80-96-list-digest Thursday, January 21 1999 Volume 03 : Number 016



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Heater Problem
FTE 80-96 - E4OD lockup
Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150
Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Window Slips
FTE 80-96 - Thanks for all the Help!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Thanks for all the Help!
FTE 80-96 - transfer case
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Pigeon Forge show
FTE 80-96 - Advice on search for high mileage used truck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Thud in the hub?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Advice on search for high mileage used truck
FTE 80-96 - RE: Horsepower Ratings
Re: FTE 80-96 - Advice on search for high mileage used truck
FTE 80-96 - '85 Bronco
Re: FTE 80-96 - '85 Bronco
FTE 80-96 - Radius arm brackets...not a new thread.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm brackets...not a new thread.
FTE 80-96 - Thanks to all for the help
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm brackets...not a new thread.
Re: FTE 80-96 - '85 Bronco
FTE 80-96 - E4OD TC lock-up
FTE 80-96 - F-100 Front end problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - '85 Bronco
Re: FTE 80-96 - F-100 Front end problems

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 06:39:03 -0600
From: Bill Sample
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Heater Problem

Greetings,
Having trouble getting air out of anything but the dash vents on my 86
250 Diesel. I have a diagram
of the 87 model heater and assumed they were the same, and that i had
one of the vacuum motors
not working. They both appear to be working like they should. The
temperature slide works off
cable and is moving the control valve, one vacuum pod opens the heater
core plenum to allow air
from the heater box into the air distrubution ducts, another vacuum
motor appears to direct air to the
defroster- it operates when vacuum is applied and the actuating moves
also, but I cannot determine
if the door actually moves or not- there is no change in the air
movement. My assumption is that the
door has come off or has become obstructed. Now finally to my
question.... is there another
vacuum motor that I have missed? Anyone run into similar problems?
When I started ripping the
dash apart I expected to find a vacuum hose disconnected or a motor out-
I do not look forward to
the idea of taking all of it apart- but desperatly need floor heat and
defrost. Any help would be
appreciated!
Cheers- Bill

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 14:01:45 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnar?= Huse"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E4OD lockup

My 1990 E-250 7.3, 3,43 rear, E4OD seems not to lock up when cruising at
fixed speeds. I can be doing 45-50 mph at over 2200 rpm, as soon as I
ease the accelerator down the rpms drop to "where it should be" and I
can feel the transfer case is locked up.
Is this my TPS being a tad off, and if so, can I loosen the linkage from
the diesel pump to the TPS and crank it up a little? (65000 miles, trans
oil cooler, OK looking and smelling oil, very little driving while
loaded or trailer pulling).
(Btw, I find Mobil and Kendall Dexron III / Mercon oil at USD 7 a quart,
is that OK? Valvoline is around USD 13 a quart!... Diesel is 3.8 SD/gal,
though...)

Later,
Bjornar
- --
Bjornar Huse
Aalesund, Norway
1 1990 Ford E-250 Club Wagon 7.3 diesel, 3.54, E4OD
1 1994 Ford Escort 1.3
1 1986 Ford Escort 1.6 Wagon
Oh, yes, one 1971 wife, too!
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 07:40:54 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F-150

Scottie Schmidt wrote:

> Hi,
>
> My grandfather has finally said he definitly wants a f150 for the
> farm. I said "Ok, but you are going to have to get a mighty good one!!"

Okay,

Engine-
Here are my reasons for suggesting the 300 I-6. First and foremeost
your grandfather doesn't have a need to go 90 mph. You said he
would only once in a while be hauling. The 300 would be much better
around the farm for mud work cause of the low-end torque ecspecially
with 4wd. Maintence on a 300 is easy. And fuel economy should
be better that the alternative engines. Like I said, he won't be
beating his neighbor off the line, but then again the tortous won
the race. :-)

Hubs-
Okay for reliablility I suggest manual hubs. Unless he really has
something against getting out and turning a hub. And if he is runinng
a farm then I think he would be willing to go with the manuals.
I am not saying all autohubs are bad, but just ask this list how
many with manual vs Auto hubs. Also how many with auto
changed to manual hubs. The data is here.

Tires-
I suggest BFG All Terrain. They have a little lug to them
yet will be quiet on the road. Atleast I know my BFG Mud Terrains
are quiet which should be a noisier tire.

Well I guess thats all I can offer at this time.
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-)
:-))


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 07:52:11 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Window Slips

GTH wrote:

> before you buy the new motor check with Auto Zone (they have the
> replacement nylon gears)
>
> G Hester

Tom,
Yes, Chris is correctamoondo. I know they have the nylon
gear kit($25.00) and tailgatemotor($57.00)for my tailgate in
the bronco, therefore yours should be close to the same price.
Check with them, but if its slipping I will put almost my whole
worthless life its the nylon gear. :-) I replaced my tailgate one
over christmas week.
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:29:41 -0600
From: Roger Lane
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Thanks for all the Help!

I had been having some problems with the idle on my 84 F150.
It has the 300 I6 w/ Carb. The problem was not very serious, just annoying.
About half the time I coasted to a stop and pushed in the clutch, the truck
would idle down and die.
I had asked my uncle (who has had his own autoshop for about 20 years) what
the problem could be. He told me that those 300 I6 were notorious for the
exhaust manifolds developing cracks, and that it was probably sucking
exhaust gases into the carb.
I would like to thank Wayne for posting the web info on the EECIV engine
codes, with out those codes I would never have figured out the problem.
It turned out to be a bad TPS. I pulled the codes and got an error code of
63 (TPS signal low). So I unplugged the TPS and tested it, it was DEAD. I
had resistance across two of the leads and Zero on the other, with no change
to resistance when the throttle was moved.
Replaced the TPS (got from local autoparts store for about $30), now my
truck idles perfect.
Once again thanks to Wayne and everyone else who has posted info on
diagnosing engine codes.

PS. I found a voltage tester at Radio Shak that was made to test 12V
batteries and alternators. It work very well for reading the engine codes
also. I don't remember the part number but the price was only 6 bucks!

Roger Lane
Test/Support Analyst
(402)241-3570
Roger.Lane IBPINC.COM

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 09:41:12 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Thanks for all the Help!

In a message dated 1/20/99 9:36:41 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Roger.Lane IBPINC.com writes:


diagnosing engine codes.
>>
Roger,
No problem at all. I look at it this way, what comes around goes around. I may
need the help someday.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside Supercab
Wayne's Flareside Page
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 07:10:59 PST
From: "jake Miller"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - transfer case

Hey all,
I was wondering if anyone could tell me if a a larger cast iron
transfer case would replace the aluminum type without to much trouble.
Would the drive shafts need to be modified or anything?

Jake Miller
81 F-150
97 Cobra

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 17:04:55 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Pigeon Forge show

Fellow FTEs:

Ford Truck Enthusiasts plans to attend the 21st annual F100
Supernationals in Pigeon Forge, Tennesee this year. Don't
let the name fool you, this show features not only older
F100s but also new trucks too (last year was the first year
for new trucks). Over 800 Ford trucks were featured. This is
the largest Ford truck show in the country and its a blast.

Last year we had 30 list members attend the show. We have
more than twice as many list members this year and hope to
have 100 in attendance. If you're interested in going, send
an email to me (kpayne ford-trucks.com) and I'll add you to the
email list.

We're working on a group discount for the hotel and a
Saturday breakfast. We're hoping to have a pavillion at the
local park too. Peggy is getting in contact with the promoter
to get a booth.

We're going to have a bulleting board featuring several list
member trucks. This is a good way to show your truck if you
can drive it there. If you want your truck featured, whether
or not you attend the show, send a picture to:

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Attn: PF Show Photo
PO Box 422
Lilburn, GA 30048

Include a detailed description of the truck.

The show dates are Thursday, May 13th until Sunday, May 16th.
Many vendors are there as early as Monday. We plan to be there
starting Wednesday.

Last year was great and helped to solidify many friendships
amoung list members. We hope to see you there!

Sincerely,
Ken Payne
Admin

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Date: 20 Jan 1999 11:07:39 -0500
From: Andrew Krein
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Advice on search for high mileage used truck

I'm still looking for a used truck. Thank you to those who responded
to my last post. I'm looking for a F150, long bed, regular cab, v-8,
4x4, automatic trans. It seems that everything on the used car lots
and in the ads in the paper for trucks in my price range, under
$10,000, has very high mileage. Almost everything I've seen has at
least 130,000 miles on it. This is in the Kansas City area. I've got
a lead on one truck that is in my price range, but has 170k miles on
it with a completely rebuilt 351 v-8. Supposedly about 20k miles on
the rebuild. It is supposed to be a complete upper and lower rebuild.
Could someone please explain what is meant by "complete upper and
lower rebuild"? Also, which would be better, a rebuilt engine or an
original engine with high miles? Does a rebuild imply problems or
that the truck was abused? Any help and advice would be appreciated.
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:11:27 -0500
From: Doug Tinsman
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Thud in the hub?

Check the steering U joint for wear.

Jeremy Taylor wrote:

> I have a 1988 F-250HD with a 460, C-6, 4.10 gears, etc. With the snow
> recently, i've got much use out of the 4wd. But now the driver's side
> hub has developed an intermittent "thump" that increases with speed.
> This happens in both the lock and unlock position. The hubs have never
> been replaced so i started there first, but when i took the original hub
> off, i noticed that the entire axle assembly has some play. Would
> bearings cause this type of noise? Tell me i haven't ruined an
> expensive part, like the axle shaft!
>
> Thanx- Jeremy
>
> ______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 13:15:31 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Advice on search for high mileage used truck

Andrew,
Well it could or could not mean the truck was abused. A complete upper and
lower rebuild to me means:
Upper: New valves, new springs, new seats, possibly new heads, all upper
gaskets and seals.
Lower: New pistons, new rods, new crankshaft, new oil pump, all new bearings,
and of course all the related seals.
I personally would want to see the receipts for all these parts or for what he
actually paid for and had done to it. I would also try to speak to the
mechanic who did the work. And if you still have any doubts after that, take
it to a "CERTIFIED" tech to check it out for you. Make sure they run
compression checks, vacuum checks, etc., and make sure that the truck is good.
It may cost you a few bucks to have this done, but wouldn't you rather pay $50
and it be good, than $10,000 and it be bad?
I know I'll probably start a flame war over my definitions of upper and lower
rebuilds, but then again opinions are what make this list great.
Also just so you know, I just recently replaced my heads, cam, lifters and
such. When I told my friend who is a Service Manager for a local Ford dealer
what I did he said "Oh an upper rebuild." So that's why I said ask for PROOF
of the work being done.




In a message dated 1/20/99 11:18:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Andrew.Krein noaa.gov writes:


to my last post. I'm looking for a F150, long bed, regular cab, v-8,
4x4, automatic trans. It seems that everything on the used car lots
and in the ads in the paper for trucks in my price range, under
$10,000, has very high mileage. Almost everything I've seen has at
least 130,000 miles on it. This is in the Kansas City area. I've got
a lead on one truck that is in my price range, but has 170k miles on
it with a completely rebuilt 351 v-8. Supposedly about 20k miles on
the rebuild. It is supposed to be a complete upper and lower rebuild.
Could someone please explain what is meant by "complete upper and
lower rebuild"? Also, which would be better, a rebuilt engine or an
original engine with high miles? Does a rebuild imply problems or
that the truck was abused? Any help and advice would be appreciated. >>
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 13:40:55 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Horsepower Ratings

Lightning Chris posted:

>>High Altitude 4.9L make 10 more hp(160) than the other 300s!

So, what's the difference between the normal and high-altitude versions?
Sounds like a potential upgrade: us Six guys could use an extra 10
ponies...

lordjanusz juno.com
94 F150 300ci

HAMMER (n): Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays
is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from
the object we are trying to hit.

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 13:41:29 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Advice on search for high mileage used truck

FLR150 aol.com wrote:

> Andrew,
> Well it could or could not mean the truck was abused. A complete upper and

This is true. There are commuters that have to drive 1 to 2 hours
each way. Which ofcourse the miles rack up fast. Much better to
have a high mileage truck with highway miles than one thats been
in stop-n-go traffic most of its life. So if you go the rout of a
high mileage vehicle try and keep it to hwy mileage.


> lower rebuild to me means:
> Upper: New valves, new springs, new seats, possibly new heads, all upper
> gaskets and seals.

I personally would also include a waterpump.

> it to a "CERTIFIED" tech to check it out for you. Make sure they run
> compression checks, vacuum checks, etc., and make sure that the truck is good.
> It may cost you a few bucks to have this done, but wouldn't you rather pay $50
> and it be good, than $10,000 and it be bad?

Thats pretty sound advise. They should gladly give you all theinfo you need if
they want to sell the truck.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:23:25 -0800
From: spencer stromberglaw.com (Spencer)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '85 Bronco

Thanks for the responses I got about my '85 Bronco's gearing. Rick Wojo
asked what rear end I have - 8.8" or 9". I don't know - how do I find out?
I looked through my owner's manual and discovered that the truck's gear
ratio is 3.50, but no indication of which rear end. Help.

Spencer Stromberg
Spokane, WA
'85 EB Bronco, 351, 3spd AT

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 14:13:49 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '85 Bronco

Spencer wrote:

> Thanks for the responses I got about my '85 Bronco's gearing. Rick Wojo
> asked what rear end I have - 8.8" or 9". I don't know - how do I find out?

Spence, Go behind your truck, and look at the rear of the differential.
If you have between 10-12 bolts holding a plate keeping a plate
in place then you have the 8.8". If there is no bolt pattern then
you have a 9"
You can also double check the ratio. Jack up the rear end and
put it in a gear.With the engine off ofcourse. :-) Mark the rear
driveshaft on both sides of the yoke. Then rotate your rear
wheel on revolution. You gear ratio will be the amount of time
the driveshaft turns past the stationary mark you made. So your
driveshaft should turn 3 1/2 times to one revolution of the rear
tire.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:44:20 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm brackets...not a new thread.

Hey Rick,

When you drilled out the radius arm bracket rivets and replaced them
with bolts, what length, diameter, and gauge bolts did you end up using?
Since I haven't heard any rants from you so far, I figure whatever you used
must be working out pretty good. I'd rather use what works than make my own
mistakes when it comes to something like this.

- -Mike


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:19:16 -0600
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm brackets...not a new thread.

Michael J. Pasznik, Jr. wrote:

> Hey Rick,
>
> When you drilled out the radius arm bracket rivets and replaced them
> with bolts, what length, diameter, and gauge bolts did you end up using?
> Since I haven't heard any rants from you so far, I figure whatever you used
> must be working out pretty good. I'd rather use what works than make my own
> mistakes when it comes to something like this

No rant'n and raving here. :-)
What I done was took the existing bolt with me to the fastener
supply company. I had 3 rivets and one bolt on each side which
you probably have too. So's I matched the length with that
one. As far as the diameter, I think it was 9/16 thread. I just
made sure the new bolts fit in the holes clearance wise like
that of the existing bolt. The hardness I used was grade 5.
Roughly speaking I think the length was around 2 1/2 inches.
Also, the diameter of the new bolts are different than the existing
bolt. The existing bolt was a metric. Also I started the drilling
with about a 1/4" drill bit to get the hole started good then used
a 1/2" drill bit to finish it up and whack it off. And make sure you
use sharp carbide tipped bits if ya gott'm. Oh, you will be tempted
to have a miller between getting each rivet off, but try and hold it to
every other one. :-)

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-) :-))


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 17:16:50 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Thanks to all for the help

Thanks to steve and to the rest of the members that helped me with my
antifreeze odor, and cylinder head problem. It turned out that the head was
cracked in 2 places and the coolant was escaping thru the exhaust ( white
smoke) but no coolant in the oil.
I have an 89 E-250 Van with a 300-6cyl, and 181k on it. I worked 5 long days
on it , body busted up and aching, but it was worth it.
1. New head & gasket kit
2. Rear main seal
3. New oil pump & oil pan gasket
4. New steering box & hoses
5. transmission oil & filter change
6. Driveshaft serviced
7. New fuel injector O rings (#%$ ) leaking
8. Distributor shaft gasket, spark plugs & more
Everything else has been replaced, But my Ford Truck is like new again, and I
DID
IT MYSELF.
Thanks again fellas,
Joe
www.Flashwax.com
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 17:53:19 -0500
From: "Michael J. Pasznik, Jr."
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm brackets...not a new thread.

...As if I needed another excuse! ;-)

- -Mike

PS. It's good to see there's some progress being made on that import of
yours!

- -------------
Oh, you will be tempted to have a miller between getting each rivet off, but
try and hold it to
every other one. :-)
- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15-Mud Terrains
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale or back to the leasing dealer in March :-)
:-))


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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 18:52:00 -0500
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '85 Bronco

If it's a 3.50 ratio; it's a 9".

Matt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Spencer
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: January 20, 1999 2:34 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '85 Bronco


>Thanks for the responses I got about my '85 Bronco's gearing. Rick Wojo
>asked what rear end I have - 8.8" or 9". I don't know - how do I find out?
>I looked through my owner's manual and discovered that the truck's gear
>ratio is 3.50, but no indication of which rear end. Help.
>
>Spencer Stromberg
>Spokane, WA
>'85 EB Bronco, 351, 3spd AT
>
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 17:40:33 -0800
From: Dana Bartholomew
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E4OD TC lock-up

Hi everyone. I got some information today that may be useful to other
listers so I'm passing it on.

I talked to ATO performance transmission today in regard to my E4OD and
it's early TC lock-up situation. They have done extensive testing and
upgrades to the E4OD and I wanted their input on my concerns.
Apparently this is a concern for many E4OD owners and he had a
suggestion to try. This will probably only work on 1993 and older
trucks. The newer computers will have a problem with this modification
and it will not work. I have not tried it yet but plan to do it
tonight. What he recommends is to find the purple wire with a yellow
stripe coming from the computer, it passes near the brake pedal. This
wire is the ground connection for the TC lock-up selenoid. You can put
a rocker switch inline and have the ability to enable or disable the TC
lock-up. He recommends disabling in town and then enable while in
highway mode. Similar to overdrive. If you can disable the TC and
drive the truck for 10-20 minutes without a check engine or OD light
blinking you're golden. If you get a light then the computer is a bit
too smart and it will not work. On the post '93 models the computer
senses speed, engine rpm, throttle position and if it sees the TC not
locked up it may give you a problem. On '93 and earlier the computer
doesn't care and you can use the TC lock-up the way you'd like.

I'll post when I do it, where exactly the wire is, whether or not I get
a flashing OD light and how it affects the performance.

Dana B
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:49:30 EST
From: Dmcomp aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F-100 Front end problems

Hello all,

I have an '83 F-100 w/ an I-6 that has a very loose front suspension and need
some advice. What am I looking to replace here, besides tie rods? Is it
recommended to have a shop do all the replacement of the various bushings or
could this be DIY project. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


Dennis
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:50:55 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
....


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