80-96-list-digest Tuesday, January 26 1999 Volume 03 : Number 021



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan
FTE 80-96 - RE: 1991 F250 4WD 7.3 MPG
FTE 80-96 - Temp fix for dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Mushy brake pedal
FTE 80-96 - F250 4x4 7.3 MPG
FTE 80-96 - Selling some Ford Parts!
FTE 80-96 - 40/20/40 seats
Re: FTE 80-96 - Strong Brake Vibration
Re: FTE 80-96 - Selling some Ford Parts!
FTE 80-96 - Engine swap
Re: FTE 80-96 - Strong Brake Vibration
FTE 80-96 - RE; T/C Lock-up control 92 E4OD...one last question.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Strong Brake Vibration
FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead TRuck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Job
FTE 80-96 - Paint Peeling
FTE 80-96 - Re: temp fix for dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: temp fix for dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Paint Peeling
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE; T/C Lock-up control 92 E4OD...one last question.
FTE 80-96 - 91 F250 4WD 7.3 MPG
FTE 80-96 - looking to buy f150. what to look for
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE; T/C Lock-up control 92 E4OD...one last question.
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE; T/C Lock-up control 92 E4OD...one last question.
FTE 80-96 - V-6 Ranger firing order
Re: FTE 80-96 - Temp fix for dead truck
RE: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking
RE: FTE 80-96 - Brake Job
Re: FTE 80-96 - Temp fix for dead truck
FTE 80-96 - 5 lug rims for sale
FTE 80-96 - F150 Rear ABS Light on -- what to do
FTE 80-96 - F150 vibration under power between 45 and 65 mph
Re: FTE 80-96 - looking to buy f150. what to look for
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking
RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 vibration under power between 45 and 65 mph
RE: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking
Re: FTE 80-96 - F150 Rear ABS Light on -- what to do
FTE 80-96 - Fuel Filters on F 250

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 07:21:45 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan

Tom,
I am in Atlanta too. I have tried to go to several of the area junkyards and
to find parts for my truck is almost impossible (its a '94). Now yours on the
otherhand, there should be an immense amount of parts in the local yards.
Email me off list and I'll give you a few to check out. Also try
Locator Home - Automotive Recycling.
It lets you put out a request that is seen by hundreds of dealers. You'll
get responses. It may take a day or two but they will answer.
I hope this helps,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
Wayne's Flareside Page


In a message dated 1/24/99 4:49:25 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gunby mindspring.com writes:


it slip off a jack and would now like to replace the pan with something
similar to the original. Is a junk yard (I'm in Atlanta) the best
source (the local parts house did not have one) or is there a good
online source? Wonder if shipping may be too high to make it worth
buying mail order?
Thanks,
Tom Gunby >>
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 07:27:04 -0500
From: "Mary & Tim Bramble"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: 1991 F250 4WD 7.3 MPG

Morris,

I also have a 1991 F250 4WD with 7.3 diesel. I have 128,000 miles on mine
though and have added the Banks Sidewinder Turbo. I get around 17mpg on the
highway when I keep the rpm at 2,000 or less. I am usually flat towing my
Jeep CJ-7 too. I have 4.10 gears in mine and plan to go to a taller tire to
lower the rpm at highway speeds.

Tim
Bramble mindspring.com


- -----Original Message-----
From:owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com]
Sent:Monday, January 25, 1999 6:11 AM
To:80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject:80-96-list-digest V3 #20

Date:Sun, 24 Jan 1999 10:14:14 -0900
From:Morris
Subject:FTE 80-96 - 91 F250 4WD 7.3 MPG

I recently purchased a 1991 F250 4wd Ext w/7.3 diesel and 45,000 miles, I'm
getting 15.0 MPG on the open highway. Is this normal mpg for this age
truck? Thanks.

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 13:25:31 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnar?= Huse"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Temp fix for dead truck

Temp fix to start without keyswitch, oh yes...:

1. Turn ignition on
2. Make sure there are no gas leaks or gas vapor under the hood.
3. Hold on to your hat.
4. With a big mother of a screwdriver, short the + cable from the
battery with the hot-when-cranking lead from the ignition switch. Be
careful _not_ to short between the + and the ground connector of the
start motor, that will make you see double, sparks will fly and you may
blow your battery.
5. This should crank the engine and you should have ignition. Use one
hand on the accelerator linkage to give it some fuel, if necessary.

This is not convenient, but will get you started even if the only tool
you have is the jack wrench. Oh, yes: make sure the screwdriver or
handle is insulated (if insulated material is not available; make sure
that you are not touching the chassis or frame with any body parts, as
that might become your ground connection).

Quick and dirty. Not safe.

- --
Bjornar Huse
Aalesund, Norway
1 Son, 3 yrs
1 Groenendael, 4 yrs
1 1990 Ford E-250 Club Wagon 7.3 diesel, 3.54, E4OD
1 1994 Ford Escort 1.3
1 1986 Ford Escort 1.6 Wagon
Oh, yes, one 1971 wife, too!
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 07:05:42 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Mushy brake pedal

Glenn Koepnick wrote:

> When I push on the brakes while sitting and idling, if I push hard, I can
> hear a hissing sound while the pedal slowly travels to the floor. Or, if I
> push, hold, and then let up just a hair and then push again, the pedal will
> slowly go all the way to the floor.
> Could there be a problem with the boost assist? I don't know, but I am
> getting tired of hit and miss remove and replace.

Glen,
I can tell ya that id you here a hissing as to say a vauum
then yes, that is an indication the brakebooster is bad.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:16:43 -0500
From: Pete Kraus
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F250 4x4 7.3 MPG

On Sun, 24 Jan 1999 10:14:14 -0900 Morris inquired:

>I recently purchased a 1991 F250 4wd Ext w/7.3 diesel and 45,000
>miles, I'm getting 15.0 MPG on the open highway. Is this normal mpg for
>this age truck? Thanks.

That's about what I get overall from my '89, mixed around town driving,
not too much open highway. I've heard owners, including those on this
list, claim higher, others complain about lower figures.

It beats what the truck would do with a 351 or 460 gas engine. I think I
could do better with a 5-speed manual instead of the non-overdrive C6
3-speed automatic. That 4.11 gearing makes the engine rev
unnecessarily high at highway speeds. What transmission do you
have?

Pete
Pete_Kraus emory.org
'89 F250 4x4 7.3

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:38:47 -0500
From: "Golly, Scott M"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Selling some Ford Parts!

Dear list and Administrator:

Is it OK to sell some parts that I have for a 90 Ford F-150 over this list
or is there somewhere I can go? No hurry, but curious.

Thank you,
Scott M. Golly
Researcher/Fire Protection Engineer
gollys battelle.org

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:57:17 -0600
From: Steve Randa
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 40/20/40 seats

Can anyone tell me if the '94-96 40-20-40 seats mounting bracket conforms to the
shape of the floor. The reason I'm asking is I got a set of seats from a company
that claimed they were new take-outs. When I recieved them it was obvious that
the mounting bracket that the cushions bolt to was a frabricated "universal
bracket" (Ticks me off, I hate getting lied to). Orignial mounting studs were cut
off of the center cushion and was redrilled to mate to this bracket. Now that I
have it in, its sits very high and I'm a short guy. A six footer would definately
be rubbing his head on the head liner. Now back to the original question...This
univeral bracket is made of straight stock and since the transmission tunnel is
raised this only allows the seat to go down only so far. I thought that maybe the
bracket on a stock seat would follow the floor more. Unfortunately I have no
truck within a close distance to compare to.

Steve
'84 F150

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:51:40 EST
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Strong Brake Vibration

Chuck,

You might check to see if your caliper is sticking or maybe the piston in the
caliper.
I had the same problem on my 89 Ranger. Put on new one from NAPA and got
a couple of new rotors and it fixed the problem.

Brian
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:31:07 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Selling some Ford Parts!

At 08:38 AM 1/25/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Dear list and Administrator:
>
>Is it OK to sell some parts that I have for a 90 Ford F-150 over this list
>or is there somewhere I can go? No hurry, but curious.
>
>Thank you,
>Scott M. Golly
>Researcher/Fire Protection Engineer
>gollys battelle.org
>

Private party ads are acceptable on the lists and classifieds.
So long as you aren't selling them for a business, its ok.

Ken Payne

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:13:42 PST
From: "Steve Likness"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap

Re: '82 F150 351W for 300 I6

Thanks for all the good info. I would have never suspected that I would
have needed to replace the flex plate, so that was major! I feel a lot
more confident that I can complete the swap without major headaches and
I will keep you informed. I have the 351W long block in my garage and
my son is tearing down the 300 I6. It was in worse shape than I
imagined! I am now purchasing the periphery parts for the 351 and it
will probably be a 2-4 weeks before I can drop it back in.

Thanks again and if there is any additional advice, keep it coming.
It's been a real education.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:39:54 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Strong Brake Vibration

Chuck,
Without hearing the noise it sounds like to me that maybe the wheel bearings
are going or need to be re-packed. I just had to do that to mine. It was a
ticking/knocking that occurred only when braking or during cornering. Unless
you repacked them when you did the brakes, they probably need to be redone.
My .02,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
Wayne's Flareside Page
In a message dated 1/24/99 10:39:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, dtra2 ionet.net
writes:


(noisy) vibration, Last year I put on new brake rotors,
pads, and shoes. No rear drums. I also have noisy
calipers, they seem to knock when braking. What is
causing all this?

Chuck >>
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:13:47 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE; T/C Lock-up control 92 E4OD...one last question.

I am about ready to do the toggle switch in the purple wire w/ yellow
stripe.....

Last question...do I JUST need to break continouity on the wire, or does
one or both ends need grounding or anything like that?

That's all! Depending on answer, I'll post my results!!!

Dave H.
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 13:38:47 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Strong Brake Vibration

Chuck wrote:

> When I brake '92 Flareside (99600 miles), I get a strong
> (noisy) vibration, Last year I put on new brake rotors,
> pads, and shoes. No rear drums. I also have noisy
> calipers, they seem to knock when braking. What is
> causing all this?

Chuck, Did you make sure you put the anti-vibrational clip on the
inside shoes when you put them on ?

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-)
:-))


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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:02:22 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead TRuck

Casey asked about the starting circuit and the effects of changes.

The starter relay has 4 posts right? 2 little and 2 big. The little post on
relay marked " I " is the ignition by-pass wire, this goes straight to
the coil and is powered up with battery voltage while cranking. Because the
coil gets around 9 V during normal engine operation through the "resistor
wire" or "ballast resistor".
If this wire doesn't get battery voltage to the coil during starting, in
the cold especially the darn thing won't start! Trust me Anch. AK had
only -17F and I found that my connector at the coil had busted off sometime,
repaired and minor tweak on the choke spring setting and ...vvvrrrrooomm!

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 15:24:27 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Job

Tom Gunby wrote:

> Am trying to inspect the brakes on my 86 F-150 to see if they need pads
> and / or rebuild. Found a helpful link at
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.classic truckshop. com/brake_rebuild1.htm that says to "adjust
> all the brakes down prior to removing the drums to allow the linings to
> clear the drum for removal". How do I "adjust all the brakes down"?

Tom, I don't know if I'm to late with the answer, but here ya go.
You use the star wheel they show in the picture on the above
webpage address. They even labeled it " star wheel ". Depending
on which way you turn it, the brakeshoes will either push against the
drum or draw in away from it to allow you to pull it off. I use a
a small flat head screw driver. You have access to the star wheel
through an elongated hole on the backside of where they show that
wheel. There will be or should be a rubber cover over it. If not
then I suggest you buy the spring kit($10.00) while replacing the
brake shoes, and new rubber covers will come with it. Once you
take off the rubber cover, then simply use a small flat head
screw driver and reach in and turn the star wheel. When you
start turning the star wheel you will hear a loud click/pop.
Thats just the springs and shoes expanding or retracting.
You'll just have to play with it, a few clicks at a time to see
which way retracts the shoes away from the drum.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-)
:-))


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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:55:51 EST
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Paint Peeling

Dear Ford Members:

I have a 1991 Ford F-250 pickup, Reg, Cab, 8 foot bed, 4X4, 460, 3:55 gears,
and two tone paint (red at the top, then white in the middle, and red again).
I bought this truck in August of 98. Just a month ago, the paint started
peeling off. Its peeling off the right front fender about 1/4 inch above the
chrome trim. On the right rear fender it is bubbling up and popping. There
is no rust involved and when the paint comes off it takes the primer with it.
I know its an older truck, (and i know fords are known for rusting at the
fender wells) but there is no rust and there are other trucks like mine here
in Hardin, IL that haven't even done it. It is the original paint on the
right side, but it has been painted on the left side about 2 years ago,
because of an accident by the previous owner and it has even starting to
bubble. I talked to the local ford dealer because i heard of paint problems
in the 80's, but i was wondering if they had paint problems in 91. Also if
the paint would turn out to be defective how would i go about getting Ford
Motor Company to compensate like they did for other trucks? Any ideas,
suggestions, or comments will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Paul
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 14:54:36 -0900
From: "Casey R. Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: temp fix for dead truck

The only problems I can see are the coil as you mentioned, the fuse
block and the computer. The fuse block should be fairly simple, I can
run new wires to the igniton box and use the key to get power to the
accessories. The computer is a problem though, my ignition wire runs
from the battery into the computer, then to the key and on to the
starting solenoid. I can't find this wire in the schematics and I am
not exactly sure what it does/controls/checks... It is and orignal Ford
wire, (has those fusible links in it and is embedded into some of the
wire bundles running aruond up under the hood.

THanks,
Casey
>>>>>>>>>
I can't think of any reason you couldn't do that with a push button,
solenoid,
and cables. Just feed power to the push button from the ignition switch
and
cable from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter. Or you could
just run
a new wire from the start terminal of the existing solenoid to a push
button
in the cab. Ford does however, use a different route to power the coil
while
cranking than when running. Not sure how much effect this will have on
starting or if your truck even has this feature. Might be worth a try
though
considering where you are at with the truck at this point.
D Baken

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 19:33:58 EST
From: Bakend aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: temp fix for dead truck

In a message dated 1/25/99 5:08:19 PM Mountain Standard Time,
fscrv1 aurora.alaska.edu writes:

> The computer is a problem though, my ignition wire runs
> from the battery into the computer, then to the key and on to the
> starting solenoid. I can't find this wire in the schematics and I am
> not exactly sure what it does/controls/checks... It is and orignal Ford
> wire, (has those fusible links in it and
Don't think that will be a problem.... Turn key to run and hit your new button
and the computer should be powered same as before. And d*mn those fusible
links!!
D Baken
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 21:28:26 -0500
From: "Doug McGuinn"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Paint Peeling

My '89 F-150 looks like it has leprosy from the peeling paint. I think it
was a defect in the paint. We'll probably not see a penny in a settlement
because most of the cars and trucks with peeling paint are so old now that
they have mostly been traded or junked or wrecked or something. The only
solutions are either to live with it (my truck has a lots of dings and dents
in it, so the peeling paint just blends in), or have it repainted at your
own expense. Save your bill, because there could be a settlement, but I
doubt it.

- -----Original Message-----
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, January 25, 1999 6:12 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Paint Peeling


>Dear Ford Members:
>
>I have a 1991 Ford F-250 pickup, Reg, Cab, 8 foot bed, 4X4, 460, 3:55
gears,
>and two tone paint (red at the top, then white in the middle, and red
again).
>I bought this truck in August of 98. Just a month ago, the paint started
>peeling off. Its peeling off the right front fender about 1/4 inch above
the
>chrome trim. On the right rear fender it is bubbling up and popping.
There
>is no rust involved and when the paint comes off it takes the primer with
it.
>I know its an older truck, (and i know fords are known for rusting at the
>fender wells) but there is no rust and there are other trucks like mine
here
>in Hardin, IL that haven't even done it. It is the original paint on the
>right side, but it has been painted on the left side about 2 years ago,
>because of an accident by the previous owner and it has even starting to
>bubble. I talked to the local ford dealer because i heard of paint
problems
>in the 80's, but i was wondering if they had paint problems in 91. Also if
>the paint would turn out to be defective how would i go about getting Ford
>Motor Company to compensate like they did for other trucks? Any ideas,
>suggestions, or comments will be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks
>Paul
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 18:59:12 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE; T/C Lock-up control 92 E4OD...one last question.

Dave Harmier wrote:
>
> I am about ready to do the toggle switch in the purple wire w/ yellow
> stripe.....
>
> Last question...do I JUST need to break continouity on the wire, or does
> one or both ends need grounding or anything like that?
>
> That's all! Depending on answer, I'll post my results!!!
>
> Dave H.
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


Yes Dave, the switch is just to break continuity.

And Chris is absolutely right about the four way hazard lights being on
and the TC lock-up being enabled. I tried this on the way home last
night and turning on the hazards does exactly the same thing as hitting
my disable switch. I still think the switch is the way to go though,
I'd feel like a real dick driving around all day with my hazards
flashing. It is a great way to test the lock-up disable and see if it
helps your drivability though.

Hey Chris, do you know why this happens? Seems odd to me.

Thanks,

Dana B
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 21:48:42 -0500
From: jeffd
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 91 F250 4WD 7.3 MPG

I got 17MPG with my 89F250 7.3 liter diesel 2WD until my trans started slipping a
little. I think that with 4WD 15MPG is probably a fairly accurate number. This is
a big truck. People with gas models are getting less than 10MPG. Consider
yourself fortunate, I guess.

Jeff Dockendorff
jeffd pioneeris.net



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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 22:39:26 -0500
From: Jerad J Heffner
Subject: FTE 80-96 - looking to buy f150. what to look for

i know this is probably a common question, but I still need the answer.

I currently own an '84 Ranger, but have deemed it the right time to get
myself a newer vehicle.

At first, I was going to get another Ranger, but I want something
bigger. F150s and Big Broncos are what I was thinking about, but I have
ruled out the Bronco because I really want a pickup.

I'm going to try to go for a 1992 f150, but would like to know of any
specific things to look for in these trucks. In other words, your
suggestions, preferably based on experience.

My current wish list is as follows:
1992 or 1993 F150
4x4
4.9L V6
Auto
AC

Short list of requirements, no doubt, but it's all I really really
want. Besides things like power door locks and windows (long reach to
other side), what are other items I should consider?

I've heard the 300 ci V6 is a reliable engine (as is the 2.3L in my
Ranger [181,000 miles]), but does it have adequate power? I'm not
lookin' to tow heavy loads, nor will I do any 'serious' 4wheelin'. I'm
more concerned about fuel economy than power. What are average mpgs
city/highway for the 4.9, 5.0, and 5.8L engines?

I'm assuming manual hubs were offered in '92, but realistically, are my
chances of finding a truck with man. hubs going to be slim?

Also, what items should I avoid?

Sorry for the long e-mail, but I'm doin' my research!
Jerad, aka Indygo98

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 22:03:05 -0600
From: Bart Ogden
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE; T/C Lock-up control 92 E4OD...one last question.

If you lightly touch the brakes it will do the same thing. Just barely
touch it and you'll feel the kickdown.

Also, before I cut into my wires and install the switch --- I'm ASSUMING
that these instructions will work on an F-150? I think the previous post
was about an F-350.

With wiring pliers in hand and waiting for just one more assurance...

Bart

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dana Bartholomew
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, January 25, 1999 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE; T/C Lock-up control 92 E4OD...one last
question.


>Dave Harmier wrote:
>>
>> I am about ready to do the toggle switch in the purple wire w/ yellow
>> stripe.....
>>
>> Last question...do I JUST need to break continouity on the wire, or does
>> one or both ends need grounding or anything like that?
>>
>> That's all! Depending on answer, I'll post my results!!!
>>
>> Dave H.
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
>Yes Dave, the switch is just to break continuity.
>
>And Chris is absolutely right about the four way hazard lights being on
>and the TC lock-up being enabled. I tried this on the way home last
>night and turning on the hazards does exactly the same thing as hitting
>my disable switch. I still think the switch is the way to go though,
>I'd feel like a real dick driving around all day with my hazards
>flashing. It is a great way to test the lock-up disable and see if it
>helps your drivability though.
>
>Hey Chris, do you know why this happens? Seems odd to me.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dana B
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 20:21:59 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE; T/C Lock-up control 92 E4OD...one last question.

Bart Ogden wrote:
>
> If you lightly touch the brakes it will do the same thing. Just barely
> touch it and you'll feel the kickdown.
>
> Also, before I cut into my wires and install the switch --- I'm ASSUMING
> that these instructions will work on an F-150? I think the previous post
> was about an F-350.
>
> With wiring pliers in hand and waiting for just one more assurance...
>
> Bart
>


I don't see any problem with an F150 as long as it's an E4OD you should
be good to go. I would guess that this is somehow tied to the brake
lights then. Hit the brakes, turn on the flashers, anything that lights
the rear brake or turn signal lights must disable the lock-up.

Dana Bartholomew
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 03:12:39 -0000
From: "Russ Cominsky"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - V-6 Ranger firing order

Can anyone tell me the firing order for the 1984 Ranger V-6? I cant seem to fing it on the intake.

Thanks.


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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 20:32:14 -0000
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Temp fix for dead truck

That's the scariest sounding way I have heard of to get your truck started,
but if it works in a pinch then it is definitely good to know.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bjrnar Huse
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, January 25, 1999 12:31 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Temp fix for dead truck


>Temp fix to start without keyswitch, oh yes...:
>
>1. Turn ignition on
>2. Make sure there are no gas leaks or gas vapor under the hood.
>3. Hold on to your hat.
>4. With a big mother of a screwdriver, short the + cable from the
>battery with the hot-when-cranking lead from the ignition switch. Be
>careful _not_ to short between the + and the ground connector of the
>start motor, that will make you see double, sparks will fly and you may
>blow your battery.
>5. This should crank the engine and you should have ignition. Use one
>hand on the accelerator linkage to give it some fuel, if necessary.
>
>This is not convenient, but will get you started even if the only tool
>you have is the jack wrench. Oh, yes: make sure the screwdriver or
>handle is insulated (if insulated material is not available; make sure
>that you are not touching the chassis or frame with any body parts, as
>that might become your ground connection).
>
>Quick and dirty. Not safe.
>
>--
>Bjornar Huse
>Aalesund, Norway
>1 Son, 3 yrs
>1 Groenendael, 4 yrs
>1 1990 Ford E-250 Club Wagon 7.3 diesel, 3.54, E4OD
>1 1994 Ford Escort 1.3
>1 1986 Ford Escort 1.6 Wagon
>Oh, yes, one 1971 wife, too!
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 23:25:39 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking

Take an adjustable oil filter wrench(one that fits between the canister and
frame rail) and open this black plastic can. Inside you will find your
inline fuel filter element. When you ask the parts store for a new one open
the box they give you and make sure it is correct in size and has the o-ring
that seals the cup when placing the cup back on the receiver portion. Parts
stores try to give me 3 different types of filters because my truck
production year was mfg'd with 3 different types of filters.

Wish I did have an answer for the leak but the unit you described sounds
like the filter housing.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Tom Gunby [SMTP:gunby mindspring.com]
> Sent:Sunday, January 24, 1999 2:57 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking
>
> Hello Andre-
>
> Thanks for the information and golf tee suggestion. The lines are very
> thick and
> have rigid couplers some of which are angled at 90 degrees so it appears
> the golf
> tee idea is not applicable (my neighbor suggested the golf tee idea
> yesterday but
> when he saw the lines and couplers agreed with me that the golf tee idea
> would not
> work). We came up with the same answer you did - drive the truck until
> the tanks
> until are near empty, jack up the front of the truck to assist gravity a
> little then
> disconnect the lines and tie them to the rail above while replacing the
> defective
> unit.
>
> I seem to have mis-spoken about the defective unit. The men at the parts
> house
> (went there yesterday) call it a "valve selector". It is a black plastic
> can-looking unit mounted vertically on the frame rail. Physically, it's
> about the
> same diameter and 2/3 the height of a tin can that soup or other canned
> goods come
> packaged in. Wonder if it is possible to repair or rebuild its innards or
> if I am
> stuck buying a new unit?
>
> Thanks again for the help.
>
> Regards,
> Tom Gunby
>
>
>
>
>
> Andre Roy wrote:
>
> > Tom Gunby wrote:
> > >
> > > The frame-mounted fuel pump has four lines in from the rear (two from
> > > each tank) and two lines out to the front (one to the fuel filter the
> > > other up into the engine compartment).
> > >
> > That would be the return line.
> >
> > I can disconnect the front two
> > > lines and a couple of drops of gas leaks out. If I disconnect either
> of
> > > the rear lines, gas flows out and apparently will continue to do so
> > > until the particular tank is empty (I caught a gallon trying to see if
> > > the "line would empty" but it kept flowing)........... Thought about
> clamping
> > > off the lines but they are very thick. Sure would appreciate some
> > > insight on this one.
> > >
> > Well, you could drive it until it's nearly empty. Or get some golf tees.
> > Stick them in the lines to block them.
> >
> > I know it's a weird time of year to be buying golf supplies, but there
> > you are. ;-)
> >
> > --
> > Andre, Somewhere ...
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 23:50:07 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Brake Job

Before turning the star wheel, look inside the hole. There is a latch that
has to be pushed towards the back of the wheel that keeps it from adjusting
itself except when driving in reverse(self-adjusting brakes). When the
latch is pushed back, move the screwdriver handle up/star wheel down to
retract the shoes. I use a small screwdriver to push the latch back and a
little bigger one to rotate the wheel. When you re-assemble the brakes,
just back-up to readjust them.

Hopes this helps!

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Rick Wojciechowski [SMTP:wojciecr nichols.com]
> Sent:Monday, January 25, 1999 3:24 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Job
>
> Tom Gunby wrote:
>
> > Am trying to inspect the brakes on my 86 F-150 to see if they need pads
> > and / or rebuild. Found a helpful link at
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.classic truckshop. com/brake_rebuild1.htm that says to "adjust
> > all the brakes down prior to removing the drums to allow the linings to
> > clear the drum for removal". How do I "adjust all the brakes down"?
>
> Tom, I don't know if I'm to late with the answer, but here ya go.
> You use the star wheel they show in the picture on the above
> webpage address. They even labeled it " star wheel ". Depending
> on which way you turn it, the brakeshoes will either push against the
> drum or draw in away from it to allow you to pull it off. I use a
> a small flat head screw driver. You have access to the star wheel
> through an elongated hole on the backside of where they show that
> wheel. There will be or should be a rubber cover over it. If not
> then I suggest you buy the spring kit($10.00) while replacing the
> brake shoes, and new rubber covers will come with it. Once you
> take off the rubber cover, then simply use a small flat head
> screw driver and reach in and turn the star wheel. When you
> start turning the star wheel you will hear a loud click/pop.
> Thats just the springs and shoes expanding or retracting.
> You'll just have to play with it, a few clicks at a time to see
> which way retracts the shoes away from the drum.
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Rick Wojo
> '83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
> '92 Mstng 5.0L
> '95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-)
> :-))
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 21:58:59 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Temp fix for dead truck

It works, it's the easiest way to turn the motor over if you are under the
hood. It's Not safe, but it works.

Bob
haven't blown anything up yet.


Radoje Spasojevic wrote:

> That's the scariest sounding way I have heard of to get your truck started,
> but if it works in a pinch then it is definitely good to know.
>
> Rade
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bjrnar Huse
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Date: Monday, January 25, 1999 12:31 PM
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Temp fix for dead truck
>
> >Temp fix to start without keyswitch, oh yes...:
> >
> >1. Turn ignition on
> >2. Make sure there are no gas leaks or gas vapor under the hood.
> >3. Hold on to your hat.
> >4. With a big mother of a screwdriver, short the + cable from the
> >battery with the hot-when-cranking lead from the ignition switch. Be
> >careful _not_ to short between the + and the ground connector of the
> >start motor, that will make you see double, sparks will fly and you may
> >blow your battery.
> >5. This should crank the engine and you should have ignition. Use one
> >hand on the accelerator linkage to give it some fuel, if necessary.
> >
> >This is not convenient, but will get you started even if the only tool
> >you have is the jack wrench. Oh, yes: make sure the screwdriver or
> >handle is insulated (if insulated material is not available; make sure
> >that you are not touching the chassis or frame with any body parts, as
> >that might become your ground connection).
> >
> >Quick and dirty. Not safe.
> >
> >--
> >Bjornar Huse
> >Aalesund, Norway
> >1 Son, 3 yrs
> >1 Groenendael, 4 yrs
> >1 1990 Ford E-250 Club Wagon 7.3 diesel, 3.54, E4OD
> >1 1994 Ford Escort 1.3
> >1 1986 Ford Escort 1.6 Wagon
> >Oh, yes, one 1971 wife, too!
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 22:21:37 -0800
From: "John R. Jetty"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 5 lug rims for sale

I have a set of 5 lug rims ( chrome modular) for sale. They where of my 77
LTD 2 ( like a thunder bird). I live outside of Las Vegas in Pahrump NV.
they are 15X8's

Thanks
James

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Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 01:28:36 -0500
From: Jay Snyder
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 Rear ABS Light on -- what to do

I just got an '87 F150. A few seconds after starting, the rear anti-lock
light comes on and stays on.

I assume this means that there is a problem with my anti-lock system.
How should I got about diagnosing this?

Thanks,
Jay
'87 F-150 300-I6, C6 auto
============================================================
Jay Snyder
jsnyder microserve.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.microserve.net/~jsnyder
(717)652-3567
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 01:30:38 -0500
From: Jay Snyder
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 vibration under power between 45 and 65 mph

My '87 F150 has a vibration that starts around 45 and quits around
65mph. It is only under power of acceleration, or cruising, but
goes away while coasting.

What might be causing this? (driveshaft out of balance?)

Thanks,
Jay
'87 F150 300-I6

============================================================
Jay Snyder
jsnyder microserve.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.microserve.net/~jsnyder
(717)652-3567
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 23:18:47 -0800
From: Erston Reisch
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - looking to buy f150. what to look for

Jerad J Heffner wrote:
>
> I'm going to try to go for a 1992 f150, but would like to know of any
> specific things to look for in these trucks. In other words, your
> suggestions, preferably based on experience.

Jerad:

1992 is the first year of the second aero light/grille styles, and run a
little bit more money than earlier trucks. They also have a newer dash, which
is nicer than the earlier ones. I assume this is why you're looking in this
age category?

I own a '90 F-150 standard cab, short bed, 4x2 with the 4.9l six. I wanted to
note to you that it's actually an inline six, not a V6, but this is a good
thing - it's smooth, quiet, and easy to work on. I'm clumsy, but changed my
plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and filters today without much hassle and absolutely
no bleeding - a first for me with any car.

The engine has plenty of power for me, but I'm not into drag racing or towing
big objects. It's as fast or faster than the '89 V6 Ranger I've driven, and
much more enjoyable to drive. If you're used to a four, you will probably be
happy.

However, don't take my word - go drive them!

Mileage: I just changed all my ignition parts and filters today (they were the
factory parts at 56k miles) so take that into account. I've been getting
about 16mpg in mixed city and highway. I expect 17-18 after the work I did
today. The window sticker says that the truck should get 15 city, 20 highway.

- - Erston



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Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 02:32:49 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking

Hey, when I opened that black canister on my 89 f-250 it had no filter in it,
and I had to go to ford to get that rubber seal that breaks apart , when you
unscrew it. I was told not to mess with that canister, it does no good.

Joe
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Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 02:19:45 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - F150 vibration under power between 45 and 65 mph

You didn't say but did you try rotating and rebalancing tires?

Just a low cost thought.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Jay Snyder [SMTP:jsnyder microserve.net]
> Sent:Tuesday, January 26, 1999 12:31 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - F150 vibration under power between 45 and 65 mph
>
> My '87 F150 has a vibration that starts around 45 and quits around
> 65mph. It is only under power of acceleration, or cruising, but
> goes away while coasting.
>
> What might be causing this? (driveshaft out of balance?)
>
> Thanks,
> Jay
> '87 F150 300-I6
>
> ============================================================
> Jay Snyder
> jsnyder microserve.net
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.microserve.net/~jsnyder
> (717)652-3567
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 02:21:37 -0600
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking

I forgot to mention that my truck is an '85 F150 302ci if it helps.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:JSC721 aol.com [SMTP:JSC721 aol.com]
> Sent:Tuesday, January 26, 1999 1:33 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking
>
> Hey, when I opened that black canister on my 89 f-250 it had no filter in....


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