
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 No-start

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 22:27:09 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 83 F150 WILL NOT START!

You said you changed the ign. mod., this is what happened to me(85 F150 FE)
driving down the street, it just died. Ford said the module & coil were bad
and this worked to fix it. But a couple of months later it did it again and
it turned out to be bad connection on ign. mod. Is your rotor turning?
Backtracking fire from plugs to coil?

Just some thoughts

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Matthew Hayduk [SMTP:matt plusweb.net]
> Sent:Wednesday, January 27, 1999 1:05 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - 83 F150 WILL NOT START!
>
> HELP! My 83 will no fire up! I've changed the plugs, cap, rotor and
> ignition control module. Still NOTHING, not even a sputter, the motor
> turns over fine and just spins and spinds! :-( Any ideas!!!!!!!!!! I
> need my truck back up and running! :-(
>
> TIA
>
>
> Matthew Hayduk
> matt plusweb.net ICQ: 3680882 pager.mirabilis.com

Had the same problem on an 84 F150. A couple of things to check:
1. Is the rotor turning? If not, pull the dist. and check the roll pin that
holds the gear on.
2. If the rotor is turning, check the pick up under the rotor.

I had both of these problems within 2 weeks. First the pick-up went bad ($15
from local parts store), then the roll pin sheared off.

Roger Lane
Test/Support Analyst
(402)241-3570
Roger.Lane IBPINC.COM

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 09:42:48 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Starting fluid

Mark Halpan writes: >>He said to be sure the gasket is bad start the truck and
spray
starting fluid around the base of the throttle body. If the engine
idle increases while spraying the starting fluid it's a sure sign the
gasket is no good.

I think this is a very bad recommendation for novices. Maybe for a full fledged
mechanic that has knowledge of the combustionability of starter fluids (ether),
but for a novice this could get him "Flamed" in a very real sense. Use an oil
and listen for the engine to slow down momentairily is a much better approach
than the starter fluid IMHO.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:02:08 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - TC refill

Mike baker writes : >>what's the best way to fill the converter back up?

The only way is through the dipstick tube. Fill the tranny with 8 to 10 qts.
Start it up and slowly (with foot on brake) run the selector through all the
gears with engine at idle. Check fluid whatever the instructions are on the
dipstick(hot idleing in park I believe for C-6). (Doesn't have to be hot for
this preliminary check) Cut engine and start refilling at 2 quarts per try and
repeat cycle until you reach about 1 quart low while cold.(maybe 1/2 quart).
The front pump in the tranny is the only source for filling the TC. Run vehicle
to get fully warmed up and recheck/add as necessary to bring level to full mark.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:09:19 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - C-6 Kit

David Cole writes: >> and a rebuild kit ($100 or $135 for hi-po).


Try TransMart (800) 633-3340 (X229 for Lisa - X233 for Teresa). Probably half
that. I'm not affiliated in any way, but a very happy customer. They will open
you an account over the phone with a credit card and ship UPS same day to your
door.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:20:01 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - does this make any sense?

Shane,
I would run the codes and find out why it came on. Maybe while you fiddling
with the wires you knocked a sensor plug loose. It could be any number of
things. On these trucks all the parts work so close together that one little
change can really affect another part and throw a code. Check the codes and go
from there.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
Wayne's Flareside Page
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 07:39:15 PST
From: "Steve Likness"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Power door solenoid

=============================================
============================================

>Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 20:55:02 -0500
>From: Paul
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Power door solenoid

The right door power lock "actuator" went bad on my 91 Bronco; a spot
check of local auto parts stores told me this is a dealer-only
part...dealer wants about $115 each! Shazaam! For a $30 part made in
Mexico, no less!

Anyone know of any sources! Also, 3 cars I am familiar with all have
had ONLY the right side go bad...is this a conspiracy?

>Oh well,
>Paul G.
>Waynesboro, Va
==========================================================
==========================================================

JC Whitney is good or if you look into street rod supplies, they have
all kinds of universal door locks and power windows, etc. In my son's
recent mag there are ads from places like Rocky Hinge Co., Carolina
Custom, Summit Racing, or The Entry Experts; just to name a few

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 09:54:24 -0600
From: Ron Madurski
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - RE: Old Diesel Truck

I have an 85 and it is one tough truck. I use it for towing and daily
driving. The only thing I didn't like about it when I bought it is the
gearing. It is set up to run 55 and almost all of our highways are 65
or 75 around here. I fixed this by putting in an overdrive.

I've found that old diesels aren't that much different from old gas
engined trucks. Check wheel bearings (jack it up and wiggle the
wheels), the 4x4 system (try all of the gears, lock/unlock the hubs,
take it somewhere slippery and make sure it is working), brakes should
be checked, ...

>Birken,
>Having just gone through this- there are a few things I might advise
>checking. Depending on how many miles are on the chassis- you might
>want to have the front end checked pretty carefully. I bought an 86-
>lots of miles... front end seemed pretty loose and was able to tighten
>up the steering gear a little, replace the radius arm bushings (parts

He is looking for a 4x4 which will have leaf springs up front. In this
case the springs may be sagging excessively and the bushings may be worn
out.

>cheap but fair amount of work) and have it lined up.. seems much
>better. There are two types of steering on the 250's.... mid 87 and
>earlier require some bending to align.... post mid 87 need to have
>camber adjusting gizmos installed at about 80.00 each. Have the front
>end guy check for cracks in the frame rail where the cross member ties
>in (common problem- can be welded fairly cheap).
>
>On the engine try to determine if it has been rebuilt (#how many
miles),
>service records would be great but rather unlikely to find. Most
>diesels will consume some oil....even if the PO tells you it consumes
>little or no oil check these things. With engine running take of the

Or just leak it... Mine has 341K miles on it without a rebuild. It
uses, via leaks and just burning it up, about 1 quart/500 miles. It
used to be worse. The flywheel guard had been rubbing against the oil
pan and wore a hole through it. The PO used JB Weld or something like
it to plug the holes but it didn't work very well. I put a new oil pan
on it. With all of the miles it has on it the wear is really showing.
I get some oil dripping from the filler nose and the dipstick tube from
excess crankcase pressure.


>filler cap - if you see puffs of smoke coming out- that is not a good
>sign. If the cap looks okay remove the air cleaner and fording tube-
>start the engine and look for any quantity of smoke being sucked in the
>intake. This is generally an indication of oil consumption. PO on
mine

Mine doesn't do this... but it's still sounds like a good thing to
check.

>said it burned about 2 quarts between oil changes- my experience so far

>hard starting, excessive black smoke, poor fuel economy or a strong
>diesel fuel smell.

Check the fuel distribution system for leaks. These are easy to fix but
can make the truck idle rough and starting is very hard. You can see
little pools of diesel around the injectors that are leaking.

>Hope this helps-

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:56:58 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - does this make any sense?

Shane,

Just a recommendation, but you might want to check your spark plugs if
you haven't done so already. It won't have any effect on the "check engine"
light, but you may find that a couple of the plugs may be fouled from
running the engine without spark to them. Happened on a T-bird I had.
Replacing the fouled ones boosted performance and mileage, as expected.

- -Mike


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 09:33:25 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - does this make any sense?

I am wondering if the computer is not used to seeing a good spark and needs
to re-adjust the air/fuel mixture or something.

Reset the computer by removing the battery cable for a few minutes, long
shot but it might work.

If no luck there, check the codes like someone said and pull a plug to see
what it looks like also, easy enough to do might as well check them all.
There are a number of sending units, sensors, and connections to check if
you have no luck there.

Scott

Shane wrote:
> as you may have seen me post before, my '91 f150 has a check engine
> light come on at times. or at least that used to be the case. the other
> day while just looking around under hood , i fiddled with #2 plug wire.
> it felt like plug was loose, and it was. i crawled up there and
> tightened it and inspected yhe rest. turns out 5 were loose!! so i
> promptly tightened all 5 and started my truck. man it sounded sooo much
> better! as i climbed in to go for a drive i noticed light wason. so i
> killed it and restarted it. backed up my drive and went to take off and
> it came on again. to make a long story short it stays on now! why would
> this happen? the gas milage went way up so it couldn'thave been the
> totaly wrong thing to do. any ideas fellqas? i'm stumped, not that is a
> big surprise. thanks in advance for responses. you guys are great.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 09:40:45 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Starting fluid

Plus starting fluid is probably not good for the O2 sensor.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
To: 80-96-list Ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 2:52 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Starting fluid


>Mark Halpan writes: >>He said to be sure the gasket is bad start the truck
and
>spray
>starting fluid around the base of the throttle body. If the engine
>idle increases while spraying the starting fluid it's a sure sign the
>gasket is no good.
>
>I think this is a very bad recommendation for novices. Maybe for a full
fledged
>mechanic that has knowledge of the combustionability of starter fluids
(ether),
>but for a novice this could get him "Flamed" in a very real sense. Use an
oil
>and listen for the engine to slow down momentairily is a much better
approach
>than the starter fluid IMHO.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>
>
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:35:52 -0900
From: "Casey R. Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:F-150 tranny and start problems

Nuetral Safety switch? I am not sure where ford mounts them, the old
dodge 770a had it mounted on the linkage where it went in to the tranny
and was kinda messy to change.

Casey

>>>>
I've had a similar thing happen to me with my 86 f150. It seemed to
only do
it in cooler weather also. It used to scare the crap out of me. I could
go
in the store and come back 5 minutes later and nothing. I would just sit

there and keep turning the key until bam! It fired up. What I figured
out
was that if I turned the key to the ON position and then shifted it
through
the gears then put it back in PARK it would fire right up. Or I would
just
put it in NEUTRAL and it would fire up also. I think maybe it has
something
to do with the shift linkage or something not thinking it is in PARK. I
don't know. Hope this helps. If anything it's worth a shot trying.

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:41:28 -0900
From: "Casey R. Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 83 F-150 will not start

I hate to say this, but my truck (83 F-250 EEC III 2barrel VV carb....)
does the same thing about twice a month. Cold, warm, rain, dry.... I
have yet to figure it out, and now with it really fricking cold up here,
it will be a long while before I look at it again. The only thing that
works for me is to let it sit (really inconvenient since it is my only
mode of transportation) and then come back in three or four hours and it
will fire right up. Ford disease or something, just kidding....

I know this was absolutely no help, but your not alone out there on this
one.....
Good Luck
Casey

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 13:09:42 -0800
From: bill gibson
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Old Diesel Truck

Ron Madurski wrote:
>
> I have an 85 and it is one tough truck. I use it for towing and daily
> driving. The only thing I didn't like about it when I bought it is the
> gearing. It is set up to run 55 and almost all of our highways are 65
> or 75 around here. I fixed this by putting in an overdrive.
>
>Hi RonWhich overdrive unit did you get & is your truck a 4x4?My 85 has a 3:55 rear end so it
travels nice at 65 but the possibility of gear splitting would help when pulling a loaded stock
trailer (12000 plus pounds)
Thanks
Bill Gibson
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:17:36 -0800
From: Paul Laughlin
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 83 F-150 will not start

"Casey R. Vandor" wrote:
>
> I hate to say this, but my truck (83 F-250 EEC III 2barrel VV carb....)
> does the same thing about twice a month. Cold, warm, rain, dry.... I
> have yet to figure it out, and now with it really fricking cold up here,
> it will be a long while before I look at it again.

How cold is it up there, casey? From the TV, it sounds like you are in
the deep freeze -----.
Paul in Portland OR
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 15:32:33 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Plug wire thing again...

For the first time EVER, I put in 89 octane mid grade Shell gas today.
Haven't had her under full load yet...but no ping so far!

I can scarcely believe how much difference rerouting them made!!!!!

As to T/C Lock up....for Scott...mine almost always does 2-3 and lock up
together.
With 4-ways on (or sometimes under light accelleration) I can feel 2-3,
followed some time later by Lock Up....When I'm trying to drag my trailer
up an on ramp...
it will be a GREAT thing if I don't fall out of torque at 2-3 shift!!!!!
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 15:39:41 -0600
From: Ron Madurski
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - RE: Old Diesel Truck

Hi,

The Overdrive I installed is the torque splitter unit from Advance
Adapters. Try http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.advanceadapters.com/od/od.html for detailed
info. The unit is about 7" long and goes between the bell housing and
the tranny. It has its own shift lever and the original 2 get moved
back about 7". Mine is a 4x4 but that's no big deal, shorten one shaft
and lengthen the other (Cost about $100). Took me a weekend of
grunting, groaning, and cussing to get it in and working. I still need
to yank the seat back out and properly cover the hole in the floor. The
trailer that I tow with it probably weighs about 6000#. It is a heavy
dual axle enclosed trailer that is full of traffic cones. I pull it to
our autocross events. It is heavy enough that a half ton with a 302
can't pull it effectively on the highway.

- -----Original Message-----
From: bill gibson [mailto:gibsonb agt.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 1999 3:10 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Old Diesel Truck


Ron Madurski wrote:
>
> I have an 85 and it is one tough truck. I use it for towing and daily
> driving. The only thing I didn't like about it when I bought it is
the
> gearing. It is set up to run 55 and almost all of our highways are 65
> or 75 around here. I fixed this by putting in an overdrive.
>
>Hi RonWhich overdrive unit did you get & is your truck a
4x4?My 85 has a 3:55 rear end so it
travels nice at 65 but the possibility of gear splitting would help
when pulling a loaded stock
trailer (12000 plus pounds)
Thanks
Bill Gibson
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:04:21 -0500
From: Paul
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Find the part in the junkyard

Really? I didnt know that
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 16:13:40 -0600
From: Roger Lane
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Question about EEC-IV and aftermarket coils.

I have an 84 F150 with the 300 I6. Do any of you know if an aftermarket
coil can replace the stock one?
I still have a rough idle after replacing all the ignition components
(except the coil).
And I do mean ALL components: TFI Module, Pick-up Sensor, Cap, Rotor, Wires.
and Plugs.
(I even had to replace the little roll pin that holds the gear on the dist.)

Roger Lane
1984 F150, 300 I6, 3 SP OD Manual
1994 S10 Blazer, Vortec V6, 700R4(Wife's)
1991 Son (Can do 0 to Monster in 1.3 seconds.)
1990 Wife (Can do 0 to B*tch in 1.2 seconds.)

Roger.Lane IBPINC.COM

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:41:19 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Question about EEC-IV and aftermarket coils.

Roger,
Yes. If it has the EECIV and it has the plug in type coil there are several
aftermarket coils available. ACCEL, MSD and CRANE all have aftermarket coils
that will work.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
Wayne's Flareside Page
In a message dated 1/28/99 5:36:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Roger.Lane IBPINC.com writes:


coil can replace the stock one? >>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:01:54 EST
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rim Difference?

Dear fellow Ford enthusiasts,

I have a 1991 Ford F-250 H.D. XLT Lariat pickup, 4x4, lockouts. I noticed
when i bought the truck that three of the rims were the same and 1 was
different. (looks like its off of an older ford maybe 85 or so.) There are
two ways to tell the difference: 1.) the 3 rims that are the same are gray,
and the odd ball is tanish brown. 2.) when the odd ball rim is on the front
it makes the lockout hub stick about an inch out of the hubcab, but when the
regular gray rim is on, the lockout hub matches up flush with the hubcap. I
see trucks that are like mine with the hubs matching up flush with the hub
caps and some that don't, what does this mean? Are the rims different on a XL
than an XLT LARIAT? I need to find a rim that are like the other three that I
have. Can i get one at the junkyard?
Any comments, suggestions or answers will be appreciated

Thanks
Paul
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:07:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Speed Racer
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W

For all of you poor souls out there with automatic transmissions, B&M
makes an electronic shift enhancer that cost about 40 bucks. You can find
it in Summit.

Trenton Munsell
Oakland University-- Mechanical Engineering
1998-99 SAE President
1998-99 FSAE Team Leader
Brakes are a sign of weakness.....
..... When in doubt-- GAS IT!!!!!

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:37:01 -0600
From: "Chuck"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W

>
> For all of you poor souls out there with
> automatic transmissions, B&M
> makes an electronic shift enhancer that cost
> about 40 bucks. You can find
> it in Summit.
>

what exactly does this piece do?
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:40:22 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W

Trenton,
Come down here to Atlanta, GA and sit in our bumper to bumper morning and
evening traffic and we'll see who is a POOR SOUL at the end of 50 miles.
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
Wayne's Flareside Page
In a message dated 1/28/99 6:11:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tmmunsel oakland.edu writes:

makes an electronic shift enhancer that cost about 40 bucks. You can find
it in Summit.
>>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 15:51:14 -0800
From: "Meeres, Jon"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Serpentine with an attitude

This is my first post, but I have been watching for a while. I purchased new
in 1996 a '95 F250, fullsize pickup with 460, E40D. Love the truck so far
but an annoying squeaky serpentine belt evident mostly during cold morning
startup and operation has yet to be corrected by dealer (warranty still
exists). First attempt was just a belt replacement, second attempt was
another (shorter) belt per Ford TSB and a check of pulley alignment, third
attempt was again another belt complete with tensioner pulley assembly.
These so called fixes have occurred within the last 18 months (10k
kilometres), the truck has only a total of 15k kilometres and the squeak is
now starting again. The new tensioner pulley is a plastic composition ?
versus the original cast steel. Any suggestions on the durability of a
composite tensioner or how to cure the squeak would be appreciated. I have
read various concerns on this site about the durablility of Ford's E40D
transmission, did Ford upgrade the E40D for my particular model and year? If
so, what was the upgrade all about?

Jon,
BC, Canada.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 20:07:51 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 8.8 Rearend

Joe,

I believe you are referring to the pinion seal, rather than the cover
seal. There is a crush sleeve that is used to set the preload. When
you remove the nut with the torque wrench, you can note the amount of
torque required to remove it, and retighten it to the same point (I
forget the procedure). The procedure is different if you use new parts.
The bottom line is, you can't just wail on the pinion nut to tighten it.
The procedure is detailed in the Ford (Helm) manual, and the Haynes
manual probably has it right as well.

Steve S.

joe wrote:
>
> One of these days I've got to change the seal on my wife's 93 F150 SC. The
> Haines manual is saying something about using a torque wrench to measure
> the torque required to take the nut off, so you can preload the bearing
> when you put it back on. I think they mentioned a inch pound torque wrench.
> Is this practical using a digital model. Can anyone offer a little insight.
>
> Thanks
> Joe Phillip
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 20:11:14 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Speedometer Calibration

Darrin,

You are correct that the digital odometer calibration can be changed to
compensate for tire diameter size. It was posted here a long time ago,
but I didn't pay attention because mine is analog. I know it involves
the trip odometer button, and you can only do it six times, or something
like that.

Steve S.

Gourde, Darrin wrote:
>
> Can somebody tell me how to calibrate the speedometer for larger diameter
> tires on 1992 and up F150s? If this was answered in the past I missed it.
> Thanks
>
> Darrin
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 20:42:53 -0500 (EST)
From: Speed Racer
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W

Yea yea, we have plenty of traffic here too. Detroit, ya know, the motor
city. I just can't give up that control, and that rush of power on
command.

Trenton Munsell
Oakland University-- Mechanical Engineering
1998-99 SAE President
1998-99 FSAE Team Leader
Brakes are a sign of weakness.....
..... When in doubt-- GAS IT!!!!!

On Thu, 28 Jan 1999 FLR150 aol.com wrote:

> Trenton,
> Come down here to Atlanta, GA and sit in our bumper to bumper morning and
> evening traffic and we'll see who is a POOR SOUL at the end of 50 miles.
> Wayne Foy
> '94 Flareside Supercab
> Wayne's Flareside Page
> In a message dated 1/28/99 6:11:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> tmmunsel oakland.edu writes:
>
> makes an electronic shift enhancer that cost about 40 bucks. You can find
> it in Summit.
> >>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 20:43:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Speed Racer
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W

supposedly makes the shifts hit harder. I'm assuming not hard enough to
knock the pop cans off the dash, but a quicker more solid shift.

Trenton Munsell
Oakland University-- Mechanical Engineering
1998-99 SAE President
1998-99 FSAE Team Leader
Brakes are a sign of weakness.....
..... When in doubt-- GAS IT!!!!!

On Thu, 28 Jan 1999, Chuck wrote:

> >
> > For all of you poor souls out there with
> > automatic transmissions, B&M
> > makes an electronic shift enhancer that cost
> > about 40 bucks. You can find
> > it in Summit.
> >
>
> what exactly does this piece do?
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 20:19:17 PST
From: "Steve Likness"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - V-6 firing sequence

>>Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 03:07:02 -0000
>>From: "Russ Cominsky"
>>Subject: FTE 80-96 - V-6 firing order for Rangers
>
>>Can anyone tell me the firing order of the V-6 Ranger? Its a 1984.
>I
>cant seem to find it on the intke manifold.
>
>>Thanks.
>
>====================================================
>====================================================

According to my Chilton's the 232 (3.8L) V6 fires 1-4-2-5-3-6. The
Chilton's covers from '76-'86.

Steve




______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 21:16:12 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W

An important thing to check when shopping for a shift it is whether it has
provision for releasing the band for the gear you are shifting out of as
fast as it applies the band for the gear you are shifting into. Some cheap
shift kits will apply the band faster but no nothing to release the band for
the previous gear any faster. As a result you get binding while the two
bands overlap.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Speed Racer
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 1:45 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W


>supposedly makes the shifts hit harder. I'm assuming not hard enough to
>knock the pop cans off the dash, but a quicker more solid shift.
>
>Trenton Munsell
>Oakland University-- Mechanical Engineering
>1998-99 SAE President
>1998-99 FSAE Team Leader
> Brakes are a sign of weakness.....
> ..... When in doubt-- GAS IT!!!!!
>
>On Thu, 28 Jan 1999, Chuck wrote:
>
>> >
>> > For all of you poor souls out there with
>> > automatic transmissions, B&M
>> > makes an electronic shift enhancer that cost
>> > about 40 bucks. You can find
>> > it in Summit.
>> >
>>
>> what exactly does this piece do?
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 23:30:44 -0600
From: GTH
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D/AODE/4R70W

Dear Speed:
Presently I'd enjoy being a "poor soul"....5PM they finally found one
of those fabulous ZF 5-speeds (rebuilt with clutch) for only $2200.
installed....my childhood buddy's E40D only cost 2100. at AAMCO (and
took one day, I'm looking at 2 weeks).

Any leads still gratefully appreciated! ('89/300/ZF 5sp)

George Hester
Jackson MS
Speed Racer wrote:
>
> For all of you poor souls out there with automatic transmissions, B&M
> makes an electronic shift enhancer that cost about 40 bucks. You can find
> it in Summit.
>
> Trenton Munsell
> Oakland University-- Mechanical Engineering
> 1998-99 SAE President
> 1998-99 FSAE Team Leader
> Brakes are a sign of weakness.....
> ..... When in doubt-- GAS IT!!!!!
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 21:56:35 -0800
From: advocatjr earthlink.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Calif. 460

My 1995 F-250HD 2 wheel drive was rated at 245 HP 4200 RPM, and 400
lb/ft torque at 2200. Just want to fill you guys/gals in on the
California specs for the '95 460. I don't know how that compares to
other models in other states, but that's the ratings for here; at least
in Southern California. Believe me, it's got lots of pulling power, but
for some "street performance", I recommend a blower (even in CA that's
legal!). My suggestion, leave in the EFI, just learn to work around its
faults; serious performance would require making performance mods that
would normally require mass air +.... Keep on truckin', and thanks for
the excellent suggestions and advice so many list members leave for the
rest of us. It's such a pleasure to anticipate reading the digest after
work! Thank you for all of your help and advice.
Joe

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 21:54:23 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:'80 I6 CARB

Bob you asked some questions and hope I can help. We use only one style of
carbs on ours at work, it is the non-elec. automatic style.
- -

Where does the "mechanical float bowl vent" vent to? It's the lever-operated
"port" to the left (driver's side) of the fuel inlet. Mine is not connected
to anything - no hose, no tube, no nothing. Really exciting - if the float
sticks (it did) and the vent opens (it did), it pumps a LOT of gas all over
the carb, intake AND EXHAUST manifolds!! It seems to me it must be routed
somewhere ...

Well, can't ID that but maybe run a hose back to tank? or ground?
- -

Where does the choke cold air inlet connect to? It's the air passage at the
top of the air horn, right (passenger) side, above the choke plate. Mine has
a small rubber tube - looks like vacuum hose - that in turn connects to a
small diameter bent metal tube about 12" long in total, which in turn
connects to ... nothing. Where is it supposed to go?

That should go to the hole in the EX manifold if it has one. Directly AFT of
carb about 3inches and straight down . IF that is the correct manifold for
that application.
- -

A possible related question: there's a hole on the top of the "flange" of
the #1 intake runner, parallel to the studs - there's a hollow rolled "pin"
in there now, but I'm not sure it's original. What's the hole for - does it
go anywhere or is it blind? Is this one of the missing connection locations?

That's easy, it is an alignment pin (usualy plastic on later models and
breaks first time the gasket is changed) very handy when assembling
manifolds-to-head.
- -

Finally, anyone out there got the air cleaner mounting bracket and screws
for the top of the carb? Are they available from Ford without also buying
the attached carburetor?

Get me directly I might be able to help ya on dat one.
- -
On a related note, If you ever plan on changing the intake/ex gaskets on any
4.9/300, and purchase a FEL-PRO gasket. I have learned something about
these. This may sound strange, I scoffed at it the first time but now I use
this method everytime:

Take a sharp razor blade and separate the two gaskets carfuly, discard the
ex. gasket, yes, discard. Now put a thin layer of PERMATEX ULTRA BLUE RTV
(it is sensor safe) on BOTH sides of the intake gasket and after surfaces
are free of dirt,oil and old gasket (important on any gasket change) use
that handy alignment pin and reassemble.
Out of a fleet of 25 engines this method hasn't failed yet in 6 years....


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