80-96-list-digest Tuesday, June 15 1999 Volume 03 : Number 167



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - FM steps!
RE: FTE 80-96 - Trailer brakes/91 Design flaws
FTE 80-96 - Computers R Us
FTE 80-96 - 92 F-150 oil pan leaking solved- among other things- Headers anyone?
FTE 80-96 - U-joints anyone?
RE: FTE 80-96 - voltage regulator
Re: FTE 80-96 - U-joints anyone?
FTE 80-96 - Engine Temp Sensor
FTE 80-96 - Re:Steering wheel glove?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Computers R Us
RE: FTE 80-96 - voltage regulator
FTE 80-96 - A bad Ford??
FTE 80-96 - 92 AOD trans fluid capacity
FTE 80-96 - Brake Controller Brake Light Lead
FTE 80-96 - Spray in Bed liners
FTE 80-96 - Re: Early '90's design flaws
FTE 80-96 - intake modifications...
Re: FTE 80-96 - Computers R Us
Re: FTE 80-96 - intake modifications...
RE: FTE 80-96 - f150 engine kill
FTE 80-96 - Guage wiring harness
FTE 80-96 - Re: Alternator Problem--Fire Hazard
Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine Temp Sensor

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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 13:20:44 +0200
From: FXL
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - FM steps!

Sorry, cant find any switch inside, no jumper either! Software?
Regards,
Gunnar
Sweden

Blake Malkamaki wrote:
>
> >Hi again!
> >I have a original Ford radio in my 91 F250 XLT Lariat.
> >It steps 90.1 90.3 90.5 90.7 90.9 etc
> >The European way is 90.1 90.2 90.3 90.4 etc.
> >Any hints on how this could be modified?
> >OK, buy a new one but I like to keep thew original one...
> >Regards,
> >Gunnar
> >Sweden
>
> Some radios have a switch for that. Not sure if the Ford original one does.
>
> Blake
> Little Mountain
> Concord, Ohio
> Early Oil Well Historian
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
> Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
> Desktop Publishing service
> "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 08:35:26 -0600
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Trailer brakes/91 Design flaws

J.S.H,

If you haven't already, check for a connector, under the middle of the dash
and under the rear bumper in case you already have the trailer towing
wiring. Many trucks have them installed at the factory. That would be about
the cleanest I can think of.

- -----Original Message-----
From:J.S.H. [SMTP:F428 ford-trucks.com]
Sent:Sunday, June 13, 1999 10:33 PM
To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:FTE 80-96 - Trailer brakes/91 Design flaws

"I am getting ready to install an electric brake controller on my '86
F-250 and would like to do it as cleanly as possible. For this
controller I need a hot wire, brake lights and a wire to the trailer. I
traced the main fat wire from the alternator and it goes into the cab
and across by the heater."

I would run a 10 ga. wire right from the baterry to the controller,
and back to the trailer plug.Electric brakes need a lot of juice.
A test light should help you find the wire you need coming from the
brake light switch.

"At the rate the truck is going, I project that
it will be "all new" in about two years, because every original part
will have been replaced at least once. It's dependable though, I can
depend on it to break down at the worst possible moment."
"Paint--anyone with a black or gray truck still have any?"

Have white 91 Explorer,original paint, looks brand new.

"Radius arm bushing right next to unshielded side of catalytic
converter"

Build a heat shield

"Cheap lug nuts for alloys--carbon steel lug nut with a decorative press
fit cap. The first time Gomer at the garage hits it with an impact, the
cap is mangled and pops off, and the single size tire wrench no longer
fits the lug nut. DUH! They probably saved 5 cents per lug nut this
way though...

You could try a tire store that leaves Gomer unemployed,or buy some
better nuts.

Etc....Pesonaly I love my three Fords,that why I signed up with a list
titled Ford Truck ENTHUSIASTS
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 10:54:08 EDT
From: RJC988 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Computers R Us

Help! I am usually on the pre-61 list, but they can't help me with this
problem. I am putting a 5.0 and AOD out of a 90 Lincoln Town Car. Has anyone
made this kind of swap in a pre-computer truck? Has anyone used the article
from Donald Haulsee that is on the website (or does anyone know how I can
email him)? I hope to be wiring in a few weeks and would love for someone to
electronically "hold my hand".

Thanks for any help,
Glenn in TN
Soapy the 57 F100
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 10:59:04 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 92 F-150 oil pan leaking solved- among other things- Headers anyone?

Well guys, the gasket has been changed, I ended up snaking it through
just as Luke and Wayne said I should. I did end up pulling the trans and the
transfer case because of leakage problems. While doing the job, I found that
the two engine mounts were broken. One completely one partially. The tranny
mount was partially torn, and the trans was leaking from the dipstick tube,
the adapter tailshaft, and the transfer case. I broke the EGR tube and an
exhaust manifold stud, and I found that the PS manifold is cracked. There
is still mud and clay on the chassis from the time I got stuck in Wharton
State Forest last summer. Also, a cap on each of the two front u-joints
were frozen. Needless to say, nothing is leaking anymore, even though it was
a big job, and Ford should really stock those gaskets, its all done. Thanks
to everyone who helped me out and gave me advice, you guys helped out a lot.
Today, I'm off to weld up that EGR tube, and to look for headers.
Suggestions anyone?

Thanks again,

Joe Downey
Lost in Jersey
92 F-150 4x4 Nite
302/AOD


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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 11:02:21 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - U-joints anyone?

I'm looking for a stronger than factory replacement for my two front
U-joints. For some reason, 1310, 1320, and 1350 joints ring a bell in my
head. Does anyone know which is which and which ones, if any will fit?
Thanks,

Later,

Joe
Lost in jersey
92 F-150 4x4 Nite
302/AOD
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 11:47:01 -0700
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - voltage regulator

Barry:

I haven't had this happen to me personally, but if the regulator shorted out
to ground, that's exactly what would happen.

Good luck,

Todd

- -----Original Message-----
From: barry mitchell [mailto:fishin4bass hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 1999 3:51 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - voltage regulator


Has anyone had a faulty regulator cause an engine to die just like you had
shut the engine off?

Thanks
Barry


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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 14:51:54 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - U-joints anyone?

Joe,
Go with Spicer u-joints, anything else would be uncivilized!
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 14:12:46 -0500
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Engine Temp Sensor

Is it the coolant temp sensor or the intake air temp sensor that tells the
computer that the engine is cold? This is a 90 I6. Now that the weather
has gotten warm it starts, idles, and runs poorly first thing in the
morning. Just like no choke (or enrichment on EFI).
David Anderson
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 21:19:21 +0200
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:Steering wheel glove?

>>Hi folks!
91 F250 DLS Lariat XLT. Any hints on what to do with a worn out steering
wheel glove?>>>

I also have the worn leather problem that I think is referred to above.
Does anyone know if a wheel from a Custom or XL model would be the same
except without the leather? It would have to accommodate the cruise buttons
in the hub. This is before air bags.
David Anderson

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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 17:34:09 -0400
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Computers R Us

I've installed a few of these upgrades. '88 300 into '82 F150, '89 302 into
'83 Cougar, '88 2.3 Turbo into '84 Mustang. It helps to have the wiring
diagrams for both vehicles involved, but it can be done without. The
computer harness is often separate from the chassis harness of the car,
making it easier for the manufacturer to offer different engines, and easier
for you to get the harness out in one piece.

There are not as many wires to connect as you might think;
You need to identify these in the computer harness:
Power
Keep Alive Power
Ignition on
Ignition Start
Fuel Pump
Ground
Check Engine Light

You need to find these in the chassis harness of the vehicle it's going
into:
Battery (Usually the solenoid post)
Ignition On
Ignition Start

The wiring for the dash guages may also be included in the engine
harness. They aren't electrically connected to the engine harness, but it
can be handy to use them.
I haven't seen any websites on the topic, but given how well the cars work
after the swap, it should be pretty popular.

Good luck,

Matt


- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Monday, June 14, 1999 10:54 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Computers R Us


> Help! I am usually on the pre-61 list, but they can't help me with this
> problem. I am putting a 5.0 and AOD out of a 90 Lincoln Town Car. Has
anyone
> made this kind of swap in a pre-computer truck? Has anyone used the
article
> from Donald Haulsee that is on the website (or does anyone know how I can
> email him)? I hope to be wiring in a few weeks and would love for someone
to
> electronically "hold my hand".
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Glenn in TN
> Soapy the 57 F100
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 15:46:17 PDT
From: barry mitchell
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - voltage regulator

- ----Original Message Follows----
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
To: "'80-96-list ford-trucks.com'"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - voltage regulator
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 11:47:01 -0700

Barry:

I haven't had this happen to me personally, but if the regulator shorted out
to ground, that's exactly what would happen.

Good luck,

Todd

- -----Original Message-----
From: barry mitchell [mailto:fishin4bass hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 1999 3:51 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - voltage regulator


Has anyone had a faulty regulator cause an engine to die just like you had
shut the engine off?

Thanks
Barry


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Todd thanks for your reply. I found my problem and it wasn't far off from
what you said. After changing everything. I could think of I found a bare
wire on the battery side of the coil that was getting against the block. I
really was confused when I was pulled for almost a mile and and it wouldn't
even kick start.

Thanks again

Barry


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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 17:05:41 PDT
From: 2insane excite.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - A bad Ford??

Well I don't know about your FORD, but mine works great. 89 F-150 4x4.
Throws mud around and pulls out other lesser vehicles from the mud, races
and beats them (most times) and looks nice too. Black paint since 89, still
there. As for the door locks and windows, get rid of the power and move them
by hand. no problems for me there either. tranny doesn't sound that great
sometimes but it still zips me around. It's even a good truck compared to
other FORDS, my friends got a 95 f-150 and I beat him whenever we race.
That's with a stock engine, no mods too. I think those newer ones have
mass-air. He's got power stuff up the rectum on his truck and hasn't had
very many troubles with it, except for his "push-button" 4x4 always shows it
is engaged but never engages and he's too lazy to get it back to working
order.

me ole .02
DK




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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 19:26:43 -0500
From: David Cole
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 92 AOD trans fluid capacity

Does anyone know the trans fluid capacity for a 92 F-150 w/302/AOD,
including torque converter? I'm going to change my trans fluid and need to
know how many quarts to buy. I know that it will take several quarts more
if I'm able to drain the converter. Does anyone know if this converter has
a drain plug? I've seen some Ford converters that don't have a plug.

A friend of mine just changed his in his 95 w 351-W/4R70W and he drained
the converter. The change was 15 quarts.

Also, any thoughts one changing the fluid in a high miles transmission.
Some people say you should change it on a regular basis or not at all. I
have heard rumors (but never actually seen one) where the trans failed
shortly after a fluid change when the fluid was old/high miles. My 92 has
never had any trans problems. It has 160K miles, mostly high speed
Interstate highway driving. I also tow a 5500 lb drag car/trailer combo a
few thousand miles per year. The fluid has been changed once before at 95K
miles. It works fine, but does downshift a bit hard. It has had the hard
downshifts since 90-95K miles. I just learned to live with it and it's not
any worse.

Thanks for any input.

David Cole

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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 18:10:27 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brake Controller Brake Light Lead

If I had a wiring diagram I probably wouldn't have to ask this but I
also need to know where to tap into the brake light signal. The switch
is one point that works but there is also a connector that just makes a
loop of light green wire that also works. The wire from the switch is
dark green. The Tekonsha manuals I can read online say on '89 trucks to
use the wire in the turn signal harness, so that is one more option.
This truck is equipped with a cruise control if that makes any
difference. The controller I am using is a Tekonsha hydraulic type.

Birken
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 21:46:48 -0500
From: Neal Osburn
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Spray in Bed liners

>I have been thinking about a bed liner for years but have stopped at the
>cost. A friend showed me a add in a bass pro's truck magazine for a
>black
>do-it-yourself stuff, About 45$ a gallon, then a sprayer for 35$. I went
>to
>NAPA and the stuff was listed in there computer. The Napa guy also
>showed me
>Xilacote (sp) 18 different colors, 75$ a gallon. You can use a standard
>sprayer (I think with a bigger tip) no mixing needed although you do
>have to
>use a specific color primer for the color your spraying. I'm thinking
>that
>the more expensive stuff probably has a better texture and durability,
>as
>well as it says how many square feet it will do. Anyway, it like I'll be
>starting to do bed liners. just a cheaper option for those of us who
>want to
>save money.
>Steve


Steve,
I'm guessing that you are talking about the "Dupli-color Truck Bed Coating"
at NAPA. If so, don't waste your money. Go to Wal-Mart and buy a spray
can for $7 and see what I'm talking about. I too, have been considering a
liner for my '93, but didn't want to pay $500. After checking out many of
the DIY products, I got a Line-X sprayed in today. Believe me- it would
cost you about the same in DIY kits to get the same thickness as one of the
"pro" jobs. The Dupli-color stuff looked like flat black spray paint,
Herculiner (sold at Bumper-to-Bumper for $99/gal) is like a bucket of tar
that you roll on, Durabak is plastic w/chunks of rubber (also $99/gal)... I
could go on, but won't. It is my estimate that it would cost about $300 in
just materials for an 8 ft. bed at 1/4" thickness. I was going to have the
bed sand-blasted for another $100, then I'd have to add in my "labor". It
just didn't seem to be saving me any money to do-it-myself.

>
>I'm curious. How much product would it take to do, for example, an 8'
>bed? A gallon? More? Less?

Ken,
According to the manufacturers, it takes at least 5 quarts to do an 8' bed.
Often, a quart is more than 1/4 the price of a gallon.


Neal Osburn
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.visualcities.com/NoMo

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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 22:18:53 -0500
From: "Shawn & Jennifer Clark"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Early '90's design flaws

>>J.S.H." wrote:
Build a heat shield

That was Ford's job and I've already been stuck for the repair. However, I
may get around to it when I replace the aging exhaust system--with a
cracked exhaust manifold, it barely got past its last inspection.

>>You could try a tire store that leaves Gomer unemployed,or buy some
better nuts.

Again, Ford should have put decent lugnuts on it to begin with rather than
going CHEAP. Also, I don't make a habit of using tire stores that hire
Gomers, but you learn by trial and error who employs them. I torque my own
lug nuts whenever possible to avoid problems (never warped a rotor on a
tire that I torqued...)

>>
Etc....Pesonaly I love my three Fords,that why I signed up with a list
titled Ford Truck ENTHUSIASTS


That's nice, but I signed up for a list with helpful information on what
problems to expect, what improvements are available, and how to fix parts
which frequently fail. I did not sign up for a mutual appreciation
society. This group has been helpful in identifying problems and fixes
(thanks for all of your help, folks.)

Being an apologist for penny wise, pound foolish decisions by the
manufacturer seems rather absurd to me.

Shawn Clark



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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 22:28:04 -0500
From: Neal Osburn
Subject: FTE 80-96 - intake modifications...

>I remember back in the day around 88 or so where i believe stangers
>were doing some kind of modification to the intake or the throttle body with
>disconnecting the coolant....I'm assuming it was there to heat up the air
for
>cold mornings, not sure just checking.....

Doesn't the engine have to get warm before coolant begins to flow?
If so, why would they heat the air with coolant when the engine is warmer?

I might be wrong, but, for normal driving, you NEED that coolant flow to
keep the TB cool. The EGR system puts extremely hot gas back into the
intake right behind the TB. Without the cooling plate, the TB and manifold
will get even hotter which will make the air going into the cylinders even
hotter- thus reducing power.

Just my thoughts,
Neal

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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 23:30:01 EDT
From: RJC988 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Computers R Us

Matt,

Thanks for getting back so soon. I am keeping your address close at hand so
that when I start that (and it should be soon) I might make it.

Tell me your not an electrician or a Ford Certified mechanic. I have had both
tell me I could do it, but I'm not convinced. I have a Helms electrical and
vacuum troubleshooting guide, but I do not have the wires labeled from the
removal from the Lincoln. Hopefully I can trace most of the wires you have
mentioned.

Should I try and use the Lincoln's wiring harness or do you recommend an
after-market kit? Ron Francis has a great kit that should match up with my
application well.

Glenn in TN
Soapy the 57 F-100
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 23:37:26 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - intake modifications...

In a message dated 6/14/99 11:29:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
nomo webzone.net writes:


keep the TB cool. The EGR system puts extremely hot gas back into the
intake right behind the TB. Without the cooling plate, the TB and manifold
will get even hotter which will make the air going into the cylinders even
hotter- thus reducing power.

Just my thoughts,
Neal >>


You would be correct on the cooldown because of the EGR. I am in the process
of trying to get together a plumbing system to run Freon through the TB
instead of coolant. Hmmmm...can we say MORE POWER? But for a limited run
situation, say drag racing =) , it would keep the air cool enough to give you
minimal gains. Especially if you ice the intakes down between rounds.
Later,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 23:03:20 -0500
From: "Harris, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - f150 engine kill

I caught mine before it locked up, sounded okay but the oil that accumulates
around the clutch started collecting metal shavings in the area. When I
went to the parts store to price a new compressor, the counter guy asked if
I wanted a compressor or a clutch. The clutch was around $85 dollars so I
went that way first. When I pulled the old clutch, I wasn't careful and
used too much movement side to side and I think I screwed up the shaft seal
because it leaked worse than before. I am going to let the a/c pro's take
care of it from now on!

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Paul Scheet [SMTP:pscheet stat.uiowa.edu]
> Sent:Sunday, June 13, 1999 11:05 AM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - f150 engine kill
>
> has anyone heard of this problem before?
> on my '96 150... when i turn on either the A/C or the defrost, there is a
> brief screeching sound and then the engine dies.
>
> with the AC, first time i thought it just needed power so i revved it
> slightly first and it did it again. i tried the defrost, same result.
> when i ran the mix (defrost and floor) for just cold non-ac air, it was
> fine for about 30 sec and then it slowly started in on the screeching
> sound. i turned that off at that point.
>
> any ideas on what's causing this? first time i tried any of these options
> for a few weeks. this was the first time i tried a/c since last august.
>
> thanks, paul
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.stat.uiowa.edu/~pscheet
> (319) 335-2009
>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 23:27:09 -0500
From: Ezekial
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Guage wiring harness

I have a friend that needs a new gauge/dash wiring harness. Somehow his
got fried and Ford discontinued them. The truck is an 85 F-350 4x4
without the tach in the cluster. If anyone knows where he could pick
one up at, please let me know

- --
1993 Ford F-150 4x4 Off-Road, ext.cab short bed, 351(5.8)
3.55 gears, 31x10.5 Daytona Stag LT
1988 Ford F-150 2wd 302(5.0) auto, long bed-reg cab
Has been totaled and I am re-building it
Was my Grandpas truck, so theres sentimental value
It had the meanest factory 302 I have ever seen
1966 Mustang Fastback 289HP heads, 302block, Holley 4bbl,
EB intake, chrome headers-duals w/ super turbos,
4sp toploader, 9' rear 3.73 locked, Crager SS wheels
( F O R S A L E $7500 )
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.galstar.com/~derrick/index.html
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 23:29:22 -0500
From: "Shawn & Jennifer Clark"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Alternator Problem--Fire Hazard

James asked:
>>Yikes, I just bought a 1989 F150 and within the first two weeks the
alternator went out. I just got a replacement and it plugged into
the wiring harness just like the one that I replaced. What is this
known fire hazard and what should I do to prevent a fire from
occuring?

I'm not sure if it applies to your 89. Perhaps one of the gurus can help
or you might check the TSB's. My guess is that there would have been some
info in the box if the plug required replacement. When I picked up a
lifetime warranty replacement alternator from Autozone for my 91, the parts
man warned me I would have to cut and replace the harness with the provided
plug. The instructions actually say, "Ford IAR Harness Plug DANGER
FIRE HAZARD! You must replace the original wiring harness plug if it is
corroded burned, or loose." My understanding is that the plastic did not
have sufficient temperature resistance for the service and there had been
some fires. I heeded the warning since the ears snapped off of my plug
despite determined efforts to prevent breakage (they were very brittle, a
likely result of heat damage). It did require a little soldering.

For those of you who have had electrical gremlins, I'll share a little
background here in case it helps someone. About 8 months ago the truck
stranded me again, when the battery failed. The failure was a bit strange,
because the battery got low once, recharged fully and held charge for
several days, and then died several days later on a trip (voltage fell
quickly as I turned it back around in an unsuccessful run for the house.)
As expected, the battery tested bad and was replaced. When I road tested
the truck I found that it was still losing some charge. I pulled the
alternator and had it tested. It passed with flying colors. I kept
digging and found that one of my cables was in sorry shape, so I replaced
it and the accessory belt too, just for added piece of mind. I put the old
alternator back on and the voltage was back up to 14.5 or so.

It worked acceptably after that for about 4 months. Then I took the truck
on a trip back into the mountains in West Texas. I had to do a fair bit of
driving at night, 9 miles from any public road, near the back of the ranch
property. This was all slow 1st gear stuff, cold, much at idle, with
periodic stabs on the accelerator to climb. I joked with my wife, "It sure
would be a pain if the truck broke down back here or if I got it
well-and-truly stuck..." Apparently, the truck is telepathic, because
shortly thereafter the voltage began falling. I stopped, turned off the
lights, and revved it up decently, but still the voltage was falling. So I
gunned the hell out of it until I got the revs high enough to charge it. I
kept a close eye on it after that to conserve charge and noticed it had
intermittent problems charging. When I got it home I pulled the alternator
again and began taking it apart. The brushes were OK, but I could not get
the screws off of the voltage regulator (man, they were tight!), so I
finally just replaced the whole unit. There have been no further charging
problems since then, and the voltage is behaving predictably, only dipping
when the blower fan is on. So my guess is that the alternator's voltage
regulator was the primary problem, which killed the battery in short order.
The failing cable may have been a contributor or even the root cause of
the alternator and battery failure. Heck, I don't know for sure,
electrical engineering was one of my weaker subjects.

Hope this helps,

Shawn Clark





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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 22:13:20 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"....

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