80-96-list-digest Saturday, January 23 1999 Volume 03 : Number 018



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Engine swap
Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!
FTE 80-96 - RE: All of the Sudden
FTE 80-96 - RE: Torque Converter Lock-Up
RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!
Re: FTE 80-96 - New Super-Duty Trucks
FTE 80-96 - Caliper pistons
FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead Truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...
FTE 80-96 - '80 I-6 Carb
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...
RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!
FTE 80-96 - Good News/Bad News
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...
Re: FTE 80-96 - Good News/Bad News
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tank Leak
Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap
Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Caliper pistons
Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap
Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap
re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tank Leak
Re: FTE 80-96 - Caliper pistons
Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap
FTE 80-96 - TC lock-up disable
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tank Leak

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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 05:42:55 PST
From: "Steve Likness"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap

Hi everyone,

I'm new to the list and discovered it as I was researching how to swap
engines in my '82 Ford F-150. I just pulled the 300 I6 and have ordered
a 351 Windsor to drop in. I have a C-4 auto and I think everything
should bolt up. However, I have a question on the motor mounts. The
six sits on plates that are bolted to the cross member. I was told I
would need to take these out. But, if I do, the result looks like it
will leave a 1 1/2 inch to 2 inch hole in the cross member. Will the
new motor mounts utilize this hole? Is there someone that can fabricate
a matching motor mount?

Also, I know I'll need to get new brackets for the smog pump, altenator,
A/C, and power steering pump. Any suggestions on a good supplier or set
up? I will probably investigate the local junk yards also.

Any suggestions on headers? I'm going to convert to a dual exhaust and
I'm thinking of using flow through cats without mufflers (maybe
resonators on the end). I want the pipes to dump straight back below
the rear bumper.

Thanks,

Steve

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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 08:23:26 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!

Matthew Hayduk wrote:

> I am now a proud (again) ford truck owner. I purchased an 83 F150 XLT with
> a 300 I6 and a long bed. I have a small problem with the carb. My normal
> idle needs to go down and the choke idle needs to go up. There are 2
> screws on the drivers side of the carb, a top and a bottom one. If
> possible which screw and which direction will do the above?

Congrats, and you just purchased the best year Ford you could have.
I have the '83 300 I-6 bronco. If I had the bronco today I'd run right
out and tell ya, but I drove the Mustang. Its been quite a while since
I have had to mess with my carb. Did you read that, all you EFI
truck guys. :-) :-)
If you don't have an answer by Monday, then i will be able to tell
ya.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 09:07:19 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: All of the Sudden

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 21:37:01 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - All of the sudden...NO START! 92 F-150 5.0 E4OD

No warning, no hard to start...get in hit the key...get several
clicks...let off...hit again...one loud clunk. Same every twist after
that. With volt meter at battery terminals, 12.38...does NOT change with
key twist. Tried to jump across solenoid posts...
nothing happens, only thing not checked yet, does solenoid pass volts.

I truly suspect it does, and that the starter won't pull any amps....Argh,
a starter changing we will go (unless I hear otherwise!)

Thanks!

UPDATE: Got under it to check volts at starter, looks like no starter I
ever saw! A small wire with a female spade fitting on it had dislodged
from a terminal on what APPEARS to be a solenoid???
Put it back on (tweaked a bit so she'll hold ;-) ) and lo and behold my
baby started right up!!!

Drove my buddies 91 Dodge D-250 w/ 12v Cummins and Auto last night...I WANT
that engine in a Super Duty (you can keep the rest of the truck!) Sorry
for that little spout!!!!

Dave H.
Houston, TX
92 F-150 S/C 5.0 E4OD
If it didn't kill you...it was a valuable learning experience!
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 09:15:45 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Torque Converter Lock-Up

Have I been misled here? ? ? ? I thought the TC locked up at around 47MPH
and unlocked anytime you took your foot off the accelerator (coasting), and
relocked as you began to accelerate again provided you were above 47 (or
so) MPH.!!!!

I don't know about 47 mph initial lock-up...but otherwise mine acts just
like described above. Mine always locks about same time as 2-3 shift...BIG
RPM drop. I read a post on how to get control of lock-up...I'm going to do
it!!!!! Something about a purple wire with yellow stripe (look at V3#16
list!).

Otherwise I still LOVE my Ford!!!

Dave H.

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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 09:17:28 -0600
From: Ron Madurski
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!

Make sure the carb is tightened down to the intake. Mine had a habit of
loosening, although I don't remember the warm idle changing. It would
idle rough and not high enough though.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Hayduk [mailto:matt plusweb.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 1999 12:20 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!


Hi all,

I am now a proud (again) ford truck owner. I purchased an 83 F150 XLT
with
a 300 I6 and a long bed. I have a small problem with the carb. My
normal
idle needs to go down and the choke idle needs to go up. There are 2
screws on the drivers side of the carb, a top and a bottom one. If
possible which screw and which direction will do the above?

Sorry for the ignorant question, but I don't know that much about 1 bbl
carbs (or carbs at all really)!

I do LOVE my truck and it's a FORD and that really counts!

TIA and TTYL


Matthew Hayduk
matt plusweb.net ICQ: 3680882 pager.mirabilis.com

94 SVT Cobra Coupe White/Black Leather #4270 of 5009 SCOA
9.176 76.069 Mph PERSONAL TOP SPEED: 137 mph
- K&N FIPK
- Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with no tailpipes
- Pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter
- Autometer Cowl Mounted Fuel Pres Guage
83 F150 XLT 300ci I6 A/T
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 10:40:18 EST
From: Kbeverwein aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Super-Duty Trucks

I have the 99 superduty, F250, powerstroke, crewcab, long bed and 3:73 gears.
I love it I traded in my 97 f250 supercab. When I first got it it got 11.1
mpg and now I
have just over 10,000 miles on it and I am getting 16.4.

Last month I drove from san diego to Lufkin, TX and towed back my 83 e150
maxivan. I couldn't tell you how much weight i was towing, but it was loaded
down
and in the bed of my truck was loaded down with stuff. My fuel mileage
dropped to
16.2. And then after a steady run it went back up to 16.3. Coming back
through the
mountains I had it on cruise and it didn't even heistate.

On the way to Texas going across Arizona and New Mexico, I had it on cruise
control
at 95 running with a big rig and it still got 16.3. 95 was as fast as it
would go. I
believe the pump needs to be set up a little.

I really enjoy the truck. I think it is 24 feet long bumper to bumper. I
liked the new
style. I didn't need anything that big because I don't do any real heavy
towing.

I like those cut away vans. I think I am going to do that to my Maxivan. It
has some
rust on the back.

Brian
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 10:56:23 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Caliper pistons

Rick Buchanan writes: >>I had my truck at a brake shop this past weekend
because of a stubborn
squeak on one of the front wheels. There suggestion was to rebuild the
calipers using Phenolic pistons rather than the Stainless Steel ones
that are in it now. They said this would take away some of the heat
which is causing the calipers to bind and not release the pads all the
way from the rotors. Has or does anyone use Phenolic pistons in there
calipers? Are they better? Or is the brake shop looking for an excuse
to rebuild my calipers and charge me more money? And am I going to pay
for this dearly down the road?

Let me tell you of an experience of mine. Not FOMOCO but it relates to Phenolic
pistons.

In 1980 I purchased a 1979 Dodge Aspen R/T with 6000 + miles on it. Within the
1st year I replaced the Phenolic pistons. Being the type that likes to keep
stock parts I used Phenolic replacements. Within a year I was having binding
brake problems again. I again replaced with phenolic. To make this story as
short as possible I did this 3 times, then went to stainless pistons.
The car now has 255000 miles on it and the stainless pistons are still in it. I
Will never use phenolic pistons again - Never.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 11:34:23 -0500
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dead Truck

Casey,

dont stop now, gather all the info you can download, treat yourself to a new
manual, or ask us some more questions while you two cool off.
ill bet your smarter than a starter, a take charge kind of guy,...right...
right.

give it another shot, afterall, it was built by man, and men have their
quirks, nuisances, flaws, too.

...3...2..1..ignition
mike


Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 23:37:53 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...

Casey,
Man, I feel so bad for you. Many of us have followed your trials and
tribulations for awhile and have even given some advice along the way.
Sorry to hear about your latest, I knew that if the starter didn't do it
this time you'd be sayin' goodbye to that bad boy. Hey, any make and model
can have it's nuisances! I know it's easy for me to say, but I wouldn't put
a bad rap on Ford just because of all this. Being stranded is no fun at all
and I'm sure your boss may have been growing weary of the calls about the
truck not starting and all. Well, good luck in your new 'venture', whatever
make/model that may be. It was nice exchanging ideas w/you along the way...

Nice to know ya,
Brew


Casey R. Vandor wrote:

> Well the 83 has outdone itself again. It has been fixed for a week or
> so. This morning, -43 degrees outside, the thing starts right up.
> Driving down the road, the solenoid (the new starter has the solenoid
> mounted on the starter) kicks in and trys to engage while I am driving.
> By the time I got the truck stopped and the battery cable off, the
> starter was toast. I hate to say it, but I am going to leave it at home
> and not put up with it anymore. I want to thank everyone on the lists
> for all the help, but I have to draw the line (even with Fords)
> somewhere, and freezing my butt for an hour and a half to get to a phone
> pretty well drew that line for me. It was fun listening to all the
> message postings and maybe I be back on the list sometime.
>
> For those of you with Ford's that run... May they run longer than mine
> :)
> Casey Vandor


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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:24:42 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...

Hey Casey,
Sorry to hear about your Demon Ford. I know you have been thru alot with it.
But DONT GIVE UP MAN, Everything in this world can be fixed. You know the
saying, If at first or second you dont succeed, TRY , TRY AGAIN. When you get
it fixed , you will feel great about yourself, knowing that you conquered the
beast. Run the signs, symthoms and diagnostics by again. We will all listen up
to help you. Its only a truck, and you are far superior than a piece of
machinery to let it beat you. Keep saying one way or another im going to fix
that truck. Good Luck.

Joe
Flashwax.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:03:36 -0600
From: "Bob Johnson"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '80 I-6 Carb

The plumbing on the carb on my '80 was "modified" sometime in the past by a
previous owner.

Where does the "mechanical float bowl vent" vent to? It's the lever-operated
"port" to the left (driver's side) of the fuel inlet. Mine is not connected
to anything - no hose, no tube, no nothing. Really exciting - if the float
sticks (it did) and the vent opens (it did), it pumps a LOT of gas all over
the carb, intake AND EXHAUST manifolds!! It seems to me it must be routed
somewhere ...

Where does the choke cold air inlet connect to? It's the air passage at the
top of the air horn, right (passenger) side, above the choke plate. Mine has
a small rubber tube - looks like vacuum hose - that in turn connects to a
small diameter bent metal tube about 12" long in total, which in turn
connects to ... nothing. Where is it supposed to go?

A possible related question: there's a hole on the top of the "flange" of
the #1 intake runner, parallel to the studs - there's a hollow rolled "pin"
in there now, but I'm not sure it's original. What's the hole for - does it
go anywhere or is it blind? Is this one of the missing connection locations?

Finally, anyone out there got the air cleaner mounting bracket and screws
for the top of the carb? Are they available from Ford without also buying
the attached carburetor?

Thanks.

Bob
'80 F-250 Custom 3 spd I-6
'86 Ranger SC XLT 2.9l

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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 10:00:31 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...

"Casey R. Vandor" wrote:

>
> For those of you with Ford's that run... May they run longer than mine
> :)
> Casey Vandor
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

Casey,

Once you are a Ford Owner, you'll always be Ford owner in
your heart. As far
as I'm concerned you're welcome here, regardless of your
daily driver...

Bob
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:00:56 -0600
From: "Baldwin, Dave"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!

Just a caution here: be careful NOT to overtorque the carb on the intake
manifold. If overtightened, the housing will deflect, binding the throttle
shaft. This is very important on carbs with vacuum-operated secondaries,
since there is not very much force applied from the vacuum, and any binding
of the shaft from overtightening will render it inoperable.

I only use enough torque to get a good seal. If you have trouble with the
nuts loosening, put some lockwashers under them or use some loctite.

As far as idle speed is concerned, clockwise (tightening) usually increases
idle speed, but not always. Some other things to check (and are related to
idle speed) are: (1) ignition timing, and (2) idle-speed mixture adjustment.
If you have an emissions vehicle, (2) is probably not adjustable.

Regards,
Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX


- -----Original Message-----
From: Ron Madurski [mailto:rmadurski drd.com]
Sent: Friday, January 22, 1999 9:17 AM
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!


Make sure the carb is tightened down to the intake. Mine had a habit of
loosening, although I don't remember the warm idle changing. It would
idle rough and not high enough though.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Hayduk [mailto:matt plusweb.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 1999 12:20 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!


Hi all,

I am now a proud (again) ford truck owner. I purchased an 83 F150 XLT
with
a 300 I6 and a long bed. I have a small problem with the carb. My
normal
idle needs to go down and the choke idle needs to go up. There are 2
screws on the drivers side of the carb, a top and a bottom one. If
possible which screw and which direction will do the above?

Sorry for the ignorant question, but I don't know that much about 1 bbl
carbs (or carbs at all really)!

I do LOVE my truck and it's a FORD and that really counts!

TIA and TTYL


Matthew Hayduk
matt plusweb.net ICQ: 3680882 pager.mirabilis.com

94 SVT Cobra Coupe White/Black Leather #4270 of 5009 SCOA
9.176 76.069 Mph PERSONAL TOP SPEED: 137 mph
- K&N FIPK
- Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with no tailpipes
- Pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter
- Autometer Cowl Mounted Fuel Pres Guage
83 F150 XLT 300ci I6 A/T
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 13:12:56 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Good News/Bad News

Good News! After 4 years my '94 F150 is PAID FOR! I received the title
today.
Bad News! It has a problem when the humidity is high. If I park it
outside for a few hours in heavy rain or fog it develops a miss. On
occasion it will not start at all: it fires, then stumbles and dies and
will not fire again. If I push it into the garage it is back to normal
after it dries out. Switching gas tanks does not help. Switching gas
stations does not help. "Heet" does not help. New plugs, wires
(Jacobs), cap & rotor (twice), and fuel filter did not help. Suspecting
a bad coil, I pulled a spark plug, reattached the plug wire, grounded the
plug (jumper cables work for this), cranked it over and got spark... but
still it would not start. What am I missing, here? Could a soggy EEC-IV
cause this without giving me a "check engine" light? This is a '94 4.9L
5-spd truck with dual fuel tanks. TIA

lordjanusz juno.com

PLIERS (n): Tool used to round off bolt heads.

___________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 10:46:41 -0800
From: Paul Laughlin
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...

> "Casey R. Vandor" wrote:
> For those of you with Ford's that run... May they run longer than mine
>

Casey, you might just appreciate the following:

23rd Psalm to a Ford

The Ford is my chariot, I shall not want another. It maketh me to lie
down in wet places. It leadeth me into muddy waters. It controlleth my
soul. It leadeth me in the paths of damnation for it's name's sake.
Yea, though I run through the valley at 45 per, I am towed up the hill;
for it's engine quitteth on me. It's springs and its shocks they tortue
me. It preparest a breakdown in the presence of mine enemies. It
anointeth my head with oil. It's radiator runneth over. Surely service
and repairs shall follow me all the days of my life; and I will dwell in
the house of Ford forever.

(VBG)

Yesterday, I started up my '87 E350 van (351)for the first time in a
while, and the power steering squalled at me. Low on fluid. Guess I
have a slight leak somewhere.
Paul in pOrtland OR
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 15:49:38 -0500
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Good News/Bad News

Are you getting fuel?

Shorting pump, or relay?

Any codes in the computer, after this happens? How about the (Key On Engine
On) test when it is acting up a little.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Paul M Radecki
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, January 22, 1999 1:39 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Good News/Bad News


>Good News! After 4 years my '94 F150 is PAID FOR! I received the title
>today.
>Bad News! It has a problem when the humidity is high. If I park it
>outside for a few hours in heavy rain or fog it develops a miss. On
>occasion it will not start at all: it fires, then stumbles and dies and
>will not fire again. If I push it into the garage it is back to normal
>after it dries out. Switching gas tanks does not help. Switching gas
>stations does not help. "Heet" does not help. New plugs, wires
>(Jacobs), cap & rotor (twice), and fuel filter did not help. Suspecting
>a bad coil, I pulled a spark plug, reattached the plug wire, grounded the
>plug (jumper cables work for this), cranked it over and got spark... but
>still it would not start. What am I missing, here? Could a soggy EEC-IV
>cause this without giving me a "check engine" light? This is a '94 4.9L
>5-spd truck with dual fuel tanks. TIA
>
>lordjanusz juno.com
>
> PLIERS (n): Tool used to round off bolt heads.
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 16:48:33 EST
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tank Leak

mine does the same thing there is a cross over valve but its pricey so i
havent done it yet but thats the problem!! its behind the fuel pump you have
replaced..and hs many hoses going into it..
Bob
Rolson1039 aol.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 17:34:28 EST
From: RQTHOMSON aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap

Where did you get the Windsor & how much?
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 17:36:29 EST
From: RQTHOMSON aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!

I had the same problem with the carb gtting loose. Some self locking nuts
helped.
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 17:41:56 EST
From: RQTHOMSON aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Caliper pistons

My 83 had phenolic pistons (maybe still has one), but the left front locked up
because the piston would not release (without the help of a 4 pound hammer). I
think the shop may be backwards on which one swells, I've heard of other Fords
& Chryslers with problems with the phenolis pistons.
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 17:33:34 EST
From: RQTHOMSON aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap

I'm looking at a similar project on an 83 with an AOD. As of now I have no
advice, but I do have some questions. Does a 351M bolt up the same? And what
are the good and bad of 351W,C,M?
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 18:24:15 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap

RQTHOMSON aol.com wrote:
>
> I'm looking at a similar project on an 83 with an AOD. As of now I have no
> advice, but I do have some questions. Does a 351M bolt up the same? And what
> are the good and bad of 351W,C,M?
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Oh no not the 351 question again! Here comes the war! I personally like
the 351W...but then again i own a Lightning and the only thing it hauls
is... well you get the point. I will let the more experience guys give
you their points of view!
Chris
94 Lightning #381
NLOC #238
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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 18:39:28 -0500
From: Jay Snyder
Subject: re: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tank Leak

>My '86 long bed F-150 302 EFI with dual gas tank is pumping gas out of
>the rear tank into the front tank when the tank selector switch on the
>dash is set for the rear tank. If I fill the front tank and fill or
>partially fill the rear tank then place the dash-mounted tank selector
>switch in the front tank position, all is well. If I place the selector
>switch in the rear tank position, after a few moments gas pours from the
>front tank filler door on the side of the rear fender until I shut the

I have dual tanks on my F-150, but haven't had trouble yet. I did, however
have to fix a problem with the fuel selector valve on my old Chevy,
as it didn't work when I bought it. Turns out the previous owner
pinched the wiring to the valve with the trans cross-member when
replacing the trans. While I was dianosing this problem, I learned
now the dual fuel system on that truck worked. That truck was a diesel,
and like my '87 F150 that is fuel injected, there is a fuel return from
the pressure regulator. Is your truck carb or FI? If it is carb, I don't
know if there is a return or not.

Anyways, the valve on the chevy switched both the fuel supply AND
the RETURN. It was operated by one motor. Now if Ford uses
separate valves (and actuators), maybe the supply one is switching,
but the return one is stuck on the front tank. All is well when running
off of the front, because you are returning fuel to the tank you are getting
it from. Of course, when running off of the rear tank, you are still
returning fuel to the front tank, thus the problem.

Hope this helps,
Jay
'87 F-150 300-I6, C6 Automatic (anyone want to trade a 5spd for it?)


============================================================
Jay Snyder
jsnyder microserve.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.microserve.net/~jsnyder
(717)652-3567
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 17:49:39 -0600
From: "Stephen Beal"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Caliper pistons

If you are wondering every Corvette owner on early models changes to
stainless steel because the brake fluid won't attack the piston. Phenolic
material is basically the same stuff the PC boards in your computer are made
of, their a joke in brake calipers.
- -----Original Message-----
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
To: 80-96-list Ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, January 22, 1999 10:00 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Caliper pistons


>Rick Buchanan writes: >>I had my truck at a brake shop this past weekend
>because of a stubborn
>squeak on one of the front wheels. There suggestion was to rebuild the
>calipers using Phenolic pistons rather than the Stainless Steel ones
>that are in it now. They said this would take away some of the heat
>which is causing the calipers to bind and not release the pads all the
>way from the rotors. Has or does anyone use Phenolic pistons in there
>calipers? Are they better? Or is the brake shop looking for an excuse
>to rebuild my calipers and charge me more money? And am I going to pay
>for this dearly down the road?
>
>Let me tell you of an experience of mine. Not FOMOCO but it relates to
Phenolic
>pistons.
>
>In 1980 I purchased a 1979 Dodge Aspen R/T with 6000 + miles on it. Within
the
>1st year I replaced the Phenolic pistons. Being the type that likes to
keep
>stock parts I used Phenolic replacements. Within a year I was having
binding
>brake problems again. I again replaced with phenolic. To make this story
as
>short as possible I did this 3 times, then went to stainless pistons.
>The car now has 255000 miles on it and the stainless pistons are still in
it. I
>Will never use phenolic pistons again - Never.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 19:30:50 -0600
From: "Stephen Beal"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap

OK, here goes,
the 351w was introduced in 1969 as a longer stroke 302, it had more torque
than the 302.
In 1970 Ford introduced the 351C, and all hell broke lose. This engine had
the same bore & stroke as the 351W but was much beefier than the Windsor and
you mite say it had ( ho no) Big block Chevy heads on it. The ports are
massive, True breathing started at 6000 rpm and when worked on went through
the roof. It took over Nascar, NHRA,SSCA, Then the big boom hit. (NO OIL)
Gas prices went up and the GOV started the SMOG CRAP (see where I stand ?)
and the 351C dyed I know, I had worked on mine for years custom making
everything on it for racing. NOTE 351M-400's are not anything like 351C's as
for as horse power is concerned.
In 1993 Ford started making 400M's to go into the pickup's for more
torque,(4" bore 4" stroke, but with smaller ports in the heads and 2bl
carbs. The blocks on 351&400M's have a taller deck height than the 351C. The
transmission also has a different bolt pattern too, more like a 429-460.
When Nascar started putting restictor plates on all engines on certain
tracks the 351C dyed all together. So here comes the 351Winsor back. The
major race teams and Ford decided to do a revamp on the 351W to keep up with
the favored little Chevy, sense the plates didn't hurt it as much if a all.
One reason for the change to the 351W was because it has a lot less rotating
weight, and is easier on bearing loads at high rpm.
Now there are alot of after market parts for the 351W, and with the
advancement of technology makes close to the same horse power as the 351C.
sense it is mass produced it a lot cheaper to build also. I hope this helps.
I'm getting harassed by my kids to get off the computer so I have to go.
Thanks for reading my soap box Auto Shop 101. talk later. Steve
- -----Original Message-----
From: RQTHOMSON aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, January 22, 1999 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine swap


>I'm looking at a similar project on an 83 with an AOD. As of now I have no
>advice, but I do have some questions. Does a 351M bolt up the same? And
what
>are the good and bad of 351W,C,M?
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 17:35:23 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - TC lock-up disable

So I put in the switch to disable my TC lock-up on my '93 F350 w/ E4OD
today.

In the last post I described the process to do it. I tried to find the
purple with white tracer wire in the harness from the EEC but was unable
to locate it. I called ATO to ask if they could be more specific as to
the location. I spoke to the technician that does the actual work and
he said finding and tying inot the wire there is a pain in the ass.
Here's where to look. The harness plugs into the tranny on the right
hand side. Follow the harness along, it probably goes up over the
tranny. It runs along the cross-member and has a short hard plastic
loom over it, not the flex type loom but a hard plastic shield. This
was located just under the driver side of the trans on my truck. This
plastic sheild is a good indication that you have the right harness.
Follow it along to the driver side frame rail and look for a place to
access it and open it up. There are a bunch of wires in there, 15-25
maybe. You'll find a couple of purple with orange tracers and one
purple with yellow tracer. That's the one. I cut the wire, crimped on
bullet connectors, one male one female to the original wire so that if I
ran into problems it would be an easy swap back. I then ran two wires,
one connected to the wire to the trans and one to the end coming from
the EEC, from there up along the harness and through the firewall to a 3
pole, two-position switch. With the switch in the on position the
current is allowed to flow as normal, with the switch in the off
position the current is cut from the EEC to the TC lock-up selenoid thus
disabling lockup.

I then took a ride, lock-up enabled. TC locks up right after the 1-2
shift and bogs the motor. I hit the disable, TC unlocks and rpm's
increase and motor no longer bogs down. I try a hard acceleration w/ TC
enabled. Smooth shift into 2nd and then TC lock-up, power just plain
falls off hard. I disable the lock-up and take off again. Hard pull in
first, shift to 2nd, still pulling hard, shift to third. I have to let
up on the accelerator because in going about 60 now.

Bottom line is I love it. It feels like I believe it should feel. The....


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