80-96-list-digest Friday, January 22 1999 Volume 03 : Number 017



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - electric choke
FTE 80-96 - Re: Advice on search for high mileage used truck
FTE 80-96 - TC Lockup
FTE 80-96 - FW: RE: Heater Control Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm brackets...not a new thread.
FTE 80-96 - New Super-Duty Trucks
FTE 80-96 - New Member, a story and a problem (long!)
FTE 80-96 - Re: Front end problems
FTE 80-96 - T-case output seal
Re: FTE 80-96 - Hub Removal
Re: FTE 80-96 - F-100 Front end problems
FTE 80-96 - MY NEW F250
FTE 80-96 - Brake Question
FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!
FTE 80-96 - carb question
FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tank Leak
Re: FTE 80-96 - New Super-Duty Trucks
Re: FTE 80-96 - New Super-Duty Trucks
Re: FTE 80-96 - New Member, a story and a problem (long!)
Re: FTE 80-96 - MY NEW F250
FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...
FTE 80-96 - All of the sudden...NO START! 92 F-150 5.0 E4OD
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: FTE's 2nd anniversary

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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 07:32:55 -0500
From: "Alger, Timothy, CTR, AFSAA/SAT"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - electric choke

I own a 86 f150, 351W with a Holley 4 bbl. Currently it is hard to start
cold. What is the best way to check to see if the electric choke is working
properly? I am following up on some info I had received from the list
previously. Any help on this matter will be appreciated.


thanks
tim



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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 04:58:57 -0800
From: "Ferino, Chris"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Advice on search for high mileage used truck

If you're considering a used Ford vehicle, don't forget to stop by a dealer
(a different dealer than you're using if you're getting it from a Ford
dealer) and ask their service department to run an Oasis report on the VIN.
I did that on my '93 Bronco before I bought it to catch any problems. If a
Ford dealer has done any service on the vehicle, it's going to be in their
Oasis system. (From what I've heard, there are two kinds of Oasis reports
they can run - a summary of the last year's work and a more detailed report.
I only got the last year's summary, which was enough for me.)

You might also want to run a Carfax report on the VIN (available on the web
at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.carfax.com). This will catch any title problems such as
salvaged, rebuilt, lemon law buyback and the like.
It'll also give you a history of registrations, so you can compare the
mileage on the odometer with the reported mileage at registration times to
see if there might have been a rollback. It's $20 well spent.

(You might not find reports of everything on both of these, but if there is
something major that someone's hiding, chances are it'll be on one or both
of these.)

I know *I* won't be buying any vehicles (even new ones) without at least
running a Carfax on 'em.

- --Chris
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:33:56 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - TC Lockup

Bjornar writes: >>My 1990 E-250 7.3, 3,43 rear, E4OD seems not to lock up when
cruising at fixed speeds. I can be doing 45-50 mph at over 2200 rpm, as soon as
I ase the accelerator down the rpms drop to "where it should be" and I can feel
the transfer case is locked up.

Have I been misled here? ? ? ? I thought the TC locked up at around 47MPH and
unlocked anytime you took your foot off the accelerator (coasting), and relocked
as you began to accelerate again provided you were above 47 (or so) MPH.!!!!


Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:42:07 -0600
From: Roger Lane
Subject: FTE 80-96 - FW: RE: Heater Control Problems

Hey Bill, I had the same problem, I will repost what I found last month.
Hope this helps!

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Roger Lane
> Sent:Monday, December 14, 1998 8:39 AM
> To:'80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com'
> Subject:RE: Heater Control Problems
>
> Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:53:45 -0600
> From: "BigRed"
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Problems with heater control
>
> >I have a 84 F150 with a slight problem.
> >No matter where the heater control is set (Defrost, Heat, Vent), it
> blowsall the air out of the AC vents.I know there are some vacuum motors
> that control where the air is sent, but I don't know which one('s) to look
> at.
> I have this same problem with my 87 right now. I did find my problem, but
> have not seen what I have to do to fix it yet. I followed the cable down
> to
> a thing under the dash. I can see the cable move when I move the lever,
> but
> the knob thingy doesn't move. I can move it by hand though. I also noticed
> that I have all of the options except the mix, for some reason that one
> doesn't click into place. I don't know if yours is in the same place as
> mine, but it is just to the right of the ash tray under the dash. Anyone
> got
> any ideas for us?
>
> I found the problem. There is a flapper in the airbox under the dash that
> diverts the air to the AC ducts. What it felt like (I could not see it)
> was that it was supposed to be on a hinge, but the hinge was broke. So
> what I did was force it closed, so now it diverts the air to another valve
> that sends it to the def/floor or mix. After I closed the valve I
> disconnected the vacuum control (the one under the dash next to the
> ashtray). So now the heat comes out the defrosters, the floor, or I can
> mix it. I'm not to worried about not getting air out of the AC ducts
> because the AC doesn't work anyway (someone even removed the compressor
> 8^).
> Hope this helps.
>
> Roger Lane
> Test/Support Analyst
> (402)241-3570
> Roger.Lane IBPINC.COM
>
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:25:41 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm brackets...not a new thread.

Michael J. Pasznik, Jr. wrote:
>
> Hey Rick,
>
> When you drilled out the radius arm bracket rivets and replaced them
> with bolts, what length, diameter, and gauge bolts did you end up using?
> Since I haven't heard any rants from you so far, I figure whatever you used
> must be working out pretty good. I'd rather use what works than make my own
> mistakes when it comes to something like this.
>
> -Mike
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

I used 1 inch 7/16 grade 8 bolts when I did my Lightning!
Chris
94 Lightning#381
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:17:22 EST
From: SCHOMACKER aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Super-Duty Trucks

I am in the process of deciding on a replacement tow vehicle for my 15,000#
fifth-wheel trailer. I presently have an '85 E-350 cutaway van with a 460 and
a C-6 trans with a Gear Venders over/under drive and a 4.10 gear. This unit
gets about 7-8 mpg whether pulling anything or not, which, I guess is not
unusual for that combination.
This vehicle is about the same length and wheel base as a super cab pick-up
and I really did not want to get into anything longer (crew-cab), but after
seeing the Super-Duty version of a super cab, I was shocked to see the
miniscule excuse for a rear seat that is in it. I thought that the rear seat
in my '89 F-150 super cab was borderline useless, but that appears 50% larger
than in the new trucks!

My real question that I would like some information on is what people are
HONESTLY (please no brag, just fact) getting as fuel mileage on these new
units, particularly the PS diesel and the V-10 gas. From what I've heard, 12
mpg is about "normal" for the PS, but I have not heard anything about the V-10
gas engine.

Thanks for any input.
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:16:04 -0600
From: William Zellmann
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Member, a story and a problem (long!)

I just signed on to the list, so I thought I'd introduce myself, and
maybe slip in a few questions.

A few months ago, I bought my first Ford, an 82 f-100 short bed with a
300 I6 and three-speed +OD stick trans. Most of my experience since my
teens (loooong ago!) has been with Chevy/GM cars. To be honest, the only
Fords I've EVER worked on were a few Model T's and A's, a '48 (I pulled
the flattie and put a '54 Dodge Hemi in it--yes, it was a LONG time
ago!) and a friend's '57 Y-block.

Anyway, I really received a pleasant surprise. I LOVE the ol' truck. I
bought it off a junk yard for $500 with a blown clutch. After taking
care of that, the truck became my favorite--especially after a
compression test showed 165-175 # in all six cylinders, and the
aftermarket oil pressure gauge I installed showed about 23 psi at idle
and almost 50 at cruise! The only engine work it needed was a new PCV
valve--it was blowing oil into the air cleaner.

I've got some problems now, though. It started with a ticking, then
hammering, lifter. OK, no problem. I know better than to put a new
lifter on an old cam (ask me how I know!), so I gathered up a few
lifters from my friendly local boneyard. When I pulled the valve cover,
I noticed a couple of rockers and pushrods that didn't look so good, so
I replaced them, too. I picked up a factory service manual at a swap
meet (well, 2 of the 3 volumes, he didn't have the emissions volume), to
make sure I had the official info on setting up the valve train--and the
problems began.

The manual says that my engine has "non-adjustable" rockers. I don't
understand that--they look like any other stud-mounted rocker. If
they're mounted on a threaded stud, how can they be "Non-adjustable"?
and, if they're "non-adjustable", how come the manual has a procedure
for setting them up (adjusting them?). Problem #1: The manual says to
use a special Ford tool and a dial indicator to set lifter preload. Of
course, no auto parts stores had the tool, nor did the dealer, nor even
a Snap-On truck I flagged down. A local "Ford Guy" told me to simply
adjust them until they stopped ticking on a warm engine. OK. Didn't
work. The truck ran like. . .well, you know. A mechanic I trust said
that he'd never seen one of the tools shown in the manual, and that they
adjusted them until the ticking stopped, then tightened an additional
half-turn (Just like on the Chevy V8's I'm used to).

Well, just before I got ready to do it, I read an article in a rod
magazine that claimed that you could set lifter preload on any engine,
hot or cold, by spinning the pushrod with your fingers while tightening,
until resistance is felt, then tighten an additional half-turn. Ok,
cool! No hot oil bath for me or the engine bay. So, I set it up that
way, engine cold. Yeah, I probably should have listened to the mechanic.

Well, I have a low-rpm miss, and power is not great. When I pulled it
back into the garage after the test drive, problem #2 showed itself.
When I poked my head under the hood with the engine idling, I was
startled to see bubbles arising around #2 and #3 plugs! I checked, and
the plugs were tight--and the fluid that was bubbling was OIL, not gas.
Oh, yeah, and the breather was spitting oil into the air cleaner again.

The only thing I can think of that could make oil bubble around tight
plugs is a cracked head. Anyone have any other suggestions? Obviously,
the valve adjustment moved from priority one to priority two--why adjust
the valves perfectly, only to have to pull the head?

So, that's where I'm at right now. What do you folks think? Should I
start shopping for a new head?

Any advice will be appreciated.

Bill Zellmann
Searcy, Arkansas
'82 F-100 with a headache!
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:36:27 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Front end problems

Is that '83 F-100 a 4X4 or 2X4?

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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:41:52 -0900
From: "L WALTERS"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - T-case output seal

Hey folks,
If anyone has a BORG-WARNER 1345 T-case and you plan on changing either of
the output seals. Request this one: NATIONAL p/n 714503.
This baby is new to me, It has a lip to seal against the yoke and the spring
is on the inside (where it should be).
Installed speedy sleeve on my rear output and was surprised with this
seal, It came primed with grease, you don't see that to often.

FYI
Bart-AK

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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 12:05:44 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hub Removal

Serian wrote:

> I dunno about automatic ones, but on my '83 with manual hubs, there
> is a steel ring that rests in a groove inside the hub assembly. Its
> harder than heck to see, and a real challenge to get it out because
> you have to "de-expand" it to get it out of the groove, and on mine
> at least, it doesnt have any nice convenient holes for ring-retainer
> pliers to grip. Take a screwdriver and "feel" alnong the inside of the
> hub casing ... if you find a little ridge that seems to be keeping you
> from sliding the hub assembly out, thats probably the steel retainer

Yes this recessed ring you speak of is the hub retainer ring. Can
be awfully hard to see if you don't know its there and can be
a PITA to get out. BUT if you go buy the set of four dental
tools(as I call them) you will not be shouting words that the
neighborhood can hear anymore. :-) What I mean by the dental
tools is there are four pics. One is a straight awl and the other
three have very sharp ends that are bent at various compound
angles to get under that retainer clip. Any parts house sells them,
and they are cheap. Not to mention the neighbors won't know
anymore when you are tearing your hubs apart. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))



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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:11:57 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F-100 Front end problems

Dmcomp aol.com wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have an '83 F-100 w/ an I-6 that has a very loose front suspension and need
> some advice. What am I looking to replace here, besides tie rods? Is it
> recommended to have a shop do all the replacement of the various bushings or
> could this be DIY project. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Dennis,
I replaced everything I am about to mention over the course of
a few months on my '83 bronco. The things you need to check are:
Upper/lower balljoints(both sides), radius arm bushings(both),
pivot bushings(both), tie-rod ends(both), and also check all three
u-joints on the axles. Yes, I am no master mechanic by far, and
it was the first time I had ever replaced any of these type of
components. You will probably have to buy a few tools but
that is a bonus(atleast as far as I'm concerned). You also will
be able to rent tools which I did for free from AutoZone. If
you want any help in diagnosing any of the above things I
mentioned then just ask the guys here and we will walk you
through the check process and the install/replacement process.
Just a note here from the budget side. An alignment shop
wanted $600.00 to replace the radius arm bushings,
tie-rod ends, and pivot bushings. Thats when I sprung into
action to get it done myself. My cost was $115.00 for good
namebrand parts and a few millers. Well alright, maybe more
than a few. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 14:51:09 -0500
From: Jason DiSalvo
Subject: FTE 80-96 - MY NEW F250

Guys, I just wanted to share my new F250 with you. If you want to see it go
to http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.tco.com/myf250/

I got a leftover model. I just put a plow on it. When you are at my site
check out the movie at the bottem.

Let me know

- -Jason

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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 15:44:06 -0700
From: "Rick Buchanan"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brake Question

I had my truck at a brake shop this past weekend because of a stubborn
squeak on one of the front wheels. There suggestion was to rebuild the
calipers using Phenolic pistons rather than the Stainless Steel ones
that are in it now. They said this would take away some of the heat
which is causing the calipers to bind and not release the pads all the
way from the rotors. Has or does anyone use Phenolic pistons in there
calipers? Are they better? Or is the brake shop looking for an excuse
to rebuild my calipers and charge me more money? And am I going to pay
for this dearly down the road?

Rick Buchanan
1992 F150 4x4 Flare side
62,000 miles


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:20:13 -0500
From: Matthew Hayduk
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300 I6 Carb HELP!

Hi all,

I am now a proud (again) ford truck owner. I purchased an 83 F150 XLT with
a 300 I6 and a long bed. I have a small problem with the carb. My normal
idle needs to go down and the choke idle needs to go up. There are 2
screws on the drivers side of the carb, a top and a bottom one. If
possible which screw and which direction will do the above?

Sorry for the ignorant question, but I don't know that much about 1 bbl
carbs (or carbs at all really)!

I do LOVE my truck and it's a FORD and that really counts!

TIA and TTYL


Matthew Hayduk
matt plusweb.net ICQ: 3680882 pager.mirabilis.com

94 SVT Cobra Coupe White/Black Leather #4270 of 5009 SCOA
9.176 76.069 Mph PERSONAL TOP SPEED: 137 mph
- K&N FIPK
- Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with no tailpipes
- Pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter
- Autometer Cowl Mounted Fuel Pres Guage
83 F150 XLT 300ci I6 A/T
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 15:24:48 PST
From: "jake Miller"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - carb question



Hey all,

I have a 300 six F-150, I have a clifford aluminum intake with a
stock 4 bbl carb on it, the smallest one they make. I am having trouble
keeping it from loading up. Is there anything I can do with the jets or
float level to remedy this problem. I am not sure what size jets are in
it but I think they are pretty small. Can anyone help?

Jake Miller
81 F-150
97 Cobra

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 18:39:16 -0500
From: Tom Gunby
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dual Gas Tank Leak

My '86 long bed F-150 302 EFI with dual gas tank is pumping gas out of
the rear tank into the front tank when the tank selector switch on the
dash is set for the rear tank. If I fill the front tank and fill or
partially fill the rear tank then place the dash-mounted tank selector
switch in the front tank position, all is well. If I place the selector
switch in the rear tank position, after a few moments gas pours from the
front tank filler door on the side of the rear fender until I shut the
engine off or switch back to the front tank. My local Ford dealer has
replaced the frame-mounted fuel pump (located inside the left frame
member slightly behind the driver) twice and the problem disappeared
then months later reappears. It seems to me there should be some type of
shunt or valve arrangement inside the frame-mounted pump to direct the
gas from the selected tank to the engine. Instead, when the rear tank
is selected, it is directing the flow of fuel to the other (front)
tank. Can I rebuild/repair the pump and get this working right or do I
replace the pump and wait for the next episode?
Thanks for any help.
Tom Gunby

PS There is a small "can" looking unit in-line between the frame
mounted fuel pump and the fuel filter that has a "pressure" warning on
it. Is the fuel system under pressure that could be dangerous to me as
I attempt the repairs?

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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 18:42:13 -0600
From: "Stephen Beal"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Super-Duty Trucks

Just thought you would like to know my 96 crew cab with 4.10 gets 16 on the
highway and 14 in town with an AOD. It rpm's at 2400 at 70mph. I wish it had
the 3.73's that my 92 F150 had.
- -----Original Message-----
From: SCHOMACKER aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, January 21, 1999 10:24 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Super-Duty Trucks


>I am in the process of deciding on a replacement tow vehicle for my 15,000#
>fifth-wheel trailer. I presently have an '85 E-350 cutaway van with a 460
and
>a C-6 trans with a Gear Venders over/under drive and a 4.10 gear. This
unit
>gets about 7-8 mpg whether pulling anything or not, which, I guess is not
>unusual for that combination.
>This vehicle is about the same length and wheel base as a super cab pick-up
>and I really did not want to get into anything longer (crew-cab), but after
>seeing the Super-Duty version of a super cab, I was shocked to see the
>miniscule excuse for a rear seat that is in it. I thought that the rear
seat
>in my '89 F-150 super cab was borderline useless, but that appears 50%
larger
>than in the new trucks!
>
>My real question that I would like some information on is what people are
>HONESTLY (please no brag, just fact) getting as fuel mileage on these new
>units, particularly the PS diesel and the V-10 gas. From what I've heard,
12
>mpg is about "normal" for the PS, but I have not heard anything about the
V-10
>gas engine.
>
>Thanks for any input.
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 20:00:48 EST
From: CphgnCwby1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Super-Duty Trucks

I have heard 16, and 14 pulling things with the ps

BART
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 19:23:45 -0600
From: "Stephen Beal"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Member, a story and a problem (long!)

Hi, Bill I'm a new member to. OK lets start with the first thing, Never
install used lifters in any engine. With Fords or any other brand buy a new
set, the reason is as a lifter runs in an engine it rotates ( except roller
lifters ) so it and the cam mate together , when you take out the old
lifters if you are going to reuse them always put them back in the same
hole. If you mix them up and put them in any hole you are asking for a
disaster. Why you ask? Each lobe on a cam is a little bit different and the
toreance changes with wear. If you put in a different old lifter it can
grind the lobe right off, then you have cast iron shavings in your oil that
will cut into every bearing surface in the engine. Now to adjust the
lifters first check to see if there is a shoulder on the stud just below the
threads,( this is a non adjustable stud), if there is no shoulder then if
you want to be sure about the amount of lash, on a 6 cyl. take off the side
cover or covers and install the new parts. Adjust the nut to take all the
slack out of the push rod with the Lifter on the base circle of the cam,( in
other words the big end of the lobe down or opposite the lifter). When you
do this you are at '0' lash. Engine builders then place an indicator on the
rocker arm at the push rod end, and adjust the nut down .050th. It basically
is about 3/4 to 1 turn on the nut. You do this on every rocker, but you have
to turn the motor after every rocker is adjusted to be sure you are on the
base cycle. Got to go now will send more later on your other problem.
Steve
- -----Original Message-----
From: William Zellmann
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, January 21, 1999 11:21 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New Member, a story and a problem (long!)


>I just signed on to the list, so I thought I'd introduce myself, and
>maybe slip in a few questions.
>
>A few months ago, I bought my first Ford, an 82 f-100 short bed with a
>300 I6 and three-speed +OD stick trans. Most of my experience since my
>teens (loooong ago!) has been with Chevy/GM cars. To be honest, the only
>Fords I've EVER worked on were a few Model T's and A's, a '48 (I pulled
>the flattie and put a '54 Dodge Hemi in it--yes, it was a LONG time
>ago!) and a friend's '57 Y-block.
>
>Anyway, I really received a pleasant surprise. I LOVE the ol' truck. I
>bought it off a junk yard for $500 with a blown clutch. After taking
>care of that, the truck became my favorite--especially after a
>compression test showed 165-175 # in all six cylinders, and the
>aftermarket oil pressure gauge I installed showed about 23 psi at idle
>and almost 50 at cruise! The only engine work it needed was a new PCV
>valve--it was blowing oil into the air cleaner.
>
>I've got some problems now, though. It started with a ticking, then
>hammering, lifter. OK, no problem. I know better than to put a new
>lifter on an old cam (ask me how I know!), so I gathered up a few
>lifters from my friendly local boneyard. When I pulled the valve cover,
>I noticed a couple of rockers and pushrods that didn't look so good, so
>I replaced them, too. I picked up a factory service manual at a swap
>meet (well, 2 of the 3 volumes, he didn't have the emissions volume), to
>make sure I had the official info on setting up the valve train--and the
>problems began.
>
>The manual says that my engine has "non-adjustable" rockers. I don't
>understand that--they look like any other stud-mounted rocker. If
>they're mounted on a threaded stud, how can they be "Non-adjustable"?
>and, if they're "non-adjustable", how come the manual has a procedure
>for setting them up (adjusting them?). Problem #1: The manual says to
>use a special Ford tool and a dial indicator to set lifter preload. Of
>course, no auto parts stores had the tool, nor did the dealer, nor even
>a Snap-On truck I flagged down. A local "Ford Guy" told me to simply
>adjust them until they stopped ticking on a warm engine. OK. Didn't
>work. The truck ran like. . .well, you know. A mechanic I trust said
>that he'd never seen one of the tools shown in the manual, and that they
>adjusted them until the ticking stopped, then tightened an additional
>half-turn (Just like on the Chevy V8's I'm used to).
>
>Well, just before I got ready to do it, I read an article in a rod
>magazine that claimed that you could set lifter preload on any engine,
>hot or cold, by spinning the pushrod with your fingers while tightening,
>until resistance is felt, then tighten an additional half-turn. Ok,
>cool! No hot oil bath for me or the engine bay. So, I set it up that
>way, engine cold. Yeah, I probably should have listened to the mechanic.
>
>Well, I have a low-rpm miss, and power is not great. When I pulled it
>back into the garage after the test drive, problem #2 showed itself.
>When I poked my head under the hood with the engine idling, I was
>startled to see bubbles arising around #2 and #3 plugs! I checked, and
>the plugs were tight--and the fluid that was bubbling was OIL, not gas.
>Oh, yeah, and the breather was spitting oil into the air cleaner again.
>
>The only thing I can think of that could make oil bubble around tight
>plugs is a cracked head. Anyone have any other suggestions? Obviously,
>the valve adjustment moved from priority one to priority two--why adjust
>the valves perfectly, only to have to pull the head?
>
>So, that's where I'm at right now. What do you folks think? Should I
>start shopping for a new head?
>
>Any advice will be appreciated.
>
>Bill Zellmann
>Searcy, Arkansas
>'82 F-100 with a headache!
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 17:41:49 -0800 (PST)
From: shy anne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - MY NEW F250

nice truck = )




- ---Jason DiSalvo wrote:
>
> Guys, I just wanted to share my new F250 with you. If you want to
see it go
> to http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.tco.com/myf250/
>
> I got a leftover model. I just put a plow on it. When you are at my
site
> check out the movie at the bottem.
>
> Let me know
>
> -Jason
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

==
- -"God forbid I shall go to any heaven where there are no horses."



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 16:36:53 -0900
From: "Casey R. Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...

Well the 83 has outdone itself again. It has been fixed for a week or
so. This morning, -43 degrees outside, the thing starts right up.
Driving down the road, the solenoid (the new starter has the solenoid
mounted on the starter) kicks in and trys to engage while I am driving.
By the time I got the truck stopped and the battery cable off, the
starter was toast. I hate to say it, but I am going to leave it at home
and not put up with it anymore. I want to thank everyone on the lists
for all the help, but I have to draw the line (even with Fords)
somewhere, and freezing my butt for an hour and a half to get to a phone
pretty well drew that line for me. It was fun listening to all the
message postings and maybe I be back on the list sometime.

For those of you with Ford's that run... May they run longer than mine
:)
Casey Vandor

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 21:37:01 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - All of the sudden...NO START! 92 F-150 5.0 E4OD

No warning, no hard to start...get in hit the key...get several
clicks...let off...hit again...one loud clunk. Same every twist after
that. With volt meter at battery terminals, 12.38...does NOT change with
key twist. Tried to jump across solenoid posts...nothing happens, only
thing not checked yet, does solenoid pass volts.

I truly suspect it does, and that the starter won't pull any amps....Argh,
a starter changing we will go (unless I hear otherwise!)

Thanks!

Dave Harmier
Houston, TX
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 23:37:53 -0500
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dead Truck...

Casey,
Man, I feel so bad for you. Many of us have followed your trials and
tribulations for awhile and have even given some advice along the way.
Sorry to hear about your latest, I knew that if the starter didn't do it
this time you'd be sayin' goodbye to that bad boy. Hey, any make and model
can have it's nuisances! I know it's easy for me to say, but I wouldn't put
a bad rap on Ford just because of all this. Being stranded is no fun at all
and I'm sure your boss may have been growing weary of the calls about the
truck not starting and all. Well, good luck in your new 'venture', whatever
make/model that may be. It was nice exchanging ideas w/you along the way...

Nice to know ya,
Brew


Casey R. Vandor wrote:

> Well the 83 has outdone itself again. It has been fixed for a week or
> so. This morning, -43 degrees outside, the thing starts right up.
> Driving down the road, the solenoid (the new starter has the solenoid
> mounted on the starter) kicks in and trys to engage while I am driving.
> By the time I got the truck stopped and the battery cable off, the
> starter was toast. I hate to say it, but I am going to leave it at home
> and not put up with it anymore. I want to thank everyone on the lists
> for all the help, but I have to draw the line (even with Fords)
> somewhere, and freezing my butt for an hour and a half to get to a phone
> pretty well drew that line for me. It was fun listening to all the
> message postings and maybe I be back on the list sometime.
>
> For those of you with Ford's that run... May they run longer than mine
> :)
> Casey Vandor
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 01:39:18 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: FTE's 2nd anniversary

Hi gang,

Someone just sent me an email asking me about FTE's 2nd
anniversary. The earliest archived email I have is from
January 16, 1997 and its an email asking to be removed
from the list! I started the list two weeks prior to the
first archiving of email so that means our anniversary....

---

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