80-96-list-digest Sunday, June 13 1999 Volume 03 : Number 165



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - vehicle weight
Re: FTE 80-96 - waxing
FTE 80-96 - Spray in Bed liners
FTE 80-96 - Re: Lockup "off" switch
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Lockup "off" switch
FTE 80-96 - '86 Electric Trailer Brake Installation
RE: FTE 80-96 - Early '90's design flaws
Re: FTE 80-96 - 92 F-150 Oil pan gasket leaking
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Lockup "off" switch
FTE 80-96 - RE:Brakes
Re: FTE 80-96 - Early '90's design flaws
FTE 80-96 - RE: Fuel Pressure Regulator Testing
FTE 80-96 - voltage regulator
Re: FTE 80-96 - Early '90's design flaws

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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 05:16:55 PDT
From: "Jim Kudulis"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - vehicle weight

Bob,
I have a slide in camper also.
You need to consider not only the payload but the axle weighting.
Your best bet is to go to a local feed mill, truck stop, salvage yard or
stone quarry that has a scale. Usually it is about $3.00 to weigh your
vehicle. You should weigh both axles independently when you are fully
loaded, gas, gear, yourself and your navigator. Compare the readings with
the recommendations on the door post. If you are fully liscensed and your
truck is perfect you might also try the state trooper weigh station for 18
wheelers. That's risky though.
Jim



On Fri, 11 Jun 1999 20:07:28 -0700, bob chaytor wrote:

> Howdy
> Does anyone know the weight of a empty 88 F150. Just trying to figure my
payload . They are starting to get sticky on overweight trucks up here. my
GVW
> is 5400 # and I'm packing a 8' camper at about 1300 #.
> THANKS
> BOB CHAYTOR
> SOOKE BC
> mail to: berkleybob ampsc.com
>
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 07:04:52 PDT
From: "Jim Kudulis"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - waxing

Be darn careful. With that kind of tool you can take the paint right off
quick.
Jim


On Sat, 12 Jun 1999 02:37:47 EDT, JSC721 aol.com wrote:

> Hey Scott,
> An orbital buffer is ok to apply wax, but dont expect it to bring up a
high
> gloss on paint that needs to be buffed out. A high speed buffing wheel
like a
> dewalt or a milwaulkee that has a maximum rpm rating of 3000 will do the
job.
> When using the right products, you will get a rich deep gloss that will
amaze
> you. You can get a decent gloss by hand, but it can not compare to what a

> high speed buffer will do.
> good luck.
>
> Joe
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 09:43:18 -0500
From: "Steve Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Spray in Bed liners

I have been thinking about a bed liner for years but have stopped at the
cost. A friend showed me a add in a bass pro's truck magazine for a black
do-it-yourself stuff, About 45$ a gallon, then a sprayer for 35$. I went to
NAPA and the stuff was listed in there computer. The Napa guy also showed me
Xilacote (sp) 18 different colors, 75$ a gallon. You can use a standard
sprayer (I think with a bigger tip) no mixing needed although you do have to
use a specific color primer for the color your spraying. I'm thinking that
the more expensive stuff probably has a better texture and durability, as
well as it says how many square feet it will do. Anyway, it like I'll be
starting to do bed liners. just a cheaper option for those of us who want to
save money.
Steve

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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 11:02:38 -0500
From: "Christopher Ferino"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Lockup "off" switch

> I know that a few of you have figured out a way to wire up a switch to
> control the lockup function of the E4OD trannies. I am wondering if there is
> a way to do that on the AODE/4R70W style. Being as they are the predecessor
> of the E4OD, are the wiring harnesses and the color codes for the wires the
> same?

I don't know the answer to Wayne's question, but his note prompts another
question - I thought the E4OD was the next generation of the C6, and the
AODE was the next generation of the AOD - is that not the case?

- --c
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 10:49:34 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Lockup "off" switch

The E40D came out in 1990 so it was out a good few years before the
AODE/4R70W. The AODE is the processor controlled version of the AOD and I
believe it was first in use in '92. The 4R70W is pretty much identical to
the AODE, only it uses a wide ratio gearset. The only thing in common
between the AODE and the E40D is the fact that they are computer controlled.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Ferino
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, June 12, 1999 9:01 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Lockup "off" switch


>> I know that a few of you have figured out a way to wire up a switch to
>> control the lockup function of the E4OD trannies. I am wondering if there
is
>> a way to do that on the AODE/4R70W style. Being as they are the
predecessor
>> of the E4OD, are the wiring harnesses and the color codes for the wires
the
>> same?
>
>I don't know the answer to Wayne's question, but his note prompts another
>question - I thought the E4OD was the next generation of the C6, and the
>AODE was the next generation of the AOD - is that not the case?
>
>--c
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>

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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 11:23:46 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '86 Electric Trailer Brake Installation

I am getting ready to install an electric brake controller on my '86
F-250 and would like to do it as cleanly as possible. For this
controller I need a hot wire, brake lights and a wire to the trailer. I
traced the main fat wire from the alternator and it goes into the cab
and across by the heater. However I can't tell where this one goes.
One that looks promising is a smaller black wire that comes into the
fuse box and feeds the fuses for the tail lights, courtesey lamps, horn,
and lighter. Another option is that I think a previous owner had one at
one time, and there is a circuit breaker on the outside of the firewall
that has a big yellow wire into it, and made quite a spark when I bumped
a part into it once.

As far as the brake lights, the switch has two wires into it. I can't
tell where either of them go. Also, there are several 2-pin connectors
under the dash that just loop back on themselves. All in all, an awful
lot of wires. Has anyone done this before?

Birken
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 13:51:21 -0500
From: "Shawn & Jennifer Clark"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Early '90's design flaws

>>
Eric Sneed wrote:

I had experienced the exact same thing about a month ago, my pedal went
to the floor with hardly any braking at all. the scary thing is that
this would be a very dangerous situation. My neighbor(mechanical
Engineer) had stopped by while I was finally fixing the problem and he
agreed that this is a VERY Poor design on the part of ford. So as great
as these Fords are they are still so to say "human" after all.

Well I feel better now that I have vented


I've got a '91 F-150 and am beginning to conclude that is a rolling museum
of "Very Poor design." I'm a chemical engineer and have done plenty of
process equipment design. At the rate the truck is going, I project that
it will be "all new" in about two years, because every original part will
have been replaced at least once. It's dependable though, I can depend on
it to break down at the worst possible moment. It's really pretty sad
because this thing has been extremely well maintained mechanically. It is
a challenge to keep up with the maintenance because things fail in rapid
fire fashion. I've been a bit lost on the wax thread, because my Ford
doesn't have enough paint left to wax...

Maybe we should start an early '90's Ford poor design/build quality thread,
my abbreviated list starts off like:
1. Paint--anyone with a black or gray truck still have any?
2. E4OD--'nuff said
3. Throttle cable--plastic grommet at the pedal, sloppy production
tolerance in the sheath, etc.
4. Exhaust header on 302--poor mechanical design causes it to crack at
rear cylinder on passenger side because of cantilever, flexibility issues
and amount of weight hanging/vibrating off of it.
5. Radius arm bushing right next to unshielded side of catalytic converter
6. Engine Management System--Speed-density control systems suck, and Ford
seems to have more trouble than most (they love to ping). Gas mileage on
these engines is all over the map, mine is pretty low.
7. AC quick connect fittings--the quickest route for CFC's into the
environment. Ford had it in for stratospheric ozone.
8. Cheap lug nuts for alloys--carbon steel lug nut with a decorative press
fit cap. The first time Gomer at the garage hits it with an impact, the
cap is mangled and pops off, and the single size tire wrench no longer fits
the lug nut. DUH! They probably saved 5 cents per lug nut this way
though...
9. Power window motor gears--plastic that shatters after a couple of
years, Ford saved another 5 cents per door on this design. 100% failure
rate before 100,000 miles is unacceptable.
10. Power door lock actuators--not sure what the cause is, but 100%
failure rate before 100,000 miles is unacceptable.
11. Alternator and wiring--Another part that failed before 100,000. When
the alternator is replaced you have to replace part of the electrical
harness and resolder to eliminate a known fire hazard.
12. Rear brake problem mentioned by other posters
13. Front caliper rail sticking problem

Aaaaah, I feel much better now. I've certainly paid for the right to gripe
about the design of this truck.

Shawn Clark
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 11:55:47 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 92 F-150 Oil pan gasket leaking

Nope, it has nothing to do w/suspension. It's exhaust and frame cross member that
you have to clear.

Bob


Blake Malkamaki wrote:

> >you cant take the oil pan all the way out unless you raise the engine with a
> >lift. i ended up snakin the gasket through...MAKE SURE you dont over tighten
> >the bolts or it will spit the gasket out and break the seal and you will have
> >to start over again. it took me about 3 hours once i got on the right
> >track...
>
> Can you get the pan off if you have a 4" lift kit without jacking the
> engine up?
>
> Blake
> Little Mountain
> Concord, Ohio
> Early Oil Well Historian
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
> Web site design http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hitechdesign.com
> Desktop Publishing service
> "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
>
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 12:06:47 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Lockup "off" switch

You are tracking, the point being, big block OD, small block OD. Both with
Electronic Lock-up capability.

Bob



Christopher Ferino wrote:

> > I know that a few of you have figured out a way to wire up a switch to
> > control the lockup function of the E4OD trannies. I am wondering if there is
> > a way to do that on the AODE/4R70W style. Being as they are the predecessor
> > of the E4OD, are the wiring harnesses and the color codes for the wires the
> > same?
>
> I don't know the answer to Wayne's question, but his note prompts another
> question - I thought the E4OD was the next generation of the C6, and the
> AODE was the next generation of the AOD - is that not the case?
>
> --c
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 16:06:29 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:Brakes

>Joe,
>have you checked for vacuum leaks in the line to the power booster from
the
>upper manifold? It may be your booster that has gone, not the master
cylinder.
>later
>Wayne Foy

Wayne,
In my experience, a bad booster is a hard peddle, not soft.
As for Joe's problem, I'm at a loss, but depending on where
the "new" master cylinder came from, well I've had trouble
with several different rebuilt things in the past. Could be
something to think about!

I don't EVEN think I know it all!!!!

Dave H.

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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 14:36:16 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Early '90's design flaws

Hmmm....lets see:

>1. Paint--anyone with a black or gray truck still have any?

Or dark blue, mine has actually held up pretty weel, but the paint scratches
and rubs away very easy on the trail.

>4. Exhaust header on 302--poor mechanical design causes it to crack at
>rear cylinder on passenger side because of cantilever, flexibility issues
>and amount of weight hanging/vibrating off of it.

Just noticed mine is cracked there today. >8^(

>10. Power door lock actuators--not sure what the cause is, but 100%
>failure rate before 100,000 miles is unacceptable.

My pass. side doesn't work on hot days.


>Aaaaah, I feel much better now. I've certainly paid for the right to gripe
>about the design of this truck.

I hear you there

Rade


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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 15:25:54 -0700
From: "Mike Mueller"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Fuel Pressure Regulator Testing

Mark-
Yes, it's very easy. If you have a pressure gauge there is a valve right on
top of the fuel rail. You can get an official "fuel pressure gauge from
your "flaps" or use any gauge that screws on.

> Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 09:45:15 -0700
> From: "Mark Behling"
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Pressure Regulator Testing

> I'm wondering if this something you could do yourself? Anybody know how to do
this
> procedure and how much it would cost for the tool? I'm having a bit of an
> idle surge
> also, but don't want to go to the $$$$$.
>
> Mark
> '96 F150 I6 5spd


Thanks!
Mike Mueller
The Leasing Dept.
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 15:50:43 PDT
From: barry mitchell
Subject: FTE 80-96 - voltage regulator

Has anyone had a faulty regulator cause an engine to die just like you had
shut the engine off?

Thanks
Barry


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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 20:14:15 EDT
From: DENKC5 ....


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