80-96-list-digest Thursday, January 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number 002



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 80-96 - Hard Start Problem with '86 Bronco II
FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96- Hard start problem with a BII
FTE 80-96 - re: cutting out computer
Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard Start Problem with '86 Bronco II
FTE 80-96 - Thermostats
Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostats
FTE 80-96 - Cougar help
FTE 80-96 - ford diesle website
FTE 80-96 - Truck stuck in Park
FTE 80-96 - HELP:Ignition Problem- 87 F150 w/302
RE: FTE 80-96 - Thermostats
FTE 80-96 - Automatic Hubs?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Cougar help
Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostats
FTE 80-96 - After market remote controls
Re: FTE 80-96 - After market remote controls
FTE 80-96 - Truck Beds
RE: FTE 80-96 - After market remote controls
Re: FTE 80-96 - After market remote controls
FTE 80-96 - My 1997 F250HD
Re: FTE 80-96 - My 1997 F250HD
FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster
Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster
Re: FTE 80-96 - My 1997 F250HD
Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster
Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster
Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster
Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster
Re: FTE 80-96 - After market remote controls
Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostat temperatures
Re: FTE 80-96 - Choice of thermostats -- Revisited
Re: FTE 80-96 - Choice of thermostats -- Revisited
Re: FTE 80-96 - cutting out the computer
Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster
Re: FTE 80-96 - T'stats
Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostats
Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96- cutting out the computer
FTE 80-96 - Eletronic 4X4 Switch 94 F150

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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 08:58:20 -0500
From: Dave Slotter
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Hard Start Problem with '86 Bronco II

>-----Original Message-----
>From: Dave Slotter [mailto:dave slotter.org]
>Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 11:30 AM
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard Start Problem with '86 Bronco II
>
>> Is the Air Charge Temperature (ACT) sensor the same as the Massair sensor?
>
>No. It measures the temperature of the incoming air. From this, the
>manifold pressure, and engine speed, the controller calculates the mass of
>air being taken in, and then provides the appropriate amount of fuel.
>
>This is different than a system with a dedicated mass air sensor. The mass
>air sensor provides a signal to the controller that is directly proportional
>to the amount of air taken in. Since it is on the upstream side of the
>throttle, it is less sensitive to engine modifications (cams with aggressive
>timing, etc.) which can disrupt the manifold pressure signal in a
>"speed-density" control system.

I found that out not too long after posting that message. The ACT sensor
measures the temperature and the Massair sensor measures the volume of air
flow. As far as I know, there is no Massair sensor on my '86 BII.

>> I'm going to have to read up on how the choke works on an EFI engine. I
>have very
>> little info on how exactly the carburetor has been replaced on EFI
>vehicles.
>
>Actually, there is no "choke" on an EFI engine. The purpose of the choke on
>a carburetor is to allow more vaccuum signal at the venturi to meter more
>fuel. On the EFI engine, the fuel is injected under pressure, and therefore
>the controller provides a richer mixture until the engine warms up.

If only I had thought about this a little longer I would have figured it
out. The computer opens the nozzles on the injector longer or shorter to
adjust the amount of fuel injected into the engine. The injectors also
atomize the fuel to allow for a more regular and efficient burn.

Well, this story ends on a good note. It turns out that I reseated the TPS
connector on the advice of my father-in-law because he said that the TPS
gave it starting problems before. I "knew" that the TPS was good, but I
hadn't thought about the connector having an intermittent failure which
wouldn't show up on my computer diagnostics.

It turns out that the connector isn't giving a good clean connection in
this weather and that is why I'm having starting problems.

After having reseated the TPS, the BII fired right up with no problem on
the *first* try.

Thanks for those who responded.

- -Dave Slotter
- --
mailto:dave Hellfire.DUsers.Drexel.edu
Key fingerprint = 65 C2 09 E0 FA 66 38 4F FE 4E 8B E2 4A 1C 53 03
"Great spirits often encounter violent opposition from mediocre minds."
- -Albert Einstein ICQ# 4830064 AOL/AIM ID: "DnG Pgh"
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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 06:07:01 -0800 (PST)
From: rokkinhorse webtv.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96- Hard start problem with a BII

I had a similar prob with an 88 Ranger.I also took it to Ford,who
couldn't find anything wrong,but had no problem charging me for the
visit there.Out of desperation after having this happen several times in
the same day,I replaced the TFI module for under $20 from the local
partshouse.It never happened again. On the E series problem,I would
gauge the fuel pressure at the fuel rail.If the pressure regulator is
bad,excessive fuel pressure will be the result,and a rich mixture fault
should result.Have you checked the TPS?

Randy Goolsby,LaCenter,WA.94 Bronco EB 85 F-250 4X4"the Second
Amendment guarantees all the others"
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=47

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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:51:16 -0500
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: cutting out computer

I don't remember from your original post what year your
truck was but
mine is an 86 with the I6. I removed the stock 1bbl carb and
replaced
It with a 4bbl and headers. I left the computer in tack but
I have about 3
Wires unhooked and 2 vacuum lines capped off that originally
went to
the 1bbl. The truck runs fine with these disconnected and
with no mileage
change. I think the computer uses default setting when it's
not getting a
signal from a various sensor. Just like when the engine is
cold. I'm not
positive on this but that's what I've been told and it makes
sense to me.
I would suggest doing the same to yours if you want the
4bbl. Let the
computer still control the other stuff. This will probably
give you a better
chance of passing your emissions test and I think the truck
will run better.
Hope this helps.
Mike

>>>>>>>>
I have the EEC III in my truck. From all my dealings with
it, the
computer in mine is a little before it's time. Ford was on
a good track
with the system, but I think if I could do it over again, I
would look
for a slighty older truck w/o the computer or a slightly
newer truck
with a more refined computer. I am not saying all computer
controlled
stuff is bad, I am just saying that mine is one of the
earlier ones with
computers any of the newer trucks a couple years down the
line are
probably much better suited to be computer controlled.

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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 09:51:50 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard Start Problem with '86 Bronco II

Dave Slotter wrote:

> Well, this story ends on a good note. It turns out that I reseated the TPS
> connector on the advice of my father-in-law because he said that the TPS
> gave it starting problems before. I "knew" that the TPS was good, but I
> hadn't thought about the connector having an intermittent failure which
> wouldn't show up on my computer diagnostics.

Well thats cool. I even got to learn a thing or two. Thanx guys :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 09:16:11 -0700
From: Tom Higgins
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Thermostats

I understand the arguments for keeping the stock thermostat in the EFI
engines. BUT....I live in Phoenix and my heater (if I ever need it) works
just fine. It's the AC that I'm worried about. If we keep the stock t
stat, how do we increase the cooling capacity to handle 115 degree weather
and stop and go traffic? Will supplemental electric fans and/or oil
coolers result in an engine which runs to cool if we leave the stock t
stat? Just wondering. Summers fast approaching.

Tom in Phoenix.


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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 11:41:07 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostats

...Not from where I'm standing, which lately has usually been in my
driveway under the hood of my truck. :-)

- -Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: Tom Higgins
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 11:28 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Thermostats


*snip*
Summers fast approaching.

Tom in Phoenix.


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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 11:38:55 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Cougar help

Not Ford Truck content, but is FOMOCO:
Have this friend that has an '85 Cougar with 3.8L V6. Something is
intermittently draining the battery and we suspect that the Elect fuel pump
in the tank is staying on at times. Is there a relay on this vehicle that
controls the voltage to the fuel pump??? Where is it located??? Is it
known for giving this type of problem???. We know there is a power drain
at times because both times the battery has failed, we would begin the
trouble shooting and a fairly good spark would jump when reconnecting the
pos lead to the battery and we could hear the click of a couple of relays
somewhere, but would quit after doing it a couple of times. Sure would
help to know where the relay is that controls the fuel pump, if there is
one.

TIA
Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 08:52:32 -0800
From: johny
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ford diesle website

In the event you've had serious withdrawals...

is back up.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://216.98.64.253/users/jlester/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.abol.com/users/jlester/

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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 10:03:51 -0700
From: Tom Higgins
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Truck stuck in Park

Jerry,

Had the same problem myself in Kingman. Posted it a while back but you may
have missed it. The bottom line is that you probably have burned your fuse
out on the brake lights. Ford has an interlock so that if the fuse goes,
it stays in park. Do you have a trailer, canopy or anything else wired
into the harness? Check the fuse before doing anything else. My symptoms
were identical except I was stuck in a drive through (it's a long story).
The neutral trick is a good one to know. In addition, I always carry extra
fuses of the correct amperage since this happened.

Tom in Phoenix
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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 09:27:34 PST
From: "Mitch Baghdoian"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - HELP:Ignition Problem- 87 F150 w/302

Hello everyone,

I've got an 87 F150 4x4 w/302 and manual tranny. Lately I've been
getting INTERMITTANT ignition problems, but there's no real pattern.

Description of problem (runs perfectly otherwise):

The truck is hard to start (sounds like distributor is out by 180
degrees), pings hard under load or throttle tip in, runs smoothly over
2500 rpm or so (as long as there's no load).

It has occured: on cold start, on hot start, while driving, while
idling, while it is dry out, while it is wet out. The truck has been
sitting most of the summer, so that might have something to do with it.

I've heard that it might be the ignition module. How can I test this w/o
spending $40 to swap it out?

Thanx,
- -Mitch in MI

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 10:22:42 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Thermostats

Tom,

Don't know what year or model you have but I would think that you could
replace your thermostat in your case but like everyone said, don't go below
a 160 degree one. All of the options you mentioned are good ones. Another
you might consider is to put on a cat-back dual exhaust, that cools the
engine and the body of the truck from the trapped heat. If you have a auto
transmission a transmission cooler will provide the best insurance you can
buy and dissipate some heat from the entire system in the process.

The thermostat in EFI systems, besides what it does to the computer, works
basically the same as with a non-EFI system and keeps the motor at an
optimal temperature range for fuel efficiency. If you live in a tropical
climate, the motor will not have far to go to come up to temperature like it
would in a climate where the temperature drops to 0 degrees. In the days of
non-EFI systems we would just remove the thermostat when we lived near
Phoenix, heaters are not used, heating the engine was no problem and the
heat off the motor just makes cooling the cabin harder, but I would not
recommend that with EFI without knowing more about your vehicle. If you
decide to replace the thermostat just remember to change it back if you ever
sell it or travel to a colder climate. I never had a EFI system when I was
there but if I did I would not hesitate to experiment a little by replacing
it with a cooler one and see how it runs. The reason I say that is by adding
a secondary cooling system with a high temp thermostat will cause the motor
to cycle from hot to cool too quickly and temperature cycling is very hard
on a motor, you want the motor to stay at an even temperature and leave it
there. The thermostat and your secondary cooling will conflict with each
other, one is trying to keep the motor cool and the other is heating it up.
This will be more pronounced in a hot environment and not a problem in a
cooler one. The thermostat will be opening and closing at a faster rate do
to the secondary cooling system suddenly dropping the temperature in when
the thermostat finally opens.

If you decide to leave the stock thermostat in I would recommend a passive
cooling system, like a transmission cooler, a cooler running exhaust system,
or a engine oil cooler. Adding a fan or a larger radiator would be the same
as putting in a lower temp thermostat but the temperature cycling will be
more and I would think that would confuse the EFI temperature sensor even
more. Going to a lower temp thermostat will not require a secondary cooling
system (other than the automatic transmission cooler which everyone should
have) if your EFI will continue to run without trouble. I personally would
put in a 160 degree thermostat and see how it runs in the summer if anything
just to see what it does to the EFI. People need to understand that the
environment you live in is very different than just about every where else.
With the outside ambient temperature as high as it is there, things are just
naturally hotter all the time and your motor is running with the thermostat
open most of the time anyway.

I have seen some switched and/or restrictive bypass tubes for the thermostat
you can add on vehicles but I am not sure where I saw them at. I have also
heard of people drilling holes in the valve plate in the stock thermostats
to allow a little coolant to flow past the thermostat to reduce the
temperature transitions I mentioned but this is all very tricky to get right
and requires a little experimentation or finding someone who has done it to
your exact vehicle.

Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Tom Higgins [SMTP:thiggins samaritan.edu]
> Sent:Wednesday, January 06, 1999 9:16 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - Thermostats
>
> I understand the arguments for keeping the stock thermostat in the EFI
> engines. BUT....I live in Phoenix and my heater (if I ever need it) works
> just fine. It's the AC that I'm worried about. If we keep the stock t
> stat, how do we increase the cooling capacity to handle 115 degree weather
> and stop and go traffic? Will supplemental electric fans and/or oil
> coolers result in an engine which runs to cool if we leave the stock t
> stat? Just wondering. Summers fast approaching.
>
> Tom in Phoenix.
>
>
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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 10:33:35 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Automatic Hubs?

Anyone know where I can get a good set of automatic hubs?

I see lots of manual ones in the parts catalogs but no automatic hubs. I
have manual now and I know they are more reliable but I am getting sick of
pulling over and locking them.

Scott
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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:38:16 -0800
From: "LanceS"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Cougar help

The Ele. Fuel pump runs on battery while the car is off and it will kill
the car. T-birds have the same problems. You can do one of two things
you can either buy the replacement parts which as I recall cost right
around $130 or you can disconnect the wires from the fuel pump and splice
in
a switch of course routed under the dash, this cost about $8.

Lance
87 Bronco 5.0 AOD
93 T-Bird 3.8
72 Mustang Convt. 302 C4
- -----Original Message-----
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 8:56 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Cougar help


>Not Ford Truck content, but is FOMOCO:
>Have this friend that has an '85 Cougar with 3.8L V6. Something is
>intermittently draining the battery and we suspect that the Elect fuel pump
>in the tank is staying on at times. Is there a relay on this vehicle that
>controls the voltage to the fuel pump??? Where is it located??? Is it
>known for giving this type of problem???. We know there is a power drain
>at times because both times the battery has failed, we would begin the
>trouble shooting and a fairly good spark would jump when reconnecting the
>pos lead to the battery and we could hear the click of a couple of relays
>somewhere, but would quit after doing it a couple of times. Sure would
>help to know where the relay is that controls the fuel pump, if there is
>one.
>
>TIA
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>
>
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>

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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 12:43:11 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostats

Tom Higgins wrote:
>
> I understand the arguments for keeping the stock thermostat in the EFI
> engines. BUT....I live in Phoenix and my heater (if I ever need it) works
> just fine. It's the AC that I'm worried about. If we keep the stock t
> stat, how do we increase the cooling capacity to handle 115 degree weather
> and stop and go traffic?
>
If the A/C condenser (or is it the evaporator? always get them mixed up)
is in front of the rad, then changing the termostat will have no effect
at all. The condenser(evaporator?) will be getting the coolest air it
can, which is freshly past the blue oval in the grille.

> Will supplemental electric fans and/or oil
> coolers result in an engine which runs to cool if we leave the stock t
> stat? Just wondering. Summers fast approaching.
>

supposed to be another 10cm falling> Summer? Wazzat?

- --
Andre
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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 12:46:15 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - After market remote controls

Can anyone point me to any sources of add-on remote controls for door locks
and interior lights? Anyone know of any good ones? No, this isn't for my
Ford truck. It's for my wife's minivan.
Thanks. David Anderson
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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 14:11:51 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - After market remote controls

Go to www.partsexpress.com and check out their website. Order the catalog and
in it you'll find a vast amount of supplies you can use for your truck and
remote controls of different varieties.
Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 14:16:11 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Truck Beds

A while back there was a discussion about truck bed prices and I
mentioned that there was a place by me that did conversions and had several
"spare parts" available for purchase. Some people requested further
information, so I made it over to the shop today for some pricing and
whatnot. Here's what I found.
Since most of the work they is for the local dealerships, the beds that
they have are for the new body styles. Same thing for the tailgates. The
prices that they told me were "around $1000 for a complete bed." I'm not
sure if "complete" includes the tailgate or not.
It's Monmouth Truck Equipment (or something like that) located in
Shrewsbury, NJ. It's near Red Bank and Middletown for those who might not
know the immediate area but want to find it on a map.
Hope this was of some help.

- -Mike


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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 12:23:20 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - After market remote controls

David,

The only one I could find for my truck was in J.C.Whitney and was the Design
Tech model. It also had the remote starter feature with it. The Design Tech
has a model for just the door locks and I would recommend it but I don't
know if it lights up the interior lights. This is the same model sold in the
Performance Products catalogs but at half the price. I was told by a friend
who had installed just the remote starter model that it only came with a one
button transmitter. The model I purchased that starts the truck, opens the
doors, turns the alarm on and off, and will control any light comes with a
three button transmitter. I can also use program it to disable the starter
if I wanted to add one more relay and wire it up. To add an alarm you will
have to buy the siren, motion/shock sensor extra and add a few more relays.
They sell all the components for the alarm for about 79 bucks. It comes with
a little antenna so the range is really far if you mount the antenna
correctly on the edge of the windshield. The model with the car starter is
very difficult to install, you have to cut through all of your wires going
to the ignition switch. Any local auto sound shop will install it for you
for a large amount of money. There are some other models that will only open
your door locks for under fifty bucks. The lady friend of mine that had one
installed really likes the remote car starter. She does not have a garage
and likes the car warmed up before she gets in it. Installing the door
opener part of the Design Tech was very easy. They have a web site at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.designtech-intl.com/

They also have all information on the wiring of your vehicle on their web
site.

Scott

> Can anyone point me to any sources of add-on remote controls for door
> locks
> and interior lights? Anyone know of any good ones? No, this isn't for my
> Ford truck. It's for my wife's minivan.
> Thanks. David Anderson
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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 13:51:13 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - After market remote controls

Giddens, Scott wrote:

> David,
>
> The only one I could find for my truck was in J.C.Whitney and was the Design
> Tech model. It also had the remote starter feature with it. The Design Tech
> has a model for just the door locks and I would recommend it but I don't
> know if it lights up the interior lights.

Sheeeeeesh. Doesn't it even tell you what color underwear to wear. :-)

On a more serious note. Just out of curiosity, what happens
if you have a manual tranny ? Or do you always keep the
emergency brake on and tranny in neutral. As well as,
there is supposed to be someone to hold in the clutch before
you get ignition. What about that ?
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 14:47:05 -0500
From: Jason DiSalvo
Subject: FTE 80-96 - My 1997 F250HD

Hey, Happy Holidays Everyone. Just a quick question. I have a 1997 F250HD I
got is 7months ago from a dealer (A leftover) The truck pulls to the right.
So i took it to the dealer to fix, they said that they adjusted it the
other way. Now the truck pulls to the left. I got the run around. Also the
right front tire wore all the way around even. What do you think? Also do
es anyone know if they make a engine block heater for my truck. 1997F250HD
5.8L Auto?

Thanks
jason

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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 14:13:47 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - My 1997 F250HD

Jason DiSalvo wrote:

> Hey, Happy Holidays Everyone. Just a quick question. I have a 1997 F250HD I
> got is 7months ago from a dealer (A leftover) The truck pulls to the right.
> So i took it to the dealer to fix, they said that they adjusted it the

Ball-joints for the uneven wear.

If the truck only pulls when you brake, then check the opposite
side rear brakes. Check for brake lining tightness as opposed to
the other rear braking wheel. Make sure there is no fluid or axle
grease on the pads. That will cause one set of rear brakes to
brake harder quicker than the other side.

If it pulls no matter what then also have the tierod-ends checked.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)


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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 13:15:14 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster

Hi everyone, I wrote awhile back about my '93 F350 4x4 crew cab w/ a 4"
superlift and 37" tires haveing a rear wheel shudder. I brought it to
the local driveline place and they replaced the center bearing and
checked the pinion angle. The anlge was good and they determined that
the problem was axle wrap. While the truck is in park I can take the
top of the rear wheel and rock it back and forth and watch the front of
the pumpkin move about 2". I looked into ladder bars but no one (that
I've found anyway) makes a set for it. What I've decided to do is
remove the superlift rear block and have my stock springs re-arched and
a leaf or two added. I've talked to a few suspension manufacturers and
they've agreed that this would and should eliminate my wheel hop. I'll
let you know when the work is completed.

I've been seeing alot of posts of guys reading their codes. Is there a
relatively inexpensive (

One more question, my torque converter seems to lock up too soon. I
have a 460 w/ E4OD tranny and I try to be energy conservative when
taking off from a stop because my mileage sucks. The torque converter
sometimes locks right after the tranny shifts into second. It's almost
at the same instant as the shift. It seems like it's putting the engine
into a lugging mode when it does this. If I'm on the pedal a bit harder
it doesn't lock as soon. Is it because I'm being gentle on acceleration
or is there something else I should look at?

OK, one more question, I have a K+N filter on my truck. It was
installed by the previous owner. Anyone have comments on performance
gains or potential problems with the K+N?

OK, one more question, should I add a Hypertech or other aftermarket
chip? What will it do to my mileage? Any performance gains? Would it
help my torque converter lock-up problem?

OK, one last question, I'd really like to upgrade my exhaust system.
The truck sounds wimpy with the stock exhaust. What is the lists
recommendation on this? What exactly is a cat-back system? Does it
just replace components from the catalytic converter back?

I know that there are alot of questions here but if you can help on any
or all of them I'd appreciate your comments.

Thanks,

Dana Bartholomew
Siegfried and Roy Theater
Mirage Hotel
Las Vegas, NV
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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 16:46:34 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster

Dana,

You answered your own question as to what a cat-back exhaust system is.
I haven't yet replaced the exhaust system on my truck, but I have my
opinions as to what I'm going to get. Once it rusts out and gives me an
excuse to dump money into it, I'm going to pick up a Borla cat-back system.
I realize that it's going to be pricey, but I like the idea of the stainless
steel since it should last as long as the truck does. I have an uncle that
put the Borla headers and exhaust on his dopey little four cylinder Jeep and
saw a very dramatic improvement in performance, so that got me thinking. I
was also impressed that it was able to make his four-banger sound mean.
I like the thought of getting what I want and only having to buy it
once. This route will cost a little more, but it's only a one-shot deal.
But that's just my opinion...

- -Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dana Bartholomew
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 4:27 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech,
flowmaster


OK, one last question, I'd really like to upgrade my exhaust system.
The truck sounds wimpy with the stock exhaust. What is the lists
recommendation on this? What exactly is a cat-back system? Does it
just replace components from the catalytic converter back?


Dana Bartholomew
Siegfried and Roy Theater
Mirage Hotel
Las Vegas, NV
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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 17:15:56 -0500
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - My 1997 F250HD

>Hey, Happy Holidays Everyone. Just a quick question. I have a 1997 F250HD I
>got is 7months ago from a dealer (A leftover) The truck pulls to the right.
>So i took it to the dealer to fix, they said that they adjusted it the
>other way. Now the truck pulls to the left. I got the run around. Also the
>right front tire wore all the way around even. What do you think? Also do
>es anyone know if they make a engine block heater for my truck. 1997F250HD
>5.8L Auto?
>
>Thanks
>jason
Sounds like an alignment problem, probably camber. But it could be a tire.
If the shop made no other "adjustments" other than to switch the front
tires, it could be the tires.
Yes, they make a block heater for your truck. But check first, you might
already have one. All trucks destined for Canada or the northern States get
block heaters from the factory. It looks like you are in NY,(a northern
state is my guess) so poke around the front of the truck and see if you can
find the cable or plug.

Matt

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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 17:22:49 EST
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster

Dana,

I have a 1991 Ford F-250 Pickup, 460 motor, 3:55 gears, and E4OD tranny. The
problem with your torque converter lockup may be a sign of your transmission
ready to go out. I really doubt that it is because normally only the diesels
chew those E4OD trannys up. I would try unhooking your battery cables
overnight and letting yoru computer drain itself of all memory. (If you
haven't had those big tires on there for verylong the truck may be used to it
with the stock tires and therefore the computer may (remember) a different
shift style.) The the next day put your cables back on and start your truck
up and let it idle for 5 minutes or so so it can (re learn) its idle. Then
drive it like you normaaly would so the computer will adapt to your driving
habits.

The exhaust is a different story. It depends whether you like loud exhaust
or just a quiet deep tone. What I did to my truck is had the stock catback
exhaust cuttoff, then had a (y-dual) system put on. (its where they build a
"y" pipe behind your converter and have 2 separate exhaust pipes coming out
the back or sides). I added two three and a half chrome tips put on the ends
of the exhaust to make it look nice. It has a good loud deep tone to it if
you do that. The 460 will definatly sound different than a 302 or 351. I
ended up taking my converter off and had two 18 inch long glass packs welded
in. I don't know if yo ucan do that on your truck it or not cause its newer,
and because of local emission laws. I thinkyou will be just happy with a "y"
pipe behind the converter and two pipes out the back.

If yo get this message e-mail me back with your comments of what you think.

Paul
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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 17:32:52 -0500
From: Dave Slotter
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster

>I've been seeing alot of posts of guys reading their codes. Is there a
>relatively inexpensive (

The EEC-IV can be read using a 12 Volt test lamp and a piece of wire. Cost
is less than $5. If you want to be more elaborate, you can buy a Sunpro
tester for $30, but it's basically a 12 Volt test lamp, a piece of wire, a
plastic case and a couple special connectors. It's not worth it in my
opinion.

>OK, one more question, I have a K+N filter on my truck. It was
>installed by the previous owner. Anyone have comments on performance
>gains or potential problems with the K+N?

The K+N air filter can provide better air flow than many off the shelf air
filters. However, you have to keep it clean... ;-)

>OK, one more question, should I add a Hypertech or other aftermarket
>chip? What will it do to my mileage? Any performance gains? Would it
>help my torque converter lock-up problem?

Many performance-oriented aftermarket chips will decrease your gas mileage
to some extent. The extent will depend on how heavy your foot gets after
installing the chip! I don't see how it could fix your torque converter
problem. In fact, I would expect that it would likely make any existing
mechanical problems worse.

>OK, one last question, I'd really like to upgrade my exhaust system.
>The truck sounds wimpy with the stock exhaust. What is the lists
>recommendation on this? What exactly is a cat-back system? Does it
>just replace components from the catalytic converter back?

A CAT-back system is all the components "behind" the catalytic converter.
For trucks with two catalytic converters I do not know what that would
mean. Typically you have straight and bent pipe plus a muffler plus on some
performance vehicles a secondary muffler such as a Cherrybom(sp?). Some
people also install cosmetic tips which are commonly chrome.

>I know that there are alot of questions here but if you can help on any
>or all of them I'd appreciate your comments.

Sometimes it might be best to post such different questions in separate
messages.

>Thanks,
>
>Dana Bartholomew
>Siegfried and Roy Theater
>Mirage Hotel
>Las Vegas, NV
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Hope this helps. Good luck.

- -Dave
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 18:32:36 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster

OK. On the code reader, you can just use a test light, or an analog multimeter
to read your trucks trouble codes. Or you can buy an Actron brand code reader
from any PepBoys or AutoZone or a similar do-it-yourself parts chain. On the
KnN filter, I personally have had great experience with these filters, but we
had HUGE flame war about this subject, we DON 'T want to start that thread
again. On chips, I personally am a diehard SUPERCHIPS fan. I have upgraded my
truck several times since I bought it and have had no complaints, as
SUPERCHIPS will upgrade the programming for you to accommodate the upgrades,
and it is lifetime guaranteed. On the exhaust, you are correct. A CAT back
system is exactly that, from the catalytic convertor back. There are several
manufacturers out there. Just be sure you listen to as many different type of
systems so that you can hear how they each sound and decide for yourself what
you like. By the way a good set of headers would make a huge difference in
performance for you to. Oh and one more thing, since your vehicle is over 5
years old you can change out the catalytic convertor too, and put on a higher
flowing unit without fear of legalities. On the E40D trans....well the quick
lock up could be caused by several different factors including sensor readings
and other computer factors. Take it to a good transmission shop and have them
run a trans. diagnostic on it.
I hope that this helps,
Wayne Foy
'94 F150 Flareside Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/auto/index.htm
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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 18:50:43 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster

Michael J. Pasznik, Jr. wrote:
>
> Dana,
>
> You answered your own question as to what a cat-back exhaust system is.
> I haven't yet replaced the exhaust system on my truck, but I have my
> opinions as to what I'm going to get. Once it rusts out and gives me an
> excuse to dump money into it, I'm going to pick up a Borla cat-back system.
> I realize that it's going to be pricey, but I like the idea of the stainless
> steel since it should last as long as the truck does. I have an uncle that
> put the Borla headers and exhaust on his dopey little four cylinder Jeep and
> saw a very dramatic improvement in performance, so that got me thinking. I
> was also impressed that it was able to make his four-banger sound mean.
> I like the thought of getting what I want and only having to buy it
> once. This route will cost a little more, but it's only a one-shot deal.
> But that's just my opinion...
>
> -Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dana Bartholomew
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 4:27 PM
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech,
> flowmaster
>
> OK, one last question, I'd really like to upgrade my exhaust system.
> The truck sounds wimpy with the stock exhaust. What is the lists
> recommendation on this? What exactly is a cat-back system? Does it
> just replace components from the catalytic converter back?
>

I put the Borla Nastruck exhaust system on my Lightning and yes the name
tells you how it sounds. I LOVE IT!!!
Chris
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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 19:35:12 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - After market remote controls

Rick,

A friend of mine bought a remote starter for his 5 speed F150. He had a
Hell of a time finding one for a manual transmission, and no installer
would sell him one, claiming they don't exist. The wiring harness ties
into the parking brake, clutch switch, etc. There is a specific
procedure for shutting the truck off. In fact, if you don't have your
foot off the clutch when you shut the truck down, the remote won't
work. This ensures that it is in neutral. Then, the system overrides
the clutch/starter interlock to start it.

I hope it never gets confused!

Steve
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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 19:42:13 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostat temperatures

Sorry, but I am a self- educated shade tree mechanic. I just carried it
a little further!

Steve

Radoje Spasojevic wrote:
>
> I agree with Andre, it is nice to hear from someone who is not one of us
> "self-educated" shade tree mechanics...tell us everything there is to know
> about thermostats, please.
>
> Rade

[snip]
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 19:50:18 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Choice of thermostats -- Revisited

Mike,

I forgot what truck and engine you have. Refresh my memory. Cycling is
generally a cooling system design problem. Air in the system can also
cause it, but that is not likely in your case with multiple thermostat
changes. Sometimes it can be controlled the thermostat, but not always.

Steve

Michael J. Pasznik, Jr. wrote:
>
> Listarians,
>
> I braved the weather last night and changed the thermostat back to a
> higher temp one, on, well, *everybody's* recommendation. All is now fine
> and good, but I'm now back to where I was when I first started the job. The
> thing that prompted me to believe that the thermostat was on its way out was
> that the temperature gauge would fluctuate a good eighth to a quarter of the
> dial constantly. It didn't matter if I was idling, cruising around town, or
> on the highway, I could sit there and watch it creep up and then drop back
> down every 90 seconds or so. Maybe it's normal and I just never noticed it
> before, but I never remember that happening on any other vehicle I've owned.
> So I changed the t-stat to the lower temp one and had the same problem,
> only it was happening at a lower temp. (duh!) Now I'm back to the normal
> temp t-stat and am still seeing the same thing.
> So, it's obviously not the thermostat. Would this be considered normal
> behavior (the truck's, not mine) or is it a sign of something else on the
> verge of going bad?
>
> As always, thanks in advance.
>
> -Mike
>
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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 20:00:34 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Choice of thermostats -- Revisited

Dave brings up a lot of good points. The gauge comments are correct.
The practice of using gauges with wide "dead-bands" is pretty universal,
especially with Japanese cars. GM gauges are more accurate. GM
engineers have tried very hard to get the marketing people to let them
dampen the gauges and remove the numbers.

Dave, did your Pontiac have a 3800 V-6? THAT one was a bear to correct.

Steve


Baldwin, Dave wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> I had a Pontiac that did this too, so I know what you're talking about.
> Some comments from the thermostat expert might be good here, but I know that
> there is some difference between the temperature where the t-stat starts to
> open and when it is wide open. Also, the t-stat only controls the
> temperature at the thermostat itself, so if the temp sender is located in a
> different place, you are observing the temperature at a different place in
> the engine.
>
> I think you would find quite a lot of variance in coolant temperature at
> different places in the engine. Since cooled water comes in at the front
> and the hot coolant leaves from the front, it seems that the cylinders at
> the rear of the block are likely to be running at higher temperatures than
> the fronts since the impedance to flow is higher in those rear cylinders
> than in the front. I don't think there is much that you can do to change
> this, unless you fill the block with concrete like sleddog does!
>
> Ford has played some tricks with instrumentation, which continues to this
> day. People don't like to see fluctuation like you're seeing, so they
> "adjust" the characteristics of the gauges so that they have a large "flat
> spot" where the needle position doesn't change between something like 160F
> and 220F. They employed different circuitry to do this in different models
> and different years, and in some it is likely that none of this
> "conditioning" was done. I don't know when this practice started, but at
> least by the early '90s.
>
> By the way, that Pontiac that I had blew a head gasket at 50K miles. Always
> wondered if that temperature cycling had something to do with it...but I'll
> never know.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Baldwin
> Dallas, TX
>
[snip]
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 18:06:44 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - cutting out the computer

>From: rokkinhorse webtv.net
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 80-96- cutting out the computer
>
>Sure,simplicity is
>good,but so is efficiency.Simplicity will not pay you
>back in fuel dollars saved,OTOH increased fuel
>efficiency will.That computer on the EEC4 & 5 trucks
>
Yo Randy:

Just another (paranoid weirdo) perspective...

I like fuel efficiency, but when it comes to computers, I don't think I'd
trust one much farther out than the edge of cell phone range. I have had
an EEC-IV vehicle strand me with a completely dead ECU. I have also had an
EEC-IV vehicle w/ a flaky TFI module act up so bad (intermittently) that it
was simply unreliable for all but emergency use. Both of those problems
cost a lot of dollars and time to troubleshoot and eventually solve.

I personally would never drive a computer-controlled vehicle without a cell
phone or (if I didn't want a tow home) at least a spare ECU and TFI module.
And that doesn't even address the other types of complicated problems that
can crop up w/ a computerized vehicle.

Simplicity may not pay me back w/ fuel savings over a computer controlled
engine, but I can carry less than $100 worth of spare parts in a bin behind
the seat and solve just about any possible electrical/ignition/fuel system
failure on my old-fashioned, carbureted DuraSpark II truck in less than an
hour, no matter how far away from "civilization" I am and no matter what
the weather conditions are. I guess the payback for me is stone-solid
reliability and ease of repair when something does go wrong at the worst
possible time.

That said, if your truck is equipped w/ a computerized engine control
system from the factory, you cannot remove the computer and its peripherals
and maintain emissions legality. Electronic engine management systems are
considered part of the emissions control equipment on a vehicle and
removing them would be analogous to removing the catalytic converter and
probably get you in just as much trouble w/ the smog Nazis.

>Not understanding how something works is not a
>good reason to throw it in the garbage IMNSHO.

You are right about that and about the Constitution.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 17:19:03 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster

FLR150 aol.com wrote:
>
> On chips, I personally am a diehard SUPERCHIPS fan.

Is SUPERCHIPS a brand name? Any suppliers you'd recommend?


> A CAT back system is exactly that, from the catalytic convertor back. There > >are several manufacturers out there. Just be sure you listen to as many

> By the way a good set of headers would make a huge difference in
> performance for you to. Oh and one more thing, since your vehicle is over 5
> years old you can change out the catalytic convertor too, and put on a higher
> flowing unit without fear of legalities.

Can I go to any muffler shop(Midas, Mieneke, etc)and find Borla, or
Flowmaster or is it something that would be best found at a performance
shop? What about headers, speed shop or Midas?


> On the E40D trans....well the quick
> lock up could be caused by several different factors including sensor readings
> and other computer factors. Take it to a good transmission shop and have them
> run a trans. diagnostic on it.

I know a good tranny shop, I'll bring it in and have them check it out.]

Thanks alot for everyone's input. I just sold my '77 F-150 4x4 so I'm
playing with my new one. Once I get the truck set up the way I want I
promise to be less of a nuisance and I may even have some helpful
experiences of my own.

Thanks again,

Dana Bartholomew
Siegfired and Roy Theater
Mirage Hotel
Las Vegas, NV
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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 20:13:55 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - T'stats

Azie,

Actually, it's Steve!

I am not aware of anyone using aluminum for thermostat sheetmetal. Most
are a low grade stainless steel. Robertshaw makes some brass ones
(their Generation 2 line), but the brass is for cosmetic purposes.
There are some thermostat on the market that are only good for a couple
of years. They open early, or stick open, as a result of coolant
intrusion.

I would stay with the more expensive ones (Advertisement: Superstats!),
but don't let the appearance of the brass sway you.

By the way, I am very partial to 440 Mopars, and used to be able to
rebuild a Carter TQ in my sleep!

Steve

am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:
>
> John Spaulding writes: >>Up until recently, I was Product Engineering
> Manager for
> Standard-Thomson Corporation. This company is a part of Stant
> Corporation, which falls under the Gates Rubber umbrella.
>
> STC is the largest manufacturer of thermostats in the world. We supply
> Original Equipment and OE Service thermostats to Ford, GM, DDC, Mack,
> Caterpillar, etc. Our engineers work directly with their engineers. We
> also supply Stant, Gates, NAPA, Carquest, and many other aftermarket
> labels.
>
> Yo John. I have a question for you and hope I don't Tee off anyone for the
> Non-FOMOCO references. I work for DaimlerChrysler and of course drive
> Chrysler cars/trucks. My 1st love however is, and will always remain,
> Ford trucks of the '73-'79 years. My question to you has to do with the
> MOPAR's. Lately I usually buy T'stats from AutoZone - Carport - or
> whatever is cheaper, but am having some very serious thoughts about going
> another route. The last T'stat I bought was just last week for a '90
> Dakota. I purchased a Brass one because the cheap aluminum ones seem to
> last only a year or so and usually stick in the open position. They
> usually cost only a couple of bucks, and I gave nearly $10 for the Brass
> one. Do you have an opinion as to why the cheaper versions as sold by
> AutoZone - Carport etc., do not last. Seems like back in the 50's and 60's
> the t'stats lasted forever in relation to todays. Are the more expensive
> T'stats worth it, and why?? I guess I've rambled enough.
>
> TIA.
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.
>
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Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 20:23:10 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostats

Tom,

Unless your radiator is dirty (inside or out), you should be OK.
Automakers spend a lot of time in the desert before they release a
cooling system to production. Supplemental fans and coolers can help.
I think your best bet would be to add an external transmission cooler in
series with the in-tank transmission cooler. This will help with
cooling in general, and will definitely increase your transmission life.

I could use a little 115 heat right now.

Steve

Tom Higgins wrote:
>
> I understand the arguments for keeping the stock thermostat in the EFI
> engines. BUT....I live in Phoenix and my heater (if I ever need it) works
> just fine. It's the AC that I'm worried about. If we keep the stock t
> stat, how do we increase the cooling capacity to handle 115 degree weather
> and stop and go traffic? Will supplemental electric fans and/or oil
> coolers result in an engine which runs to cool if we leave the stock t
> stat? Just wondering. Summers fast approaching.
>
> Tom in Phoenix.
>
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Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 20:52:24 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Axle wrap, code reader, tranny, K+N, hypertech, flowmaster

Dana,
Probably the best place to go to find out about a chip for your truck would be
their website. Its at www.superchips.com, And on the muffler system and
headers, yes you can go to Midas or Meinekie for whatever manufacturer they
prefer. They all use different brands and will try to push those on you.
That's why I suggested trying to listen to as many different brands and find
the one, on a similar truck and motor, that sounds the best to you. THEN go....


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