80-96-list-digest Monday, June 14 1999 Volume 03 : Number 166



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re:FTE 80-96 - Spray in Bed liners
FTE 80-96 - f150 engine kill
FTE 80-96 - Re: Early 90s design flaws
Re: FTE 80-96 - f150 engine kill
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Early 90s design flaws
Re: FTE 80-96 - f150 engine kill
FTE 80-96 - fan
FTE 80-96 - Re: fire hazard with Alternator replacement
RE: FTE 80-96 - Early '90's design flaws
Re: FTE 80-96 -intake modifications...
RE: FTE 80-96 - How 2 unstick frozen heat riser in exhaust manifo ld?
RE: FTE 80-96 - Early '90's design flaws
FTE 80-96 - Truck trouble vent.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Lockup "off" switch
FTE 80-96 - Trailer brakes/91 Design flaws
FTE 80-96 - Broken down MOPAR
FTE 80-96 - Lockup "off" switch

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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 06:14:24 +0000
From: Ken Justice
Subject: Re:FTE 80-96 - Spray in Bed liners

Subject: FTE 80-96 - Spray in Bed liners


I have been thinking about a bed liner for years but have stopped at the
cost. A friend showed me a add in a bass pro's truck magazine for a
black
do-it-yourself stuff, About 45$ a gallon, then a sprayer for 35$. I went
to
NAPA and the stuff was listed in there computer. The Napa guy also
showed me
Xilacote (sp) 18 different colors, 75$ a gallon. You can use a standard
sprayer (I think with a bigger tip) no mixing needed although you do
have to
use a specific color primer for the color your spraying. I'm thinking
that
the more expensive stuff probably has a better texture and durability,
as
well as it says how many square feet it will do. Anyway, it like I'll be
starting to do bed liners. just a cheaper option for those of us who
want to
save money.
Steve

Hello Steve,

I'm curious. How much product would it take to do, for example, an 8'
bed? A gallon? More? Less?

Regards,

Ken Justice
Discover the Working Mat!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.workingmat.com

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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 11:05:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: Paul Scheet
Subject: FTE 80-96 - f150 engine kill

has anyone heard of this problem before?
on my '96 150... when i turn on either the A/C or the defrost, there is a
brief screeching sound and then the engine dies.

with the AC, first time i thought it just needed power so i revved it
slightly first and it did it again. i tried the defrost, same result.
when i ran the mix (defrost and floor) for just cold non-ac air, it was
fine for about 30 sec and then it slowly started in on the screeching
sound. i turned that off at that point.

any ideas on what's causing this? first time i tried any of these options
for a few weeks. this was the first time i tried a/c since last august.

thanks, paul

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.stat.uiowa.edu/~pscheet
(319) 335-2009

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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 11:20:54 -0500
From: "Christopher Ferino"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Early 90s design flaws

> 1. Paint--anyone with a black or gray truck still have any?

Darkwing (my '93 Bronco) has both, with plenty.

> 2. E4OD--'nuff said

Knock on your material of choice - I haven't had any problems with my E4OD.
Yet.

> 5. Radius arm bushing right next to unshielded side of catalytic converter

Just had this replaced. Since you generally have to buy 'em in pairs, I've
got the other one ready and waiting for the next failure.

> 6. Engine Management System--Speed-density control systems suck, and Ford
> seems to have more trouble than most (they love to ping). Gas mileage on
> these engines is all over the map, mine is pretty low.

I average 14-15 w/my E4OD-equipped 302, and got the same on my AOD-equipped
'87 w/302. Wish it was mass air, though - it'd be easier to upgrade (and
I'd be able to swap some parts between my "other" 302-equipped Ford, my '90
Mustang).

Haven't experienced the other problems listed yet, but I'm only at 76,000
miles on Darkwing, so I imagine things are coming. I do know that I
replaced the power window motor and door lock actuator on my '87 before I
sold it - but I will give Ford credit for those two, as the truck had
150,000 miles on it when the motor/actuator went.

- --Chris
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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 12:24:12 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - f150 engine kill

the clutch part of the compressor or the belt may be slightly loose. Ive had
that happen to me a few times. The one time that happened the bearing in the
clutch prt of the compressor went out on me Pep Boys had the replacement
for about $100, and it was relatively easy to replace
Hope that helps
Bob
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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 12:25:29 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Early 90s design flaws

yeah well the front bench seats are kind of weak too... Im 255 lbs and ive
busted two of them just bouncing around on the smooth NYC streets
Bob
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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 13:19:37 EDT
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - f150 engine kill


on my '96 150... when i turn on either the A/C or the defrost, there is a
brief screeching sound and then the engine dies. >>

Did you open the hood and watch the a/c compressor while someone in the cab
turns on the a/c? You'll probably see that you compressor is locked
up....sadly, this is not that un-common.....
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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 15:03:03 EDT
From: craig n eggerman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - fan

I picked up a used 10" pusher electric fan that I mounted on the driver's
side between the grill bracket and the side of the radiator frame. I had
to trim the back of the grill to make it fit. Paid $15 at a junk yard.
Seems to help keep my 89 E-350 a little cooler along with the oil cooler
and big transmission cooler.
Craig
Eggerman juno.com
Casper,Wyoming
O|||||O

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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 19:41:45 EST
From: "James"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: fire hazard with Alternator replacement

Shawn says:

> 11. Alternator and wiring--Another part that failed before 100,000. When
> the alternator is replaced you have to replace part of the electrical
> harness and resolder to eliminate a known fire hazard.

Yikes, I just bought a 1989 F150 and within the first two weeks the
alternator went out. I just got a replacement and it plugged into
the wiring harness just like the one that I replaced. What is this
known fire hazard and what should I do to prevent a fire from
occuring?

Thanks,
James Hiers



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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 22:19:10 -0400
From: "Ratcliff, Dale"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Early '90's design flaws

I have a 92 with 124K miles. The only big problem has been the alternator
(x2) . I do have a problem with fuel leaking from the rear tank to the front
tank. I'm told it is a check valve in the front fuel pump $269 at the local
dealer. This has been a very reliable truck. I hope my next one is as good
as this one.
By the way is there anyone out there with a crew cab they would like to
trade for a super cab?

Dale Ratcliff
dratc telxon.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Shawn & Jennifer Clark [SMTP:sd&jkclark tyler.net]
> Sent:Saturday, June 12, 1999 1:51 PM
> To:80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:RE: FTE 80-96 - Early '90's design flaws
>
>
> >>
> Eric Sneed wrote:
>
> I had experienced the exact same thing about a month ago, my pedal went
> to the floor with hardly any braking at all. the scary thing is that
> this would be a very dangerous situation. My neighbor(mechanical
> Engineer) had stopped by while I was finally fixing the problem and he
> agreed that this is a VERY Poor design on the part of ford. So as great
> as these Fords are they are still so to say "human" after all.
>
> Well I feel better now that I have vented
>
>
> I've got a '91 F-150 and am beginning to conclude that is a rolling museum
> of "Very Poor design." I'm a chemical engineer and have done plenty of
> process equipment design. At the rate the truck is going, I project that
> it will be "all new" in about two years, because every original part will
> have been replaced at least once. It's dependable though, I can depend on
> it to break down at the worst possible moment. It's really pretty sad
> because this thing has been extremely well maintained mechanically. It is
> a challenge to keep up with the maintenance because things fail in rapid
> fire fashion. I've been a bit lost on the wax thread, because my Ford
> doesn't have enough paint left to wax...
>
> Maybe we should start an early '90's Ford poor design/build quality
> thread,
> my abbreviated list starts off like:
> 1. Paint--anyone with a black or gray truck still have any?
> 2. E4OD--'nuff said
> 3. Throttle cable--plastic grommet at the pedal, sloppy production
> tolerance in the sheath, etc.
> 4. Exhaust header on 302--poor mechanical design causes it to crack at
> rear cylinder on passenger side because of cantilever, flexibility issues
> and amount of weight hanging/vibrating off of it.
> 5. Radius arm bushing right next to unshielded side of catalytic
> converter
> 6. Engine Management System--Speed-density control systems suck, and Ford
> seems to have more trouble than most (they love to ping). Gas mileage on
> these engines is all over the map, mine is pretty low.
> 7. AC quick connect fittings--the quickest route for CFC's into the
> environment. Ford had it in for stratospheric ozone.
> 8. Cheap lug nuts for alloys--carbon steel lug nut with a decorative
> press
> fit cap. The first time Gomer at the garage hits it with an impact, the
> cap is mangled and pops off, and the single size tire wrench no longer
> fits
> the lug nut. DUH! They probably saved 5 cents per lug nut this way
> though...
> 9. Power window motor gears--plastic that shatters after a couple of
> years, Ford saved another 5 cents per door on this design. 100% failure
> rate before 100,000 miles is unacceptable.
> 10. Power door lock actuators--not sure what the cause is, but 100%
> failure rate before 100,000 miles is unacceptable.
> 11. Alternator and wiring--Another part that failed before 100,000. When
> the alternator is replaced you have to replace part of the electrical
> harness and resolder to eliminate a known fire hazard.
> 12. Rear brake problem mentioned by other posters
> 13. Front caliper rail sticking problem
>
> Aaaaah, I feel much better now. I've certainly paid for the right to
> gripe
> about the design of this truck.
>
> Shawn Clark
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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 22:37:30 EDT
From: Mobilepdr aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 -intake modifications...

I remember back in the day around 88 or so where i believe stangers
were doing some kind of modification to the intake or the throttle body with
disconnecting the coolant....I'm assuming it was there to heat up the air for
cold mornings, not sure just checking.....I have the 96 5.0 and i'm looking
to do any modifications i can without going to far or to expensive....I have
taken out the air box and i am usiing a k&n i've taken out that lil screen
also in the map sensor.......I've got a hyperchip which isn't worth no
$250.00 and installed 3'' dynomax exhaust cat back.......Sounds great ..any
one have any info on this or any related topic i would appreciate a reply
thanks in advance...............ding
96 ford explorer awd 5.0
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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 22:47:06 -0400
From: "Ratcliff, Dale"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - How 2 unstick frozen heat riser in exhaust manifo ld?

Here's a trick I learned. Melt candle wax on the frozen part then let it sit
so the wax can seep in. Then the part should free up fairly easily.

Dale Ratcliff
dratc telxon.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Jim Cannon [SMTP:cannon zapware.com]
> Sent:Friday, June 11, 1999 10:01 PM
> To:Ford Trucks
> Subject:FTE 80-96 - How 2 unstick frozen heat riser in exhaust
> manifold?
>
> Anybody got any ideas on easy ways to get frozen heat riser valve in
> exhaust manifold unstuck? Mine is rusted solid. I would be happy to just
> force it open and leave it frozen open. I'd rather NOT pull the manifold.
> I'm sure I can get it unstuck if I do that. Thanks!
>
> Jim Cannon
> Houston, TX
> '29 Ford Model A Phaeton
> '63 Buick Riviera
> '80 Ford F-150
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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 23:10:33 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Early '90's design flaws

>1. Paint--anyone with a black or gray truck still have any?

Well the maroon on our 89 is all coming off the doors. I have heard they
used water based primer under the paint to please the environmental
extremists.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
Desktop Publishing service
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."


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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 22:13:01 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Truck trouble vent.

Okay,
1: Paint - Our '88 Black F-150 got a repaint under warranty in about '92.
My '92 in red
looks pretty good still (After a good waxing!)

2: Windows - '88 were roll up (remember those?) My '92 Okay so far (Fingers
crossed)

3: Door Lock - My pass side was not working well, has been fine lately???

4: Inside door handle - EVERYONE get some lube into yours!!! I put on a
junk yard used one recently because I couldn't get out!!!

5: Exhaust - Hmmm pass. side? My drivers side is cracked.!(strongly
considering shorty headers...)

6: Brakes - New rear shoes, and some high temp anti seize made my truck
stop great!

I know Dodge guys, and Chevy guys who've had considerable trouble as
well...
I'll keep my Ford Thanks! (and buy another!)

Dave H.
Houston
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 00:08:38 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Lockup "off" switch

ooopppps, my bad....
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Page
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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 21:32:56 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Trailer brakes/91 Design flaws

"I am getting ready to install an electric brake controller on my '86
F-250 and would like to do it as cleanly as possible. For this
controller I need a hot wire, brake lights and a wire to the trailer. I
traced the main fat wire from the alternator and it goes into the cab
and across by the heater."

I would run a 10 ga. wire right from the baterry to the controller,
and back to the trailer plug.Electric brakes need a lot of juice.
A test light should help you find the wire you need coming from the
brake light switch.

"At the rate the truck is going, I project that
it will be "all new" in about two years, because every original part
will have been replaced at least once. It's dependable though, I can
depend on it to break down at the worst possible moment."
"Paint--anyone with a black or gray truck still have any?"

Have white 91 Explorer,original paint, looks brand new.

"Radius arm bushing right next to unshielded side of catalytic
converter"

Build a heat shield

"Cheap lug nuts for alloys--carbon steel lug nut with a decorative press
fit cap. The first time Gomer at the garage hits it with an impact, the
cap is mangled and pops off, and the single size tire wrench no longer
fits the lug nut. DUH! They probably saved 5 cents per lug nut this
way though...

You could try a tire store that leaves Gomer unemployed,or buy some
better nuts.

Etc....Pesonaly I love my three Fords,that why I signed up with a list
titled Ford Truck ENTHUSIASTS
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 00:46:14 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Broken down MOPAR

Gang,
Just thought I'd drop a funny story on you. I was crusin down I-85 today to
go to the mall, when a Dodge RT full-size came screamin by. He saw the
"Superchips" sticker on my hood and proceeded to show he wanted to play. Well
at the OK from my girl, I dropped the hammer on his butt and started to pull
away from him. Next thing I know he suddenly drops back and the back end of
his truck pops up off the ground. He slows considerably and got it off the
side of the road. I went back to help him (feeling sorry for helping him mess
up his truck). When I pulled up, he laughed and then thanked me for the offer
for the ride. But he said, "I have had this 1998 P.O.S. back to the dealer 7
times for driveline vibration and they told me they couldn't find anything.
Well I found it for them, and they are gonna pay to tow it". I then proceeded
to inquire about any other problems he's had. I wont go into terrible detail,
but the total of warranty repairs and dealer trips is over 30 and he's only
had the truck a year. I think we ought to count ourselves fortunate to have
the "best built trucks"
My .02
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
"Hazardous Material"
Wayne's Page
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 09:55:08 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnar?= Huse
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Lockup "off" switch

Wayne asked:
- - a way to do that on the AODE/4R70W style. I watched my tach during a
run tonight at the track and
I visually watched my rpms drop at lockup and my speedo hesitated on the
climb when the lockup occurred. This has got to be killing my times and
probably the tranny in the long run....HELP!

Wayne,
For racing, try running with your 4-way (hazard) blinkers on, that....


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