80-96-list-digest Sunday, January 24 1999 Volume 03 : Number 019



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - my f150
Re: FTE 80-96 - my f150
FTE 80-96 - Brake Job
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...
Re: FTE 80-96 - TC lock-up disable
FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking
FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead Truck
FTE 80-96 - RE: stupid bell?
FTE 80-96 - Help! rainy day 460
Re: FTE 80-96 - TC lock-up disable
FTE 80-96 - Brakes
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brakes
FTE 80-96 - Mushy brake pedal
Re: FTE 80-96 - Mushy brake pedal
Re: FTE 80-96 - Help! rainy day 460
Re: FTE 80-96 - TC lock-up disable
Re: FTE 80-96 - TC lock-up disable
Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap
FTE 80-96 - Re: Dual Gas Tank Leak
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking
Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap
Re: FTE 80-96 - my f150
FTE 80-96 - Help ! 1976 351 very hard start when cold
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking
FTE 80-96 - Oil Pan

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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 06:59:51 -0600 (CST)
From: jsg76 webtv.net (shane griffin)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - my f150

ok, i'd like to start by saying i am a new member. i have been receiving
this post for about a week now and i have to say that u guys seem to be
some of the most helpful group of people i've ever saw before. no one
goes away without some sort of response in an effort to help them. i am
proud to have joined this posting.

ok now brace yourselves for my stupidity that i am about to reveal. i
own a 91 ford f150 heavy half with a in line six cylinder. is this motor
the 300 i6 i see referred to so often. also i have posted already on my
first day here about my engine light coming on for no predetermined
reason and the terrible gas mileage it gets while the light is on. i
receivedsome responses but my ignorance keeps me from making use of
them. one such suggesstion given was the oxygen sensor may be bad. where
would that be located on the truck? another was to run the codes . i
assume there is peice of equipment i need to buy for this. not to
mention a way to hook all this up to do it with. could someone give me
an idea how to get started doing this and some knowledge on te codes?
oh by the way the engine is efi if that may help with further
suggestions. lastly my front end seems to be kinda noisy i guess is the
word . is this common in fords? i know the tie rods need to be replaced
but would this cause a sqeaky and rattling type noise? if i buy the dyi
books willit help me to understand more about these questions? i'm sorry
i ran so long but as u can see i have very basic autorepair knowledge.
any thing u guys can help me with would be greatly appreciated. thanks
in advance for any responses

jsg webtv.net

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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 09:51:51 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - my f150

shane griffin wrote:

>

> own a 91 ford f150 heavy half with a in line six cylinder. is this motor
> the 300 i6 i see referred to so often.
>
Yup.

> also i have posted already on my
> first day here about my engine light coming on for no predetermined
> reason and the terrible gas mileage it gets while the light is on. i
> receivedsome responses but my ignorance keeps me from making use of
> them. one such suggesstion given was the oxygen sensor may be bad. where
> would that be located on the truck?
>
My 300CID is much earlier, but the normal place for an oxygen sensor is
the exaust manifold. Look for something screwed into the manifold or the
exaust pipe shortly after the manifold. It should have a small cable
attached to it. That's the O2 sensort.



> another was to run the codes . i
> assume there is peice of equipment i need to buy for this.
>
See:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html



> not to
> mention a way to hook all this up to do it with. could someone give me
> an idea how to get started doing this and some knowledge on te codes?
>
You can buy equipment from $20.00 or so and up. _WAY_ up. Thousands of
dollars.

> lastly my front end seems to be kinda noisy i guess is the
> word . is this common in fords?
>
It is on mine! ;-)


- --
Andre
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 10:43:15 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brake Job

Am trying to inspect the brakes on my 86 F-150 to see if they need pads
and / or rebuild. Found a helpful link at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.classic truckshop. com/brake_rebuild1.htm that says to "adjust
all the brakes down prior to removing the drums to allow the linings to
clear the drum for removal". How do I "adjust all the brakes down"?
Thank you.
Tom Gunby

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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 10:42:49 EST
From: Bakend aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...

In a message dated 1/21/99 6:53:49 PM Mountain Standard Time,
fscrv1 aurora.alaska.edu writes:

> For those of you with Ford's that run... May they run longer than mine
Sorry to here that Casey. Can't say that I disagree though after all it put
you through! Must have been a lemon to begin with. Don't let it sour you on
all Fords though cause you will have the same and worse problems with other
makes too!
Good luck on your next one!
Dennis Baken
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 11:16:46 EST
From: CMYRED1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - TC lock-up disable

DO YOU THINK THIS WILL WORK ON 95PS?
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 12:17:13 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking

The frame-mounted fuel pump has four lines in from the rear (two from
each tank) and two lines out to the front (one to the fuel filter the
other up into the engine compartment). I can disconnect the front two
lines and a couple of drops of gas leaks out. If I disconnect either of
the rear lines, gas flows out and apparently will continue to do so
until the particular tank is empty (I caught a gallon trying to see if
the "line would empty" but it kept flowing). Tried raising the end of
the line to see if it was draining by gravity but it continued to flow.
Tried disconnecting the battery to see if somehow the electric pump was
maintaining pressure but the gas still flowed out of the disconnected
line. Was unable to find any type of fuel shut-off and I need to stop
the flow of gas to remove the defective pump. Thought about clamping
off the lines but they are very thick. Sure would appreciate some
insight on this one.
Thank you.
Tom Gunby

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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 08:46:27 -0900
From: "Casey R. Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead Truck

I appreciate all the support, and I hae to give up on the thing for now,
but it is just running me broke to try and keep it running. I can't
keep a job becasue this thing dies on me so much and can't get to work
on time. I need something that will start when I turn the key, whether
thats at 1:00 in the afternoon or 1:00 in the morning, -40 below or 80
degrees out. This truck is just not dependable. I am not writing ford
out of my books, but this is going to have to become a project ford
rather than my daily driver.

Thanks,
Casey

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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 12:13:49 -0800
From: "Posluszny, Walt (POSL)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: stupid bell?

Date:Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:38:56 -0500 (EST)
From:Speed Racer
>
Subject:FTE 80-96 - New to the list.
[snip]
2.You know that stupid bell that goes off when you open your
door with the headlights on? My rings whenever the doors is open. Anytime.
Any idea where I could find the source of the problem?[snip]
Trenton Munsell

Trenton...this sounds like a ign. key switch going out. After
truning off you ign. Wiggle the key a bit and see if you can get the chime
to stop ringing that "stupid bell".

Walt
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 15:28:36 EST
From: Metalsped aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Help! rainy day 460

I own a '89 F-350 w/ a 460. When it rains, I seem to lose a cylinder and the
engine sputters. I was told by a buddy of mine that I might have a vacuum leak
somewhere and it is pulling the moisture in. I don't know. Any information
would be helpful.
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 16:32:19 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - TC lock-up disable

Dana Bartholomew wrote:
>
> So I put in the switch to disable my TC lock-up on my '93 F350 w/ E4OD
> today.
>
> In the last post I described the process to do it. I tried to find the
> purple with white tracer wire in the harness from the EEC but was unable
> to locate it. I called ATO to ask if they could be more specific as to
> the location. I spoke to the technician that does the actual work and
> he said finding and tying inot the wire there is a pain in the ass.
> Here's where to look. The harness plugs into the tranny on the right
> hand side. Follow the harness along, it probably goes up over the
> tranny. It runs along the cross-member and has a short hard plastic
> loom over it, not the flex type loom but a hard plastic shield. This
> was located just under the driver side of the trans on my truck. This
> plastic sheild is a good indication that you have the right harness.
> Follow it along to the driver side frame rail and look for a place to
> access it and open it up. There are a bunch of wires in there, 15-25
> maybe. You'll find a couple of purple with orange tracers and one
> purple with yellow tracer. That's the one. I cut the wire, crimped on
> bullet connectors, one male one female to the original wire so that if I
> ran into problems it would be an easy swap back. I then ran two wires,
> one connected to the wire to the trans and one to the end coming from
> the EEC, from there up along the harness and through the firewall to a 3
> pole, two-position switch. With the switch in the on position the
> current is allowed to flow as normal, with the switch in the off
> position the current is cut from the EEC to the TC lock-up selenoid thus
> disabling lockup.
>
> I then took a ride, lock-up enabled. TC locks up right after the 1-2
> shift and bogs the motor. I hit the disable, TC unlocks and rpm's
> increase and motor no longer bogs down. I try a hard acceleration w/ TC
> enabled. Smooth shift into 2nd and then TC lock-up, power just plain
> falls off hard. I disable the lock-up and take off again. Hard pull in
> first, shift to 2nd, still pulling hard, shift to third. I have to let
> up on the accelerator because in going about 60 now.
>
> Bottom line is I love it. It feels like I believe it should feel. The
> motor is allowed to operate in it's powerband and the annoying lock-up
> and unlock each time I slow down or speed up is gone. The beautiful
> thing about it is you can enable it anytime you want. I took the
> freeway to work this afternoon and I simply enabled the lock-up and it
> wheels along on the freeway like it should. In town I simply will leave
> it disabled.
>
> If anyone is unhappy with the operation of their E4OD this is quick,
> simple way to modify the performance of it. If anyone has questions I'd
> be more than happy to fill you in on the process.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dana B
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You guys are working much to hard at this...just turn you 4 ways on the
TC will not lock up till you turn them off!
Chris
94 Lightning #381
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 17:12:15 EST
From: BanksRVA aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brakes

I have an '82 F100 300-6 with manual brakes. I would like to change over to
power brakes. Has anyone out there done this swap? Any feedback would be
great.Thanks, Joe Banks BanksRVA aol.com
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 14:33:41 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brakes

If the option was available for your Model year, you'll need the Brake booster, a vacuum line to feed it, and the longer
shaft master cylinder. There may be a few holes to drill for the booster to mount in the floor board.

If it wasn't available for that Model year, you'll have to do some comparisons with other models.

Bob


BanksRVA aol.com wrote:

> I have an '82 F100 300-6 with manual brakes. I would like to change over to
> power brakes. Has anyone out there done this swap? Any feedback would be
> great. Thanks, Joe Banks BanksRVA aol.com
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 17:03:06 -0700
From: "Glenn Koepnick"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Mushy brake pedal

I have a 1990 F250 460 4x4 and here is my dilemma.

After changing the master cylinder and bleeding each line, I still am
experiencing a mushy brake pedal.

When I push on the brakes while sitting and idling, if I push hard, I can
hear a hissing sound while the pedal slowly travels to the floor. Or, if I
push, hold, and then let up just a hair and then push again, the pedal will
slowly go all the way to the floor.
Could there be a problem with the boost assist? I don't know, but I am
getting tired of hit and miss remove and replace.


Glenn Koepnick
Eclipsys Corporation
Tucson, Arizona
glenn.koepnick eclipsys.com


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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 19:57:16 EST
From: CphgnCwby1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Mushy brake pedal

sounds to me like you may have a master cylinder leaking, have you checked all
the lines and what not?

GOOD LUCK

BART
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 19:58:05 EST
From: CphgnCwby1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Help! rainy day 460

Sounds to me like you may have a bad plug wire, or maybe a cap.

BART
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 17:21:03 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - TC lock-up disable

CMYRED1 aol.com wrote:
>
> DO YOU THINK THIS WILL WORK ON 95PS?
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

Probably not. It will disable the lock-up but the computer on the
newer('94 and up), will see this as a problem and give you either a
check engine light or your overdrive off light will begin to flash.
The copmuter monitors rpm, vehicle speed, throttle position etc. When
it sees the TC not locking up when it should it thinks there is a
problem and goes into "limp" mode. On the older vehicles the computer
ignores this and all is OK.

So far I haven't had any problems with mine and the increase in
performance of the transmission is unbelievable.

Dana B
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 17:26:25 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - TC lock-up disable

> You guys are working much to hard at this...just turn you 4 ways on the
> TC will not lock up till you turn them off!
> Chris
> 94 Lightning #381
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


Could you elaborate on this? I don't understand what "just turn you 4
ways on" means.

Thanks,


Dana B
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 20:48:20 -0500
From: "Serian"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap

>I'm new to the list and discovered it as I was researching how to swap
>engines in my '82 Ford F-150. I just pulled the 300 I6 and have ordered
>a 351 Windsor to drop in. I have a C-4 auto and I think everything
>should bolt up.

The C-4 will bolt up without a problem, but you will need a different
kickdown linkage.

>However, I have a question on the motor mounts. The
>six sits on plates that are bolted to the cross member. I was told I
>would need to take these out.

That is correct ... if you dont, it'l squash your oil filter.

>But, if I do, the result looks like it
>will leave a 1 1/2 inch to 2 inch hole in the cross member.

It will ... thats where your oil filter will sit.

>Will the new motor mounts utilize this hole?

nope.

>Is there someone that can fabricate a matching motor mount?

I recommend searching the boneyards for a pair of V8 mounts ...
I did this on my '83 (still has the 6, but I put the mounts in for the 8)
they sit behind and bolt to the crossmember ... all the holes are there,
but on the one side, you will have to cut or drill out two rivets in
the crossmember and replace them with bolts in order for the
mount for the 8 cyl to fit the way it is supposed to. I used grade 8
bolts on mine.

I suppose any good machine shop could make those mounts, but
its easier and cheaper to get em outa a yard ...

== Serian

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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 21:09:19 -0500
From: "msalvetti"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dual Gas Tank Leak

Tom's dual tank setup is transferring return fuel to the wrong tank, so it
overflows.

Tom, I had the same problem with the exact same truck (1986 long bed,
302FI). As someone else suggested, I also thought it was the fuel
distributor that switches the tanks.

You mentioned your fuel filter. For some reason, my truck doesn't seem to
have it after the fuel pump. I looked everywhere, and finally had the
dealer do it when the truck was in for something else. Turns out the fuel
distributor itself has a filter in it. When they changed it, the
distributor started to work fine, and I could use both tanks again.
Haven't had a problem with it since. You might try that for your truck.

Good luck!

Mark Salvetti
1986 F150
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 21:19:28 -0500
From: Andre Roy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking

Tom Gunby wrote:
>
> The frame-mounted fuel pump has four lines in from the rear (two from
> each tank) and two lines out to the front (one to the fuel filter the
> other up into the engine compartment).
>
That would be the return line.


I can disconnect the front two
> lines and a couple of drops of gas leaks out. If I disconnect either of
> the rear lines, gas flows out and apparently will continue to do so
> until the particular tank is empty (I caught a gallon trying to see if
> the "line would empty" but it kept flowing)........... Thought about clamping
> off the lines but they are very thick. Sure would appreciate some
> insight on this one.
>
Well, you could drive it until it's nearly empty. Or get some golf tees.
Stick them in the lines to block them.

I know it's a weird time of year to be buying golf supplies, but there
you are. ;-)

- --
Andre, Somewhere ...
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 20:39:09 -0600
From: David Cole
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap

I'm getting into this thread sorta late, so forgive me if someone else has
already mentioned this.

When you drop the 351-W in it will bolt up to the C-4 with no problem.
Just make sure that you use the correct flexplate. The 300-6 plate will
bolt up and looks correct, but the 300-6 is internally balanced. Your old
flexplate won't have a balance pad on it and it will cause a vibration that
will be hard to track down. In the end it will destroy the 351-W.

You need a flexplate with 28 oz-in imbalance from another 351 or from a pre
81 302. 81 and up 302 plates will also bolt up, but they are balanced at
50 oz-in imbalance. One of those wonderful cost saving ideas from Ford
that was stupid as h*ll.

Later,

David Cole


>>I'm new to the list and discovered it as I was researching how to swap
>>engines in my '82 Ford F-150. I just pulled the 300 I6 and have ordered
>>a 351 Windsor to drop in. I have a C-4 auto and I think everything
>>should bolt up.
>
>The C-4 will bolt up without a problem, but you will need a different
>kickdown linkage.


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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 22:42:14 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - my f150

Shane,
Check out this website. It gives VERY detailed info on how to run the codes.
EEC IV Self Test - Ford
Fuel Injection and EE...
Hope this helps,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
Wayne's Flareside Page
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Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 22:41:48 -0600
From: vince a smith
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Help ! 1976 351 very hard start when cold

My brother has a 1976 1 ton Econoline van with a 351W and a two barrel
carb. The problem is the thing won't start when it is cold until he
cranes it for at least 10 min. Usually he run the battery down and has
to jump it, finally it starts. Some background, he just put a rebuild
longblock ( 170,000 hard miles on first one) in it and before that it
would start reluctantly but consistently, after he put the engine in it
did pretty much the same, now it won't start unless warm without running
fully charged battery down and then jumping.
When it is warm is will start right off.

He just rebuilt the carb and thinks it may be worse, also before he
rebuilt carb, he took plugs out 1 at a time and doing a quick check for
compression with his finger he noticed number 3 cylinder was shooting
gas out of it.
He thinks the carb my be just wore out and wanted to know if anyone know
of a good source for new or rebuilt carbs. This is his remolding van and
only uses it on occasion so he doesn't wont to spend a lot more money on
it. Autozone wants 175.00 for a carb !
Any suggestion about the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Vince Smith
61 Econoline Pickup 144 CI
93 Econoline Conversion 302


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Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 03:57:22 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tanks Leaking

Hello Andre-

Thanks for the information and golf tee suggestion. The lines are very thick and
have rigid couplers some of which are angled at 90 degrees so it appears the golf
tee idea is not applicable (my neighbor suggested the golf tee idea yesterday but
when he saw the lines and couplers agreed with me that the golf tee idea would not
work). We came up with the same answer you did - drive the truck until the tanks
until are near empty, jack up the front of the truck to assist gravity a little then
disconnect the lines and tie them to the rail above while replacing the defective
unit.

I seem to have mis-spoken about the defective unit. The men at the parts house
(went there yesterday) call it a "valve selector". It is a black plastic
can-looking unit mounted vertically on the frame rail. Physically, it's about the
same diameter and 2/3 the height of a tin can that soup or other canned goods come
packaged in. Wonder if it is possible to repair or rebuild its innards or if I am
stuck buying a new unit?

Thanks again for the help.

Regards,
Tom Gunby





Andre Roy wrote:

> Tom Gunby wrote:
> >
> > The frame-mounted fuel pump has four lines in from the rear (two from
> > each tank) and two lines out to the front (one to the fuel filter the
> > other up into the engine compartment).
> >
> That would be the return line.
>
> I can disconnect the front two
> > lines and a couple of drops of gas leaks out. If I disconnect either of
> > the rear lines, gas flows out and apparently will continue to do so
> > until the particular tank is empty (I caught a gallon trying to see if
> > the "line would empty" but it kept flowing)........... Thought about clamping
> > off the lines but they are very thick. Sure would appreciate some
> > insight on this one.
> >
> Well, you could drive it until it's nearly empty. Or get some golf tees.
> Stick them in the lines to block them.
>
> I know it's a weird time of year to be buying golf supplies, but there
....


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