80-96-list-digest Saturday, June 5 1999 Volume 03 : Number 157



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - ? about thermostats and temps
FTE 80-96 - Rough and high idle
FTE 80-96 - solid front axle, what year?
FTE 80-96 - 94 Explorer 4wd not disengaging!
[none]
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough and high idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough and high idle

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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 09:08:53 -600
From: nomo webzone.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ? about thermostats and temps

>The pinging would not be caused by the engine cooling system running hot.
>It is either the spark set too early or firing too early, or it is a hot
>spot in the combustin chamber- probably a piece of glowing carbon or a bad

>spark plug with cracked porcelane.
>
>Water temperature should not have anything to do with it unless it is
>running way over boiling.
>>>>>>>>>

Actually, several chip manufacturers either require or recommend a low temp
thermostat. I assume it is because they advance the timing so much that every
degree matters. If you really want a chip that helps, get a Superchip- NOT
an ADS "super chip"- but one from the Superchips company (www.superchips.com).
It doesn't require a different thermostat and will improve performance throughout
the entire RPM range- not just WOT. Both my '97 Expedition and my '93 F150
have one installed. Outside temps here range from single-digit to triple-digit.
Never a ping or problem. You do have to run 91+ octane fuel though.

No, I don't sell them. I'm just a VERY happy customer. Check out the "computer
chips" message board at www.f150 online. com and see what other have to say as
well.

Neal
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 09:16:38 -0500
From: Andy Norris
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rough and high idle

My 89 F250 351 is idling somewhere around 1500 rpm. Sometimes when I shift
into neutral or park it rockets to nearly 3000 rpm! It puts strain on the
brakes when stopping from highway speeds, and I don't want to shift to
neutral for fear of how high the idle might go. After starting cold, it
will sound like it's trying not to die, going from about 500 to 1700 rpm.

It's also got what sounds to me to be a hole in the catalytic converter,
and I was wondering if this might have something to do with it...
compression and whatnot.

I have no experience with Ford trucks or engines of this size except for
this past month since I bought this specimen. I'm determined to convince
myself that I didn't make a mistake. I have a list of things to fix on it,
and it seems like the truck is bound and determined to make me revise this
list at every turn.

Can any armchair mechanics help to trouble shoot this, or am I woefully
short on details? I know I need to take it somewhere, but I don't want to
take it to a general repairs place where they call every half hour letting
you know what else you need to replace.

Thanks in advance,

Andy Norris
mailto:anorris allenpress.com

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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 10:40:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - solid front axle, what year?

I found an old F250 yesterday, but the front axle didn't look like it
would swap into mine. The steering linkage was outbound of the frame,
and at each end of the axle, it had a big ball fitting (don't know what
it is. What year did ford go to putting open spindles on the solid
front axle? Or does anybody else out there know which years are fairly
straight forward to swap out with a dana 44 TTB? My friend is getting
rid of a 76 F-250, it runs ok, but if I can snag it, I will part it
out. As far as I can tell, the swap would go ok. What about the front
leafs? Would I need to get rid of the inverse arch and get some normal
arch springs?

Thanks!!
===
"That's the whole problem with science. You've got a bunch of empiricists trying to describe things of unimaginable wonder." - Calvin (& Hobbes)

Casey Vandor
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/CaseyV/
83 F-250 4x4
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 11:07:52 -0700
From: "Aaron Collier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 94 Explorer 4wd not disengaging!

When I engage the 4wd, after disengaging, the truck still feels like it
is in 4wd. But if I shut it down completely, then start back up it feels
fine.

Anybody have the problem or have suggestions?

Thanks.

Aaron
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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 13:04:16 -0700
From: "David W"
Subject: [none]

The original question was posted about a week ago, a gentleman
was having trouble with his rear end and wanted to know about
switching to a rear end without ABS vs. $500 rebuild.

Someone said:

#If your 88 has only anti-lock rear brakes I think you will like it better
#without them working.
#
#I believe all that will happen is your dash light will remain on. That can
#be fixed by either removing the bulb or replacing it with a burned out one.

If you have ever driven a vehicle with and without ABS, you would NOT
EVER want a truck without REAR ABS. I carry a slide-in camper most
of the time so my rear ABS is not as big an issue. But if you do not have
a lot of pounds in the bed all the time (like, say TWO THOUSAND or so)
then you will be hating life big time if you need those brakes in a turn or
on
a slick surface, because any pedal pressure high enough to slow you down
quick with the front tires is going to be sending the rear into a lockup.
Trust
me.

I would love it if I had 4 wheel ABS. You dont ever need to worry about
pumping the pedal, or locking up. Something bad happens you just STOMP
on that bad boy for all you can push and let the computer pump the pedal
faster than any human ever could. Its a godsend in ice or snow too!

- ----------------------------------------------------------------

There was another person who was having a "clicking" noise at moderate
acceleration. I had the same problem and it DID turn out to be the
u-joints.
If your U joints have lots of miles on them, or some hard use towing or
hauling, replacing them is fast, easy and cheap. Do yours have a "zerk"
(spelling?) fitting? If so, grease them and see if it helps. Also Try
this:
put your truck in four wheel drive and see if it goes away. Mine did.
It seems the front tires pulling took enough load off the u-joints to make
them shut up. I did not know this at the time, not until one u-joint died
a horrible, crunching death a few weeks later.

Note, dont KEEP it on 4x4, just use it to test it out. Good luck!

- -David

- --------------------------------------
ICQ 34213738
Opinions are my own and not those of Intel corporation.

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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 18:49:39 -0500
From: Keith
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough and high idle

Andy Norris wrote:
My 89 F250 351 is idling somewhere around 1500 rpm. Sometimes when I shift
into neutral or park it rockets to nearly 3000 rpm! It puts strain on the
brakes when stopping from highway speeds, and I don't want to shift to
neutral for fear of how high the idle might go. After starting cold, it
will sound like it's trying not to die, going from about 500 to 1700 rpm.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My 86 F150 302 is doing the same thing. Tonight or tomorrow morning I am
going to replace the throttle position sensor ($30). It reads 2.2v at no
throttle to 5v at full throttle when I moved the throttle cable by hand
key on engine off - should be ~.2v & 5v. Hope I don't have to pull the
throttle body to get to the dang thing! I'll post if it fixes the problem
or not. Keith Smith
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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 20:42:41 -0400
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rough and high idle

Check for a swallowed gasket in between the upper and lower halves of
the intake manifold. This is fairly common, results in a major vacuum
leak, and will cause exactly what you describe. It is not a big deal to
replace it.

An easy way to check it is to squirt carburetor cleaner all along the
joint with the engine idling. If it finds a leak, the engine speed will
change.

Steve S.

Andy Norris wrote:
>
> My 89 F250 351 is idling somewhere around 1500 rpm. Sometimes when I shift
> into neutral or park it rockets to nearly 3000 rpm! It puts strain on the
> brakes when stopping from highway speeds, and I don't want to shift to
> neutral for fear of how high the idle might go. After starting cold, it
> will sound like it's trying not to die, going from about 500 to 1700 rpm.
>
> It's also got what sounds to me to be a hole in the catalytic converter,
> and I was wondering if this might have something to do with it...
> compression and whatnot.
>
> I have no experience with Ford trucks or engines of this size except for
> this past month since I bought this specimen. I'm determined to convince
> myself that I didn't make a mistake. I have a list of things to fix on it,
> and it seems like the truck is bound and determined to make me revise this
> list at every turn.
>
> Can any armchair mechanics help to trouble shoot this, or am I woefully
> short on details? I know I need to take it somewhere, but I don't want to
> take it to a general repairs place where they call every half hour letting
> you know what else you need to replace.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Andy Norris
> mailto:anorris allenpress.com
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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