80-96-list-digest Monday, January 25 1999 Volume 03 : Number 020



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Help! rainy day 460
Re: FTE 80-96 - TC lock-up disable
FTE 80-96 - Banks Power Pack
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead Truck
FTE 80-96 - 91 F250 4WD 7.3 MPG
Re: FTE 80-96 - my f150
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Nov & Dec archives
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan
FTE 80-96 - Bad Idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bad Idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bad Idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Good News/Bad News
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan
FTE 80-96 - Temp fix for dead truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan
FTE 80-96 - Strong Brake Vibration
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates
Re: FTE 80-96 - Temp fix for dead truck

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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 07:13:34 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Help! rainy day 460

It is much more likely that you have a cracked distributor cap and water is
getting in to the crack and causing a short. Try drying out the cap with
alcohol or warming it in the oven (without the wires and at the lowest
temperature possible). It could also be a bad spark plug wire or even a
dirty spark plug insulator. This is where listening for that "tick, tick,
tick" of a spark jumping or running at night and looking for the little
spark can help.

Mike

At 03:28 PM 1/23/99 EST, you wrote:
>I own a '89 F-350 w/ a 460. When it rains, I seem to lose a cylinder and the
>engine sputters. I was told by a buddy of mine that I might have a vacuum
leak
>somewhere and it is pulling the moisture in. I don't know. Any information
>would be helpful.
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>
Mike Sloane, Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)

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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 08:29:15 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - TC lock-up disable

Dana Bartholomew wrote:
>
> > You guys are working much to hard at this...just turn you 4 ways on the
> > TC will not lock up till you turn them off!
> > Chris
> > 94 Lightning #381
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> Could you elaborate on this? I don't understand what "just turn you 4
> ways on" means.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dana B
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If you turn your 4 way flashers on your TC does not lock up until you
turn them off!
Chris
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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 10:34:47 EST
From: Metalsped aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Banks Power Pack

I was wondering if anyone out there has purchased a Banks Power Pack for a
460. I am looking to purchase one. Is it really worth the money? Are ther
results really that dramatical, 70h.p. and 85?ft.lbs.?
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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 11:46:11 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead Truck

At 08:46 AM 1/23/99 -0900, you wrote:
>I appreciate all the support, and I hae to give up on the thing for now,
>but it is just running me broke to try and keep it running. I can't
>keep a job becasue this thing dies on me so much and can't get to work
>on time. I need something that will start when I turn the key, whether
>thats at 1:00 in the afternoon or 1:00 in the morning, -40 below or 80
>degrees out. This truck is just not dependable. I am not writing ford
>out of my books, but this is going to have to become a project ford
>rather than my daily driver.
>
>Thanks,
>Casey
>

Sorry to here that. Years ago I had a Dodge truck (before I knew
better) and it must have been really abused before I got it. With
used autos/trucks sometimes you inherit someone elses mess.

Ken

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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 10:14:14 -0900
From: Morris
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 91 F250 4WD 7.3 MPG

I recently purchased a 1991 F250 4wd Ext w/7.3 diesel and 45,000 miles,
I'm getting 15.0 MPG on the open highway. Is this normal mpg for this
age truck? Thanks.

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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 12:43:40 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - my f150

It is known that changing an oxygen sensor will improve fuel economy and
sometimes engine performance. The oxygen sensor is screwed into the engine
pipeand has a plug on it, it will cost you about 38.00 at autozone. as far as
checking out your codes, I beleive i posted an ecc-iv bulletin on how to find
the codes. you jump the ecc-iv test plug, then you count the flashes of the
check engine light. 1 flash then pause then 2 flashes is code 12 , three
flashes then pause then two more is code 32, these are just some examples.

you can use a volt/ohm meter and connect it to the test plug then count the
sweeps of the needle for your codes, you then look up the codes in your ford
manual ( that you should purchase at an auto parts store) and find out what
parts are defective.
good luck.
Joe . flashwax.com
EEC Self Test Procedure
Two-Digit EEC Codes

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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 14:59:26 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Nov & Dec archives

November and December list archives are now on the website.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 12:40:56 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan

Oil pans weigh in at about 15-20 lb.. Shipping shouldn't be too big of a
bite.

Bob


Tom Gunby wrote:

> A while back, I wrinkled the oil pan on my 86 F-150 302 EFI by letting
> it slip off a jack and would now like to replace the pan with something
> similar to the original. Is a junk yard (I'm in Atlanta) the best
> source (the local parts house did not have one) or is there a good
> online source? Wonder if shipping may be too high to make it worth
> buying mail order?
> Thanks,
> Tom Gunby
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 15:37:47 EST
From: AeroAce13 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bad Idle

Maybe someone can help me with a problem I am having with my F-150. It is a
1985 f-150 w/straight 6. When ever it is raing out the idle is very rough and
after it warms up it doesn't really idle steadily, the rpms keep jumping up
and down, the tach actually goes to 0 and jumps back up sometimes. Although
when it is dry out the truck runs fine. I would greatly appreciate any imput
to solving this idle problem.
I had a problem with it stalling and replaced the EGR and now it doesn't
stall be the idle it bad when it rains. Thanks

Ed
'85' F-150 4x4 XLT Lariet
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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 12:48:24 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bad Idle

Water, hmmm. Try replacing the distributor cap. The water is shorting you out
under there somewhere.

Bob



AeroAce13 aol.com wrote:

> Maybe someone can help me with a problem I am having with my F-150. It is a
> 1985 f-150 w/straight 6. When ever it is raing out the idle is very rough and
> after it warms up it doesn't really idle steadily, the rpms keep jumping up
> and down, the tach actually goes to 0 and jumps back up sometimes. Although
> when it is dry out the truck runs fine. I would greatly appreciate any imput
> to solving this idle problem.
> I had a problem with it stalling and replaced the EGR and now it doesn't
> stall be the idle it bad when it rains. Thanks
>
> Ed
> '85' F-150 4x4 XLT Lariet
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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 15:56:22 EST
From: Doom460 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bad Idle

I have a 460 that has almost that exact same problem. I was told that it could
be a cracked distributor cap or bad plug wires. Hope this helps
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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 16:51:58 EST
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Good News/Bad News

Paul,

Next time it happens pull apart the wire harness under the hood. The one that
connects everything under the hood into the cab. I believe it is 10mm bolt.
I had a 95 f150 with
the 5.0 that did the same thing. The harness trapped moisture in there. I
ended up
wrapping it with tar tape. If you look under your hood at the back side you
will see the
rubber that seals the back side only goes about 3/4 way over, so when it rains
or high
moistures is present it dripps right on the terminal.

brian
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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 17:42:20 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan

Tom,
Having recently done some drivetrain work under my truck I finally inspected
a nagging oil leak. Noticing my oil pan gasket is partially blown out on
one side, I also noticed what bad condition the pan is in. The paint has
bubbled up and has lots of pits from rust, deep too and I'm afraid they may
start leaking. This started my recent inquiry into a new aftermarket pan.
Ouch! I have the 351W H.O. w/a 7qt pan and so far the prices I'm seeing are
mid 200's! I've only looked at Jeg's and Summit so far, and I know at least
one mfgr. was Mildon. That's w/o chrome and nothing fancy, like windage
trays or special race baffles or anything. Let me know what you uncover.
If anyone has a good used one, I'd be interested in it. TIA

Later,
Brew

Tom Gunby wrote:

> A while back, I wrinkled the oil pan on my 86 F-150 302 EFI by letting
> it slip off a jack and would now like to replace the pan with something
> similar to the original. Is a junk yard (I'm in Atlanta) the best
> source (the local parts house did not have one) or is there a good
> online source? Wonder if shipping may be too high to make it worth
> buying mail order?
> Thanks,
> Tom Gunby
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 18:51:43 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan

Gentlemen,

Don't laugh, but check the oil pan prices with your local Ford dealer
first. I paid about $75 (net, about two years ago) for a pan for my
302. The dealer should have it in stock, too, based on the number of
rotted out oil pans. There are very few good used ones. Your dipstick
tube probably has holes in it, too!

Steve



Randy wrote:
>
> Tom,
> Having recently done some drivetrain work under my truck I finally inspected
> a nagging oil leak. Noticing my oil pan gasket is partially blown out on
> one side, I also noticed what bad condition the pan is in. The paint has
> bubbled up and has lots of pits from rust, deep too and I'm afraid they may
> start leaking. This started my recent inquiry into a new aftermarket pan.
> Ouch! I have the 351W H.O. w/a 7qt pan and so far the prices I'm seeing are
> mid 200's! I've only looked at Jeg's and Summit so far, and I know at least
> one mfgr. was Mildon. That's w/o chrome and nothing fancy, like windage
> trays or special race baffles or anything. Let me know what you uncover.
> If anyone has a good used one, I'd be interested in it. TIA
>
> Later,
> Brew
>
> Tom Gunby wrote:
>
> > A while back, I wrinkled the oil pan on my 86 F-150 302 EFI by letting
> > it slip off a jack and would now like to replace the pan with something
> > similar to the original. Is a junk yard (I'm in Atlanta) the best
> > source (the local parts house did not have one) or is there a good
> > online source? Wonder if shipping may be too high to make it worth
> > buying mail order?
> > Thanks,
> > Tom Gunby
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 15:41:41 -0900
From: "Casey R. Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Temp fix for dead truck

I needed to move my 83 POS and compression started it. Started no
problem, driving across town to park it out of the way and this idiot
jumps through the intersection and in the process of trying to avoid him
and all the other cars while slidng sideways, I jumped on the clutch
because the wheels hit dry pavement and bogged the engine, and I caught
the parking brake with my sorels and broke the little square nut that is
welded in to hold the front of the parking break up. First question,
any ideas on how to fix this? Nothing to drill into and bolt it on.
Second Question, since the truck doesn't hesitate when I compression
start it, is it possible to completeyly isolate the starting circuit on
the truck? THere are numerous little splits in the wires that run off
to other things likes a little solenoid that the book doesn't show or
explain, and into the computer and many more... I would like to put a
very simple circuit in, battery to key to solenoid to the starter...
therby eliminating all the other stuff in the circuit and possibly
getting rid of teh problem. Any thoughts?

Thanks
Casey

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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 22:24:46 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan

Hey Guys,
If you dont want to spend the bucks for a new oil pan, repair your old one
with jb weld. that stuff is like liquid steel and it resists heat.

joe
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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 21:31:26 -0600
From: "Chuck"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Strong Brake Vibration

When I brake '92 Flareside (99600 miles), I get a strong
(noisy) vibration, Last year I put on new brake rotors,
pads, and shoes. No rear drums. I also have noisy
calipers, they seem to knock when braking. What is
causing all this?

Chuck
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ionet.net/~dtra

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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 22:42:01 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates

- - We now host the "Snake Oil" article directly after getting
permission from the publisher. This is a good article
dispelling the myths about Slick 50 and other oil treatments.
Go to the main page and click on the misc member contributions
link.

- - 30 new trucks added to the pictorial

- - 5 new links added to links pages

- - New article added to misc section (funny)

- - Event added to events section

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 23:31:26 EST
From: Bakend aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Temp fix for dead truck

In a message dated 1/24/99 5:52:57 PM Mountain Standard Time,
fscrv1 aurora.alaska.edu writes:

> Second Question, since the truck doesn't hesitate when I compression
> start it, is it possible to completeyly isolate the starting circuit on
> the truck? THere are numerous little splits in the wires that run off
> to other things likes a little solenoid that the book doesn't show or
> explain, and into the computer and many more... I would like to put a
> very simple circuit in, battery to key to solenoid to the starter...
> therby eliminating all the other stuff in the circuit and possibly
> getting rid of teh problem. Any thoughts?
I can't think of any reason you couldn't do that with a push button, solenoid,
and cables. Just feed power to the push button from the ignition switch and
cable from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter. Or you could just run
a new wire from the start terminal of the existing solenoid to a push button....


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